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Recommendations for installation and installation. Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for installation and installation of AOGV what is it

Company manufacturer:

Description Gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy:

Purpose: For heating
Fuel type: Natural (mainline) gas or liquefied (cylinder) gas

Boiler independent of electricity
Boiler automation: Gas valve ZhMZ
Power, kW: 11.6
Dimensions: H 855 mm x W 315 mm x D 412 mm
Maximum operating pressure: 1.5 atm. (Use open expansion tank)
Boiler tank volume: 30 l
Chimney diameter: 117+-2 mm
Diameters of connection fittings:
- gas - 1/2""
- inlet/outlet of the heating part - 1 1/2""
Gas consumption no more than 1.3 m3 per hour
Liquefied no more than - 0.43 kg per hour
Weight: 35 kg
Consumable parts for this model:
- thermocouple for boilers AOGV-11.6 and AKGV-11.6 Economy produced until May 2004 -
- thermocouple for boilers AOGV and AKGV - 11.6 Economy release since May 2004 -
- the same for all models
- for boilers AOGV and AKGV-11.6 produced from September 1, 2000
Our recommendations:
When repairing the unit, look
When selecting spare parts, look
Please read in the heating system
We strongly recommend installing on open source systems. expansion tank
Before installing on the system, please read
Basic knowledge
Answers to frequently asked questions when purchasing

Distinctive features of the Gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy:

Working and practicing repairs, we give you eight points to which other boiler manufacturers simply will not give an answer, because the time is not the same, and the money is not the same, and the conditions are not the same, and people are also already “withered away” so that they can take responsibility for their solve these kinds of issues.

Agree that this is a real advantage for boilers from the Zhukovsky plant:

1. Availability. The boiler is produced by us. 100%.
2. Availability of spare parts. Here we already answer directly. There are and will be spare parts. 100%
3. There are NO requirements for the heating system. No need to download or configure. If necessary, then expansion tank open type installed under the ceiling. I poured water with a ladle and it works. 100%
4. There are no requirements for the qualifications of the master. No. Any person will start the boiler. Anyone can fix it. 100%
5. Does not require mandatory electricity, stabilizers and pumps. It works by gravity. The boiler automation does not require electricity. Very relevant. 100%
6. There is no maintenance of either the system or the boiler itself. There is no service where you just have to run, otherwise there will be no guarantee. Once you do everything right and calm down, it will last for 15-20 years. 100 %
7. Practical experience the work of the plant itself, gas facilities, and ordinary people: fathers, mothers, grandmothers and grandfathers with such boilers are very large, since the 50s. Therefore, both the Zhukovsky cauldron itself and our experience of working with it are a national treasure and a treasure of time. And this should not be forgotten. 100%
8. Converting the boiler, if desired, to use liquefied gas is so simple, even primitive and consists only of screwing the liquefied gas nozzles into the burner and nothing more. 100%

Taking into account all the above points, we advise you to always work with us for the simple reason that our attitude to this work is exactly what you need. Thank you!

Our comment:

We present the Economy boiler with the ZhMZ gas valve. The design of the 2016 boiler remains unchanged.

The boiler delivery set includes: the device itself, a draft breaker, a thermometer, valve diaphragms (a spare part for the gas block), a shield, a product passport. The draft sensor itself is located on the top of the boiler in a special recess in the body (it’s not at all difficult to notice). On the inside of the door of each device there is a sticker with its number and type. The number indicated on this sticker must match the number indicated in the product passport when it was sold. The top of the boiler is covered with a lid in which small holes are visible - these are turbulators. Due to them, maximum efficiency is achieved for a given boiler design. The heating connections come out from the back of the boiler, horizontally.

Both pipes for connecting to the heating are 1 1/2"". The automation consists of a gas supply valve to the burner and a boiler control unit.

What is a gas boiler AOGV? The abbreviation means that this is a gas water heating device, that is, a gas boiler for home or apartment heating systems. From conventional boilers that are installed in individual systems heating, gas boilers AOGVs are distinguished by the fact that they have complete energy independence (the ability to fully operate in autonomous mode, without connecting to the electrical network), are equipped automatic system(ACS) monitoring and control, which can, without human intervention, control equipment modes, air draft controllers and flame strength in the wick.

Features and differences of AOGV from other gas heaters

Versatility and autonomy are the main advantages of a boiler in a private home. The versatility lies in the fact that the equipment can operate not only from a centralized gas pipeline, but also from bottled gas - just change the type of burner. In addition, in the absence of electricity, the electronic control system successfully replaces mechanical automation– this is complete energy independence and autonomy.

For housing of different sizes, you can select boilers of the appropriate power, and this parameter is reflected in the marking of the unit: thus, the brand of boiler AOGV 17 stands for gas-fired water heating unit with a maximum power of 17 kW.

Heat-generating elements of the unit: automation devices and sensors, combustion chamber, jacket (heat exchanger), air duct (chimney duct). In the Russian Federation, the main suppliers of this autonomous heating equipment are the Borinsky and Zhukovsky plants - all Zhukovsky and Borinsky aogv are produced in a floor-standing version. Borinsky plant produces heaters floor type in a rectangular case, with automation located in the same case at the back. All automation is installed in different versions and configurations - this can be domestic mechanical and/or electronic equipment, as well as automation made in Europe or America.

The Borinsky plant produces boilers with a rated power of 7, 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in two modifications - a single-circuit boiler and a combined unit with two circuits, and this allows heating in economy mode even small houses with a total area of ​​up to 70 m2. This feature demonstrates the advantage of Borin units over Zhukov units, which are designed for large areas.

A copper thermocouple is the next main element of the circuit, which brings into operation solenoid valve, shutting off the gas into the combustion chamber when the wick extinguishes. The combustion chamber, which is equipped with gas boilers for private houses of the AOGV brand, is open, which means that air to support combustion enters the chamber from the surrounding atmosphere. Such a design of the installation scheme should provide for the presence of both natural and forced ventilation in a private house. But if there is a good natural traction electric fan can only be used in extreme cases.

The coolant jacket is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, above the burner. Both circuits (if the AOGV boiler is double-circuit) have their own separate heat exchanger with separated flows of water and/or coolant.

Zhukovsky Machine-Building Plant produces AOGV boiler with rated power of 11, 17, 23 and 29 kW in three versions: economical heater (economy class), universal boiler (universal class), and comfort class.

The automation in these units differs depending on the configuration and country of origin. All boilers have piezoelectric burner ignition, which corresponds to the definition of heater autonomy. Depending on the power of the device, you can find out from the markings in the passport how much area a particular unit can heat.

Heater parameters

The high efficiency of the AOGV - up to 92% - means that the installation of this equipment will bring maximum heating efficiency, and this is thanks to original design shirts. Boilers can operate in heating systems with forced or natural circulation coolant, provided that the pressure in the system is not less than 1.4 Atm. Such conditions can ensure a liquid temperature of +40/+90 0 C.

The disadvantage of this equipment can be considered too much power - even the lowest-power boiler produced by the Zhukovsky plant is designed to heat an area of ​​at least 200 m2, which means that in small houses its installation will be impractical and expendable.

The burner in any modification and brand of boiler is made of of stainless steel, so its durability is guaranteed. The jacket for hot water supply is made of copper, the body of the unit is covered with polymer or powder paint. Standard automation has temperature sensors and regulators to control the temperature of the coolant and prevent overheating of the boiler. The package also includes a thermocouple that controls gas flow and an air flow stabilizer, which serves to compensate for differences in air pressure during gusts of wind, and shuts off the gas in calm weather.

Names	AOGB-11.6	AOGBK-11.6	AOGB-17.4	AOGBK-17.4	AOGB-23.2	AOGBK-23.2	AOGB-29	AOGB-35	AOGBK-35
Indicators
Rated power, kW	11,6	11,6	17,4	17,4	23,2	23,2	29,0	29,0	35,0
Consumption of main or bottled gas
Trunk, m/h	1,19	1,19	1,75	1,75	2,32	2,32	2,95	3,56	3,56
Balloon, kg/h	0,865	0,865	1,215	1,215	–	–	–	–	–
Heated area, square meters	120	120	100-200	100-200	100-250	100-250	150-300	150-400	150-400
Efficiency ≥ 90%	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0	90,0
DHW consumption when heating water at 35°C, liters per minute	–	3,5	–	3,5	–	7,0	–	–	10,0
Thread on fitting, inches	1/2	1/2	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4	3/4
Inlet/outlet
To the heating system	1/2	1/2	1/2	1/2	2	2	2	2	2
TO DHW system	–	1/2	–	1/2	–	1/2	–	1/2	–
Diameter of gas outlet pipe, ≥ decimeters	1,15	1,15	1,25	1,25	1,38	1,38	1,38	1,38	1,38
Dimensions, cm
Height	86,5	86,5	86,5	86,5	85,0	85,0	85,0	85,0	85,0
Width	41,0	41,0	41,0	41,0	33,0	33,0	38,0	38,0	38,0
Depth	41,0	41,0	41,0	41,0	55,0	55,0	55,0	55,0	55,0
Weight, kg	43,0	47,0	49,0	52,0	56,0	72,0	65,0	80,0	82,0
In models with a power of 23.2 29 and 35 kW - rectangular housing

Insertion of AOGV into heating

Professional installation gas heater in a private house it costs about 1.5 times less than the average cost of a boiler. Any unit can operate as in, while the energy independence properties are preserved in any case.

Standard installation with sealed circuit - explanation:

1. The coolant flows from the heater to the batteries with necessarily installed air vents;
2. On the return pipe, before entering the boiler, a circulation pump is installed, and a coarse filter is installed in front of it;
3. The expansion tank cuts into the system before the pump.

In open-type heating systems, the expansion tank itself serves as an air vent, so it is not necessary to install valves on all radiators. The tank is cut into the coolant supply pipe, above the gas boiler, at the highest point of the pipeline; it is also possible to cut it into the return pipe. In systems with natural circulation of the coolant, it is necessary to ensure the required slope of the pipes (2 0 per 10 linear meters) so that the liquid does not stagnate in the system, but circulates freely.

Advantages of AOGV and management

When deciphering the abbreviation, the advantages of the units become clear, namely:

1. Simple and easy control of the heating gas unit allows you to organize safe and affordable control of the coolant temperature within the specified parameters;
2. All devices, parts and components are manufactured using high-precision technologies, but what is this in practice? This is an absolute guarantee of safety and reliability of operation gas equipment. In addition, some models have manual gas shut-off and coolant temperature adjustment;
3. All AOGV brands are non-volatile, that is, they are not tied to electrical networks and are completely autonomous;
4. Piping in the heating system can be done with any pipes - polypropylene, cast iron, steel or metal-plastic;
5. The heat exchanger (jacket) is usually made of copper, which ensures long service life;
6. Pressure drops in the gas pipeline do not affect the stability of operation;
7. A high degree of thermal protection ensures maximum heat transfer of the unit and the system as a whole.

Installation of AOGV is advisable only in private residential buildings, and not in apartments because of their high power and large sizes.

The writing of this publication was prompted by a chain of events that forced me to try my hand at self-service gas boiler. Let me note right away that this is not exactly an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts presented speak, on the contrary, about the initial complete inexperience of the user. But perhaps the information presented will help those who read it avoid such mistakes.

The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the Internet, I had to face the fact that there are no intelligible step by step instructions It’s not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective advice on forums. The factory instruction manual covers many problems rather dryly and does not provide much clarity, and some important aspects are practically missed in it, which, in principle, led to the situation about which we'll talk. So, what caused and how did you clean the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 with your own hands?

How it all began

B purchased own house we moved in in September 2002. There was (and remains) a heating system, but then it was organized on the principle of natural circulation. Boiler room - in separate extension, equipped according to all existing rules. An old cast iron boiler with gas burners, some, as I remember now, incredibly large in size, also with “homemade” masonry from fireclay bricks inside. It was complete ruin: every month in our not-so-cold winters (Moldova, Transnistria) the meter added 800 cubic meters!

In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We chose the AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the weight good reviews about this model from friends. At the same time, a circulation pump was installed. The results were not long in coming - the next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all rooms. And monthly gas consumption has dropped by more than three times! – we usually fit in 220 – 270 cubic meters.

Prices for gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter 2008-2009, when the next “gas war” was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - the house was not hot, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many people at home have a gas valve button that is constantly connected to them - no problems with the automation have simply appeared during the entire period of operation.

Inspector visits gas industry in our city they are held regularly. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the main pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The deficiency has been corrected.

This year the cold snap came a little early, and already at the beginning of October it was decided to start the boiler at the very minimum power. But a problem emerged - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating for the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.

A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch lit up immediately, but was weak) was observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own risk) managed to spray this “jet” with a can of carburetor cleaning fluid through a long curved tube. After the liquid had evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter, throughout the entire heating season There were no more problems.

Last year we managed to do without any disassembly - the nozzle was cleared of such carburetor fluid

But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect was even the opposite. The igniter stopped lighting altogether.

I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas assembly with burners (and at that time I didn’t even know how accessible it was). I tried unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block and blowing it out using a car pump. Useless. There is nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to carry out mechanical cleaning ignition nozzles.

The boiler is, of course, tied up, the system is full. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this was very scary at first - how to dismantle the gas unit? I didn’t find any sensible advice, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this unit rotates about the central axis - the inlet gas pipe.

Since operations of any significant scale were not expected, I did not take photos at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was disassembled again. But the essence remains the same.

• So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the “situation” I initially used a mirror placed underneath), something like this appears:

The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. Figure 1 shows the entrance of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flange of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate at the vertices of a regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located slightly to the left of the ignition window.

The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you stand facing the ignition window).

The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of the vertical tubes going down to the pan.

Prices for gas boilers

a gas boiler

• After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fastening or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be removed from engagement with the casing flange. As a result, it turned out that there is only one groove, and it is located in the area of ​​the third hook (as shown). To get to it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is shown with a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pan moves.
• I figured out the principle of fastening. But in order to rotate the pan and remove the burner block, naturally, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, igniter tube and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
• First of all, I checked again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was shut off.

• Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

1 – gas supply tube to the igniter torch. Key for 12.

2 – tube with thermocouple contact. Key for 12.

3 – gas supply pipe to the main burner. The key is 27.

The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe was removed. Checked it - excellent condition. On the flare tube - the gasket remained on the tee fitting, but also - it is clear that it is not worn out, and will still serve quite well.

• After disassembling this unit, the pan turned quite easily, and through the groove closest to the tubes, the holder came out of engagement with the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly push it towards ourselves - and the remaining two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

The photo shows the removed pan, but I’ll make a reservation once again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much “cleaner”. Further, in the text it will be clear why so much attention is paid to this.

• I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, without signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
• Then he moved on to the “culprit” of this whole undertaking - the ignition torch nozzle. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, resisted at first, but after treatment with WD-40 they still worked. I removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner and got to the nozzle.

The brass nozzle itself was covered on top with a light white coating (like scale), and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It’s also okay - I took a thin copper strand from the loose cable and cleaned the hole. To guarantee, I also blew it under pressure with a pump from the side connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!

• At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with “zero” sandpaper: there was a very light layer of oxide there - it had accumulated during the summer period of inactivity.
• I carefully reassembled all the components in the reverse order. I struggled a bit with reinstalling the pallet, but then I got the hang of it.

You must first progressively, without distortion, lift this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the casing flange. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards you, give a slight downward tilt so that the opposite edge of the pan rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!). Then, when moving the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they fit onto the casing flange. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it fits into it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.

• I installed all the tubes in place, having first checked the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. Tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, I very carefully, literally barely touching it, cleaned the contact pads with a “null” pad. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations I read, was tightened not with a wrench, but by hand, using only finger force.
• I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of leakage.
• I tried to start the boiler. The wick lit up perfectly - with an even flame, “washing” the bend of the thermocouple. Literally after 15-20 seconds the gas valve activated. I waited a couple of minutes, then turned on the gas supply to the main burner - it burned smoothly, without a pop. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites just as normally.

That's it, I set it to approximately required level heating, closed the flap on the ignition window, and left, full of pride for the job successfully done.

Little did I know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!

Find out by studying the main evaluation criteria in a special article on our portal.

Unexpected problem

For several days the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not go out, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - it was not the smell of gas in its pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, the impression began to develop that, according to the feelings of those at home, there was a lack of warmth.

A couple of times the boiler went out at night - for no apparent reason. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window covered with a shield. A fairly large section of the metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burnt down to “pure” metal.

Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite it. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upward, but also tends into the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.

I see - this is a clear sign the fact that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases encounters some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. There is soot everywhere, even on the edge of the ignition window - I have never before gotten my hands dirty when igniting, but now black spots appear on my fingers, which, by the way, are very difficult to wash off even with warm water and soap.

But the question remains unclear - why? After all, in so many years we have never encountered such a problem.

I went back to the forums to look for the reason. And on one of them I came across useful advice– this picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without supply extra air. I began to understand more closely the design of my boiler, and discovered something that I simply had not paid attention to before. This is a clamp-shaped valve at the entrance of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pan. There on the pipe there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.

I ran to check: it’s true – the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the “material parts” led to the fact that I completely did not pay attention to this nuance. And in the process of disassembling the burner block, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which the air supply was blocked.

I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the “crown”, naturally, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.

Cleaning the boiler

It is clear that to carry out cleaning I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus, remove the top cover of the boiler.

• I had to struggle a bit with removing the umbrella that goes into the metal part of the chimney. The fact is that the boiler room itself is made of brick, of the original type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are built into it - from the boiler and, higher up, from the gas water heater.

I embedded the boiler pipe myself, did it in good time, and it “fits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a slight backlash. But in the end it worked - we managed to lift it enough to have enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture that emerged was very colorful.

Deposits of soot are visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-condensate collector there is a soft, loose layer of soot about 10 millimeters thick.

• To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the lid by plates, which are screwed with two self-tapping screws (shown by blue arrows in the illustration above). But no matter how much I twisted these screws, they turned in place without moving upward even a millimeter. In the end, I gave up on the matter and decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first use a 14mm wrench to unscrew the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

I immediately checked the paronite gasket - it was “alive”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.

• Then, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed to the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.

The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.

But the other two showed “fierce resistance.” They simply did not want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 treatment, nor tapping helped - they stood motionless.

In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but still with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under countersunk”.

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self-tapping screws

No problem - I cut it very carefully. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these mounts with roofing screws with a hexagon head - in case of future boiler cleaning. It holds even better, and unscrewing it won’t be a problem.

• The lid fit tightly, and I even had to tap it a little from below - resting a wooden block against the lower edge. After that she took off smoothly.

On the back of the lid there are clearly visible marks that were left due to improper passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler casing, then converging towards the central opening of the chimney.

Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather heated the boiler room rather than giving off heat to the system. It is better to remain silent about the safety of such functioning.

• The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered with a lid on top. It is fixed and pressed tightly against him using special fastenings– metal wedges (in the illustration above they are shown with yellow arrows). These fasteners are very easy to remove.

I thought they were spring - nothing like that. These wedges are made of ordinary mild steel, and their antennae are bent in the same way as ordinary cotter pins. They are easily brought to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.

• In the same way, removed all the stoppers and then removed the cover. And I was horrified...

This small gap between the heat exchanger and the lid, in which gas flows from three channels must be combined into one central one to exit into the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.

• Now it is necessary to remove the gas flow turbulator inserts from the heat exchanger channels. They gave way up without much resistance when I picked them up with pliers.

The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot on the turbulator blades is impressively thick!

At the same time, I immediately look at the condition of these vertical cylindrical channels. The picture matches...

Naturally, even if we “bracket out” the draft problems, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler operation with the heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.

• Next, I removed the boiler pan with the burner block - I have already described how this operation is performed above.

• That's it, you can proceed directly to cleaning all nodes. For this operation, a regular plastic brush for bottles was purchased from a hardware store - it will be suitable for vertical channels. Tied it with duct tape wooden slats to go through the channels along their entire height.

I know that the “classic” for home crafts is blue electrical tape, but I only had white :)

And to clean other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.

• I start cleaning from the top plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
• Then I move on to cleaning the channels. The soot comes off the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “harden”. Characteristically, it is very oily.

• After cleaning the boiler itself, I move on to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to spread excess dirt in the boiler room, I move all this action to the yard.

The burner itself was clean this time too, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off. At the same time, I immediately lightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - it won’t hurt.

• After completing the cleaning operation, I proceed to reassembling the boiler. First, I installed the burner block in place - this has already been described above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.

And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the valve air channel. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I don’t know why, though), but when reverse installation It turned out that it was made of mild steel and did not have any springing properties. After installation, it began to dangle and simply slide down. I had to make a small improvement - drill holes in the “ears”, and after putting the flap on, tighten it slightly with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in the given position, but moving it is not difficult.

The illustration shows that the air holes are half open.

• The next step is to put the turbulators in place.

Installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the widening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangential to the circle.

• The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The lugs for the clamps fit into the slots in the cover.

I insert metal cotter pins into the eyelet slots and lightly tap them from the back so that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that’s it, the lid is securely fastened.

• Next, I replace the top cover of the boiler. Get your bearings with her correct position The holes from the only self-tapping screw that came out normally help. In my case, the traction sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.

• I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slide it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. The three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler lid, and the cut out semicircular window will be placed above the passing temperature sensor tube.

• Naturally, after this all connections were checked for leaks.
• I move on to the long-awaited moment - starting the boiler. The wick caught fire immediately, and within 15 seconds the magnetic valve activated. So far so good.

I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed clearly upward, which is what needed to be proven!

• I tried to “play” with air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without red or orange shades. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the pilot flame is stable, and the burner lights up immediately and almost silently.

Two weeks have passed since then - there have been no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not give us any unpleasant surprises.

And for myself I decided the following:

• Be more attentive to the details of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.
• The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.

Find out how to produce by studying the mandatory requirements in a special article on our portal.

The author is aware that such work, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should not be regarded as a guide to action, but only as a story about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and required their urgent elimination. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.

Price 10,900 rubles.

Boilers of this type are designed for heating and hot water supply of residential and office premises with heat losses up to 2900 W (room area up to 300 m2, depending on the model and thermal insulation of the room). As a rule, such devices are used for heating private sector houses.

The boilers operate on natural main gas GOST 5542-87, pressure 635 - 1764 Pa.That is, the devices are designed for our Russian standards and are maximally adapted to large gas pressure drops in our long-suffering gas network. The range of maintaining the water temperature in the device is 50 - 90 °C.

Overall dimensions of the device are 1179/420/533 mm (height/width/depth), in horizontal section the device has round shape. Automation produced by JSC "MASHZAVOD" (does not require power supply, which is very important in N A Sh AND X operating conditions) . Plate type heat exchanger(which provides high efficiency, not less than 85%) . The device is intended for operation in systems with natural coolant circulation(does not require circulation pump) , top wiring and atmospheric expansion tank. To improve water circulation conditions in heating system It is preferable to install the device in basements or semi-basements below the level of heating devices (radiators).

Boilers of this type have been produced at JSC "MASHZAVOD" for more than 30 years and have proven themselves well in Ukraine and neighboring republics former USSR. These boilers became the prototype for the creation of gas boilers "ZhMZ" (Zhukovsky Machine-Building Plant).

These boilers differ from Dani boilers in the following parameters:

Automatic safety system "Eurosit" with built-in pressure stabilizer

Traction sensor with gold-plated contacts "Campini"

Low flame stainless steel burner "Polidoro"

temperature sensor

Characteristic	AOGV-11.5
Rated power, kW	11,5
Heated room area, m2	35-120
Water consumption in hot water supply mode when heated at 45 ° C, not less, l/min	-
Gas consumption, no more, m 3/hour	1,45
Efficiency at continuous operation, no less, %	85
Weight, kg	48
dimensions
- height, mm	1179
- width, mm	420
- length, mm	533
Thread diameter on the inlet pipe of the gas pipeline of the device	G 1/2-B
Thread diameter of heating system pipes	G 2-B
Thread diameter of hot water supply system pipes	-