Write why wood is planed. Wood planing. Manual planing. Tools for work
Objective of the lesson: Teach students the techniques of planing wood, familiarize students with the rules safe work when planing.
Tasks:
Educational: Developing wood planing skills in students, teaching students safety rules when planing wood.
Developmental: Developing students' cognitive interest in the field of woodworking, improving students' techniques and skills in working with carpentry tools.
Educational: Instilling in students a love of work and respect for working people, instilling independence, self-confidence, instilling a technological culture, career guidance for students.
Lesson type: combined.
Teaching methods: explanatory-illustrative, explanatory-demonstrative, visual, verbal, method of developing skills, method of consolidating the studied material, method of assessing knowledge, skills and abilities.
Reproductive - instruction, practical work, independent work.
Inductive - from simple to complex.
Form of study: frontal, group, individual.
Interdisciplinary connections: physics.
Material and technical equipment of the lesson: workbenches, planes, measuring tool, fixtures, lumber.
Visual aids: product samples, safety tables.
Objects of labor: decorative board.
Career guidance: professions of joiner, carpenter, planing machine operator.
New terms and words: Sherhebel, clad.
Progress of the lesson.
I .Organizational point:
Mutual greeting
Checking the readiness of students' workplaces.
Monitoring student attendance.
II .Setting the goals and objectives of the lesson.
III. Studying new material.
Plan for presenting new material:
I.Basics of wood cutting.
A) Planing.
C) Adjustment of planes.
II.Safety precautions when planing wood.
III
A) Planing is cutting a layer of wood from a workpiece using planes to obtain specified sizes, shapes and smooth surfaces.
C) Planing tools and plane knives.
A plane consists of a wooden or metal block, a knife, and a wedge. The main part of the plane is the block. The working body of the plane is a steel knife.
Depending on the purpose, planes have different design knife and are divided into sherhebel, single knife, double knife and jointer.
For initial, rough planing, a sherhebel with a narrow and rounded knife is used. This makes it possible to plan along, across, and diagonally the fibers without much effort and to cut without much effort thick layer wood However, the surface of the workpiece is uneven.
The term "sherhebel" is a modified German word that translates as "rough cutting plane."
For preliminary finishing planing along the grain, as well as after processing with Sherhebel, a plane with one knife is used.
For finishing planing of an end-face, curled, rough surface with simultaneous breaking of chips using a chipbreaker, a plane with a double knife is used.
To level the finishing surface large size(smooth planing) use a jointer.
The knives are made of two-layer steel: the main layer is steel grade 30, the cladding layer is made of steel grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС.
The term "cladding" is a modified French word that translates as "to impose, to cover." The cladding layer is more resistant to corrosion.
C) Adjustment of planes.
Before you start planing, you should find out whether the plane is set up correctly. They lift it up with the sole to eye level and watch how the knife is placed. When adjusted correctly, the knife can be seen above the sole without distortion. For Scherhebel it should protrude by 1...3 mm, for other planes - by 0.1...0.3 mm without distortion.
D) Grip of the tool and working posture when planing.
The metal plane is held by the handle with the right hand, and the horn-handle with the left. Wooden plane Grasp the stop tightly with your right hand, and hold the horn with your left. Hold the jointer with your right hand by the handle, and place your left hand on top of the block.
Stand at the workbench half-turned towards it, tilting your body slightly forward. Place the foot of your left foot approximately parallel to the edge of the workbench lid, and your right foot at an angle of 70° to it.
E) Planing techniques and control.
Planing begins from the base side of the workpiece, observing the correct grip of the tool and working posture. Planing should be done in the direction of the wood grain, in a straight line, across the entire span of your arm, sending the plane forward with force. Leave your body motionless. At the beginning of the movement, it is pressed harder with the left hand, in the middle - with both, at the end of the movement - with the right. When processing the end, plan with a plane first from yourself to the middle of the workpiece, and then from the other edge of the end towards you.
Perform planing with a plane in several stages, planing one section after another. Use a jointer to process the entire length of the workpiece without interrupting the chips. You can move along the workbench.
If the tap hole is clogged, it is cleaned by pulling the chips upward or pushing it with a thin chip from the side of the wedge.
Check the straightness and flatness of the planed block by eye or with paired rulers. The quality of planing is checked against light by moving a ruler or square along the treated surface. Control the flatness of the planed board and the linear dimensions of the planed part with a ruler. Check the planing perpendicularity with a square, and the correctness of the chamfer planing with a small tool adjusted using a protractor.
II .Safety precautions when planing wood:
a) Securely secure the workpiece to the workbench.
b) Use a plane with a sharp knife. The sharpness of the blade cannot be checked by running your finger along its edge.
c) Hold the plane firmly when planing.
d) When moving the plane, do not touch the workpiece with the fingers of your right hand, do not hold them close to the sole of the tool.
f) Do not check the quality of the planed surface with your hands.
g) If the taphole becomes clogged with shavings, clear it with a small wedge of hardwood.
h) During breaks, place the planes in the tray with the knife blade facing away from you, making sure that the tools do not protrude beyond the edge of the workbench.
i) Do not blow away the chips or sweep them away with your hand, use a sweeping brush.
j) If you are injured, contact your teacher immediately.
III .A story about the professions of a joiner, a carpenter, and a planing machine operator.
At woodworking enterprises and in construction organizations Planing with hand and electrified tools when fitting parts is performed by joiners and carpenters, and on machines - by planing machine operators.
Guys, now I want to tell you about professions related to woodworking. The professions of carpenter, joiner, and planing machine operator are related to wood. These are one of the most ancient professions - after all, humanity first mastered wood processing. Tree... This is a person’s home, and fuel, and food, and vehicle, and clothes, and shoes, and medicine, and the first writing material - birch bark. The tree finally produces the oxygen we breathe. Glory to the tree! And that means glory to those who work with it, who, having learned its secrets, know how to make from it countless necessary and beautiful things. The carpenter usually does big job: erects a house, builds boats and bridges. A carpenter makes finer things, makes beautiful furniture. But it is impossible to completely separate the woodworkers. Joiners and carpenters are brothers both in material and in their skills. They can always replace each other.
But still, a carpenter first, a joiner later. Carpenters are called "cleaners." Top class carpenters are called cabinetmakers (fine, beautiful). You can become a good warrior only by thoroughly mastering a weapon, and for a master, the main weapon is a tool. There is a lot of beauty hidden in every instrument, a lot of need. Not only is it comprehensively meaningful, but it has also been tested in action. And in work, you understand, any hidden flaw will immediately appear, the smallest imperfection will come out. That's why you guys need to keep your tool in order. Treat it and the materials with care. Work skills, mental flexibility and aesthetic taste are important qualities of every person. They develop only in practical activities. In order to master the techniques, methods and skills of wood processing, you must try when performing each carpentry operation. Guys, if you choose another profession not related to woodworking or metalworking, the skills and abilities acquired in school workshops will always be useful to you in life. For first you must become real men who know how not only to think, but also to plan, and hold a hammer, and do any manly housework, and then become doctors, lawyers, artists, etc. A man is known through work.
IV . Practical work.
Planing blanks for making decorative boards.
A) Familiarize yourself with planes, study the rules of planing.
C) Select the base side of the workpiece, determine the best and worst faces.
C) Plan the faces and edges, check the quality of planing. Show it to the teacher.
V . Execution Analysis practical work.
VI . Delivery of tools and workpieces.
VII . Cleaning workplaces (Clean yourself up, wash your hands).
VIII . Summing up the lesson.
January 22, 2018
Topic 2122:
Planing of blanks from
wood
Homework: textbook
technology § 9, page 3843
Questions:
1.What is wood sawing? Which
sawing is called transverse, and what
- longitudinal? Why and how
use a miter box?
2. What safety measures should you take?
observe when sawing hand saw?
What is grinding used for?
block?
Planing of wood processing of the workpiece to
the right size and creating on it even and
smooth surfaces.
Planing is carried out using various
plows (planing tools).
Among the plows the most common
sherhebels, planes and jointers
"Scherhebel" is a German word
origin, which means
"coarse cutting plow."
The cutting edge of a Scherhebel knife is arched,
and for a planer and jointer it is straight.
convex,
Sherhebel is used to perform the primary, rougher
planing of surfaces, and with a plane - final,
finishing
The plane knife (like the cutting part of all carpentry tools) in
its cutting part is sharpened in the form of a sharp wedge. Two
the surfaces of the wedge at their intersection form a sharp cutting
edge. This cutting edge cuts wood fibers, and the front
the surface of the knife bends the cut layer in the form of chips.
The chipbreaker (Fig.b) prevents
too deep entry
knife into wood and education
too long chips.
Joiners and planes come with a chip breaker (chip breaker).
The chipbreaker (Fig.b) prevents the knife from going too deep
into the wood and the formation of too long chips.
These tools are used to remove chips from wooden blanks.
Planers are much longer than planers.
They are convenient to obtain even, flat surfaces.
The cutting part of all carpentry tools has the shape
sharpened in the form of a sharp wedge.
wedge For example, a plane knife in its cutting part
The two surfaces of the wedge at their intersection form
sharp cutting edge. This cutting edge cuts
wood fibers, and the front surface of the knife bends
cut layer in the form of shavings.
Before planing, you should check
whether the tool is adjusted correctly. U
Right installed knife blade
located above the sole of the last
without distortions and protrudes by 1...3 mm
Scherhebel or 0.1 ... 0.3 mm at the plane.
The workpiece is mounted on a workbench,
clamping or wedging between the stop and the wedge so that
so that the cut side is directed upward.
With your right hand, take the plane by the handle from the back
side of the block, and the left - by the block or handle with
front side.
The plane is placed on the workpiece
part with the blade down and pushed forward. At the beginning
planers apply pressure to the front part
planer, and at the end - on the back, so that
the treated surface was flat.
During the return movement of the plane it
raised above the surface. So, making a move
back and forth, gradually moving apart
the surface to be treated until it
There are less common types of planes and their
purpose, let's look at some of them:
Sander flat planing.
For final cleaning of ends, wood with
curliness and bullying.
Gobrach planing of curved surfaces.
For manual planing of convex and concave
details. The convex surface is planed with a humpback
concave sole, and the concave surface -
humpback with a convex sole.
Cycle flat planing. For finishing large
planes, leveling and smoothing small
irregularities and burrs. Cycles with handle wide
used for scraping parquet. Cycles with housing
More often used for stripping veneer.
Primer profile planing. For sampling
trapezoidal groove (“dovetail”) or
stripping across the grain of such grooves selected with
using a hacksaw or chisel.
Tsinubel flat planing. For corrugation
surfaces required for veneering and
gluing very hard woods.
Used when planing curved surfaces
hardwoods (mahogany and especially ebony).
Selector profile planing. For rectangular
edge processing, assembly and development of quarters.
Kalevka decorative planing. For
profiling of various slats, flat edges
parts, figurine surfaces of panels, etc.
When using materials from this site - and placing a banner is MANDATORY!!!
Materials were sent by Glebov A.A. teacher of technology and labor training, MOU "Veselolopanskaya secondary school"
Target: study planing tools with students; teach planing techniques.
Equipment: sherhebel, plane, jointer, wood preparation.
Lesson progress
I. Repetition of the material covered.
1. Conversation on the following issues:
“Which sawing is called transverse and which is longitudinal?
“What safety precautions must be observed when sawing?
"List the rules for caring for your workbench.
2.Completing practical tasks.
Sawing the workpiece in a miter box.
Clean the workbench.
3. Vocabulary dictation.
Define the concepts:
"mixed sawing,
"Miter box,
"base edge,
"cutting edge,
"sample.
4. Determine and write down the names of the types of saws in the sequence in which the teacher will show the saws:
"teeth for longitudinal sawing;
"hacksaw;
"teeth for cross cutting;
"bow saw.
5.Communicate the topic and purpose of the lesson.
P. Presentation of program material.
1.Introductory conversation.
How many of you have ever planed wood?
Why is planing done?
What safety precautions must be observed when planing?
2. Processing the workpiece to the required size.
Teacher. In order to process the workpiece to the desired size, you need to perform the following operations:
"creating a flat, smooth surface;
"carrying out planing using plows;
"Sherhebels carry out primary rough planing;
“the plane carries out the final clean planing;
"The jointer is much longer than the planer, so it can be used to obtain smooth, flat surfaces. (See Appendix, Fig. 25.)
3. Explanation of the planer structure.
Teacher. Let's consider the device of a plane. (See Appendices, Fig. 26, 27.)
It consists of:
"pads;
"knife;
"wedge;
"handles.
The teacher demonstrates the structure of the plane in the drawing and on the instrument itself.
4.Completing a practical task.
Students, under the guidance of the teacher and with his help, carry out operations with a plane:
"disassembly;
"assembly;
"adjustment.
Teacher. Plow blocks can be wooden, metal, or combined.
The main cutting part of the plow is a knife, which has the shape of a wedge. Before planing, produce correct installation knife The blade should protrude by 1-3 mm on a scherhebel, and by a mm on a plane.
The teacher demonstrates how to adjust the knife.
Students, under the guidance of the teacher and with his help, carry out operations to adjust the knife.
Before starting work, the workpiece is securely mounted on the workbench using stops and wedges. The plane is taken with both hands. Install with the blade down and push forward, pressing on the front part. Moving forward and backward, the surface being treated is gradually scraped off. You must hold the plane firmly so that your hands do not slip.
Instructions on safety rules when working with plows.
Teacher. When working with plows, the following safety rules must be observed:
“securely secure the workpiece;
"work with a well-sharpened knife;
“Do not check the sharpening of the knife with your hand;
“clean the tool only with a wooden wedge;
"Place the tool sideways on the workbench.
III. Practical work.
Completing tasks:
Fasten the workpiece securely.
Plan the edges and layers of the workpiece.
Check the quality of planing ( self-check and mutual verification).
IV. Lesson summary.
Evaluation of students' practical work. The teacher notes the mistakes made.
Lesson No. 20. Planing wood
Did you like it? Please thank us! It's free for you, and it's a big help to us! Add our website to your social network:After sawing is completed, the board or block must be sharpened until smooth, and roughness removed from the sawn surface. This operation is called jointing and is performed on a jointer or an electric planer, and manually by one of the members of the planer family. The simplest plane has a wooden body with a handle, a knife and a wooden wedge for fixing the knife.
A modern metal plane has devices that make it possible to easily adjust the release of the knife blade, on which the thickness of the removed chips depends, and the angle of the knife to the planing plane, and the width of the slot for the chips, and the parallelism of the knife blade to the plane of the board.
Planing begins with a sherhebel, which allows you to remove a thick layer of wood, and can plan along and across thanks to the oval shape of the blade.
Planer with single blade leveling uneven surface after sawing or sherhebel, and with a double plane (double planer) it is good for fine planing, planing of ends, rough and twisted areas. In such a plane, the second knife, the chipbreaker, prevents scuffing, flakes and spalling.
To remove burrs, a grinder is used; it has a short body and an increased cutting angle, which ensures thin chips.
The tsinubel is designed to form grooves and a fleecy surface of wood (for gluing), so its cutting angle is very large (80°), and the blade is comb-shaped.
If you insert a regular knife into the body of the zinubel, it can be used as a grinder.
To plan the ends, an end plane is used, in which the knife blade is turned at an angle to the direction of planing.
Zenzubel is designed for picking quarters. The knife of this plane has two cutting edges - bottom and side - and a side hole for releasing chips. Like an end plane, the lower blade of the knife is turned to the cutting plane at an angle, which improves the quality of cutting.
Mechanical planing of wood is carried out using manual electric planers and special machines. Manual electric planers are used for planing logs, beams, boards, floors and various carpentry blanks, as well as in cases where the object being processed is not possible to bring to a stationary planing tool.
During any planing, especially during rough planing, when a thick layer of wood is removed, it is necessary to determine the direction of the fibers so as not to plan haphazardly. This is determined by inspection (the fibers should come to the surface in the direction of movement of the tool, i.e., away from the carpenter) or by test planing if the fibers are invisible.
When planing at will with a sherhebel, flakes may be so deep that the workpiece will be damaged. Rough planing is performed with large allowances (up to 5 mm) with a sherhebel, with small allowances (1 - 2 mm) with a plane with one knife. Sherhebel is used to plan obliquely to the longitudinal axis of the board or timber. Knife release 2-2.5 mm. In wide boards, when going beyond the core line, as well as in cross-ply ones, half of the board may end up with a different fiber output, so you should either turn the board over or plan it towards you. In the presence of knots, around which the fibers always form a curl, the release of the knife should be minimal, and the knife itself should be very sharp, otherwise deep gouges and flakes may appear, due to which you will have to again remove a thick layer of wood over the entire surface. It is not recommended to plan narrow bars and edges with Sherhebel, since it is difficult to notice the boundaries here, and the bar will be re-planed.
Drying wood
Wood intended for work must be dried to 10 - 16% humidity. Dry wood is better processed.
Wood drying is a very important technological part of the entire processing and manufacturing process. various products made of wood, because it depends on drying what kind of wood it will be, how it will look and how it will be processed.
The more properly the wood is dried, the fewer cracks there should be. The wood must be dried very well, which may take quite a lot of time, but the finished product will be less susceptible to cracking and drying out.
Drying can be done in several ways. Atmospheric drying or drying in free air is simple and accessible, but a tree located under a canopy that protects it from rain and direct sun rays, dries very slowly - from several months to several years. Wood dries better in summer than in spring, autumn and winter. But if the summer is rainy, it not only dries poorly, but can become moldy and even rot. If the weather is favorable, the wood can be dried to an airy state of 12 - 18% humidity.
Soft tree trunks hardwood they are debarked, that is, the bark is removed from them, and placed on racks. Sometimes strips of bark are left at the ends. The same rings are left at equal intervals in the middle. The bark is not completely removed from the trunks of hardwood trees, such as apple trees and maples. To prevent the wood from cracking due to uneven drying, the ends of the trunks are painted over or whitened. Putties that close the pores of wood are made from a mixture of drying oil and fluff lime or tree resin and chalk. When drying small trunks, the ends are covered with a thick layer of thick oil paint.
Boiling small pieces of hardwood in oil and drying oil not only prevents the appearance of cracks, but also enhances the decorative expressiveness of the material. Blanks for small carved items from apple, boxwood, pear, and oak are boiled in natural drying oil, linseed cotton, and wood (oil) oil. During cooking, oil displaces moisture from the wood into the air, filling the intercellular spaces. Wood boiled in oil or drying oil is then dried at room temperature. Well-dried wood acquires additional strength and moisture resistance, and is perfectly sanded and polished.
Boiling wood in salt water also prevents it from cracking. In addition, salt reliably protects wood from the penetration of putrefactive microbes into it. In the woodworking workshops of timber industry enterprises that produce troughs and other dugout utensils, finished goods from linden, aspen and willow are boiled in a 25% solution table salt.
Small pieces of hard and soft wood can also be processed at home. Raw wood is placed in a deep pan and filled to the top with salted water at the rate of 4 - 5 tablespoons of table salt per liter of water. The wood is simmered over low heat for two to three hours, then removed from the salt water and dried at room temperature.
Burying wood in shavings is a widely known and reliable way drying of wood, used by turners and woodcarvers. The turner immediately buries the raw turned parts in the shavings obtained during turning them or prepared in advance. A woodcarver buries an unfinished carved board or sculpture in the shavings. They dry evenly along with the shavings. This measure prevents the product from warping and cracking, especially during a long break in work.
Master woodworkers have always been inexhaustible in their invention, especially when it was necessary to obtain high-quality material. Noticing that even in severe frosts inside the dung heap, quite a lot of high temperature, they began to bury oak ridges in it. In the spring, the ridges were washed and running water and dried under a canopy outdoors.
Chamber drying is widely used in woodworking enterprises. In special drying chambers, wood is treated with superheated steam and flue gas. Wood dried in chambers has a room-dry humidity of 8-12% and is used for carpentry, turning and carving. It takes from three days to a week to dry soft wood, such as pine, linden or spruce. Hard wood of oak, beech or elm should dry in the chamber from two weeks to a month. But during chamber drying, the appearance of cracks is not excluded. Therefore, scientists are constantly looking for more advanced and quick ways drying wood.
IN recent years drying chambers operating on high frequency currents were created. In such chambers, wood is placed between two brass electrode grids. Current is supplied to the electrodes from a high-frequency generator. IN electric field wood dries almost 20 times faster than in a steam chamber. Valuable hardwood is dried in this way.
One more thing should be said the original way drying wood - drying on cement floor, based on the ability of concrete to intensively absorb moisture. Wet wood is laid on a dry concrete floor. During the day, each workpiece is turned over so that alternately one or the other side is adjacent to the cement floor.
Successful drying of wood largely depended on the size and shape of the workpiece, the presence or absence of sapwood. A master who knows the structure well, physical and mechanical properties wood, with the help of an ax, saw, drill and chisels, he could, at his discretion, direct the drying process in the right direction.
It is well known that it is especially difficult to dry logs, logs and lumber that have a core inside. As a rule, when dried, they crack almost to the very core. The logs of many log buildings are usually riddled with numerous cracks. However, you can still find log buildings that do not have any noticeable cracks.
How did the carpenters manage to dry the logs so well? It turns out that there are still cracks in the logs, only they are hidden from our eyes. There is one large crack for each log, but they are skillfully disguised inside log house. Before drying, the carpenter made a notch along each log with an ax. The depth of the notch was approximately one third of the distance from the surface of the log to the core. After the wood dried, one deep crack formed at the notch site, and the remaining areas of the log remained smooth. One big crack seemed to absorb dozens of smaller ones, concentrating the shrinkage in the notch zone. When laying logs in a log house, carpenters placed them with the cracks facing down. Using the same principle, Indian treemakers dry boxwood, which is known to be very hard and prone to severe cracking. The boxwood log is sawed down to the core, due to which shrinkage during drying is always concentrated in the cut area.
It is known that split wood dries quickly and without cracks. If you split a log or ridge in half, you get a plate (half). The half-length ridge dries out much faster than the ridge, not only because its mass becomes half as much, but also mainly because air access opens to the cut annual layers. If the half is dried unevenly, then a deep crack may develop from the core. By splitting a half-and-half in half, you get a quarter (in the old-fashioned way, “quarter”). Unlike a plate, a quarter very rarely develops cracks when it dries out.
The properties of split wood were well known and skillfully used by master carvers from Trinity-Sergius Posad, Moscow province. They split the linden ridge, depending on its thickness, into four or eight parts through the core. Perhaps this technical technique, which arose when it was necessary to avoid cracking of wood, to some extent suggested the plastic solution for many carved toys.
It is quite difficult to dry hardwood that has a core. When it dries, it cracks a lot. Deep cracks reach almost to the core. For example, the wood of a freshly cut apple tree is susceptible to severe cracking. But even the trunk of a dried apple tree - dead wood - after sawing into short ridges and debarking, becomes covered with numerous cracks. The apple tree has light sapwood and a dark core. Masters especially value the core. The core wood is harder and drier, and its pores are filled with a special preservative. Sapwood, on the contrary, is loose and highly saturated with moisture. When the ridge dries out, it cracks first, followed by the core. To preserve the valuable core wood, the sapwood is cut off with an ax and the ends are greased with paste. After removing the sapwood, the heartwood dries quite well, with almost no cracks.
Raw wood causes a lot of trouble for sculptors, who most often have to deal with ridges of quite impressive size. In order not to depend on the capricious instability of wood in ridges, some sculptors glue together blocks of the required size and configuration from pre-dried bars. Glulam blocks are resistant to warping and cracking, but disruption of the natural direction of the wood layers that form the texture pattern is often detrimental to the artistic merit of the sculpture. In a sculpture made from a whole ridge, and not from a glued block, the texture, on the contrary, emphasizes the form and makes it more expressive.
The craftsmen noticed that if the core of the ridge is removed, the appearance of cracks can be avoided almost completely. A hole with a diameter of about 5 centimeters is drilled in the workpiece along the core. When drying, moisture is simultaneously and evenly removed not only from the upper, but also from their internal layers of the ridge. Having completed work on the sculpture. the holes are clogged with wooden plugs.
Drying of wood in the forest directly on the root was carried out in spring and summer. A wide ring of bark was removed from around the tree trunk intended for felling. Moisture from the soil stopped flowing into the crown. The leaves and needles absorbed the moisture remaining in the trunk, which evaporated simultaneously with drying. A tree with a dried trunk was felled, the branches were cut off, and then bucked, that is, sawed into logs. Nowadays, harvesters use this method to dry pine before rafting down the river. Drying standing trees increases the buoyancy of the rafted wood, and therefore reduces its losses along the way.
In the spring, when the young foliage on the trees was in full force, Bogorodsk craftsmen went to the forest to harvest linden wood for carved toys. The branches of the fallen linden tree were cut off and the bark was removed from the trunk along approximately two-thirds of the length of the entire tree. Upper part the tree with branches, branches and leaves (crown) was left untouched. The considerations were very simple. The foliage of a cut tree does not wither immediately, but continues to for a long time fight for life, as if using powerful pumps to draw in the life-giving moisture located in the tree trunk. In two weeks, this natural pump pumped out so much moisture from the trunk that it would have taken several months to remove it during normal drying in the open air. After two weeks, the linden trunk was sawed into ridges up to one and a half meters long. Barked and dried linden ridges, the so-called lutoshki, were brought home and dried in the yard under a canopy, laying them on a flooring raised above the ground. By autumn, linden wood was already quite suitable for all kinds of carving work. Some of the wood was put into use, and the rest continued to be dried in free air.
Drying wood by steaming has been used by folk craftsmen in the distant past, ever since the Russian stove was invented, which became the prototype of the modern drying chamber.
If for some reason it was not possible to prepare wood in the spring, it was quickly dried in Russian ovens. The wood was steamed in large cast irons. Raw wood was placed in cast iron, and a little water was poured into the bottom. Then the cast iron was covered with a lid and placed in a heated oven. To prevent the heat from leaving the oven, it was closed with a damper. In the morning, the wood was removed from the cast iron and dried at room temperature.
Another, simpler method of drying wood was also used. After the next firebox, the ash was raked out from the Russian stove and the floor was cleanly swept, on which wooden blanks were placed on the butt. With the damper tightly closed, the wood was kept in the oven until the morning. By morning the wood had dried well and at the same time acquired beautiful coloring. White linden in its raw form, after steaming, was painted in golden color, and alder wood - light chocolate.
Drying logs in a vertical position on dry ground is known in the southern regions of our country. For example, Uzbek carvers dried wood under a canopy in the open air. Logs intended for drying were placed vertically so that the lower end rested on dry soil. The moisture in the logs gradually descended along the fibers through capillaries and the dry earth greedily absorbed it.
Drying wood in the ground and river sand. First, a rough blank is hewn out from the trunk of a freshly cut tree. Then it is buried in the ground somewhere under a canopy so that rain cannot moisten the soil. The tree is kept in the ground for several years, but more often just one year is enough. After a certain period of time, the workpiece is pulled out of the ground and dried indoors. The drying period is determined by the condition of the wood. The color of the wood, the nature of the sound made by the workpiece when lightly tapping it with a knuckle, provide an experienced craftsman with accurate information about the readiness of the wood for further processing.
Small pieces of hardwood can be dried quite quickly artificially in river sand. At the same time, they acquire a golden brown color.
Interesting decorative effect can be achieved by drying ready-made carved products. A layer of clean material is poured into the cast iron. river sand. Blanks are placed on top, which, in turn, are covered with a new layer of dry sand. Thus, cast iron is filled to the top, making sure that the workpieces do not touch its walls. The loaded cast iron without a lid is placed on the stove. The closer it is to the burning wood, the faster the drying will go. But this creates a danger that the wood will begin to smolder after some time. At the same time, if cast iron is placed too far from the fire, the wood will dry slowly. Optimal distance from fire to cast iron is determined empirically. As the wood dries, a golden tan gradually appears in areas facing the fire. It smoothly transitions into the natural color of wood with opposite side. Often this is the effect that is achieved by decorating ready-made carvings. But if you need to get a uniform color, cast iron is turned around its axis from time to time, exposing first one side or the other to the fire. If they want to get clean, dried wood (without tan), cast iron with sand and blanks is placed in the oven after heating overnight. You can also dry wood in sand on a stove or fire, using cans, old pots, and buckets instead of cast iron.
It is known from written sources that ancient Greek sculptors dried wood valuable species burying it in dry rye. Drying wood in grain was well known in Rus'. Wooden blank buried in grain closer to spring. Over the course of several weeks, the grain absorbed all the “forest moisture” from the wood. The wood prepared in this way was kept at room temperature, and then safely put into use, without fear of cracks. It was believed that drying raw wood in grain several weeks before sowing had a beneficial effect on the quality seed material. The grain, filled with life-giving moisture, seemed to awaken from winter hibernation and germinate faster once in the ground.
Since wood is one of the oldest building materials, which has been used for a very long time, there are many methods suitable for processing this material. One of these methods was planing wood. The operation is quite old, but it is with its help that it is possible to give the desired shape and size to the workpiece.
Modern wood processing
Today there are two ways to carry out this operation. It can be done manually, or it can be done mechanically. If we talk about the mechanical style of processing, the most widespread operation is carried out on a jointing machine.
Since today technologies have been developed quite strongly, machines began to be equipped with program control, robotic systems, automatic lines. All these improvements have led to the fact that the processing on machines has become of higher quality, and it has also been possible to significantly increase accuracy.
Planing technology. General description
Wood planing technology or general process- this is the part of the process during which the shape, size or properties of the processed material change. In addition, since wood is a rather demanding material for processing, the whole process is divided into several stages. The first stage is drying, since if the workpiece is not dried, it will certainly warp in the future. This is followed by the stage of cutting the material into pieces of the required size. The next stage is precisely the planing of wood or any mechanical processing of wood, the purpose of which is to give the desired shape and fit it to the required dimensions.
It is also worth noting that the sequence of technological operations may change. It depends on the type of raw materials, the finishing method, the organization of production, etc.
The essence of planing wood is that all roughness, warping and other defects are removed from the surface of the workpiece. It is worth noting here that most often these defects occur after the wood blank passes the sawing stage. Sawing is a process of cutting wood in which the direction of the straight line coincides with the direction of the working movement. That is, sawing and planing wood are two main processing methods, the technology of which is quite simple, but it is with its help that all wood raw materials acquire their shape.
Manual planing. Tools for work
As the main tool for working with manual processing is a plane. With its help, all planes are processed. You can also use jointers or sherhebels. The body of almost all plows consists of such parts as a block, horns, a stop, a knife, and a wedge. The wedge is necessary in order to be able to secure the knife in the block. For manual planing of wood, a knife is used here, which is a steel plate. The thickness of the element is 3 mm and is made of carbon tool steel grades U8 or U9. The lower part must be hardened.
The block is presented in the form of a rectangular block of wood. The front part of this part of a sherhebel or plane is equipped with a horn mounted on top. Planers have a handle behind the knife. In addition, the last has a sole. It is this part that wears out most quickly in the area that is located in front of the span. For this reason, in some cases, a pentagonal insert made of the most durable wood is glued into a regular sole. When planing wood with a plane, it is necessary that the knife rests evenly on the back side of the notch. To do this, it must be made perfectly flat. There is also a stop behind the end of the knife, which is necessary to ensure that the handle does not rub your hand during operation.
Sherhebel is a tool that is used only for primary processing. In other words, rough processing of wood is carried out by planing. Knife of this instrument presented in the form of an oval cutter. With its help it is removed surface layer, however, after his work, quite deep hollows remain.
The next tool is a plane. Planing wood with this tool is also primary, and it consists of approximately the same elements as the sherhebel. The significant difference is that the knife here is made in the form of a rectangle, and its edges are slightly ground off so as not to tear up the wood during processing. It is used to level surfaces previously treated with Sherhebel.
Methods of performing the operation
Types of wood planing are divided into manual and mechanical, but they, in turn, can also be carried out in different ways. Before proceeding with the procedure itself, it is necessary to carefully inspect the workpiece and determine in which direction the fibers go. It is also important to understand the degree of roughness of the wood. Eat important rule. Planing of wood is always carried out layer by layer. In other words, you need to guide the tool towards the exit of the cut annual and cross-layer fibers. This is important because right choice directions will help make the whole process easier. In addition, there will be less roughness left. When working with tools such as a sherhebel or a plane, they must be held as follows: the horn is held with the left hand, and the right hand supports the tool stop. If a jointer or semi-jointer is used for work, then right hand take the handle and place your left palm on the block.
Naturally, this operation must be performed in accordance with strict rules security. Sawing and planing of wood can only be done with tools that are sharp and properly sharpened, and that are properly fitted with wedges. The sole of the tool must be perfectly flat. In addition, you can only fasten a workpiece whose ends are parallel and perpendicular to the edges. The material that is clamped on the workbench should fit tightly to it so that there are no bends.
After planing the wood hand tools was finished, you cannot put it on the sole, put it on its side, with the sole facing away from you.
Mechanical processing. Tools for work
To cut wood using this method, an electric plane is used. Models for operation IE-5707A-1 and IE-5701A.
Regarding the first manual electrical apparatus, then it is most often used in carpentry workshops, if the place of work is equipped with a workbench. To plan wood with a plane of this type, it must consist of an electric motor, a V-belt drive, a cutter with replaceable knives, movable and stationary skis, a head, and a handle. The essence of the processing technology is as follows. The rotor of the electric motor rotates in two ball bearings. A fan is installed on the shaft. In addition, a drive pulley is also attached to the end of the shaft. The torque created by the rotor is transmitted to the cutter using a V-belt drive. This unit has the ability to adjust the planing depth. To do this, the front ski can be lowered or raised. The equipment can also carry out roughing and final processing. The difference is that a grooved cutter is used for roughing, and a flat cutter is used for finishing.
The second type of electric planer consists of approximately the same parts. The difference is that it is the knife shaft that is driven, not the cutter. The knife shaft itself consists of two knives.
Sawing and planing of wood OKVED 2: code 16.10
OKVED is an all-Russian classifier of species economic activity. IN this document The following stages of wood processing include:
- Felling cleaning or splitting lumber.
- Making wooden railway sleepers.
- Sawing and planing of wood, impregnation of wood with various chemicals, to protect against influence environment.
- Mandatory drying of lumber.
- Production flooring unassembled type.
The All-Russian Classifier of Types of Economic Activities - OKVED for sawing and planing wood - is a document that also has several clarifying child codes. The main entry is located under code 16.10.
Tool setting and operating methods
Before starting work, you need to check the equipment. It is important that the knives on electric planes are installed correctly, sharp enough and properly sharpened. It is very important that the blades extend to the same length and are flush with the back panel. Another important rule is that the mass of the working knives should be the same. The electric planer itself must be grounded, and any adjustment, adjustment or repair can only be carried out if it is disconnected from the electrical network.
The process of operating an electrical apparatus is carried out as follows. is connected to the network, after which, by pressing the power button, the electric motor will start. After the electric planer reaches the required rotation speed, it can be lowered onto the wood workpiece. It is important that the workpiece is completely cleared of any debris, dust, dirt or ice if work is carried out in winter time. It is very important that the plane descends slowly enough, otherwise there will be a shock when the workpiece and the knife come into contact, which will most likely destroy the lumber. The unit must move along the material strictly in a straight line. It is also worth saying that after processing is completed for the first time, the machine is turned off, the wood is returned to its original position and the operation is repeated.
It is also very important to follow safety precautions here.
It is important to ensure that all live parts of electrical equipment are properly protected. In addition, only an employee who has undergone special training is allowed to work with an electrical unit. It is also important to ensure that the knives do not touch metal parts during operation.
Jointer
It’s worth considering the design of this machine from the fact that it can be single-sided or double-sided. If a double-sided machine is used, then two adjacent surfaces of one workpiece can be processed at once. There are also machines with manual feed or with mechanized feed. If with manual feeding everything is simple and clear, then for mechanical feeding it is necessary that an automatic feeder be installed nearby. In some cases, an integrated conveyor feed mechanism may be used instead. Also, these machines are equipped with devices such as chip collectors, which are used for chips and dust. It is connected to the factory exhaust network.
Preparation for use
Preparation for work includes the stage technical adjustment unit, as well as checking its performance. As for the technical setup, it is as follows. Knives that are installed on jointing machines must have a straight shape. Using a ruler and a feeler gauge, deviations from straightness are monitored. The gap allowed between the ruler and the blade is only 0.1 mm if the blade length is up to 400 mm. If the blade is up to 800 mm long, then the gap can be 0.2 mm. As with an electric planer, the knives must be balanced in weight. Installation of knives is carried out sequentially. The device has a chip breaker. Knife blades should protrude above this element by no more than 1-2 mm. To check the machine, it is necessary to have a test block, which is usually made of hard, dry, seasoned wood. It also has precision machined edges. The cross-section of the edges can be 20-30 x 50-70 mm and a length from 400 to 500 mm.
Machine processing technology
When operating a jointer that has a manual feed, one worker is required. The worker takes the workpiece from the stack and assesses its condition. Lumber that is too warped should be discarded. If it is not very concave or warped, then it can be used; the product is placed on the table with the concave side. Next, the workpiece is pressed against the ruler with the left hand, and fed to the machine with the right hand. In this case, the end of the wood will push back the fan fence. This will open access to the shaft with rotating knives. When the front part is processed, it is necessary, still holding the workpiece with your left hand, to gradually push it forward with your right, at a uniform speed. In this case, of course, you need to keep your hands at a safe distance from the knives.
If a jointer with a mechanical feed is used, the feed speed of lumber is calculated based on the maximum power of the electric motor. After processing, the product must be checked. Deviation from the plane is allowed no more than 0.15 mm for every 1000 mm. Deviation of adjacent surfaces is allowed no more than 0.1 mm at a height of 100 mm.
When using this tool for planing wood, it is very important to ensure that there are no defects or irregularities on the surface. If during operation the knife encounters such a defect, the workpiece may twitch, and the worker’s hand lying on the product may fall into the knife gap.
The most dangerous is planing wood that is quite thin, narrow or short. For this reason, if the machine manual feed, that is, restrictions on the dimensions of the workpieces. Length up to 400 mm, width up to 50 mm, thickness up to 30 mm.
