≡× MENU

• Interior
• Windows
• Walls
• Projects
• Buildings

Insulation of double-glazed windows. Insulation of wooden windows using Swedish Eurostrip technology. Rules for installing metal-plastic windows

6516 0 1

Do-it-yourself window insulation: 4 methods that will interest you

Hello. Today I’ll tell you about self-insulation of windows in an apartment and in country house. Thermal insulation of windows is very important stage real estate renovation, which should not be neglected if you are interested in the energy efficiency of your home and reasonable heating costs.

General information

Today, many methods of thermal insulation are known. The choice of one method depends on the type of window.

This time you will learn how to make ordinary wooden windows and modern double-glazed windows warmer. In addition, I will talk about how to insulate openings outside the house with your own hands using inexpensive polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation of plastic double-glazed windows

High quality made plastic double glazed windows are equipped with special rubber seals, which, due to their tight fit to the frame, prevent the passage of air from outside to inside the room.

The areas through which cold passes are:

• joint plastic frame with a window sill and slopes;
• glass.

So, what methods of metal-plastic double-glazed windows can be used for insulation?

Seam sealing

Even after high-quality plastering of the slopes, a micro-gap remains. If this micro-gap is not sealed, it will cause cold air circulation and condensation. As a result, fungus may appear at the junction of the slopes and the frame.

To close the gap you will need following materials and tools:

• Sanitary silicone in a tube;
• Mounting gun for working with sealant;
• White spirit;
• Sharp knife
• Awl;
• Paper napkins.

Instructions for sealing seams are given in the following diagram.

Let's consider the listed stages in more detail:

• Using the tip of an awl, we widen and level the gap along the entire frame;
• We moisten a paper napkin with thinner and carefully wipe the joint between the slopes and the frame;
• We prepare the tube for work, namely, we cut off the plastic tip with a knife, insert it into the gun and screw on the cone of the nozzle;

• Fill the gap with sealant around the perimeter of the glass unit;

• If necessary, level the seam and clean the adjacent surfaces from contamination.

Sanitary sealant is completely removed with white spirit within 20 minutes after application. After 20 minutes, it will be very difficult to remove the sealant.

Now the most important thing you need to know when filling the gap between the slopes and the frame with sealant.

Typically silicone is applied as follows. A person stands near the window sill, places the tube with a cone to the gap at an angle of 45-60 degrees and guides the tube towards himself.

As a result, the sealant is squeezed out by the worm, and it has to be leveled and smoothed with your finger, after which the adjacent surfaces must be cleaned. Even if you remove the silicone deposits, a layer of several microns will still remain and after a couple of weeks a streak dirty with dust will be visible in this place.

To ensure that the silicone gets into the gap and nowhere else, we apply the cone of the tube at an angle of 45 degrees and move it forward, and not towards ourselves. As a result, the tip of the cone will straighten the seam itself and there will be virtually no contamination on the sides.

For insulation of conventional double-glazed windows or a balcony with panoramic windows Not just any silicone is suitable; in extreme cases, we use sanitary sealants that will not mold later.

Insulating glass with film

Plastic windows at home can be additionally insulated with heat-saving film. No, now I’m not talking about covering frames with tape, that’s of no use here, I mean shrink film, which can be used to create an additional air chamber between the glass and the room.

Did you know that the greatest heat loss on modern double-glazed windows is recorded not in the frame area, but directly on the glass?

Manufacturers convince us that argon or other inert gases, which are less thermally conductive compared to air, are pumped between the two glasses. But the problem is that the gas layer works for 2-3 years, after which the space between the two glasses becomes airy.

Solving this problem is not difficult, I showed how to do it in the diagram.

Let's look at the stages listed in the diagram in more detail:

• First we clean it from dust and wash it off dirt. inner part double glazed windows;

The easiest way to clean the junction between the glass and the frame is to remove any accumulated dirt using a stiff toothbrush. Glass can be easily washed away from the most difficult stains by vodka applied from a spray bottle and subsequently collected with a special scraper.

• After the washed surface has dried, we glue double-sided tape around the perimeter of the frame;
• Next, trying not to stain it, we cut the thermal film according to the dimensions of the perimeter taped with tape;

• Gradually remove the protective tape from the tape and glue the film;

• The surface of the film will be wavy, but it doesn’t matter; we heat it as usual;

• After the heated film has cooled, the surface will be perfectly smooth like glass.

The use of thermal film cannot be called innovative, since this technology was used back in Soviet times. Then ordinary polyethylene oilcloth with the help of a wooden glazing bead was stuffed onto the window from the outside for the winter.

And what did we get as a result? As a result of this installation, the room was darker than usual and the beautiful views from the window could be forgotten until spring arrived.

The use of special shrink film is completely free of such disadvantages. Again, if earlier with the onset of the warm season the oilcloth was removed from the frames, today this is not at all necessary, since the thermal film is absolutely transparent.

By the way, in summer, an additional air gap between the glass and the film will prevent heat from penetrating into the room.

Thermal film can be installed with equal success on both plastic double-glazed windows and wooden windows. True, in the latter case, the wooden frames will have to be pre-aligned and painted.

Thermal insulation of wooden windows

Do you have wooden windows in your apartment or house and even foam insulation doesn’t protect you from the cold? Of course, you can change the old ones wooden structures for plastic double-glazed windows. On the other hand, you can leave environmentally friendly wooden windows, but make them much warmer.

Elimination of heat loss using Swedish technology

Now I’ll tell you how to insulate wooden windows for the winter Swedish technology.

Many people have heard something about Swedish technology, but not everyone knows what it is. In a few words, Swedish restoration technology wooden windows- this is a complex work, as a result of which a wooden window in terms of thermal conductivity will be comparable to plastic double-glazed windows.

The main stages of working with old windows using Swedish technology are listed in the following diagram.

Let's consider the listed stages in more detail.

• The sashes are removed from old wooden windows and carefully laid on a flat surface;
• The sashes and frames are inspected for damage and dirt;
• The surface is washed, and damage to the wood is eliminated using putty;

• A special cutter is used to cut a groove around the perimeter of the sash;
• Sawdust and shavings are blown out of the groove;

• A special tubular seal is inserted into the groove and rolled with a pressure roller;
• The gap at the junction of glass and wood is filled with silicone or acrylic;
• The sashes are placed on the frame, after which assembled structure ready for use.

If the glass in the frames has cracks or small chips, they must be replaced immediately, otherwise the insulation will be of no use.

So now you know what Swedish technology is. The question is, how advisable is it to do the listed work yourself or still order window restoration from specialists?

It would seem that this is a question, because specialists will have to pay, while you can do everything with your own hands for free. But in reality this is not the case, since you will have to buy a router and a pressure roller. The price of such a tool is high and it is unprofitable to buy it to insulate windows just once.

External thermal insulation with polystyrene foam

You can insulate wooden windows with your own hands not only from the inside, but also from the outside. The method that I will now tell you about is the optimal solution for budget thermal insulation of a country house.

To perform thermal insulation you will need the following materials and tools:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (material that does not absorb water and is almost impermeable to air);
• Polyurethane foam;
• Sharp mounting knife;
• Ruler and marker.

What can be insulated with polystyrene foam? This method will allow you to seal old platbands or finish external slopes without the need for cementation. In addition, carefully executed cladding will certainly decorate the facade of your home.

The instructions for performing thermal insulation are as follows:

• We measure the width of the slope;

We take into account that the width along the length of the slope on old windows can be different, so we use the largest value.

• In accordance with the measurements, we cut pieces of polystyrene foam approximately 0.5 m long;

• We apply polyurethane foam to the slope and attach a polystyrene foam blank;

• We hold the piece of polystyrene foam for 1-2 minutes until the foam sets a little, and then glue the adjacent sections of the slope in this way;

• After inner side the slope is pasted over, we carry out similar work on the platband.

Expanded polystyrene, which is shown in the photo report, is different high density, and therefore can be used without additional finishing. However, if you decide to plaster your home, foam board trim can also be plastered over a paint grid.

About how to plaster foam boards you can find out from my relevant articles.

Conclusion

I told you what I knew about insulating windows in the house. Do you know any effective ways besides those listed? Tell us about it in the comments to what you read. In addition, I recommend watching the video in this article, I think it will be interesting.

As winter approaches and the weather gets colder, you notice a draft moving through your apartment. Placing your hand near the window on a windy night, you find a source of painful coolness. Stop putting up with this and sleep under three blankets! There are many ways to insulate windows. They range from simple to complex, from practically free to quite expensive, from "old-fashioned" methods to modern technologies. In this longread we tried to collect the most effective methods.

Before taking drastic action, let's consider possible reasons draft coming from the windows. It would seem that wooden windows, due to their material, retain more heat, and plastic windows - a relatively new achievement of science and technology - are simply designed for heat and sound insulation. Then why can they allow a draft into our house?

1. Unfortunately, poor-quality window installation is quite common. Sometimes installation company workers who call themselves professionals have a very superficial understanding of the installation of window units.
2. The second reason may be partly related to the first - an attempt to save on installation plastic windows. Companies often reduce the price by saving on insulation, foam, and the installation itself. Subsequently, low-quality windows are much more expensive due to the need to additionally insulate them.
3. Even if cold air does not seep through the gaps, the windows themselves may be to blame, such as the old “single-pane” windows, which provide only a thin glass barrier between the house and the street, but not cozy warmth.
4. Window distortion and loose fit window frame to the wall also threatens heat loss. Sometimes this happens due to deformation of the building, which especially often happens in old wooden houses.

It's wise to start by diagnosing the situation. Determine the most critical places from which the wind blows. Where does the cold come from: from the windowsill or window sashes? Maybe the problem is a worn-out seal or poor-quality slopes?

To determine the exact place from which cold air is blowing, you can simply run your hand over the surface of the window unit. If you cannot identify the problem in this way, light a candle or lighter and move it around the frame - the fire is more sensitive to drafts.

Look at the windows when it rains. Moisture accumulated in a certain place will indicate gaps and cracks. When moisture accumulates in the corner of a window or along one of its edges, the problem is likely in the joints. Moisture that accumulates in the middle of the window panel may indicate some type of crack in the glass.

Perhaps the wind is blowing due to a poor-quality seal. Try investing in open window sheet of paper and close the window completely. If the paper pulls out easily as soon as you pull the corner of the sheet, it means that the seal is not pressed well against the frame.

Before you choose a method of insulation from those available, it is worth thinking about the goals of the insulation. It's clear that temperature control is a major concern, but what compromises are you willing to make? Will you be able to refuse in favor of cheapness? beautiful view, limit the flow of light or block access to a window?

You also need to consider cost. Some materials cost almost nothing: say, sealant can be bought for a couple of hundred rubles. More reliable and durable solutions will cost more and may require specialist help, but in the long term they may be a worthy investment.

Should I ask for help or insulate the windows myself?

To insulate your windows, you basically have only two options: do all the work yourself or turn to a professional. With your own hands, you can simply insulate a window sill, frame contour, window opening indoors, or replace the seal. If any defect appears within warranty period, the installer will have to fix any problems. In addition, it is worth resorting to the help of installers if external insulation work is required, and the window is located at a significant height - its replacement or renovation work may be associated with an increased risk, and experts know exactly how to properly insulate plastic windows from the outside.

It is worth remembering that it is better to insulate windows before the onset of winter - then the working conditions will be more comfortable. In addition, sealants and some others building materials can only be used in a certain temperature range, otherwise they lose their properties.

How to insulate plastic windows with your own hands

If you need to insulate a window opening, then polyurethane foam will do. As it expands, it fills the voids in the opening and prevents air movement. However, foam is a short-lived material susceptible to low temperatures, and will fit with a small gap. Also a popular insulation material is mineral wool, with heat and sound insulation. It is resistant to high temperatures and easy to install.

Silicone sealant will also help to insulate window frames. When working with it, it is best to use an inexpensive tool - a lever syringe. The sealant also blocks moisture, making the windows resistant to mold and mildew. It is also worth choosing a transparent sealant - this way it will not be noticeable if it accidentally gets on the glass.

Before you apply caulk or expansion foam, it's worth checking exactly how much it expands - to determine this, apply a small drop to the corner of the window.

Another “cheap and cheerful” method is to plug the cracks in the windows with industrial wool and then seal them with masking tape. Previously, instead of tape, they used fabric or paper strips with a paste made of laundry soap. But when using this option, its fragility is obvious, and it will not completely get rid of blowing.

A good and inexpensive insulation for plastic windows is foam rubber: the financial costs will be minimal. Remove the film from the adhesive surface of the insulation and press the foam rubber insulation for windows into the required places. With the onset of warming it is very easy to remove. However, if moisture gets in, the insulation may lose its seal.

How to insulate the slopes of plastic windows

To insulate the slopes of plastic windows, you can use the most different materials– sandwich panels, plasterboard, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. However, polystyrene foam is the most fragile of the listed materials and tends to accumulate moisture. If it is necessary to insulate a window from the outside, dry mixtures for finishing slopes will help.

First, you need to carefully treat the cracks - eliminate possible contamination and remove old mounting foam. If you chose drywall to insulate the slopes, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

• cut blanks from plasterboard required sizes and treat with a moisture-resistant primer, wait until the workpieces dry;
• insert plasterboard sheets in the slot;
• we fill the small gaps remaining between the drywall and the wall with polyurethane foam;
• after the foam has hardened, we finish cosmetic repairs primer and paint.

External insulation work is carried out at temperatures up to +5 ° C, otherwise building materials may lose some of their properties.

You can use a special heat-saving film to insulate windows. It lets light into the room and at the same time does not “let it out” infrared radiation. This film not only protects the warmth of our home, but also helps get rid of the “ crying windows", that is, from . Also, windows on which heat-saving film is glued are characterized by greater strength. Before starting work, it is important to wash the glass, treat it with a degreasing agent and wipe it dry. Next, you need to stick the film so that its “metal” side faces the street. The film is glued not only to the glass itself, but also with an overlap to the frame. Some manufacturers produce films using self-adhesive base, but some types of film require tape. To prevent bubbles and wrinkles on the film, use a household hair dryer.

A simple and inexpensive life hack that will help cope with drafts is to attach bubble film to the window. Choose film with large bubbles as it tends to handle cold air better. Trim the bubble wrap so that it extends slightly over the window frame. Spray the window with water from a spray bottle, then “glue” a sheet of cut wrapping film onto the wet glass. You can reinforce it with double-sided tape. The “bumpy” side should face the glass. The film should adhere easily and remain in place for several months. If desired, you can apply a double layer of film for better thermal insulation. The only negative is that this method blocks the view from the window, but light will nevertheless enter the room.

Sew a plain fabric to fit the width of the window. Fill it with some loose, dense substance such as sand, rice or polyester, then place it along the bottom of the window. In this case, heavy materials (denim, corduroy) will retain cold air more effectively than light materials (cotton, knitwear, etc.).

Replace the seal

If the problem is a worn seal, you can replace it yourself by selecting a suitable one hardware store. It is also better to choose a black sealant: black is the natural color of rubber, and impurities of other colors can spoil the quality of the product. After the old seal is removed, you need to clean the grooves from dust and dirt, treat the corners of the frame with glue and trim off the excess with scissors. The resulting joint also needs to be treated with glue.

People have been using wooden windows for a very long time, so the question “How to insulate old wooden windows?” there are many answers.

• A very old method that our grandparents used was to cover wooden windows with newspapers. They were soaked in water and plugged into cracks. The space between the glass and the frame was sealed with paper strips. Of course, “paper will endure anything,” and you can survive the winter with it, but removing newspaper particles in the spring will be very problematic. In addition to the banal inconvenience, there is also a risk of damaging the window covering.
• If old windows need to be insulated quickly, and the aesthetic side of the issue is not very important to you, ordinary paper is also suitable. To make paper putty, you can shred old newspapers, soak them in water, add clay or crushed chalk and seal the cracks with the resulting composition. To secure the window putty, simply use tape. However, this method is short-lived and will most likely last only one season.
• Foam rubber – regular or tubular – can be used as insulation for wooden windows. It will be effective if the wooden doors have already dried out and do not fit tightly to the frame. Previously, foam rubber was nailed down with small nails, but now you can use regular masking tape. This material can serve faithfully for a couple of years, then it will begin to deform and will need to be replaced.
• When insulating wooden windows, you can also use sealant. It is necessary to remove the wooden glazing beads holding the glass using a screwdriver, apply sealant and install the glazing beads back - preferably new ones, since old ones often break during dismantling.
• Wood tends to crack. Therefore, the frame is often covered with a network of small cracks through which heat can escape. To seal them, you will need to clean the double-glazed windows from decorative covering, fill the cracks with melted paraffin, homemade putty, sealant or special putty, and then cover the frame again with paint or varnish.

Insulation of wooden windows in Moscow and the Moscow region has been our main specialization since 1993!

We insulate all types of wooden windows - both with double-glazed windows (information about this is in the section on insulating wooden windows with double-glazed windows and in the section on repairing plastic and wooden windows), and insulating ordinary wooden windows.

For wooden frames from the Soviet period we offer primarily modern grooved version of window insulation using Swedish technology EUROSTRIP.

The Swedish window insulation technology EUROSTRIP got its name from its name trademark EUROSTRIP, manufacturer of used seals.

EUROSTRIP is a trademark of the Swedish concern TRELLEBORG, which produces various types rubber products, including household seals for windows and doors.

The manufacturer’s website www.trelleborg.ru contains information about seal materials, their characteristics, as well as dealers in different regions of the Russian Federation.

All the seals we use for insulating ordinary wooden windows are stamped - that is, on the seal itself there is a marking that informs about the country of production (Sweden), the manufacturer's trademark (EUROSTRIPE) and the composition of the material (SILICON, EPDM, TPE).

With this option of insulating windows along the perimeter of the sash or, if this is not possible, then along the perimeter of the frame at the junction of the sash and window box the mounting groove is milled. The groove is about 3 mm wide and about 8 mm deep. (As a rule, to perform this work, the sashes are removed from their hinges). It is necessary to use a router, not a grinder, and a cutter required diameter, because when drilling a groove in other ways, for example, when using an angle grinder (grinder), it is not possible to maintain the required cutting width. This means the seal will not stay in the groove correctly and will fall out. Savings on purchase necessary equipment will result in irreparable defects.

An original stamped seal of the EUROSTRIP brand made of silicone rubber is rolled into the milled groove. We only use silicone rubber because it has improved performance characteristics compared to regular rubber (EPDM).

Firstly, due to its chemical inertness, silicone sealant is not afraid of contact with almost all types of paints, in particular alkyd, acrylic and aqua enamels. After drying, the paint that gets on the silicone seal forms a film that gradually peels off. In this case, the seal remains undamaged. You just need to carefully clean it of dried paint (it is best to do this a few weeks after painting).

For comparison, a seal made of ordinary rubber (EPDM) after contact with even a small amount of paint hardens or melts and must be replaced. A sealant made of thermoplastic elastomer (TEP) or thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) is even more capricious when exposed to paints - it practically dissolves and turns into a porridge-like mass.

Secondly, the silicone seal is very elastic. But this is one of the most important properties sealant used for insulating windows. After all, an inelastic seal will not provide a tight seal when the surface is uneven. In addition, over time, a natural increase in the gap gap occurs (the frame has dried out, the fittings have worn out). The silicone seal, due to its elasticity, will close the enlarged gap. And the EPDM grade sealant will remain deformed, flattened, inelastic and “will not fit behind the gap.”

Thirdly, silicone sealant is more durable than EPDM and TPE sealants and has a much wider temperature range of use, which means it is best suited for insulating windows for the winter.

For these reasons, EPDM and TPE sealants are not recommended for insulating wooden windows of the Soviet period. And the silicone seal is the most best option for insulating old windows.

When ordering window insulation work from us using Swedish technology, the price already includes, if necessary, fitting and adjustment work (so that the window opens and closes normally), sealing the joint between glass and wood silicone sealant and an inter-frame anti-dust seal (for frames screwed together with screws).

The warranty period for insulating wooden windows using the groove method is 3 years. Service life 10-15 years.

By insulating a window, you only change the functional characteristics of the window - ease of opening and closing, heat-insulating and noise-insulating properties.

And for change appearance windows require window painting; with this type of insulation, it can be ordered simultaneously with insulation or separately, at any time later, since we use silicone seals that are not afraid of paints.

We also have cheaper homemade options for window insulation- self-adhesive rubber seals, usually also from the Swedish company VARNAMO, or polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam seals. And also completely inexpensive options insulating windows as in ancient times - with cotton wool, paper, masking tape.

Prices for insulating ordinary wooden windows in Moscow and the Moscow region using the groove method:

insulation of medium-sized sash (up to m2) for paired windows - 2000 rub.

insulation balcony door for paired windows - 3000 rub.

For handicraft options - from 1000 rubles to 1500 rubles per sash up to m2.

As for artisanal options, “grandmother’s” methods, they are usually intended for insulating very old windows, which you don’t mind spoiling, and the service life of such artisanal methods is very short, as a rule, it is one season, that is, no more than 3-4 months.

Let's take a look at some of these artisanal options. And at the same time we will trace the history of the issue.

- Putty- this method of insulation has been around for over a hundred years. Insulation in this case consists of coating the glass at the junction of the glass and the frame, if the glass is fastened without glazing beads, simply with nails, that is, we are talking about very old, pre-revolutionary windows, which are almost non-existent in the Moscow region, or in coating the junction of the frame with the glass in front by nailing a glazing bead if the windows already have glazing beads, that is, for windows manufactured after 1917-20 and before about 1995. This method became completely and irrevocably obsolete with the invention of window sealants. Around 1985-90, sealants replaced window putty. Sealants are applied to the window in 1-2 minutes, and window putty 1-2 hours, and they do not need to be hidden under glazing beads, since they themselves are quite aesthetic - white or transparent strips next to the glass perform all the functions of window putty, but last much longer . But the window putty is brown and spreads from the heat and forms smudges and needs to be hidden under the glazing bead, and in order to apply window putty under the glazing beads, you need to remove the glazing beads, which can crack the glass. In general, even our grandmothers have long forgotten about window putty.

- Paraffin. The candle wax is melted and all the cracks are covered with it like plasticine. It’s a little easier to wipe off than window putty, but it also takes a long time, and you’ll have to spend a lot of time melting the wax and applying it while it’s still hot. It is recommended only in desperate situations - for example, a hut in the taiga, cut off from the world by permafrost, and there is a supply of candles.

- Hemp Sealing Rope- was used for partial sealing of the joint between the sash and the frame and insulation of windows in the pre-revolutionary period and until approximately the 1980s of the last century. The rope was nailed along the perimeter of the sash. There was an insulation effect, but it was far from complete; the gaps still remained, but without the ropes the blow would still have been even stronger. After the next painting, the ropes hardened and were no longer useful, they only interfered with the normal closing of the windows. After about 1985, ropes were replaced by foam rubber seals and then self-adhesive polyethylene foam seals.

- Old newspapers- used to insulate windows also in the last century. They were used in two ways: either rolled and lightly soaked and stuffed into a gap in the narthex, at the junction of the sash and frame; after drying, the newspapers swelled and filled the space, or cut into strips and pasted onto the junction of the sash and frame soapy water, milk or starch or wallpaper glue. Or at the same time both for filling the gap and for pasting over the false gap. The disadvantage was that the method was one-time, that is, after opening the window, all the insulation had to be started all over again, and in addition, the newspapers stuck to the paintwork and the windows had to be repainted in the spring. Therefore, in those days, windows were painted almost every year. The method became obsolete with the advent of self-adhesive seals, that is, approximately in 1985-1995. In Soviet times it was very popular. Enterprises usually held cleanup days and employees themselves insulated the windows using this method.

- Old rags, cotton ones are best. They used it in much the same way as newspapers. And around the same time. They cut it into strips and glued it around the perimeter of the sash when closed. Under the strips of paper, an additional seal was usually placed in the cracks from old newspapers, and later from cotton wool, and then, after the 1970s, even from foam rubber. The disadvantages are the same - fragility, no more than one season, and damage paint coating.

- Foam rubber. In the beginning, from about the 1970s to the 1990s, foam rubber was sold without an adhesive composition. These were simply strips of foam rubber that were inserted into the cracks around the perimeter of the sashes. This method was good because the foam rubber could be pulled out if necessary to open the window and, after ventilation, stuffed into the cracks again. Sometimes, if ventilation was not required, strips of old newspapers, canvas, and later even medical adhesive tape and masking tape were glued over the foam rubber. Sometimes this option was used even before the 2000s-2010s.

- Band-Aid and masking tape . Insulation with adhesive tape gained popularity around 1970-1980, and later masking tape appeared. First, some porous material for insulation was stuffed into the cracks - cotton wool or foam rubber or old rags, and tape or adhesive tape was stuck on top. Oddly enough, this artisanal method is still used today. Sometimes it is even used for self-insulation modern windows with double glazed windows. Disadvantages: one-time insulation, damage to the paint and varnish coating of wooden windows, as for plastic and aluminum windows - in the spring you also have to wipe off the remaining glue and the profile is scratched, but besides this, for window fittings Such insulation options are disastrous - the fittings are stretched even more instead of the opposite operation - adjustment.

- Foam rubber and polyethylene foam, cut into thin strips. These materials appeared around 1990-1998 and quickly became popular. The insulation was smeared with Moment type glue and glued along the perimeter of the sash. With this method of insulation, windows could already be opened and closed. Insulation in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics was already quite satisfactory, moreover thermal insulation characteristics such insulation were the best of all handicraft and even modern methods, and besides, this window insulation has already been done for many years. The period of such insulation was approximately 5-8 years, and this option was a technological breakthrough in the field of insulation of window frames. All subsequent development in this area was reduced to the improvement of materials and methods of their fastening. Our company was actively involved in this insulation option in the period from 1993 to 2000.

- Self-adhesive foam rubber and polyethylene foam seals. Seals with an adhesive composition already applied appeared around 1997-2002. However, adhesive composition was very weak and to extend the service life the seals had to be coated with additional glue. In terms of thermal insulation, these options were inferior to previous non-self-adhesive seals, since the seal strips were too thin and did not cover the window cracks well.

- Self-adhesive rubber seals. Such seals appeared at the end of the last century and are still used today. One of the disadvantages is that the adhesive composition does not hold well and in order for this insulation to last for more than one season, the tubular seals must be additionally coated with the same Moment-type glue. The material used in modern self-adhesive seals is rubber. Among the disadvantages is that it is afraid of paints and heavy contamination. And in general, the service life is still short, even if you glue it not on a self-adhesive basis, but spread it with additional glue, then this option will last up to 5-8 years, since the seal deteriorates from the ingress of paints, dirt, and also rubber with loses elasticity over time.

- Sealant. Replaced window putty. Designed for insulation and sealing of joints of fixed joints. Ideal and modern for insulating the junction of glass and window frame, as well as for other joints, for example, the junction of a window frame and a window sill or slopes. We use sealant widely in all modern window insulation options as one of the insulation elements, as component. But sometimes sealant is used as one of the artisanal options for insulation, using it not only for joints of fixed joints, but sealing the window tightly with sealant - sealing the gap in the narthex, at the junction of the sash and the frame. And this is not true. Since after this it is impossible to open the window for ventilation, and as a result, with the onset of a warm period, this sealant has to be peeled off, which is very labor-intensive. You can apply sealant to the window to cover both what is needed and what is not needed very quickly, but then it will take a long time to peel it off. Therefore, we recommend applying sealant only at the joints of fixed joints, where it will not need to be dismantled later, for example, to seal glass, which increases both the thermal insulation and sound insulation of windows.

- Polyurethane foam. Used for insulating seams around the window frame, foaming installation seams along the joint of the frame and window opening. Foam, like sealant, is not intended for insulating the false gap - between the sash and the frame. If you apply it along this joint, then how can you open the window? You'll have to really struggle in the spring to get it off. But around the box, around the perimeter of the window, foam is very necessary. For any windows - not only wooden, but also for plastic and aluminum windows. Foam is a porous material; it is the polyurethane foam that insulates the seam. (In ancient times, before the advent of foam, when installing windows, they made do with tow or old rags). And various sealants or adhesive tapes are applied on top of the foam to ensure safety polyurethane foam, to increase its service life, as it is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and temperature changes.

This is where we will finish the review of artisanal insulation methods, leaving outside the scope of our consideration very exotic insulation options, for example, flour mixed with sheep or camel hair or straw mixed with clay, or insulation with palm leaves, etc...

Experts, not without reason, believe that about 40% of heat escapes through our windows. However window insulation and additional insulation can increase the temperature in any room by 4-5 °C.

There is an opinion that installing new windows from PVC profile will allow you not to think about heat loss. However, high-quality insulation Wooden windows will keep your home environmentally friendly and save your budget.

In general, there is an enviable variety of different ways to insulate windows. with my own hands. But absolutely all of them are associated with certain difficulties and inconveniences associated with the operation of windows in the future.

Our company carries out work on insulation of windows using Swedish technology with Euro-Strip insulation. All work is carried out with a guarantee. Entrust the insulation of your home's windows to the experienced hands of specialists company " Windows Service Plus» .

Prices for window insulation work

Our company provides a guarantee on all work for a period of 3 years.

High-quality insulation of windows using Swedish technology is carried out in stages, in compliance with all technological requirements.

The procedure and composition of work for insulating wooden windows:

1) Before starting insulation, it is advisable to wash the windows.

2) The first step is to check the sashes of wooden windows for the effectiveness of their closing, and also carefully check all the mechanisms for their functionality.

3) Only then can you safely remove the sashes from their hinges. Our craftsmen carry the sashes to the landing in order to maintain cleanliness in your home).

4) Already on landing careful adjustment of the sashes is carried out. To do this, remove excess layers of old paint, which prevents the sashes from fitting tightly to the window frame when opening and closing the sashes.

5) In order to put the insulation in its place, craftsmen create special grooves along the entire contour of the wooden window sashes using a milling cutter.

6) A high-quality Euro-Strip seal is rolled into the prepared grooves.

7) In addition, the window sashes are insulated between each other and inside the sashes. This seal will help prevent the penetration of dust and dirt.

8) Upon completion of the above work, the sashes are re-attached to the hinges, and the fittings are replaced. The customer can order replacement accessories in advance.

9) And at the end of the insulation work, a final check of the sashes of insulated wooden windows is carried out for opening and closing, as well as for the quality functioning of all mechanisms and installed fittings.

View the results of our restoration work and insulation of windows you can on our website in the section

In the cold season, a large amount of heat can escape through old frames and sashes - up to 30-40%. Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to prevent this heat loss on your own. First of all, you will need to clean the surface. You should always start insulating them by washing, drying and degreasing them. This way you can detect unobvious gaps and avoid complications with adhesive materials. First, we'll tell you how to prepare your apartment for winter from the inside.

Budget-friendly methods for eliminating drafts

Some of the listed methods are familiar to everyone since childhood. Others can be called modern: they are considered more reliable, such technologies help solve the problem for several years at once. If the room is very cold, you will most likely have to combine several methods.

Newspapers and paper

This is the cheapest (and sometimes free) and elementary method of insulation. There are several variations of its use.

• Newspapers or paper are rolled into thin tubes, moistened and pushed into the cracks.
• The leaves are torn into small pieces and soaked in water to make a paste. It covers up the gaps.
• Several newspaper scraps are mixed with a glass of flour, two glasses of chalk and water until it becomes sour cream. The mixture is then used as putty.
• Paper (preferably white) is cut into strips 4-5 cm wide and glued to a soap solution in places from which it blows. Masking tape is used for the same purposes.

The method has disadvantages. Paper strips glued to wood are difficult to clean and sometimes come off along with the paint. The second problem is that you can only open the window for ventilation.

Wool and fabric

Another insulation for wooden windows, known for many years. Technical wool pushed into the cracks sharp object. In principle, you can use any rags you have at home. The fabric needs to be cut into strips 4-5 cm wide, wet, soaped, lightly wrung out and sealed all the gaps. The advantage of this method is that the fabric does not turn yellow like paper and easily comes off the frame. It will be just as easy to get cotton wool when spring comes. The only, but significant, drawback is that you won’t be able to open the window or you’ll have to do it all over again.

Film

New way sealing the room, which is easy to handle on your own. It will require a transparent polyester film. It serves as an additional air gap between the room and the street, transmits light well and is almost invisible. To create this thermal vacuum, you will need clear double-sided tape, a knife or scissors, a long ruler, gloves, a marker and a tape measure.

How to insulate wooden windows for the winter using film:

• Wash, dry and degrease the entire structure, including the frame and glass.
• If gaps have formed in the sashes, seal them. This is important, as you will reduce heat loss to a minimum.
• Apply tape around the perimeter of the frame.
• Measure its length and width.
• Place silica gel or other moisture-absorbing filler under the bottom bead. This is needed for.
• Lay out the film on the table. If it is double, first divide it into layers.
• Measure required quantity and cut with a tolerance of 1.5-2 cm.
• Remove the protective strip from the tape.
• Apply the film to the top of the frame and glue it in place.
• Gently press the material against the vertical sides and secure it at the bottom.

It is better to do all the work with cotton gloves so as not to leave greasy marks. Do not pull the film too tightly. But at the same time, do not allow it to bend towards the glass. Wrinkles can be smoothed out with a hairdryer without bringing it close to the surface. This method will help, but to achieve full results it must be combined with other methods.

Foam rubber, linen and sealing cords

It is not difficult to insulate windows with these fillers, and their efficiency is high. Foam tape with an adhesive backing is inexpensive, you will find it in any hardware store. It can be used to seal large gaps for 2-3 years. At the same time, you can ventilate the apartment not only through the window. The strip is glued around the perimeter of the sashes. Paper tape is glued to the top of it.

Linen cords are fixed to the surface in the same way as foam rubber, but with the help of nails or glue. The downside of this method is that when warm weather arrives, you will have to put in a lot of effort to remove such insulation.

Sealing cords are made from rubber, PVC, polyurethane and polyethylene foam. Most budget option- polyvinyl chloride and rubber seals, but in severe frosts they crack and break. There are also several forms of such a product on sale. Each of them is designed for gaps of different sizes.

• P-shaped - for medium ones.
• D-shaped - for big ones.
• E-shaped - for little ones.

The last two types of products are suitable for wooden frames. The installation principle is the same as with foam rubber. The difference is that some seals do not have an adhesive side and you need to buy glue or separately. Another technical feature of the material is that it cannot be used to seal holes at temperatures below -10°.

Sealant and polyurethane foam

Last of 5 budget ways, which can be used to insulate wooden windows. The sealant is ideal for sealing holes between wood and glass. At the same time, it is important to carefully select products in the store so that the dried glue remains transparent and does not turn brown.

Procedure

• Remove the glazing beads - thin parts that secure the glass. First pull out the bottom rail, then the side rails and finally the top rail. Elements may break, so stock up on new ones for replacement.
• Clean the groove from debris and grease, dry it and squeeze the sealant into it.
• Reinsert the glass and glazing beads.

You can coat the cracks on top without removing the glass. The temperature outside during work should be no lower than +5 degrees. In addition to silicone, the following are suitable for the same purposes:

• Paraffin. Heat it to a liquid state, pour it into the syringe and close the slots.
• Wood putty.
• A mixture of plaster and chalk. Mix them in a 2:1 ratio and dilute with water until the consistency of the putty becomes viscous.

Both sealant and foam are good because they block drafts for a long time and reduce heat loss in the apartment. Both materials are easy to apply. The only caveat is that it is better to do this with construction gloves and clothes that you don’t mind. This is especially true for polyurethane foam - it’s not easy.

Insulation of wooden windows using Swedish technology

The Swedish technology is so named because this country invented the EuroStrip seal that it uses. It can withstand frosts down to -50 degrees and is very elastic. This method of insulation allows wooden windows to be brought closer to technical specifications to double-glazed windows, without loss of attractiveness and ventilation ability. Other benefits:

• Sealing can be done at any time of the year.
• The amount of noise and dust is reduced in the summer.
• The seal will last 15-20 years, and the costs for it will not be very high.

We separated this technology from low-cost methods because it is more labor-intensive. According to the craftsmen, it is very difficult to do everything with your own hands and the process is more reminiscent of restoration than simple insulation. To work you will need: milling machine, seaming roller, pencil or marker, sealant, tools for dismantling the frame. All actions can be divided into several stages.

Material selection

EuroStrip is a tubular strip made of silicone, thermoplastic elastomer or rubber. The first option is more expensive than the others, as it is the most elastic, resistant to temperature fluctuations and durable. TEP is a budget option, but can be destroyed by external conditions. A rubber product is of better quality, but it is very rigid and more difficult to handle - it only fits into a well-prepared groove.

In addition, the seal is sold with different markings:

• E - for small gaps 2-3 mm.
• P - for gaps of 3-5 mm.
• D - for gaps 5-12 mm.

You can use analogues of material from other countries, but their manufacturers do not guarantee long term services. When purchasing, look at the expiration date of the product. If the date approaches, the tape may be unusable.

Surface preparation

First, the structure is inspected for defects: cracks, chips. Particular attention should be paid to the lower part and the places where the hinges are inserted. Further actions can be carried out only if the structure is well preserved. If not, it is modified.

Procedure:

• Replace worn elements.
• Remove gaps between the glass and the sash using putty.
• Remove the previous coating, dust and other contaminants, and repaint.
• Close the doors and check for any distortions or cracks. Mark areas that require treatment.
• Dismantle the structure and sand the uneven areas or build up the surface with slats.
• Replace outdated fittings.

Installation of seal

This is done in several steps:

• A groove measuring 3*5 mm is made on the prepared and leveled surface of the valves. It is cut at an angle of 45° along the entire perimeter of the structure.
• Immediately after cutting, remove the chips and clean the hole.
• The seal is placed into it using a roller, skipping the areas where the hinges are installed. The recommended distance from them is approximately 10 mm.

Experts advise rolling the roller backwards rather than forwards, so as not to stretch the tape. There is no need to apply glue to the grooves, since the product is securely held in it due to the herringbone fastening.

Final stage

The sash is put back and checked how the window opens and closes and whether the gaps have disappeared. After this, it is necessary to cover the joints of the glass and sashes with transparent or white sealant for additional insulation.

Watch a visual video tutorial on how to seal EuroStrip windows.

How to insulate old wooden windows from the outside for the winter

Sometimes after all the work the apartment continues to blow through. In this case, external sealing will be required. First of all, pay attention to the slopes. If there is a need to enhance thermal insulation, proceed according to the following algorithm:

• Remove existing trim.
• Prime the surface.
• Puff up the holes with foam.
• When the layer has hardened, cut off the excess with a knife and plaster it.

Instead of foam, you can use polystyrene foam. They attach it to it plastic mesh and mounting perforated tape. Afterwards a layer of plaster, primer and etc. are applied.

Low tides also require thermal insulation. They are foamed and a drainage bar is installed on them. It is mounted at an angle, and the edges are bent. The joint between it and the frame must be treated with sealant.

Now you know what to do if it’s blowing from the windows and you have to wrap yourself in warm clothes. The most effective of the methods listed is with seals. This applies not only to Swedish technology, but also to sealing with ordinary rubber cords without cutting grooves. Builders also recommend paying attention to the window sill, slopes and ebbs, as water can leak through them. most heat.

• Material prepared by: Nelly Kirgintseva