Installing drywall on a wood-framed wall. Attaching plasterboard to a wooden ceiling: methods for installing a frame made of wood and metal profiles. Requirements for materials and rules of work
For working with drywall use various materials. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.
Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that wood is susceptible to climatic influences, biological corrosion and is a fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical properties
The frame for plasterboard is made of high-quality wood coniferous species.
They make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. Timber of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of cladding.
Main physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, use a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for sheathing;
- For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, timber with a cross section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and sheathing, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 – 3.9 meters - 2×16 mm, 3.9 – 4.2 meters - 2×18 mm;
- The step between risers in all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must correspond to the first group fire safety;
- Connections using nails, tenons and self-tapping screws are allowed, with tenons being the most preferred, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be from 50 to 60 mm;
- Wall thickness can range from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie for several days in the room where it is intended to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for humidity and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates about the treatment of the material with fire retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.
Chemical treatment
Antiseptic treatment - condition long service lumber.
In addition to fire-fighting treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. Trees can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and other fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
- Biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
- Carpenter insects. There are many known insects that feed on wood and render it unusable.
- Rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.
Pests can ruin wood in a short time.
Various are used as antiseptics chemical compounds. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The maximum solubility is 3.5 – 4%.
Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Quite a strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium fluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.
The use of oily antiseptics in residential premises is unacceptable:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.
Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard
Tracing the lines connecting the partition to the walls
To draw lines, use the 3 or 4 meter rule.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply put, marking the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to build a partition from plasterboard: features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it by the width of the gypsum board sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it plumb down the wall. To do this, hammer a nail into a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.
This can be done by constructing the so-called “Egyptian triangle”: right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and the 5th to the hypotenuse.
In this case, we place one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of 3. Next, from the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build a circular arc with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
By connecting the intersection point of these arcs with the original lower point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, move this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)
Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and final line. Thus, we must get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can use a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.
Frame installation
Wooden frame For plasterboard partition.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.
To do this, bars should be secured along the lines that we drew along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or tenons to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.
If the building is made of stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use direct hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to attach beams to the wall.
We attach solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then bottom beam will be continuous and located on one side of the opening.
So, we attach all the bars and use an impact drill with a concrete drill to drill holes in the walls and ceiling.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, we proceed to installing the doorway.
Racks
The racks should be installed strictly vertically.
To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of plasterboard that will be at the doorway, and in place of its edge we place the lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect beams it is better to use metal corners and metal linings intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.
Each part must be checked for level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to position the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame can be easily done with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, preferably a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
The work of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive, so think carefully.
Tool
To work, you will need a standard set of wood tools.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at a construction supermarket. Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.
You can use thick mats so as not to lay the wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents the material from caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame for gypsum boards is a simple job and does not require special skills. This instruction gives general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and subtleties of assembling the structure.
– popular type finishing works thanks to the versatility of the building material. Basically they are mounted on. Drywall on wooden slats– the second most popular installation method.
Wooden slats can be used when installing partitions, walls and ceilings
Despite the development construction market, traditional ecological clean materials remain in demand. If brick or foam block is used for the house, then the bathhouse will definitely be made of timber. For such buildings, it is logical to install drywall on wooden slats.
In utility rooms with niches, on loggias there are pieces, their assembly is difficult in cramped conditions. It is much more convenient to cut the bars. Wood has low thermal conductivity, so it will be warmer on the balcony. As you can find out on our website. The sheathing can be made of different depths and the timber can be selected according to its width. It has the required thickness.
In a private house with a subsidiary farm there is a supply of wood. You can cut timber for the frame from it the right size. The wood is easy to process and convenient to fit small sizes.
Wooden blocks easy to process and easy to adjust to small sizes On drywall with a wooden base you can. The profile frame is reinforced with timber, attaching it inside the planks..
And finally, it will cost less than a profile.
Design disadvantages
The disadvantages include:
- Fears increased dampness. Therefore, in the bathroom, rooms with unstable temperature conditions not recommended to install wooden base under gypsum board. Special impregnations can increase resistance to moisture and prevent the formation of mold and mildew.
- Wood is a living material; under unfavorable conditions it shrinks and can lead. To prevent this from happening, be sure to choose dry timber (14-16% humidity). Before installation, it must rest indoors for at least a week.
- Wood is heavier than metal profiles - take into account the loads, especially when assembling ceiling structures.
Remember that even after treatment with special impregnations, wood is highly flammable.
Design modeling, marking
Before you begin installing the frame made of slats, you need to draw its diagram and make a preliminary calculation.
Diagram, material calculation
Measure the surface area of a wall, ceiling or partition:
- Standard sizes of bars: 50 x 50 mm, 50 x 40 mm, 50 x 70 mm. For partitions: 80 x 80 and 100 x 100 mm.
- Calculate the length of the guides running along the perimeter of the surface.
- The pitch between vertical bars is from 400 to 600 mm. There are 2-3 slats per sheet of plasterboard (standard width 1,200, height 2,500 mm).
- Then the jumpers are drawn and counted, the standard distance between them is 600 mm.
Read also
Connecting profiles for plasterboard
To calculate the linear footage, count the number of racks with jumpers and multiply them by the length.
Appearance wooden frame with designation of constituent elements Note! A reinforcing box is additionally installed around window and door openings. It also needs to be taken into account when designing.
Fasteners
To work you will need:
- screws or press washers for wood (20-40 mm);
- metal corners (for connecting jumpers and rack strips);
- dowel-nails (for mounting the frame to the wall).
To determine the amount of building material, you need to divide the surface area by the area (2.5 x 1.2 m).
Advice. Purchase building materials with a 15-20% reserve, taking into account substandard waste.
Marking
Planning is carried out in three stages:
- The surface of the floor and ceiling is rarely perfectly flat, so first determine the lowest point in the corners of the room. It is measured using a tape measure.
- They mark the horizon along the border of the entire room. IN small spaces(up to 20 sq. m.) apply building level or hydraulic level. It is convenient to carry out marking using an electronic tape measure with manual level adjustment. To do this, it is fixed at the lowest point in the corner of the room. Place a laser mark at a distance of 5 cm from the floor and ceiling. Make marks along it, then draw a line. You can also use a chop cord.
- Mark the location of the rack beam along the horizon line (with a distance of 40-60 cm).
Installation
Before starting work, the timber is processed protective composition deep penetration to improve moisture resistance. Start after the impregnation has completely dried.
During the work you will need the following tools:
- drill with chipper, screwdriver;
- building level, tape measure;
- plumb line and square;
- under electrical points.
Each stage of marking and connection is checked using a level or a construction angle.
Despite the fact that such construction material, like drywall, began to be used everywhere quite recently; it was patented back in the 19th century in America. His first sheets were most similar to a Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.
This “paper” has gained wide popularity these days.
A little about drywall
Modern drywall is complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:
- Increased sound insulation.
- Fire safety.
Drywall was once called “dry plaster,” but the name did not stick.
It is used for “dry” finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work.
Drywall is available in 3 versions:
- Standard, manufactured without additional additives.
Note!
Standard plasterboard panels, depending on thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.
- Moisture resistant;
- Fire resistant.
IN last years KNAUF, one of the main manufacturers of plasterboard, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed for leveling floor coverings. They have increased strength.
Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to that of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.
Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to plasterboard that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.
How to install drywall
Installation of drywall is carried out using frame and frameless methods.
- Frameless— sheets of drywall are attached directly to the walls using special glue.
- Frame— a frame for plasterboard is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and the sheets are secured to it with self-tapping screws.
Each method of attaching drywall has its strengths and weaknesses.
- Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires smooth wall coverings and installation work takes a long time due to the fact that in front further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
- The frame mount makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is hidden, albeit slightly.
Important!
With the frame installation method, stripping walls for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.
Drywall not only levels walls. When remodeling a room, gypsum plasterboard partitions are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be covered with anything.
Related articles:
Wooden base of plasterboard partitions
Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is environmental Safety premises - decide to make a frame for drywall from wood.
In order to extend the life of the structure, choose wooden parts the frame should be approached with all seriousness.
- The transverse cut dimensions of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be smaller in cross-section than 40x70 mm, for horizontal ones - 30x50 mm.
- All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and with a mixture that makes the structure fireproof.
Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.
- The frame is made from coniferous trees. Humidity wooden parts should not exceed 15%.
For your information!
Design requirements – first group for fire resistance.
Tools for work
In order to complete the frame manufacturing work, you need to have the following tools on hand:
- Drill.
- Saw or hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
- Screwdriver.
- Level.
- Mounting dowels.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
- Metal corners.
Making a partition in an apartment
To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare exact drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.
- When calculating the rigidity of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
- Counting required amount sheets of drywall.
- The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the support beams of the harness. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is done with self-tapping screws and dowels.
- Vertical struts are installed.
- Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.
The cross-section of the timber of these slats is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but still not less than 30x50 mm.
Important!
When stitching, sheets of drywall must be offset relative to each other on its opposite walls.
- Insulation and possibly insulated electrical wiring are installed on the partition mounted on one side.
- Sheathing begins on the side where the insulation is attached.
Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.
Mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or expanded polystyrene are used as insulation. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.
Note!
Insulating materials made of mineral wool, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional protection of the structure from moisture and reduce the fire hazard of the room.
The length of the metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is secured, must be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.
Wooden frame for wall cladding
It is advisable to install plasterboard on a wooden frame when covering walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.
- The wall is marked for the frame.
- Dangerous areas with weak plaster and unevenness are identified.
- The sheathing is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.
- Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheathing. The step between them is taken to be 600 mm.
- After the verticality of the structure is checked with a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
- Alignment of the structure uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out using a lining of chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.
Adviсe:
- To avoid making cuts in the drywall when making sheathing near door or window openings, the vertical slats are moved.
- During subsequent sheathing of sheets of joints above window or doorways there shouldn't be.
Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even without a partner. Even easier, if the floors are level, the installation process will not be difficult.
We will only talk about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for manufacturing the cladding. The approximate sequence of manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:
1. Mark the position of the sheathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting racks, you should subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.
2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.
3. Install short bars above the door and window openings, slightly moving the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in the drywall.
4. Finish (paste with plasterboard) window and door openings inside. Nailing sheets of drywall onto the walls.
5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.
6. Seal the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.
Walls made of brick and stone masonry are rarely perfectly smooth, so when making plasterboard cladding all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is in aligning the sheathing bars vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, smooth and smooth walls will not work.
Installation of the frame at uneven wall do it like this. First, the unevenness of the wall is identified. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform markings for the racks in increments of 600 mm. Then press the post beam vertically against the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting spacers if necessary. Evenness is checked by plumb line, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two outer posts (vertical bars) and stretch the cord between them. Then install the intermediate posts and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then also place something under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then set all the other bars.
To level the racks, scraps of plywood, fiberboard, and wood of the required thickness are used. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering them into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the block lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).
When deflecting over a large segment, the pitch between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the bar.
If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm for the length and 5 mm for the height. Bearing beams are inserted into the resulting frame in increments of 600 mm, and they are secured with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies with its front side on a flat floor, when assembled it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus eliminated. All that remains is to insert assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix them with dowels and screws or dowel-nails.
Marking for ordinary (universal, etc.) dowels is done using electric drill. To do this, the block is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the block in its original position, drill through holes in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The diameter of the drill should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After this, the wall is drilled for installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the block.
If you have to fasten the bars without a partner, then do this. Find the location of one dowel. Drill a hole in the wall (floor, ceiling) for it, into which the dowel is installed. After this, the block is attached to one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the block until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After this, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places opens. After this, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.
It is most convenient to attach the frame to a brick or concrete wall dowel-nails. The block is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a Pobedit tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.
Attaching the frame to wooden wall carried out using long galvanized nails.
Covering the walls of a room with plasterboard can begin either from a corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL are attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - from the edge of the cardboard-lined edge at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. Between the sheets of drywall there should be a space of 5-7 mm for finishing the seams. Between floor and end edges plasterboard sheets a gap of 10 mm must be left. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.
If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, during cladding the sheets are placed with adjacent end joints offset (staggered), and transverse beams are installed at the joints.
Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often partitions are built to remodel an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: gypsum boards are quite lightweight, construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.
Plasterboard partitions
Pine is often used as a material for making a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?
The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the harness. The beams are attached in the following order: ceiling-floor-walls. If indoors wooden floors, then it is easy to fasten the beams with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then fastening will be a little more difficult. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.
It is recommended to start fastening from the ceiling, having previously marked the location of the future partition. Once the beams are secured to the ceiling, you can apply markings to the floor and continue fastening. It is important to make the markings correctly; you can use a level or laser level.
When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can make more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After floor beam fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.
Once you are sure of the accuracy of the fastenings, you can proceed to attaching the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling to the floor with vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it was on vertical racks will bear the brunt of the load, so it is extremely important to secure it well. It is equally important to maintain the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.
Before you start strengthening the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.
If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials ( cellular concrete, drywall and so on), you need dowels yourself big size. The use of both dowel nails and special dowels is permitted. The following fastening option is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can later screw screws or hammer nails.
Another way to attach the harness: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and secure the beams with their help. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.
Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to installing the racks. Usually the distance between the posts is 60 cm, this is very convenient - subsequently gypsum board standard width(120 cm) can be mounted on 2 posts, making it easier to install drywall.
Installation of racks is carried out using wooden blocks, screwed to the rack and frame using screws. You can also attach racks with metal corners.
If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as lintels horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is great. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective pipe or use a tin box.
Partition insulation: nuances
Sometimes a building cannot do without additional insulation, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation insulating materials carried out when one side of the wooden frame is covered with plasterboard. Optimal material isolation is considered mineral wool and foam materials.
Insulation is quite easy, since the dimensions of the distance between the posts and the materials are the same. All that remains is to lay the material and secure it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be done on the inside of the already lined partition. If cavities form during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.
Often, during the process of facing the second side with slabs, a problem arises in the racks in the form of cracks. This happens for a reason large number screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the slabs on the walls are made with opposite sides(for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd side on the right).
It is important to remember that you need to leave a small gap of 1-2 cm between the ceiling and the top of the plasterboard. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable; it can be easily closed with a simple baseboard.
Extended septum
There are also extended partitions, when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double frame made of wood. The advantage of this type of design is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.
The difference between the construction of an expanded partition is that the piping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. The wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the cladding is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.
If there is a need to install a battery, then it should be installed not in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the holes for ventilation, then they need to be covered with plastic grilles. You need to remember that if you are installing a battery, you cannot insulate the partition with foam rubber or polystyrene. Mineral wool will do the job perfectly. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.
Installation on an uneven wall
The room may not always be perfect smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. You should start by identifying irregularities: the timber is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the marking for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack beam must be pressed vertically against the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end behind its exit on the floor.
It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical beams will then be attached to it. To level the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.
Installation of drywall can be done with your own hands, having an idea of what should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions; there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. You need to do everything before the process necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on all the materials and tools that will be needed. For example:
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- hacksaw;
- metal scissors;
- drill;
- level.
But perhaps the most important point in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for the permit. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.
