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How to properly hang wallpaper in an apartment. How to glue wallpaper correctly: paper, vinyl, non-woven. Types and characteristics

One of the most popular types of room decoration is wallpapering. But in order for the result to please you, you need to know how to glue wallpaper correctly. There are a sufficient number of nuances that affect the quality of the finish.

Preparatory stage

First, everything in the room that can be removed is removed, including door frames and baseboards, if possible. They also remove sockets and switches, closing the boxes with wires with plugs - plastic or wooden.

Turn off electrical outlets

When working with electricity, we de-energize the room and do not turn it on until we are finished. It is advisable to carry out all work, including wallpapering, with the power turned off. The work is “wet”, and water or glue can get on the wires and short out. If the wiring is done according to all the rules and there are protective circuit breakers, this is not a big deal. They'll just turn off the power and that's it.

If the wiring is still done in the old way, it can be dangerous. The worst part is that in this case there is often no way to turn off the power in a separate room. Only in the entire apartment or, at best, in half of it. Then the solution is to remove the power wires from the sockets and switches (with the power off, of course) and carefully insulate the ends, then hiding them under plugs. Then you will have to unwind them and put them back in place, but it will be safe.

Lighting during work is temporary - extension cords are pulled from other rooms and portable lamps are turned on. Once you have dealt with electricity, you can move on.

Sealing irregularities

Here you will first have to assess the condition of the walls. First you need to remove all the nails and screws, remove chips and repair cracks. Then examine the results. If the walls are more or less even, there are only small defects, you can get by with occasional leveling. Only cracks, dents and chips are repaired. You can cover them up finishing putty. Just before leveling, completely clean the wall of dust and pieces of wallpaper, and then cover it with a primer (with a wall roller and a brush in the corners).

If the wall has been “treated” with a hammer drill, you cannot do without full putty of the entire wall. Mostly today they use gypsum putty. First, apply a layer of primary or starting. It has a coarser grain and the layer can be up to 3-5 mm. This composition is used to level out the main unevenness, trying to achieve a smooth surface. After drying, they pass through a special mesh, removing any unevenness or sagging that may exist.

After being used finishing putty. It is very plastic and is applied in a thin layer - up to 1-2 mm. After this, the wall becomes smooth (after the irregularities have been smoothed out with a mesh, only with a smaller mesh).

Primer of walls

The second layer of primer is applied after puttying. It forms a film on the surface that reduces the absorption of the glue and also improves adhesion. For wallpapering, you can use a thinner wallpaper glue as a primer. Each pack has a table indicating the amount of water for gluing and priming. We dilute the glue in the required proportion, wait for it to be ready (also on the package) and cover the walls with the composition. The priming technique is the same: first go over the corners with a brush, then with a roller on smooth surfaces.

In the video, for some reason, the use of primary putty is called plaster, but otherwise the sequence of actions is presented correctly.

Rules for gluing

When wallpapering there are several rules that must be followed. The technique varies depending on the type of wallpaper, as does the glue, which is necessary for a quality result. the difference is mainly in when and where to apply the glue. You don't have to guess. Everything is on the insert, which is included on each roll of wallpaper. There it is graphically depicted, and in some it is written, which part should be coated with glue: only the wall or only the wallpaper, or maybe both at once.

But some things remain the same. For example, applying a starting strip.

Where to start

In reality, the starting location is not that important. It is important that the first strip is glued strictly vertically. Therefore, the choice is yours.

If the room has a perfectly designed corner: smooth and exactly vertical, you can start from there. You can start from a door with a perfectly aligned jamb. If there is nothing like that, draw a guideline for yourself. Take a building level, mark a point on the wall and draw an exact vertical line through it. Inexpensive building levels household grade, which we usually use for repairs, sometimes give a significant error. And since it is important for us to stick the first strip strictly vertically, check the accuracy of the line using a plumb line. He never lies, pointing straight down. If everything is fine, you will align the edge of the strip along this line.

If you still haven’t decided where to start gluing wallpaper and this is your first experience in this area, start with the wall that is least visible. For example, the one along which there is a closet. The first couple of pages will be difficult for you, but then you will better understand what’s what and there will be fewer flaws.

How to glue wallpaper on a wall

If glue, at the request of the manufacturers, is applied to the cut fragment, the smeared strip is folded so that the coated side is inside. To do this, fold the edges towards the middle, then fold them several more times. The folds are not pressed. Let them remain round. This is necessary so that all layers are saturated and the canvas fits well on the wall and also sticks without bubbles.

If you need to apply glue to the wall, coat an area slightly larger than the width of the wallpaper. The area under the ceiling, in the corner and near the floor is coated with a brush. Then the rules are general.

Take the cut strip and climb up the stepladder. Place the top edge a few centimeters on the ceiling, then align one of the edges along the drawn “start” line. Since wallpaper today is glued end-to-end, it doesn’t matter which edge.

Strictly attaching the side edge to the line, moving from this line to the other edge, glue the wallpaper in the ceiling area. Then, gradually moving down, you go down a little lower.

Extra centimeters on the ceiling are cut off. It is more convenient to do this with a paper knife and a large spatula. Press the paper well against the corner by running your hand. Then apply a spatula. Run a knife blade along its edge.

Trimming under the ceiling and near the baseboard

When gluing the canvases, movements are made from the center of the strip to the side and slightly downward, expelling the trapped air to the edges. Previously, this was done with a rag, but it works better and faster with a roller with an elastic nozzle (it is usually yellow). There are practically no bubbles when working with it. But if the wallpaper is structural, with an embossed pattern, you can crumple it with a roller. Then take a wallpaper brush. It is wide and flat, with hard pile.

Wallpaper brush for quick pasting

Having reached the place where the strip is not yet glued, unroll the rest tightly and proceed according to the same pattern. First, you expose the edge, then use a roller or rag to expel the air, achieving a flat surface.

The second strip is glued in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the canvas already on the wall will serve as a guide for gluing the edge. That’s why it’s important to glue it evenly, otherwise everyone else will also be mowed.

Secrets of pasting corners

The most difficult part to glue wallpaper correctly is in the corners. But this is only until you know the secret. You can try to do it simply at first. Wrap one of the parts onto the adjacent wall by 1-2 cm, and cut the second at the corner.

It’s not difficult to do, this method looks good. But on some wallpapers this stripe is very visible. For such a case, there is another way. Glue the canvases on both sides of the corner so that they wrap at least a little on the other side (2-3 cm is enough). Press well so that they fit exactly. to the walls and corner.

Then take a special cutter or large spatula. Press it in the corner, cut the wallpaper along its edge sharp knife. It is necessary to cut both sheets at the same time, so considerable effort may be required. To ensure a continuous cut, do not tear off the knife. Having stopped, move the spatula, which you rest against the blade and then continue the cut.

Having cut everything off, remove both cut strips and join the remaining strips in the corner. If the wallpaper was pressed well before trimming, the match is perfect, without any discrepancies.

How to glue wallpaper on outside corners? Almost in the same ways. In the first case, one of the strips is wrapped around the corner by one or two centimeters (for thicker wallpapers, 2 cm is better, for thin ones, 1 cm is enough). The second strip is glued strictly along the corner. If this overlap is visible (usually on non-woven wallpaper), you will need to cut along the entire strip. In this case, we wrap more and cut vertically using the same spatula and knife. We remove the cut and glue the joint.

Meter-long wallpaper in the corners is glued in the same way as narrower ones. It happens that a narrow strip is needed in a corner, and the rest is cut off. If the wallpaper is without a pattern, it can be used somewhere, at least in another corner. With patterned canvases, sometimes it is also possible to attach them somewhere, but this is more difficult to do. That’s why they take patterned ones with a decent supply: just for such cases.

How to glue vinyl wallpaper on paper, how to remove imperfect corners in this video.

How to glue wallpaper near doors and windows

If the door or window is flush with the plane of the wall, problems usually do not arise. Wallpaper is cut lengthwise door frame or along the edge of the platbands. The canvas is cut at an angle of about 45° to the corner of the casing or frame. The cut parts are wrapped along the opening, bent and then cut off with scissors or a knife. It’s smoother and faster using a knife and spatula.

How to glue near the door

The option that causes more difficulties is when it is necessary to cover the slope of a door or window. When using paper wallpaper, the principle is again simple: glue the strip onto the slope, extending it 1 cm onto the wall. We glue a piece on top exactly along the cut of the window opening.

But this method will not work with wallpaper on non-woven fabric: the “overlap” is too visible. In this case, the strip is cut along the window opening with a small margin. Another fragment is glued on top with an overlap, cutting them exactly along the cut of the window opening. The glued piece is wrapped inside, onto the slope. Then they join as before.

It's difficult to explain in words. It’s more accessible in video. By the way, it also talks about wallpaper design arched openings there is a plot.

How to make joints invisible

Care must be taken to ensure that the joints of the canvases are invisible during gluing. You need to connect the canvases so that there is no gap between them, but also so that they do not overlap one another even by a millimeter. A perfect match must be achieved.

Since we, alas, rarely see perfectly smooth walls, it turns out that the seam either creeps in a little or diverges. Your task is to move the canvas so that it becomes perfect and invisible. You can move the canvases with your hands - they can slightly stretch and contract. Due to this, you achieve the required match. If the resulting defect is too large and nothing can be achieved by shifting, the strip is peeled off to this place and, having corrected it as necessary, is glued again. Sometimes, if the seam is sticking out a little, rolling it with a special tapered roller can help.

With this technique, it turns out that first the edge is glued, which is joined, and then, from it, they begin to smooth out the rest of the surface of the canvas. If you have inspected the seam and are satisfied with the result, take a clean rag and wipe it off any excess glue that may have come out during all these actions.

To learn how to glue meter-long vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing and how to make the joint invisible, watch the video.

Eliminating shortcomings

If there is a lack of experience, it may happen that bubbles appear on the walls after or during drying. You can remove them with simple steps. Take a large syringe, fill it with glue, pierce the bubble and inject some glue into it. Vinyl wallpaper, acrylic, paper - upper part however, it is unimportant. The actions vary depending on the basis. If the wallpaper is paper-based, wait five to seven minutes; if it is non-woven, act immediately.

How to remove bubbles from wallpaper

Seams come apart quite often. Wallpaper may peel along the thread or baseboard. There are two ways to glue them. Use a brush and the remaining glue or buy a special one for seams. It comes in a tube and is applied precisely. And again, the procedure depends on the base. Having wetted the paper, wait a while, then glue it, making sure the edges match.

Often you have to make repairs with limited funds, time and labor. In such cases, attempts are made to save on everything. The possibility of sticking wallpaper over old ones looks especially attractive. There is no need to rub down the walls or waste time removing the previous coating; you just need to attach a new layer on top. But is it possible to put wallpaper on wallpaper and still get a high-quality result?

If we consider the question fundamentally, then yes. You can glue wallpaper onto wallpaper, but with a number of restrictions:

1. If they stick well to the wall. It is especially worth checking all the joints and corners of the room, where there is most likely to be a break from the wall.
2. When ideal smooth surface. The corrugated one will not be able to become a homogeneous base, the adhesion area will be reduced.
3. The wall itself must be unambiguously intact. Sometimes whole pieces of plaster are held together only by old paper and, if it gets wet, both will come off under the weight.
4. It is better to glue dark ones with a large pattern. Then the previous layer will not be visible outward, and unevenness and roughness will be more reliably hidden behind the large details of the new canvas.

There are a number of requirements for gluing a new canvas over the old one

In addition, you need to take into account the types of wallpaper: both those that should serve as the basis, and new ones that should lie tightly on the wall.

Paper

They are the ones you can work with the most boldly again. In Soviet times, it was not difficult to find entire “puff pastries” of all colors. Today, these building materials have become denser; you can’t stick too many layers - they will fall off. But gluing paper wallpaper is quite permissible. As a base, they smooth out roughness and fit tightly to the wall. As a second layer, they get wet well, are not heavy, stick easily and reliably, and therefore last a relatively long time. The only problem is to choose a pattern darker than the previous one, since a thin canvas may turn out to be translucent and let bright colors through.

Paper wallpapers are the thinnest, so they are easy to install over old ones.

You can also glue regular photo wallpaper onto paper wallpaper. The main thing is the absence of roughness. They are the ones who become very noticeable and spoil appearance premises.

Before attaching paper sheets to old ones, you must check to see if there are any bubbles or if they are coming off in some places. If found, clean it so that moisture from the glue does not aggravate the situation and spoil the new repair.

Vinyl

It is strictly forbidden to glue vinyl wallpaper onto vinyl or use it as a base for any other type. Their surface is not only corrugated, but also oilcloth. The glue will not hold well, they will simply fall off.

If wallpaper cannot be glued to vinyl wallpaper, then vice versa it is possible if the base is paper version. They will hold on, but:

1. Not for long. A heavy layer can pull off a lighter paper layer and tear it. It is necessary that the base holds very tightly to the wall.
2. In the future, the appearance of pathological microflora is possible, since the oilcloth of the second layer does not allow moisture to pass out, and the base is saturated with glue (moisture) more than putty can do.

So that vinyl wallpaper can delight you with its beauty for a long time, it is better to remove the old coating

Pasting vinyl wallpaper without removing the previous ones is a possible step, but risky. Instead of gluing new vinyl wallpaper onto old ones, it is better to level the walls, tear off the old wallpaper and apply high-quality, expensive vinyl for a long time.

Non-woven

How can you glue new wallpaper onto old ones if most of them are transparent? The bottom layer will be completely visible through the new pattern and will ruin all your efforts. Even opaque samples should be used only if the wall is perfectly prepared - the applied patterns perfectly highlight all the irregularities, bends and roughness. Although they can stick to a paper base, since they are synthetic paper in structure, it is strictly not recommended to glue them to old ones.

Walls need to be carefully prepared for non-woven coverings

Especially not on non-woven fabric. The surface is heavily corrugated, covered with a film, it is impossible to achieve a positive result.

Fiberglass

Since the fiberglass itself requires subsequent plaster, install it on old layer unreasonable. No paper can withstand a layer of wet plaster. On the contrary - an excellent option, but after all necessary work. Fiberglass actually represents a replacement for the reinforcing layer of plaster, simplifying leveling, strengthening, and improving insulation. It won’t be able to replace wallpaper either; it will simply become a base for painting if covered with a high-quality primer.

Fiberglass has its own purpose in repairs

There is no need to glue glass wallpaper onto paper wallpaper. Their main advantage is environmental friendliness, complete absence of fungus under top layer. Applying them to wet paper and spreading mold means losing the important advantage of high-quality building material. In addition, you should not reduce the durability of new wallpaper. After all, glass wallpaper consists of the smallest strands of glass, withstands moisture, does not scratch or tear, and is excellent for painting.

Liquid

They are not intended for application to other surface coatings. The good thing is that the final putty can be carried out less carefully. They themselves perform this function perfectly, being both putty and beautiful decoration for walls.

Liquid wallpaper gives enormous scope for independent creativity

It is convenient to glue wallpaper onto liquid wallpaper. By their very existence they guarantee the absence of unevenness and roughness (if laid according to the right technologies, naturally), and the cellulose will absorb the glue and hold the new layer tightly. The main thing is to choose more dark tone, especially if color drawings were previously made. Otherwise they will show through.

Penoplex

The new generation of polystyrene foam can be called penoplex, so it cannot be laid on an old layer that has not been removed. The technology recommends laying a film under it, which will lead to moisture retention in the paper covering and the appearance of fungus.

Penoplex is a self-sufficient version of st. new finishes

Wallpaper can be applied to penoplex, but only after preparatory work has been carried out. The material is fragile and must be reinforced with a top layer of putty. Subsequently, normal actions are taken.

Insulation materials containing polystyrene foam are best used on external walls, since a small part harmful substances contained there.

Cork

This type of wall decoration is good for everyone. It is durable, looks great, is environmentally friendly, saves heat, has fire-fighting properties and so on. Gluing cork wallpaper is a pleasure itself, since its bottom layer is similar to paper. This cork backing allows you to securely mount them on the wall, even if there are old paper ones underneath.

Cork is an environmentally friendly and pleasant-looking covering for the walls of any room.

Nothing can be applied to such a coating. Apart from cheap ones, not covered with wax and quickly deteriorating, cork wallpapers owe their outer layer to waxes and varnishes. Their presence guarantees durability, protecting against moisture, strengthening the soft natural substance. Naturally, sticking anything onto varnish or wax is unrealistic.

For painting

Gluing wallpaper onto painted wallpaper is the same as trying to attach it to paint. They simply won't stick to paint.

If you plan to paint the coating, you should clean the surface before doing so. One tone, small patterns - all this will expressively emphasize any unevenness. The exception is if before this they decided to stick paper ones on top of the excellent final putty, which is very rare. Painted wallpaper will not hold up if you apply many layers of paint. Therefore, it is not worth gluing wallpaper onto painted wallpaper, or vice versa.

Finishing for painting is a relatively new word in design

Other cases

Ceiling materials are the most demanding. A small pattern will outline any bend; a heavy weight can fall off at any moment. Therefore, you can glue wallpaper to the ceiling only after bringing the surface to perfect condition. Naturally, by tearing off the old coatings.

There is no need to glue photo wallpaper onto old ceiling wallpaper. In the evening or in poor daylight, each joint will be visible. You can put wallpaper on newspapers if you have concerns about the ancient surface. They are thin, absorb moisture well and blend reliably with the ceiling.

It is difficult to glue photo wallpaper correctly, it is better to call a professional.

You can’t stick anything to washable ones, even if they are cheap and get wet from moisture. Anyway, they have a film on top that will prevent the glue from saturating the bottom layer.

It is better to glue self-adhesive wallpaper on a flat surface without old layers, since they do not have a lot of glue applied to them, which allows them to be pulled out or soaked and slightly compressed during the drying process. Even if they put paper or vinyl on an adhesive base.

What problems may arise with the new coating?

If we systematize the main ones, we get:

1. It is not advisable to glue photo wallpaper onto wallpaper due to the appearance of joints, irregularities, and roughness.
2. If there are dark or bright designs underneath, some of them may show through the lighter tones.
3. You cannot apply new ones to old ones if there are defects in their layer - peeling, bubbles, etc. In such cases, it is necessary to remove the old wallpaper at least in such places. If there are many defects, it is better to remove everything.
4. Even a thin paper layer will not withstand heavy coatings. If you apply many layers of paint or paste the ceiling over the old one, the repair will not last long.

Quick pasting can later lead to repeated work or poor quality repairs.

How to properly glue wallpaper over old ones

If the decision to glue wallpaper onto wallpaper is nevertheless made, you must adhere to simple rules which will help solve some of the problems:

1. The base should be held tightly. There are no uneven areas or areas of peeling from the wall.
2. The bottom layer can only be paper with a smooth surface. Anything else will be an unsuitable coating.
3. The top picture is darker than the bottom.
4. Wallpapering is done between the joints of the previous layer in order to hold its parts together.
5. The adhesive is applied in an even layer to prevent the appearance of bubbles or distortion of the adhesive coating.

Wallpaper glue

For high-quality and durable gluing, you need to choose an adhesive in accordance with the following criteria:

• weight and coating material;
• features of the base;
• humidity level;
• room temperature.

There are universal adhesives that are suitable for all types of wallpaper, and special ones. Most materials are glued universally, only for the mixture you need to take different proportions depending on the weight of the wallpaper and absorbency. However, when choosing which glue to glue vinyl wallpaper with, it is better to take a special one, for example “Super-Vinyl”, which contains antifungal components.

Many manufacturers that produce wall coverings also produce adhesives that are optimally suited for them. This is the correct way to glue wallpaper.

Materials and tools

You don't need a lot of materials or technical equipment to hang wallpaper on old wallpaper. This is the most economical option in terms of time and preparatory work. A spatula is sufficient to check the base fabric. They are used to seal them problem areas in the plaster, if any were found. It's a good idea to have some putty with you to level the walls in such places. In addition, you need:

• wide brushes for applying glue, some coatings require a roller, then this is indicated on the package;
• a roller that expels air and ensures a tight fit of the canvases;
• oilcloth – coating for lubrication;
• soft cloth to remove possible excess glue at the joints;
• tape measure for measuring walls near doors and windows, with protrusions and bevels;
• stationery knife for cutting rolls;
• the wallpaper itself and the glue suitable for it.

Preparatory work

You can start gluing only after the walls are completely cleared of poorly adhering islands, the cracks are worn out, and the putty has dried. If there are air bubbles, you can try to remove them with a hot iron (only through gauze). In order to increase the adhesion of the base to the wall, a deep penetration primer is used, which is used to impregnate the entire surface. Once it has dried, you can start gluing it.

Gluing technology

Depending on the type of canvas, the adhesive is applied only to the wall or to the wall and the corresponding section of wallpaper. When cutting, you need to take into account the flow of the pattern, achieving complete coincidence between the canvases. The cut parts should not be thrown away - they can be used near doorways, heating batteries and other things.

How to glue correctly - step-by-step instructions

To paste wallpaper onto wallpaper, you need to distribute the canvases so that the joints fall in the middle of the old canvases. You should start gluing from the ceiling down, gradually laying the cut on it permanent place. Then, with light movements of the roller, remove air bubbles and excess glue. Wipe the latter with a soft cloth.

Ideally, you need to strengthen one sheet and wait a day to see if the bottom layer falls off. Only after this continue work.

It should occur at a stable temperature of 15-25 degrees, without drafts, so windows and doors must be tightly closed and air conditioners turned off. They can only be used after the glue has dried.

Such wall finishing, despite the measures taken, will still remain less durable in comparison with gluing on finishing putty.

Pros and cons of the solution

It is possible to glue wallpaper onto wallpaper, but the disadvantages of quick pasting are obvious. There is a possibility that the renovation will have to be redone in just a few years, and beautiful, modern materials may look unattractive due to unevenness or the appearance of bulging parts. In addition, the risk of fungal growth increases.

In fact, old layers can be easily removed from the wall. For this there is special tool- “wallpaper tiger”, which easily removes the previous coating, leaving the plaster intact. Prime modern materials fast. Therefore, wallpapering does not save much time. An apartment or house requires a more attentive attitude towards it. Unless repairs at the dacha, which you want to finish in a day, allow you to use the accelerated development of events.

Reliability cannot be rushed. If there is the slightest opportunity, you need to use it and carry out repairs according to all the rules. Then the smooth walls will delight you with their impeccable pattern for many years.

First, before renovation, you need to carefully think through everything, decide on the design and interior, for example, it is important to choose the right new wallpaper and produce preparatory work. The most important thing is to be patient. If you have a budget limit, then it is possible to hang wallpaper yourself without additional costs. How to do this correctly, you can find out by studying this presented to your attention detailed method. All you need is patience, accuracy, minimum set tools and knowledge of some points that will be described below. We will try to answer in detail how to properly hang wallpaper with your own hands and without bubbles :-)

Preparing the walls

In many ways, the quality of wallpapering depends on the original purpose of the room and the customer’s requirements, if the repair is not being done for one’s own use. So, if the room will be used for auxiliary purposes, and there are no quality requirements at all, then old technologies can be used here. Having partially torn off the old wallpaper, I anointed the wall and the sheet, and glued it on. But if the renovation is being done in a cultural space or for yourself, then your own conscience will not allow you to hang wallpaper anyhow. Then you need to resort to the help of professionals, hire workers, etc. But if you don’t have extra money, then it’s entirely possible to do wallpapering yourself. The first step is to prepare the grounds.

The quality depends on the initial surface finishing works. If the wall is uneven, then these unevenness will be clearly visible on the wallpaper. This should be taken into account.

To properly hang vinyl wallpaper, the first thing you need to do is: This can be done with plaster, putty, etc. After leveling, the surface is recommended. You don’t have to do this if the wallpaper is light. For example, paper ones. But today fiberglass, non-woven or vinyl are increasingly used. They, as a rule, belong to the class of heavy wallpaper, so they require a reliable and very durable base. Plus, during subsequent repairs there will be no problems such as chipping of the putty in layers when removing old wallpaper.

If the wallpaper is light, then instead of primer you can use the same wallpaper glue. Simply by first smearing it on the wall and drying it.

In order to hang high-quality wallpaper for painting with your own hands, especially for fiberglass, fiberglass or non-woven wallpaper, you need a clean and smooth surface without stains or protrusions. After all, even after applying several layers of paint, these spots will still appear. Therefore, the surface must be 100% putty. At the same time, she acquires ideal white, becoming an excellent springboard for further work.

So, the surface is prepared and soaked with plenty of soil. We will further understand how to hang high-quality wallpaper with your own hands.

Self-gluing methods

Throughout the history of mankind, various options wallpapering. The choice, of course, of a specific method depends on the availability of a particular tool. Consider the most effective way, when even one master can handle this work. But for him successful work The following tools will be required:

1. A stationery or mounting knife with sets of blades. They must be purchased at the rate of 1 package per 1 room.
2. A ruler, it is better to use a flexible one in a plastic casing. They were specially designed to perform such work.
3. Level. One of the most important tools in the arsenal of any master. In early technologies, a plumb line was often used, but due to the inconvenience of using it, it was no longer used. The level was still used for horizontal elements, so why not use it for vertical ones as well.
4. Pencil.
5. A sponge or a piece of clean gauze or any other non-dyeable fabric.
6. Bucket for glue.
7. Medium pile glue roller.
8. A smooth, narrow rubber roller for rolling joints.
9. A wide, smooth roller for leveling wallpaper and releasing air from under it.
10. A wallpaper brush if you are pasting delicate materials.
11. Roulette.
12. Often experienced craftsmen A cone-shaped roller is used for more efficient leveling of wallpaper.

So, having found all necessary tool and having purchased the required amount of wallpaper, you can get down to business. To hang wallpaper beautifully, you need to correctly calculate the number of wallpapers. This can be done using special tables based on the fact that with a ceiling height of 2.5 m, one roll produces 4 sheets of canvas without selecting a pattern. Correctly calculating the amount of wallpaper will help.

This moment plays a big role, since there may be a shortage of 1 roll at the end of the entire work. And the remaining pieces for gluing sections of walls above windows and doors will be unsuitable.

How to calculate the required amount of wallpaper?

It's actually quite simple. It is necessary to measure the parameters of the walls of the room being repaired to determine their area. Next, subtract from it the area occupied by doors and windows. Plus add some reserve. And if the wallpaper has a pattern, then it is better to conventionally consider 1 tube – 3 sheets. The width of the tubes may vary and is indicated on the packaging, as well as the length.

Counting the number of wallpapers

To ensure that the technology for gluing wallpaper is followed, and the canvases do not come off after a year, you need to read in the instructions what kind of glue to use. At the same time, on its packaging it will also be written what types of wallpaper it is intended for and how it is applied. This is an important and decisive moment, so you should read the recommendations and instructions.

It is necessary to remember, if you are too lazy to read the instructions, that 1 package of glue is diluted in 1 bucket of water (10 l). At the same time, it must be cold, and when adding glue it must be stirred continuously and intensively. This will allow it to swell well and prevent lumps from forming.

Wallpapering procedure

Wallpapering is not something complicated, but you still need to follow certain recommendations. Wallpapering stages:

How to cover corners

3 d wallpaper

Wall decoration with wallpaper different types Today it is one of the most popular design moves. This technology for decorating a room makes it possible to combine ornaments, colors, textures, and also place material on the walls in various variations. Everyone wants their home to be as comfortable and unique as possible. To create a pleasant atmosphere in the room, a variety of design tricks. This also includes wallpapering of two types. Before you do, you should decide exactly what you want the room to look like after the renovation is completed, visually or on paper by combining the textures and colors of the wallpaper. In addition to this, you need to decide on the functions and characteristics of the room, think in detail about the options for wallpapering two types, taking into account the dimensions of the room and the features of its layout. There are many ways to combine wall finishes. Today we will look at several universal variations. But, before that, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the rules for an effective and competent combination of wallpaper.

Rules for proper combination

Neutral, muted colors go perfectly with rich, “concentrated” colors.

1. Pasting walls with wallpaper of two types implies successful combination abstractions with geometric shapes and textured surfaces with floral designs.
2. Wallpapers of the same quality, which differ in shades and textures, look very good.
3. There will be no problems with the choice of edging and beautiful joining of the canvases if the wallpaper strips have the same thickness.
4. The combination of different wallpapers should speak about the functional purpose of the room, look with the overall style of the living space and have “echoes” in the interior.
5. If you plan to decorate a room with a panel of wallpaper with a rich color scheme, then you should “dilute” it with material of the same tone.

Pasting walls with two types of wallpaper

So, how to glue two types of wallpaper? What is the best way to place them on the walls? Let's look at a few universal options:

• Vertical placement of two types of wallpaper. This combination will look great in the living room or hallway. Typically, this technique uses canvases of different colors and with different patterns, but they are identical in thickness and texture. Two most are allowed optimal solutions for the interior: contrast - different colors of wallpaper and monochrome - wallpaper similar in shades;
• Horizontal gluing allows you to combine material of different thicknesses. For example, the lower part can be decorated with deep, dark-colored wallpaper, and the upper part with light-colored textiles. The “border” between the canvases is decorated with a border. The interior of the bedroom and wallpaper of two types in a horizontal combination is what you need;
• Also, different wallpapers can be glued with inserts, thus placing emphasis on a specific area of ​​the room. For example, work area in the kitchen it is decorated in one color, and the rest of the space in another; · Patchwork technique - a strict combination of wallpaper. Decorative work begins with gluing “flaps”, then follows the adjustment of the rest of the wall background.

Video on the topic

It is very common to see two people wasting precious time wallpapering the same room. One of them, as a rule, coats the strip with glue and hands it to his partner, who stands idle on the scaffolding all this time. Then they change places. While the second one adjusts the strip in place, the first one observes the process and gives “valuable” advice. Then they argue and the pasting is postponed to another day.

However, all wallpaper work can be done by one person, without a partner. Moreover, labor productivity increases significantly. You just need to master a few techniques and abandon cliches, many of which date back hundreds of years.

List of required tools

To work productively with wallpaper, you need to replenish your arsenal of tools. Here full list what is needed for this:

1. Light stepladder.
2. Clean plastic bucket for glue.
3. Ditch for glue.
4. Paint roller with medium density fur, 250 mm wide.
5. A flat brush with a width of at least 50 mm.
6. Wallpaper line.
7. Wallpaper knife and a set of spare blades for it at the rate of 1 package per room.
8. Scissors.
9. Tape measure and pencil.
10. Water or laser two-plane self-aligning level.
11. Wallpaper brush (if the selected wallpaper requires careful handling when smoothing).
12. Rubber wallpaper roller (wide, for smoothing panels).
13. Rubber roller for joints (suitable for most types of wallpaper).
14. Plastic cone-shaped ribbed roller for joints (suitable for heavy wallpaper that has special instructions from the manufacturer).
15. Plastic wallpaper spatula (for smooth wallpaper it can be used instead of a rubber roller, and when working with other wallpaper it is convenient to press the wallpaper in the corners).
16. Cardboard or thick construction film wider than the width of the wallpaper.
17. Sponge and gauze cut to remove excess glue.
18. Pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

A few words about surface preparation

Not so long ago, the attitude towards wallpaper could be characterized by the phrase: “Seal it up so that it is clean and the scary walls are not visible!” In the modern understanding, the place of wallpaper in the interior is much wider. Therefore, there must be a reliable, smooth and clean surface under the wallpaper. Satisfies these requirements high quality plaster, putty in several layers with intermediate sanding and priming of each layer. Such a surface does not require large-scale repair work in the future and can withstand repeated wallpapering during subsequent cosmetic repairs.

There are wallpapers that can be removed without leaving any residue. These, for example, include all types of non-woven wallpaper. All types of vinyl wallpaper (this is the most common class on the market decorative coatings for walls) have a detachable backing that remains on the wall and is a ready-made base for gluing other wallpapers. Therefore, the requirement for high strength of plaster and putty layers is relevant. The base should not fall off along with the wallpaper when it is subsequently removed.

You can check the quality of the surface by scratching the wall crosswise in an inconspicuous place with a hard sharp object. If no chips form in the crosshairs, then the surface is durable.

Pattern matching, marking and storage of strips

The bulk of wallpaper is produced with a pattern. The larger it is, the larger its step (rapport), the more waste there will be during operation. The first technological operation when working with wallpaper is matching the pattern, marking and storing the strips.

Two rolls are rolled out on a clean floor. The one in the photo on the left has already been cut in length according to the desired height with a margin of at least 10 cm from this size. The second roll is combined with the design on the first page and pencil marks are placed along its edges. You can cut these places with scissors.

In order not to bother with a square and a ruler, it is enough to align the strip of wallpaper along the edges in the place where the cut was made, and press down the bend with your hands.

Then you need to cut off the rest of the wallpaper roll from the canvas with scissors. There is no need to worry about the uneven edge. After all, the reserve in length is intended for this purpose, so that after gluing the strip to the wall, you can cut off the excess in place with high precision to fit the ruler.

In the meantime, the previous marking strip will no longer be needed. on her back side You need to mark with an arrow the direction where the top will be, number it and roll the base outward. The roll must be placed vertically against the wall on which it will be glued in the future.

The next canvas is marked and stored in the order indicated above. With this method of preparing and storing cuts ready for gluing, you can straighten the wallpaper without taking up space in the room.

Typically, the cut strips are laid face down on top of each other, and glue is applied to the top strip in a stack. In this case, the edges of the lower cuts are damaged, which significantly reduces the quality of work.

Marking. Let's say plumb - no

The next stage of work is marking the walls in accordance with the plan. Almost all wallpapering guides advise using a plumb line for this. Stone Age! There is not a single professional who would use this device. To mark vertical and horizontal lines, use either a water level or a laser level. Mark the position of the first stripes from the corners (vertical lines), the position of the border on the wall or the place of transition from one wallpaper to another (horizontal level).

When drawing a line with a pencil, you do not need to draw it with force. It is enough just to outline it with a dotted line. If the line is left solid, then under transparent non-woven wallpaper it will be visible even through two layers of paint, and other wallpaper can be stained with graphite dust. It is important to make a slight tolerance on the width. Let's say the width of the wallpaper is 53 cm. Then the vertical line needs to be drawn back at least 54 cm from the corner, placing the edge parallel to the marking line, there is less chance of deviating from it than running the wallpaper straight along it.

Applying glue, impregnation and gluing the strip

After all the preparatory stages have been completed, you can begin to directly paste the room. By then all the stripes will be straightened. The glue must be diluted before starting work, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Here we can note one rule common to all: the water must be clean and cold, and the glue must be poured into the water in a thin stream with continuous stirring. You cannot dilute two packs of glue at once. It thickens quickly and lumps will begin to form. The type of glue must match the type of wallpaper.

The strip needs to be rolled out on cardboard or film. Pour some of the glue into a ditch, dip a roller in it and apply to the wallpaper. It is important to coat the edges well. Glue with an indicator is ideal for this. Nothing bad will happen if the roller goes beyond the edge of the canvas. Fresh glue can be easily removed with a damp sponge or gauze. The layer of glue applied should be uniform, but not thick.

Immediately after applying the glue, the wallpaper should be folded as shown in the photo and left to soak for three to five minutes. If the next strip of wallpaper follows this flat wall without any obstacles, you can coat the next cut and fold it as well. But you should not leave more than three strips for impregnation - they will begin to stick together.

The glue-soaked strip needs to be unrolled by climbing onto the ladder. Find the top using the mark and attach it to the wall, making an overlap on the ceiling (the amount of overlap should be greater than the total slope of the floors, which in some houses can reach 10 cm).

First, the upper half of the panel is glued and adjusted to the pattern. Then you need to go down the stairs and unfold the second half of the wallpaper, fit it end to end and begin to smooth it with a wide rubber roller (a wallpaper spatula or a wallpaper brush, depending on the type of wallpaper), starting from the middle and top, ending with the edges and bottom, squeezing all the air out.

Immediately after this, roll the joint with a narrow rubber roller. The seams should not be pressed too hard or rubbed with a rag. Excess glue should be blotted with a sponge, which should be washed immediately in running water.

The less attention is paid to the seams, the less they will stand out after drying.

Sockets and switches - to remove or not to remove

The answer is clear - shoot! There are several reasons. First, electrical fixtures are sometimes replaced, and a different model of outlet or switch may have different dimensions. It’s good if they’re big, but what if they’re not? Secondly, a rosette installed on top of the wallpaper looks much better than one cut along the contour.

Many manuals advise cutting the wallpaper crosswise at the location where the box is installed, and bending the resulting sectors inward and gluing them. Not the best in terms of fire safety option. It is better to immediately cut out the middle of the box.

This must be done while the wallpaper is damp, since they tend to stretch as they dry and then it is difficult to find the place where installation box. Naturally, when dismantling electrical fittings, you need to de-energize the room, and insulate the exposed wires and put them inside the box.

How to properly trim excess

One of the main tools in wallpaper making is a flexible ruler. It is designed simply: a strip of flexible stainless steel is sealed in a 60 cm long plastic case. The ruler can be pressed tightly even against uneven surfaces, accurately repeating all their curves. The photo shows how it should be used.

It is important to remember that after each cut you need to break off the tip of the blade of the wallpaper knife so that it is always sharp. The savings here are completely unjustified. After the excess has been removed, you need to wipe the surface with a damp sponge.

Despite the fact that the wallpaper is damp, the cut remains clean, without burrs or lint. It is impossible to do such work accurately without a wallpaper ruler.

Heating radiators - ways to get around the sore spot

Any master, regardless of qualifications, really dislikes heating radiators. In terms of complexity and painstakingness, this warm place in the apartment presents the greatest difficulty when wallpapering. New buildings have batteries that can be easily removed and installed back. When dismantling the radiator, all that remains of it are the wall mountings and floor outlets, to which it is connected via quick release connections(so-called American women).

With this method of pasting the surface behind the radiator, little time and nerves are spent. Much more will be required to first remove and then replace the battery. Before unscrewing the “American” nuts, you need to turn off the valves on the radiator supply and return and drain the water, having first reduced the pressure by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.

If it is not possible to remove the radiator, then it is enough to place strips of wallpaper around its perimeter to a depth of about 15 cm on each side. It is recommended to additionally coat the surface of the wall behind the battery with glue, especially if it is working.

To quickly and accurately complete wallpaper work without an assistant, you should use a few useful tips:

1. Use only a stepladder. “Goats” and scaffolding are bulky and can easily damage walls.
2. When working with non-woven wallpaper or fiberglass, there is no need to pre-cut and adjust the stripes according to the pattern. You can paste from a roll, since the glue for these types of wallpaper is applied to the wall.
3. To make the edge of the wallpaper running along the slopes neat, you need to make a small overlap (1-2 cm), wait until the wallpaper dries, and then trim off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife.
4. You should not join the wallpaper strictly in the corners. It is better to make a transition from one plane to another by an amount greater than the deviation of the wall from the vertical, and paste the next sheet of wallpaper level, overlapping the previous strip, cut both sheets under the ruler, and remove the excess.
5. All types of flooring, except parquet and tiles, are laid after wallpapering.
6. If parquet is laid on the floor, then before wallpapering it needs to be covered with two or three layers of thick cardboard. You cannot cover parquet with film!
7. Hands must be clean. After each pasted panel, wipe them with damp gauze, which you rinse periodically.

Wallpapering is the most common option when renovating premises. Ease of installation and availability of materials allow you to do the work yourself. In this article we will tell you in detail how to glue wallpaper with your own hands, starting with the choice of materials and glue, ending with the tricks and advice of experienced experts.

Preparing the walls

The preparatory stage should begin with clearing the walls of all unnecessary objects. Sockets and switches, baseboards, as well as door panels must be dismantled to simplify the work.

Let's do everything ourselves!

We carefully prepared this article before publication, and therefore we will tell you about all the nuances of gluing walls yourself: how to choose glue, how to apply it, how to glue it, etc.

It is recommended to de-energize the room to prevent damage electric shock during wet work. If this is not possible, it is necessary to carefully insulate the wires of switches and sockets and hide them in socket boxes.

Old wallpaper

Then you should start preparing the walls. If the walls are decorated with old wallpaper, they will have to be torn off. First they are removed by hand, and if you are lucky, the strips will come off entirely, but usually they come off poorly, in separate pieces. It is recommended to moisten the remaining fragments on the walls with warm water and clean them off with a spatula.

Difficulties may arise with vinyl samples with a moisture-resistant coating on the front side. It must be removed so that water can penetrate to the base and soak the glue. This will take a lot of time, but then the material will become more pliable and can be cleaned off with a spatula without much difficulty.

Paint Cleaning

If the walls are painted or whitewashed, the cleaning job becomes more difficult. The whitewash should be moistened generously with water and gradually removed with a spatula. Oil paint cleaning is more difficult and takes longer, but there are ways to speed up this process. Firstly, you can use special chemical compounds to remove paint, and secondly, use construction power tools.

The chemical method of removing paint will not be cheap and will require the use of personal protection, due to harmful fumes. As auxiliary tools To remove paint, a grinder or a hammer drill with special attachments in the form of metal brushes can be used. In this case, a respirator and safety glasses are also necessary due to the abundance of dust.

Alignment

When the room is cleared of old finishing, they begin to level the base. The amount of work at this stage depends on the condition of the walls. A wall with a small number of chips and minor defects will require only local leveling. Minor defects should be corrected with finishing putty, having previously treated the wall with a primer for better contact.

Pronounced wall irregularities will require more attention. You will need to putty in two layers - a starting putty to correct the main defects, and a finishing putty for final leveling. At the end, the walls are sanded with an abrasive mesh and cleaned of a layer of dust.

Types of wallpaper

Nowadays, the finishing materials market offers many wallpaper options that have certain performance characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Let's highlight the main types:

• Paper wallpaper. The most common type, characterized by low cost and ease of pasting. Paper wallpaper is environmentally friendly and great for bedrooms and children's rooms. On the other hand, they cannot be washed and do not retain their original appearance for long;
• Non-woven wallpaper is made from paper with the addition of non-woven fibers. They are durable, wear-resistant and not afraid of water. Gluing non-woven wallpaper is simple - the glue is applied directly to the walls. This finishing material is able to hide minor unevenness in the walls, which simplifies the process of leveling the base;
• Vinyl wallpaper consists of paper or non-woven backing covered with a vinyl coating. They are easy to clean and do not lose their brightness for a long time. Before gluing vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing, it is worth considering that they “do not breathe”, and it is not recommended to use them in children’s rooms and bedrooms;

• Acrylic finishing material is paper coated with an acrylic composition. Unlike vinyl wallpapers, they have a thin outer layer and are not as durable, but they allow air to pass through better;
• Natural. This type of wallpaper is environmentally friendly, exclusive and has a high price. They contain natural cork, straw, reed, etc. Application to walls requires some skill;
• Fiberglass material is ideal for office spaces. It is durable and strong, is not afraid of water and does not burn. After application, it is painted with paints on water based, and this can be done dozens of times;
• Textile samples consist of natural fabric material applied to paper base. They look chic and expensive, and cost accordingly. They are sensitive to moisture and mechanical stress, and also absorb odors well;

• Metallized wallpaper has an outer layer of aluminum foil, not afraid external influences and easy to clean. Ideal for modern interiors;
• Liquid wallpaper is the most unusual type of all listed. They are based on cellulose, supplemented with decorative dyes, fibers, and glitter. The walls may not be leveled before applying such a coating. It is not recommended to glue them in damp rooms due to their hygroscopicity;
• Photo wallpaper is a self-adhesive film on which a specific pattern is applied. You can depict everything on the wallpaper, from ornaments to photographs, which allows you to make the room unique.

As a rule, wallpaper for a room is selected based on taste preferences, but in order for it to last longer, it is also necessary to take into account its characteristics.

Wallpaper glue

Selecting glue causes difficulties for many who have started repairs with their own hands. In fact, the variety of options presented should not scare anyone, because in order to make right choice It is enough to focus on the type of wallpaper used. There are several types of wallpaper glue, differing in composition:

• methylcellulose glue;
• CMC glue, based on carboxymethylcellulose compounds;
• starch based glue.

The choice of glue is made based on the following features:

• type of wallpaper;
• room microclimate;
• wall material.

First of all, you should decide on the type of wallpaper. Manufacturers of adhesive compositions offer on the market large assortment products from which it is not possible to choose the required option challenging task. According to the type of compatibility with wallpaper, glue is:

• for light wallpaper (paper);
• heavy wallpaper (fiberglass, textile);
• non-woven wallpaper;
• vinyl samples;
• universal, suitable for all types.

How to choose the right glue taking into account the microclimate of the room? Materials for wet areas must be resistant to moisture and retain their properties under all conditions. Besides this damp rooms promote the spread of fungus and mold. The adhesive composition must contain antiseptic substances to prevent their appearance.

How to glue wallpaper with your own hands

Decorating walls with wallpaper is a procedure that you can easily do with your own hands, but it is important to adhere to certain rules so that the result is of high quality and the process itself does not take a lot of time and effort.

Final preparations

Before gluing the wallpaper, you need to go through the last preparatory stage - priming the walls. Priming allows you to achieve better adhesion between the base and finishing material. To carry out the work, you can choose an acrylic primer or use glue. Manufacturers of adhesive compositions indicate on the packaging how to properly dilute it for gluing or priming walls.

The composition is applied to the walls with a roller, and the corners are treated with a brush. It is recommended to prime immediately before work, so that dust does not have time to settle on the walls, which can impair adhesion. It is also worth providing the necessary conditions in the room itself. During the work, until the glue has completely dried, the windows in the room must be closed.

The most optimal temperature indoors – 20 degrees. It is also necessary to restore order and wash the floor so that when manipulating the wallpaper, it does not spoil its appearance.

Where to start gluing

Which wall the gluing process will begin with is, by and large, unimportant. The main thing is to stick the first strip strictly vertically. If you don’t want to break the level, it is permissible to take some obviously vertical object (window slope or door frame). You can start gluing in the corners. The remaining strips will be glued according to the first reference strip and the fitting process will be simplified.

How to prepare glue correctly

All modern adhesives have instructions on the back of the packaging on how to glue the wallpaper. It is necessary to study it carefully before gluing wallpaper and follow all recommendations. As a rule, the preparation process comes down to diluting dry glue in water in the proportions indicated on the package. To prevent the formation of lumps, it is necessary to add glue to the water in small portions, thoroughly stirring the resulting composition.

How to glue wallpaper

First of all, you need to find information on the rules for applying glue on the wallpaper packaging. If the glue should be applied directly to the strips, then they must be rolled up with the coated side inward. The edges are folded towards the middle several times. The folds should remain rounded and the strip of wallpaper should resemble a scroll.

If, according to the technology, glue is applied to the wall, then it is necessary to coat the base along the width of the glued strip with a margin. To apply glue in the corners under the ceiling and floor, use a brush.

Climbing onto a stepladder, you need to run a few centimeters of the glued strip onto the ceiling. The edge of the strip must be aligned with the marked vertical or landmark. Then, using smoothing movements from the landmark to opposite side you should glue the strip near the ceiling.

with a special soft spatula. When gluing wallpaper, you need to watch for the formation of air bubbles, be sure to expel them with excess glue to the edges.

The remaining parts are glued in the same way, you just need to focus on the already glued strip. Finally, you need to trim off the excess parts in the corners of the ceiling and floor. The easiest way is to use a wide spatula and a utility knife. The spatula is applied to the corner, and the resulting margin is trimmed along its edge. As a result, the edges are smooth.

Separately, it is worth mentioning how to paste wallpaper in the corners. There are two ways. The first one involves gluing one strip overlapping to the other side of the corner with a margin. The second strip is cut at the corner and glued directly onto the stock. If the material is thick, the joint will be very noticeable, and it is better to use the second method.

To achieve a more invisible joint in the corners, the strips on both sides are glued overlapping and cut with a sharp knife using a spatula. If the corners were glued tightly, the stripes will fit perfectly evenly. External corners the premises are glued in the same way, using one of the methods.

How to glue wallpaper when there are obstacles

For those who understand how to glue wallpaper, difficulties may arise in areas near doors and windows. If the window or door is located flush with the wall, it is enough to cut a strip of wallpaper along the trim or jamb with a small margin. Then, up to the corner of the casing, the strip is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. The resulting parts must be hidden behind the structure of the door or window, and the excess remains must be cut off.

If the door or window is located in different planes with the wall, the work becomes somewhat more complicated. First, you need to seal the slope by placing a small margin on the wall, which is trimmed along the edge using a spatula. Next, you need to seal the wall in a similar way.

Difficulties may also arise when bypassing sockets and switches. If they were dismantled before carrying out the work, then only installation boxes with wires should remain on the walls, located flush with the wall, which will not interfere with the work.

If for some reason you remove electrical installation products If it didn’t work out, then you need to apply the strip to the obstacle and mark its edges. Using a knife, cut out the required fragment according to the marks, leaving a reserve that can be hidden behind the overhead decorative frame.

If you need to seal the wall behind the battery, it is not necessary to remove it. It is enough to have a certain supply of wallpaper from all over the world. You may also need information on how to properly bypass heating pipes. If they hang on clamps, you can dismantle them for convenience and put them back in place after finishing the work. Holes in the walls will not be difficult to find.

How long does it take for wallpaper to dry?

The drying time of wallpaper depends on its type. Non-woven wallpaper takes at least a day to dry, and the thicker it is, the longer you need to wait. Vinyl wallpaper dries for about two days, provided the room humidity is no more than 60%. Drying time for paper wallpaper varies from 24 to 72 hours. It is important to remember that you should not open windows at this time, and generally allow drafts in the room. By following these rules, you can hope for a high-quality result.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Is it possible to glue wallpaper onto wallpaper? - This can only be done in certain cases. If the old samples are thin, then most likely they sit firmly on the walls, therefore, they will be a good basis for the new finish. However, how long such wallpaper will last is a big question;
• How much do the services of craftsmen cost? - On average, finishers estimate their work from 150 to 170 rubles per glued square meter;
• What to do if the wallpaper peels off? — You can use a brush to glue the detached part with the remaining glue, or use a special glue for seams;
• What happens if you ventilate the room during and after work? — It may happen that in a draft the glue dries too quickly and the material does not have time to stick.