home > Projects > Brick heating stove. Installation of wood-burning brick stoves in the house. Layout and laying of brick kilns

Brick heating stove. Installation of wood-burning brick stoves in the house. Layout and laying of brick kilns

Brick kilns are a source of healthy atmosphere and fresh air(thanks to draft and constant renewal of air in the room), there is no need for additional installation of radiators; such structures accumulate heat well and warm the air simultaneously in several rooms.

Firewood as fuel is cheap, especially if your house is located in a suburban area. And preparing them yourself is very good for health.

During construction, it is necessary to strictly follow all instructions, follow masonry technology, monitor the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls. This will avoid distortion of the structure and possible breakdowns.

The optimal location of the stove is in the center of the house.

Heating;
For cooking (predecessors of modern stoves);
Cooking and heating (combination of the two previous models);
Special (the design is intended for special needs - drying clothes, etc.).

Heating stove with oven - step by step

It is advisable to carry out construction in the summer, at a constant air temperature.

For construction you will need: 220 bricks, three doors for the firebox (13x13 centimeters), a cleaning door (14x14 cm), a cast iron stove (38x35 cm), an oven (32x28x42 cm), a valve (27x13 cm), a sheet of asbestos cement, a grate - grate (20x30 cm), steel strip 4 mm thick (35x25 cm).

Laying instructions:

Before laying, we must build a foundation. We select the type of foundation after examining the type of soil and level groundwater. We wait for the foundation to completely harden and begin construction.

We print out the drawing, prepare a tape measure and a building level. Before construction, it is recommended to lay out the stove without mortar as a practice to avoid mistakes in the future. We will number the rows along the course of the laying for convenience. Be sure to use plumb lines and check the quality of the brick (no chips or cracks). Soak the bricks in water.

We lay out the first two rows according to the drawing, continuous. To do this you will need 10 bricks for each row.
In the third row, we lay the ash pan and install the blower door (we attach it to wire and special metal fasteners).
4: we build this row, checking the order, building up the walls.
5: building brick floor above the blower door, we lay the grate (don’t forget to leave a small gap from the metal grate to brickwork, pour sand into the gap).
Next, we take an asbestos cord and wrap it around the frame of the combustion door. We build the sixth row, clamping the door fastening with bricks.
The seventh and eighth row - we build up the walls, observing the order, again checking the drawing.
In the ninth row, we lay bricks on top of the firebox door, creating a ceiling above it. In this row we begin to build a smoke collector and finish it by the eleventh row.
To separate the cooking area and the smoke exhaust channel, we lay a strip of steel, which will additionally support the bricks laid on edge. We fix the cast iron hob (row number 12).
From the thirteenth to the fifteenth row we lay out the bricks “on edge”. We cover the cooking chamber with a layer of asbestos cement.
Sixteenth row - we build the bottom of the first channel, which will be located horizontally.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth rows we install a cleaning door and build up the walls of the oven.
Nineteenth row - we block the door from above with bricks. We form a jumper in the center of the smoke circulation.
The twentieth row according to the drawing (we build the walls of the furnace by tying the previous row).
The next two rows (21-22) are the construction of a cleaning hole and the completion of the smoke circulation masonry.
After this, we install the oven, and up to the 27th row we carry out the masonry according to the drawing. In rows 27 and 28 we leave space between the bricks to clean the oven.
Then we completely cover the furnace and install the valves (29-31).
From the thirty-second row we build a chimney and take the chimney to the street.

How to light a brick stove with wood?

We inspect the furnace and pipes for cracks. If there are any, cover them with a clay solution. We clean the stove from combustion products. We prepare the firewood. We warm up the chimney. We put firewood in the firebox, leaving the ash door ajar for air access. To ensure even burning of the firewood, stir it with a poker as it burns. It is optimal to add additional firewood after the formation of the first coals.

Making a wood-burning stove for your home: Instructions for building a brick stove

This stove is optimal for heating two rooms or a house with an area of 30-40 sq.m.

The stove has three smoke channels located vertically. Their length is more than four meters. It has two heating modes - summer and winter.

For work we purchase:

solid ceramic bricks grade M175 - 400 pieces;
fireproof bricks – 20 pieces (ШБ8);
two-burner cast iron stove 70x40 cm;
valves 28x18 cm - 2 pieces;
fire door 27x30 cm;
2 blower doors 15x16 cm;
masonry tools (trowels, mortar containers, etc.).

We build a foundation for the furnace and begin laying out the first row. It is the most important, as it determines the dimensions of the furnace. The thickness of vertical seams is no more than 8 mm.

Second row: we bandage the initial row and lay the foundation for the fireproof cutting.

Third row: we form a chamber for collecting ash and install the ash door.

Fourth row: we continue the construction of the ash collection chamber. And in the future we will line the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. In the same row, we fasten the cleaning door and form the lower horizontal channel.

Fifth row: we cover the blower door with one solid brick, since its length is only 14 cm. We continue the construction of a horizontal channel and a fire separation between the stove and the walls of the house.

Sixth row: we overlap the cleaning door and the horizontal lower channel. At the same time, we see two vertical smoke channels of 12x12 cm being formed.

Let's designate the left channel as number 1 (it will be directly connected to the chimney), the right one as number 3 (a long channel for the passage of gases and heating the stove in winter). The dimensions of the release channel are 25X12 cm.

Seventh row: we continue to form the channels and install the combustion door.

Eighth row: we tie row number seven and form the second vertical channel of the oven.

We install the summer valve. If it is opened, the smoke will flow directly into the chimney without overheating the room. If the valve is closed, the flue gases will enter channel number 3 and travel along a long path, heating the entire furnace structure and, accordingly, the room.

The ninth row is similar to the eighth. We prepare a support for installing the fire door locking.

Tenth row: close the combustion door and connect channel 1 and channel 2. The transition will take place here flue gases from the second channel to the first when firing in winter mode.

We cut out slots for the grate from fireclay bricks and place them inside the oven. We insulate the back wall with mineral wool.

A wood-burning stove in a country house or country cottage can be a more than useful acquisition. It is completely autonomous from external networks. Where electricity is often cut off and centralized gas supply is still not implemented, people cook with wood and heat the house with it.

If a decision is made to provide housing in such a way useful device, it doesn’t hurt to study the types of brick stoves for your home in order to choose the most convenient, efficient and practical option.

We propose to understand the traditional design of the furnace, structural and operational features various heating and cooking units, as well as learn the methods and specifics of arranging a smoke circulation system.

Any brick oven consists of the main elements:

foundation - the base on which a brick unit rests, weighing several tons;
array - part of the stove, including cooking and combustion chambers, a system of smoke channels - smoke circuits, a ash pan with a grate;
chimney - a chimney pipe rising above the stove mass.

The foundation for such a bulky and heavy structure is arranged separately from the main foundation of the house.

If there is a strip or column base under the building, you need to make sure that it does not come into contact with the foundation of the stove. This will avoid the occurrence of deformations from an unevenly distributed load, because under a brick unit it will be much higher.

The design of any heating and cooking stove consists of the main elements that provide sufficient draft: a blower, a grate, a firebox and smoke circulation channels

Monolithic foundations in private houses, especially small ones, are rare. If there is one, the stove can be installed directly on it. It is best to include the construction of such an object in advance general project. When the house is already ready, the appearance of such additional load should be agreed upon with an experienced engineer.

The base of the furnace separates the combustion or gas chamber from the foundation. These are several rows of solid brickwork, which heat up and release some of the heat to the room, and also protect the base from overheating.

Above the base they make what is called a firebox. Below, under the combustion chamber, a small cavity is arranged - an ash pan. Above it is the actual firebox, in which the fuel burns. The blower and firebox are separated by a grate made of durable cast iron.

The firewood is placed directly on this grate. Through the blower and grate, the air necessary for combustion enters the fuel. At the same time, the necessary draft is created to remove smoke gases through the chimney system. But its design depends on what type of brick oven was chosen for the house.

The device can also be supplemented with elements such as a hob and oven. There are options for stoves with drying chambers and even with warm beds. Understanding the principles of the design and operation of such a structure will help you choose the right type of stove, as well as resolve issues related to its construction.

Various functional purposes

First you need to decide on the functions that the device will perform.

This could be a stove:

only for cooking;
exclusively for heating the house;
to perform both of these functions, i.e. combined option.

Cooking oven Most often they are installed in small free-standing kitchens. The heat from burning wood is abundantly enough not only for cooking, but also for heating such a room.

Therefore, the device is placed next to two external walls so that excess thermal energy moves outside. In this case, the chimney is strictly vertical and small in size.

Heating stove. The design provides for maximum retention of thermal energy within the house. Such a device has neither a stove nor an oven, but the oven array is equipped with an extensive smoke circulation system.

A bulky chimney is necessary so that combustion products do not leave the house too quickly and have time to heat the brickwork, which then gives off heat to the air inside the premises. Such a stove is placed as close to the center of the house as possible so that individual rooms are heated evenly.

Device details stove heating in a private house is presented in.

A brick hob with a metal oven can be an excellent alternative to conventional gas equipment if there is no gas or electricity

For its installation, both a hob and a branched chimney are used. They place it in the kitchen, but not near the outer walls, but next to the inner ones. The chimney is also, if possible, shifted towards the living rooms in order to provide them with sufficient heat.

Types of heating and cooking stoves

History goes back centuries, if not millennia. IN different countries the best models received well-deserved distribution.

Such designs are still used today, both in their classic form and with some additions.

Russian stove: complex and effective

The traditional Russian stove is a large, versatile device. Although there is no cast iron cooktop, you can cook food on it. The massive body perfectly warms the room, and in the upper part there is a warm bed.

The traditional Russian stove is complex, but after a short period of active combustion it glows for 24 hours, warming the room, the bench and providing the opportunity to cook food

The long firebox is divided into two zones: the bakery, located in the front part, and the firebox, where the wood is burned. This oven operates in two modes. First, it is heated for some time. During this period, the device accumulates heat. After this, the heated stove glows for about a day, slowly releasing thermal energy.

During this period, in the bakery you can prepare various dishes with that unique taste that no other cooking unit can give them. The characteristics of the Russian stove are determined by the special nature of the movement of air flows inside the device.

The design of the Russian stove contributes to maximum conservation of thermal energy due to the fact that streams of smoke and fresh air move side by side, exchanging heat, but without mixing (+)

In front of the fuel chamber there is a so-called bend, the area above it is called the overpipe, and even higher there is a tapering top - hailo.

Thanks to this device, a recovery zone is formed in the combustion chamber, where the smoke coming out of the firebox heats up the oncoming flow of fresh air. In this case, the flows do not mix, oxygen enters the furnace in full.

The arrangement of the fuel chamber is also unusual. The bottom of the firebox is uneven; it is laid out with a rise relative to the cooking chamber. The upper arch is also not horizontal, it is higher in the rear, lowers closer to the mouth and ends with a threshold.

A long cavity called an oven is made between the base and its fuel chamber. It is always warm here; it is often used for storing firewood. In such conditions, the fuel dries well, it burns faster and transfers heat better.

On our website there is a block of articles devoted to the independent construction of different models of Russian stoves, we recommend that you read:

“Dutch” - a simple heating unit

The Dutch stove was originally created for heating. It differs from the traditional Russian one in its simpler and easily modernized design. The design and dimensions can vary depending on the situation, for example, on the size of the house.

An interesting feature of the Dutch oven is its tile decoration. It was from the Netherlands that this option migrated to Russia and is now widely used for interior decoration

At the bottom there is a combustion chamber, at the top there is an extensive network of smoke circuits, including several vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal jumpers. As a result, the path along which smoke travels is lengthened, and heat remains in the house.

The vertical channels of the Dutch oven flue exhaust system can be made as high as necessary. They are built up to the entire height of the second floor, and sometimes to the third or fourth floor, in order to properly heat the entire house

In modern versions, the “Dutch” is also supplemented with a hob, but initially the hearth was installed separately for these purposes.

Swedish oven: an interesting combination option

Another interesting option for a novice master, this is a Swedish stove. Its design was developed by Swedish scientists not so long ago, in the middle of the 18th century. They took the Dutch one as a basis and greatly improved it.

The Swedish oven is the result of careful calculations. With quite compact dimensions, it warms up quickly, allowing you to cook food, heat the house, etc.

The lower part of such a stove is wider; at the bottom, in addition to the combustion chamber, there is an oven installed on the side. As a result, the first heat from fuel combustion does not escape through the chimney channel, but works to warm up oven. If you open it, the heat will warm the floor and rise up.

The firebox itself is a version of a simplified bell, where both primary combustion of fuel and chemical secondary combustion take place. A niche is made in the upper part of the structure, which was traditionally used for drying clothes that got wet during the day.

A characteristic feature of the “Swedish” is three niches located on different levels. Explanations for the diagram: 1 – oven, 2 – hob, 3 – niche above the stove

An oven installed on the side of the firebox quickly accumulates primary heat. The cabinet above the stove was used to store food prepared in the evening; by morning it remained warm and quickly reheated in the oven.

The vertical system of smoke circulation channels warms up the house well, but when the firebox is open, the heat quickly evaporates; you just need to remember to cover it after firing.

This stove is heated twice a day. The efficiency of the “Swedish” stove is almost as high as that of the Russian stove, while folding it is easier, cheaper, and it takes up less space. But high efficiency is achieved through accurate calculations, so during laying you will have to strictly observe the dimensions and proportions.

Smoke circulation options for brick stoves

The efficiency of a wood-burning stove largely depends on the type of its chimney. Properly organized movement of smoke gases allows you to retain heat and effectively remove fuel combustion products without endangering the health of the occupants of the house.

This design could be:

with horizontal channels;
with vertical channels;
combined.

Based on the direction of movement of flue gases, stoves with smoke circulation are divided into direct-flow and counter-flow. In the second option, the smoke, before flying out into the chimney, makes several revolutions inside one of the smoke chambers. At this time he is moving in two different directions.

System with horizontal channels used infrequently. It heats the oven more evenly, but for each horizontal level you will have to make a cleaning door. A modification of such a chimney can be an option with pockets. These cavities will trap smoke for some time and increase the efficiency of the stove.

A horizontal chimney is simple to implement and less susceptible to blowing out than its vertical counterpart. The addition of pockets will make the oven more efficient

Vertical channel. The operating principle of such a chimney was described above as characteristic feature Dutch ovens. In such a system, less soot accumulates and is easier to clean.

But here the resistance to the movement of the smoke flow increases, so it is necessary to make such a chimney long enough to ensure normal draft. In the vertical version, the first channel warms up more than the others.

This temperature difference can cause damage to the masonry. To improve the situation, you can arrange a cross-flow option, in which the middle channel is made much wider than the outer ones. The cross section here will be larger, this will slow down the flow rate and make heating more uniform.

The chimney bell system allows you to retain more heat for a long time. A similar effect can be achieved by creating combined structures using various elements.

Unlike a vertical smoke circulation system, there is no danger of rapid blowing out of gases and cooling of the stove. The dimensions and configuration of the cap may vary.

When designing a stove, you can combine hoods with vertical chimney elements to obtain an efficient design and increase efficiency.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Heating stove - “Swedish”:

Small “Dutch”:

Brick stoves are very diverse; you can always choose or design an option that is suitable for specific conditions. General requirement for all models is an exact calculation, use quality materials and proper operation.

Do you have anything to add or have questions about choosing a brick stove for your home? You can leave comments on the publication, participate in discussions and share own experience using stove heating. The contact form is located in the lower block.

The history of the wood stove goes back centuries, if not millennia. In different countries, the best models have received well-deserved distribution.

Such designs are still used today, both in their classic form and with some additions.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent it from giving off accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size is justified by the presence of free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the bed where you can cook food. Next to the firebox there is a stove, and just below there is a vent that keeps the fire going. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily heat a room larger than 40 square meters. But a full-fledged robot will require a lot of raw materials.

Swede

Refers to compact options. Length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusual thing about such a stove is that the stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced with the help of dampers.

Fireplaces and combined stoves-fireplaces

Furnace diagram

If we talk about stoves and fireplaces, then we immediately imagine some kind of brick building that serves as decoration for the apartment. However, a decorative fireplace and a fireplace stove are not the same thing. Considering devices associated with the word “fireplace”, we can distinguish the following varieties: decorative (artificial) fireplace, working fireplace and fireplace stove. An artificial hearth is a design element, and not equipment for heating a living space. Real fireplace consists of a portal, firebox and chimney. Folding it won't be too difficult. Depending on the installation method, there are 3 main types:

Corner fireplace. It is installed in the corner of the room. This arrangement allows you to heat several rooms at once.
Closed fireplace. It takes up very little space as it is located in the wall of the house. The furnace is installed during the construction of the building.
Open fireplace. Usually it is arranged in the middle of the room indoors large area. In this case, the chimney is suspended using special chain fastenings.

Brick stoves-fireplaces can have various shapes according to the chosen style. The classic version is a U-shaped design with decorative elements. D-shaped construction is typical for country style. The rectangular or semicircular hearth reflects the Art Nouveau style.

The fireplace stove is a kind of hybrid household oven and a fireplace. The device quickly heats the room and is suitable for preparing any dishes, heating water and food, drying mushrooms and fruits. Masters of stove art offer whole line various designs that are conveniently placed in a house of any layout (Fig. 6). In inclement weather, a brick stove-fireplace creates special comfort in the house.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name due to the fact that they wide application in the Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type; the room is heated by heat transfer from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type include:

The ease of the device of this design;
Light weight;
The cost of such a model is quite budget-friendly;
It has good heat transfer, traction and high efficiency;
Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
A correctly folded structure is very aesthetically pleasing.

Brick oven "finka"

Drawing of a Finnish stove

The Finnish stove has a very large combustion chamber

Typically, such products are installed in the center of the room.

Classification of brick stoves

From the very name heating stoves, it becomes clear that these stoves are designed for heating premises, both residential and non-residential (garage, hangar, greenhouse, etc.).

– How are brick kilns constructed?
– What types of brick kilns are there?
– What are direct-flow or bell-type furnaces? What is the difference?

In this article we will look at the options heating stoves made of brick. The variety of such ovens is great and they differ primarily internal device smoke channels.

Oven with horizontal channels

In such a system, a cleaning door must be installed on each horizontal channel to remove ash and soot that settles on horizontal surface channels. In such a stove, hot gases do not linger in the stove itself, but give off heat only as they move towards the chimney.

Oven with horizontal channels and heat pockets

In this furnace design, there are thermal pockets in the channels in which heat accumulates. The average cross-section of the channel along its entire length became larger, which led to a decrease in the speed of gas movement. At a lower speed of gas movement, heat transfer from hot gases to the body of the furnace itself increases. This furnace design has a higher heat capacity and, accordingly, higher efficiency.

Furnace with vertical channels

Such a system of channels creates greater resistance to the movement of gases, which is both a plus and a minus of this system. The downside is that you need a higher chimney to draw gases through the stove channels. Plus, such a stove is less likely to blow out due to greater resistance in the channels. Accordingly, this system is more heat-intensive than the first option. The second drawback is overheating of the first channel, and as a consequence the occurrence of serious internal stresses. (read: cracking of the furnace body masonry).

Counterflow furnace

This system differs from the system with vertical channels (version 2) in that the lower channel in it is wider. This leads to the fact that the speed of gas movement in it decreases and the heat exchange between hot gases and the walls of the furnace itself increases. This option is preferable to option 2.

Bell furnace

This system is designed on the principle of free movement of gases. There are no thermal channels in it through which gases move, but there is a hood. Hot gases, having risen to the top, cool down (giving up their heat to the stove) and go down and out into the chimney. After all the wood in the stove burns, hot gases remain in the hood and continue to give off their heat. Such a stove does not require a high chimney. Such a stove is practically not blown out. The cap or caps can be of different shapes and sizes, which allows you to make an oven of any shape and size. In bell furnaces you can use any fuel – even gas and electric heaters. Bell furnaces have higher efficiency and are more economical. This system is more profitable than options 1 2 3.

The use of combined smoke circulation systems in furnaces is allowed. There are different combinations and there are a lot of them. When designing, it is possible to combine vertical, horizontal turns and caps in different versions.

Stove with a combined smoke circulation system

As an example, a combination of horizontal channels with a counterflow system. There is also a direct flow system.

Smoke circulation of a furnace with a direct flow system

Smoke circulation of a furnace with a direct flow system and dissections

Such a system is not suitable for a heating stove, but is suitable for fireplaces, barbecues, Russian stoves and, in some cases, for sauna stoves. You can, of course, improve this scheme by adding a heat load with cuts, but still, such a system is not suitable for heating a room. Heating stoves allow the use of additional functions. Common options for such stoves:

Heating stove with hob. Such a stove not only heats the room, but also allows you to cook or heat something on the stove. The disadvantage of this stove: low firebox, lower heat capacity of the stove itself, relatively quick cooling of the stove through the stove.
Heating oven with bread chamber (oven). Such a furnace has a higher heat capacity and is significantly superior to a furnace with a welding plate. There are two options for this oven:
– permanent action. Hot gases do not pass through the oven itself, but heat it only from below or from all sides. The so-called clean bread chamber.
– periodic action. Hot gases pass through the oven, heating it from the inside. Cooking in such a stove can only be done after the wood in the firebox has completely burned.
Heating stove with water register. This stove allows you to heat water radiators (radiators) and distribute heat throughout the room. But it is better to use a specialized furnace-boiler for this purpose.

Heating stoves can be combined. You can simultaneously install a stove and an oven, a register and an oven, etc. You can make a stove with two fireboxes. Each firebox works for its own load (which is more correct). Such heating stoves can be combined with a fireplace (open or closed). Also, such stoves can be made with a stove bench and or with a heating panel on the second floor.

There are a lot of options for heating stoves. You can always choose for yourself the stove that best meets your requirements.

Brick stove shapes for home

In addition to the specific functions, other parameters can be used to classify brick kilns.

The following types of stoves for brick houses are found in shape:

Rectangular. It is easiest to build such structures.
Square. They have the most compact sizes.
Corner. Great option for small rooms and rooms with complex configurations.
Round. A very exotic and beautiful option.
T-shaped. The most traditional type of brick stoves for the home.

The shape of the stove is usually chosen based on the specifics of the installation location and the preferences of the home owners.

There are also varieties of home stoves based on the firebox model, where the main parameter is the wall thickness:

Thick-walled. They are characterized by the highest efficiency.
Thin-walled. They are equipped only with cooking types of brick stoves.
Combined. Typically used in heating and cooking stoves for home use.

As a rule, ready brick structure The furnaces are additionally finished in one way or another.

For these purposes the following can be used:

Plaster.
Decorative brick.
Tiles or stove tiles.
Special metal case.

The choice of finishing option mainly depends on the overall interior of the home and the type of brick stove. The first three options will require the use of a special heat-resistant solution based on high-quality clay. In principle, for this you can use the same mixture on which the laying was carried out. Factory-packed dry powders are especially good in this regard: to prepare the finished solution, they must be diluted in water in the proportions indicated on the packaging. In the case of plaster, an additional steel reinforcing mesh is usually used, which is fixed to the brick walls. Plastering works It is allowed to carry out only after the masonry has completely dried.

Regarding cladding with decorative brick or tiles, then for these purposes only special heat-resistant samples that can withstand significant temperature fluctuations can be used. In some cases, brick walls are left without any finishing, but for this the masonry must be done to the highest possible quality. This is also permitted in cases where external design The furnace does not have any special requirements. This happens, for example, if the heating structure is built somewhere in a garage, barn or greenhouse.

Types of chimneys

An additional parameter when choosing a stove design is the shape of the chimney.

She may be:

Direct flow.
Counterflow with vertical or horizontal channels.
Single-turn or multi-turn.
No channels.
With bottom heating.

Structural elements of furnaces

Illustrations	Description of elements
	Foundation. This structural element takes on the load from the entire structure. That is, the foundation is the base onto which the weight of the firebox, chimney and other massive and heavy parts is transferred. The foundation is placed directly on the ground and repeats the design of the foundation on which the house is built. The stove foundation is built separately from load-bearing walls, from the foundation of the house, etc. If the wall is located nearby, a gap of 3-5 mm is maintained when building the foundation. The gap is needed so that the base under the heavy brick building was independently movable relative to the elements in the structure of the house.
	Shantsy. These are the first few rows in the furnace design, starting from the foundation. The use of trenches allows you to increase the heat transfer into the room. The best option is 2-3 rows of brickwork, starting from the foundation.
	Blower (ash chamber). This structural element performs two functions: Provides air supply to the firebox, which is necessary to create draft and combustion. It accumulates ash, which, as the fuel burns out, falls down from the firebox through the grate. In order for the blower to perform the listed tasks, a door is installed in it. By opening the door to the desired width, you can control the draft. Again, accumulated ash can be removed through this door. The instructions for using the blower are simple - after the fuel has burned out, the door must be completely closed. As a result, warm air will remain in the firebox and will not go down the chimney
	Firebox (firebox). A firebox is a chamber designed for burning coal, wood or other types of solid fuel. When constructing the firebox, fire-resistant fireclay bricks are used. To protect the room from sparks and hot coals, a fire door is installed at the entrance to the firebox. The traditional Russian stove is made with an open firebox, that is, it does not have a door. At the bottom of the firebox there is a grate. In the part of the firebox furthest from the door, at the top there is a hole (higho) designed to remove smoke. To prevent ash and hot coals from falling out through the open firebox door when operating the stove, in the lower part of the firebox, before installing the door, the level rises slightly so that it looks like a step
	Smoke channels (smoke circulation). These elements simultaneously remove smoke from the firebox to the chimney and remove heat. In order for the smoke to give off its heat, the smoke channels are made as long as possible. As a result, the temperature at the channel inlet and outlet can differ significantly. But the arrangement of smoke circulation is planned in such a way that these channels can be cleaned from time to time from accumulated soot. Incorrectly designed smoke ducts are the reason for the furnace to cool down quickly, since most of heat goes up the chimney. Otherwise, improper design of smoke channels makes draft difficult, which also reduces heating efficiency
	Chimney (chimney). This element is directly connected to the smoke channels and is designed to create draft. The draft is created due to the difference in pressure in the firebox and at the outlet of the chimney; Accordingly, the higher the pipe, the more thrust there will be.

How to choose a stove for a brick house

When choosing a brick stove for your home, you should decide on the functions it should perform. In addition to the presence of a cooking panel, it is worth noting following criteria:

If the oven is intended to be used as heating device, it must be economical;
If you decide to lay out the stove yourself, make sure that the design is simple, this will allow you to easily cope with subsequent installation;
The oven must have a water circuit;

Many owners of country cottages prefer to install decorative stoves to give a special design to the room. In this case, the best option would be a classic Russian stove; ease of use.

Important! When choosing a brick stove for your home, you should consult a professional stove maker. He will help you choose the best option, tell you what material to use and how to lay it.

How to choose a location for the stove

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location would be built-in into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of the house, you can get by with one heating structure, if the heat-transferring surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they open.

It is very important to correctly determine the location of the brick kiln.

The location chosen for construction must be carefully measured and some points taken into account:

The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick stove must fit well into the space in terms of its height.
The foundation for the furnace must be 110÷120 mm larger than its base, and an area of suitable size must also be provided for it.
When laid upward, the chimney pipe should not collide with the floor beams or rafter legs roofing structure.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What nuances do you need to know before starting to lay the stove?

Brick stoves for a wood-burning house in some situations are a necessity, since they may be the only way to heat a residential building due to the lack of gas supply and in order to save electricity. However, very often stoves are installed additionally, as they can not only save the family budget from unnecessary expenses, but also bring comfort to the house, providing it with special healing warmth.

Despite the emergence of various modern species heating, brick ovens remain in demand today. This encourages both engineers and craftsmen to continue working on new designs, which is why more and more advanced, functional and heat-intensive heating structures appear.

There are quite a lot of models of brick kilns, and choosing the right one from them will not be difficult. But it is necessary to take into account several important conditions, which are mandatory for the efficient and safe operation of this home assistant - a real stove.

Variety of furnace designs

Brick stoves, according to their functionality, can be divided into three main categories: cooking, heating-cooking and heating structures, for example. In addition to them, there are also multifunctional options, including a fireplace, a hot water tank and even a water circuit - for heating an area larger than the building itself can heat alone. Therefore, if you decide to install a brick stove in your house, first of all you need to decide on the choice of model.

The cooking version of the stove is usually chosen for installation in dacha conditions, if the owners live there only during the summer season. Sometimes such a stove is installed in a private house in addition to a gas or electric heating– in order to save fuel, which is more expensive than firewood. A hob is usually equipped with a hob, an oven, and sometimes a hot water tank. It usually has a fairly compact size, but is still capable of heating the room in which it is installed. It should be noted that this option will not be superfluous in any house, especially since this building itself will not take up much space.

A heating and cooking stove is a whole multifunctional complex

A heating and cooking stove is a complex that may include several functions necessary for everyday use - this includes a hob, an oven, a tank for heating water, niches for drying plant products, a stove bench, a fireplace, and sometimes a water circuit. Similar design will help out in any situation, so it is most often installed in cases where there is no other heating in the house. However, they are often in no hurry to abandon such stoves even if there is a gas heating boiler in the house.

The heating stove is intended only for heating a house or bathhouse. The design does not have a hob or oven, but a water heating tank can be built in and a fireplace function can be present. Such a stove can heat two or even three small rooms, if properly installed in the walls between rooms.

In addition to the functional purpose, it is necessary to decide on the shape and size of the stove. This criterion will depend on the layout of the house and the area that can be allocated for its installation. You also need to take into account the heat capacity of the structure, that is, an indicator that determines how much area the selected stove can heat.

Thus, large stoves with thick walls are able to distribute heat over a large area, but the duration of their combustion to achieve heating is about 1.5–2 hours. Compact, small-sized stoves heat up and release heat much faster, approximately within 35-40 minutes. Moreover, in order to heat them, less fuel is required, which means they are more economical. Therefore, when choosing a model, you must definitely find out its power characteristics and what area they are designed for.

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Choosing a location for installing a brick kiln

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location would be to be built into the walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of the house, you can get by with one heating structure, if the heat-transferring surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they open.

The location chosen for construction must be carefully measured and some points taken into account:

The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick stove must fit well into the space in terms of its height.
The foundation for the furnace must be 110÷120 mm larger than its base, and an area of suitable size must also be provided for it.
When laid upward, the chimney pipe should not collide with the floor beams or rafters of the roof structure.

Basic materials and components for laying a brick oven

In addition to bricks and mortar, other materials and elements will be required to build a stove. Their nomenclature, quantity and size will depend on the selected model of the heating structure.

So, the following cast iron components may be required for a brick stove:

1 – door of the ash pan (blower);

2 – combustion door;

3 – doors for installation on cleaning channels;

4 – chimney duct valve;

5 – burner rings installed on the hob holes;

6 – hob;

7 – grate.

In addition to cast iron, you will need to prepare some steel parts or assemblies that are included in the design of the stove. It could be:

Oven.
Hot water tank.
Metal strips of different lengths and widths.
A metal corner, most often measuring 50x50 mm.
Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm.
Steel sheet for decking in front of the firebox.
Roofing iron - sometimes required to cover the cooking chamber.

For the masonry itself, you will need materials that are selected in accordance with the masonry diagram and the list (table) usually attached to it:

Red brick.
Fireclay brick.
The components for clay mortar are sand and clay, or ready-made heat-resistant clay, sold in specialized stores.
Materials for the foundation - they can be different: crushed stone, broken brick, sand and cement, rubble stone, boards for formwork, roofing felt for waterproofing.
Asbestos sheet and cord.

Marking and arrangement of the foundation

It is impossible to begin work on laying the furnace if a reliable foundation has not been created for this structure, since the structure will turn out to be very massive.

First, there is a marking of the place where the base for the stove will be installed - the foundation. It should be taken into account that the chimney pipe, when passing through the attic floor, must pass at a distance of no less than 120÷150 mm from the wooden beams.

To accurately determine the place where the floor boards will be cut for the foundation, a plumb line is used, which is fixed to the ceiling at the required distance from the floor beam. After the plumb line stops, a mark is made on the floor at one of the corners of the stove. Also, the remaining corner parts are marked with dots, and then the resulting plan is verified with a building level and a corner. Next, you should draw on the floor the shape of the future foundation (as already mentioned, it should be wider than the stove base by at least 100 - 150 mm in each direction). Based on the resulting markings, the floor boards will be cut out so as to reach the ground.

Here it should be immediately noted that the foundation of the stove and the house should not be common. Moreover, they should not be connected. The shrinkage of the foundations of the stove and the house itself are different, and it may turn out that with a connected foundation, one building will pull another along with it.

Next, the floor boards are cut out and dismantled, and a pit is dug in the exposed soil with a depth of at least 500 mm from the surface of the earth.
The foundation can be made of rubble stone or brick. If the base is built from rubble stone, then installation of formwork in the pit is not required. It is enough to lay the dirt-free stone in layers, each of which is filled with concrete mortar. It is very important to ensure that there are no unfilled voids between the masonry stones.

The masonry above the ground continues in the formwork, made in the form of a box, the boards of which must be tightly fitted to each other. To ensure that the solution dries evenly and the liquid is not absorbed into the wood of the formwork, it is recommended to cover it from the inside with thick polyethylene, which is secured with staples on the boards.
The foundation must be 140 mm below the finished floor level.
The surface of the rubble-cement base is leveled for the next stage of work.
Next, two rows of brickwork are installed on a flat and dry surface, and after the mortar has dried, two layers of roofing material are laid on it, which acts as waterproofing.

It is also quite possible to have the foundation slab completely poured into the formwork, with the installation of a steel reinforcing structure. True, expense concrete mortar in this case it will be much higher.

Preparing bricks for masonry work

As you know, the main material for laying a furnace is red brick of normal firing. Well, the walls and bottom of the firebox are laid out from fireproof fireclay material. You can, of course, use selected red brick for the combustion chamber, but you need to take into account that its service life is much shorter than fire-resistant brick.

First of all, the purchased brick must be carefully sorted and those that have significant cracks and chips must be rejected. If used brick is used for masonry, it must be cleaned of soot and old mortar.

The prepared red brick is soaked in water for at least 12–14 hours. Fireclay only needs to be rinsed with water before use to remove dust.

The preparation process also includes splitting bricks into pieces, since when laying a furnace, not only whole bricks are needed, but also halves, ¾ - three-quarters, ¼ - quarters and even sometimes smaller fragments. To make it easier to determine the parts of the brick by size, the handle of the pick-hammer is measured and notches are made corresponding to the size of half, ¼ or ¾ of its part.

To obtain the fragmentary parts necessary for masonry, the brick is split or chipped. Hewing is carried out if it is necessary to have a brick cut at an angle.

For hewing, bricks that do not have cracks are taken. To do everything correctly, you need to take the brick with your left hand and, holding it in weight, use a pick to mark the area on its edges that needs to be cut off.

The marking is applied at an angle along the marked line. Then the corners are chipped off by hitting the sides of the brick. Hewn surfaces will turn out rough, and in order to bring them to an even, smooth state, they are rubbed in with bricks.

To split a brick into even pieces (this process is called pinning by stove makers), you need to take a high-quality brick without cracks. The pinning process is also carried out by weight.

If a brick needs to be divided in half, it is also taken in the left hand, and the part that needs to be separated is measured on it. Then, along the tongue side of the brick, a shallow groove is made along the marked line. After this, the brick is turned over with the groove down, and a sharp blow is applied to it with a hammer strike in the area of the intended line.

Brick splitting techniques - 2

If it is necessary to separate less than half of a whole brick, then a groove is made at the site of the future split on all sides of the brick. In this case, it splits with a strong blow to the furrow on one of the spoon sides. If necessary, you can break off the corner part in the same way.

If you need to split a brick not across, but lengthwise, then the marking is carried out along its side, narrow side, and the groove along the marking is made deeper, since it is much more difficult to split along the brick and can crumble.

If you need to round the corners of a brick, you will need a special tool - this could be a machine or a grinder with a stone wheel.

Preparation of masonry mortar

A very important stage of work can be called the preparation of clay mortar, which is used when laying the main mass of the furnace. You also need to know that clay mortar is not suitable for constructing a chimney or arranging a foundation. For this purpose, concrete mixtures are often used or clay mortar add several parts of cement.

The masonry furnace seam should not exceed 8 mm in thickness, otherwise cracks will appear on it, and through them oxygen can penetrate into the structure, which will reduce the efficiency of the furnace. In addition, during combustion, carbon monoxide can leak into the room, which is extremely dangerous for human health and even life. Therefore, the solution must be prepared from high-quality clay and sifted fine sand with a sand grain fraction of no more than 1 mm. The solution should be homogeneous, without lumps or foreign inclusions.

Clay solutions are divided into lean, normal and fatty. Their quality directly depends on the correctly selected clay.

Thin solutions are not plastic, are fragile and crumble heavily.
Normal mixtures have the correct proportions and consist of medium-fat clay and sifted sand. They are moderately plastic, practically do not crack after complete drying, do not shrink strongly and do not change their volume. Therefore, they will be the most suitable option for stove masonry.
Fatty solutions are plastic, but tend to crack when drying. But this mixture composition can be corrected by “thinning” it by adding sand.

The correct thickness of the clay solution is no less important than plasticity. Therefore, the consistency of the masonry mixture should resemble medium-thick dough, and when compressed between two wet bricks, it should be easily squeezed out under their weight.

Before mixing the solution, you must check the quality of the clay. The process of checking the finished solution can be carried out in three ways, but first it must be made using the method of selecting ingredients - clay and sand in proportions.

Usually several versions of the solution are prepared in small quantities. Each solution contains different proportions:

Pure clay without added sand.
Clay 90%, sand 10%.
Clay 75%, sand 25%.
Clay 25%, sand 75%.

The solutions are mixed well with the addition of water until the consistency of a thick dough that does not stick to your hands. Then you can move on to testing it.

A. From each solution option, balls with a diameter of 35÷40 mm and plates with a thickness of 15÷25 mm are made. All these products are left to dry at room temperature for 7÷9 days.

After this time, a check must be carried out. Those products that gave fewer cracks, and balls thrown from a height of 1000 mm onto the floor did not disintegrate, have the right proportions for stove masonry.

You can compress the solution, rolled into balls, between two wooden plates to a thickness of 7 mm and leave to dry at room temperature. The solution that will produce fewer cracks is selected.

B. Another testing option that does not require a long wait is the tensile test. To do this, flagella 10÷15 mm thick and 120÷170 mm long are made from solutions with different proportions. Then the flagella try to stretch. The mixture will be suitable if the rope breaks, stretching at the point of break to a thickness of 2–3 mm.

IN. The third option would be to roll the prepared solutions into a rope and roll it around a round wooden stick with a diameter of 40÷50 mm. The solution from which the rope is made, which gave fewer cracks when drying and remained intact, is perfect for masonry work.

Having chosen the optimal solution in proportions, it must be kneaded correctly.

The clay is soaked for one to two days, and then, while wet, rubbed through a sieve made of metal mesh with cells of 3÷3.5 mm.
The sand is sifted.
Next, it is measured required quantity clay and sand, according to experimentally determined proportions, and then thoroughly mixed until homogeneous.

A properly prepared solution does not lose its adhesive properties indefinitely. If it dries out, just add liquid to it and mix well again.

For laying fireclay bricks, a special solution is prepared, consisting of pure clay and fireclay sand in 1:1 proportions.

Price for masonry mixture for stoves

masonry mixture for stoves

General recommendations for laying a brick oven

After the foundation has gained the necessary strength, and the bricks, mortar, metal and cast iron parts have been prepared, you can proceed to marking the first row and the masonry itself.

Marking the first row.

On a waterproofing sheet (roofing felt), laid on the foundation with an indentation from its edge, the bricks of the first row are laid dry around the perimeter. First, corner bricks are installed, then intermediate bricks along the perimeter; a gap of 5÷6 mm must be left between them, which will be filled with mortar during the test laying. Angles are measured according to construction level and corner. To make sure that the row is laid out evenly, use a tape measure to measure its diagonals - they must have the same length.

The geometry of the first row is extremely important for the entire furnace structure, so measurements must be carried out with the highest possible accuracy. In order not to get lost when performing the control laying, the row laid out dry should be outlined with chalk.

Checking row horizontality.

Next, the row is laid out on the solution. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the first, corner brick, and a thicker layer to the second. Then, a building level is installed on the two laid bricks, which is used to press on the second brick, thereby achieving their perfect alignment horizontal plane. In the same way, 3 and 4 bricks are laid out and so on according to the scheme.

Carrying out masonry.

In order for the masonry to be even at the corners of the stove, vertical plumb cords are pulled from the outer sides, which are attached to the ceiling and floor. If the stove is being built by a master for the first time, instead of cords it is best to install formwork bars from the ceiling to the floor. They are set to the building level and securely fixed in the correct position.

At this stage, using a trowel or spatula, the solution is applied to the first laid out row in a layer of 9÷10 mm.

A corner brick is laid on top of it. Then the mortar is applied to the end side of the second brick and also leveled. The second brick is laid in the place prepared for it, pressed, and, if necessary, tapped with a hammer. The solution that appears between the rows is selected with a trowel. In this case, it is advisable to carefully clean the bricks immediately so that the mortar does not have time to set.

If you are not sure that the seams will be the same, you can use plastic or wooden calibrator slats with a thickness equal to the required thickness of the seam. Such calibration devices are placed on the finished row before installing the next one. You need to prepare enough such slats so that there are enough of them for three rows. Having laid out these rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam and transferred to the top one - and so on until the very top of the structure being built.

If it is not applied to the walls of the furnace finishing material, then the seams are carefully processed with a special tool called “joint”.

Processing seams for jointing

It is very important to take into account that the next row of stove masonry should begin only after the previous one is completely completed. No “ladders” are allowed.

The horizontality of each row is necessarily controlled by the building level.

So that the heated air, circulating through the internal channels, does not encounter obstacles in the form of protruding solution, and smoothly slides along the walls from the combustion chamber to the chimney pipe, the solution with internal walls also needs to be removed. This process can be carried out using a sponge brush, which is used to rub in the unset solution, if necessary, moistening it with water. Such grouting is carried out upon completion of the laying of every 4-5 rows or if it is necessary to install a vertical ceiling that will close the oven cavity.

If you plan to finish the oven externally, then use a plaster solution consisting of clay, lime and sand in proportions 1:1:3. For heat resistance, 0.2÷0.3 parts of crushed asbestos are added to this composition. True, existing modern sanitary standards do not encourage the use of asbestos in residential premises.

Floor installation.

There are quite a lot of different ceilings in the design of any furnace, and they all have their own characteristics, depending on the area of their arrangement.

So, when covering the door of the fuel chamber and the internal openings of the furnace, it is advisable to do this without metal parts.

If a model is selected that has an arched ceiling of the cooking chamber, then the arch is constructed using a special formwork that has a semicircular shape. This formwork is called “circling”.

The laying of arched vaults is carried out with the obligatory bandaging of the seams, which means that there is always an odd number of rows in the vault. In the lower part of the arch, the seams should be perfectly straight and have a thickness of no more than 5 mm.

The vault is laid out from the bottom to the top of the arch, first on one side of the circle, then on the second, and only after that the central final locking row is laid out.

Installation of stove cast iron and metal elements.

All metal elements of the furnace, as is known, expand when heated, so thermal gaps must be formed around them, which are created using asbestos material. In some cases, asbestos cord is used, in others, strips of the required width and length are cut from a single sheet of this material. So, the door of the combustion chamber and the oven are wrapped with an asbestos cord, and under hob strips are laid.

The metal doors are secured to the masonry joints using wire twists. On the back wall of the metal door frame there are always special “ears” into which the wire is inserted, and then its ends are twisted together.

The wire attached to the lower “ears” is embedded in the seams of the row on which the door is installed, and the upper twists are placed between the rows, one of which will be located on the same level as the top of the door frame, and the second above it.

Before fastening in the seams, the door is aligned to the building level or using a plumb line.

The blower and cleaning door does not require wrapping with asbestos cord, since it does not heat up to very high temperatures. high temperatures. The gaps between them and the brick can be sealed with clay mortar.

If a metal strip is to be used to cover the fire door, then a gasket of asbestos strip must be made between it and the frame.

The smoke valve frame is also mounted on a clay mortar, but this work must be carried out carefully so that the solution does not fall into the grooves of the frame along which the valve must move.

Drying the finished oven

Upon completion of the construction of the furnace, under no circumstances should you heat it immediately at full power, otherwise the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, you first need to dry it, which is carried out in the following order:

All doors and valves in the oven are opened, and in this state it is left for a period of 7 to 10 days, depending on the ambient air temperature. In this case, excess moisture from the mortar and the bricks themselves will evaporate naturally.

Forced drying is undesirable, but it has to be used if, say, the temperature outside is not high enough for the solution to dry out properly. To do this, place a regular 200÷300 W electric light bulb inside the combustion chamber and leave it burning for the entire drying period, which will last from 6 to 10 days.

After this time, the stove begins to be heated with a small amount of wood chips or paper, starting with 0.5 kg of fuel and adding 0.2 kg to this amount daily. This process is carried out over approximately 10 days. Well, after this you can begin to fully fire the well-dried structure.

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Heating and cooking stove "Swedish" with a stove bench

General characteristics and required materials

This subsection of the publication will present the order of laying a heating and cooking stove equipped with a stove bench. This model of the fundamental “Swedish” type was developed by engineer G. Reznik. The design of such a furnace can be called one of the most popular, since it is distinguished by a simple configuration of internal channels, relatively small dimensions and its high functionality. In addition, the “Swedish” stove, which has a compact size, has a higher efficiency compared to the Russian stove, which occupies a fairly large area of the house.

Heating and cooking stove of the Swedish type, with a warm stove bench, designed by G. Reznik

The “Swede” of this design is convenient in all its parameters. So, if you install it in a partition between two rooms, for example, a kitchen and a bedroom, then big square a heated wall will warm the living space, and a warm one can well serve as a sleeping place. The kitchen will acquire a convenient hob and drying chambers suitable for various needs, for example, for storing dried vegetables, fruits, and medicinal herbs for the winter. Moreover, drying will take place under natural conditions, at temperatures optimal for this purpose.

The dimensions of the stove, considering its functional qualities, are quite compact and amount to 765 × 1145 mm (3 × 4.5 bricks) at the base. The dimensions of the bed are 635x1785 mm (2.5x7 bricks). The total height of the structure excluding the mounted pipe is 1890 mm, so it is suitable for rooms with not very high ceilings. With these parameters, the heat transfer from the structure is 3500 W, and the stove is capable of heating rooms with a total area of up to 35 square meters.

The design provides two operating modes - “winter”, when all sections of the stove are heated, and “summer”, which allows you to use only the hob and chamber.

The fuel chamber is lined with fireclay bricks, which increases the reliability and durability of the structure.

Required for masonry following materials and metal parts:

Name of material and elements	Size in mm or other parameters	Quantity in pieces (kg)
Tempered Red Brick	M-200	866 pcs.
Fireclay fire-resistant brick	Ш-8	139 pcs.
Clay	fat	180 kg
Sand	purified	280 kg
Hob	310 x 650	1 PC.
Grate	240 x 415	1 PC.
Fire door	210 x 250	1 PC.
Cleaning door	70 x 130	5 pieces.
Blower door	140 x 250	1 PC.
Smoke damper	130 x 250	1 PC.
"Summer run" valve	130 x 250	1 PC.
Steel corner	50 x 50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel strip	50 x 5 x 250	4 things.
	50 x 5 x 360	14 pcs.
	50 x 5 x 735	1 PC.
Steel sheet	360 x 375	1 PC.
Pre-furnace sheet	500 x 700	1 PC.

In addition, you need to stock up on a sheet of asbestos and a cord made from the same material - to create thermal gaps between metal elements and brick. You will also need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 2÷3 mm - for fastening cast iron and steel parts designs.

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The process of laying a Swedish stove with a stove bench

To begin with, here are a few illustrations that will help you better understand the intricacies of the stove design:

You can move on to practical masonry. The table similarly describes each laid out row, indicating its nuances:

Illustration with order diagram	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first row is 76 bricks. The first row should be laid out perfectly horizontally, maintaining straight outer and internal corners masonry
	Second row - 73 bricks. The row is also continuous, but smaller than the previous one in size by 50 mm on each side. In the places where the blower and cleaning doors will be installed, cutouts are made along the edge of the brick, 20 mm deep, like a niche. They are needed for the convenience of subsequent installation of cast iron elements (shown by an arrow).
	Next, on the same row, cleaning doors 130x70 mm and ash doors 140x250 mm are installed. Instead of cleaning doors, some stove makers install halves of bricks, which are laid without mortar.
	The third row consists of 35 red and 6½ fireclay bricks. This row is also smaller than the previous one along the perimeter, but this time when carrying out work, you need to focus on the dimensions indicated in the order. On this row, the horizontal channel of the stove itself and the stove bench, as well as the blower (ash) chamber, is formed. Another chamber is formed in the central part of the oven, which will not be used; it is needed to retain heat for a longer time. The brick on the left side of the blower chamber from above is cut obliquely (shown by an arrow).
	The fourth row consists of 35 red and 5½ fireclay bricks. The bricks installed on the left side of the blower chamber are cut diagonally (shown by the yellow arrow). The ash door is placed on top with two steel strips measuring 50x5x360 mm (shown with a green arrow).
	Fifth row - 30 red and 16½ fireclay bricks. Cutouts are made in the bricks above the ash chamber (shown by arrows) - a seat for a grate measuring 240x415 mm.
	Continuation of the fifth row. The central chamber is laid across with four steel strips measuring 50x5x250 mm (shown by the yellow arrow). To increase the heat capacity of the furnace, this chamber can be filled with sand and stones, but it can also be left hollow. The cast iron grate is put in place (shown by the green arrow).
	Sixth row. This row will require 32 ½ red and 18 fireclay bricks. The horizontal channel will become the base for the vertical chimney. The space under the bed is divided into 7 parts. The walls of the furnace fuel chamber are formed around the grate.
	The seventh row consists of 36½ red and 11 fireclay bricks. The vertical chimney is reduced to 190x130 mm by laying it with bricks. At the same stage, the combustion chamber door 210×250 mm is installed (shown by the arrow).
	Eighth row. It is laid out in accordance with the pattern of 38 red and 12 fireclay bricks.
	The ninth row consists of 35½ red and 12½ fireclay bricks. On this row, a channel is formed between the fuel chamber and the space under the stove bench, which connects to the chimney passages of the stove bench. The brick, which will be installed between the combustion chamber and the vertical chimney, is cut on both sides in the upper part at an angle (shown by the arrow). Thus, a passage begins to form between the firebox and the remaining chimney channels of the stove. Here you need to take into account that the upper part of the combustion door and the top of the brick cut from both sides must be at the same level. If the door was installed one row higher, combustion products would have the opportunity to freely exit into the room when the door of the heating stove was opened.
	The tenth row is laid out from 36 red and 8 fireclay bricks. At this stage of work, the combustion chamber is connected to a vertical channel. Red and fireclay bricks, located on both sides above the firebox door, are cut off at an angle from above (shown by a yellow arrow), since between them, according to the lock principle, a brick will be laid, cut from below on both sides, also at an angle. Next, the resulting horizontal channel is divided into two parts - the small right and large left. Some of the bricks forming the channel and located on its left side are cut off diagonally at the top (shown by the green arrow).
	On the same row, a red brick and ½ fireclay brick (shown by arrows) are cut into the remaining locking slot above the firebox door.
	The 11th row consists of 54 red and 9 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the space under the bed is blocked with bricks. Its size increases by moving the outermost bricks outward by 30 mm; its exact parameters are shown in the order diagram. The removal of the walls of the firebox continues, the bricks in it and the smoke exhaust ducts are cut diagonally - on the firebox from above, on the ducts below (shown by yellow and green arrows, respectively).
	The 12th row is laid out from 49½ red and 16 fireclay bricks. On this row, the bed is overlapped for the second time, also with an increase in its size - the outermost bricks move outward by 30 mm. Three vertical chimney channels are formed along the rear wall of the stove. The middle and left channels are connected from below by a common space, and the right one is combined with the output channel of the couch. The bricks forming the right and middle channels are cut diagonally from the bottom (shown by yellow arrows). A groove is cut out in the bricks framing the combustion chamber - a seat for mounting the hob (green arrows). Moreover, the dimensions of each side seat should be 5 mm larger than the plate itself.
	A hob 310×650 mm is mounted on the same row (shown by an arrow).
	The 13th row consists of 49 red and 7 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The bed is covered with a third layer of brick, and its dimensions return to their original size. To do this, the bricks of this row are shifted inward. In the diagram you can clearly see the emerging vertical channels - the main one located on the left side of the hob and three located along the rear wall.
	The 14th row is laid out from 16 red and 4 fireclay bricks. Only the stove is being built from this row, since the laying of the stove bench is already completely finished. Two halves of bricks are placed in the back wall of the furnace, which should protrude 25 mm beyond the masonry (shown by arrows). They are needed so that they can be removed to clean the channels.
	The 15th row consists of 14½ and 3 fireclay bricks. When laying it out, the same brick halves are installed above the brick halves installed below (shown by arrows).
	The 16th row is laid out in accordance with the diagram, and consists of 15 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 17th row is also produced according to the presented scheme, from 14½ red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	The 18th row consists of 14 red and 2½ fireclay bricks. A passage is made in the left wall of the cooking chamber (shown by an arrow), where the ventilation door of the cooking chamber will be installed, which is opened during cooking.
	18th row. Next, on the same row, a 70x130 mm door is installed in the left ventilation passage (shown by the yellow arrow). Then, a steel strip 50x5x735 (green arrow) is laid on the walls of the cooking chamber to cover it, and a corner 50x50x5x735 mm (blue arrow) is placed on their edge.
	The 19th row consists of 16 ½ red and 3 fireclay bricks. At this stage, the front part of the cooking chamber is covered with brick. The brick is laid on a steel strip and angle.
	Further, on the same row, the cooking chamber is completely covered with a sheet of roofing iron 360×375 mm (shown by a yellow arrow), on top of which five steel strips 50×5×360 mm (green arrows) are laid. The metal sheet gives the ceiling of the cooking chamber a cultivated appearance.
	The 20th row consists of 20½ red and 5 fireclay bricks. They completely cover the cooking chamber, and on the main chimney channel a seat is cut out of the bricks (shown by an arrow) for installing a “summer” valve.
	Next, on the same row, the 130x250 mm valve itself is installed on the seat (shown by the arrow).
	Row 21, its laying involves the use of 21 red and 5 fireclay bricks. A row is laid out according to the diagram. The bricks framing the left vertical channel from the side of the main smoke exhaust channel in the upper part are cut obliquely (shown by the yellow arrow). The brick laid between the middle and right vertical channels is cut diagonally on both sides (green arrow).
	The 22nd row consists of 17 red bricks. When laying out this row, the left and main, as well as the middle and right channels are combined. The formation of two drying chambers is underway. In the rear wall of the large drying chamber and the rear wall of the combined main and left channels, half a brick is installed, which can be removed if necessary to clean the channels (shown by arrows).
	The 23rd row consists of 16½ red bricks. To cover the area of the left vertical channel, three steel strips 50x5x360 mm are laid above it (shown by arrows).
	The 24th row is laid out from 20 ½ red bricks. At this stage, the left vertical channel is blocked with bricks, leaving only a hole measuring 130x260 mm for the main chimney channel. The bricks that form the back wall of the main chimney duct are cut diagonally from below (shown by the yellow arrow). Two steel strips 50x5x360 mm (green arrows) are laid on the front part of the drying chamber.
	The 25th row consists of 30 red bricks. At this stage, the right and middle vertical channels are overlapped, as well as the front part of the large and entire small chamber. The open space of the large drying chamber is then covered with two 50x5x360 mm steel strips (shown by arrows). The bricks in the masonry of the side and front sides of the stove are moved forward by 30 mm. The drawing shows the dimensions that should result from this offset.
	The 26th row is laid out from 31½ red bricks. At this stage, the entire top of the stove is completely covered, except for the hole for the main smoke exhaust duct. This row continues the expansion of the previous one, that is, it also has the front and parts of the side sides protruding outward by another 30 mm each. All dimensions of the protrusions are indicated on the order drawing.
	The 27th row consists of 26 red bricks. At this stage, the size of the rectangular plane returns to its original size, that is, the bricks are shifted from the edge, according to the dimensions indicated on the diagram.
	The 28th row is laid out from 5 red bricks, and is the base of the mounted pipe. Cutouts are made from the inner edges of the bricks (shown with a yellow arrow) for a seat for a 130x250 mm chimney damper. After this, the valve itself is installed (green arrow).
	The 29th row also consists of 5 red bricks, and is the second row of the mounted pipe. Next comes the further laying of the chimney.

If you listen to all the recommendations and carefully follow the ordering diagram, this stove, which has a fairly simple design of channels and sections, can be built even by a novice stove maker. The main thing in this work is to take your time and accurately carry out the configuration of each of the rows.

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvPQ_smL5PxxY54pLIZXv0g

I built my first stove at my dacha in 1996. Before this I had no idea how this was done. But I like to do everything with my own hands and therefore this kind of work did not really frighten me. A long time ago, while still in school, I received the specialty of a draftsman and detailer. I knew how to read drawings, including the order of the stoves, and based on these drawings I could imagine how it would all look in volume.

And so I got down to business. What I got works to this day, and there hasn’t been a single major repair. It was a small-sized heating and cooking stove with a drying chamber by Yu. Proskurin, published in the popular science series “Do it yourself” for 1989. The choice of this stove turned out to be so successful that, despite all the gross mistakes I made during construction, it turned out to be functional.

After that, I had a big break in the furnace business. I didn’t consider myself a stove maker, and by the way, I still don’t. Everything was quiet and calm until one of my friends started building a stove for himself. Moreover, he wanted to repeat what I did for myself, taking into account all my mistakes. In short, he got to work, and I acted as a consultant for him. It turned out that he knows how to work with the 3D modeling program - SolidWorks. When I saw the results of his work, I wanted to study the same thing.

Subsequently, many of the things that I did for myself, or ordered on the side, I initially tried to work on in this program. In the end, my brother asked me to design a stove for his dacha. When the project was ready, we decided to do it ourselves. Meanwhile, friends from neighboring areas were deciding where the smoke would come from this stove. Smoke came out of the chimney, and with such good draft that applications for the same stove and others like it immediately began pouring in.

As a result, I started not building stoves, but preparing their projects. Thank God, there are enough descriptions and procedures on the Internet to Various types stoves and fireplaces. The main drawback of these publications is that most of them contain a lot of errors. There are, of course, good projects, but they are paid, and this is not suitable for everyone.

So, when I was sent on vacation, I had a need to apply my strength and abilities somewhere. And since going somewhere or going to work didn’t really make me smile, I remembered that there is the Internet. And here I am, asking for love and favor.

STOVES AND FIREPLACES:

● Small-sized heating stove 2x3 bricks
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197337

This oven is very simple in design. Its size is 2 by 3 bricks at the base. Despite the apparent simplicity of the design, it has quite good technical characteristics. With its generally small size, the stove allows you to heat a room of up to 25 sq.m.

● Heating and cooking stove "Shvedka"
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197315

The Shvedka stove is one of the most common in its design. In terms of its dimensions, it is quite compact, but at the same time it can heat a room up to 30 sq.m.

● Small-sized heating and cooking stove with fireplace by V. Filipieva
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197304

The stove has two operating modes - summer and winter. Simultaneous firing of the stove and fireplace is possible.

● Oven with drying chamber by Yu. Proskurina
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197294

The oven with a drying chamber designed by Yu. Proskurin is a double-turn, single-burner version of a heating and cooking oven. It allows you to heat a garden house with an area of up to 16 sq.m. In addition, the oven is equipped with a small drying chamber in which you can dry fruits, vegetables, as well as various small items, including shoes.

● Heating stove 51x140 cm V. Bykova
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197284

The oven has dimensions of 51x140x215 cm. The heat output of the oven is 2400 kcal/hour. The stove belongs to the family of so-called “simples” and is the largest of them.

● Shvedka stove with three firing modes
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197272

Lighting the stove in “summer” mode does not present any difficulties, since during lighting the smoke enters directly into the channel connected to the chimney. During the “autumn” operating mode, approximately 60% of the furnace channels are used. When switching to “winter” mode, all furnace channels are fully engaged and the output from it is maximum.

● “Swedish” stove with fireplace designed by A.I. Ryazankina
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197249

This design is a heating and cooking stove of the Shvedka type, combined with a fireplace into a single whole. The stove is designed to use wood as fuel.

● Compact stove with fireplace
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197233

When creating the project, the author managed to combine a heating and cooking stove with a fireplace, and of a fairly small-sized, aesthetic design. There are three modes for heating the stove, an exhaust from the cooking chamber and a convection heating system, both for the stove itself and for the fireplace.

● Heating stove 51x89 cm V. Bykova
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197223

The heating stove 51x89 cm by V. Bykov is the third of the family of “simples”. It refers to moderately heated stoves with half-brick walls. Such stoves, as a rule, slowly gain heat during combustion, but retain it for a long time after it ends.

● Double-bell heating and cooking stove
http://vk.com/video-49730221_170197210

The two-bell heating and cooking stove has dimensions at the base of 114x89 cm. Its height is 2 m 24 cm. Heat transfer is at least 4000 kcal/hour.

● Heating stove 1880x640 mm Ya.G. Porfiryeva

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