How to make a simple workbench with your own hands drawings. How to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Types of workbenches for the workshop
U a thrifty owner a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or an extension to a house. Certainly, carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product famous brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the needs of the master. Cheap tables won’t last long – that’s for sure.
The most rational decision, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal sizes, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult about this for any man.
Selecting a workbench project
This is where you need to start. Any desktop is made for specific purposes and premises. Carpentry workbench is a generalized name. One is needed only for woodworking personal plot(for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small parts, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and installation location, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A – portable (mobile) workbench. This type of desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms(extension, garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to carry out minor works with small parts. The relatively light weight of the structure makes it easy to move it to another segment if necessary. As a rule, the maximum that can be equipped with such a workbench is a medium-sized vice and electric sandpaper. This will allow carpenter's table partially used for small plumbing work.
For household purposes home handyman The table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile purely conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for it in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing its legs to the floor (fill it with concrete, “fasten” it with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands - whatever you want.
Drawing up a drawing of a carpentry workbench
If the workbench is assembled for household use, then there are recommended linear parameters(in cm), which can be used as a guide. But this is not an axiom, so the master is free to change anything at his own discretion.
- Length – at least 180.
- Width work surface– 90±10.
- Workbench height – 80±10 (taking into account the thickness of the table top). When deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with wood will be effective and bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, conversely, rise “on tiptoe.”
What to consider:
- The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. These can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, or shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
- To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “sockets” in the tabletop to install limiters.
- To secure workpieces, it is advisable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. Optimal width their “sponges” are 170±5 mm.
- Desk location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of lamps mounted on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be taken into account. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose “working” hand is their right. Consequently, you will have to place additional equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Example of a workbench drawing
Selection of materials
Planed timber. It will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - at least 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal application, you can limit yourself to blanks 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For the tabletop minimum thickness– 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more efficiently. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform metalworking work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, “sixty”) and cover a small segment of the tabletop with sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.
A work desk is not installed in residential areas. And in the workshop there will definitely be changes in both temperature and humidity. That's why Wood recommended for making a workbench is hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are quite hard. Although for the tabletop of a homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
Wood that is too porous should not be used. Even high-quality treatment with antiseptics and oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the wood.
Fasteners
- Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side it was possible to install a washer, a groover and a nut. It is more difficult with other types of fasteners.
- Nails. How advisable it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are found quite often), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of comments are worth making.
- Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
- Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
- Thirdly, it is difficult to dismantle. For example, if it is necessary to repair a desktop with replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly driven “powerful” nail.
- Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - best choice. The most “problem” areas can be further strengthened metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly select the length of the fastener leg. There is a rule according to which it must exceed the thickness of the part being fastened by at least 3 times. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is in question.
Instructions for assembling a carpentry workbench
In the process of making a desktop with your own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion, even in one place, and everything will have to start all over again.
Making workbench parts
- This is easy to do using the dimensions shown in the drawing.
- Each sample is carefully polished.
- Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are treated to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
- Drying. This is worth emphasizing. Initiate this process It is impossible to use artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.
Assembling the supporting frame (workbench base)
Part of the fastening features have already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tongue-and-groove connection with wood glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).
Here you should take into account the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is in a room with good conditions, it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are quite justified. For work tables that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and especially under open air, “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial repairs will not be possible, and you will have to reassemble the frame.
Additional reliability of the structure can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. This is all thought out at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although “rework” can be done during the installation process.
Tabletop
This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (if there is significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.
- The width of the tabletop is selected so that its surface extends slightly beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, working on such a workbench will be inconvenient. And it will no longer be possible to secure the removable vice.
- The sides of the boards are carefully sanded. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
- The blanks are laid face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be tightened with thick screws. As a last resort, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.
- To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed to the frame using metal corners.
- After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).
Workbench equipment
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vice. They can be purchased ones that are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People experienced in carpentry make clamping devices on one's own.
In principle, a man who is “friendly” with the simplest tools should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if there are no sizes on them, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability we can say that new ones will appear, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or shed. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the table configuration, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling it yourself is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
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In any private home, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, and it also combines the functions of a table and a shelf for tools at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vice, and a sharpening machine can be installed on it various instruments. If you buy a metal workbench in a store, it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.
Required tools and materials
So for self-made For a workbench in the garage you will need the following tools:
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
- Roulette;
- Square;
- Construction level;
- Wrenches;
- Drill;
- Screwdriver.
Materials:
- bars for supports;
- 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut to fit the shelf required size);
- boards for the frame;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts;
- washers;
- nuts
Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.
Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench
To make the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).
Using self-tapping screws, secure 2 long and 2 short boards to form a rectangular frame. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicularly, between two long boards, secure the remaining short board, attaching it with self-tapping screws at both ends.
To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. WITH inside of the resulting base, secure one leg to each corner of the frame using bolts, washers and nuts (see diagram of the workbench).
To make the structure rigid, it is necessary to install additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this you need to saw off 4 boards.
Using a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance of 30 cm from each leg, at the resulting level, fasten the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fasten the board between the outer and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.
The remaining two boards must be secured to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.
From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw cut out the required sections. We fix them flush to the top of the workbench using self-tapping screws. Additionally, you can fasten a sheet of hardboard on top, because it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is very worn out. The bottom shelf is made using the same scheme. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the outer and middle legs of the workbench; a sheet of material is cut to this size and installed on the resulting base.
When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain an equal distance between parts of the structure. Using a level at the installation site, you need to check whether the workbench you made yourself is level. If there is a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.
A carpentry workbench is usually called a table of a special design with a hard and durable surface that allows various devices and mechanisms to be mounted on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted to rigidly attach additional stationary equipment to it (a circular saw, for example, or a router small size), used to process common materials such as wood or metal.
Before making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as some of the design options that are especially popular.
Design requirements
The operating characteristics of the workbench table are:
- Its height, adjusted to the user’s height, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
- Dimensions of the tabletop, chosen based on the possibility of placing everything on it the necessary tool, as well as taking into account the size of the workpieces being processed.
- A set of devices mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
- Adaptation “to the hand” of its owner, who may also be left-handed.
The most suitable option for self-production is the option of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a structure usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).
Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be stationary device, or it should be collapsible (collapsible).
Material selection
The most suitable material for constructing a stationary workbench is the wood from which load-bearing base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself. For the manufacture of frames, standard planed timber with a cross section of 100×70 mm is best suited. The same timber, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (100×50 mm, for example), can be used as auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base.
The workbench tabletop can be made from well-planed and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a ready-made solid sheet (an old solid door, for example) or a piece of laminated chipboard cut to the size of the table with a reliable and durable material can be used for its manufacture. coating.
When choosing a material, preference should be given to hard wood, such as beech, oak or maple.
Assembly of the structure
Making a workbench begins with assembling a frame base, onto which a tabletop of the type you have chosen is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed is as follows:
- First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, arranged in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a cross-section of 100×70 mm.
- These frames are then connected at the top by two longitudinal beams, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Note that in order to reliably fasten individual elements together in the design we are describing, it is best to use a classic “tenon-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the joining areas).
- The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of 100x50 mm timber, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (To fasten them, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the beam).
- In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and tenons are first prepared in the workpieces, after which the entire structure is assembled in one step (after applying glue to the joint areas).
During the assembly process, special attention must be paid to the following working point, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench, at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of individual elements correspond to the design data, and also to control the horizontalness of their installation using a building level.
If the tabletop is made from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no cracks in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.
When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws to transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the very base, special grooves must be prepared for these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded and then treated with a protective solution (drying oil is usually used for these purposes). To secure it to the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.
Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vises, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:
- It is most convenient to place the working vice at the end of the tabletop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. On the back side of the table in the fastening area, it is necessary to provide a plywood pad to protect the surface from damage.
- In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop to fix the workpiece in work area and making it easier to work with. On wooden tabletop It is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
- Sometimes stops are made by simply extending the tabletop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and covered on the reverse side with a limiting strip.
When there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench consisting of a table top that folds against the wall and a special folding frame.
This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width support posts folding workbench did not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).
It is also necessary to ensure that the upper cross member on the supports is located below the board with the hinge of the folding tabletop. The material for making a folding workbench table can be any monolithic piece of chipboard.
The supporting frames of the structure are made of 100x40 millimeter bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal plates, secured to the posts and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.
Video
This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:
Photo
I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.
I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time looking through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.
Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.
To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked to be suffering from a hangover, was taking out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal with water and wiped them dry. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.
On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.
And the base for the homemade tabletop was welded.
The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:
In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.
Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.
I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.
The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces would be useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it would be a bit expensive for one person.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.
Now I'm thinking about different options facades.
This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things like plumbing and electrical wiring.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.
Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.
He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.
After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.
Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The leaf was attracted to wooden base rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.
Registered permanent residents on the tabletop - sharpening machine and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.
1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.
Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.
While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything, everything, everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid one furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).
Well, actually, that’s why...
Test passed
Class! No more having to live with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - all in one place and at hand.
Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything
I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.
That's it.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost the same cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid of mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
This is the homemade workbench of your dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.
P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.
Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).
I'll finish it over time wrenches, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Luckily there are two square meters there is room to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a cast five pointed star, on the other there are numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.
The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are secured to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would have been better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.
The rest worked out great thing. All tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.
You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:
Home craftsmen sawing off wooden blanks on a stool - sooner or later they come to the need to make their own workbench for carpentry work. When performing simple tasks, you can get by with a universal work table and a couple of good clamps.
If you are serious about carpentry, you need the appropriate equipment. It doesn’t matter whether you make custom-made products or do something for your home. A homemade carpentry workbench will allow you to complete any product at a high technical level and save you a lot of time.
IMPORTANT! When discussing this issue, it is assumed that you have free space for work. Ideally - separate room in the form of a workshop. As a last resort - a high-quality canopy in the yard.
If you are going to do carpentry in an apartment, or on a spacious loggia, the only option is to purchase a folding metal workbench. Of course, it won’t be possible to process large wooden workpieces on it, but the quality of work and convenience will increase by an order of magnitude.
The main task of such a device is to securely fix a workpiece of any shape on a flat tabletop. Instead of a carpenter's vice, a system of sliding halves of the working plane is used.
The product is fixed using adjustable stops. There are holes in the table for their installation. The thoughtful design allows you to secure even round workpieces.
Availability longitudinal groove in the tabletop (also with adjustable width), allow sawing flat products without leaning on the edge, which requires the presence of an assistant holding the free side. The cut can be made in the middle using an electric jigsaw, controlling both halves of the workpiece.
Such tables can be supplemented with an electric plane, circular saw or milling machine, which expands the possibilities.
A similar folding workbench can be made from wood. True, the stability will not be the same as that of a stationary product.
And yet, full-fledged carpentry work cannot be performed on such devices. Firstly, the apartment is not very suitable for this. Secondly, the dimensions of folding workbenches limit the dimensions of the processed products.
Therefore, the majority of craftsmen who take a responsible approach to their work will prefer a full-sized homemade carpentry workbench to a store-bought universal table.
In addition, the finished machine does not provide for the individual characteristics of the master:
- Height, arm length;
- Whether the master is left-handed or right-handed;
- Preferences in processed products - the tabletop can be square or rectangular;
- Features of the room or area where the workbench is used.
How to make a universal carpentry workbench with your own hands
Before you look for a project or develop a drawing of a workbench of your own design, you need to understand how the system works. I would like to have a cutting area right away large workpieces, and a milling machine, and a drilling machine.
IMPORTANT! Any versatility impairs the specialized capabilities of the product. Some devices are still better used as separate devices.
Construction of a carpentry workbench
There are a great many designs, but the main components must be present.
