Cycling a wooden floor: stages of work on restoring parquet. How to sand a floor without a sanding machine. Do-it-yourself scraping of a wooden floor - a step-by-step description of the work process How you can scrape a wooden floor
Remember, in childhood - barefoot in the warm plank floor at grandma's house? A feeling of comfort and security. And also, the nice touch of smooth boards.
Advantage wood covering ahead of others in the possibility of giving it smoothness and newness by scraping off the top aged layer, which cannot be done with either a modern parquet board or laminate.
Renewal work is carried out using special equipment or tools using abrasive materials. This cleaning, carried out for plank flooring (solid wood), parquet, is called scraping.
During the process, a thin layer of top wood, remnants of old paint, and unevenness are removed, and the material takes on a new look.
Wooden floors need to be sanded once every 6-7 years.
In the past, scraping a wooden floor was done manually using a metal or glass plate (scrapers) sharpened to 90 degrees.
It’s hard to imagine such work now, especially in large rooms. But this method is sometimes used in small, hard-to-reach areas.
Tools and materials
The second scraping method is mechanical. The following equipment is used:
- drum sander for smooth surfaces;
- for hard-to-reach areas - a scraper for curbs (you can use an angle grinder);
- surface grinder for fine sanding;
- construction vacuum cleaner;
- screwdriver;
- drill at low speed and a wire attachment to remove paint residue.
The materials are of a basic and auxiliary nature: a set of different caliber sandpaper (sizes P40, P60, P80), PVC film for insulating the room being treated, tape, and for finishing - varnish or paint.
Video - scraping a pine wooden floor:
Is it possible to scrape the floor with your own hands?
You can invite craftsmen and they will be happy to update the floor. The cost of services is from 450 rubles. for 1 sq.m. What if the budget is limited? Or is it about small house on summer cottage? Then it makes sense to scrape the wooden floor yourself.
The equipment used in the process is expensive and does not require permanent availability in the house, so it is better to rent it.
Preparatory work
To carry out the work, prepare the room: completely remove the furniture, carefully dismantle the baseboards and lamps to avoid clogging with fine dust. Entrance door dismantled, and the opening is covered with PVC film, securing it with tape. Opening the windows allows for ventilation.
Next, the condition of the coating is determined. For a plank floor, you need to walk in a transverse direction. If there is looseness, it must be eliminated. If there are significant gaps, planks are inserted between the boards with glue suitable size– they will then be leveled.
Chips and cracks are repaired with putty. For parquet floors, the presence of slack in the blocks is determined by light tapping rubber mallet, it also needs to be eliminated.
The decking fasteners are inspected: nails and self-tapping screws must sit deep to avoid getting under the equipment. Old staining is removed. If it was oil paint/enamel, you can get rid of it in two ways:
- chemical - using suitable removers (solvents), they are presented in a wide range;
- mechanical - using a nozzle with wire bristles and a drill with a low number of revolutions or a grinding and grinding machine.
For parquet, mineral alcohol and gentle mechanical method cleaning After the preparatory work, the room is ventilated, and dry debris is removed with a construction vacuum cleaner. When using wet methods To remove staining, the wood must dry for 1-2 days.
The main work on sanding a wooden floor with your own hands is done with a drum sander and coarse-grained abrasive sandpaper (P40). The process starts from the corner of the room and is carried out diagonally across the room, moving back and forth in paths. You need to make sure that each subsequent “track” overlaps with the previous one.
After going through several strips, check the condition of the sandpaper and change it. Having carried out the scraping of the room in one diagonal direction, it is repeated, but in the transverse direction.
Next, sanding is carried out with a medium-grained abrasive, moving along the room. The final stage– scraping with fine-grained sandpaper, also moving in parallel. You can use a surface grinder.
The scope of work is determined by the condition of the wooden covering. If it is relatively new, you can get by with sanding only medium- and fine-grained abrasives.
Curled boards - scraping features
If you have them, they are probably pine. Pine and spruce are soft woods, and the boards made from them are called twisted.
An important rule is to never scrape across the pile. Such a defect is difficult to eliminate.
The scraping of twisted boards is carried out in a diagonal direction with a coarse-grained abrasive, and one path is passed 2-3 times. Having finished in one direction, it is repeated in the transverse direction, also moving diagonally.
After this, change the sandpaper to a medium-grain one and run parallel along each board. Finish the work with a fine-grained nozzle.
Work in hard-to-reach places
Sanding in hard-to-reach places, for example near the walls of premises, is carried out with a scraping machine for borders (“boot”).
The process begins with the use of medium-grained abrasive and ends with fine-grained sandpaper. The machine has small sizes, thanks to which it is possible to carry out work in the corners of rooms, near walls, under heating registers.
This operation can be carried out using an angle grinder, changing the grain size of the abrasive attachments.
Final actions
Despite the fact that all modern grinders are equipped with reservoirs for collecting debris, after finishing work it is recommended to clean the floor with a construction vacuum cleaner. If necessary, the dust removal operation is repeated the next day.
If there are cracks, they are sealed with a putty solution, mixing in the remains of sawdust from sanding - this way you can maintain the uniform color of the wood. The surface is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper.
After this, the floors are varnished. The next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is not recommended to apply more than three layers. The boardwalk can be painted and oil paint(enamel), choosing the color in accordance with the interior.
Self-protection measures
To conclude this article, here are a few precautions:
- The scraping process is noisy, so it is necessary to protect your eardrums (using earplugs or construction headphones);
- you should protect your respiratory system from dust, the smell of removers and varnish using a respirator;
- a drum grinder operates like a lawn mower, so you need to make sure that clothes, hair, as well as the cord from the machine and extension cords do not accidentally get into the operating equipment;
- do not leave the machine turned on unattended, since defects on the floor from its “free” movement will be difficult to eliminate.
That's the whole list simple work– scraping of the wooden floor with your own hands was done.
Video - the process of sanding and restoration of an old wooden floor:
Scraping is leveling using scraping. This action is performed either manually or using a special machine called a scraper. The name comes from hand tools, which used to be used to level floors - “scrape”. However, even now you can meet a person who would decide to do this type of repair manually.
Sanding differs from grinding in that it requires more rough processing wood coating rather than sanding. Quite a large amount is cut from the floor surface upper layer material, and the minimum is no more than half a millimeter.
Nowadays, drum machines can be called truly scraping machines, with the help of which it is good to remove old varnish coatings. They are not very suitable for finer work. For other types of work, disc grinders are used.
However, the name firmly attached to such work is “scraping”.
We recommend looking at the company “Our – Parquet Private Master”, which performs parquet scraping inexpensively and efficiently in Moscow and Moscow Region without dust at reasonable prices per m2.
1.2 Preparing the room for work
To do this you need to do a few simple steps:
1.3 Inspect the floor surface
Before we do the actual scraping, let's inspect our floors.
2. Let's start scraping
A scraper (grinding) machine is expensive, so it’s better to rent one; you must first read the instructions and also get advice from professionals. The best option- carry out everything yourself preparatory work, and entrust the scraping itself to professionals - and your nerves will be in order, and much less time will be spent.
If you decide to do everything yourself, then...
2.1 Let’s start looping
- Start scraping by taking into the work room - grinder, several types of sandpaper (coarse, medium and fine-grained), carefully plug all the cracks in the door leading to the living part of the apartment. Cover your ears with earplugs, put on glasses over your eyes, and a respirator over your nose and mouth. It is also necessary to ensure an influx fresh air. However, if the machine has a dust collector, the only equipment you will need is earplugs; such machines have not yet learned to operate quietly.
Video on how to scrape a floor:
2.2. We putty cracks and other imperfections after the car
The scraping itself is almost complete. We remove all dust from the floor, ceiling and walls using a vacuum cleaner. We examine the resulting surface. It is likely that some defects still remain, for example, small gaps. We cover them with special putty on water based, we use a pistol in our work. Then remove the excess solution with a rubber spatula and let it dry. We do the same with the holes from the nail heads. After the putty has dried, you may need to go through the sanding machine again with fine-grained sandpaper.
Advice. If you want to get a light varnished floor, cover it with a thin, almost invisible layer of putty. After drying, this floor will appear lighter. After applying the varnish, it will not darken, and the structure of the wood will be clearly visible.
If you carry out the final scraping with zero, give the room a “rest” - let all the dust that is in the air settle. Next you need to carefully wet cleaning, removing dust from all surfaces and the floor. Now you can get started.
We looked at a common option for scraping a wooden floor. It is used on both old and new wood flooring.
3. Manual scraping of old parquet
Now let's look at one of the popular options - how to sand a floor covered with old, well-worn parquet. The option is valuable because these works, even performed by a professional professional equipment, will always cost less than . In addition, the old coating is very reliable, although time could not but affect it - small chips and cracks, places where the varnish has completely worn off. Let's try to bring all this back to its original form.
It is worth noting that now rarely does anyone ask the question of how to manually cycle floors. This is dictated by the fact that the machine method of performing such work is noticeably easier, faster and of better quality.
4. Machines for scraping and grinding floors (scraping equipment). Consumables
Below we will talk about parquet sanding machines. Because by sanding floors in most cases we mean sanding parquet, and not ordinary plank flooring. Although such machines can be used on it.
Why grinding and not scraping? Because this is the correct name for this type of machine. But we call them looping ones in the old fashioned way, often recalling L. Gaidai’s film “Obsession.”
4.1 Parquet sanding machines are:
Almost all modern machines for such work are equipped with dust collectors similar to vacuum cleaners. Therefore, there is much less dust during work, although you still cannot do without it.
Thus, when thinking about how to cycle floors, you need to think about one more question - how you will do this, manually or using technology. And if using technology, then which car should be preferred when renting. The purchase should be abandoned immediately. This technique is not cheap, but you only use it once, maximum twice, in your life.
4.2 Consumables
- Putty;
- Parquet varnish or paint (for regular floors);
- Stationery knife;
- or brush, rubber spatula
5. When you can and when you can’t cycle
When thinking about restoring parquet flooring and how to properly sand a floor, you need to know that not every surface can be renewed using sanding. To do this you need to know the thickness flooring material. If the parquet board has a thickness of 0.8 cm, then it can be processed manually no more than three times, if 1.5 cm, then no more than 5. If the thickness of the boards is less than 0.8 cm, such parquet cannot be sanded. The same goes for regular wooden floors.
In a word, the higher quality the coating was laid at the beginning, the large quantity It will withstand treatments.
In conclusion, I would like to say that you need to take care of your floor coverings. You should not walk on varnished parquet in stiletto heels, wash it with water, or move furniture on it. Use soft slippers on a woven basis at home, simply wiping the floor with a damp cloth, and make special pads under the furniture legs. Cover the floor regularly protective equipment to extend the life of the varnish coating. Only in this case will you be able to enjoy the result of your labor for a long time, which is called floor scraping.
Neither of existing materials cannot compare with natural wood either in quality or in visual appeal. Of course wooden house with a wooden floor is environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and as comfortable as possible, but in five years there will be no trace left of its former beauty.
And if the walls can still be somehow “brought back to life”, covered with a new layer of varnish, then what to do with the floor covering, which is subjected to heavy loads, is completely unclear. But experienced builders know a fairly simple way to return wooden floor its former beauty. We are talking about sanding a wooden floor.
The name of the process - scraping - comes from special tool cycles that for a long time removed the top layer of wood covering. A scraper is a small handle with metal plates attached to it.
Cycling was carried out until the first grinding machine was invented, which has now completely replaced the cycle.
Such a machine can be of two types:
- drum;
- disk
The use of drum machines is advisable only in cases where wooden floors are to be processed large area. The disadvantages of the machine include the unevenness of scraping, which is why even the most experienced builder will not be able to support the entire floor surface at the same level. For this reason, today such a device only removes old paint and carry out rough grinding wood.
Disc machines, unlike drum machines, do not have such disadvantages. Having appeared relatively recently, this equipment has already gained popularity thanks to the absolutely flat surface that remains after processing, without any stripes or differences. The cost of drum machines is quite high, so they are used mainly by professional and repair teams.
Note! According to the manufacturers, scraping machines are capable of restoring a wooden floor by 90%.
First, find out whether the old wooden floor can be sanded. To do this, conduct a thorough inspection. If you find that there is too much space between the boards big gap or they are damaged, first replace the defective coating elements. Only after this start working.
What will be required at work
For scraping you will need:
- scraping machine;
- screwdriver;
- curb grinding machine or hand scraper;
- abrasive sheets of varying hardness;
- polyethylene film;
- mineral alcohol (necessary for removing varnish).
Note! If you plan to scrape parquet, then the sanding machine must be a disk sander (1 or 3 disks), but, for example, for wooden boards A drum-type device is also quite suitable.
Stage one. Preparing the premises
First, remove furniture and carpets from the room. Take down framed photographs and paintings as well bookshelves It is better to protect it from dust by covering it with a large piece of film.
Dismantle interior door. Cover the opening with film, securing the edges with tape to prevent dust from penetrating into adjacent rooms. On the contrary, open the windows so that all the dust comes out.
Stage two. Preparing the floor covering
If there are minor gaps between the floorboards, then they need to be filled with filler, for example, sawdust. To remove old varnish, use mineral spirits and a scraper.
After this, wash the floor and let it dry thoroughly for 2-3 days.
After preparation, all that remains is to purchase good headphones and a respirator. When scraping, the noise level and dust generation increase significantly, so think about safety measures.
Stage three. Cycling
There is an opinion that scraping is an extremely complex and labor-intensive procedure. In reality, the hardest part is keeping the sander in position.
1. Start of the process
Start by using coarse sanding sheets. This will help remove the remnants of the old coating, remove all defects and unevenness of the material.
Note! When working, always hold the wire from the scraping device on your shoulder so as not to accidentally damage it.
Before starting the machine, tilt it slightly, then carefully lower it to the floor. You will notice the work of the tape immediately, since the device will be more difficult to hold in your hands. Move across the room, holding tightly to the handle of the device. Having reached the opposite wall, smoothly lift it and turn it 180ᵒ.
Cycle twisted boards a little differently. Move diagonally, that is, from one corner of the room to another. Do this several times, then repeat the procedure, but in the opposite direction. The smoothness of the floor will be perfect after this.
3. Sanding with medium-grit sheets
After sanding the twisted boards, replace the previous sheet with a medium-grain one. Move along the boards. Start with this if the floor surface is not too damaged.
When you have finished processing, make sure that no areas were missed. Then take a fine-grained sheet and repeat the entire procedure.
After treating the floor, all that remains is to scrape it off near the walls. A curb scraper is perfect for this; start with medium-grain sheets and end with the finest disc.
Note! A regular sanding machine will not work for this as it does not have the same precision as a border sander.
5. Shutdown
This is where the looping ends. Sweep the floor and wipe it with a dry cloth, then apply the topcoat.
Note! You cannot leave a wooden floor untreated after sanding, as it will quickly become damaged during use.
It’s worth talking about this separately important stage preparing the floor covering, such as filling cracks. Use special putty pastes for this, which can be:
- ready;
- those that need to be mixed with a special putty composition.
Note! You should not follow the advice of would-be specialists who insist that you only need to putty on cracks and other damaged areas - this will not give the desired effect.
Mix the putty thoroughly and apply it to required surface. Wait until it dries (this will take about an hour), then follow the instructions.
Note! Do not immediately arrange the furniture! Wait until the varnish is completely dry and crystallizes.
Note! Varnish coatings water-based ones have no odor, but this cannot be said about polyurethane ones, for example.
As a conclusion
It is worth noting that not in all cases a wooden floor can be restored by scraping. It is recommended to entrust the process to specialists, but the work can be done independently.
For a detailed introduction to the scraping procedure, watch the proposed thematic video material.
Give parquet a noble, well-groomed look or return painted floorboards to their original “wooden” color? All this can be easily done with scraping and grinding. Even when professionally performed, they are several times cheaper than complete replacement coatings! And if you are planning to scrape a wooden floor with your own hands, we will tell you how to do it correctly so as not to create holes on the surface. Act like master sanders and your parquet will become even and smooth!
Is it worth taking on scraping yourself?
The Internet is full of stories about floors ruined due to inept handling of a sander. If improperly sanded, pits appear on the surface and deep scratches. Usually they cannot be eliminated, and damaged parquet flooring or boards are replaced. However, you risk getting the same consequences if you hire a less than diligent craftsman.
On the other hand, there are a lot of stories about how people manage to sand the floor decently almost the first time and not spoil anything. So, if you have the desire, time and physical strength, don’t be afraid of “horror stories”. Just proceed carefully and slowly.
- Parquet board - it is too thin, and the risk of damaging the surface increases significantly.
- Expensive artistic parquets - they have many small, thin details from valuable species wood. And they are easier to damage, and the mistake will cost more.
Also be sure to consider financial side question. Many people advocate scraping themselves because they are convinced that it is cheaper. If you also want to save money, calculate everything carefully.
Thus, a daily rental of three grinding machines (drum, surface and angle grinders) can cost the same amount as professional scraping and grinding of a 20 square meter floor. m. And this does not include consumables! But if you plan to rent only a drum machine, then independent work, most likely, it will turn out cheaper than a professional one.
And a little more theory. Nowadays, when sanding, the top layer of wood is not cut off, but sanded off. Consequently, sanding is the name given to rough grinding with a coarse-grained abrasive, during which varnish, paint, large irregularities, differences in height, surface scratches, dents, etc. are removed. And sanding often refers to a finer processing, when an already cleaned, “scratched” floor is given an ideal smoothness .
Thus, there is no clear division between the concepts of grinding and scraping. In practice, you will simply sand the floors with abrasives of different grits. And as the grain size decreases, the surface of the parquet or board will become more even and smooth. And the main task of scraping-grinding is to remove a minimum layer of wood from the floor and at the same time “erase” surface defects as much as possible.
Equipment and materials
To work, you need parquet grinding machines (PSM). They are expensive to buy, but in any city such equipment is rented out. The advantage is that modern grinding machines are equipped with dust collectors, and almost all the dust will be sucked up by the machine directly during grinding. The downside is the high power consumption of the equipment. The motors of various PShMs “pull” from 1.3 to 2.8 kW during operation, and they need increased current to start. Make sure that the circuit breakers and wiring in your home can withstand such stress.
What exactly is needed for work:
- Drum PShM. Suitable for sanding, removing old varnish and eliminating large irregularities. It can also be used to sand the surface with a fine abrasive for varnishing. The result will be a “budget” option - even after three layers of varnishing, a floor sanded only with a drum machine will be a little rough.
- Surface disc grinder. Needed for fine, fine grinding. It is not necessary to use it, but then it will be mirrored smooth surface will not work. However, you still won’t be able to turn a plank floor, plywood parquet or Soviet pine herringbone parquet into a “mirror”. For such coatings, a drum machine is quite sufficient.
- Angle grinder for processing hard-to-reach areas in corners and under batteries (“boot”). You can save money on the “boot”. But then for rough grinding of difficult areas you will need a hand scraper. And fine processing will have to be done manually, with a piece of sandpaper. The dust will remain uncollected.
Attention! Do not try to replace an angle grinder with a grinder with a cup wheel. Sanding parquet while holding a heavy tool suspended is simply unrealistically difficult. Potholes in the floor are almost guaranteed. It’s better to invest in a “boot” or don’t be lazy and process the corners manually.
When renting a PShM, be sure to ask the owner for advice:
- Let them show you how to properly thread the sandpaper. For a beginner, this is one of the most difficult and important moments.
- Ask the owner about the features of this particular car. As a rule, FSMs that are rented out are very intensively used and already have their own “whims”. For example, the eccentrics that secure the sandpaper often become loose (in this case, it is enough to place a gasket under the eccentric, and the sandpaper will hold securely).
In addition to sanders, you will need:
- Sandpaper of different densities. On average, 1 m of skin standard width enough for 10 sq. m varnished or clean wooden surface. A painted floor uses approximately twice as much abrasives, since paint particles clog them faster.
- Discs for surface grinders. Approximately 3 pieces for every 20 sq. m of floor.
- Scissors.
- Powerful construction vacuum cleaner. Try to rent it together with the PShM. A household vacuum cleaner is unlikely to survive working with the smallest wood dust. And the quality of cleaning will be low, and subsequent varnishing will not give a mirror smoothness.
- Facilities personal protection– petal respirator, glasses, headphones or earplugs (the grinder squeals loudly), work clothes with tight-fitting cuffs and neck, and a hat. PShM dust collectors do not remove 100% of dust, but it is very dangerous for the respiratory system and can cause skin irritation. Plus, dust will be released when manual processing some areas of the floor. Don't risk your health.
- If there are cracks in the floor, immediately buy putty, because it is necessary to putty the parquet or board before the last sanding. For 20 sq. m of surface requires approximately 5 kg of putty mass. You also need a spatula.
- Are you going to varnish the floor after sanding? Buy 5 kg of parquet varnish for every 20 sq. m and a good microfiber roller. This tool is quite expensive, but only with it you can get an even coating.
Now about choosing the skin. Special sandpaper is produced for drum-type PShMs. It has an arrow on the back indicating the direction of filling into the drum. Always insert abrasive in the direction of the arrow.
The skin also has a grain marking, which is indicated after the letter “P”. When grinding wooden floors The following abrasives are used:
- Р24, Р36, Р40 – for rough grinding (scraping). P24 is only needed for the most uneven wooden floors and surfaces covered with several layers of paint. P36 and P40 are suitable for sanding bare or varnished plank floors, as well as varnished parquet.
- P60, P80 – for fine (finishing) grinding. At the same time, with P60 they begin work on new, unvarnished, evenly laid parquet. Coarser grinding with P36 or P40 can be skipped in this case. With P80 they “polish” the already sanded surface of parquet or boards.
- P100, P120 – for the finest finishing polishing of the floor before applying varnish or parquet oil and for interlayer sanding during varnishing.
How to choose the right sandpaper? Depends on how many sanding steps you plan:
- As a rule, a four-step treatment is used for a regular varnished floor. Take starting sandpaper P40, then intermediate sandpaper P60 and P80 and finishing sandpaper P100 or P120.
- If the floor is very flat and the old varnish layer is thin, you can do it in three stages (with P40, P80 and P100–120).
- For new, clean, smooth parquet, P60, P80 and P100–120 are suitable.
- Are you starting with P24? Then take two intermediate abrasives - P40 and P80. Thin P100 is optional if you need to bring such a crooked floor to a mirror state.
Preparation for scraping
Before starting work, both the floor itself and the entire room should be prepared. Please note that dust-free sanding does not guarantee a complete absence of dust. Some of it will still end up in the air. This is not a problem for work - in a couple of hours the smallest specks of dust will settle down, and you can completely remove them with a vacuum cleaner.
But if there are unprotected things in the room during sanding, they will accumulate a lot harmful dust. Therefore all upholstered furniture, wall hangings, clothes and various small items must either be taken out of the room or completely covered with plastic and sealed with tape.
Also close the doors to adjacent rooms tightly. It is advisable to seal the cracks in the opening masking tape. If you remove the door to sand the threshold, cover the opening with polyethylene or a wet cloth. Open the windows wide while working.
How to prepare the floor for sanding:
- Remove the baseboard. This is not necessary if the baseboard is wooden. But without it it is more convenient to sand the floor against the wall. When removing the baseboard, be careful not to tear off the parquet strips along with it.
- Assess the condition of the parquet or boards. There is no need to scrape something that is already rotten, crumbling or does not hold up well. All renovation work, replacement of unusable parquet blocks and boards is carried out in advance. Before sanding begins, each floor element must be firmly held with glue or nails. If there are loose boards in the room that provide access to communications under the floor, they should be screwed to the base with self-tapping screws.
- Vacuum the floor thoroughly.
- Check the surface for protruding nails. Drive each nail with a hammer and punch approximately 5 mm into the depth of the board. Protruding nails cause sandpaper to tear and the working elements of grinding machines deteriorate.
When everything is ready, put on glasses, a respirator, headphones and take up the sander.
Before going into the living room, practice working with the PSM on at least a piece of plywood. Modern floor sanding is safer than the “classic” cutting sanding. But even with a new sander you can make holes in the parquet. Therefore, do not give up training and start looping from an inconspicuous corner of the room.
Getting started with the parquet sanding machine:
- Before starting, tilt the unit slightly to lift the drum or disc. After starting, wait until the grinding element picks up speed, and only then smoothly lower the machine to the floor. Hold it firmly with both hands. Turn off the PShM in the reverse order. Or turn the car engine on and off while moving. If you stop the machine in one place without lifting the drum, and only then press the shutdown button, the unit will have time to eat a hole on the floor.
- As soon as you turn on the sander, immediately adjust the drum pressure on the floor (there is a special adjustment screw for this). If it is very low, the surface will not be polished well. When too high blood pressure the PShM motor will become overloaded.
During sanding:
- Always keep the machine cord on your shoulder. This way it won't get hit by the drum.
- Constantly monitor the condition of the skin. If it is torn or clogged with dust, replace it immediately.
- Regularly clean the dust collector of the PShM (collect the dust in a bag - it may be needed for puttying).
- Drive the machine evenly and continuously. Otherwise, a hole will appear at the stop or delay point.
- Strictly adhere to the recommended direction of movement of the sander on the floor.
- Do not move across the grain of the wood for very long. This can cause the parquet blocks to become chipped. Transverse sanding of plank floors is generally contraindicated. The radius of the drum or roller (for a belt machine) is comparable to the natural deflection of the board. Getting into this deflection, it can instantly eat out a real groove in the board.
Sanding and sanding wood floors
Proceed in the following order:
- Fill the drum machine with the coarsest grit abrasive (P24 or P40).
- Start sanding from the corner of the room and move the machine towards the opposite wall, diagonally towards the boards. If you have herringbone parquet, then the direction of movement will be diagonal to the tiles and parallel or perpendicular to the herringbone. Artistic parquet cycle in a circular or spiral motion from the edges to the middle of the room, mosaic - diagonally to the largest elements.
- Having reached the wall, carefully lift the car, turn it around its axis and move in reverse side. Don't stop the engine to turn around, but don't linger near the wall, so as not to make a hole. The new “track” should overlap the previous one with an overlap of 50%. Thus, in the first stage, the entire floor will be double sanded.
- When you have passed the entire room diagonally with coarse sandpaper, use an angle grinder with the same abrasive to treat the corners and hard to reach places. Smoothly move the “boot” from the edge of the treated area to the wall. After the first stage of grinding, all batten must be stripped white. There will be no paint on it, no dirty top layer of wood, no large irregularities. But the risk from the abrasive will be clearly visible. This, in fact, is where what is called scraping ends. Next they go grinding work, which will reduce the risk and make the surface smooth.
- Replace the abrasive in the grinder with a finer one (P40 or P60). Move the unit perpendicular to the previous “paths”. Your task at this stage is to remove the risk remaining from the first treatment. Don’t forget to clean the corners again with a “boot”.
- At the third stage, you need sandpaper for fine sanding (from P80 to P120). Here you can use either a drum or a surface sander. Sand the floor along the boards or parquet laying (if it is a herringbone, then the machine will move diagonally to the herringbone itself, parallel to one half of the dies and perpendicular to the other). After sanding the main area, sand the corners. Your floor is now flat and smooth.
- Remove any dust remaining after sanding with a construction vacuum cleaner.
- If necessary, putty the floor surface. To do this, use ready-made paste. desired color or mix universal base with wood dust obtained during sanding. Using a spatula, apply the putty mixture over the entire surface of the floor. If you only putty the areas with the cracks, they will differ in color and the floor will end up mottled. Wait for the putty to dry.
- Sand the floor with a fine abrasive (P80 or higher) to remove excess putty.
- Remove dust. The surface is ready for varnishing (if you do not plan to varnish the floor, protect it with other means, for example, special parquet oil).
- Apply the first coat of varnish and wait for it to dry.
- Sand the floor with P100 or P120 sandpaper. This is an interlayer sanding that will erase the raised lint.
- Remove dust from the floor, walls, ceiling. Remove and dispose of all dusty films. Pass the vacuum cleaner twice over all surfaces.
- Cover the floor with two or three more coats of varnish. Each coat must dry completely before you apply the next.
Eat Decoration Materials, the fashion for which does not pass. One of these can be considered wooden flooring- parquet or solid board. Unfortunately, during use, the floor wears out, wears down, becomes covered with scratches, cracks and stains, which forces the owner to think about restoring the parquet floor by scraping and sanding.
Structure and thickness parquet board make it possible to renew a wooden floor through sanding. After performing this procedure, the floor will restore its appearance and will again become a decoration of the room.
Parquet scraping - what is it?
Scrap the floor is a process of updating an old parquet or wooden floor, carried out in several stages, each of which involves removing the surface, damaged layer of wood. The last stage is fine grinding, which allows you to get perfect surface for coating with varnish or wax.
For each stage, its own equipment is used or, in the case of a private (independent) one, different consumables. It was the presence of several types of equipment that caused confusion in the concepts.
What is the difference between sanding and parquet sanding?
It will help to understand what the difference is short excursion into history.
Looping- this is a process whose name comes from a tool - a tsikli, with its help a thin layer of wood was manually cut off.
