How to attach fronts to drawers: an original solution. Hinges for kitchen furniture: marking and installation with your own hands How facades are attached to drawers
Before installing the facades, the entire structure must be assembled and the drawers inserted into the chest of drawers. It is important that the product stands on a flat surface to avoid errors during installation.
Methods for installing facades
Today we will tell you about one very convenient way to install furniture fronts on drawers.
The method is quite simple and popular, and even if this is your first installation, you will still succeed
So, how to quickly, conveniently and without problems install a front on a drawer? For this we need:
screwdriver
screws 4*30
clamps
Double-sided tape
probe for determining the thickness of the gap between the facades
Before installation, the drawers (which are still without fronts) must be located in the furniture product, the product itself must be assembled and leveled (without distortions or tilts).
We take double-sided tape, cut several strips and stick them with one side on the ends of the boxes, as shown in the photo.
After this, having first removed the protective film from the tape, we will need to lean the facade against the box, but before that, even before we “glue” it, we need to align the facade as accurately as possible, both vertically and horizontally.
To ensure a horizontal gap of 3 mm (or whatever you provided when drawing up the detailing) between the facades, you can use a kind of marker - a probe. You can use a ruler of a given thickness, pieces of edge, or find another means at hand.
The hardest thing is to lean the first facade evenly, then everything will go like clockwork. It’s better to start from the bottom drawer, it will be more convenient.
After you glue the facade to the drawer using double-sided tape, so that it does not “move out” when fastened with a screw, the facade with the drawer must be secured with a clamp. After fixing, near the clamping point, screw in the screws from the inside of the box, in increments of 15-20 cm.
That is, to maintain a horizontal gap, we use a feeler gauge, to level the facade on the sides, we use straight arms and an even eye, or you can use a flat board, placing it vertically.
Many may argue that the tape leaves unnecessary gaps, but I have never noticed such gaps in myself, the main thing is to tighten the screws tightly.
In this simple way, you can easily and efficiently attach the fronts to the drawers.
Method 2. Without tape
We remove the clamps and install the box in place, checking the installation of the facade. If you are not entirely satisfied with the gaps, then correct them by applying light blows to the façade with a mallet and moving it in the desired direction. Then secure the facade with additional screws.
After installing the lower facade, we proceed to the next one. Between the facades you need to install a gasket with a thickness equal to the gap size of 3mm. These could be fiberboard scraps. We level the façade and clamp it with clamps.
Method 3.attached to the box using bolts that secure the handles
This method involves attaching the fronts to the drawer using bolts that secure the handles. In this case, longer bolts are used instead of standard ones.
We mark holes on the facade for bolts for handles. We drill holes. Then we apply the façade to the installed box, level it and, through the drilled holes, use an awl to mark the places for drilling on the box. Now we drill holes in the box, they should be slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts, so that if necessary, the facade can be adjusted. We screw the handle and the front to the drawer, at first not tightening the bolts too much. We level the façade and then tighten the bolts. To better fix the facade, you can additionally screw in two self-tapping screws from the inside of the drawer. I personally use this method! We drill through the façade and tighten the screws with handles and without clamps and without a clamp! It all depends on how you get used to it!
Method 4: number of holes for self-tapping screws.
To install facades using this method, you need to ensure that certain conditions are met.
After assembling the box, you need to check its diagonals, they must be equal. You also need to check the installation of the box in the box: its front false panel should be aligned relative to the front end of the box, the box should not swing.
Let's say we start the installation from the top drawer. In the front false panel of the drawer we drill the required number of holes for self-tapping screws. We put the box in place. We measure the distances to one of the holes from the top edge of the box and from the side post.
From the results obtained we subtract the size of the required gaps.
Now we transfer these dimensions to the side of the facade with which it will be pressed against the drawer, and use an awl to mark the future hole. Drill a shallow hole for the self-tapping screw. Now we screw the front to the box with a self-tapping screw. The point of this installation is to correctly secure the front to the box using one hole. And even if it breaks a little during adjustment, the remaining screws, screwed in from scratch, will provide the necessary fixation of the facade. In this case, it is important to accurately mark the hole for the self-tapping screw on the facade.
| Created 27 Oct 2014 | |||||||||
Home craftsmen often have to assemble furniture with their own hands. This happens both when purchasing ready-made interior items and when making cabinets, cabinets, tables, and the like on your own. At the same time, correct fastening of the guides on a wide variety of drawers becomes a real stumbling block. Despite the apparent simplicity of this work, installation errors can lead to dire consequences. In the process of further use of the furniture, serious difficulties may arise. Therefore, it is important to immediately determine the type of guides themselves and the method of their installation.
Types of guides
At the moment, there are 2 main types of guides that are installed on a drawer. These are roller and ball systems. There are also other designs: hidden, with closers, telescopic, and so on. But they don’t install them with their own hands. This installation is carried out in a factory setting.
Roller guides usually consist of 2 strips with perforations for fasteners. Plastic wheels are attached to the ends of the structures. Thanks to them, the drawers slide out.
Figure 1. Types of guides.
Such systems have a number of significant disadvantages:
- When in use, the drawers make an unpleasant sound.
- The wheels are unreliable and quickly become unusable.
- If there is a strong pull, the box may fall out of its intended slot.
But such guides also have advantages. They are cheap and easy to install.
Ball systems are also called full extension guides. This is a telescopic design that allows you to extend the drawer the entire length of the bar. Inside the system there are metal balls that ensure smooth and almost silent movement.
The main difference between roller and ball systems is that the first one consists of 2 profiles independent from each other, and the second one is one-piece. In the first case, 1 strip is attached directly to the wall of the box, and the 2nd – to the furniture. The rollers are disassembled only during installation. And when assembled they look like a solid structure. It is this feature that ensures the reliability of the fastenings: the storage space does not fall out even with a strong tug. The appearance of different guides is shown in Fig. 1.
At the moment, you can find guides of different sizes in stores. This allows you to select a ready-made design for interior items of any type and depth. As a rule, roller systems are placed on boxes that are not expected to bear heavy loads. They can be found in linen and clothing closets, kitchen modules (for example, for storing cutlery), and hallways. Ball structures are placed on linen drawers of beds and furniture intended for children's rooms.
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Installation of roller elements
Figure 2. Scheme of fastening roller guides.
Whatever type of drawer mounting you choose, you will need the following tools:
- drill with a thin wood drill bit;
- screwdriver with travel limiter;
- a set of screwdrivers with various blades (flat and Phillips).
Also, don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a tape measure or a long ruler and a square.
All necessary marks can be made with a simple pencil or colored chalk. The installation diagram of roller guides is shown in Fig. 2.
The process of installing guide systems on drawers occurs in 3 stages:
- Marking furniture walls and storage areas.
- Installing the bar on the drawer.
- Installing strips on furniture.
Figure 3. Diagram of the ball guides.
If you follow this sequence, you will be able to avoid possible mistakes.
The guide can be installed anywhere. But usually they are mounted strictly in the middle of the wall (this makes it easier to determine the location of the structure on the furniture) or flush with the top or bottom of the box. But roller systems are most often installed on the bottom edge.
It is wiser not only to mark the places for screwing in self-tapping screws, but also to drill them. This will ensure that the screw does not split the wood. You need to determine the location of the fasteners immediately both on the drawer and on the wall of the furniture.
The master should remember that the thickness of this type of guides is 1.25 cm. Accordingly, the width of the drawer should be 2.5 cm narrower than the internal width of the furniture (both sides are taken into account). Otherwise, the retractable structure will not fit into the housing. For freer movement, add 1-2 mm to this gap.
The length of the screws is selected based on the wall thickness.
The head of the fastener must firmly fix the guide, but not rise above the bar. In this case, the sting should not penetrate through the wall. First, the guides are fixed on the drawer, and then on the furniture. After which the storage system is placed in its designated place.
In this article you can familiarize yourself with step-by-step instructions for installing roller furniture guides. You can easily do it yourself from marking to adjustment.
Roller guides make it easy to move the pull-out shelves. Roller guides are a simple and inexpensive mechanism to manufacture, however, the disadvantage of this system is noise and the design for the light weight of the boxes. Otherwise, they begin to creak over time, the rollers break, and the guides bend. An alternative to roller guides are full extension slides.
Full extension slides
Step-by-step installation instructions for roller guides
Begin installing the roller slides by attaching two slides to the bottom of the drawer. In this case, the roller itself should be located not at the facade, but at the back wall of the drawer, the other end of the bar rests against the facade. It is more convenient to attach the strip with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the box rather than to the sides, despite the fact that holes are also provided in the side parts of the guides, since it is along the side that the second roller will move. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude above the surface of the strip, as this will interfere with the movement of the box. The system provides two types of holes: round and oblong. For beginner assemblers, we recommend using oblong holes that allow for slight position adjustment.
Attaching another pair of guides to the body of a cabinet or cabinet can be done in two ways:
1. Take careful measurements, mark the location for drilling holes for self-tapping screws, drill holes, apply a guide and secure it in at least three places.
2. Mark the location of the guide with a pencil, attach it to the mark and immediately secure it with self-tapping screws.
An important point - now the roller should be on the facade side.
1. Screw the guide with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the drawer. Roller on the rear wall. |
|
| 2. The bar is fixed in at least three points. |
| 3. We measure the location of the second pairs of guides. The distance from the edge should be 2 mm. |
| 4. Measure the height of the guide. If you If you plan to fill the box with heavy objects, add to the height position of the guide a few millimeters so that compensate for the slight deflection of the bottom of the box. |
| 5. Secure the guides with self-tapping screws. |
| 6. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at three points. |
| 7. The roller is located on the front side. |
| 8. Insert the box. | |
The facade should not be skewed, it is tightly adjacent to the body of the pencil case. If there is a slight misalignment or slot, you have the opportunity to adjust the drawer using the above oblong holes for self-tapping screws To do this, loosen the screw using a screwdriver. and change the position of the guide slightly. Tighten self-tapping screw and check the drawer front and movement again. |
One drawer requires two pairs of guides. Some guides are attached to the drawer, and others to furniture stands. Consider the option of a cabinet with drawers.
- height of drawer fronts
- size of drawers - width, depth, height
- Dimensions for attaching guides to racks
For example, you need to make a cabinet with three drawers. Cabinet dimensions: width – 420 mm, height without legs – 560 mm, depth – 505 mm.
The dresser lid will hang over the facades, the facades will be overhead. To calculate the drawers, the parameters of the roller guides will be used.
The first thing you need to decide is the height of the facades. Draw a diagram of the cabinet, side view. First, we put in the required gaps: between the lid of the chest of drawers and all other facades - 3 mm, the distance from the bottom of the cabinet - 4 mm.
We calculate the height of the facades:
- Add all the gaps and indents: 3+3+3+4 = 13
- We subtract the resulting amount from the working height of the chest of drawers: 523 -13 = 510
- We divide the result by the number of facades: 510: 3 = 170
The height of one facade is 170 mm. The width of the façade is 6 mm less than the total width of the product: 420 – 6 = 414 mm.
The thickness of one pair of roller guides is 12.5 mm. The total thickness of two pairs of roller guides is 12.5 + 12.5 = 25mm. Let's add another millimeter to prevent the screw heads from touching the guides, the total gap is 26mm.
Now you need to mark the lines for attaching the guides to the chest of drawers. Marking should always start from the top edge of the part. And even if you make a slight mistake, it won’t be noticeable below. For marking, you can use the following rule: the line on which the guide will be screwed should be 35mm above the bottom of the facade.
This cabinet has 3 drawers, there should be 3 lines.
1st line. 3(distance from top) + 170(facade height) – 35 = 138 mm
2nd line. 3 + 170 + 3 (gap between facades) + 170 – 35 = 311 mm
3rd line. 3 + 170 + 3 + 170 + 3 + 170 – 35 = 484 mm
Before starting design, you need to decide on the type of guides that will be used. I'll show you how to design a drawer with roller guides and overlay fronts.
This is what the roller guides look like:
One drawer requires two pairs of guides. Some guides are attached to the drawer, and others to furniture stands.
In order to design and then install boxes, you need to know the following parameters:
– height of drawer fronts;
– size of boxes – width, depth, height;
– dimensions for attaching guides to racks.
For example, you need to make a chest of drawers with four drawers. Chest dimensions: width – 800 mm, height without legs – 800 mm, depth – 440 mm.
The dresser lid will hang over the facades, there will be overhead. To calculate the drawers, the parameters of the roller guides will be used.
The first thing you need to decide is the height of the facades. Draw a diagram of the chest of drawers, side view. First, we put in the required gaps: between the chest of drawers and the top facade - 4 mm; between the facades - 2-3mm, the distance from the bottom of the cabinet is 2mm.
We calculate the height of the facades:
1) add all the gaps and indents: 4+2+2+2+2=12;
2) from the working height of the chest of drawers I subtract the resulting amount: 784 -12 = 772;
3) I divide the result by the number of facades: 772: 4 = 193
The height of one facade is 193 mm. The width of the façade is 4 mm less than the total width of the product: 800 – 4 = 796 mm.
The box consists of two sides, a front and a back wall and a bottom.
The front and back walls are inserted between the sidewalls. For wide drawers, you can add one more detail: a drawer tie bar. This will prevent the bottom of the drawer from sagging. The tie strip is attached between the front and rear walls. A fiberboard bottom is nailed to the bottom. The bottom must be attached to all walls and to the tie strip.
Let's decide on the dimensions of the box parts.
To determine the height of the drawer walls, I use the rule - the height of the drawer is at least 50mm less than the height of the drawer front. In my case, 193 -50 = 143mm. I round up to 140mm.
The length of the side walls is equal to the length of the guides. The depth of the chest of drawers is 440mm, roller guides 400mm long will be used, which means the length of the side walls is 400mm.
First, we determine the width of the chest of drawers - from the total width we subtract the thickness of two 16mm racks: 800 - (16*2) = 768.
Between the side wall of the drawer and the chest of drawers there should be a gap equal to the thickness of the guide
The thickness of one pair of roller guides is 12.5 mm.
The total thickness of two pairs of roller guides is 12.5 + 12.5 = 25mm. Let's add another millimeter to prevent the screw heads from touching the guides, the total gap is 26mm.
In order to find out the width of the front wall of the drawer, you need to subtract the thickness of the guides and the thickness of the side walls of the drawer from the width of the opening. The thickness of the guides is already known - 26mm, and the thickness of the side walls of the box is 16 + 16 = 32mm.
The width of the front (rear) wall is: 768 – (26 + 32) = 710 mm.
The resulting parts have the following dimensions:
side wall 400 x 140 – 2 pcs;
front (back) wall 710 x 140 – 2 pcs;
bottom 737 x 395.
Now you need to mark the lines for attaching the guides to the chest of drawers. Marking should always start from the top edge of the part. And even if you make a slight mistake, it won’t be noticeable below. For marking, I use the following rule: the line on which the guide will be screwed should be 35mm above the bottom of the facade.
I have four drawers, there should be four lines. I think:
1st line. 4(distance from top) + 193(facade height) – 35 = 162mm
2nd line. 4 + 193 + 2 (gap between facades) + 193 – 35 = 357mm
3rd line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 552mm
4th line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 747mm
When assembling factory-made furniture, the question of installing guides on drawers does not arise at all. Markings for correct installation are usually made (and very accurately), and installation instructions are included. We take into account that all the fittings are available and you do not have to select any elements for fastening. But when repairing furniture or during its production, you have to independently calculate the position of the guides for retractable furniture elements.
Ball guides
When choosing guides, preference is increasingly given to the ball version. And this is not without reason: ball runners are superior to all other guide designs in many respects. They provide easy drawer extension, are quite easy to attach and adjust, and are able to fix the drawer in its normal position.
Buying them in a retail chain is no longer a problem, so all that remains is to learn how to properly attach them to furniture. To ensure this process you will need:
- guides;
- screws;
- screwdriver;
- ruler;
- pencil;
- awl.
Item quality
When purchasing, pay attention to its length (it must be at least 70% of the length of the drawers) and completeness. It is better to immediately purchase the structure along with screws, so as not to get additional problems later. Check the ease of movement of parts of the structure in the store.
Ball options consist of two parts. To disconnect them (and this is necessary for fastening), press the rubber lock and simply slide out the inner part of the guide. It will be directly attached to the retractable element.
Features of fastening to the box
There are two options for attaching devices to boxes: along the lower edge of the side wall of the box or in their central part. Fastening guides along the central axis of drawers is recommended if the dimensions of the drawers themselves are large enough. In this case, the load on the structures will be less, which will ensure their durability. This makes it easier to mount devices, but more difficult to accurately adjust them. To simplify things, take an additional tool called a level.
Only repeated measurements will help you do everything efficiently. In this case, you also cannot do without a building level. In other cases, ball guides should be attached along the bottom edge. And here, too, there may be several installation options: flush with the front panel of the drawer or with a slight indentation in depth. It is easier to secure the ball structure using the first option. So there will be no need to do additional markings, and there will be no need to carry out calculations. The front panel of the drawer will have to be detached.
Take the guide in your hands and route it to the side panel. Make holes at the fastening points with an awl. This will make it easier for you to drive the screws strictly perpendicular to the panels. The caps will not stick out and interfere with work. The ball structure can be permanently attached directly to the boxes. But it is not recommended to do this on the side panels of the cabinet.
Marking and adjustment
Please note that ball guides have both horizontal and vertical holes. They are designed to adjust the position. Regular round holes are required for final fixation. To attach the structure to the side panel of the cabinet, it is necessary to make careful markings. Step back about 3 mm from the bottom panel of the cabinet and draw a horizontal line at this height with a pencil. Place the guide along this line (the line should be strictly under the guide) and screw (not all the way) the screws into all oblong-shaped holes.
Now you can check their installation using a drawer: we combine the parts of the guide and check the movement. If everything is done correctly, the box should move easily. When the drawer is completely closed, both latches should engage. If all this is missing, then the ball devices need to be adjusted. Loosen the screws slightly and ensure that all imperfections are eliminated. And only after this should all the screws be screwed all the way. At the last stage, fasten the fixing screws. All that remains is to install the panel strip on the drawer and secure it with screws.
At first, the latches will work too hard: it will be possible to open the drawer only with great force.
You shouldn’t be afraid of this: over time, the clamps will be developed, and everything will become much simpler. If this does not suit you, then you can install ball guides without clamps.
Ball structures without clamps are also not difficult to purchase. Well, if you couldn’t find such ones, then the clamps themselves can be easily removed from regular guides.
It is much more difficult to install ball devices on drawers that were previously mounted with rollers. The fact is that roller guides are usually a little wider, so installing other types may seem like an insoluble problem. In reality, everything is not so complicated: it is enough to place a strong tire under the guide on each side to level out the difference in thickness.
If the retractable elements are located on top of each other, then you will not be able to do without calculations. There are even certain calculation formulas that express the relationship between the size of the drawers and the place where the guide needs to be installed. It’s easier to get a technological map, where all the calculations will already be made.
Optimal method
An interesting method of marking, which completely eliminates all installation shortcomings, is recommended by craftsmen. First, they advise screwing the guides to the sliding elements and connecting both parts. The Euroscrews on which the furniture body is mounted must be loosened to allow the side panels to move to the side.
A layer of any coloring substance is applied to the outer part of the guide (the part that should be adjacent to the side panel of the case). The drawer is carefully installed in the required position. It is recommended to place a sheet of cardboard under it to provide the necessary gap between the bottom of the box and the bottom panel of the case. After this, the screws are tightened until they stop. The dye will give an accurate imprint on the surface.
It is at this point that the ball guide should be screwed to the side panels. The method is simple to the point of genius: it will no longer be possible to place a more precise guide. The only drawback is that the furniture body will have to be partially dismantled.
The back panel will definitely have to be separated, as it will prevent the side panels from moving freely. Is it worth doing this to install the guide? The method, although accurate, is not the fastest.
- Types of guides
- Installation of roller elements
- Installation of ball guides
Home craftsmen often have to assemble furniture with their own hands. This happens both when purchasing ready-made interior items and when making cabinets, cabinets, tables, and the like on your own. At the same time, correct fastening of the guides on a wide variety of drawers becomes a real stumbling block. Despite the apparent simplicity of this work, installation errors can lead to dire consequences. In the process of further use of the furniture, serious difficulties may arise. Therefore, it is important to immediately determine the type of guides themselves and the method of their installation.
Types of guides
At the moment, there are 2 main types of guides that are installed on a drawer. These are roller and ball systems. There are also other designs: hidden, with closers, telescopic, and so on. But they don’t install them with their own hands. This installation is carried out in a factory setting.
Roller guides usually consist of 2 strips with perforations for fasteners. Plastic wheels are attached to the ends of the structures. Thanks to them, the drawers slide out.
Figure 1. Types of guides.
Such systems have a number of significant disadvantages:
- When in use, the drawers make an unpleasant sound.
- The wheels are unreliable and quickly become unusable.
- If there is a strong pull, the box may fall out of its intended slot.
But such guides also have advantages. They are cheap and easy to install.
Ball systems are also called full extension guides. This is a telescopic design that allows you to extend the drawer the entire length of the bar. Inside the system there are metal balls that ensure smooth and almost silent movement.
The main difference between roller and ball systems is that the first one consists of 2 profiles independent from each other, and the second one is one-piece. In the first case, 1 strip is attached directly to the wall of the box, and the 2nd – to the furniture. The rollers are disassembled only during installation. And when assembled they look like a solid structure. It is this feature that ensures the reliability of the fastenings: the storage space does not fall out even with a strong tug. The appearance of different guides is shown in Fig. 1.
At the moment, you can find guides of different sizes in stores. This allows you to select a ready-made design for interior items of any type and depth. As a rule, roller systems are placed on boxes that are not expected to bear heavy loads. They can be found in linen and clothing closets, kitchen modules (for example, for storing cutlery), and hallways. Ball structures are placed on linen drawers of beds and furniture intended for children's rooms.
Before starting design, you need to decide on the type of guides that will be used. I'll show you how to design a drawer with roller guides and overlay fronts.
This is what the roller guides look like:
One drawer requires two pairs of guides. Some guides are attached to the drawer, and others to furniture stands.
In order to design and then install boxes, you need to know the following parameters:
– height of drawer fronts;
– size of boxes – width, depth, height;
– dimensions for attaching guides to racks.
For example, you need to make a chest of drawers with four drawers. Chest dimensions: width – 800 mm, height without legs – 800 mm, depth – 440 mm.
The dresser lid will hang over the facades, there will be overhead. To calculate the drawers, the parameters of the roller guides will be used.
The first thing you need to decide is the height of the facades. Draw a diagram of the chest of drawers, side view. First, we put in the required gaps: between the chest of drawers and the top facade - 4 mm; between the facades - 2-3mm, the distance from the bottom of the cabinet is 2mm.
We calculate the height of the facades:
1) add all the gaps and indents: 4+2+2+2+2=12;
2) from the working height of the chest of drawers I subtract the resulting amount: 784 -12 = 772;
3) I divide the result by the number of facades: 772: 4 = 193
The height of one facade is 193 mm. The width of the façade is 4 mm less than the total width of the product: 800 – 4 = 796 mm.
The box consists of two sides, a front and a back wall and a bottom.
The front and back walls are inserted between the sidewalls. For wide drawers, you can add one more detail: a drawer tie bar. This will prevent the bottom of the drawer from sagging. The tie strip is attached between the front and rear walls. A fiberboard bottom is nailed to the bottom. The bottom must be attached to all walls and to the tie strip.
Let's decide on the dimensions of the box parts.
To determine the height of the drawer walls, I use the rule - the height of the drawer is at least 50mm less than the height of the drawer front. In my case, 193 -50 = 143mm. I round up to 140mm.
The length of the side walls is equal to the length of the guides. The depth of the chest of drawers is 440mm, roller guides 400mm long will be used, which means the length of the side walls is 400mm.
First, we determine the width of the chest of drawers - from the total width we subtract the thickness of two 16mm racks: 800 - (16*2) = 768.
Between the side wall of the drawer and the chest of drawers there should be a gap equal to the thickness of the guide
The thickness of one pair of roller guides is 12.5 mm.
The total thickness of two pairs of roller guides is 12.5 + 12.5 = 25mm. Let's add another millimeter to prevent the screw heads from touching the guides, the total gap is 26mm.
In order to find out the width of the front wall of the drawer, you need to subtract the thickness of the guides and the thickness of the side walls of the drawer from the width of the opening. The thickness of the guides is already known - 26mm, and the thickness of the side walls of the box is 16 + 16 = 32mm.
The width of the front (rear) wall is: 768 – (26 + 32) = 710 mm.
The resulting parts have the following dimensions:
side wall 400 x 140 – 2 pcs;
front (back) wall 710 x 140 – 2 pcs;
bottom 737 x 395.
Now you need to mark the lines for attaching the guides to the chest of drawers. Marking should always start from the top edge of the part. And even if you make a slight mistake, it won’t be noticeable below. For marking, I use the following rule: the line on which the guide will be screwed should be 35mm above the bottom of the facade.
I have four drawers, there should be four lines. I think:
1st line. 4(distance from top) + 193(facade height) – 35 = 162mm
2nd line. 4 + 193 + 2 (gap between facades) + 193 – 35 = 357mm
3rd line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 552mm
4th line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 747mm
The roller guide mechanism consists of a pair of so-called rails, between which several (2 or more) small wheels are installed.
Roller guides are the simplest guides in terms of design and installation.
The latter ensure the movement of both parts of the device in two opposite directions, that is, they allow both increasing the length of the structure and returning it to its original state.
The movement occurs in one plane (usually horizontal) and is limited by the size of the runners.
The material of each component has a significant impact not only on the degree of mobility of the guides, but also on the durability of the entire mechanism. To maximize the service life of the device, the rails are made of metal, and to ensure the necessary travel for the runners, the rollers are made of plastic.
Roller guides for drawers.
The main reason for using roller guides is that there is virtually no friction between moving parts. But this process inevitably leads to damage and subsequent destruction of interacting surfaces and the structure as a whole.
You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.
In addition, due to friction, much more effort is required to move the skids, which also occurs at a lower speed.
The roller guides are coated with durable epoxy enamel.
Having their own set of useful properties, ball guides have been competing with roller guides for quite some time.
Ball guides, like roller guides, consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.
In the first case, a small ball acts as a component that provides mobility to the improvised rails, and in the second, a small roller.
Ball guide mechanism.
Roller guide mechanism.
And even though bearings containing spherical elements can be used in the manufacture of the latter, it is precisely this feature of the mechanisms that gave rise to their name.
Roller guides can withstand dynamic loads of up to 25 kg.
If we talk about the popularity of these devices, then roller products are still considered the most common.
The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they extend and close.
Their demand was influenced by the fact that ball guides are much more often found in a non-separable version. This does not so much impede installation or complicate installation, but seriously limits the scope of application of the mechanism.
There are many varieties of ball guides; they differ mainly in height, as well as in the degree of extension and the presence of a closer.
Using roller guides in drawer design
For some time now, the area of application of roller guides has been inextricably linked with furniture production.
It is in this area that such items are most often involved.
The device is usually used to make wardrobes with folding rods, shoe cabinets with hidden niches and cabinets with drawers. Since the latter are more common, they will be discussed further.
An example of using roller guides to pull out drawers in a cabinet.
The mechanism is fastened to the side walls of the box from the outside, which does not reduce the usable space of the box itself.
Roller guides are partial extension guides.
This means that you will not be able to pull out the drawer completely.
In order not to damage the back wall of the cabinet and not to detach the drawer from it, the runners contain special stops that take the form of artificial irregularities on the surface of the rails.
Correct calculation and installation are the basis for the successful use of roller guides.
And in order to provide additional options regarding the removal and installation of the box, the main components have technological holes.
Ball guides would not allow the drawer to be pulled out and inserted after assembling the furniture without disturbing its fronts.
Installation of roller guides for drawers
The use of a mechanism with pressure pushers, which also act as limiters, allows you to preserve the appearance of the furniture facades and its back wall without loss of functionality.
Cabinet with installed roller guides.
We install the drawers themselves inside the box and get a finished piece of furniture.
VIDEO: Installing roller guides.
50 photo ideas for drawers with various mechanisms:
Ball guides are actively used by furniture makers to pull out drawers. Ball guides are usually based on good quality iron, there are many modifications and there are also many manufacturers.
Ball guides so named because the movement of the components of the guides occurs due to metal balls, like in bearings. Durable steel balls move inside the profile, ensuring stable, easy sliding of drawers made of any material and any size, even under high loads. The design was invented by our Russian engineer Kulkov, so you can also find such a name as Kulkov guides. But the sale of such guides has been put on a commercial basis abroad.
Retractable baskets in sliding wardrobes and baskets for detergents are installed on ball guides. The pages of the site describe an interesting use of guides for pulling out original shoe racks in a wardrobe.
In principle, Tandem guides from BLUM can also be classified as ball guides. , which were almost identically copied by many other hardware manufacturers.
In this article we will look at ball guides from GTV , the brand is Polish, but recently it has also been produced in China, it seems that the quality has not suffered much from this. Guides GTV They are sold everywhere in the European part of Russia, their price is reasonable; closer to the East they most likely sell Chinese analogues.
Another name for ball guides that you may come across is telescopic guides.
T cabinet with drawers on ball guides.
Ball guides GTV.
Ball guides 17 mm high for drawers.
Guides with a height of 17 mm, length from 182 mm to 438 mm, support loads of up to 8-10 kg. Partial extension guides. The manufacturer recommends milling a groove 10 mm deep and 17 mm high on the side of the drawer. An excellent solution for use in chests of drawers. During installation, the guide assembly is attached to the side wall of the product, and then using screws to the side of the drawer.
Ball guides 27 mm high for drawers.
Guides with a height of 27 mm, lengths from 250 mm to 500 mm in increments of 50 mm, can withstand a load of 15 kg. Unlike the first option, they are disassembled; milling a groove on the side wall of the box is not required. To calculate the dimensions of the box in width, you need to remove 22 mm from the width of the internal opening of the product.
Ball guides 35 mm high for drawers.
Guides with a height of 35, lengths from 250 mm to 500 mm, can withstand a load of more than 20 kg, there are options for full extension. In general, it resembles a 27 mm high guide.
Ball guides 45 mm high for drawers.
Ball guides 45 mm high, the most common and actively used type of ball guides. There are different modifications with lengths from 250 to 700 mm. They can withstand heavy loads up to 36-38 kg.
The guides must be disconnected before installation; to do this, you need to raise or lower the black lever.
This disconnection system is found on most ball guides, including for baskets installed in cabinets in the kitchen.
The photo below shows a retractable basket for dishes with a fastening to the bottom turned upside down. We press the black lever and separate the basket from the guides, then there will be no problems with installing the basket.
To calculate the width dimensions of the box, it is necessary to subtract 26 mm from the internal width of the body, as for the roller guides.
They produce ball guides with a height of 45 mm of full and partial extension, with or without a closer. In addition, there is a ball guide system Push to open , that is, push to open, no handle required to open the drawer. Reminds me of a system called TIP ON for guides Tandem Bloom.
And the manufacturer Hettich has an official website http://www.hettich.com, There are ball guides for super-full extension.
Ball guide with system Push to open.
Installation of ball guides.
Let's look at the most common method for calculating ball guides, no program required.
We take our basic cabinet with a height of 720 mm excluding legs and a width of 600 mm with two fronts 356 m high, drawers 150 mm high. Boxes with a façade height of 356 mm can be made either 200 or 250 mm high, it all depends on yours or the customer’s wishes.
Ball guides usually attached along the center axis of the drawer side, although some prefer to attach closer to the bottom edge of the drawer side.
We will carry out the calculation for the option of installing the guide along the axis of the side wall of the box. Let's draw a simple drawing, maybe by hand, as in the picture. Before marking, decide what the gaps between the facades will be; in our version, the gap between the facades will be 4 mm, and 2 mm at the top and bottom.
Drilling axis of the first ball guide = 2+34+75 = 111 mm,
2 – this is a gap of 2 mm from below (the facade is superimposed on a horizontal thickness of 16 mm by 14 mm, 2 mm remains)
75 is the middle of the side wall of the box, the total height of the box is 150 mm. If the bottom of the fiberboard box is overhead, then the height, including the fiberboard, will be 153 mm. But for calculations we still take 150 mm.
Drilling axis of the second ball guide = 2+356+4+34+75 = 471 mm,
2 – this is a gap of 2 mm at the bottom
356 – height of the lower facade
4 – gap between facades
Horizontal axis of drilling the front wall of the drawer = 75 mm, we retreat 50 mm from the right and left edges of the front wall and get the coordinates for drilling the front wall.
Axis point X for self-tapping screws on the facade = 34+75=109 mm,
Where :
34 – distance from the bottom edge of the facade to the bottom edge of the drawer
75 is the middle of the side wall of the box
Axis point Y , for notches for self-tapping screws for the right and left edges of the facade = 50+16+13+14 = 93 mm,
50 – indents along the X axis from the edges when drilling the front wall of the drawer
16 – thickness of the side wall of the box
13 – clearance for installing a ball guide
14 – overlay of the facade on the side wall of the housing (that is, there is a 2 mm gap between the edge of the side wall and the edge of the facade with a thickness of the side wall of the housing of 16 mm).
Usually they don’t do any calculations, they simply drill four holes in the front wall of the drawer, measure the necessary indentations, place the drawer on the façade and screw in the first two self-tapping screws. They try it on, if it’s ok, then tighten the remaining two screws. No, they unscrew it, move it the required distance and check it again.
After the calculations, we move on to marking. We mark using a tape measure, an iron ruler, and a hard pencil. The places where the guides are attached using self-tapping screws are cored using a core punch or we make notches using an awl.
The most accurate markings and accuracy when installing ball guides will allow you to avoid distortions of the drawers and other problems with the further fastening of the facades.
The first point along the axis is 37 mm, the next points are in increments of 32 mm, see diagram. If the facades are inset, that is, they are located between the side walls, then add another thickness of the facade to 37 mm.
- Installation of ball guides
- Installing the mechanism to the side of the niche
- Results of the work
Installing ball guides for drawers is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Ball guides for drawers can be purchased from a specialty store. Of course, all the work can be entrusted to professionals, but they will have to pay. You can install similar elements on retractable structures yourself.
The main advantages of ball guides: low cost, smooth running, excellent wear resistance, ease of installation.
To install guides on drawers, you must have the drawer itself.
It comes with two ball designs. Before starting installation, you need to open them for ease of operation.
Each guide consists of two fixed, removable parts. To begin, the removable part of the system must be carefully removed. Now you can proceed directly to installation.
Installation of ball guides
Now each system consists of two parts. The first parts are attached to the box itself, and the second parts are attached to the side niche. The first component is attached to the side surface. Self-tapping screws are ideal for fastening. They can be installed flush. It all depends on the specific design. The front of the component should be flush with the front wall of the drawer.
Now we can talk in more detail about how to assemble this. The removable part of this structure has a large number of holes of various shapes. All these holes perform specific functions and tasks.
- holes that are located horizontally allow the guides to move back and forth over a certain distance;
- vertical elements make it possible to move elements up and down also at a certain distance;
- round holes serve to accurately fix the guides in a specific place.
Installation should begin with a horizontal hole. There may be a situation where the structure is not immediately flush with the front of the drawer. It is for setting the position that horizontal holes are needed. After setting the system in the desired position, you need to screw the screw into the round hole. The assembly doesn't end there.
It is worth noting the fact that horizontal holes are used only as temporary ones. After placing the elements in the desired position, they need to be fixed precisely due to the round holes. If this is not done immediately, the box will fall down over time.
This is the most common type of loop. And since we are talking about updating the kitchen set, we will consider the option of installing a hinge with a built-in closer.
There is nothing complicated about installing a furniture hinge. But immediately before installation, you need to have an idea of how this is done, so as not to spoil the new facade.
Tools and accessories
So, we will need:
- End mill, diameter 35mm
- Drill
- Screwdriver (or Phillips screwdriver)
- Pencil
- Shiloh or Kerner
- Construction corner
- Self-tapping screws 3.5*16, 4 pcs. on a loop
- Furniture hinge + strip
Calculation of the number of hinges per door
For high facades, more than two hinges should be installed. See picture below.
Facade preparation
Vertically the distance from the edge of the facade, depending on its height, is 70 - 150 mm.
The distance from the working side of the facade for a standard hinge is usually 21 - 22 mm 
Drilling holes for the groove
We make the hole for the hinge using an end mill. Before drilling, you need to make a small indentation using a center punch or an awl. In order to prevent the cutter from moving from the center.
The thickness of the facade is 16 - 18 mm, so it is necessary to ensure that the groove is no deeper than 12 mm and that the cut is uniform.
Installing the loop in the groove
We adjust it perpendicular to the edge of the facade. Then we mark marks for the screws with a pencil and tighten them. 
We attach the facade to the body
- Try the sash on the body and mark the future attachment points.
- Install strikers (picture below) using a self-tapping screw 3.5*16.
It is most convenient to make a canopy from the top hinge, because the facade is already fixed. And it won’t be difficult for us to secure the façade and the bottom strip.
Adjusting the hinges
After we have installed the hinges and hung the facades, we need to adjust the gaps so that the doors do not cling to each other.
The design of the hinges with a closer allows for horizontal, height and depth adjustments.
First, you need to visually determine the unevenness of the facade in relation to the body and whether the gap is even in relation to the adjacent door.
"Vertical adjustment"
We loosen the hinge screws, align the door and tighten it again. (Fig.1)
"Depth adjustment"
That is, we adjust the gap between the body and the facade. We loosen the eccentric on the hinge arm and adjust it back and forth, then tighten it back. (Fig.2)
