How to calculate the amount of timber per house using basic mathematics? Calculation of timber for building a house Calculation of building a house from timber calculator
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If you decide to build on your backyard or summer cottage bathhouse, then the timber as the construction material will be optimal solution for a variety of reasons, which we will discuss below. But in order for the work to be carried out efficiently and quickly, it is very important to correctly calculate the timber for the bathhouse; it is this part of the process that our review will be devoted to, in which we will analyze everything important nuances on a specific example.
Why timber
Let's consider the main advantages of this material and its advantages over other options:
| Availability | In addition to the fact that timber can be purchased in almost any locality, one cannot fail to note such a factor as the affordable price. The cost of a project of this type, taking into account all expenses, will be less than other options, and you will save not only money, but also time, since the construction speed is very high |
| Simplicity | You can easily build a bathhouse with your own hands, since the configuration of the timber provides maximum convenience during work. Unlike logs, the elements weigh less, and their shape makes it possible to construct smooth walls even for those who have never performed such work |
| Reliability | Service life with proper care, consisting of periodic renewal protective coating, will be at least several decades. In addition, timber, unlike logs, has a much lower shrinkage rate, which simplifies the installation of window and door blocks, and if we are talking about the glued version, then there is no shrinkage at all |
| Attractiveness | Appearance finished design very attractive, since the natural texture of wood is ideally suited for a bathhouse, and high-quality finished elements further emphasize the beauty of the material |
Important! Among other things, it should be noted that buildings made of timber weigh less than any other option, while their heat retention indicators meet the highest standards.
Settlement process
In order to understand it in as much detail as possible, we will divide all activities into two stages and consider each of them separately.
Preparation
Calculation of timber for a timber bath begins with the following steps:
- First of all, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future structure; they can be different, from the most compact options to solutions with an attic floor and a terrace. It all depends on your personal preferences and the availability of free space on the site. Remember that there are standards for the location of the bathhouse, regulating the distance to the fence, well, bathroom and neighboring buildings; all this data can be clarified with specialists;
- Then you need to select a project that will become the main guideline in all further work . Based on the project, a drawing of a timber bathhouse is made, which is approved by the relevant authorities, only after which work can begin. Most often, this stage is entrusted to special design organizations, you present a sketch you found or made yourself, and they draw it up in accordance with the standards;
- Next, the size of the beam for the bath is determined, meaning such an indicator as the cross-section of the elements. We strongly recommend not using elements less than 150 mm wide; even this option freezes through at -29 degrees, and thinner bars will hold heat very poorly. If you want the building to be able to maintain comfortable temperature without extra costs, then it is best to use material measuring 200x200 or 150x200.
Calculations
Now let's figure out how to calculate a bathhouse made of timber. If you have a project on hand, then the process will not be difficult. Of course, you can also use a calculator for calculating timber for a bathhouse; you can find it on the Internet without any problems, but if the structure is simple, then you can do it yourself in a matter of minutes.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
- We will look at the project shown in the previous chapter, in which the size of the building is 3x4 meters, there is one external partition, which is also 3 meters long. Since in a bathhouse it is recommended to make even the internal partitions the same thickness as the external ones, we will calculate the total length of the walls: 3+4+3+4+3=17 linear meters. Also immediately note to yourself that you have two walls of 4 meters and three walls of 3 meters, this will be needed a little later;
- Next, you need to calculate the amount of timber, for this you need the height of the structure, in our case it is 2.55 meters, and the height of the timber itself, let’s say you chose a good option 150x200, that is, the log house will consist of 15 rows;
- Above, we determined that we have 3 three-meter and 2 four-meter walls, through simple calculations we get a result of 45 three meters long and 30 four-meter long bars;
- Since materials are sold in cubic meters, we will convert our pieces into the required units of measurement. One linear meter has a volume of 0.03 cubic meters, that is, a three-meter element is 0.09 m 3, and a four-meter element is 0.12 m 3;
- The calculation is simple - 0.09x45 = 4.05 cubic meters of timber 3 meters long and 0.12x30 = 3.6 cubic meters of elements 4 meters long, you have the exact length result in your hands, so you will purchase exactly what you need, and in During the work process, the amount of waste will be minimal.
Important! If you purchase ready set, then you won’t have to count anything, since you will be supplied with everything you need to carry out the work; this option is also attractive, although it involves additional financial costs.
| FOUNDATION: | |
| crushed stone: | |
| 6.8 m³ x 1900 RUR/m³ | 12920 rub. |
| concrete M200: | |
| 5.2 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³ | 21840 rub. |
| concrete M200: | |
| 22.7 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³ | 95340 rub. |
| rod fittings Ø10, 12, 14 AIII: | |
| 1.5 t x RUB 37,500/ton | 56250 rub. |
| blocks foundation FBS 24-3-6 : | |
| 36 pcs. x 2360 RUR/pcs. | 84960 rub. |
| cement-sand mixture: | |
| 1 m³ x 2700 RUR/m³ | 2700 rub. |
| softwood board for formwork: | |
| 1.1 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 7150 rub. |
| roofing felt RKK-350: | |
| 3 rolls x 315 RUR/roll (10m²) | 945 rub. |
| TOTAL: by foundation | 282105 rub. |
| COVERS: | |
| wooden beams 150x50; 170x100; 150x100: | |
| 2.6 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 18200 rub. |
| Knauf plasterboard slabs (2500x1200x10): | |
| 16 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs. | 4160 rub. |
| metal profile with fasteners: | |
| 132.5 l.m x 51 rub./l.m | 6758 rub. |
| mineral wool insulation (Rockwool): | |
| 11.4 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³ | 42180 rub. |
| : | |
| 110 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 7480 rub. |
| polyethylene vapor barrier film: | |
| 110 m² x 11 RUR/m² | 1210 rub. |
| plywood sheets FC 1525x1525x18: | |
| 0.8 m³ x 19,000 rub./m³ | 15200 rub. |
| subfloor board: | |
| 0.9 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³ | 5850 rub. |
| TOTAL: by floors | 101038 rub. |
| ROOF: | |
| pine beams (150x50mm): | |
| 2.4 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 16800 rub. |
| wood-protective composition: | |
| 35 l x 75 rub./liter | 2625 rub. |
| waterproofing film (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 107 m² x 68 RUR/m² | 7276 rub. |
| profiled sheets SINS 35–1000: | |
| 102 m² x 347 RUR/m² | RUB 35,394 |
| self-tapping screws with washer EPDM 4.8x35: | |
| 4 packs x 550 rub./pack (250 pcs.) | 2200 rub. |
| ridge profile (2000mm): | |
| 5 pcs. x 563 rub./pcs. | 2815 rub. |
| sheathing board 100x25mm: | |
| 0.6 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³ | 4200 rub. |
10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,260;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,155|2155:65,0;65,260;206,260|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20
RUB 747,553.0
Only for the Moscow region!
Calculation of the cost of work
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Example of 8x7 m layout for calculation |
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1.
Wooden beam 150x150mm; 2. slab mineral insulation d=100mm; 3. Plastic siding; 4. Ventilation gap d=20-50mm; 7. Floor beams d=150-250mm; 8. Roof made of corrugated sheets; 9. Monolithic foundation concrete slab and prefabricated blocks h=1.8m; |
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Timber-timber wall finished with siding panels and interlayer thermal insulation
Timber-beam wall
The high popularity of timber and log construction among our fellow citizens is predetermined by the traditional nature, accessibility and healing aura of forest house construction.
The features of a wooden dwelling have been proven to normalize the level of humidity within 45-55%, saturate the premises with fintocides, and also have a pacifying effect on the psyche of people.
It is worth noting that recently there has undoubtedly been a growing interest in molded, in particular, prefabricated laminated timber material, which is characterized, in comparison with non-glued solids, by increased (due to adhesive joints) heat-saving and strength properties, as well as significantly lower shrinkage properties . Without a doubt, the disadvantage that slows down the mass use of laminated veneer lumber is its significant price, which, however, is more than justified by its long service life.
In construction warehouses it is possible to see timber products of standard sizes 140x140, 100x100, 120x120, 150x150, 180x180, 200x150, 150x100, of which the most used size is 150x150 mm, since it has optimal ratio structural characteristics and low cost, as well as the complexity of installation, expressed by the number of sealed inter-row joints.
Standard diagram for assembling a house made of timber:
- First, on the foundation, covered with a waterproof film, along the contours of the walls, a lower row of timber is installed, which is connected by a tenon insert at the corners and at the joining points of the internal partitions.
- In order to join the logs together, dowels are used - round oak or birch dowels with a diameter of 3.0-4.0 cm, which are installed effortlessly into holes made through three rows of beams, every 0.3÷0.4 m. Quite often, dowels are replaced with large nails (25÷30 cm), with the obligatory execution of a groove in the upper log, 30...40 mm deep, into which the nail is placed, to compensate for the linear compression of the lumber during shrinkage.
- To prevent windows and doors from becoming deformed during the shrinkage of a wooden house, door and light openings are framed in vertical areas with “casing” - profile posts. In this case, a U-shaped tenon is cut out at the ends of the rows of timber, along which the mentioned timber profiles move, due to the corresponding recess. Above windows and doors, technological gaps are arranged and filled with fiberglass or felt insulation.
- When erecting walls, log rows are laid with a seam seal (flax wool, hemp, jute, flax jute, felt, tow), which after 9-12 months (or when the water content of the log house reaches 12-15%) will have to be caulked again to minimize heat loss through inter-beam joints.
- When choosing interior decoration seasonal deformations of timber-log walls should be taken into account and, when installing inelastic cladding (for example, plasterboard sheets), avoid direct connections to the timber wall by adding suspended buffer frame structures.
Siding cladding
If all-season residence is planned, the log cottage should also be covered with thermal insulation. As a rule, they are attached from the outside, in a vertical position. wooden joists, with dimensions of 100x50 mm, with an interval of 400-600 mm, between which insulation is laid (for example, type: P-175, Ursa, Izomin, P-125, Knauf, Rockwool, PPZH-200, Isover, Isorok), after which hydraulic -and windproof film (Izospan, Yutavek, Tyvek), secured with a counter-lattice, 25÷50 mm thick, onto which a decorative false wall (painted lining, DSP panels or plastic siding) is attached.
Due to the fact that the vinyl siding profile changes its linear dimensions quite significantly when oscillating temperature regime, then you need to use loose fastening of vinyl plates.
Today, manufacturers of plastic siding (for example, brands: Nordside, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Docke, Vytec, Snowbird, Tecos, Ortho, FineBer, Gentek, Mitten, AltaProfil, Holzplast) offer a rich color palette, giving any home the opportunity to look different from the rest.
It is important to consider that PVC siding can remain attractive appearance and last a long time only if the installation instructions are followed punctually.
PVC siding is resistant to chemical, atmospheric, mechanical factors, is not subject to corrosion, and does not support combustion.
In a fire, a polyvinyl chloride profile only melts, igniting when heated to at least 390°C (and wood is already at 230-260°C), quickly extinguishing when the source of heating is removed, and the volume of carcinogenic heating products is no more than when smoldering wooden structures.
Basic technological rules for fastening PVC siding:
- When hanging the next siding strip, snap it onto the locking protrusion with the underlying strip and, without pulling it, secure it with screws;
- In order to disguise seams, hanging vinyl panels it is better to do it starting from the rear wall of the building, moving to the front wall, and each subsequent siding strip will cover the one already installed in the row being performed, by about 2.5...3 cm, for the same purpose, the resulting joints, for adjacent rows, need to be shifted horizontally.
- The mounted siding plates should move easily left and right; to do this, do not tighten the screws in the mounting slots all the way.
- In places where external communications are carried out (wires, brackets, cables, pipes), as well as at connection points plastic panel and accessories (H-profile, internal corner, external corner, platband, etc.), it is necessary to provide cuttings of about a centimeter to ensure thermal contractions or expansions of PVC siding.
- In order not to interfere with thermal contractions and stretching and, thus, not to provoke point arching PVC material, screw self-tapping screws or nail nails into the siding profile in the center of the finished factory holes.
- Vinyl profiles are fastened from the bottom up, according to the instructions; first, a special starting profile is installed.
Slab reinforced concrete foundation with block prefabricated tape
The slab-side base is arranged around the perimeter external walls buildings in the form of a solid reinforced concrete slab on which standard concrete blocks are placed.
The type of foundation under consideration is practiced in low-rise buildings to form the basement level of the house, on unstable lands, subject to a low level groundwater. In waterlogged areas, the side walls of the foundation should be made in the form of a continuous reinforced concrete strip, using waterproof coatings: gluing, coating, impregnation.
Along with this, the prefabricated block system vertical walls foundation, on a ready-made reinforced concrete slab, is optimal for fast construction rates, as well as for the production of a “zero” cycle during the cold period.
The standard sequence for making a single-slab foundation with side parts in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete strip:
- First of all, the earth is dug out to the designed depth.
- Crushed stone, 40/60 in size, 150-200 mm thick, is poured onto the resulting base and compacted thoroughly.
- Sand-cement filling is carried out, 50 mm thick.
- A waterproof film is spread with an extension of 180-200 cm along the edges for lateral waterproofing of the sides of the foundation base.
- To protect the moisture-proofing layer from possible ruptures during welding of the reinforcement structure, a second layer of cement mortar, 40 mm thick, along the perimeter of which formwork is placed at the height of the foundation slab.
- The formed slab is reinforced with two rows of welded iron rods with a diameter of Ø14, type AII, with a pitch of 20x20 cm.
- For slab foundations, only ready-made concrete, grade M300, class B22.5, transported by a concrete mixer, is allowed.
- The duration of concrete hardening (when it is already permissible to install a perimeter from FBS blocks) is at least 4 weeks in warm weather.
- The installation of wall blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, controlling the alignment with the theodolite. The prefabricated blocks are guided by a truck crane onto a “bed” of mortar.
- It is more correct to begin installation by laying beacon blocks at the intersections of axes and in the corners of the building. You should start arranging linear blocks only after checking the position of the reference blocks along the horizon and level.
- Using the last row of FBS blocks, in board formwork, a reinforced mortar screed is produced, 250 mm high.
Beam-wood floor
Floors from wooden beams traditionally popular in dacha construction, due to the convenience and cost-effectiveness of their manufacture.
Coniferous wood (for example: spruce, larch, pine) with a moisture content of no more than 14% is traditionally used for logs. It is known that the strongest beam is a block with an aspect ratio of seven to five (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).
When calculating lumber for flooring, it is necessary to be guided by special tables that take into account the dependence of the parameters of the beam structure on the span size and load; or you can start from the simplified rule that the width of the beam should be about 0.042 of the width of the room, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with a laying step of beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 150 kgf/m².
When there is a shortage of lag of sufficient size, it is permissible to use bolted boards, while leaving the overall size unchanged.
Characteristic moments of installing a beam-and-timber floor:
- in wooden log houses, the edges of the beams are hemmed in the shape of a funnel, and then driven into the finished opening of the upper crown to the entire depth of the wall.
- The lag is installed in the following sequence: first the first and last, and then, with control by the bubble level, all the remaining ones. Beams should be placed on wall structure no less than 15-20 cm.
- To avoid possible damage by rot, which may occur during diffusion of steam in a masonry niche, the ends of the beam boards are sawed off at an angle of about 60°, coated with an antiseptic solution (Biosept, KSD, Teknos, Senezh, Pinotex, Cofadex, Tikkurila, Biofa, Aquatex, Holzplast , Tex, Kartotsid, Dulux) and cover with roofing felt, keeping the end open.
- The beam beams are set back from the wall by at least 5 cm, and the space between the beams and smoke channel must be at least 40 cm.
- Usually in brick buildings the edges of the beams are located in the openings of the masonry, in which moisture condenses, for this reason, between the end parts of the beams and the masonry, space is left for ventilation, and if the groove depth is significant, another layer of thermal insulation is installed.
The interfloor ceiling is not insulated, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier membrane on top of the thermal protection, and the ceiling top level thermally insulated with a vapor-tight layer on the bottom of the insulation.
Since the problem of structural reliability of wood-beam inter-level floors is mainly removed by obviously increasing the cross-section of the joists and their number, then with fire resistance and noise insulation everything does not look so clear.
One of the options for increasing the sound-proofing and fire-retardant parameters of wood-beam interfloor ceilings consists of the following points:
- From the bottom of the load-bearing logs, at an angle of 90 degrees, with the help of spring brackets, after 0.30-0.40 m, metal profiles are fixed - sheathing, on which gypsum fiber boards are suspended from below.
- A synthetic film is spread over the manufactured lattice structure and stapled to the beams, onto which slab mineral fiber insulation is tightly laid out, for example: Isover, Isorok, Knauf, Ursa, Isomin, Rockwool, in a layer of 5 centimeters, with a rise to the vertical surfaces of the floor beams.
- In upper-level rooms they are screwed onto the beams with self-tapping screws chipboard sheets(16÷25 mm), after this, a high-density basalt fiber sound insulator (2.5...3.0 cm), and again, plywood slabs are laid to prepare the floor.
Corrugated roof
The corrugated sheet material consists of sheets of molded metal of a trapezoidal shape, painted with a zinc layer, which are marked with symbols such as B-45, NS44, NS35, MP-35, H57, H44, H60, NS18, S-21, where the numbers indicate the size of the profile section.
The main benefits of a corrugated roof, in comparison with metal tiles, consist in a minimum of costs and speed of implementation.
To decorate the roof, corrugated sheeting with a corrugation amplitude of 2 cm is used to ensure the required strength and economical use lathing material. The working angle to the roof horizon is considered to be at least 1:7.
The roof is installed on load-bearing structure, composed of sheathing preparation and rafter elements.
When constructing private buildings, 2.3-x -span structure with inclined roof trusses and intermediate supporting walls.
The supporting ends of the rafter beams are lowered onto a mauerlat with a section of 10x10-15x15 cm; interval between rafter beams Usually it is about 600-900 mm with a section of rafter beams of 50x150-100x150 mm.
Standard installation procedure for profiled metal sheets:
- Roof using corrugated sheets of profiled steel, like any other roofing base made of rolled steel, when arranging a warm attic space, provides for the use of under-roof waterproofing membrane, type: Izospan, Stroizol SD130, Tyvek, Yutavek 115,135, TechnoNIKOL, which covers the inter-rafter heat insulating material from draining condensate water.
- The waterproof membrane is installed horizontally, from bottom to top, with an inter-tier overlap of 10÷15 cm and a sag between the rafters of about 20 mm, with further gluing of the seam line with adhesive tape.
- To remove unnecessary inter-tier joints, the long side of the profiled sheet is chosen similar to the transverse size of the roof slope, plus 20...30 centimeters, taking into account the overhang.
- The interval between the sheathing bars is determined by the slope roof slope and the thickness of the profile relief: if the profile grade is S-8-S-25, and the slope is steeper than 15 °, then the gap between the battens is 400 mm, and for the NS-35÷NS-44 nomenclature - about 0.7÷1.0 m .
- To avoid lifting of the corrugated sheets during gusts of wind, their fastening should be carried out from the lowest corner of the end cut of the roof, opposite to the prevailing direction of the wind flow.
- The corrugated sheets are fixed to the sheathing boards with galvanized self-tapping screws, 28...40, Ø4.8 mm long, with sealing washers, in the deflection of the wave, and the ridge corners, on the contrary, in the crest of the wave. Along the cornice, fixation occurs in all lower zones of the profile relief, and the consumption of screws is considered to be 6 ÷ 8 units. per m2 of profiled material.
- The longitudinal overlap of corrugated sheets should be done in one wave, but if the slope of the roof slope is less than 12 degrees - in two corrugated waves.
Houses made of timber versus wood log houses have a number of advantages. Due to the fact that the timber has a geometrically correct shape (in cross-section it is either a square or a rectangle), much more usable space appears in the house, and it is much easier to calculate the amount of timber needed to assemble the walls.
To do this, you need to add up the lengths of all the walls, multiply them by their height and the thickness of the beam, consider an example of the formula:
V timber = wall length X wall height X timber thickness
Let's get the number of cubes of timber needed to build a house.
Correct calculation of timber for a house
Calculate required quantity timber for a 6x9 house, with a fifth wall, 3 meters high, made of 150x150 timber, for this we add the perimeter of the walls, not forgetting about the fifth six-meter wall 6+6+6+9+9=36 linear meters, then multiply by the floor height (3 meters), 36 linear. m. x 3 meters = 108 sq. meters in order to get cubic meters, multiply the resulting area by the thickness of the timber 108 sq.m. x 0.15 = 16.2 cu. meters.
That's basically all, now you should understand how to make the correct calculation required timber for the home, even a schoolboy can figure it out according to the scheme described above.
Now let's talk about how timber houses are assembled
On an already prepared foundation we lay any waterproofing material, for example roofing felt or roofing felt. Mortgage boards treated with (required!) antiseptic are placed on top. These boards serve as a protective buffer between the foundation and the first row of beams. If during operation the base of the house rots, it will be the embedded boards (they can be replaced), and not the first layer of beams.
Laying the first crown
The next step is laying the first crown of the building. The main thing here is to carefully observe the dimensions of the building along the axes, horizontal level and measure the angles planned by the project. Here you also need to decide in advance which corner joint for the timber will be used when laying it.
The photo shows the laying of the first crown on the foundation Corners are checked using twine stretched diagonally from corner to corner and its length is measured. Then they are also stretched diagonally between the second pair of corners. If the distance matches, the next crown is laid. If there is a discrepancy, the distance is corrected. In professional construction organizations For these purposes, they do not use improvised means, but special high-precision engineering tools.
Before assembling the first layer of timber, one of the following is selected the following types pairing wall corners:
- half-wood assembly;
- assembly into a dressing with a root spike;
- assembly on dowels.
Laying subsequent crowns
The second and subsequent layers of timber are connected to each other on wooden dowels (dowels), which are a wooden rod, thanks to which the crowns are attached in height. This fixation prevents displacement and bending of the building material during drying.
Methods for connecting and joining beams The hole for the dowel is drilled several millimeters in diameter larger than the dowel itself, so that during subsequent shrinkage the timber can freely “walk” along the dowel, thereby preventing the formation of cracks.
Houses made of timber are very popular and have a number of advantages compared to log wooden houses. Geometrically correct form timber (the cross-section turns out to be a rectangle or square) allows you to create more usable space, and it becomes much easier to calculate the amount of material needed to build a house. To do this, you need to know the length and height of all sides of the structure and multiply by the thickness of the beam.
Types of timber products
To date, on construction market You can find timber of various sections. Thus, they often buy timber products with a section of 120x120, 150x100, 180x180, 200x150, 150x150, 100x100, 140x140 mm. All of them are purchased for certain structures. But the most popular section of timber is 150x150 mm, since it combines good cost and excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Also, lumber products with a cross-section of 150x150 mm are simply laid, resulting in a significant number of seam-caulked joints.
Plus, recently, prefabricated laminated timber, that is, profiled, began to be supplied to the market. If we compare it with typical lumber, it has increased strength properties, heat-saving characteristics due to tongue-and-groove joints, and also reduced shrinkage. Therefore, many experts recommend using it. There is only one drawback - the high cost of the material. Prefabricated timber has a higher cost, but it is quite justified, since its service life exceeds the time of using conventional lumber.
Formula
V beam = height of walls x length of walls x thickness of beam
Carrying out calculations in this way, we will obtain the required amount of material to build a house. Let's give a simple example. If you are going to build a house, the height of the walls will be equal to 3 meters, and the length of the walls will be 9 and 6 meters from 150x150 mm timber, then you must first calculate the perimeter. That is, we add up the length of all the walls: 9+9+6+6=36 linear meters. Next, we multiply the resulting number by 3 meters and get 108 square meters. At the last stage, we multiply by the thickness of the timber, that is, by 0.15. As a result, it comes out to 16.2 cubic meters. Thus, the question of how to calculate the amount of timber per house should no longer arise.
Calculation example
As you know, the sale of bars and boards on the market is carried out precisely in cubic meters. This is very often used by many sellers, who allow them to take extra into their pockets, since buyers do not know how to calculate the cubic capacity of the timber. At the same time, finding out the required cubic capacity is not so difficult. There is one simple method. So, if you purchase lumber of the same size, then you need to multiply the length of the beam by its cross-sectional area. Thus you will find the quantity in cubic meters in one unit of lumber. And then you multiply this number by the number of units.
Let's give an example: if you bought 20 units of timber with a length of 6 meters and a cross-section of 150 x 150 mm, then first we find the cross-sectional area of the lumber. To do this, multiply 0.15 by 0.15 = 0.0225 m2. Then we multiply the resulting number by 6 (the length of the beam). The result is 0.135 m3. Well, at the last stage we multiply by the total quantity, that is, by 20. The total cubic capacity of the purchased timber will be equal to 2.7. That's enough simple method You can calculate the cubic capacity for any lumber. By applying this formula, you will save a lot of money.
Calculation of timber for a house is necessary in order to determine the required amount of lumber for the construction of a rafter system, implementation formwork work and floor coverings of a construction site. Its correct calculation is especially important when building cottages from laminated or sawn timber.
How to calculate the amount of timber per house?
In order to correctly navigate the needs of lumber, it is necessary to make a structure design indicating the exact dimensions on which the length of the timber depends. Regarding its thickness, it is important to consider the following factors:
- for a private home or baths will do timber with a section of 200x200 mm;
- for seasonal construction it is possible to use wood with dimensions of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm.
Based on the fact that the cost of wood building material indicated in cubic meters to calculate exact quantity pieces of logs in 1 cubic meter, you need to make a simple calculation:
1m3/Z/W/L, where
- Z - board width;
- W - board thickness;
- L is the length of the board.
The design of the house involves calculating the required volume of ceiling and floor beams, determining lumber for the rafter system, external walls, gables, and internal partitions.
Often, construction uses ceiling and floor beams with a cross-section of 100x150 mm using a pitch of 0.7 to 1 meter. In order to determine their quantity, you must use the formula:
- Ld is the length of the house;
- Ls is the length of the applied step.
Taking into account the fact that lumber is sold by the supplier in cubic meters, calculating the cubic capacity of a timber involves multiplying its cross-sectional area and linear length.
Calculation of timber for external walls and load-bearing partitions involves determining the area and thickness of the walls. Multiplying these parameters will give the total volume of timber required for the construction of the specified structural elements.
Timber cubic capacity calculator
To accurately calculate the cubic capacity of lumber for rafter system the use of special arithmetic algorithms will be required. The beam calculation calculator will greatly simplify the task. Correct definition the required building material guarantees the reliability of the construction of the building structure and savings in financial costs.
The program will allow you to calculate timber online by entering initial data. By changing the specified parameters, you can compare several projects and choose the most profitable one from a financial point of view. By processing the individual parameters of a house project, the calculator will make the most accurate calculation, eliminating the risk of overpaying for excess material. It is important to consider the possible percentage of defects, which is about 5% of the total volume of lumber.
