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Do-it-yourself metal disc cutting machine, drawings. Homemade very accurate cutting machine from a grinder Do-it-yourself pendulum cutting machine for metal

Section: Machines and tools

The goal of our work will be to make a cutting machine with our own hands. There is no need to describe how useful and necessary such equipment is in the work of any craftsman. and just on the farm.

We will start manufacturing from a frame-frame, its overall dimensions are 700*1000*900 mm.

A 25*25 mm corner would be an excellent material for the frame; we cut the blanks with a grinder and weld them. We weld channel No. 10 to the upper plane of the frame at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, to which, in turn, two vertical posts made of a 40 * 40 mm square are attached with bolts.

The racks are connected by a #216 12 mm shaft with a sleeve fitted (to avoid end movements of the disk, the shaft-bushing connection is made with a sliding fit with minimal clearance). A rocker arm from the same channel No. 10 measuring 800 mm is welded to this bushing, and in such a way that the arms are in a ratio of 1:3.

The electric motor is mounted on the smaller part of the rocker, the working shaft is mounted on the larger part, and the transmission of motion will be carried out using a belt drive.

Now about the electric motor. Preference should be given to asynchronous motors, as they are more reliable and durable. Practice shows that for normal operation with a cutting disc #216 400 mm, a “three-thousander” with a power of 2.2 kW, powered from a three-phase network, is ideal. One and a half thousand will do, but the gear ratio of the belt drive must be chosen so that the shaft is about 6000 rpm. In case of power supply from a single-phase network. The engine power should be increased by 30% and operating and starting capacitors should be used.

We order the working shaft with supports, flanges for the disc and a pulley for the “A” type belt to a turner, and the flange protrusion should be #216 32 mm. In this case, it will be possible to install both a cutting disc and a saw blade for wood on the machine. Both the motor and the shaft are secured to the shaft using M10 bolts and nuts.

The stroke of the rocker arm is limited by the chain, and springs are installed on the engine side to facilitate return (for example, from a sports expander). Fastening chains and springs using bolts.

The table is made from planed boards 40-50 mm, and to level out small irregularities they are covered with plywood or USB.

And another important point. When installing the shaft, you should install the saw blade and carefully check the perpendicularity of the planes of the blade and the table. If necessary, the position of the shaft must be leveled by using shims on the shaft bearing supports.

And finally, the last thing. DO NOT FORGET to provide disk protection.

The disk operates at high speeds, abrasive and metal particles may fly out, and if used saw blade with carbide tips, last offset. Disk protection is required!

What is needed for a cutting machine

Watch the video: Cutting machine for metal. Do it yourself. (Homemade cutting machine for metal.)

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Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder - convenience and practicality!

The grinder is a very useful and versatile tool. With its help you can cut metal, stone, tiles and, of course, grind surfaces, but sometimes it is much easier and more accurate to perform these works with a stationary machine. Fortunately, you can do cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands!

Homemade machine for an angle grinder - pros and cons

If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands quite often, you have probably already experienced its disadvantages. The weaknesses of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and the slightest vibration can lead to destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn can lead to serious injuries.

Secondly, with a mobile version of the tool it is quite difficult to control the precise perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary. Thirdly, it is quite difficult with a tool to cut several parts of the same size, especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, keeping both hands busy and extremely tiring concentration when working, since an angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools. Just look at the kickback – the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets jammed in the workpiece. The danger of a kickback lies not so much in the throwing of the tool, but in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, abrasive fragments can seriously injure the operator.

The kickback occurs especially often when completing a cut, when only a small bridge connects the parts. In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and cut the part with reverse side. A cutting machine, which you can construct with your own hands from fairly accessible materials, can solve all of the problems listed above and provide additional safety.

Making a cutting machine is a simple option

Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that at first glance satisfies your needs is enough simple task. But it is unlikely that there will be a design that fully meets all the requirements, because everyone’s requirements are different! In such cases, owners of machine tools try to improve or remake them, but are faced with very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring. Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

The simplest homemade machine for a small grinder can be made with your own hands at a minimum of cost and in just a few hours! The finished structure will be a long metal pipe that serves as both a frame and a handle. Closer to one end, a transverse metal strip with two holes for fastening the grinder is welded.

On the same side, the pipe is attached to one side of a small piece of angle on a movable shaft, while the other side of the angle itself is attached either to the work table, or simply to the floor in the garage! It is important to fix a spring on the opposite side of the mount, which will allow the entire structure to return to its original position. That's all - the machine is ready, you just need to secure the angle grinder correctly. Of course, this option is for the most simple work, for more precise and complex procedures it is necessary to make a more complex structure.

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder - for precision work!

To make a cutting machine, you will need the following materials and tools: a steel angle, a profile pipe, a metal sheet for the platform (or a lighter chipboard version), a welding machine, a channel, a drill, a shaft, several identical bearings, a small diameter pipe, a spring, and also relay and pedal. Welding, if you think about it, can be replaced with strong bolts - that's why you need a drill. By the way, this option will also allow you to disassemble the machine if necessary.

How to make a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Parts and drawing

The manufacture of the machine should begin with cutting parts onto the frame. To prevent damage to expensive material, carefully study the numerous drawings that can be found on the Internet or follow the models on the shelves. In the latter case, draw up a drawing yourself; you don’t need any special skills for this - the main thing is to present the finished structure and its proportions on paper. Each grinder needs its own drawing, because tools from different manufacturers can differ radically - in some places you can remove the handle, in others you’ll have to come up with a stand for the entire grinder! Plus, under different sizes The disk needs a different frame.

Step 2: Frame

The simplest frame consists of two frames on a common axis. The lower frame should be fixed to a platform - metal or chipboard. If the grinder is large, it is better to use metal. The upper frame, to which the angle grinder is screwed, should rotate vertically relative to the lower one, like a pendulum. A spring is needed to fix the original position. A fastening is welded to the lower frame, which consists of a clamping angle and a movable clamp.

Step 3: Ruler

It is very important to provide measuring parts in the machine, thanks to which you can cut workpieces with an accuracy of up to 1 mm. In this case, a movable ruler with a limiter welded to the tube is best suited. Having set the exact size using it and secured with an end screw, you can get to work!

Step 4: Electronics

For ease of operation, provide in the design a start pedal or button with switching through a low-voltage 12 V relay. Through it, voltage will be supplied to the angle grinder. With the help of such a simple design, we free up our hands, achieve an accurate, even cut without using a vice, and also save time on accurate measurements. This tool will replace cutting saw on metal, and if necessary, you can always return the angle grinder to its mobile state.

Do-it-yourself grinder machine - safety first!

When working with an angle grinder, stationary or manual, you should always remember safety. In the case of a stationary option, you need to take into account the direction of the tool and the position of the protective casing - it is important that the casing completely hides the area in which the operator is located. If you have a machine, you will probably have a desire to use the tool for other purposes than for its intended purpose - for example, attach a saw blade for wood to an angle grinder, which is absolutely forbidden to do!

Wood is a heterogeneous material; it may contain knots or even nails. The rotation speed of the grinder significantly exceeds the set speed of a standard sawmill, which will very quickly render the saw blade unusable.

But, besides this, unlike abrasive and grinding discs, saws have sharp teeth that pose a high danger. Risking your health for a quick cut is simply unreasonable. After installing the tool and the new disk, the operation of the grinder should be checked for at least 1 minute at idle speed - the circle should rotate completely freely, without excessive vibration, without touching the casing.

Leave the solution for 5-6 hours. Then the foam will separate and rise up, leaving liquid below. You need to carefully drain this liquid and spread it on the painting in several layers. After each layer the painting must dry completely. Then you can hang the picture and forget about it for half a year or a year. Then the painting should be washed with water. After this, you can safely coat the picture with varnish.

How to pour sugar into a glass: In order to pour sugar into a glass, you need to take a spoon, scoop it up, bring it to the cup and pour it out! ?

Do-it-yourself cutting machine from an angle grinder

DIY Milling Machine Drawings

Video on how to make your own metal cutting machine from an angle grinder

Click on Play to view

If you have to hold an angle grinder in your hands quite often, you have probably already experienced its disadvantages.

The weaknesses of the tool stem from its main advantage - mobility. Firstly, it is not always possible to secure parts during cutting, and the slightest vibration can lead to destruction of the abrasive disc, which in turn can lead to serious injuries.

Secondly, with a mobile version of the tool it is quite difficult to control the precise perpendicularity of the cut, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the mark and the material being cut, and even hold it if necessary.

Thirdly, it is quite difficult to use a tool to cut several parts of the same size. especially when it comes to twigs and small pipes - after cutting you also have to trim the parts.

And, of course, keeping both hands busy and extremely tiring concentration when working, since an angle grinder is one of the most dangerous tools.

Just look at the kickback – the sudden kickback of the tool when the rotating abrasive disc gets jammed in the workpiece. The danger of a kickback lies not so much in the throwing of the tool, but in the concomitant destruction of the circle. At such high speeds, abrasive fragments can seriously injure the operator.

The kickback occurs especially often when completing a cut, when only a small bridge connects the parts.

In this case, it is recommended to stop the tool without cutting the workpiece to the end, remove the circle and cut the part from the reverse side. A cutting machine, which you can construct with your own hands from fairly accessible materials, can solve all of the problems listed above and provide additional safety.

2 Making a cutting machine - a simple option

Video on the topic

Finding a ready-made machine on store shelves that at first glance satisfies your needs is a fairly simple task.

But it is unlikely that there will be a design that fully meets all the requirements, because everyone’s requirements are different! In such cases, owners of machine tools try to improve or remodel them, but are faced with very serious obstacles - either the manufacturers made the machine from alloys that are very difficult to work with by welding, or they did not take into account the little things that you need specifically - for example, an accurate ruler or a more elastic spring.

Remaking someone else's is much more difficult than making your own!

Grinder cutting machine

Having worked a lot with an angle grinder, I came to the conclusion that using this useful tool as efficiently as possible.

And this is what I came up with for this.

■ It is difficult to cut several parts of the same length from small pipes, rods, etc.

Trimming takes extra time, and each time you have to set a new mark.

■ It is necessary to constantly monitor the perpendicularity of the cutting, take into account the thickness of the disk in relation to the tube and mark, so that there is no error.

■ Vibration of the part during cutting leads to destruction of the disk in a matter of seconds.

By converting a hand tool into a stationary one, I eliminated the listed disadvantages.

The machine consists of two frames on a common axis (photo 1, 2).

The bottom one was rigidly fixed to a chipboard slab. (Fig. 1).

403 Forbidden

The upper one, with the angle grinder B screwed on, rotates vertically, like a pendulum, relative to the lower one (Fig. 2). The initial position of the tool is fixed by a tension spring.

To lower the cutting disc, I press the grinder handle down. When released, the cutting part returns back.

A dismountable fastening unit consisting of a movable clamp and a clamping angle is welded to the lower frame (photo 3).

Below is a movable measuring ruler with a limiter, welded to the tube.

Having locked the bar with an end screw, I set the size only once (with an accuracy of 1 mm), after which I cut the required number of absolutely identical parts of any size - right down to the rings.

I start the machine with a pedal with switching through a low-voltage relay (12 V), which with its powerful contacts supplies 220 V to B. Accordingly, neither the pedal nor the wire located on the ground, even if the insulation is damaged, pose a danger to humans.

I install, remove and fix B using a clamp, which is used on the top covers of boxes for storing and transporting equipment (such as a cover). The weight and dimensions of the machine allow it to be transported in a box of a passenger car.

Advantages of development

■ No vice needed

■ Produces a very even cut

■ The pedal frees up your hands

DIY cutting machine

I plan to weld the frame of the stairs to the second floor and for maximum accuracy of cuts at an angle I need a cutting machine.

I started to take a closer look at them, but somehow the prices are not very childish, and there is little use for them on the farm in the future. At the insistence of those surveyed, the option of installing cutting wheel metal into a wood miter saw, was discarded.

I decided to pay attention to devices for grinders.

Watched different variants, the price varies from 300 to 600 thousand, but I didn’t like the longitudinal play in all of them.

Because of this play, there may be a deviation in the angle of up to 5 degrees. How lucky is that? After some thought, I decided to build such an adapter myself. It was a pity to waste 300 thousand on it.

What I needed:

* Bulgarian

* welding machine

* clamps

The materials used were second-hand iron, 3 bolts f 16 were purchased to fasten the angle grinder, and friends suggested a carriage from a bicycle.

As a result, personal time was spent - it is priceless

4800 for three bolts from speculators

10,000 for cutting wheels

Well, about a dozen electrodes and a couple of kilowatts of electricity.

After wallpapering: After gluing the walls in the room with wallpaper, you should not leave the room to ventilate, as the pasted wallpaper will begin to fall off or become covered.

To keep nails at hand: Sometimes we put nails or screws in our mouth, in our pocket, or simply hold them in our hand. It is much better to hang a magnet around your neck. They will be securely held on it in any quantity and your hands and mouth will be free

Homemade vulcanizer - production and use

If you have a punctured tire, the easiest option is to go to a tire shop. However, there are many who like to do everything themselves, and a tire service is not always nearby. Sometimes the costs associated with going to a tire shop (travel, time, the procedure itself) add up to a substantial amount, especially if you have to use this service often.

In general, for various reasons, for those who want to fix breakdowns at home, I offer several options making a homemade vulcanizer With minimal costs. Using a homemade vulcanizer, for example made from an iron, you can quickly and reliably repair cars, motorcycle and bicycle tubes, air mattresses, heating pads, various beanies, inflatable toys, etc.

One of the most common options for a homemade vulcanizer is the option using an old iron.

The reason for this is new, more functional irons, and old (Soviet) irons in working condition (if you don’t have any left) will not be difficult to find from your neighbor. Here's a free basic vulcanizer part for you.

Below are a few designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the basic idea is the same, the difference is how to ensure a clamp connection at the site of vulcanization of the rubber product.

Raw rubber is soaked (for some time) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of a patch.

The puncture site is treated with sandpaper (the size is generous) and wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut from tube rubber, the edges are rounded. The patch is also treated with sandpaper and then with gasoline. Next: put raw rubber on the hole, put a patch on it, clamp everything in our vulcanizer. You can place a piece of newspaper to prevent the rubber from sticking to the vulcanizer plate.

Wait until water comes into contact with the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes). Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a little, remove the vulcanizer, and let the rubber cool. They also check the temperature using granulated sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it’s time to turn off the vulcanizer.

If your thermostat is working, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted experimentally. If the smell of burnt rubber appears, this is a sign high temperature if the patch has not merged well (vulcanized) - a sign of insufficient temperature or short vulcanization time.

After one or two times everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be started :)

For more specific work, you will need a simple mold, which is made from two steel plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws.

The inner edges of the plates are slightly ground down so that the edges do not cut into the rubber. In the case of a complex configuration of the parts being repaired, the plates are given the appropriate shape or additional holes and grooves are made.

Before starting work, thoroughly clean the area to be treated (the edges of the pasties are cut at an angle of 45°) and degrease with light gasoline (B-70).

Then a patch of the required size is applied to the repaired area. raw rubber, put into the mold and tighten tightly with screws. By placing it on a heated iron so that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, wait for 10-15 minutes.

During operation, make sure that the rubber does not touch the hot parts of the iron.
Grooves for gluing beads are drilled with the halves of the mold tightened, and the diameter of the drill should be equal to the diameter of the bead. You can drill several holes in one mold, under different diameters beads, however, the distance between them should be no less than the thickness of the workpiece.

Otherwise, heating of the gluing area will be uneven and the quality of vulcanization will deteriorate.
Cleaning the gluing areas or trimming the ends of the bead is done immediately before work, and the raw rubber is applied in a thin layer - this will make the connection stronger.

Diagram of a vulcanizer with an integrated clamp

Vulcanizing iron: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron.

Cut a bracket from five-millimeter steel (see Fig.

figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it on top, and a strip of metal 50 mm wide along the inside. The cross-section of the resulting clamp should be T-shaped. Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then bolt the iron body to the bottom of the clamp - and the vulcanizer is almost ready.

The simplest option vulcanization with iron- no modifications at all.

Raw rubber is applied to the cleaned area of ​​the rupture, then paper and everything is pressed on top with an iron.

Some weight is placed on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, iron temperature 140-150 °C (thermostat in “silk” position). Since the exact temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken not to burn the rubber.

A burning rubber smell will indicate that the heat is too high.

Another option homemade vulcanizer made from an electric stove and a clamp

Based on the dimensions (diameter and height) of the ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made from iron 5 mm thick.

Four rod legs and a clamp are welded to its walls. You insert it into the case ceramic element with a spiral, on which, to prevent its contact with metal, it is necessary to place a gasket made of sheet asbestos.

From below, the electric heater is closed with an iron cover using two bolts.

Main details of a homemade vulcanizer:
1 - body; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 — ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - power cord.

A bimetallic thermostat from a regular iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance, is attached to the upper surface of the housing, near the clamp.

The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of an iron. By monitoring the surface temperature of the vulcanizer plate with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150°C.

DIY metal cutting machine

At the same time, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.

And the last option is a traveling one that does not require electricity, which can be very useful in case of troubles along the way.

This homemade vulcanizer, made using a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, which requires only 40-50 grams of gasoline to use.

The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture and includes only a few parts:
1 - vulcanizer base
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 — holes for self-tapping screws
8 — holes for bolts

Base 1 is made of wood, since wood does not interfere with good heating of the rubber.

Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes in the base and secured to the base using self-tapping screws 5, preventing them from turning in the hole in the base. . Bolts are made of metal rod diameter 12mm. A washer is welded at one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut at the other.

A beam is placed on both bolts on the thread side, which, using nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
The damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston.

Materials and design can be changed - only the principle of operation is important.

To repair the camera, you need to find the damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a patch of raw rubber on the damaged area and cover it with a piece of newspaper, and place a piston on top. We press the piston using the rack with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rag into the gasoline.

We set fire to the gasoline and after all the gasoline has burned, we give time for the piston to cool completely. Only after this do we remove the piston.

The repair of the damaged camera has been completed. The patch looks the same as after a regular vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require repeated repairs.

If you are interested in making a homemade winch

Repair it yourself and, as they say, “not a nail…”

DIY metalworking machines

For each company (factories, plants) the most important is the air supply, as well as water cooling, which is necessary in each technological process. For this purpose, special systems with fans are used.

DIY metal cutting machine

Various pumps and fans are DIY metalworking machines for stabilizing the temperature process in production. Special machines monitor energy consumption and absorb the effects of noise.

We use scales for each trading company selling food products. Modern scales are an automatic device that accurately measures the weight of goods. The device is equipped with a display and a special keyboard, which allows you to set tariffs for servicing gas equipment in 2016 and display the necessary information for the seller and buyer.

You can control the leveling from a power source or charge it from a battery (portable version).

In any office or company, they maintain optimal air temperature and air exchange using special devices. This is necessary to organize a convenient workflow. Among various devices We use equipment for mini-smokers: covers, air conditioners of various modifications, ventilation shafts with natural and artificial cooling.

Ventilation can be exhaust, inlet or mechanical.

Important: do-it-yourself metalworking machines

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For food processing companies, various machines are used that provide an automated workflow.

The automation setting can be determined using some functions in the t-shaving machine for Chelyabinsk. These are different groups of machines that differ depending on the functions they perform. All technological operations can be classified in accordance with the principle of the work performed, the design and modes of implementation.

Companies that produce semi-finished products for sale in grocery supermarkets are equipped with special refrigerators.

Freezers are a 2c132 purchase that stores the final product for a fixed period of time. In frozen devices, ready-made semi-finished products are equipped with a special conveyor belt equipped with a spiral belt.

Do-it-yourself pendulum saw for metal

How to make a homemade circular saw?

• Homemade circular saw
• Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor
• Mini circular saw
  • Making the base
  • Engine Installation

A homemade mini circular saw will perfectly solve the issue of savings.

Because not everyone House master in order to make minor repairs, he can afford to purchase it. But sometimes it’s impossible to do without such a tool. The resulting homemade circular saw can perfectly cope with the task associated with small construction, for example, in a country house.

In order to make repairs at home or in the countryside, you will need a circular saw, and you can do it yourself.

Homemade circular saw

A homemade circular saw is designed to cut logs.

The thickness of the logs that this equipment can cut depends on the power of the electric drive.

Circular saw assembly diagram.

If it is necessary to cut thick pieces of wood, these saws are equipped with a shaft, a belt drive and the most powerful engine.

Any hand-made circular saw consists of a lower and an upper part.

Electrical equipment is installed in the lower part:

• transformer
• engine
• starting device.

On the top part is fixed:

It is better to make the frame of the upper part of the saw from a 25 mm metal corner.

Approximate dimensions of the rectangle in which it is presented top part 600x400 mm. Pipes are welded in its corners (recommended height #8211 is 2.2 m, and diameter #8211 is 17 mm).

Additionally, 2 corners are fixed along the frame and to strengthen the bearings. The distance between them is determined by the size of the shaft.

Well, another cutting machine :)

To secure the bearings, clamps are used. Chips will not get clogged between the rings, balls and cage if closed type bearings are installed.

The end of the shaft must be threaded so that the disk is clamped.

Diagram of the bearing assembly of a circular saw.

It is best to make the lower part massive so that the circular saw is stable. To make the frame for this part, use a 40 mm corner. To secure the engine, you also need to additionally strengthen 2 corners across the frame. An asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of 1.5 kW and 1500 rpm is the best option for a DIY circular saw.

The pulley groove has an internal size of 80 mm; it is mounted on the shaft. There is also a need to weld a small platform to attach the starting device to.

Pipes 2.2 m long, welded to the corners of the frame, are needed to tension the belt so that the metal wings press the thin pipes.

After this, the lower and upper parts are manually circular saw they are embedded in supports, the role of which is played by pipes, then they tighten and tighten the belt with the wings. Starting an asynchronous motor in this model homemade saw carried out through starting capacitors.

To additionally load the engine and increase torque, it is possible to use a 220/36-400 W transformer, the connection of which is made using an autotransformer circuit. The location of the capacitor and transformer does not matter much in the operation of the circuit.

Pendulum circular saw with powerful electric motor

Diagram of a table for a circular saw with a lifting-lowering mechanism.

Mini circular saw

With this indispensable tool for home construction, you can cut any material and at any desired angle.

This means doing all the work associated with the rotating saw blade. Now let's look at how to make a mini circular saw with your own hands.

Making the base

It is very important to ensure that the inner edges of the plate are perfectly parallel. Attaching the tool from below to the table will be done so that the circular saw is between the sheets of the tabletop in the middle of the gap. Using the drilled holes, a mini circular saw is attached to the table in this position.

Cut hand tools a profile, pipe or any other workpiece strictly perpendicular to the axis and cleanly is not an easy task, and with the help of an electric pendulum saw it is a mere trifle.

The device consists of a base frame and a sheet of metal (or a sheet of durable plastic), hingedly connected by an axis on one of the sides.

On the side of the frame opposite the axis, a corner is welded parallel to it, into which pipes or profiles are laid for cutting.

The top sheet holds an electric motor and a shaft connected by a drive belt. Don't forget to attach a comfortable handle.

At the end of the shaft opposite the pulley there is a clamp for attaching a cutting wheel or circular saw.

This pendulum saw can cut almost anything: metal, plastic, wood (even logs). When sawing logs, the lower frame rotates 180′ around the hinge axis.

In this position, it is fixed with something, for example, an assistant can stand on it. To avoid moving a heavy log after each cut, it is easier to move the saw along it.

Workpieces can also be cut under different angles. To do this, the corner on which the workpiece is placed must be secured to the base frame not by welding, but with bolts, and the possibility of installing it at different angles to the saw blade must be provided.

Saw blade shaft assembly details

1-shaft, 2-bearing bracket, 3-saw blade bushing clamps, 4-pulley.

DIY pendulum saw

It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines in a home workshop with a pendulum saw.

You can fix it on a workbench, next to a bench vice in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disc. He can handle steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets and even hardened to any hardness. metlakh tiles, porcelain and glass, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disk with a saw with a fine tooth, you can cut wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.

To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice; in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.

Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves and even turn it into a regular circular saw.

For such a saw you will need a single-phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric sharpener) or a three-phase type AOL 21-2 with a power of 400 W and a rotation speed of 2800 rpm.

The rotation is transmitted to the machine spindle by a V-belt type A-I018 from a GAZ-24 car.

Rice. 1 Pendulum saw: 1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - tool protective casing, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - belt protective casing, 6 - A-1018 V-belt, 7 - M8X14 mm screw, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt casing cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer sleeve (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - bolt M6X12 mm, 15 - screw M5 X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203.

23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - M6X8 mm screw. 26 - M8 X 16 mm screw, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - M6X16 mm bolt, 30 - 1/2" pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing ( steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).

The basis of the saw is a square-section spinal frame, to which the spindle housing is welded on one side, and on the other, a plate for installing the engine. A 1/2" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the saw's swing axis.

When performing welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint it with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.

The belt casing and abrasive disc casing are made of 2 mm thick sheet steel.

It is best to weld workpieces from the inside using a fillet weld. The belt casing is screwed directly to the engine and frame, to which the abrasive disc casing is also screwed.

The drive handle is located on the removable belt housing cover.

Before assembly, fill the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease.

Insert felt rings soaked in liquid lubricant into the bearing grooves.

When the saw is assembled, the motor must outweigh the spindle and be located below, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.

Rice. 2 Pendulum saw accessories:A - for cutting grooves: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table fixed in a vice

B - for cutting sheet material: 1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.

Cases for bolts and nails: For convenient storage of bolts, nails, screws, etc.

It is very convenient to use jars with screw-on lids. Nail the lids to the bottom of the wall cabinet and screw the jars with the contents into the bottom. Now every little thing will be in its place.

Fleas in cats and dogs. An excellent way to fight: A cat, dog or other animal can be freed from fleas by bathing it in a decoction of tobacco. After this, wash with warm water.

In the workshop of a home craftsman or individual entrepreneur of a technical or repair and construction profile, a cutting machine is the second most needed after a drilling machine. Or after welding machine, if the master specializes in wooden and/or metal structures.

Just on the farm, a pendulum cross-saw will greatly facilitate the preparation of firewood and reduce costs. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to make a cutting machine with your own hands, making do with a minimum of precise and complex work. Or even without them, if there is already a corner Grinder– Bulgarian.

About TB

Rice. The above is not just a splash page. It shows how not to work on a cutting machine so as not to injure yourself, spoil the material and not accidentally ruin your own homemade product. Well, it’s clear here: your hands must be protected from sawdust (as well as your eyes and the whole body), and you cannot use this equipment without a protective casing(s).

Now let's look at the trail. rice.:

Everything seems to be going well, even a face shield instead of goggles. Which is definitely more reliable. And what is wrong? Take a closer look. In fact, not point by point from thick volumes of regulatory documents. Well, for those who haven’t seen it, here it is: a machine made from a grinder. Therefore, the rocking chair is not balanced. But instead of the bumper spring that is required in this design (see below) there is an elastic link (like a tie for a bicycle/motorcycle trunk). It is unreliable, the likelihood of a break is highest in an emergency situation, and it is difficult to make a deep cut, the stubborn rubber rips the handle out of your hand.

What exactly are we talking about?

There are dozens of traditional designs of units for precise cutting of sheet, roll and long materials, not counting lasers, etc. from the age of high technology. We will further consider machines with a swinging working module and a round rotating cutting element - an abrasive or saw blade. Such cutting machines are called pendulum. They are the most versatile (including suitable for broaching - making longitudinal cuts of limited length) and can be done independently in a shed and garage workshop. When they say “cutting machine,” in the vast majority of cases they mean a pendulum cut grinder.

Note: The pendulum cutting machine is suitable for working on metal, wood, MDF, sheet plastic and any other materials that can be cut. The entire reconfiguration is the replacement of the working tool (abrasive or saw blade for the appropriate purpose).

Motor or angle grinder?

This refers to the machine drive - separate or combined in a monoblock with a working (cutting) element and a power transmission to it. A separate motor has the advantage that the swinging part of the unit - the rocker (pendulum, rocker arm) can be made properly balanced, which greatly simplifies the work on the machine and increases its productivity; the latter depends relatively little on the cutting resistance of the material. In addition, the entire machine can be made suitable for intensive round-shift work, which can be important for those who earn income with hands that grow in the right place and a head that works as it should. An angle grinder (grinder), as you know, can work continuously for 20-60 minutes. (depending on the model), and then forced technical downtime to cool down the instrument. But for occasional use, an angle grinder has a number of advantages:

• A fairly durable and accurate cutting machine from an angle grinder can be manufactured without turned parts and with a minimum welding work or without them at all, see below.
• The basic tool remains suitable for self made outside the machine.
• Power supply – single-phase 220 V from a household outlet.
• Starting devices and protective grounding are not required, because Only angle grinders with double insulation are widely sold.
• The external characteristic of the commutator electric motor of an angle grinder is softer than that of an asynchronous electric motor with a squirrel-cage rotor, which saves motor power and electricity consumption. In most cases (except for cutting thick, strong and/or viscous materials), we can assume that an 800 W electrical angle grinder is equivalent to an asynchronous motor with 1.2 kW on the shaft (see below), and a 1300 W angle grinder is equivalent to a separate 2.0 kW motor. 2 kW.
• Cutting machines made from angle grinders are lighter, more compact and transportable than those with a separate drive.
• Inexpensive angle grinders are not equipped with speed controllers, but a regular speed controller for a drill is suitable for them (no more than $20; usually $5 - $6). A “frequency generator” for an asynchronous motor up to 2.5 kW costs from $50.

In general, if you are engaged in assembling metal structures on site and have vehicles, or sell rolled metal (or lengths of wood) with cutting to size from the customer, then you need to make a machine with a separate drive. If trimming and cutting at precise angles is not an everyday necessity for you, then the best option would be a cutting bed for an angle grinder.

About speed control

Why adjust the disk speed? In order not to exceed the maximum linear speed of the edge and/or rotation speed indicated on it. Otherwise, the disc may not rupture, but its performance will drop significantly, wear will increase, and the quality of the cut will deteriorate. The nominal rotation speeds of asynchronous motors 2800-2850 rpm allow the use of conventional disks with a diameter of up to 350-400 mm or more, which gives a cutting depth of at least 150 mm. The angle grinder spindle rotates much faster (from 6000 rpm), and placing a regular disc with a diameter of more than 160 mm on it is dangerous. The cutting depth reaches 50-60 mm, and the high-speed disc is expensive and wears out quickly. Installing a speed controller solves the problem. Productivity and cut quality do not suffer, because are determined linear speed rotation along the cutting edge.

About the name

An angle grinder sounds “technically”, but in fact it is inaccurate, because The grinder does a lot more cutting than grinding. " Angle drill» even worse, because to drill – to drill, bore, for which an angle grinder is generally unsuitable. An angle grinder is a tracing paper from English. "angle grinder machine". But the English word to grind is much broader in meaning than all types of abrasive processing. For example, a meat grinder is a meat grinder. “To grind” does not have an exact Russian analogue; in meaning it is something like “shred into shreds along the back streets.” In general, the colloquial “Bulgarian” is terminologically incorrect, but it is short enough and it is clear what it is.

Note, by the way. During the Korean War, US troops had to come to grips with the Il-2 attack aircraft. That’s why the English “Meat grinder from Hell” was added to the number of honorary nicknames of this legendary machine. Which indirectly testifies to the fortitude of the American soldiers compared to the German ones; those more often used “Betonflugzeug” (concrete plane). It was very difficult to shoot down the “hunchbacked one” (this is in our language, in the infantry way).

Real pendulum

How a “real pendulum” metal cutting machine works is shown in the figure; the swinging “pendulum” is highlighted in colors.

The “feature” of the design is a rocker arm, balanced by the weight of the motor so that the idle feed force (without cutting) over the entire length of the working stroke is approx. uniform and amounted to approx. 5 N (about 0.5 kgf). It is precisely this “idle” force that allows an experienced machine operator the best way feel the material and automatically work with maximum productivity without accumulation of fatigue, literally effortlessly. If a dangerous situation arises and the worker throws the feed handle, then the inertia of the motor and the rocker spine ensure a smooth rebound of the disk. Transition probabilities dangerous situation in an emergency, damage to the cutting element is greatly reduced, and the workpiece most often remains undamaged - I looked at what was wrong, corrected it, and finished cutting it.

Note: There is almost always a return spring for the rocker arm in balanced pendulum cutting machines, but it practically does not play the role of an emergency break spring (see below), it only gives an initial push to the heavy rocker if the disk is “bitten.” Most often, the return spring in machines of this type is used to set the idle feed force “to suit you”.

Homemade examples

The most complex assembly unit of the design shown above is a rotary table with a corner divider; It is impossible to do it at home “on your knee”. Cutting at a given angle with all the structures described below is carried out by turning and fixing the entire machine relative to the table (workbench) for workpieces with a longitudinal stop (or vice versa, the workbench relative to the machine). It’s easier with cutting machines from grinders, see below.

The appearance and drawings of the main parts of the most versatile homemade cutting machine are given on the following. rice.

This machine is also mobile: within the site, it can be carried by hand and carried in the trunk of a car. This can be a valuable quality, for example, when installing/dismantling/repairing pipelines on site. Motor power on the shaft (see below) is 1.2-1.5 kW. Disc rotation speed 2500-2900 min –1; disc diameter up to 350 mm.

For those who are still confused about tolerances and fits, also in Fig. conditions for matching conjugate dimensions are given; dimensions D32 are consistent with the rule for D15. To obtain the required coaxiality (centering) of the journals of the working shaft for the bearings (D20 –0.03) on a lathe of normal precision, they need to be sharpened clean in one setting and one pass of the cutter (feed is minimal, this is not to tear off scale).

The rocker arm in this case is a steel sheet S>4, reinforced with a core made of D30 pipe; its bend is the feed lever. The rocker can be framed, made of professional pipe from 30x30x2. Its span (length) is not critical within 400-500 mm. There is no return spring (can be supplied). The upward throw of the rocker arm is established by moving its “tail” back from the hinge (see below).

The bearing races of the working shaft are installed mirrored with holes D21 to each other. This mounting technique is called “butt to butt” in informal design jargon (softened in the public publication). In this case, it allows, without additional structural elements, to eliminate the longitudinal displacement of the shaft in the bearings, because the cups of their cages are closed on the right by a faceplate, and on the left by a driven pulley. The assembly of the working shaft assembly on the rocker arm is carried out as follows. in order:

1. bearings are placed in ready-made cages (with jibs welded and cut flat);
2. races with bearings are put on the shaft, as indicated above;
3. a driven pulley is put on the long shank D15 (left in the drawing);
4. a spacer is put on top of the pulley on the same shank;
5. the pulley is tightened tightly through the spacer with an M14 nut;
6. the shaft in bearings and with a pulley is placed on the underside of the rocker arm and temporarily pulled to it by the middle with a clamp (not tight!);
7. the bearing races are also temporarily bursting with wooden splinters;
8. the shaft is aligned exactly parallel to the front edge of the rocker arm: its upward projection should be tangent to the bearing races. Use two bench squares at the same time!
9. The clamps of the clips are quickly welded using tacks. Current – ​​no more than 60-80 A;
10. the clamp and spacers are removed, and the ease of rotation of the shaft is checked. If it sticks, cut off the welding clips and repeat paragraphs. 6-10;
11. The bearing races are finally welded. Cook in short stitches, alternating right and left;
12. Let the assembly cool completely and check the rotation of the shaft again. It jams, sticks - alas, it is overheated during welding. The arms still need to grow as they should, and the clips will have to be made (ordered) again. It is possible to change the bearings;
13. the shaft rotates easily and smoothly - it covers the bearing assembly with a light casing from sawdust and scale.

The rocker joint is assembled in a similar way, but “butt-to-butt” (with the cups of the clips inward) and is also covered with a light dust cover. The hinge axis is a piece of round timber D(21...45), whatever is at hand. At the ends there are machined bearing journals, the same as on the working shaft, and M14 shanks with a length of 40 mm. The bed is made of corrugated pipe, angle 40x40, etc. scrap metal at hand. The hinge is attached to the eyes of its struts with pairs of nuts (inside and outside). Another option for assembling the hinge is to weld its bearing races to a flat frame along with the axle, as in the inset in Fig. Then the rocker arm is welded to the hinge axis or attached to it with threaded hardware. But in this way it is much more difficult to center the hinge, and it is more difficult to protect its bearings from dust.

The drive pulley of the engine must be made/selected such that the disk rotation speed is close to the nominal one. The starting circuit of the engine is pre-assembled for left-hand (looking from the shaft side) rotation, “with sparks from itself”. In this case, the return of the cutting force will tighten the nuts of the pulleys and disk; they will hold firmly to friction, dowels, cotter pins, etc. There will be no need for additional “inconvenient” technological fasteners.

Drawings of a cutting machine of lower power, but more accurate (suitable for working with diamond blades) are given in Fig. Electric motor 350-400 W 2800-3000 rpm.

Breakdown by position: 1 – electric motor; 2 – bed; 3 – protective casing of the working body (steel s2); 4 – working body (abrasive disc); 5 – belt drive protective casing (steel s2); 6 – V-belt A-1018; 7 – M8x14 screw; 8 – drive pulley (D 16); 9 – belt drive casing cover (steel s2); 10 – driven pulley (D 16); 11 – spacer sleeve (steel); 12 – washer (steel); 13 – feed handle; 14 – bolt M6x12; 15 – M5x10 screw; 16 – working shaft (steel); 17 – front cover of the bearing unit (D 16); 18 – rear cover of the bearing unit (D 16); 19 – bushing (steel); 20 – washer (steel); 21 – nut (steel); 22 – ball bearing No. 203; 23 – spindle body (steel); 24 – gear housing boss (steel); 25 – M6x8 screw; 26 – M8x16 screw; 27 – disc casing boss (steel); 28 – rocker console (steel); 20 – bolt M6x16; 30 – rocker arm hinge body (1/2” pipe, steel); 31 – hinge axis (steel); 32 – bushing (steel); 33 – washer; 34 – nut M10; 35 – electric motor mounting plate (steel), 36 – electric motor starting device housing (D 16).

Note: the spindle housings and rocker arm hinge are filled with CIATIM-221 lubricant before assembly.

The features of this design are, first, the absence of ball bearings in the rocker arm joint. This made it possible to simplify the manufacturing and assembly of the machine (the complex turning of its axis and its alignment are eliminated). Secondly, the long arm of the rocker arm is not a straight spine, but a console broken in plan. This makes the machine more compact and the working body more resistant to torsion along the axis of the pendulum. That is, in this machine you can safely load thin diamond discs that are sensitive to jamming and chipping. But rough work and such a machine will not withstand frequent transportation from place to place: lateral runout will appear in the pendulum hinge, which will negate all the worries and efforts to improve accuracy. In general, this is a machine for accurate work with fairly high-quality materials.

Note: in machines similar purpose“softer” motors from washing machines that are connected directly to the household electrical network are successfully used, see for example. video clip:

Video: metal cutting machine with washing motor. cars

The next machine (see figure) is even more specialized: it is a pendulum saw for wood. On the preparation of firewood in northern regions it (compared to a chainsaw) makes work much faster and easier. In a household with wood heating pays for itself in 1-2 seasons; at a sawmill or timber exchange, for cutting material into dimensional logs, even faster.

The design features are:

1. The motor power is reduced because wood is a rather soft material;
2. unpretentious to power supply. A single-phase motor 1.5 kW 220 V can be found on sale, and a voltage converter 12/24 V DC -> AC 220 V 50/60 Hz costs up to $30-40;
3. the rotation speed of the working body is optimized for a saw blade for wood;
4. since the probability of a saw jamming in wood is much higher than that of an abrasive in metal, the center of mass of the pendulum is shifted far back from the swing axis (hinge). To do this, a heavy engine is installed on the rear console of the rocker;
5. according to paragraph 4, the front arm of the rocker is also lengthened so that the operator does not have to apply excessive force to the feed lever;
6. there is no return spring - with such a swing of the pendulum's arms it is either useless, or it needs to be very tight and greatly complicate work;
7. due to point 6 and because special cleanliness and precision of the cut is not required, the pendulum hinge is a piece of pipe and a piece of a round king pin;
8. in connection with paragraphs. 4 and 5, the direction of rotation of the working body is changed to direct (sawdust away from you);
9. due to point 8, the fastening of the belt drive pulleys is keyed, and the saw blade is on the left thread;
10. There are much more sawdust from wood than from metal, and they are sticky. Therefore, the narrow protective casing “pocket” of the disk is replaced by a wide front visor (shown as a dotted line on the left in the figure);
11. again, due to point 4, the driving and driven pulleys are used with a parabolic profile of the stream bed. The V-belt in parabolic pulleys absorbs jerks well on small knots, but when the disk gets stuck in the wood, it slips, preventing an emergency situation from developing into an emergency;
12. When using this saw, you must observe additional safety precautions. In particular, you should not stand behind a running saw and lean over the feed lever, so as not to inadvertently get hit in the face with a rocker arm.

Note: The spindle of a pendulum saw for wood can be structurally identical to that described above (for a universal mobile machine), but the threads on its shanks and the nuts for it need left-handed threads.

About choosing a motor

In the design descriptions above, the mechanical power of the motors on the shaft P m is indicated. For asynchronous motors, its difference from the nameplate electrical power P e is significant, because their torque cannot vary widely. The selection of a suitable asynchronous electric motor for the designed “cut-off machine” is carried out as follows. way:

1. look at the nameplate or in the specification P e and cos φ (analogue of efficiency for AC electric motors);
2. determine the rated power on the shaft P n = P e cos φ;
3. if the motor is single-phase 220 V, consider P m = P n;
4. if a 3-phase 380 V motor is converted to a single-phase 220 V star connection, we consider P m = 0.707 P n;
5. the same, triangle, P m = 0.5P n.

An example of a reverse calculation. You need a 1.2 kW “mechanical” motor. Single-phase household power supply. Typical cos φ value for powers of this order 0.85. This means that we need to look for P n /cos φ = 1.2/0.85 = 1.4 kW. There are no single-phase ones with such power within reach, so we are looking for a 3-phase one with P n /0.707 = 2 kW with star-connected windings, or the same type with P n /0.5 = 2.8 kW, if the windings are connected triangle.

Note: video examples of the implementation of amateur cutting machines - universal “garage and utility” for a disc up to 350 mm:

Video: metal cutting machine with 350 mm disc

with an electronic speed controller (the engine power is taken to be excessive, since the adjustment is made by changing the operating frequency, when it decreases, the torque drops significantly):

Video: cutting machine with electric speed control

powerful, high-performance, complete with rotary table-vice:

Video: cutting machine 5.5 kW at 2880 rpm. with rotary yews

Bulgarian can do a lot

Including - to become the basis of a cutting machine for metal, wood and other cutting materials, because Replacing the cutting disc with any commercially available saw is a trifle. It’s not a trifle in this case - the imbalance of the single arms of the rocking chair (see below), so the angle grinder from the angle grinder will no longer be pendulum in the full sense. A two-arm rocker with a balancing weight is not the solution - the emergency rebound will have an unacceptably long delay at the beginning and too sharp at the end.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to provide drawings with explanations of ready-made homemade products of this kind - there are too many different angle grinders on sale. Therefore, we will focus on the most significant points. If you have at least roughly understood the drawings above, then you can design it yourself. And we will show you how to achieve success without having a lathe or even welding. Time of incarnation in metal? Half a day or a day if you have already done some things with your hands.

Structural diagram

The grinder is attached to the frame with a bolt in one of threaded holes for side handle. Cutting machines based on angle grinders are made mainly in horizontal and vertical patterns. In the first case, the body of the base instrument is attached along the rocking arm; in the second - across and up. The longitudinal design is good because it is easy to protect the grinder from turning during operation by fastening it to the body with a “noose” clamp. But the vertical scheme (see figure on the right) is better in all other respects: it is much more convenient to work, the short rigid arm of the rocker allows you to achieve “real pendulum” cutting quality with its very simple hinge (see below), and a weaker rebound spring is needed, which also ergonomic.

The apparent disadvantage of the vertical scheme is the possibility of turning the tool on the move, because The mounting bolt may become loose due to vibration. But in most grinders, next to the mounting hole of the handle, you can drill a couple of small blind holes (the possibility is determined by inspecting the disassembled gearbox. And the fixing pins can be screwed into the mounting plate without any problems. To avoid having to redo it, we proceed in this order:

• By inspecting the disassembled tool, we determine where the clamps can be placed. The depth of the holes for them needs 3-4 mm; the diameter is the same. There is no need to go deeper and wider; why weaken the gearbox housing in vain?
• We measure more precisely where the clamps will be relative to the threaded mounting hole, and draw a sketch.
• We mark holes in the mounting plate for the fixing pins. IN mirror image, do not forget! You can sketch a sketch on thin paper and place it on the plate with a pattern so that the contours of the mounting hole coincide.
• We drill pioneer holes for the clamps. Smaller for now, as long as a thinner scribe can fit through. The best option in this case is a gypsy needle or a shoe awl.
• We place a tool with a larger disk on the stove and, using a pair of bench squares, align it (the disk) strictly vertically. Carefully, so as not to disturb the installation, tighten the mounting bolt. It is better to perform this operation with a competent assistant.
• We mark through the holes in the plate on the gearbox housing where to drill holes for the clamps.
• We drill holes in the grinder, and in the slab we drill holes to size for the clamps and install them. You can use M3-M4 screws, screwed from the inside of the plate; then the holes for them need to be threaded.
• We put the tool in place and check the disk for verticality. A little gone - no big deal. You can file one or both fasteners on the side with a file until they are eccentric and tuck them in, adjusting the tool. In this case, the clamps are fixed (forced repetition) with paint, metal glue or cold welding.

Spring

The waste spring (return, rebound) is installed in any suitable place on a homemade cutting machine, see fig. below. Only 2 conditions need to be met: first, the initial feed force should be 10-12 N (1-1.2 kgf), selected by hand. This is more than in a pendulum machine, so it will not be as convenient to work. Secondly, if you press the tool idle to the end and sharply drop the handle, its rebound is unacceptable. In this sense, the designs on the left and right in Fig.

Hinge

The quality of a cut with a grinder is almost entirely determined by the swing of the tool in the vertical plane transverse to the disk and the lateral displacement along it. The design of the hinge (and part of the frame), almost completely eliminating both, is shown in the following. rice. The main materials are scraps of pipe, rod and balls from bearings D(8...15). A knot made “on the knee” is no less accurate and stable than complex “branded” ones. You only need to weld the corners of the fork frame, but if you bend it from a thick strip, then this will not be necessary.

Before assembly, any grease, even locomotive grease, is packed into the pipe cavity. Centering and eliminating play is done with side bolts, which are secured with internal locknuts, and those with paint/glue. The mainline is secured by welding before assembly; it can be attached with threads later.

What not to do

The most serious mistakes in the manufacture of homemade cutting machines based on angle grinders are, firstly, insufficiently rigid attachment of the tool to the rocker, for example. unbalanced relative to the point of application of the reverse cutting force (pos. A in the figure). The tool becomes warped during operation, the cut is difficult, it turns out to be beveled vertically and torn, and the disc wears out quickly.

Secondly, attaching the angle grinder to the protective casing (pos. B) is simply dangerous. And why, one might ask? For the sake of extra pointless work? There are also standard mounting holes designed for load, one of which is always free.

Since we are talking about nonsense, one cannot help but linger on the designs of beds and rocking chairs. Look at the trail. rice.:

The desire of the authors of these works to achieve their rigidity and stability is commendable. But it wouldn’t hurt to first learn at least the very basics of strength of materials, termekh and structural mechanics. And calculations based on them show: forks made of corrugated pipe from 25x25x1.5 with a width of up to 200 mm, a height of up to 150, and spines from the same pipe from 40x40x2 with a length of up to 350 mm (any angle grinder is laid lying down) is more than enough to obtain cutting accuracy better than 1 mm. It is quite enough for such delicate work as trimming the trim of interior doors at the corner. If the machine still “plays”, do not prop up the plywood shack with oak ridges (figuratively). Look for design flaws.

Note: For options for homemade frames for grinders for cutting machines, see the video:

Video: homemade stands for an angle grinder

Additional features

In addition to perpendicular cross cuts, 45-degree angle cuts are often required; rarely - at an arbitrary predetermined angle. Should I buy a rotary table with a corner divider? It will cost you a pretty penny, somewhere around $40, if it’s a good, durable one. A non-adjustable miter box for cutting with a hand saw under the machine is enough for a maximum of 4-5 workpieces.

The simplest solution is a table for a cutting machine with a lateral longitudinal stop and marks at fixed angles, pos. And in the figure:

Adjustment - by turning the table or machine and fixing it with clamps. A serious drawback is the long and tedious readjustment from corner to corner. It can be made easier by setting it once at each corner and accurately cutting grooves in the table with a disk. Then the adjustment comes down to installing the disk along the groove, but still - with continuous operation for 8 hours. up to an hour or more of shift time is wasted. A tubular rotary bed and a homemade table with a divider stop at an arbitrary angle (item B) are more difficult to make, but the loss of working time with them will not exceed that for the “rest” of the tool.

Sometimes, and not so rarely, on a generally transverse cutting machine you have to make longitudinal cuts of limited length. For example, narrow straight grooves and grooves in thin materials. Which is generally impossible with a circular saw, but unlikely with a router with a special table (quite complex and cumbersome). A cutting machine with a broach will help here - a working element that extends along the cutting path, see next. rice.:

Its design is in no way for beginners, so we will limit ourselves to its video description, see video:

Video: stand for an angle grinder with a broach

A different situation is much more common: you only need to cut perpendicularly, but quickly, a lot and exactly to size; There is simply no room for a “normal” cutting machine. For example, a craftsman cuts blanks for construction in a cramped utility block, which is also used as temporary housing. Or an individual entrepreneur sells cut-to-length lengths in a tent at an iron bazaar. Well, the craftsmen came up with an idea and for such cases they came up with a mini-cutting machine in the form of an attachment to a regular bench vice, see Fig..

Nowadays, there are a huge variety of different tools for cutting metal. Many of them are manual and have a large number of inconveniences. The rest of the tools are considered automated and have large dimensions or a large price category.

To combine business with pleasure, as well as convenience and price range, craftsmen created a disc cutting machine. Below we will look at everything related to this equipment.

The scope of application of this machine equipment extends to industrial applications and domestic use. Used for cutting various types of metal (steel, cast iron, copper, aluminum, etc.).

Since in everyday life there are a huge number of different metal objects that require minor repairs, this machine becomes extremely necessary. After all, lowering the cutter stand with the cutting disk once will be easier and faster than manually sawing with a hacksaw.

The dimensional characteristics of homemade equipment allow it to be placed under a canopy in the summer, and safely placed in the winter warm garage, or in the workshop.

Tip: To install the frame, it is extremely important to choose a smooth and durable place (concrete slab, thick corners, or concrete support legs of the frame). This is done in order to reduce the possibility of vibration to a minimum during operation.

In production, automated systems are mainly used, which are controlled by an operator via CNC. The goal is mass production of metal products, in the form of cutting pipes of given sizes and various sections, flat rolled metal and much more.

Below we will look at the criteria by which this machine equipment is distinguished.

Classification of cutting machines

All cutting machines are distinguished according to a huge number of criteria. We'll look at the most important ones. So, the main technological criteria:

By type of toolkit

The separation occurs directly on the tool that cuts the metal products. In turn, they are divided into the following subspecies:

Band saws

In this case it is used band-saw with teeth. The tape is made from high quality high speed steel. Due to the fact that the cutting tape is thin, there is a saving in material consumption due to the thin cut. Band machines are used in production.

Hacksaws

They are used in small industries, as well as in everyday life. Hacksaw tools can be hand-held (the well-known hacksaw for metal) or an electromechanical machine. In this case, the hacksaw blade is made from various metals(high speed steel, carbon steel, alloy steel, bimetallic steel). This type is quite easy to operate and is considered a convenient tool.

Disc machines

They belong to the category of indispensable tools. Used throughout the metalworking industry. Using such equipment, high-quality cutting of metal can be carried out even by an unqualified person. In addition to industry, this machine equipment is widely used in everyday life.

By number of cutting edges

Single head

The design has one cutting disc. This type of machine is low-productive of its kind and is capable of performing only one operation.

Double head

Their design uses two “heads” for attaching disks. In this case, one “head” is firmly fixed and motionless. The second has the ability to move in independence in the first. This equipment is considered a high-performance tool.

By type of saw blade feed

Front saw blade feed

The center of the disk moves in a horizontal plane.

Bottom feed

The center of the disk moves from bottom to top along a vertical plane.

Pendulum feed

The center of the cutting disc moves like an arc, from top to bottom.

Vertical feed

The center of the disk moves along a horizontal plane from top to bottom.

By main type

Cut-off saws

This tool is used to cut dimensional pieces of rolled metal. Well suited for small-scale production.

Abrasive - cutting

When working with such equipment, abrasive wheels are used. High-quality cutting of metal residues (burrs) is carried out. Cutting material into blanks, sawing profile metal at the required angle from 0 to 45 degrees.

Correctly-cutting

Such equipment processes metal produced and supplied on coils (reinforcing steel, metal strip, wire, rods with a profile section). This equipment is equipped with the correct mechanism and automatic unwinding of metal from the reel. The twisted wire enters this mechanism, is straightened over the entire plane and fed into a special receiver for further processing.

Tip: Depending on the material to be cut, you need to select suitable cutting discs. The discs must meet the technical specifications.

Disc machine device

Frame

Or metal structure, playing the role of the base of the unit.

Pendulum unit

This is a kind of metal part made of a metal profile, which looks like the letter “T”. The movable side is mounted on a bracket located on the frame. The movement of the pendulum is carried out by means of bearings, and the return to its original position is carried out by a flexible part (a strong harness or a small spring).

Pipe clamp

The so-called vice, mounted on the bed. They allow you to press the workpiece to give it a stationary position.

Pendulum unit axis

This axis is used to move the disk.

Electrical engine

The heart of the unit. It is he who puts the whole mechanism into action. An asynchronous motor is used for this equipment.

Actuator

A box containing electronics that is connected to the electrical network. On this box there are buttons to turn it on and off.

Wheel protective cover

Steel protection that prevents fragments from the disk from falling directly into the person working on the unit.

Belt guard

Located where the belt makes its movement. This casing is designed to protect a working person from being hit by a belt if it breaks.

Pendulum assembly handle

That part with the help of which pressure is exerted by the cutting disk on the workpiece.

Ground bolt

As with all machines, there is a bolt on the body of the unit that is used for grounding.

Abrasive wheel

Direct cutting disc consisting of various materials.

Sling brackets

(4 units)

bed

This is the area where the main unit of the unit is located.

Adjustable stop

Due to this, the required size of the future product is fixed.

Tip: If your budget is quite modest, then you can use scrap materials to create parts of the unit. If your budget allows, then it is advisable to purchase all the components in the store. This will improve performance and service life.

Manufacturing of a disc cutting machine

Any invention will require certain parts, whether purchased elements or homemade parts. To create a cut-off brainchild you will need the following:

• Metal corner with dimensions No. 24.
• Metal channel No. 10.
• Movable shaft.
• Tubes for making a handle.
• Welding machine.
• Bearings for the pendulum mechanism.
• Electric drive.
• Box for storing electronics.
• On/off toggle switch.
• Starting circuit.
• Winding.
• Electric drill.
• Fastening elements (bolts, screws).

Let's look at the progress of assembling all the equipment:

1. First of all, with a grinder, blanks are cut into a frame with dimensions of 400x600x1200 mm.
2. Using welding, the frame is assembled from prepared parts.
3. A channel is welded over the entire frame. It will give additional strength to the machine and serve as a guide.
4. Several vertical supports are screwed onto the channel.
5. Next, the next frame is installed, on which the engine and shaft will be located. The frame dimensions should be 400x600 mm.
6. A plate intended for the engine is attached to the frame. The best electric motor for these purposes is an asynchronous motor. Its power should be from 1.5 to 3 kW. After installing the engine, it is necessary to connect it to a three-phase network.
7. The shaft, flanges, supports with a pulley are made on a lathe.
8. Next, the bearings and pulley are installed.
9. The box in which the circuit is located is installed in the lower part of the frame.
10. A shaft with a sleeve is inserted between the vertical supports. Shaft diameter 12 mm. The gap between the bushing and the shaft should be kept to a minimum.
11. On both sides of the bushing, limiters made from pieces of channel are welded.
12. An electric motor and a cutting mechanism are installed on a long support beam and on pieces of channel.
13. The final step is to install the belt that connects the shaft and the motor.

Based on the above assembly steps, we can conclude that it will be much cheaper to assemble such a unit with your own hands. Moreover, during the assembly process, you yourself adjust the entire mechanism, as they say, for yourself.

The button, which is intended for emergency situations, is connected directly, and the engine is connected through a box with a circuit and an automatic machine.

Tip: If you have assembled such a structure with your own hands at least once, you can easily repair such units. This is because you will know the entire mechanism of such a machine by heart.

Manufacturing a cutting machine based on a grinder

In addition to the classic variation of the cutting machine

There is also a simplified version of the machine using a grinder (angle grinder). In this case, a frame is made into which the second frame is attached to the sleeve. It is on the second frame that the angle grinder is secured using metal fasteners.

In order for the grinder to return to its original position, it is necessary to secure the frame and grinder with a tight rubber band or spring. The frame itself is mounted on a prepared bed or on a large and heavy table. The heaviness of the table will ensure a minimum of vibration. If a frame is being prepared, then it must be mounted on a foundation prepared in advance. Such an invention can serve as a good tool in a home workshop or as an excellent device for cutting metal.

General reviews about the machine

If you look for reviews on the Internet about this unit, you will only find positive reviews. Indeed, such an invention is very convenient in its own way. With its help, you don’t need to suffer with the grinder in your hands, in a bent state. If you choose a cutting tool for certain jobs, then only a disc cutting machine.

Video reviews

Video review of the disc cutting machine:

Video review of a cutting machine using a grinder instead of a disk:

Video review of the assembly homemade machine:

Video review of the cutting machine:

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And yet, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, during welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place begins to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.

I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.

But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years, unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...

And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a stationary cutting machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.

What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Cutting a water pipe DN32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.

So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. IN purchased options, designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder at three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with a tight fit of the frame to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:

I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:

And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:

At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:

After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:

Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used wide masking tape as a marking:

After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:

Put one inside the other:

I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:

And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:

Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, I burned the outer pipe with an electrode so as to weld it with the inner one:

Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:

Next, I assembled and welded all fastening structure carriages:

I made the rods on which the angle grinder will be attached to the carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. I calculated their optimal length experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:

All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:

At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:

Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:

I attached the entire structure to this sheet:

I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.

After that, I welded vertical posts from the same pipe in the corners, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.

At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes short in length, and, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, they give incredible rigidity! ...

I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.

So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:

After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)

By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, I boiled, melted and cleaned the heads of all the mounting bolts on the reverse side to get a smooth circular table:

For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I was just “fallen” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))

But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.

After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.

I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.

Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.

I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:

I welded it.

And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:

Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:

I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.

Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:

The handwheel handle was made from furniture bolt, putting a metal tube on it.

I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:

When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.

Next, I started making the protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.

First I made a template out of cardboard.

From this article you can learn how to make a metal cutting machine with your own hands at home using the most simple materials. All stages of creating structures based on a cutting disc or grinder are described here in detail: preparation of materials and tools, calculation formulas, detailed step-by-step instructions, as well as related information with useful tips.

A do-it-yourself metal cutting machine will allow you to obtain equipment that is ideally suited to the owner’s needs

Disc cutting machines are tools whose design is based on a special platform or frame made of metal. The machine itself is equipped with parts that ensure reliable fixation of the material in a certain position at the required angle during the cutting process.

A disk made of high-speed steel is used as a cutting element in such structures. It is also called carbide. A wheel coated with an abrasive material can also be used for cutting metal. The cutting element is driven by an electric motor with a belt or gear drive.

Note! In low-power versions of the tool, it is possible to use a cutting element mounted directly on the shaft of an electric motor. In other cases, using the disc in this way can be dangerous.

In disk machines, there are three different feeds of the cutting component:

• lower;
• pendulum;
• frontal.

Depending on the number of cutting elements, machines are:

• single-head - only one cutting disk is included in the device package, so if it is necessary to change the operation, the cutting edge is readjusted in accordance with the new task;
• double-head - the design makes it possible to work with two tools at once, thereby increasing efficiency. In such machines, one head is in a fixed position and remains stable, while the second head can move. Double-head designs can carry out work automatically.

Making a disc cutting machine for metal with your own hands: procedure

When manufacturing a machine designed to work with metal, the actions are performed in the following order:

1. Protective covers are being prepared that will be installed on the drive belt, as well as the cutting disc.
2. The motor is installed. The drive belt acts as a connecting part between the cutting element shaft and the engine.
3. A shaft is made on which the drive pulley will be attached, and a cutting disc will be installed. The unit is subject to assembly and subsequent installation on the pendulum. In this case, the movable upper part of the structure plays the role of a pendulum, where the cutting element and motor are located.
4. A shaft is made to mount the pendulum.
5. The frame for installing the machine is being made. The spark arrester and the workpiece will be attached to it.
6. The pendulum is installed on the frame.
7. Electrical wiring is being installed.
8. A test run of the tool and adjustment of the equipment is carried out.

A disk made of high-speed steel or a circle coated with an abrasive material is used as a cutting element.

Calculation of a pulley for a homemade metal cutting machine

The calculation of the diameter of the pulleys is carried out taking into account the rotational speed of the disk and other parameters. Assuming that the motor power is at least 300 W, the rotational speed of the disk will be at least 3000 rpm, and its diameter will be 40 cm.

Helpful advice! During the process of cutting metal, the nut in the disk fixation area may come loose. To avoid this, it is recommended to place the drive pulleys on the left side, and the disk itself on the shaft on the right.

Typically, discs are marked by the manufacturer, who marks the product with the maximum permissible rotational speed value. In this case, the indicator is 4400 rpm. Therefore, it is possible to select any speed within the range of 3000-4400 rpm.

Data for calculations:

• rotational speed of the motor – 1500 rpm;
• the diameter of the pulley intended for installation on the shaft is 6.5 cm;
• rotational speed of the disk – 3000 rpm.

The calculation is performed in the following sequence:

1. Set the length of the shaft around the perimeter. To do this, multiply the number π, which equals 3.14, by the diameter size: 3.14 x 6.5 = 20.41 cm (shaft length around the perimeter).
2. The resulting value is multiplied by the required number of revolutions: 20.41 x 3000 rpm. = 61230 cm/min.
3. The result must be divided by the number of engine revolutions: 61230 cm/min/1500 rpm. = 40.82 cm (perimeter motor pulley length).
4. The resulting value is divided by the number π: 40.82 cm/3.14 = 13 cm ( required size pulley).

Calculating the length of the belt for a homemade metal cutting machine with your own hands

To perform these calculations you will need the following data:

• drive pulley parameters (radius);
• the distance separating the center points of the pulleys;
• parameters of the driven pulley (radius).

Having 2 pulleys with dimensional parameters of 13 cm and 6.5 cm, you can make the necessary calculations. Since the distance between the centers of these elements can be changed (since it is necessary to bring the belt into a state of tension), a segment 50 cm long will be taken as an example.

First pulley (circumference):

3.14 (π number) x 3.25 cm = 10.20 cm

Second pulley (circumference):

3.14 (π number) x 6.5 cm = 20.41 cm

Drive belt (required length):

20.41 cm + 10.20 cm + 50cm x 2 = 13.06 cm

Helpful advice! To get a more accurate result, you should make calculations with the maximum and minimum distance between the central points of the pulleys and select the average value.

To make your own machine design for working with metal, you should prepare the necessary tools.

The required set of tools and materials includes:

• welding machine;
• metal corner (steel);
• channel and chain;
• button to turn on/off;
• bearings;
• shaft and electric motor;
• electric drill;
• sheet steel to create a working surface;
• box for placing the electrical components of the machine.

Principles of creating a machine for cutting metal

The manufacturing scheme for a homemade machine is subject to certain principles; they must be taken into account before getting down to business:

• It is very important to choose the right gear and install it. The preservation of torque and its correct transmission from the engine to the cutting element (disc) depend on this component;
• availability must be provided. This tool makes work more comfortable and also increases the degree of safety;

• selection of the optimal cutting angle. The acceptable range is 45-90°. In most cases, experts prefer cutting at right angles;
• The diameter of the cutting disc is selected taking into account what materials the master will work with on this machine in the future. The larger the diameter of the cutting element, the easier it will be to cut thick metal;
• When designing and drawing up drawings, indicators such as the dimensions of the future machine and its weight must be taken into account. These values ​​are directly influenced by the materials from which the equipment will be made. The layout of the parts also matters.

Note! When drawing up drawings, special attention should be paid to vibration supports that are installed on the legs.

Assembling a metal frame for a cutting machine

After all the tools have been prepared and the drawings have been selected, you can proceed directly to the process of creating the machine. Using, it is necessary to make the frame part of the structure. In accordance with the drawings, which you can draw up yourself or find on the Internet, frame elements are cut out. All of them are connected to each other by welding. First you need to check the size suitability.

A channel is welded to the top of the frame - it will become a guide element and will serve as the basis for further installation of the cutting component on the machine. This channel will become a kind of connecting link between the electric motor and the cutting element. After this, vertically located racks are secured to it using bolts.

It will be necessary to weld the structure of another frame. Dimensional parameters are selected individually, taking into account the dimensions of the electric motor and its features. When choosing an electric motor for a machine, it is better to pay attention to asynchronous type modifications. This type equipment is characterized by increased reliability and durability.

There is one subtlety when choosing a motor. The more powerful the engine, the smoother the drive will move.

Assembling the electrical components for the machine

Installation of equipment involves mounting and connecting the working shaft to the electric motor of the machine. The way in which this can be done is not fundamental. If the drawings contain instructions for performing this procedure, it is better to follow them, since the correct operation and reliability of the tool depends on the quality of installation.

Helpful advice! Some parts that you cannot make yourself can be ordered from a turner. These include flanges for fixation, as well as a pulley.

To fix the motor on a metal frame, it is better to use bolted connection with nuts. It is recommended to place a box near the engine where the switch and electrical circuit are located, as well as the remote control for controlling the tool.

It is better to place the channel, intended for fixing the cutting disc, on a spring. You need to make sure that when you release it, it returns to its original place. To secure the spring, you can take bolts and a clamp.

The electrical component is the most important part of the tool. Be sure to include in the design a starting circuit, as well as a button for emergency shutdown of the machine. It is necessary to achieve such an arrangement of parts in which the electric motor will be connected to electricity through an automatic machine and gearbox, and not directly. A three-way starter will be enough to turn on and fully start the engine. It will also power the shutdown button.

Finally, it is worth taking care of the presence of protective devices that will protect a person during the work process. To do this, you need to make a protective casing. It will prevent sparks from entering and fine particles metal in the eyes.

Making a cutting machine from a grinder with your own hands: drawings, technology

The designs of cutting machines made on the basis of an angle grinder are of two types (depending on the placement of the angle grinder).

In the first case, you get a frame on which the angle grinder is very rigidly fixed. Above work surface Only the disk rises, for which there is a special slot in the table. This machine operates on the principle of a circular saw.

Note! When working with such a machine, you have to move the workpiece yourself, which is why the accuracy of the work is lost. In addition, this process can be unsafe, so drawings with a hidden type of placement of an angle grinder are not in high demand.

The second option assumes that the workpiece remains stationary and the cutting element moves. Due to the fact that the grinding machine is located on top of the tabletop, cutting parts does not require much effort.

List of tools and materials for a do-it-yourself grinder cutting machine

When making a tool yourself, it should be taken into account that the accuracy with which it will work largely depends on the stability of the structure. For this reason, the thickness of materials for manufacturing is associated not so much with the requirements for the strength of the machine body, but with the need to ensure the proper level of rigidity.

List of materials:

• profiled pipe with a square cross-section (2.5x2.5x0.25 cm);
• sheet steel (sheet thickness 0.4-0.5 cm);
• profiled pipe with a rectangular cross-section (4x2x0.25 cm);
• ball bearings – 2 pcs. (No. 203, 204 or 202);
• calibrated rod no more than 10 cm (thickness is selected taking into account the hole on the inner race of the bearing);
• metal rod (diameter 0.8-1 cm);
• fasteners (bolts with nuts, M or M8 thread);
• metal tire (2x0.4 cm).

List of tools:

• angle grinder;
• electric drill (can be replaced with a drilling machine);
• kit ;
• a set of dies designed for forming metal threads;
• welding machine;
• open-end wrenches.

Choosing a suitable cutting tool for a homemade cutting machine from an angle grinder

An angle grinder is the main component of a machine for working with metal. Experts do not recommend using a small tool for these purposes, which has a power of no more than 500-600 W. In such grinders cutting discs have a diameter of no more than 12.5 cm. These restrictions are due to the fact that a cutting element with a large diameter is considered universal and very reliable - it is able to cope with cutting thick workpieces.

Helpful advice! Instead of welding, threaded connections can be used to secure parts, but they are less reliable and will not provide the required level of strength.

1. Preparation and production of parts for the frame.
2. Arrangement of a hinge joint on a pendulum arm.
3. Manufacturing a U-shaped bracket with holes for mounting a grinding machine gearbox.
4. Making a U-shaped clamp and strip that will fix the angle grinder body to the pendulum.
5. Installation of the U-shaped clamp and U-shaped bracket to cutting tool: by welding or threaded connection, all these parts are attached to the console part.
6. Pressing bearings into supports.
7. Double-sided pressing of bearing units onto the shaft. To increase the strength of the connection, you can tin the axle with a thin layer of tin using a soldering iron.
8. Fastening the pendulum with supporting node parts to the edge of the platform (distance from the edge 0.5-0.6 cm) using a welding machine.
9. Installation of the grinder and protective casing.
10. Installation of the return spring.

After the structure is assembled, it is necessary to perform a test run and check the correct operation of the equipment, as well as the placement of all parts on it. At the final stage, the groove is adjusted to fit the cutting element, and supports are installed to secure the workpieces.

When finishing is completed, the body of the machine must be covered with a thin layer of enamel. Painting will protect the instrument from damage that rust can cause.