Spathiphyllum flowers do not open. Spathiphyllum does not bloom: why and what to do. Care during flowering
Spathiphyllium is very beautiful evergreen, which grows more than 30 cm in height, and is a real decoration of any interior. This flower is also called " women's happiness" - there is a sign that if unmarried woman If she puts such a flower in her house, she will definitely meet her man. Therefore, it is customary to give it to young girls. It is believed that this flower does not grow well in a house where husband and wife constantly quarrel.
This flower saturates the air with oxygen, improves mood and performance. Very often spathiphyllum is used when decorating offices and other non-residential premises. It is capable of absorbing harmful impurities that are contained in the air as a result of the use of low-quality building materials during repairs.
There are more than forty varieties of spathiphyllum, but only six of them are used for indoor cultivation. They differ from each other in size and shape. However, most often in apartments there are two types of this plant: Spathiphyllum profusely flowering and Spathiphyllum Wallis.
The dark green, oval, pointed leaves of this flower grow directly from the ground; the plant has no stem. The spathiphyllum flower is a narrow white petal growing from a long thin stalk, with a faint, pleasant odor. Because of the peculiar shape of the flower, spathiphyllum is also called “White Sail”.
Spathiphyllum blooms two to three times a year and produces several flowers at once. Flowering can continue from early summer until late autumn, after which the flower rests throughout the winter. However, there are often cases when, with proper care, spathiphyllum blooms in winter.
The flower loves warmth and does not tolerate drafts or sudden temperature changes. Optimal temperature for its cultivation fluctuates in the range of 18 - 23 degrees Celsius. The temperature in the room where spathiphyllum grows should not fall below.
Spathiphyllum is not one of the whimsical and capricious plants, and does not cause much trouble. However, it happens that spathiphyllum throughout long term It produces only leaves, but does not produce flowers. Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom? The answer to the question is very simple - in order for this flower to bloom profusely, you need to properly care for it.
Before answering the question why spathiphyllum does not bloom, and what to do with it to make it bloom, you first need to decide what parameters are important to observe in order for the plant to feel good in your apartment. What problems lead to the absence of flowers in your “female happiness”? There may be several reasons:
- too dry room;
- Not proper watering;
- insufficient lighting;
- improper feeding (it can be either insufficient or, conversely, excessive);
- improper planting (or replanting) of a plant.
Let's look at the components proper care behind the flower in detail.
Room too dry
The homeland of spathiphyllum is the tropics. In its natural habitat it grows in South America, East Asia and Polynesia. Spathiphyllum is located in tropical forests, in wet swamps, along river banks and streams.
It is clear that for this flower one of mandatory conditions For good growth and flowering there is sufficient, even increased, humidity. In dry air, spathiphyllum turns yellow, the sharp tips of its leaves begin to dry out, it stops blooming and eventually dies.
The risk of losing a flower is especially high in winter time when it comes heating season, and the air in our apartments is greatly dried out by central heating radiators.
Therefore, spathiphyllum can be kept in a tray filled with water, using the so-called “bottom watering”. You can simply put pebbles in the tray and pour water over them. Spathiphyllum loves it when its leaves are sprayed, and the more often you do this, the better the flower will feel. You can simply spray water around the flower, creating a suitable microclimate for it. Such manipulations are very helpful good growth flower.
By the way, be sure to take into account that spathiphyllum does not tolerate leaf polish, so dust accumulated on the leaves must be removed with a damp sponge or rag.
Improper watering
Drooping spathiphyllum leaves tell us that the flower lacks moisture. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature. You can’t just take water from the tap; it must sit for some time. Watering the plant should be quite plentiful, because the large leaves of spathiphyllum easily evaporate moisture, but you should not overwater the flower, it does not like it just like drying out the soil.
The flower needs to be watered abundantly in summer and autumn, but in winter it can be reduced. Spathiphyllum usually does not bloom in winter.
If you still overdid it and flooded your flower, let the water drain and do not water the spathiphyllum until the soil in the flowerpot dries out.
Insufficient lighting
This flower does not really like the bright sun; rather, it can be called shade-loving plant. Therefore, if your spathiphyllum is standing on a brightly lit window, and direct rays of the sun fall on it, it will not only not bloom, but most likely will die. In the sun, the soil dries out, the succulent leaves turn yellow, and a dark tint appears at the edges. What kind of flowering is there?
However, the north window is not very suitable for spathiphyllum. Although the flower tolerates a lack of light much better than its excess, however, in poor lighting, the leaves of the spathiphyllum will change shape and become more elongated. And flowering under these conditions will decrease, although it will not stop at all.
It is best to choose an eastern window for the spathiphyllum, or place it not on the windowsill, but somewhere near the window. Then there will be enough light for him.
Incorrect feeding
If, despite the choice right place with suitable lighting, and abundant, but not excessive moisture, the spathiphyllum still does not bloom, perhaps it does not have enough nutrients in the soil. Proper feeding is very important for its development in all periods, both before flowering, and during, and after the spathiphyllum has faded. And this feeding must be correct.
In spring and summer, during the period of active growth and flowering, you need to feed the flower about once a week. In winter, once a month is enough. It is best to fertilize spathiphyllum with special mixtures sold in flower shops.
Incorrect transplant
Spastiphyllum grows quickly and has quite a powerful root system, and if the container in which you planted it is small, the roots of the flower will quickly fill the pot with soil. Therefore, spathiphyllum requires transplantation as needed. And you need to replant the flower correctly, otherwise this circumstance will definitely affect its flowering.
Spathiphyllum is replanted every year early spring, each time picking up a pot a little larger than the previous one. Within a year it will be filled with roots.
It must be remembered that spathiphyllum reproduces by shoots, which are usually called “babies”. These babies grow quite quickly, but they do not like being forcibly torn away from the mother plant. Therefore, it is better to wait until the child is fully formed and transplant it into a separate pot. Then there will be no harm to the flower.
You need to pay attention to the fact that the “baby” that you plant from the mother plant has already formed two or three leaves.
Spathiphyllum loves light, loose, slightly acidic soil. It is in such soil that the flower feels good. You can add it to the soil charcoal or a little ash, spathiphyllum will like it, as well as a little rotted wood, which will add looseness.
The flower definitely needs good drainage so that its roots do not stagnate in water.
If you do everything correctly, spathiphyllum will bloom until late autumn. After the spathiphyllum has faded, gently cut the peduncle as low as possible. This will help avoid infections and diseases.
The conversation in this article will be about beautiful flower spathiphyllum, which decorates the houses and apartments of many housewives. We will look at the reasons for poor growth and flowering of spathiphyllum. We will tell you how to water, and how often the flower needs feeding. In this article you will learn how to make spatiphyllum bloom and much more.
Spathiphyllum or spathiphyllum - genus perennial plants the Araceae family, which grow in the tropics (Central and South America). IN wildlife Aroids grow in damp and swampy forests (near rivers and streams).
Did you know? The flower is called “women’s happiness” due to the fact that many single women met their love after spathiphyllum appeared in the house. This flower is also known for awakening “dormant” love and giving some women the opportunity to become mothers.
The main mistakes of improper care for “female happiness”
It’s nice to see a fragrant flower in your garden or on your windowsill, but the time comes when the spathiphyllum begins to bloom poorly for unknown reasons, the color of the leaves fades, and the plant appears sickly. In the article we will explain why spathiphyllum does not bloom.
Humidity
In the section above, you read that the homeland of spathiphyllum is subtropical forests, where it is always warm and humid. Based on this information, you need to recreate a similar microclimate in the room with the flower. This is achieved by spraying the plant, as well as installing a tray with wet moss or sand. You can simply pour water into the tray. Insufficient humidity can cause the spathiphyllum to begin to dry out.
Important! You need to humidify the air at any time of the year.
Plant nutrition
An important part of caring for a plant is feeding it. Spathiphyllum requires mineral fertilizer, which is applied in the spring. You can additionally feed the flower in the summer and during flowering. In winter, fertilizers are applied very rarely and in smaller doses.
Important! When the plant has not yet grown, fertilizers must be applied once every 2 weeks.
When your spathiphyllum has become an “adult”, fertilizing can be done once a month.
Dry air
Dry air is contraindicated for Spathiphyllum. It’s worth remembering this in winter, when heating systems very dry air. In addition to spraying, do not forget about the air temperature, which should not fall below 18˚C. The ideal temperature for the plant will be +22˚С.
Did you know? Spathiphyllum is also called the “house spirit”; it is believed that this flower is a Guardian Angel that scares away uninvited guests.
Incorrectly selected pot
Oddly enough, it is the pot that may prevent spathiphyllum from blooming. It has been noticed that the plant blooms only in a cramped pot, when the roots fill almost the entire space. This happens because spathiphyllum tries to take up all the free space in the pot, while growing the root mass. For this reason, all energy and reserves are spent on root growth, and there is no energy left for flowering.
The solution to the problem is a small (but not small) pot for the plant. The maximum diameter of the new “house” should not be more than 18-20 cm. It is also worth remembering that replanting is carried out at least once every 4 years. The signal for replanting will be noticeable old roots protruding from the ground.
Why spathiphyllum does not bloom, plant stimulation
If everything is created for a flower necessary conditions, but it still doesn’t want to bloom, then You can resort to stimulating the plant using several methods.
1. Increase in temperature. In summer, spathiphyllum can be made to bloom by raising the temperature to 24-25˚C.
2.Increasing illumination. At the same time, there is no need to leave the flower in the scorching sun, as it will get burned. You can place it in a place where the spathiphyllum will be in partial shade at the peak of the sun. One option is to install table lamp near the plant (however, do not get carried away so as not to burn the leaves).
We have looked at standard techniques, now let’s move on to “stressful” ones. To make a plant bloom, you need to place it for 20 days in stressful (unusual) conditions, namely:
- reduce watering (in the last week you can only moisten the leaves);
- place in the shade or semi-dark place;
- reduce the temperature to 16-17 ˚С.
This method is based on contrasting conditions. After almost the maximum permissible regime, the flower is returned to a favorable environment.
Important! The stress method is used if the plant was previously kept in good conditions and yet it did not bloom. Using this method will not harm healthy flowers.
What to do if the leaves turn yellow
A variety of factors can lead to spathiphyllum leaves turning yellow and the plant not blooming. We will look at the main reasons for the yellowing of leaves on a flower.
- Flower renewal. After spending a large amount of energy (during flowering or after an illness), spathiphyllum enters the dormant stage. For this reason, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. This way the plant regains its strength faster.
- Exposure to direct sunlight. If a flower stood in the scorching sun, its leaves could get burned and turn yellow. Evidence of burns is the appearance of dry brownish yellow spots on sheets. Such conditions are stressful for the flower, so you should not expect flowering in the near future.
- Diseases. When affected by a mealy worm, spider mite or thrips, the plant begins to hurt, and the yellowness of the leaves is one of the signs.
- Low air humidity. Since the plant is very demanding of moisture, its absence leads to yellowing of the leaves. This should be prevented so that the flower does not lose too much strength and dry out.
Why do the leaves of “female happiness” dry around the edges?
If the leaves of a spathiphyllum begin to turn black at the ends, the cause is too dry air. In this case, the ends dry out by only 1-2 mm. To get rid of this problem, you need to moisten the plant more or place it next to the aquarium.
What to do if the plant withers
It is impossible to say unequivocally why the plant withers. Let's look at the main reasons why spathiphyllum began to “mope.”
If the leaves of a spathiphyllum are deformed, then the reason must be sought in the lighting. With a lack of light, the leaves and petioles of the plant begin to stretch and become deformed. The lack of proper lighting is the answer to the question: “Why does spathiphyllum have small leaves?”
The forest tropics of Central and South America are home to this decorative culture. Home plant lovers and gardeners love this plant for its lush greenery and snow-white flowers.
The magnificent aesthetics of spathiphyllum allows this flower to please the eye not only at home, but also on the windowsill of the office. There is an opinion among people that this flower brings happiness, joy and love. And it gives this opportunity to a woman who wants to have children. This flower is also called a guardian angel, otherwise “house spirit”, “house amulet”, “women’s happiness”.
In order for spathiphyllum to please the eye, like all living things, it needs care.
It is necessary to provide the flower optimal conditions for growth and it will delight you with snow-white flowers
The main rule for the growth and flowering of this plant is humidity, because it originates from a tropical climate. The absence of flowers and yellowing of leaves in this plant occurs for various reasons:
- lack of moisture;
- direct exposure to sunlight (burn);
- cold;
- draft;
- lack of light;
- poor feeding or lack thereof;
- too much big pot.
Wrong potty
An important factor is the selection the right pot for a flower. Oddly enough, the pot does not allow spathiphyllum to bloom in the first place.
It should not be too tight or too wide, the best option there will be a flowerpot with a diameter of 16-18 centimeters.
If it is small, the roots will crawl out and dry out. And in a large pot, the spathiphyllum will devote all its strength to growing roots, but will have no strength left for flowering.
But we must not forget that a transplant should be carried out once every four years. The transplant should be done in the summer, next house for it it should be 2-3 cm wider than before. And yet, a necessary factor for growth and flowering, the temperature in the room should not be lower than 18°C and not higher than 20 degrees.
Lighting
The flower becomes pale under the sun's rays Spathiphyllum, at its core, is a shade-tolerant flower. Too much bright light or direct sun exposure to flowers and leaves is contraindicated. But the lack of light also affects the leaves and inflorescences; they begin to stretch and curl.
It happens that leaves and inflorescences do not open at all and lighting has nothing to do with it. Perhaps the reason is that with abundant watering, the soil has become too compacted, and the roots of the flower have nothing to breathe. So the soil is an important fact, and not just watering or climate.
Another special part of plant care is feeding. More suitable fertilizer– mineral, it needs to be applied in the spring, but it can be added additionally in the summer and always when the flower blooms. IN winter period Spaciphyllum practically does not need feeding.
Attention! When the flower is still in infancy, it needs to be fed twice a month, and when it grows a little, once a month.
Perfect good lighting flower without direct sunlight Watering
Lack of moisture can lead to the fact that this handsome man ceases to please us. Its leaves begin to turn yellow, turn black, dry out and fall off, flowering is completely absent.
In order to avoid this, you need proper watering, frequent spraying, as well as humidifying the air in the room where the flower is located.
In winter, it needs to be watered more often, as heating systems dry out the air more. You can place a container next to the pot in which to put cotton wool and fill it with water. The moisture will evaporate more slowly.
Watering should be carried out with filtered or settled water, always warm; there are drafts on the windowsills, the soil in the flowerpot may freeze, and watering cold water will be detrimental to the plant.
Watering should be moderate.
Blackening and darkening of foliage also occurs due to excess moisture. The soil begins to rot, the roots rot, and various diseases appear.
If this has already happened, then the flower needs to be replanted, the roots washed, treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and wood ash added to the soil in order to avoid the appearance of aphids and midges.
Correct transplant
It happens that spathiphyllum has little space in the pot, its leaves and flowers become too dense. If such a problem arises, then the flower should be transplanted into a wider pot. And don't forget about drainage. You can add pebbles or expanded clay to the bottom.
Young blooming spathiphyllum
The most simple reproduction of this ornamental crop, flower division is recognized. But it is worth paying attention to the fact that the shoot must have its own bush, like a core inside the large leaves. Only this “baby” will take root. And don’t forget the main thing: the flowerpot should not be wide or too high.
You can prepare the soil yourself
- from rotten soil
- wood ash
- expanded clay (pebbles)
To prevent diseases, the soil can be scalded with a strong solution of manganese. Doesn't like the flower acidic soil, so we make sure that the soil is peat-free.
“Little children” do not require special care, everything is the same as for adult plants.
This flower can also be propagated by seeds obtained from artificial pollination, but this is a very painstaking type of propagation at home, and therefore it has not taken root among gardeners.
Why does spathiphyllum not bloom, but only produce leaves?
If spathiphyllum does not want to bloom at all, but only grows leaves, there is an explanation for this.
- The pot is too big, as already mentioned.
- Direct sunlight. You need good lighting, but without the sun.
- Perhaps the flower is flooded.
- The temperature regime is not maintained.
- An old flower that is cramped in a pot needs to be divided and planted.
- Check the soil and roots - maybe there are pests or diseases there.
Why does spathiphyllum bloom green?
The common type of flowering in spathiphyllum is white, but there are also flowers from white-greenish, yellow-greenish to green, it all depends on the variety. The flowers have a greenish-white tint, such as the “Prelestny” variety, the “Cannoleaf” variety has a yellowish-green hue, and the “Wallis” variety has a snow-white color at first, but then turns green.
Natural greening also occurs in an old flower. It no longer needs to be bright or attract insects for pollination.
In white-flowered spathiphyllum, the flowers can turn green in the bright sun, while the foliage turns pale. In diffuse light or on an eastern window, the foliage is usually dark green and the flowers are snow-white. In winter, spathiphyllum can be illuminated with a phytolamp for seedlings.
Also, flowers can turn green due to improper feeding, both with a lack and with an excess of fertilizers.
Here is a review from the forum:
S-Anastasia:
I will share my experience about spathiphyllums. I have 3 pots with this flower, in each room there is a flower. One side of our apartment is very sunny, on the other there is sun only in the mornings. So, the spathiphyllums that stood on the sunny side bloomed well, but the flowers were green and the leaves were very pale, almost yellow. And the flower that stood in the shade bloomed rarely, the flowers were bright white, and the foliage was lush green. I know for sure that they have the same variety, because... I propagated it myself. This summer I moved all the flowers to a shady room. Those flowers that were pale were planted in small pots; over the summer they all recovered, now bright and juicy.
How to make it bloom?
And so, all the conditions for the flower have been created, watering, lighting, nice pot and soil, but still no flowering? Then it’s worth resorting to some stimulation of the plant, a shake, so to speak, to create a flower stressful situation, unusual conditions for him, but only for a short time:
- you can increase the room temperature to 26-28 degrees;
- increase the lighting by placing a table lamp next to the flower, but do not get carried away so as not to burn the leaves;
- reduce watering, while only moistening the leaves;
- put in a dark place;
- and vice versa, reduce the temperature to 10-12 degrees.
All these procedures should be carried out no more than three weeks. After this, put the flower in place and don’t forget to feed it, be sure to.
To make you happy with flowering, it is best to cut out old faded buds.
Problems of spathiphyllum, how to make it bloom: video
Spathiphyllum is a plant from the araceae family. This indoor flower well known to many housewives due to its abundant green foliage and original white blanket flowers. Spathiphyllum is an evergreen plant.
Indoor spathiphyllum is very spectacular and original flower. It looks great anywhere and can decorate any home.
Origin of the name
The name of the plant comes from a combination of two Greek words and is literally translated into Russian as "leaf with cover". The flower itself has quite unusual look. It is a yellow flower, abundantly covered with stamens, similar to a small corn cob, which seems to be covered on one side with a large sheet resembling a blanket. Such an unusual species gave birth to popular name- White sail.
Spathiphyllum flowers are not only white. They can be red and even have crimson or purple shade. The flowers have quite large sizes. When spathiphyllum blooms, as a rule, 3-5 flowers with hard, smooth leaves appear. Sometimes the leaves of the flower have white veins on their surface.
This flower also has another colloquial name - "female happiness". The flower received this name due to the belief that if it is placed in the house of an unmarried lady, she will very quickly find her soul mate and be happy in marriage.
They also say that such a flower does not tolerate scandals in the house. Its leaves become dull and lifeless, covered with spots, the plant withers and quickly dies.
Popularity of spathiphyllum
The birthplace of this flower is Central and South America. In nature different types spathiphyllum are found in damp and swampy forests, growing along rivers or streams.
Spathiphyllum has adapted well to life in a city apartment and is grown as a houseplant. It is very thermophilic and grows and develops well at temperatures above 18 °C.
At home, spathiphyllum is grown for its elegant white flowers. Its flowering time is from March to September. Especially when favorable conditions and timely care, spathiphyllum can delight the eye with its unusual colors a little longer.
Why does women's happiness not bloom?
It happens that a flower grows profusely, its leaves look healthy, but flowering never occurs. Any plant needs proper and timely care, a certain temperature at which it feels great and pleases the owner’s eye with its healthy appearance, bright leaves and abundant flowering. If this does not happen, it is obvious that something is being done wrong. Flowers appear when they are given attention and care.
To answer the question why a plant does not bloom, you need to analyze what mistakes might have been made in care, and whether it grows under the right conditions. There is no special secret here. Maybe something needs to be changed and fixed.
Errors in care are not easy to identify. Few people do them purposefully. Usually it seems that everything is being done correctly, but the flower stubbornly refuses to bloom.
How to make spathiphyllum bloom
The task of any gardener is grow healthy beautiful flowers
, help ensure that all plant care needs are met. Different houseplants have completely different needs and the conditions under which they feel best. Therefore, before purchasing this or that indoor flower, you need to read information about it and study the methods of care and the temperature regime it requires.
Spathiphyllum requires care, attention and consideration the following nuances when caring for it:
- Lighting and amount of daylight. Spathiphyllum is not very picky about such parameters. It doesn't need a lot of lighting. You don't have to pay much attention to the lack of sunlight. The plant thrives in shade or partial shade. But also to put it specifically in dark room not worth it at all. There is no need to expose the flower to abundant sunlight - it will react negatively.
- Temperature required for growth and development. Spathiphyllum is not particularly picky about temperature. Moderate suits him room temperature, the main thing is that it does not fall below 18 degrees.
- Humidity. This parameter is considered the main one for the flower. In the summer heat, spathiphyllum needs to be sprayed generously, at least no less two or three times during the day. You can lower the flower pot into a container with moistened sea pebbles.
- Watering. The flower requires abundant but careful watering. In this case, it is necessary to spill the soil very well and drain the water from the pan. The water required for watering spathiphyllum should not be very cold. The flower will feel very good if it is watered with water at room temperature.
- Soil. Light, nutritious, slightly acidic soil is suitable for planting spathiphyllum. It is best to purchase soil specialized for this plant, but it will also work ordinary soil For indoor flowers. You just need to make sure that there is not a large amount of peat there. Such soil is not suitable for planting spathiphyllum. It will dry out very quickly, damaging the roots of the plant, which may become diseased.
- Drafts. The plant does not tolerate drafts. To prevent it from getting sick, it must be protected in every possible way from hypothermia. One of the signs that a plant is in a draft is the blackening of its leaves and stems.
- Feeding. Like many others indoor flowers, spathiphyllum needs feeding. They are especially important for maintaining flowering. Spathiphyllum is fed once every two weeks throughout the warm season (from spring to autumn). With the onset of winter cold, the frequency of fertilizing is reduced to once a month.
The flower perceives well organic fertilizers
, but you can feed it with special complex fertilizers for flowering indoor plants, which are sold in flower shops or markets.
If all these rules are followed, the flower will certainly delight its owners with abundant blooms. But sometimes it seems that everything was done correctly, but the plant still does not bloom. The reason lies in unnoticed errors in caring for the flower.
The main signs of errors in care
There are obvious signs mistakes in flower care when it is obvious that something needs to be done differently:
- The leaves of the flower remain green and smooth, but their tips turn black and crumble, although the plant itself does not look sick. Possible reason the air may be too dry, untimely watering, or drafts.
- The leaves dry out and curl at the ends. This happens in case of hypothermia, when the plant has been exposed to drafts for a long time.
- The plant develops wilted, drooping leaves. This is a sign that the soil is excessively dry.
- The edges of the leaves turn yellow. This means that watering was done with too hard water.
- The leaves turn yellow and become pale, dry and limp. This happens when the plant was in direct sunlight.
- Dry, pale yellow spots appear on the surface of the leaves. This is a sign that the plant has received sunburn.
- The leaves turn yellow and remain soft. This happens when the plant has been watered too much and excess moisture has stagnated at the roots. Excessive amounts of liquid cause more harm to the flower than lack of watering. Flooded roots may begin to rot, and the spathiphyllum will die completely.
Hidden reasons for the lack of flower stalks
A plant may stop blooming for various reasons. and the most common of them can be:
Too hard water with harmful impurities does not promote abundant flowering. Water for irrigation must be settled. Do not water the plant with too cold water. It should be at room temperature.
Spathiphyllum should be watered if the soil has dried a few centimeters on the surface. At the same time, water abundantly so that the water completely saturates the earthen ball. Water a little at a time, just to wet it top layer soil is not enough. This can cause the soil to become sour and the roots to begin to hurt. Insufficient watering can also cause water starvation in indoor plant, especially if it is carried out in this way, systematically.
Presence of wilted flowers. After the plant has flowered, the wilted parts must be removed. Such actions stimulate the appearance of new flowers and prolong their flowering.
Ways to stimulate flowering
So that spathiphyllum pleases with abundant flowering, it is imperative to follow all the recommendations indicated and follow them. The plant needs to be monitored. You can keep a care diary where you can record all the manipulations performed with the flower and record the results that were obtained when carrying out certain actions. Then you can analyze what was done correctly and identify under what conditions the plant produced abundant flowering.
This approach will also be useful when choosing fertilizing and soil. When applying fertilizing, you can also notice which fertilizer suits spathiphyllum best, and which one is better to avoid. Thus, it is possible to achieve abundant flowering and admire for a long time.
Spathiphyllum is not a capricious plant, but sometimes it also causes trouble for its owner. Errors in care immediately affect the condition of spathiphyllum leaves. They may turn black, yellow, discolored, or lose turgor. All these symptoms clearly indicate problems in agricultural technology that need to be eliminated in order to restore the decorativeness and health of the plant.
Flower growers often ask why the tips of spathiphyllum leaves turn black and dry out. Let's try to figure it out.
Reason #1. Dry air
In this case, the ends dry out just a little - literally by 1-2 mm. At the same time, the rest of the leaf plate remains green or, in the zone bordering with blackening, acquires a yellowish tint. This type of spathiphyllum leaves the tips of its leaves drying out when grown in normal residential conditions. This phenomenon is especially pronounced in winter, when the heating is on.
The cause of dry tips of spathiphyllum leaves is dry air.
What to do?
To reduce the appearance of black tips of spathiphyllum to a minimum, you should increase the air humidity near the pot with the plant. For this it is recommended:
- spray spathiphyllum 2 times a day with warm, settled water;
- place the spathiphyllum next to the aquarium;
- place the pot with spathiphyllum on a tray with wet expanded clay;
- use a humidifier (the most effective remedy).
Reason #2. Bay
In this case, the spathiphyllum leaves turn black and dry a little differently. The defect affects a wider area and affects part of the leaf blade. The blackening zone is limited from the normal part of the leaf blade by a narrow yellow border.
Such spots “speak” of a bay and heavy, non-hygroscopic soil What to do?
Blackening of only the tips of the leaves indicates that the spathiphyllum is watered too often, but there is no rotting of the roots yet. In this case, helping the flower will consist of an adjusted watering regime.
Some gardeners decide to water only when the spathiphyllum leaves droop and look wilted in appearance. Sometimes this happens when the soil in the pot is almost completely dry! However, for spathiphyllum such seemingly cruel drying is in the order of things. Just water it and in an hour all the leaves will restore turgor. At the same time, an irrigation regime with constant severe drying is not a recommended option. That is, sometimes you can do this, but not systematically. This has a bad effect on the condition of the soil and small suction roots, which can die. Ideally, spathiphyllum should be watered after the soil has dried to 1/3 - 1/4 of the height of the pot.
Symptom No. 2. Spathiphyllum leaves dry along the edges, black drying spots appear in the central part of the leaf plate
Reason #1. Bay
Dark black or brown spots on spathiphyllum usually indicate a significant bay that accompanies the plant long time. Most likely, the flower is watered too often and there is a permanent swamp at the bottom of the pot, near the roots. It is not surprising that the roots in such a situation begin to rot, which leads to the leaves of the spathiphyllum turning black.
In severe flooding, spathiphyllum leaves become covered with dark spots along the edges. What to do?
First, adjust the watering (read about the recommended watering mode in the previous paragraph). If the spots continue to spread to more leaves or increase in size, it is necessary to inspect the roots and, if necessary, treat any rot found. This can be done according to the following scheme:
- Inspect the roots for rot. Rotten roots - yellowish or brown, soft; healthy roots are white and dense.
- Plant spathiphyllum in new, light soil with the addition of activated carbon (to prevent rotting of the cuts). There is no need to water immediately! The parquet soil is initially damp, this is enough to support the vital activity of the “amputated” roots.
- After 2-3 days, when the new soil has dried, water the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm, settled (ideally boiled) water with the addition of “Kornevin”.
Reason #2. Root cooling
Spathiphyllum leaves may turn black due to “wet” cooling. Let’s say you watered the plant in the evening, but it got cold at night and the roots froze.
“Wet” cooling of spathiphyllum roots leads to the appearance of brown and yellow spots on the leaf plate What to do?
Try not to make this mistake again. Remove spathiphyllum from a cold windowsill and do not water it in the evening. To quickly put the plant in order, spray it with Epin, a stress adaptogen that will help overcome unfavorable factors and increase the immunity of spathiphyllum.
Reason #3. Overfeeding with fertilizers (burn)
When burned by fertilizers, spots on spathiphyllum leaves appear quickly. Literally overnight, after watering with excess fertilizer, extensive brown or black areas appear on the leaves. After this, the entire leaf turns yellow and dies.
Burn spots from fertilizers or chemical stimulants What to do?
If you suspect overfertilization, you need to act quickly. Spathiphyllum roots should be washed in clean water and replant it in new soil.
Symptom No. 3. Spathiphyllum turns yellow
Spathiphyllum leaves often turn yellow, massively. This is very spoiling decorative look flower. Let's try to understand each specific situation.
Reason #1. Direct sunlight, sunburn
Spathiphyllum respects the so-called penumbra. That is, a large number diffused light, without direct sunlight. If you place a pot of spathiphyllum, say, on a southern or southwestern window sill, you will soon see that its leaves have lost their richness. green, burned out. Discolored leaves turn yellow and even turn white.
If the sun's rays were not only bright, but also hot, sunburn is possible. In this case, yellowing occurs in spots or stripes. Moreover, the burned parts become thinner, similar to parchment.
On southern windows, spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or white from high light intensity What to do?
If your spathiphyllum has turned yellow from excessive light, it must be moved to a darker place, without direct sunlight. Window sills of northern, northeastern, northwestern, eastern orientation are suitable for spathiphyllum. If all the windows in your apartment are sunny, it’s not scary. Place the spathiphyllum at some distance from the window, in the back of the room, to reduce the light intensity.
Reason #2. Lack of microelements, chlorosis
When spathiphyllum starves, the leaves turn yellow unevenly. For example, a “mosaic” color appears, that is, green spots remain on a yellow background or vice versa. The veins become discolored or, conversely, the veins remain green, and the leaf blade turns yellow. Yellowing of leaves against the background of green veins is a manifestation. All other uneven yellowing may be associated with a lack of a variety of microelements, in particular boron and calcium.
Lack of iron and other trace elements affects spathiphyllum leaves. They turn yellow and acquire a heterogeneous color What to do?
Yellowing of spathiphyllum due to starvation can be easily eliminated by fertilizing and enriching the soil. You need to do the following:
- Transplant the spathiphyllum into new, light, loose soil. The soil reaction is slightly acidic.
- Spray the plant with iron chelate - if iron chlorosis is diagnosed, or with a complex fertilizer containing microelements (boron, calcium, iron) - if there is a general lack of nutrients.
- 2-3 weeks after transplantation, feed the spathiphyllum with complex fertilizer.
- All this time, water the plant with well-settled or boiled warm water, spray with water 2 times a day.
Reason #3. Leaf senescence
If the lower old leaves of spathiphyllum turn yellow, then this is a natural process that does not require any intervention. Old leaves die and new ones come to replace them. Yellowing can only be considered a problem if the process affects young leaves.
Symptom No. 4. Wilting of spathiphyllum leaves
If the leaves of spathiphyllum have been grafted and hang like rags, you need to take immediate action. This symptom indicates that the plant's roots are not receiving moisture.
Reason #1. Drying the earthen coma
This is the most common reason. Spathiphyllum withers when the soil in the pot is too dry and requires watering.
This spathiphyllum needs to be watered urgently! What to do?
In order for the spathiphyllum leaves to regain turgor, it is enough to water the plant. In some cases, if the soil is very dry or peat is used as soil, simply watering from above may not have an effect. Then it is recommended to water the soil from above, as usual, and then immerse the pot with the plant in a pan (bucket, basin) with water for 15-20 minutes.
Reason #2. Heterogeneous soil
It happens that after watering the leaves recover for a while, and then wither again. Despite the fact that the soil still looks wet! This means that the roots of the plant, located inside the pot, are in a dense, non-hygroscopic lump of soil, which cannot be wetted by water during normal watering. Such a nuisance happens if, after purchase, the spathiphyllum was transplanted into a new one. flower soil with preservation of store-bought peat substrate on the roots. This substrate dries very quickly and turns into an impenetrable lump. At the same time, the new flower soil into which the transplant was made retains water well and remains moist after watering. But water does not reach the roots, since a dry lump of peat is held on them.
What to do?
To prevent the leaves from wilting anymore, store-bought soil will have to be removed. To do this, rinse the roots in water and carefully remove any lumps of peat from them. After this, transplant the spathiphyllum into homogeneous light soil.
Reason #3. Root rotting
Root rotting occurs due to flooding. In this case, the leaves wither in the same way as when they dry out. The only difference is that when drying, it is enough to shed the soil so that the roots absorb moisture and the leaves recover. If the roots rot, watering will no longer help; on the contrary, it will worsen the situation: the leaves will wither with a vengeance.
A sign of root rot: the soil in the pot is constantly wet, despite the fact that watering has been done for a long time. Rotting roots do not absorb moisture from the soil; therefore, the plant becomes sick and does not receive water and nutrients. Unfortunately, root rot is an insidious disease that is not always quickly diagnosed. A novice gardener, seeing that the spathiphyllum has wilted, will most likely begin to water it more and more. Until the flower is completely destroyed!
If after flooding the soil was not dried and an impermeable swampy layer formed at the bottom of the pot, then the spathiphyllum is doomed to rotting roots What to do?
If root rot is diagnosed, transplant the spathiphyllum into new soil with preliminary cutting off all rotting parts of the root. The transplant can be done as follows:
- Remove the spathiphyllum from the pot.
- Rinse the roots in water (in a bucket of water), carefully freeing them from the old soil.
- Cut all rotten roots with a clean knife to healthy tissue. Cuts - powder with crushed activated carbon or cinnamon.
- Leave the plant to dry for 2-3 hours.
- Plant spathiphyllum in new, light soil with the addition of activated carbon (to prevent rotting of the cuts). Be sure to add a good layer of drainage (2-3 cm at least) to the bottom of the pot to prevent stagnation of water in the lower part of the roots. There should be drainage holes in the bottom of the pot (if there are few of them, make a few more using a nail or a hot screwdriver). There is no need to water immediately! The parquet soil is initially damp, this is enough to support the vital activity of the “amputated” roots.
- After 2-3 days, when the new soil has dried, water the transplanted spathiphyllum with warm, settled (ideally boiled) water with the addition of Kornevin.
Symptom No. 5. Spathiphyllum does not grow
Spathiphyllum does not grow green mass: it does not produce new leaves or produce shoots.
Reason #1. Big pot
Remember that spathiphyllum first grows its root system, and then begins to develop leaves. Therefore, if you transplanted the plant into a pot that is too large, you will have to wait until the root system grows and entangles the lump of earth. Only after this the growth of green mass will begin.
This pot is too large for a young spathiphyllum. Need a transplant! What to do?
If you don’t want to wait several months, you will have to transplant the spathiphyllum into a smaller pot - 1-2 cm larger in diameter than the root system.
Reason #2. Inappropriate lighting
Spathiphyllum may slow down in growth if the lighting is too intense or, conversely, poor.
What to do? Move the spathiphyllum to a well-lit place, without direct sunlight.
Symptom No. 6. Spathiphyllum does not bloom
At suitable conditions spathiphyllum content can bloom 2-3 times a year. But the expectation does not always become a reality. And then the question arises: “Why doesn’t spathiphyllum bloom?” There may be several reasons for this.
Reason #1. Pot too big
Spathiphyllum will begin to bloom only after its roots have completely entwined the earthen ball in the pot. Therefore, if you transplanted a plant into a pot that is not the right size, you can wait several years for flowering.
What to do?
Choose a new pot for the spathiphyllum. For this representative of the araceae family, cramped, low pots are suitable. The diameter is 1-2 cm larger than the root system.
Reason #2. Lack of feeding, hunger strike
If the spathiphyllum has not been replanted for a long time, the soil in the pot has become depleted or initially did not contain the necessary nutrients, you may not expect flowering. In addition to the lack of flowering, starvation is also indicated by the general painful state of the plant, yellow or small leaves. There is another situation: spathiphyllum looks healthy, produces a large number of large green leaves and does not bloom. This means that the plant “fattens”, that is, it consumes a large amount of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering. We conclude: the soil in which spathiphyllum grows contains a lot of nitrogen, but there is a lack of elements responsible for flowering - potassium and phosphorus.
Spathiphyllum may look healthy, “fatten”, but not bloom if there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil and a lack of phosphorus and potassium What to do?
If the pot in which spathiphyllum grows normal sizes, but there has been no flowering for a long time - feed it with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (for flowering ones). For fastest effect you can spray with stimulants - “Bud”, “Houseflower”, etc.
Reason #3. Lack of lighting
Spathiphyllum - shade-tolerant plant. The term “shade-tolerant” means that the plant is not exposed to direct sunlight. But! And deep shadow is also useless. For spathiphyllum you need to choose a well-lit place, with a large number diffused light. Spathiphyllum will not bloom in full shade.
What to do?
It is necessary to move the spathiphyllum from deep shade to a more illuminated place.
Symptom No. 7. Spathiphyllum flowers turn green
Some time after the appearance of a new flower, you notice that its snow-white original color takes on green tint? All spathiphyllums behave this way. The fading covers of flowers are painted in greenish tones. Naturally, this feature does not require any adjustment.
