A plasterboard box under the bathtub - construction features and inspection hatches. Options for creating a box for pipes in the bathroom Box in the bathroom from panels
A modern plumbing room has many communications intended for water supply, sewer system and heating. All of them significantly spoil the interior of the room, which makes it necessary to cover them. The ideal solution for such camouflage is considered to be a pipe box in the bathroom, which is a simple but quite functional design.
Specifics of the pipe box
Bathroom and toilet rooms have a characteristic microclimate and contain various engineering systems public use. Meters are usually installed on these pipes to monitor the flow of all types of water and shut-off valves. All this requires periodic maintenance, which includes checking the integrity of the connections, cleaning the filters and repairing any faults.
There are various ways to aesthetically close communications. One of them is a hidden wiring, in which special grooves are created for pipes in the walls, but this option cannot be considered as universal due to a number of disadvantages. Installing the box will provide access to technical systems, it can be completely collapsible or have special doors.
Design requirements
There are certain requirements for the box masking the pipes, the main ones are as follows:
- 1. To avoid cluttering the room, the decorative box should occupy a minimum amount of space, since the sanitary room has a small area. However, during the manufacture of the structure, the required distance of its elements from the pipes must be strictly maintained, which must be at least three centimeters.
- 2. Providing access to communications without any difficulties. The structure of the box should allow the specialist to freely carry out the necessary operations with the elements of the engineering system. For these purposes ideal solution will removable design, otherwise it will be necessary to install numerous doors.
- 3. Safety that prevents physical injury to a person during operation.
- 4. Harmony with the decoration of the room, the ability to fit into the overall interior.
Taking into account the specific microclimate of the bathroom, the decorative box should be moisture resistant.
Advantages of a camouflage box
Upon registration modern premises In bathtubs, a box covering the pipes is often installed. Its popularity is due to a number of advantages:
- 1. Aesthetic appearance due to the quality of the materials used for manufacturing.
- 2. Ease of assembly, allowing the construction of the system not only during overhaul, but also cosmetic, since it is possible to install the structure on top of the completed finishing.
- 3. Providing unhindered access to the engineering system, allowing to monitor its condition and carry out renovation work if necessary, and record meter readings.
- 4. The possibility of productive use of bathroom space by combining the structure with a toilet installation, various shelves and other elements.
A carefully made box can be both functional and aesthetic, becoming a decoration for the room.
Options for obstructing communications
You can hide pipes in the bathroom in different ways, the most popular of which are the following:
- 1. Boxes in the form of cabinets, similar solution Typically used for vertical systems such as risers. The design provides full access to the pipeline, meters and other elements. Its advantage lies in the ability to place shelves and various devices for storing household items inside it. This allows you to effectively use the space in the bathroom and toilet.
- 2. Boxes like partitions, installed along the entire length of the room and to its entire height, thereby making a certain space separate. The disadvantage of this option is that it reduces the area of the room, but at the same time its appearance becomes ideal due to the complete hiding of all engineering systems. Such partitions are especially suitable for spacious rooms and toilets with wall hung toilet, since along with communications the installation is also masked.
- 3. Compact box located around the pipes. Similar designs are used quite often due to the fact that they do not take up space and give the room an aesthetic appearance. These systems can be located both vertically and horizontally, adjacent to the ceiling or floor.
Types and characteristics of material
To make a decorative box that masks pipes, you need to select the appropriate material, which must meet certain requirements. The main ones are expressed in resistance to high levels of humidity, low weight and small thickness. Also, the structure must be made from components that are environmentally safe.
Of all the materials offered by the market, moisture-resistant plasterboard and plywood, MDF or plastic meet these criteria. PVC panels and gypsum boards are especially popular.
PVC panels
Working with this material is the simplest option for closing pipes. His positive aspects are as follows:
- 1. A box for masking PVC pipes is not required additional work related to finishing.
- 2. If dismantling is necessary, all components are preserved, which is especially important for pipelines with fitting and threaded types of connections.
- 3. Easy installation, completely doable on your own.
- 4. Non-susceptibility to deformation and easy maintenance during operation. The material is flexible and reliable; if individual panels are damaged, each of them can be easily replaced.
- 5. Insignificant thickness, contributing to the compactness of the structure.
- 6. A product made of polyvinyl chloride can withstand repeated assembly and disassembly and provides the opportunity to store various accessories inside, creating all the conditions for this.
U PVC material there are not only advantages, but also weaknesses. One of them is low resistance to temperature changes. The material has a specific odor that cannot be eliminated. Plastic has the ability to disintegrate over time, releasing harmful components into the air during this process.
Moisture-resistant drywall
Compared to PVC panels Drywall has many more advantages. The main ones should be highlighted:
- 1. Easy installation. The GKLV material can be easily fixed on a base made of galvanized profiles, which allows you to create a box for pipes of any configuration and size. Carrying out such work does not require special skills or the use of complex equipment.
- 2. Plasterboard sheets are lightweight, which eliminates additional load on structural parts and involves using weightless galvanized elements to hold them.
- 3. The flexibility of the material, which makes it possible to give the product the desired shape. To do this, one of the sides of the gypsum board is moistened and trimmed.
- 4. Smooth surface, simplifying the process decorative finishing boxes In this case, additional leveling by plastering along beacons will not be required.
- 5. The texture of drywall allows for decoration various types finishing materials. Typically, tiles are used for this purpose, but you can decorate the pipe box made of gypsum board with clapboard, cover it with wallpaper, or simply paint it.
- 6. Fire safety of the material due to the fact that it consists of sheets of cardboard and hardened gypsum, which are not prone to easy ignition. In case of contact with open fire, drywall does not emit toxic substances that have negative impact on human health.
- 7. Environmental safety thanks to zero level formaldehyde emissions from drywall. The material will not cause harm both during installation and during subsequent operation.
- 8. Affordable price, making the material accessible to every consumer.
It is important to remember that the pipe box must be made only from moisture-resistant plasterboard, painted in green. This option tolerates high levels of humidity well and is intended for use in such conditions.
Manufacturing and installation
Before proceeding with the construction of the system, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. When laying new pipes, it is recommended to design them with as few connections as possible. Before installation, it is necessary to carefully check the pipes for various damages leading to leaks.
The material for making the box should be ideal for sanitary facilities. After taking the measurements required for subsequent work, a preliminary drawing is drawn up future design. It must provide free access to all devices and elements on the pipeline.
Preparation of tools and auxiliary materials
The design of a box for masking pipes in a bathroom includes a frame, lining and fasteners. In turn, the frame can be made either from metal profiles, or from wooden beams. Due to the fact that wood is significantly inferior to metal in terms of durability, it is recommended to give preference to the second option when choosing.
As fastening material it is necessary to prepare:
- dowels for mounting the frame to the wall;
- self-tapping screws for wood or metal, with the help of which the frame is assembled;
- self-tapping screws used for working with cladding material.
Before making a system for masking pipes in sanitary rooms, you should ensure that you have the following tools:
- roulette;
- square;
- building level;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- plane;
- scissors for working with metal or a hacksaw;
- knife with a sharp blade;
- UD and CD profiles.
Measuring operations
Before the start of construction, the location where the structure will be placed is specified, and all necessary measurements. This will prevent amendments during installation work, which are always accompanied by certain difficulties. It is almost impossible to change the size of an already prepared element without affecting other parts of the structure.
At this stage, the location of inspection doors or removable parts of the box is immediately thought out. It is recommended to include the thickness of the finishing material in the drawing where the dimensions of the system will be indicated. Marking for the construction of the frame begins immediately from the floor, while the dimensions between the walls of the structure and the pipes are strictly maintained, which should not be less than three centimeters.
After the contour of the box has been determined, it is applied using a plumb line to areas of the ceiling and walls that will come into contact with this structure in the future.
Assembling the frame for the box
The fittings around the pipes are usually made of galvanized profiles or wooden slats with excellent moisture-resistant characteristics. The latter option requires mandatory treatment with antiseptic agents. The frame parts are connected to each other using a cutter or self-tapping screws. Additionally, you will need dowels and special screws. The work consists of several stages:
- the profile is installed on the walls;
- racks are installed that will act as the front edge of the box;
- guides are installed on the ceiling and floor.
The length of the racks can exceed one and a half meters, in which case jumpers must be installed between them, which may still be required if the frame width exceeds twenty-five centimeters. The distance between these structural elements should be no more than one meter. Jumpers will add the necessary rigidity to the structure.
When making reinforcement from wood, the cut areas are treated with special construction mastics. This prevents the process of rotting and deformation due to temperature changes and fluctuations in humidity levels.
Sheathing process
After completing the cutting of all required elements, sheathing is performed. It is not recommended to cut from fragments of material; it is best to use whole pieces. This will minimize the possibility of distortions and discrepancies in size. When cutting, you need to look beyond the edges of the elements, which should not extend beyond the frame parts. Ideally, all elements should match each other. The cut out front face of the structure should cover the side parts.
Installation of the cut material to the reinforcement posts is carried out using self-tapping screws, the distance between which should not exceed two and a half centimeters. This will give the box rigidity and strength and eliminate the need for additional jumpers.
To control individual sections of the communication system in sheathing material are provided special holes and doors. They can be purchased at finished form in specialized stores or do it yourself. To prevent inspection doors from spontaneously swinging open, magnets or various locking parts, such as latches, are installed on them.
When making a completely collapsible structure, sheets of finishing material are attached using self-tapping screws to the very edge of the structure, and during the final finishing work they are not covered with anything. Only plastic corners or plinths are installed that can be easily disassembled if necessary.
A box in the bathroom allows you to hide pipes, taps, water meters and other communication plumbing equipment. It is easier to assemble a box from a metal profile, and use PVC panels or a sheet of plasterboard as cladding.
Preparatory work before installing the box
Before you start making a box in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to decide on the purpose and size. To decoratively hide the pipes, it is enough to create a light frame around them, covered with a moisture-repellent coating. If there are children in the house or you plan to place something on the created surface (basins, buckets, household chemicals), then you will have to strengthen the base with power bars. The creation of a lined false wall from floor to ceiling will help solve the issue of visual finishing of the resulting corners.
Before making a box in the bathroom, you will need to create a drawing of the planned structure on paper. It is necessary to include the installation locations of future hatches located opposite shut-off valves, water meters and flexible connection points. If a natural or forced exhaust is placed in place of the future frame, then you will have to create a ventilation duct in the bathroom. Assembled from building materials, it must provide sufficient air flow. The easiest way is to place a decorative grille opposite the existing one.
Assembling the box frame
You can assemble the box in the bathroom with your own hands using the following tools:
- drill or hammer drill;
- metal scissors;
- hacksaw for metal;
- hammer, screwdriver, tape measure.
It is advisable to assemble a box for pipes in the bathroom from waterproof materials. It is better to make the frame from a metal profile rather than from timber. The use of the latter is permissible only if there is a closed shower in the bathroom and a good quality hood. Filled hot water The bathtub bowl creates excess moisture, which is destructive to the timber. At the same time, its advantages include simple installation of the box in the bathroom and high mechanical strength of the entire structure. To protect the timber from moisture it is better to use oil paint, varnish or drying oil.
The rectangular box above the pipes is also assembled from a metal profile. To do this, at least three centimeters into the floor and wall (above top level pipes when placed horizontally or on the side when placed vertically), guides for the profile are screwed with self-tapping screws. The profile itself is measured by size: the height of the box plus its depth. Two parallel rectangular cuts are made in the profile using metal scissors to bend it at an angle of 90°, after which it is inserted into the guides. Further installation of the box in the bathroom consists of installing similar profiles with a distance between them of 40–50 cm.
The frame is assembled from timber in the same way. Can be strengthened horizontal plane future design by installing the block sideways into the floor - both when assembling from this material, and in the recess of the metal profile. A full-size wall-mounted vertical ventilation duct in the bathroom can be assembled from more thin timber(40x50 mm) or from a metal profile with a large pitch between the stiffeners.
Video: how to assemble a frame for a bathroom box:
Options for finishing the box in the bathroom
It is worth assembling a plasterboard box in a bathroom or toilet if the expected high mechanical strength. You will also have to use this material when finishing the bathroom frame ceramic tiles. The advantages of drywall include noticeable reinforcement of the frame. The place where the sheets are joined rectangularly in the box must be reinforced with a profile corner. The drywall itself is attached to the profile or timber using self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.
A box made of panels in a bathroom, similar in installation, is less resistant to dynamic loads. Such cladding is beneficial as decorative, without mechanical influence from the outside. It is easy to construct (screws or glue to the profile), moisture-resistant and does not require finishing. The plasterboard box in the bathroom will have to be covered with film, tiles or painted. The joints of panels or sheets with the wall (floor) are sealed with sealant and baseboards.
Installing a box in the bathroom with your own hands - video:
Installation of hatches in a box
Attaching a plastic hatch to plasterboard or a box of panels in a bathroom is exactly the same: just use a utility knife or jigsaw to cut out the perimeter of the hatch frame and glue it. Designing a fully opening box wall is quite technically difficult, especially when finishing it with tiles. Therefore, it is necessary to provide access to the pipe box in the bathroom to all places of threaded or other connections using hatches.
When deciding how to make a box in the bathroom, you need to proceed from the weight, dynamic load on its walls. It is not advisable to use plywood or hardboard (fibreboard sheets) for finishing because of their low moisture resistance and strength. The frame of the box made of a metal profile will add rigidity, and it will be strengthened by vertical load-bearing beams made of timber or the same profile. For service work, you will need to install plastic doors with glue at the joints of pipes or flexible plumbing connections.
Major home renovations often involve replacing pipes. After the installation of pipes or radiators is completed, it becomes necessary to hide communications to create a favorable appearance for the walls in the bathroom, toilet or any other room. A lot of work was done during the renovation period using expensive tiles, heated floors and attractive plumbing equipment, and a lot of effort put into creating a pleasant interior can be in vain if you don’t think through the camouflage of communications.
For such work they are used various materials, but the most acceptable is the use of plasterboard from which the box is made. Why does the choice fall on drywall?
The advantages of a plasterboard box for covering pipes are due to the following:
- affordability of drywall;
- ease of production of plasterboard structures.
- environmental safety of drywall, characterized by the absence harmful substances in its composition. This is especially true in the manufacture of boxes for batteries and heating pipes that generate heat when heating rooms.
A little information about drywall. This one is popular building material characterized by a multilayer structure with alternating gypsum and paper layers. Drywall sheets are available for sale in sizes of 2.5 by 1.2 meters. One sheet of drywall will be enough to make a box for the fan riser.
Pay attention! To construct a box in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom and toilet, you should use a moisture-resistant type of plasterboard.
Wood or metal
First of all, you need to assemble the frame. To make the box, either a metal profile or a wooden beam can be used. The advantages of a metal profile made of galvanized steel is that, unlike wooden beam, has increased resistance to moisture, long time is not affected by rust.
To the benefits wooden frame This includes the environmental friendliness of wood and a higher degree of sound insulation.
Materials and tools
Before you start making a box, you should consider a set of tools and materials.
Materials and tools:
- sheet plasterboard;
- metal profile (guide and rack);
- dowel-nails, self-tapping screws for fastening parts of the box;
- special knife for cutting drywall.
You will need materials such as polyurethane foam, shock-absorbing tape, putty to level the surface of the box. Tools that will be useful are a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a tape measure, a level, a plumb line, and a pencil.
Preliminary work
TO preparatory work processing refers to steel pipes heating and radiators (heating radiators) from which they are removed old paint and, if necessary, apply a new one. Paint like insulating material will protect metal pipes from premature damage by rust. These works must be completed before installing the box, which will subsequently block access to the pipes.
The above work will not be required if the box being manufactured will be used for sheathing plastic water pipes.
Pay attention! You can continue installing the box only after the paint on the pipes or batteries has completely dried.
Installation of the frame and its covering
The plasterboard box is fixed to the power metal frame with vertical and horizontal elements from profiles.
Pay attention! When alternating horizontal elements, a step of 60 cm must be observed.
The finished frame is sheathed with sheets and strips of plasterboard, pre-cut to fit the dimensions of the frame. Plasterboard parts are fixed to the profiles using self-tapping screws. They are screwed into the drywall with a small recess so that they can be hidden under a layer of plaster.
There are several methods to cover pipes with plasterboard:
1. Carry out “preservation” of the fan riser pipeline: remove rust from pipes, replace damaged sections of the pipeline, prime or paint pipes, seal joints between sections of pipes.
2. Work on installing the casing box should begin from the bottom. This means that the dimensions of the box, taking into account its contours, should be marked by drawing straight lines using a corner, starting directly from the floor surface - to the left and right of the pipe. Sections of profiles of the required length are fixed horizontally using dowels along the lines drawn on the floor. Horizontal profiles are installed in the same way on the ceiling (or in another place at the top of the future box). Vertical profiles are attached to installed horizontal ones. Next, the remaining horizontal profile elements are added in increments of 60 cm.
Pay attention! The vertical profile elements are attached to the horizontal guides using special self-tapping screws.
3. Cutting the plasterboard blanks is carried out after the final installation of the frame from the profiles. Drywall is cut with a special knife, often used for cutting wallpaper. Lines are drawn on the front side of the drywall sheet external dimensions individual sides of the box made of profiles. Furrows are applied along these lines with a knife, one at a time for each workpiece. The cut plasterboard blank is simply broken and then cut with reverse side sheet of drywall.
Pay attention! Plasterboard blanks are secured to the box frame using ordinary metal screws.
4. Window arrangement ( vent) in a plasterboard box opposite the fitting (taps and connecting devices on pipelines). The need for such a window is obvious - during operation, regular inspection and repair of the sewer system is necessary.
Only after you have learned how to cover pipes with plasterboard, and have completed all the work on installing the box, can you begin finishing works. They may include applying plaster to the surface of the box and then painting it, or lining the box with ceramic tiles.
Video
An example of making a pipe box:
Photo
The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful due to the pipes visible from everywhere. If you hide them, the bathroom can be transformed. That's why they use a plasterboard box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. You can also use the box to provide additional lighting.
The box is mainly needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and do not frighten you with their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing up the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.
You can always leave a hatch to have access to water meters
If you make a vertical box in the bathroom from plasterboard with your own hands, then it can be equipped with additional spotlights, which will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to the classic version, when the lighting is located on horizontal design. In both options, you need to bother with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, devices and equipment for working in rooms with high moisture content.
To sum up, we can say that a plasterboard box in a bathroom has the following functional purposes:
- Hides sewer pipes.
- Hides water pipes.
- Serves as a base for shelves.
- Serves as a basis for lighting.
Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. The method of its installation also depends on this. It’s one thing to make a thin box for a bathtub from plasterboard, and quite another thing to mount a wide box directly under the ceiling.
Preparatory work
In order for the work process to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe needs to be hidden, so all that remains is to think about the dimensions of the future structure; just step back from the pipe 2-5 centimeters in both directions and attach the profile there. This distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.
When covering vertical pipe it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it may have a certain slope. The pipe will extend as far as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to retreat a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.
The drawing itself can be created on a piece of paper for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using a drawing. Before making a plasterboard box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark it. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.
Marking for the box in the middle of the room As already written above, a plumb line is used to mark points on the floor and ceiling near the walls. With the help of this simple device they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a painting cord or a profile with a pencil, they are carried out on the walls. parallel lines, which will indicate the place where the guides are attached.
Now you will need to draw lines from the marked points on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.
After simple markings, you need to cut the gypsum board into strips of the required size, so as not to fool around with small space with large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box 25*25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material will still remain.
Frame installation
A plasterboard box in a bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or distribution pipes are hidden. To work you will need:
- metal screws;
- dowels;
- guide and rack profiles;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver and hammer drill;
- level.
The profiles are joined together at right angles A continuous guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. To install it, you need to take dowels 40 mm long and attach the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After this, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is attached in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20cm, you need two dowels, one is not enough). At the joints of the profiles there is no need to screw them to each other; this will be done at the time of covering with plasterboard.
Condensation often appears on the pipes and flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don’t have to worry about what happens to the hidden pipes.
For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. Moreover, one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it ends up at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, we need the CD profile, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post, in fact, is not attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.
If you do not glue the tiles to the box, you can use regular guides The stud will be firmly fixed during installation of the drywall. It will fit tightly enough into the guides and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits tightly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are classics of the genre in this case. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.
Jumpers for extra strength and hatch
Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a plasterboard box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in increments of 40-60 cm between the central post and the wall guides. As a result, the design will be more reliable. The drywall will be attached to the studs, which will make the surface of the box stronger and smoother. The jumpers themselves can be made from both CD and UD profiles (whichever you have left over). If the jumper is made of a rack profile, then it easily fits into the guides.
The jumpers can be secured with a notch to avoid bumps from screw heads If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off a few centimeters of the ribs on both sides of the jumper, leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that it can fit between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be secured. They need to be secured with metal screws.
Sometimes it is necessary to leave an inspection window in the box for the meter or other needs. Therefore, you need to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Simply insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.
Plasterboard covering and finishing
Only moisture-resistant drywall can be used. It traditionally has a greenish color. Cut gypsum board sheets are attached first to one side of the box, and then to the other. Moreover, you need to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will be more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in increments of 15 cm. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, not only is the gypsum board attached in this place, but the profiles are also fastened to each other. Drywall must also be screwed in places where jumpers are installed.
The heads of the screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but also do not stick out. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the head is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.
Now it’s clear how to assemble a plasterboard box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, all screw heads are puttied, as well as all joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. The joints must be primed first so that the putty will adhere better. Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the joints.
It is necessary to pay careful attention to all aspects when preparing for finishing. You should perform the above procedures carefully, and then the entire gypsum board box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, and this high loads. Therefore, the structure must be strong, and the putty must not lag behind. Don’t forget about antifungal additives, but these are finishing details.
If you need to cover more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you understand such nuances.
When developing a bathtub frame project, the main attention should be paid to accuracy measuring tool(it is advisable to have a ruler or tape measure with a measurement accuracy of up to 0.5 mm). Be sure to transfer all measurement results onto paper, and then draw up a sketch of the future frame to scale with exact dimensions. In the future, this will help you avoid mistakes when marking materials and their installation.
What is this article about?
What shape does a bathtub frame come in?
They can be roughly divided by type of material (wooden, metal, brick) and by shape (for corner, rectangular, round bowl). The main property of such a box is its strength and ability to withstand extremely high weight loads (the weight of a bowl of water and a person). The second condition is that the base material must have protective coating, protecting from high humidity, direct contact with water and not deform from temperature changes. The shape of the frame should copy the geometry of the bowl as much as possible and ensure strength.
Materials
Taking into account all the characteristics, we choose the option - a box in the bathroom made of plasterboard and a metal profile. Speaking in simple language, in order to assemble the bathtub frame we will need following materials and accessories:
- plasterboard (moisture resistant with improved characteristics of vapor permeability, water absorption and surface density);
- screws (with a countersunk head, with a cross-head slot and a sharp end);
- metal profiles (UD and CD);
- stationery knife;
- metal scissors;
- ruler and tape measure;
- building level;
- cordless screwdriver.
The advantages of drywall (used for installing partitions, suspended ceilings, wall cladding):
- lightness and strength;
- environmental friendliness and stability of characteristics.
Advantages of a metal profile (used for mounting frames):
- ease;
- corrosion resistance;
- obedience during work;
- pricing policy.
The technological process of using plasterboard includes the following main stages of work:
- marking sheets in accordance with the design position of the structure;
- installation of a frame from a profile for fastening sheets;
- installation and fastening of sheets to the frame;
- sealing seams between sheets and recesses from screws with putty;
- priming the surface for finishing coatings.
The technological process of using metal profiles is a little simpler than drywall and includes marking, cutting and fastening.
Important! Before installing the frame, it is necessary to determine the installation height, depending on individual preferences for the placement of plumbing and communication systems (height is taken as a basis - 600 mm).
An equally important activity is the removal horizontal level. You can draw the “horizon” using construction or laser level. Correct marking is the main condition for accurate installation of the bathtub.
Installation procedure
How to make a plasterboard box in the bathroom? For example, consider the option of a rectangular, standard bathtub. If the installation of the supporting perimeter for the bathtub will be made from a plasterboard profile, then the first step is to attach the profile strips cut to size to the floor with dowel nails and connect them into a rectangle.
The installation of support posts must be done as carefully as possible, since they will bear the main load. If the stand is adjacent to a wall, secure the stand to the wall in at least three places.
Next you need to assemble the upper support rectangle, which is necessary to evenly distribute the load across all support posts. The shape accurately copies the assembly of the lower support. Lay the profiles on corner posts and fasten firmly with self-tapping screws.
If you doubt the strength of the structure, you can fasten vertical racks another longitudinal segment, placing it exactly in the middle. If you think that this rigidity is not enough, install wooden racks parallel to the profile posts, having previously treated them with a protective compound.
How to cover a bathtub? Drywall can be cut to size using a regular utility knife and ruler. Simply set aside the required size and run a knife along the surface of the sheet, bend the sheet as if you want to bend a sheet of paper so that the cut line remains on top. Drywall will easily break along the cut line. Everything is very simple, the main thing is not to be afraid, and you can practice on small fragments (scraps) of drywall. How to install a bathtub on a frame? If the box of profiles is assembled without errors and lined with plasterboard, then installing a bowl in it will not be a problem. If the bathtub is made of acrylic, then you can install it alone, but it is better to ask for help and, without straining, install the bathtub into the base of the frame.
After we assembled the frame for the bathtub with our own hands, we solved the question - how to sew up the bathtub with plasterboard, the next stage begins - how to hide plasterboard sheathing or how to decorate the box? The most popular option is to cover the surface with ceramic tiles or mosaics. To do this, we will need about 30 ceramic tiles of the most common size (300x300 mm) and 2–3 kg of tile adhesive.
The joints between the wall and the bathroom must be reliably sealed. Here again there are several options:
- plastic corner (attached with silicone sealant);
- ceramic corner for the bathroom (plays the role of decor and prevents moisture from penetrating the seam between the bathtub and the wall, thereby preventing the occurrence of fungus and mold, as well as destruction finishing materials from the inside, attached to tile adhesive);
- seal the seams using sealant or liquid glass.
The most aesthetic and reliable way- ceramic corner. Plastic corner most susceptible to fungus, silicone glue becomes darker when exposed to moisture and loses its attractiveness.
And finally, let's look at the frameless method, when the bathtub is installed on universal standard racks. But even in this case, it is best to assemble the screen under the bathtub from plasterboard and line it with ceramics or plastic. The technology for arranging such a screen is very simple and convenient. Again, a profile is cut to the specified dimensions onto which the drywall is attached. Decorating such a screen is a matter of taste and your financial capabilities. It is best to mount such a screen using bolts with round heads to standard racks. On the racks, provide the option of having nuts (you will have to resort to drilling and welding) into which the bolts will be screwed.
When arranging a frame or screen, do not forget that the space under the bathtub must be ventilated and have access to the siphon. For this purpose, you need to make a technological grid that will solve the problem of access to plumbing and ventilation of the space. There are now a large number of such devices on sale; speaking of sizes, we can give practical advice– buy a door 300x400 mm. If you don't like it plastic door, you can buy a special door that has the option of finishing with ceramic tiles. In this case, you will still need to consider installing a small ventilation window.
Conclusion
A bathtub installed on a homemade box, the design of which is based on the advice given in this article, is guaranteed to be able to withstand extreme loads and provide long-term safe operation. For a metal bathtub, a frame is desirable, but for long-term use acrylic bathtub it is urgently needed. To install the frame, you need to choose a material that is strong enough and affordable. The most common material for homemade designs is a galvanized profile for plasterboard structures. Installing a bathtub on a frame made of metal profiles covered with plasterboard is the most reliable and effective method, which couldn’t be better.
