Carpenter's work table. How to make an outdoor workbench with your own hands. Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing metalwork work
Not a single workshop is complete without a workbench, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, since it must have a number of features that distinguish it from simple table and make it an indispensable assistant in the workshop. How to make a simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands from wood and we'll talk in this article.
Introduction
There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:
- Stationary. The desktop is installed in a specific place, it is integrated into the interior of the workshop and is not intended to be moved.
- Folding. The workbench is installed in a specific place in the workshop, but it has several positions and can be easily transformed. For example, one position can be working, the second folded (retracted), or the workbench can be transformed to perform different technological operations.
- Mobile. Simply put, it’s a table on wheels. It can be easily moved to any convenient place in the workshop. As a rule, it can also be foldable, so it has the ability to transform to change operating states.
The design of a wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.
General description of the workbench design
This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side, has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) into a vertical position. Thus, this design is well suited for rooms that have limited area, since free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.
A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:
| Name | Purpose and description |
| Tabletop | Working surface of the table |
| Frame | The supporting structure on which all other elements are based. |
| Support element | It is firmly attached to the wall and is one of the supports work surface. |
| Legs | Two support legs, structurally interconnected |
| Retainer | An element that is attached to the wall and serves to secure the folding workbench in the folded position |
All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.
Pre-production
Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare everything necessary tools and materials.
Tools and machines
During the production process, the following tools and devices will be required:
- or ;
- Miter saw;
- Drill or ;
- Level;
- Hand tools (screwdriver, hammer, etc.).
Materials and accessories
During the production process you will need following materials and components:
- 15-30mm thick (as an option or as a last resort);
- Beam (pine) 80x40;
- Piano loop;
- M10 bolts with nuts and washers (alternatively, you can use a hairpin);
- Self-tapping screws.
The process of making a carpentry workbench with your own hands
We will divide the entire production process into a number of simple technological operations.
Making a countertop
A sheet of plywood will be used to make the tabletop. There is no point in giving dimensions, since in each specific case the dimensions must be selected individually to suit the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at a given workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - the general idea and concept should be clear from the photos and videos.
- Surface evenness. If the tabletop shows signs of deformation and does not have a flat surface, then working on such a homemade workbench will be difficult, to say the least;
- Mechanical strength. The tabletop must be durable, that is, have greater resistance to mechanical loads. Since quite massive objects (machines or large-sized workpieces) can be installed on the desktop, the tabletop must withstand such loads and not deform during work.
- Surface strength. Surface resistance to external mechanical influences. This is how they are executed on the desktop various works related to the processing of materials, painting, etc., then the presence of a protective layer on the countertop will be an advantage and will protect the surface from wear.
At this stage, marking is made required sizes future tabletop and trimming along the intended contours.
Frame - the base of the future homemade workbench
The frame is the main load-bearing element of a wooden workbench. It must be durable, since the entire load will fall on it. We recommend making it from solid wood, for example, 40x80mm timber.
The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, but if you make the base with a denser material, for example, beech, birch or oak, the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.
The frame has a “U-shaped” shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.
To fasten the bars together you can use various types fasteners, but the simplest and universal method– this is fastening with self-tapping screws at the end. In this example, the method is used secret fastening self-tapping screws.
Yes, with this option the screws are hidden and cannot be seen, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as a fastening with self-tapping screws at the end, and also using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.
In this example, the frame is fastened to the tabletop using self-tapping screws that go “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this type of fastening is the simplicity and concealment of the screws. However, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three fastening methods described below:
- Through holes are made in the tabletop and self-tapping screws pass through the tabletop into the frame. With this option there will be the maximum strength of the structure. The disadvantage is obvious - the heads of the screws will be visible on the tabletop, although, of course, they can be easily recessed and hidden “flush”.
- WITH internal corner Several (6-9 pieces) corners are installed between the tabletop and the frame, which are attached to self-tapping screws. The top surface of the tabletop will not be damaged and the appearance will be neat. However, fastening with self-tapping screws that do not go through the tabletop is not so reliable. Below is a picture of an example of using an inner corner.
Installing the support element
The supporting element is a simple block of the same cross-section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which needs to be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main support point of the future homemade bench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it’s difficult to suggest anything better than “planting” it on screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation we will use a level for leveling.
The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is being created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85 standard height 720–780 mm from the floor level is considered. As a rule, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.
Fastening the frame with the tabletop to the supporting element can be done in various ways. The simplest is to use a roller loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).
In addition to the piano hinge, you can use various options for movable joints - simple door hinges, “frogs”, furniture hinges, etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our DIY folding workbench.
Installing the feet
In addition to the supporting element, our homemade wooden workbench will rest on a couple of legs. They need to be made foldable so that when folded they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.
Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a section from a stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to add much variety to the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same 80x40mm block. In order for the legs to fold, they must have curves on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.
Set the axis of rotation of the leg. It is absolutely clear that if you simply tighten the bot, it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a pair, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when tightening the bolt, the washers will sink into the soft wood and just a third of the washer will be needed to ensure clearance.
Thus, you can make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. The design is simple and can and should be modernized by each master to suit himself, his workshop, his technological operations, but this is only the basis that can serve as an idea for further development technical thought.
Video
If the main tools of a blacksmith are a hammer and an anvil, then for a carpenter there is nothing “more familiar” than his workbench. For people who work with wood, it can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, a stop and stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you want, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells you how to make woodworking tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawings presented in it will help even a beginner to install this structure.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make yourself a table. A table like a workbench, essentially. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.). I'll call it an assembly table.
In fact, the second name for a workbench is “assembly”. But, as you already understand, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be spent as much time as it takes to design the carpentry workshop itself.
General description of the carpentry workbench
At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex design and surprise others with your skills.
A good solid table is the basis. And everything else - vices, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are constant attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.
Workbench project
To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters that are optimal for you.
The first and most important thing you should pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, you will have to work for him for a long time. And you can get tired standing at a workbench that is too high or too low in no time.
The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that you can work while standing in full height and don't slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70...90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered arms. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will understand that working while standing at such a table is a pleasure.
Optimal height carpenter's table for standing work for a person of average height - 70-90 cm.
It is better to make the workbench cover, as well as the working surface, from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use particle board materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you follow their example. This is a bad design - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions it will quickly fail.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
5 years ago I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.
Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood pieces involved in the work, as well as special holes(sockets) for wedges and combs. Using wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be secured to the table surface. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.
The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the size of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the lid are 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.
The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beam 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not become loose under the influence of brute physical force.
Workbench installation
As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Installing a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The working surface should also be secured to the supports using self-tapping screws.
When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. After all, this can subsequently lead to rapid loosening of the workbench and even distortion of its supporting frame.
In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is mounted on the wall. This type of installation means that carpentry work will only be carried out when necessary.
CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member
In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench board - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening hand router and circulars, a flush metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts at the bottom located at the fastening points hand plane and a drilling machine consisting of a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it was raised vertically and fixed to the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, are two triangles from the same board. She laid herself on them while working.
This design is an excellent way out of a situation in which interior space workshop is very limited. But such carpenter's table does not withstand intense loads well, and it can be manufactured independently only in exceptional cases.
After you have mounted the frame and working surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and begin carpentry work, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by adding specialized equipment to the design.
Taking into account the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter’s workbench must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if the necessary tools are always at hand, then this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly arrange devices, fastening materials and power tools.
Rear and front clamps
Rear and side (front) screw clamps are those elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.
The rear clamp is designed to hold lumber while planing. As shown in the diagram, its vice blocks move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing the workpiece to be securely fastened using lead screws.
The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of a carpentry table for making it yourself. FORUMHOUSE member
The fact of the matter is that in the design of a workbench, a lower shelf is absolutely necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). We use a lot of tools and have nowhere to put them outside while working. And it’s also inconvenient in the workshop - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...
The underbench can be adapted for storing power tools. For greater convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves here for small parts, fixtures and hand tools.
Having made a workbench that has all the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional equipment. But each master will be able to guess for himself what options to use and what elements to add.
About the one from which you can later craft various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding , in the corresponding section of our forum. Any FORUMHOUSE visitor can become familiar with it by visiting a special topic created for discussion.
Any welder or turner needs workplace, where you can work with metal: processing, sharpening, cutting, grinding. For these purposes, you need a mechanic's workbench. The main difference between a metalworking workbench and a carpentry workbench is metal surface, while the surface of carpentry is made mainly of wood.
Main nuances
Most home craftsmen prefer not to buy a workbench, but to make it themselves. Firstly, a DIY metal workbench will cost much less than a purchased one. Secondly, when making a structure, you have the opportunity to realize your ideas, and finally, if everything is done correctly, the quality of a homemade workbench will be several times better than that of a purchased one. With some simple metal manipulation, a few tools, and some welding and cutting skills, you can get a pretty decent table.
When manufacturing, you should divide the workbench into components (for more convenient assembly) and take into account important nuances:
DIY workbench
First you need to decide where the workbench will be located and what you can attach it to. If the structure is angular, then best option in this case, start construction from the walls themselves, and they must be strong.
This option is good because amendments to the design can be made along the way, but if the master is inexperienced, then it is better to use another option. The optimal solution is to manufacture a workbench according to ready-made drawings. Of course, the cost of this option is several times higher, but the dimensions and material have already been selected and indicated in the drawing, which greatly facilitates the work.
The base is made of 35-gauge angle with a wall thickness of 5 mm. This material produces a stable structure. A 3 mm thick sheet is used as a working surface; under the sheet there are 60 mm thick boards, which ensures even greater rigidity of the structure. The table frame can be made from a thinner corner, since the load on it is minimal, and boards from 20 mm can be used. As for the remaining shelves, plywood is used as a pallet, the thickness of which ranges from 10 to 20 mm. Drawers are made of 2 mm steel. To make a bench, the dimensions are shown below.
The height and width of the vice table can be changed and adjusted to suit your needs. You will also need the following materials:
- Corner 35 mm, wall thickness not less than 5 mm.
- Angle 20 mm for the frame.
- For the support legs it is necessary to make plates from pieces steel sheet for attaching the workbench to the floor.
- Plywood.
- Timber 60 by 40.
After the frame is ready, it is necessary to strip the metal. Then, in order to avoid metal corrosion, the structure must be coated with a metal primer in 2 layers and then begin painting. Wooden elements It is also necessary to prime and, if possible, varnish. Wood treated in this way will last a long time and will not absorb moisture and rot.
Once the boards are dry, they can be laid on finished design. It is advisable to drill holes at the beginning and end of each board and attach them to the base using metal screws. The sheet, which will serve as a kind of shield against hammer blows, must be laid on the boards and secured with bolts or self-tapping screws to the boards. You need to lay sheets of plywood on all shelves and secure them in any way. The next step is to make the boxes themselves from sheet metal.
After the sheet of metal has been made according to the drawing, its side parts should be bent and scalded. The structure should look like this:
Weld a handle for pulling the drawer to the front part. Before installation, you need to prime and paint it in the same way as the frame itself. Place the finished boxes into the workbench.
It should be noted that this workbench does not have any space for feet. This, of course, is not entirely convenient, but on the other hand, you can put much more tools and workpieces. You can immediately attach a vice to such a workbench, drilling machine and other equipment.
locksmith table
For those who have little space for a workbench, suitable option, which combines a small bench with elements of a workbench. On such a table you can place the most necessary plumbing equipment. The design looks like this:
You can make such a table for the workshop from a corner 60 x 60 or 70 x 70. The corners need to be welded together to form a kind of rectangle. You can put boards or plywood on the bottom of the table, but before that you need to drill holes in the lower parts of the corner to attach the table to the floor.
It is advisable to prime and paint the structure. If the table will be in a dry, heated room, then to save money you don’t have to treat the surface. The tabletop requires a sheet 6-7 mm thick, under which boards should be laid to dampen vibration from hammer blows and work with power tools. The sheet is secured with bolts or metal screws.
All sizes are purely individual and are selected by the master independently.
This design is good because it takes up little space, and even a novice mechanic can make it.
This option is made from square pipe and a corner. The frame is made of a square pipe, and the corner will give the structure the necessary rigidity and is used for edging.
Tools for making a workbench:
- Welding machine.
- Grinder with sharpening split discs.
- Squares.
- Roulette.
- Plywood, angle and square pipes.
- Screws and drawer guides.
- Metal screws and anchors.
- Paint for wood and metal.
- Steel sheet.
The structure must be welded in such a way that the second part of the corners, in which the boards under the tabletop will be located, can be welded onto its upper surface.
Now you can start making a frame from the corners for the tabletop. The corners must be cut into two parts, 2000 mm long. You will also need two 750 mm corners. All this must be welded so that the boards under the table top fit into the grooves of the corner.
In order to weld the tool sheathing, you will need two 2000 mm corners and 4 950 mm corners. To strengthen the frame, corners 950 mm long should be fixed in the middle and two on the sides. The panel can be welded to the countertop as follows:
The next step will be to strengthen the structure using corners. This must be done as shown in the figure:
It's time to make plywood boxes. The process itself is simple: the plywood should be cut into blanks with a jigsaw, and then twisted with self-tapping screws. Drawers can be placed on both sides of the table, and their number can be from two to three. It is necessary to attach the guides to the drawers, but before that, two metal strips should be attached to each side, to which the guides will be attached.
Once all the components are ready, you can proceed to laying the boards on the workbench. The board should be no thinner than 50 mm and 2190 mm long. If you can’t find long boards on the farm, you can get by with short ones 74 cm long. Before laying, the boards should be treated with “anti-bark beetle” to extend their service life. The metal structure must be primed and painted. You need to secure a steel sheet on top of the boards.
At the very end, boxes are installed, and the tool stand is lined with plywood.
The last step is to ground the workbench to prevent electric shock. You can immediately attach a vice to the tabletop, sharpening machine And various devices. If desired, it is possible to run cables for sockets and additional lighting, which will make work even more comfortable.
As practice has shown, making a bench is a rather painstaking task that entails financial costs, but the master will receive only positive emotions from working on such a table. Your work will become much easier thanks to the fact that all the tools will be at hand.
Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have strived to arrange the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not correspond to the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost the same as industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and we'll tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.
The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of your design features a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, and it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:
- The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers intended for tools and any other work accessories.
Carpentry workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, the optimal solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be less thick. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:
- Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
- Stationary workbench used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
- A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.
Carpentry or metal workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creating a carpentry workbench involves a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It must be in close proximity to natural sources lights, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box
Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, and then place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, to build a workbench optimal material there will be planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For the tabletop, it is better to choose 5 cm thick boards, or a solid piece, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequence of actions
Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Installation of countertops;
- Installing equipment on a workbench.
Base assembly
Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.
Making a countertop and installing it
- When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which long nails are used, driven into the inside of the boards. The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.
- The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift during operation.
- In addition to the vice, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps and a stationary drill. high power, certain types of turning equipment, milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly carry out the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not discuss in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to its complexity this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.
To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only top part countertops, but also its end elements.
Most home craftsmen, who comprise the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have, to one degree or another, already solved the problem of organizing their workplace by arranging comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.
But there are also those who are looking closely at home handicrafts and are trying out this universal profession, which includes many specialties and is becoming a very useful hobby for the family.
First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful for those who have already found themselves in the role of a DIYer and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently set about arranging a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.
Types of workbenches for the workshop
A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing works. different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. Based on the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:
- carpentry;
- metalwork;
- combined.
Based on the design features, the following types are added to them:
- universal;
- folding.
Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with different lists of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you have experience home handyman convert into banknotes outside your apartment or the yard of your house, you can either choose a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.
But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable and here there are three options:
- carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of metalwork operations;
- a metalworking workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
- combined workbench.
Let us immediately note that the last option is not the best solution, since it does not allow full high-quality performance of both carpentry and plumbing types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.
Making a simple DIY garage workbench
The most a simple workbench for a home workshop there will be a fairly powerful table with a small set additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.
It’s good if it is possible to slightly transform it to perform metal or wood work, but more on that below.
To create such a workbench we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. 700 mm long, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For the 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 block available on the farm.
It will also be used for the top trim of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And at the back we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long pieces later.
If you have a tenoning tool, use it like we did.
If not, make them by hand or you can butt the pieces together using overhead metal fasteners.
Assemble the side posts as shown in the photo below.
After this, you can begin assembling the entire frame.
The central jumper inside the frame, made from the same 40x80 block, mounted on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from the old ones desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.
For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated fiberboard surface. We screwed a board to the front edge on metal plates, which will protect its edge from peeling during use. It will also serve as the basis for attaching a small bench vice with a clamp.
We attached the working surface to the frame using metal corners and got a fairly powerful general purpose workbench for our home workshop.
Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing metalwork work
If you primarily work with wood, then the logical thing to do would be to build a woodworking bench and make some modifications to the design for metalworking operations.
The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been proven over centuries, which has undergone virtually no significant changes until the present day. Its basis is a massive frame with tenon joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often stacked) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vice-clamps for fastening workpieces.
The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are planning to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and the width at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that to make large frames for verandas he was missing 20 centimeters in width.
The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the plan dimensions suit you and you are willing to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of appropriate sizes to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.
As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for a workshop with various materials for the countertop, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and different vice mechanisms. Now in order:
1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height to suit your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then the connection of its elements can be done in any way in a convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.
2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made glued wooden shields, sold in most construction supermarkets, or glue them together from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, constructing a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the tabletop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.
3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the workbench table top is extended with bars of appropriate sizes. The most popular are these clamping fixtures:
— carpentry lead screw with two guides made in Czech Republic Tr 24*5, 390/205 at a price of about 3 thousand rubles.
Spanish Piher carpentry vice, 150 mm, costing approx. 2 thousand rubles;
You can also make something similar yourself, using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transfer the same forces as a vice, but will make your clamp extremely economical and repairable, due to its low cost;
Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same pins, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 of these clamps on one vice.
4. Make holes for stop pegs in two directions opposite the vice lead screw. It is also useful to make them across the entire surface of the tabletop parallel to each other for secure fastening of large products.
5. Attach the workbench tabletop to the base using strong metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to secure it to the floor.
And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench version described in this section of the article.
Now, several options for devices for performing metalwork work on such a workbench.
- The simplest of them is to make a plate of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a frame of steel angle, kept separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered onto the tabletop if necessary.
- The main attribute of a metalworking workbench is a metalworking vice. In this case, we recommend using a vice with fasteners that do not require going through the workbench top.
You can, of course, adjust the holes for the stops to fit the vice fasteners, but with a thick pad you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vice directly to the tabletop of a carpenter’s workbench using an adapter bar-stand and a powerful clamp.
And the overlay should not cover the entire area of the workbench. There are a lot of options, the choice is yours.
Modification of a metalwork bench for carpentry work
Often, especially if the household has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a metalworker’s.
We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways We’ll tell you how to adapt it for carpentry work, especially since it’s not at all difficult. To fully use your bench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the bench vice and make several simple devices.
Let's take a closer look at them.
1. From the first picture below, when modifying a bench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the dowels (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a solid removable design) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make it secured using recessed clamps wooden overlay, with the entire depicted set of workpiece fastenings and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by a ladder at the workbench of the appropriate height.
There is nothing to say about the back stop; it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.
2. You can make an overhead planing board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the bar being processed) and screwing the bar from the bottom to the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns a metalworker's workbench into a carpenter's workbench.
3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for securing the workpiece also allows you to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw it with right side choose a stop and thickness of at least 50-70 mm for more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.
The method of installing the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:
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