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Cover the battery with plasterboard. How to cover pipes and radiators with plasterboard How to cover a radiator with plasterboard

Modern design interior design offers many solutions that will make the house more beautiful and comfortable, but, unfortunately, they are familiar to everyone cast iron batteries have a hard time fitting into current trends, so the problem arises: how to cover a heating radiator with plasterboard?

Hiding an unsightly radiator with a plasterboard screen is convenient and economical way give the room a modern look.

Is it possible to reduce heat loss with this method of masking heating units? How to cover the battery with plasterboard so that it does not affect the room temperature?

Selecting the type of construction and marking features

There are two main ways to hide a heating unit behind drywall: build a box around the radiator or hide it behind a decorative wall.

The choice of one or another technique depends on the floor plan and the location of each specific radiator.

The first method, a box, is relevant if the battery is on the surface flat wall. Installing the box with your own hands is easy and quick - this method is economical, since the radiator itself is closed directly, which means that the space in the room suffers less.

The design of the box assumes that its edges will protrude beyond the battery by approximately 10 - 20 centimeters on each side. The specific parameters of the box depend on the size of the radiator.

Important note: the front wall of the structure must be at least 10 centimeters from the front side of the battery, otherwise installing a removable screen on the front panel will not be possible.

The box comes in two types: it can either hang on the wall (under the box there will be a distance to the floor) or stand on the floor. The choice of design depends only on design solution in a specific interior.

After determining the design of the box, you can begin marking the wall.

If the box must hang on the wall, then first put it aside right size from the bottom edge of the radiator and draw a line along the level, indicating the bottom of the structure.

Then, using a corner, we draw side walls box at a distance from the edges of the battery. We lay out identical segments on these lines that extend beyond the upper border of the radiator and connect them with a horizontal line. All lines must be checked with a level.

If the box will stand on the floor, then you need to start from the top border of the structure, and then lay down the side walls from it.

Plus, it will be necessary to mark the parameters of the base of the box on the floor so that the front border protrudes beyond the front surface of the battery.

The layout of many apartments is designed in such a way that the heating units under the windows are installed in niches. In this case, it is worth covering the battery using a second type of structure, an alternative wall.

However, you may want to completely change your interior and get rid of the appearance of batteries altogether. Then it will be necessary to build plasterboard wall to the entire height and width of the room.

This method of hiding pipes with plasterboard will be very expensive in terms of material consumption, but it is the only way to completely hide the radiator from view.

You need to start preparing the frame by marking vertical lines for the metal profile. It is imperative to attach the profile posts in the corners of the wall. Along the entire length of the wall, the pitch of the racks should be from 60 to 100 centimeters.

To avoid additional metal profiles, it is recommended to place two vertical posts on the sides of the radiator being sewn up at a distance of 10 - 12 centimeters from the edge of the battery.

The vertical lines should be continued in projection onto the floor and ceiling, the depth of the top and base should be equal and in centimeters be the depth of the radiator plus 10 centimeters.

The final marking stage is to draw two horizontal lines 10 centimeters above and below the radiator boundaries.

Frame installation, structure installation and finishing work

Before covering the heating radiators with drywall, it is necessary to equip the frame of the structure. To install the frame with your own hands, channel metal profiles are used, the width of which is 60 - 70 millimeters.

First you should fix the profiles that will be adjacent to the wall. The technology is as follows: the profile is placed against the marked wall and a screwdriver is used to mark the wall for future fastenings, which should be at a distance of 15 - 25 centimeters from each other.

The basting is deepened with a puncher, based on the size of the dowels used for fastening. The dowels themselves are inserted into the resulting holes, the profile is placed against the wall and secured with screws.

When all the profiles are fixed to the wall, they begin to create the volume of the frame. To do this, the metal profile is cut into the required lengths, the resulting parts of the profile are cut at both edges by 4-5 centimeters at the bend.

The middle part is folded down, the outer parts are cut off based on the width of the profile. The profile sections are fixed to the vertical drains along their edges at right angles.

If you need to sew up the entire wall along its height, then such volumetric elements need to be fixed in increments of 50 - 60 centimeters along the entire length vertical racks.

Lastly, another row of vertical posts is attached, which will form the basis of the alternative wall, and to which the drywall will be attached.

An important condition: the frame of the structure designed to cover the pipeline must be strong and stable, and in no case should it wobble.

Sheets of drywall are attached to the mounted frame using screws, the distance between which should be 10 - 15 centimeters.

The fasteners must be screwed in carefully so as not to damage the material.

After covering the frame with plasterboard, a “window” remains in the structure, through which the radiator can be seen. A removable screen is mounted in it, ensuring the flow of hot air from the battery into the room.

The inner part of such a screen should be fixed in the frame even before working with plasterboard sheets, and the outer part should be fixed after the main work on installing the structure for covering the heating radiator with plasterboard.

Preparing the rough surface for finishing materials takes place using the following technology.

First, using serpyanka and putty, seal the seams between the plasterboard sheets and the screws with which the plasterboard was attached to the frame.

Then the entire structure of the box or wall is puttied. After drying, the surface is rubbed with fine sandpaper. Everything is ready for finishing: painting or wallpapering.

Radiators that are not suitable for modern renovations should not spoil the interior design. With the help of simple installation technologies, it is not difficult to change it yourself appearance apartments, hiding heating pipes and radiators behind drywall.

The main thing in this matter is to accurately make the necessary calculations and carefully translate your project into reality.

Not all interior styles will suit the design of modern bimetallic or aluminum battery. Even worse decorative properties at cast iron radiators MS-140 series. To eliminate this discrepancy, decorative screens and boxes are used. And a plasterboard battery box is one of the popular options for solving this problem.

Is it possible to make a battery box out of drywall?

A screen in the immediate vicinity of the radiator reduces heat removal from its surface, and this impairs the efficiency of the heating device. But not in the case of a plasterboard box for heating radiators. It is enough to give an example of the design electric convectors, in which the heating element is located in closed case with two rows of holes - at the bottom for cold air to enter, at the top for warm air to escape. This device increases the speed of convection due to the fact that the box acts as an air duct.

The only drawback of the method is that the battery works for heating both as a convector and as a radiator, and the screen will absorb some infrared radiation. To compensate for these losses, holes are cut out of plasterboard in the front wall of the box for the battery or facial finishing a factory decorative screen-grid is installed, and the wall behind the radiator is finished with a material with a reflective surface (for example, foil foam).

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Materials and tools

To cover heating radiators with plasterboard you need following materials and tools:

• Standard sheet of moisture-resistant plasterboard
• Galvanized metal guides and rack profiles
• Perforated corner
• Serpyanka mesh
• Dowels or anchors
• Primer and putty
• Hammer and drill
• Construction knife and metal scissors
• Screwdriver or screwdrivers
• Level, ruler, corner, pencil
• Sandpaper
• Brushes and spatulas

Selecting a box sketch

Before you cover the battery with plasterboard, you need to choose the type of construction. There are three cladding options.

• A hanging screen that is hung on hook brackets attached to the wall. The advantage is that you can remove it at any time and gain access to the battery. Disadvantage - the design of the box frame must be rigid and self-supporting, and given the weight and fragility of the plasterboard sheet, this is difficult to implement in practice

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• Installed screen. The method involves finishing the radiator niche with plasterboard. The easiest option to implement is if the battery does not extend beyond the boundaries of the niche and the screen is part of the wall cladding. During the overhaul This technique allows us to comprehensively solve the problem of “how to cover heating radiators and pipes with plasterboard”

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• Floor box. The design is a cabinet rigidly fixed to the wall and floor, covered with plasterboard, the upper plane of which can serve as a window sill. This option is most popular when it is necessary to close the battery without carrying out complex repair work. But if in the second method, in order to sew up a niche for a heating radiator from plasterboard, you only need to make (or buy) a front panel, then in this case it is necessary to develop a design sketch and detail with dimensions

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Main requirements for box sizes:

• Height - the top panel must be at least 50 mm above the surface of the radiator (standard for the location of the battery relative to the window sill)
• Length - along the front, the radiator should not occupy more than 75% of this linear size of the box (standard for the position of the battery in the niche under the window)
• Depth - the front panel of the box should be 10 cm away from the battery.

How to sheathe the radiator under the window with plasterboard - with an overhanging window sill or with a plasterboard top panel and slots for warm air - depends on the characteristics of the window and glass.
Usually the window sill is installed so that it does not overlap the battery and hangs over it by no more than 2/3 of its width. It will be more aesthetically pleasing if the box fits completely in width under the window sill, but in this case it will have to be replaced. And it is possible that such a decision will lead to the appearance of frost and ice on the window - warm air the radiator will not blow on the glass, and it will freeze. This will not happen if there are triple-glazed windows or energy-efficient glass installed in them.
Is it necessary to somehow cover the walls behind the battery with plasterboard if it is closed with a box? There is no such need if the rest of the wall was not leveled and plasterboard was not sewn up.

Marking

IN regulatory documents there are no strict requirements for placing the battery under the window - it is important that its edge does not extend beyond the border of the opening on the side of the riser pipe. But when installing it, they try to make sure that it is located symmetrically relative to the window. Likewise, the installation of plasterboard boxes under the battery must maintain symmetry with respect to the vertical axis of the window. Therefore, first you need to find and mark on the wall and floor the center of the window opening, from which the marking should be made.

If the battery is not installed under the window, then its center will be the axis of symmetry of the box.
The marking sequence is as follows:

1. Mark a line perpendicular to the wall on the floor in the center of the opening or battery;
2. From this line the depth of the frame is measured without taking into account the sheathing;
3. From the resulting point, draw a line parallel to the wall;
4. On this line from the center, half the length of the box is laid in each direction without taking into account the lining and finishing;
5. From the obtained points, draw two perpendicular lines to the wall, and from them, using a level, draw two lines on the wall to the window sill.

As a result, the projection of the installation location of the box should be shown on the floor and wall behind the radiator.

Frame installation

The installation of the frame begins with the installation of UD 27×28 profiles inside all marking lines on the floor and wall. The fastening step is 15-20 cm with an even distribution of points along all lines. The choice of type of fastener depends on the base materials: wood screws, dowels for concrete or butterfly anchors for hollow building blocks.

A special tape is placed between the profiles and the wall, which serves as protection against the spread of structural noise.

The rest of the frame is mounted from the CW 60×27 rack profile:

1. Install two corner front posts along the height of the box;
2. They are connected by short horizontal jumpers with vertical guide profiles on the wall;
3. Connect both racks at the top with a horizontal long jumper;
4. To ensure structural rigidity, side jumpers are added in the middle of the structure.
5. The number and direction of additional stiffeners in the front part of the box are chosen according to its size and type of screen.

After this you can sheathe the frame.

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Frame covering

First, they sheathe a niche for the battery using plasterboard:

1. Cut to size and sew up the side walls, cutting out holes for the radiator pipes if necessary;
2. If the window sill is not part of the frame, then cut out the top panel, which covers the frame from above;
3. Panels are cut out from gypsum plasterboard to cover part of the façade around the screen and these areas are sewn up.

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Then close the corners perforated corner, reinforce the joints with sickle tape, prime, putty and clean the surface. The result should be a niche with a battery, which, after finishing, is covered with a decorative lattice screen. Thus, the problem of “how to cover heating radiators with plasterboard” can be solved independently.

Old cast iron radiators can hardly be called a model of aesthetics, so many apartment owners want to hide them, fitting them into the interior as much as possible. Good decision considered a plasterboard battery box that you can install without the involvement of professional builders.

Drywall completely covers the radiators, it is easy to process and quite cheap material. But working with it requires certain skills. We hope this article will shed light on unclear points and help you successfully solve the problem.

Pros and cons of plasterboard structures

Our compatriots have been covering batteries with plasterboard for a long time, so there are many useful developments in this area. Why is this material so popular?

Here are the main advantages of drywall:

• Environmental friendliness ( harmful substances do not stand out in rooms, and the fire resistance of the box is very high).
• Multivariate (in construction stores there is a wide range of varieties of drywall).
• Budget-friendly (the material is very cheap).
• Easy to install (any adult man can handle the task).
• There is room for imagination (you can make designs of any degree of complexity).

Before you start covering the battery with plasterboard, you should find out the whole truth about the disadvantages of such a solution. You will encounter some things during the installation process, others will appear during the operation of the box.

So, the cons:

• Fragility (the material crumbles easily, so you need to work with it carefully).
• The need for additional finishing (after installation, arm yourself with a spatula).
• Low moisture resistance (water causes drywall to warp, swell and deform).
• Storage features (if you place the sheet vertically, you will find over time that it begins to bend).

Preparatory work and marking

Have you decided to sew up the heating device yourself? Any finishing work require serious preparation.

Let's start with the selection of tools:

• building level;
• metal knife;
• drill (a screwdriver attachment is welcome);
• pliers;
• perforator;
• dowels and screws;
• angle ruler;
• pencil;
• roulette.

In addition, you will need the plasterboard sheets themselves, putty and U-shaped metal profiles. Then you need to select a design sketch. You can build a cabinet under heating device(standing option), or make the box hang above the floor. Make sure the battery is in good shape. If the old paint has peeled off, it must be completely torn off and the device repainted.

Marking for the box

After waiting for the paint to dry, start marking. You will have to take accurate measurements of the battery (errors within a millimeter are allowed).

Use the following tools for this:

• roulette;
• building level;
• ruler-square;
• pencil.

The width and depth of the structure depend on the size of the radiator. The minimum margin along the edges should not exceed 10 centimeters. Narrow window sills need to be dismantled, since the gap between them and the battery must be at least 3 centimeters.

Drawing markings is divided into three stages:

• Drawing horizontal lines. You will draw a line along the hanging level. If you plan to install a “standing” box, draw three lines at once (depth and leading edge).
• Applying vertical markings. Attach the square to the bottom edge and draw a perpendicular. Use a level to mark the required size.
• Marking connection. The lines should meet above the battery. The unifying function is carried out by the horizontal segment.

Make sure that in front of you is a square (or rectangle) whose vertical lines correspond to a plumb line. Double check the accuracy of the markings - you will not be able to correct any defects later.

Frame installation

Before covering the battery with plasterboard, it is necessary to mount metal frame. You have profiles, dowels and screws that will be used to fasten future design. Arm yourself with metal scissors, a hammer drill, a screwdriver and pliers. First you need to cut and secure the load-bearing elements; they are mounted on the wall as follows:

• The U-shaped profile is pressed against the wall on either side.
• A small mark is made (use a screwdriver).
• Holes are drilled for fasteners.
• The dowels are inserted into the holes.
• The profile is pressed to the desired location.
• The screws are screwed in.

The holes in the profile are marked in increments of 15-25 centimeters. Make the markings in advance, otherwise you will experience a number of inconveniences during installation. Now attach all the prepared guides to the wall. Use tin snips at corner joints. The next stage is the formation of the depth of the box.

Procedure:

• Cut the profile pieces to the required length.
• Make five-centimeter cuts along the edges of the fold.
• Fold the middle down.
• Cut off the sides, following the channel flange as a guide.
• Attach the pieces to the edges of the vertical rails at right angles (make sure the pieces are oriented toward the inside of the room).
• Connect the fragments with long profiles.

It's time to check the quality of the work. If the structure is wobbly, you did something wrong. For example, short elements were “sorted” or a mistake was made when installing fasteners. When installing long fasteners, it is better to strengthen the frame with short pieces (4-5 pieces are enough), then you will like the result.

Tighten the screws carefully, otherwise you will damage the profile. A kind of window is left in the frame for installing a removable screen. This way you will ensure a constant flow of heat into the apartment.

Working with drywall

Labor-intensive work is left behind. Now we are hiding our battery under drywall, and for this we need to cut rectangles of appropriate sizes.

Sequence of actions:

• Attach plasterboard sheet to the profile frame.
• Apply markings to the surface of the sheet and mark the locations of the cuts.
• Take a utility knife and carefully cut the elements according to the size of the box.
• Lean the prepared fragments against “your” parts of the structure.
• Secure the plasterboard rectangles with screws.

The drywall that covers the battery is very fragile, so the knife must be sharp. On linear meter drywall there should be 3-4 self-tapping screws. The caps are recessed a millimeter so that they do not tear the cardboard covering.

An important point: the room must receive heat. The problem can be solved in two ways, the simplest of which is drilling ventilation holes in sheets (their recommended diameter ranges from 5 centimeters). A more aesthetic solution would be to install a removable grille. If you decide to equip the front wall with a plastic screen, please be patient and have additional fasteners. Plastic sometimes cracks, so handle it carefully.

Final finishing

Now you know how to cover a battery with plasterboard. In order for the box to acquire a finished look, it must be properly finished.

Algorithm of actions:

• The joints between sheets of drywall are carefully sealed. You should get smooth surface, ready for further processing. First, you will need to apply a sickle mesh to the joints. After this, the surface is puttied.
• The places where the fasteners are installed are processed in a similar way.
• Want to strengthen corners and sharpen lines? Place perforated corners on the drywall.
• The box is puttied.
• After drying, the walls are leveled.
• The final stage is sanding (fine-grained sandpaper is used for this).

Having coped with finishing, you can start decorating your box. The finishing technique will depend on the features of the interior and the overall color scheme.

Other solutions

You can cover radiators in a room not only with sheets of drywall. Some apartment owners install standard boxes from this material, and change the front panel to something more original.

Here are the most typical solutions:

• Radiator grille (plastic or metal). Among the advantages similar designs It is worth noting good heat transfer and constant access to the battery. The main disadvantage is the trivial design.

• Built-in niche. The pipes are covered with casing, and the battery itself is hidden behind a folding screen. The main advantages are the easy accessibility of the unit in case of breakdown and minimal heat losses. Good option for the kitchen where saving space is important.
• Wooden lattice wall. Harmonizes with classic interiors, allows you to quickly get to the battery in emergency situation. Cons: cumbersome, low functionality.

The technique of installing a plasterboard box is quite simple; anyone can master it in a short time. Don't let radiator pipes ruin your interior.

Concept modern renovation in housing implies hiding everyone engineering communications. But how to cover heating radiators and pipes with plasterboard, because according to the housing code it is forbidden for them to be hidden in the walls, and the efficiency of the whole heating system will immediately decrease.

There are not many options for hiding batteries, because... According to the housing code, they cannot be hidden in the walls.

The solution is to use drywall in combination with decorative grilles or other design elements.

Features of this finish

In order to hide the radiators of the heating system, a material such as plasterboard is ideal. Its versatility allows it to produce almost any shape, and the surface itself is very convenient for further finishing with various decorative materials. The safety margin is also sufficient, if you do not create too much load on the structure. And of course, the pricing policy of materials plays an important role; the price is affordable for any financial opportunity.

The most in a simple way Such finishing can be done by assembling the structure in the form of a box. This option will require a minimum of resource costs and a little time.

The second method is more labor-intensive; it is to create something like a niche for each of the radiators. To do this, the walls are finished with the design of slopes for the battery. So, how to cover a battery with plasterboard yourself?

What is needed for this

As in any other method, the batteries, closed under drywall, are located inside frame structure. The list of materials and tools is as follows:

1. Drywall. Only moisture-resistant, which can withstand high humidity without much damage.
2. Fasteners. The same screws and dowels that are used when mounting any other frame under gypsum boards: dowel-nails, fleas, 25 mm wood screws.
3. Crab mounts and straight hangers.
4. In case of installation wooden frame need mounting brackets.
5. Hammer drill, screwdriver.
6. Tape measure, level, marking cord.
7. Tool for cutting metal: hacksaw, scissors or grinder.
8. Metal profile: UD and CD (guides and racks, respectively).
9. If the frame is made of wood, then the timber is 40x40 or 50x50 millimeters.
10. Serpyanka, plaster corner, gypsum putty, spatulas, for finishing designs.

The list of certain materials is selected individually depending on the features of the plan.

Box installation

You can create a box-shaped structure to cover the battery with plasterboard in a few steps. First you need to prepare the heating radiators themselves, clean old paint and repaint, as well as check the functioning of the system itself. After all, when everything is closed, access to the heating system will be significantly limited.

Marking

The box is installed directly on the floor, and the entire construction of the structure begins from there. The floor surface must be durable.

• Using a level, mark the place where the guide profile will pass.
• The distance from the radiator should be minimal and not exceed 100 - 120 millimeters.
• Also, to add rigidity to the structure, marks are made on the wall where direct hangers will need to be installed.
• Mark a line where the top and side guides will be located.

One of the most important points In installing a plasterboard box, there is a drawing and marking.

Frame assembly

To assemble the structure you will need metal profile UD markings and, if necessary, rackmount - CD, as well as fastening material- screws and dowels.

• The UD guide profile is placed on the mark and firmly secured to the dowels. The fastener must “tightly” secure the profile, since it performs the function of the entire base of the frame.
• It is assembled from the same material corner design in the form of two connected letters “P”. The connection is ensured by small self-tapping screws.
• The assembled corner structures are mounted into the guide onto the marks.
• The same UD profile structure is attached to the upper part as on the corners.
• Guides are also attached to the wall with dowels.
• The entire structure is connected to each other by transverse jumpers made of a CD profile, the connection points are rigidly fixed to the “fleas”.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The resulting structure is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard, cut required sizes. Drywall is cut using a utility knife according to previously made marks. To do this, cut through the cardboard on both sides and break off the desired part. Irregularities along the edges are smoothed out with a plane or the same knife.

The covering is done in this way: a sheet is placed on the resulting frame and a self-tapping screw is screwed in using a screwdriver, slightly pressing the head into the surface.

Subsequently, the corners of the box are reinforced with plaster corners, and the surface itself is puttied and finished in accordance with the plans.

The opening itself is closed with decorative grilles.

Installation of a wooden frame for the box

Do not forget about such material as wood. To assemble such a frame, you can use 40×40 millimeter timber. This structure is assembled as follows:

• The lower part is assembled in the form of a rectangle. Connections can be made using a tongue-and-groove pattern.
• The resulting base is rigidly fixed to the floor with dowels or anchors.
• Racks are installed in the corners using mounting angles.
• The top can be assembled using the same principle as the bottom. Upper part It is also attached to the corners.

Received wooden structure treated with an antiseptic or simply painted and covered with plasterboard.

Niche

This method of covering the battery with plasterboard is more labor-intensive, since it requires mounting the frame on the entire wall. But if during repairs it is carried out full finishing GCR premises, then a niche is an excellent option.

Marking

Markings are carried out along the entire wall. Marks are made on the floor and ceiling where the guide profile will be mounted, also on the surface load-bearing walls mark where the racks of the frame structure and additional fastenings in the form of suspensions will go.

Frame assembly and gypsum board sheathing

For this purpose, the technology of assembling a frame for covering walls with plasterboard is used.

• Guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.
• Racks are inserted into them and connected to hangers and guides.
• The niche is assembled from a rack CD profile. Two adjacent ones are used as the main load-bearing posts.
• The same profile is attached to the supporting rails parallel to the floor surface. In order to connect them, stiffening ribs are cut off at the ends of the profile. The connection itself is made using press washers.
• If necessary, install slats to create slopes for the niche. In this case, guides are installed on the wall to the right and left of the radiator, which are connected to the racks of the main frame by crossbars.

Sheathing with plasterboard is done using the same technology as the main walls. They are glued to the corners of the niches plaster corners. And the slopes are puttied and finished with decorative materials.

The same principle is observed when assembling a wooden frame. Unless the individual elements are connected to each other by mounting angles.

The resulting niche can be closed using decorative grilles or other intended methods.

There is nothing complicated about the question of how to hide a heating radiator behind drywall. The availability of the material, as well as the simplicity of the installation technique, make it possible to do this without much effort and expense.

Arriving home again and looking around the room, my eyes stopped at the ugly cast-iron ribs of the battery, which had already peeled off and instead white acquired a dirty gray tint.

I decided not to put off this problem for long and began to think about how to do it.

Someone might think that making screens for radiators yourself is extra hassle. After all, you can buy a decorative screensaver and thus solve the problem. But not always finished goods suitable for your battery. I had two hanging in my house for a long time metal screen, and still one stuck out to the side, since the size was not quite suitable for the radiators.

Making screens for batteries is not such a difficult matter; the design is quite simple. You can install it yourself, it will be inexpensive. Most suitable material- This is drywall. It is easy to use and easy to cut and cut. In addition, all the necessary connecting elements are available for sale in any hardware store. You also won't need complex construction tools, usually they are available in the house.

Preparation of material

Since drywall is still a material that is susceptible to drying out under the influence of temperature, it must first be prepared.

Preparation will consist of treating the drywall with PVA glue on both sides. This will secure the material and prevent it from cracking and drying out.

It would be better to paint such a prepared surface or glue wallpaper on it.

Frame formation

Finishing

After the box is assembled, all seams are sealed, the corners are strengthened using corners, mesh and putty. Putty is applied, then the corner is attached, the mesh is attached, then putty again. After drying, the surface is rubbed with sandpaper. The final stage Your screen will be painted or wallpapered.

In some apartments, it may be more expedient not to install a screen, but to completely cover the heating radiator along with the pipes with a plasterboard false wall.

Look at the video how to install such a false wall

You don’t have to do it yourself. Installing a screen on a battery can also be done to order, and it can only be yours.

Perhaps a purchased screen will not fit well into your interior, but a plasterboard screen will form a single whole.