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Make an oil stove. Economical furnace for working with your own hands. Increasing the efficiency of room heating

Furnace operating on waste oil or fuel oil - ideal option for heating garages, greenhouses or animal housing. Its design is simple and can be done in just a few hours. In order to make a mining furnace with your own hands, you can use not only metal sheets, but also old pipes suitable diameter, barrels or used gas cylinders.

Scheme of a furnace operating during mining

The fuel in such a furnace is the vapors released when waste oil boils. It consists of two cameras. Oil is poured into the first (lower) container through a special hole. When ignited (lit paper or rags soaked in gasoline are pushed into the same hole), the heated vapors rise along the perforated pipe into the second (upper) chamber, where they burn completely.

The exhaust furnace consists of two chambers connected by a perforated pipe

Ignition of the furnace

To prevent heated air from escaping too quickly into the pipe, in the upper chamber provided partition.

A partition is made in the upper afterburning chamber to retain gases

Important! To ensure the release of carcinogenic products released during waste combustion, the room in which such a potbelly stove is installed must be equipped with a reliable ventilation system.

Furnace assembly

1. Oven dimensions may be arbitrary. However, its power directly depends on the volume of the oil chamber (it can range from 10 to 30 liters). Using a standard potbelly stove measuring 750×350×500 mm, it is quite possible to heat a room measuring 120 cubic meters. m.

2. You can use metal to make the lower chamber 4 mm. The thickness of the metal for the upper chamber, which heats up more, 6 mm.

3. Upper second chamber usually the same size as the bottom one or maybe a little larger. You should not make it too voluminous - in a spacious chamber the heated gas will cool too quickly.

Advice. To make cleaning the oil container easier, the first chamber can be made retractable.

4. For normal operation of the device, air supply to both chambers is required. For this purpose, the first of them provides for regulatory damper, which remains open during ignition and closes immediately after boiling of the waste.

5. The oil fill hole can also be used as an air regulator. In this case, a valve is provided on it.

The oil filling hole can also serve as an air supply regulator

Important! Since the oil chamber requires regular cleaning, it is made collapsible.

The lower chamber must be collapsible

6. Air is supplied to the second chamber through perforation in the pipe. Standard length such a pipe is 35-65 cm, diameter from 100 mm. Holes measuring 12-16 mm in it are located every 7-10 cm. Instead of a pipe, you can also use a small gas cylinder.

Scheme of the furnace in production

7. To ensure sufficient circulation of heated air, the stove is installed on legs. Since the floors are utility rooms most often uneven, it is better to provide for adjusting the length of each leg. To do this, they are bolted to the lower chamber.

8. The weight of this stove is small (from 30 kg), so in order to prevent it from tipping over, it is better to make holes in the lower part of the stand for screwing them to the floor.

9. Instead of legs, you can also use them as a stand. bricks. But, since such a potbelly stove is a fire-hazardous device, it should be securely fastened.

Variations of furnaces during mining

1. There are many options for making such potbelly stoves. Both their shape (it can be anything) and the location of its individual parts can change.

The design of the furnace can be any

2. A more advanced model is the oven with expansion tank for waste oil. The fuel supply in it is adjusted using a tap. With this option, the volume of the oil chamber may be smaller.

Furnace with an additional tank for feeding waste

Another option for a potbelly stove with a tank for adding oil

3. For heating large rooms, you can use forced air heating using fan. Such an improvement will not only speed up the supply of heat to the room, but will also protect the metal from excessive overheating and burnout.

4. With internal airflow In the upper chamber, it is possible to increase the efficiency of the furnace by increasing the speed and volume of gas combustion. Moreover, such a design will smoke much less. To increase air injection use duct fan , which is mounted next to the stove and connected to it using a 100 mm duct with a damper to regulate the air flow. To avoid reverse draft, it is mounted after the fan. check valve.

5. In order for the furnace to operate in automatic mode, it can be equipped with drip oil supply.

Oil drip furnace

6. Since such a design is very economical, and its efficiency is quite high (up to 75%), the exhaust furnace can be used for heating greenhouses or premises for keeping animals. For uniform heating of the premises, it is possible to provide in it water "shirt" volume 100-120 l. To do this, the stove or chimney is surrounded by a second wall filled with water. In this case, two connections are made in the “jacket”: one communicates with the water supply, and the second with the heating radiators.

Stove with a water “jacket” on the chimney

The water “jacket” in such a potbelly stove is a pipe that goes around the stove

Chimney device

Since for such a stove it is important to have a powerful and stable draft, the chimney must have sufficient height - from 4 m(distance from the oven surface). With good traction, the likelihood of poisoning with carcinogenic products of fuel combustion is also reduced, which is also important.

To install a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is used. Since the chimney in such devices becomes clogged with soot very quickly, bends and tilts are not allowed in it– the pipe must be positioned strictly vertically.

Operation of the furnace during mining

A properly assembled stove should not smoke or smoke. If this happens, then there is a serious flaw in its design. It can even start smoking if the chimney is clogged: it will have to be cleaned much more often than the chimneys of conventional stoves.

To remove stuck carbon deposits, it is better to first tap the pipe, and only then clean it of soot residues. IN regular washing(ideally once a week) you also need a container for oil.

Advice. You can simplify cleaning the chimney if you make it collapsible.

Cleaning the lower chamber

Another disadvantage of such a stove is its increased fire hazard. If hot oil splashes out (and this can easily happen if the pipe is heavily clogged with soot or water gets into the oil container), surrounding objects can easily ignite. Therefore, when operating the stove, the following rules should be observed:

The permissible distance between the wall and the stove is 0.5 m;

This type of stove is installed only on concrete base or a metal sheet of suitable size;

Wooden walls and walls sheathed with any flammable material are also sheathed with metal; such metal sheets will not only protect the wall cladding from fire, but will also serve as heat reflectors;

To prevent the oil from splashing out when heated, fill the chamber only two-thirds with it;

It is prohibited to add fuel when the stove is burning intensely;

Do not store flammable substances or objects in the stoker.

Important! It is prohibited to heat such a stove with gasoline, diesel fuel or any other flammable substance. Oils containing impurities of such substances should not be used.

Sheathing the walls with metal significantly increases the efficiency of the furnace

Video: do-it-yourself oven testing

The working furnace already took its place in the heating equipment market in the late 60s, when garage cooperatives began to form and the need for cheap heating arose technical premises. Then the craftsmen came up with a scheme for using waste oil as fuel. But even today, the issue of making a furnace with your own hands using drawings remains relevant.

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Pros and cons of units

If the model is designed correctly, the device will not only heat the room, but will also be able to supply the owner with warm water for washing hands, making tea, and other things. In garages or special premises there is not always free space for storing firewood or other solid fuel, which is why craftsmen give preference to devices for processing.

Used oil can now be obtained almost free of charge, since it often needs to be disposed of after use. If it is impossible to find it for free from friends or neighbors, service stations are always ready to sell any amount of waste for a small fee.

The heat output of the device is quite large and almost equal to electric heaters. In one hour of operation it can use from 0.5 to 2 liters of material. This heating method has many advantages, but there are also many disadvantages.

The advantages of the furnace during mining can be called the following factors:

• they are ideal for heating indoor spaces, not only of technical type, but also for greenhouses, rooms where birds or other pets live;
• if the stove is properly equipped and designed, it will not smoke or produce a lot of burning;
• such a device is easy to operate;
• Due to the fact that the waste is not incinerated, but burns, then when used correctly and following safety rules, it fully meets all required standards.

In addition to the visible advantages, we can also highlight some disadvantages:

• You cannot use oil with various additives and impurities in the device, as this can be explosive and will clog the injectors;
• the chimney and stove often need cleaning;
• The device makes a lot of noise when operating.

Do-it-yourself baking oven!



You can make such a device yourself. But there are other options - for example, a pyrolysis furnace using waste oil or a furnace using turbo burners. Their operating principle is the same.

In this case, in the lower (vacuum) chamber of the device, due to the lack of oxygen access, the waste heats up, burns and releases steam, which passes into another chamber. This is where the combustion process occurs, since there is already enough oxygen there. The convenience of using this option is that you can regulate the amount of oxygen supplied to the pyrolysis chamber, respectively, reduce or increase the intensity of the combustion process.




The disadvantages include rapid contamination of the chambers and chimney with combustion products.

Besides, temperature regime cannot be maintained automatically, so the process must be constantly monitored. Although you can reduce or increase the access of oxygen, and thereby regulate the air temperature in the room. But it won’t be possible to set it exactly.

For self-made a lot of available materials are used. These include gas, oxygen cylinders or ordinary barrels. They can be of different diameters. Metal pipes, sheets and more are also used. The design itself is based on blowing or a drip system.

Do-it-yourself furnace



Using a gas cylinder

Gas cylinders are an excellent base material. The shape of these products is already the same as needed for the production of a stove for testing according to the scheme. In addition, the thickness of the metal allows the unit to be used for many years.

A device made from such a cylinder can provide heating for a room of 70-80 square meters. If the design is modified and the water circuit is completed, the system will be a good analogue to a conventional one. gas heating. The downside is that such a homemade device can only be used for heating technical premises. The device is not suitable for apartment heating or a private home, as it produces too much noise and unpleasant odors.

Such a furnace does not require the installation of a turbo burner for forced air supply, and the waste flows into it by gravity.



Required materials

As with any other device, to make a heater with your own hands using waste oil, you need to prepare all the tools.

For self-production you will need the following materials:



You will also need a standard set of tools, which is available in almost any workshop. These include welding, grinder, drill, grinder, building level and tape measure, and other plumbing tools.

Step by step guide

First, you need to prepare the gas cylinder itself for use. You need to release the remaining gas from it and get rid of the specific smell.

For this purpose, the following actions:

1. 1. The container is cleaned of accumulated condensate, then the container is washed with water in several stages. The whole process should take place only on the street.
2. 2. Then it is buried halfway into the ground for stability. You can use any methods for these purposes, for example, installing it in a narrow tray.
3. 3. The container is filled completely with water.
4. 4. Its top is marked to make an even cut.
5. 5. Then, according to the marks, the upper part is cut. Water will start flowing from the hole. You need to wait until the water has completely drained and only then continue working.

Subsequently, the cut top will serve as a lid to the fuel container, and the bottom will directly heat the room. Then the liquid from the cylinder is completely drained.

The device must be raised above the floor during operation. To do this, you need to weld legs about 20 cm high to it. When the unit is already “on its feet,” you can make holes for the chimney. Such work is performed 70 cm from the top of the structure, and the hole itself should be round shape, although this is not of fundamental importance. The main thing is that it meets the parameters of a pre-prepared chimney pipe, which is subsequently welded into the hole.

The weld seam must be tight and smooth. After this, the vertical part is welded to the horizontal part of the chimney. Its length is about 4 meters, and it will go outside. The vertical and horizontal parts are connected using an elbow. A hole is cut out from the bottom of the cylinder, which will serve as a blower. It closes with a door and thus it will be possible to regulate the air supply to the system.

Next you should make a container for storing fuel. Typically, a pipe with a diameter of 14 cm and a height of 7-10 cm is used for this. You need to cut out the lid and immediately make two holes in it. They are performed according to the following rules:

1. 1. The first is done exactly in the center of the device with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a pipe of the same diameter is welded to it.
2. 2. The second is closer to the edge of the cover with a diameter of 7 cm. This hole will serve for filling the waste and adjusting the fuel supply.

Next you need to take metal pipe with a diameter equal to the central hole of the lid of the container for filling fuel, to which a round plate (plug) with a width equal to the diameter of the cylinder itself is welded on the upper side. The length of this pipe corresponds to the length of the same cylinder minus the length of the fuel container. The second end (bottom) of the pipe in question is welded to the central hole of the firebox (container).

New furnace using a gas cylinder.

Before this, holes must be drilled around the entire perimeter of the pipe. Next, the resulting structure should be installed inside the cylinder itself.

Now you can carry out the first tests of the device. This process is best done outside, as it can be explosive. If the test was successful, then you can bring it into the room and connect the chimney.

If you add a water heating circuit to the device, it will be able to heat fairly large rooms. A unit without such a device has one significant drawback: It will be very hot near the stove, and cold in the corner of the room. The water circuit effectively solves these problems.

Sheet metal construction

The use of metal sheets is a more common option for such devices. You can make an exhaust furnace from square pipe, but this option is not so popular.




Sheet metal model is popular for a number of reasons:

• it is compact;
• weighs no more than 30 kg;
• available hob, on which you can not only boil water, but also use it for cooking.

It is worth noting that such models exist in different configurations, weights and dimensions, but they all work on the same principle and with the same functionality.

If we talk about everyone necessary tools, then the list is the same as for making a classic stove from a cylinder. The materials you will need are steel sheets different sizes and thickness. After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, you can begin manufacturing and installation.

Security measures

When operating the furnace during mining, it is necessary to observe safe operating conditions. If you neglect this, the consequences can be catastrophic, since the stove has a fairly open fire.

The following basic precautions can be noted:



Thus, you can make your own stove of any size during testing without any problems. It will bring a lot of benefits to its owner.

There is probably no person who would not try to save on heating fuel. This is possible if you use heating stoves on used oil. They can be used with any oil that can burn: transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery and vegetable. As a result, there will be no problems with the stove. Below we will talk about how to build a homemade waste oil stove using the cheapest available materials.

How homemade oil furnaces work

If you burn any used oil, it will smoke strongly and smell unpleasant. In this regard, direct combustion is not used. First, the volatile elements are evaporated and then burned. This approach forms the basis for the operation of a furnace of this design.

There are oil furnaces with two combustion chambers. The lower chamber is designed to heat the fuel and then evaporate it. Combustible vapors are directed upward, saturated with oxygen as they pass through a pipe with holes. Once in the upper part of the pipe, the mixture ignites, and its combustion occurs in the second chamber. This releases more heat with less smoke.

The second method of splitting heavy fuel into easily flammable components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. To obtain the required evaporation efficiency, a metal bowl is mounted in the lower chamber. After it heats up, the waste oil evaporates.

In order for the combustion process to be extremely efficient, oil must be supplied to the lower chamber in small portions, in a thin stream or by the drip method. This technology is called drip feed (more details: " "). Such furnaces have several design options, some of which we will describe below.

Pros and cons of such ovens

The main advantage of oil furnaces is that they can use waste oil as fuel that would have been recycled. At the right technology During the manufacture of the furnace, after oil combustion, virtually no harmful elements are released into the atmosphere.

Additionally, the following advantages can be noted:

• simplicity of design;
• high efficiency;
• minimum costs for equipment and fuel;
• possibility of using oils of any origin;
• oil may contain up to 10% impurities.

However, there are also significant negative qualities. Firstly, if you do not follow the technology, the fuel will ignite partially. As a result, harmful fumes can accumulate indoors, which can have dangerous consequences for humans. Therefore, it is mandatory to equip a room with an oil boiler with a ventilation system.

It is worth highlighting the following additional disadvantages:

• to obtain sufficient draft, the chimney must be at least 500 cm in height;
• the roof and chimney should be serviced every day;
• complex ignition: first you need to heat the bowl, and only then supply fuel;
• difficulty in manufacturing a boiler with the ability to heat water.

Due to the features described above, such stoves are practically not used for heating residential buildings.

Scope of application

Waste oil heating furnaces simple designs aimed at heating the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or air heaters. They are capable of drying out the air, so they are practically not used for heating residential premises. Their main purpose is to heat technical premises, such as car washes, service stations, garages, workshops, as well as warehouses where there are no flammable substances.

If the stove is modified by installing a coil for heating water, or a water jacket is built, then it can already be used as a water heating unit.

Since you are interested in the question of how to make an oil stove with your own hands, below we provide detailed instructions for this process.

Do-it-yourself waste oil stove from a pipe

The easiest way to make a furnace body is from a gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe or barrel with thick walls (read: “How to make an exhaust furnace from a gas cylinder - theory and practice”). Such a unit will be able to produce a maximum of 15 kW of heat. It will not be possible to exceed this threshold, since due to violation thermal regime the boiler will begin to smoke, and this is quite dangerous.

First we need to create a body - this is done in the following sequence:

1. We take a pipe with a cross-section of 21 cm, a wall thickness of 1 cm and a height of 78 cm.
2. To make the bottom, we take sheet steel with a thickness of more than 0.5 cm. After cutting out the bottom with a diameter of 21.9 cm, we weld it on one side.
3. Next, legs are welded to the bottom, which can be made from bolts.
4. Now you need to make a viewing window, which is located at a distance of 8 cm from the bottom. It is necessary to monitor the combustion of the bowl at the start. The size of the window is determined based on personal preference. The door is made from a cut piece of pipe to which a thin collar is welded. To ensure that the door closes hermetically, an asbestos cord is laid around its perimeter.

1. A chimney pipe with a cross-section of 10.8 cm and walls 0.4 cm thick is welded with opposite side body, 7-10 cm from the top.

Making the lid:

1. Take a piece of metal 0.5 cm thick and cut out a circle with a diameter of 22.8 cm from it.
2. We weld a bead of 3 mm metal 4 cm high along the edge of the circle.
3. In the center of the lid we make a hole with a cross-section of 8.9 cm, and on the side we cut a hole with a diameter of 1.8 cm. The second hole is necessary to obtain an additional viewing window. It requires a lid, which is also a safety valve.

Now, for a pressurized exhaust furnace, it is necessary to make a pipe for transporting air and fuel:

1. You will need a pipe with a cross-section of 8.9 cm, a wall thickness of 0.3 cm and a length of 76 cm.
2. We drill 9 holes around the circumference, with a distance of 5 cm from the edge, and their diameter should be 0.5 cm.
3. Having stepped back 5 cm, we make two more rows, 8 pieces each, of holes with a cross-section of 0.42 mm.
4. After another 5 cm, 9 holes are drilled in the fourth row with a cross section of 0.3 cm.
5. On the same side, 9 slits are made along the edge, 0.16 cm thick and 3 cm high. To do this, you can use a grinder.
6. From the opposite end of the pipe, moving 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge, make a hole with a cross-section of 1 cm.
7. We insert the fuel supply pipe into the prepared hole. The thickness of its wall should be 0.1 cm, and the cross-section should be 1 cm. It should be at the same level as the air supply pipe. Its bend and length are determined by the location of the fuel container.
8. The air and fuel supply pipe is welded to the cover. It must be positioned in such a way that there is 12 cm left from it to the base of the body.

It's time for the supercharged stove to make a bowl for fuel:

1. First, take a pipe with a cross-section of 13.3 cm and a wall thickness of 0.4 cm, cut a piece 3 cm long.
2. Now we cut out a circle with a diameter of 21.9 cm from 2 mm sheet steel.
3. By welding it to a piece of pipe, we get a bowl into which we will supply fuel.

Let's start assembling a garage stove for testing:

1. We retreat 7 cm from the bottom of the body and mount the bowl inside it.
2. We mount the cover together with the fuel supply device.
3. We install the chimney on the smoke pipe. The chimney must be positioned strictly vertically; even slight slopes are prohibited. The part of the pipe that remains indoors does not need to be insulated, but the part that goes outside is better insulated.

After the oil nozzle for the stove and the oil block are installed, testing proceeds. First, place a certain amount of paper in the bowl, add flammable liquid and set it on fire. The oil supply begins after the paper has almost burned out.

Taking into account fuel consumption of 1-1.5 liters per hour, it will be possible to heat up to 150 square meters of space.

Homemade mini oven in production

It’s quite easy to build a mini-furnace for mining with your own hands. Such stoves are small in size and weigh only 10 kg, while they consume about 1.5 liters of fuel per hour and produce 5-6 kW of heat. If the power increases above these values, the oven may explode. This is an indispensable mini-stove for the garage (read: ""). It will make it possible to quickly warm up the room in severe frosts. It is not only compact, but also very economical, which is why it is also called a garage.

The fuel container of this stove has a bottom and top in the form of a standard 50 liter gas cylinder. As a result, we have very reliable designs. The reservoir can be made from another similar container with similar dimensions: diameter 20-40 cm with a height of about 35 cm.

In addition to the fuel tank, you will need to build a pipe with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm to mix the fuel with air. Cones can be welded from structural steel with a thickness of 4 mm or more.

The dimensions of the furnace available in the drawing can be edited in one direction or another, but no more than 2 cm. Particular attention should be paid to welding the seams in the funnels.

Length chimney should not exceed 350 cm, otherwise, due to excessive draft, fuel will begin to flow into the pipe, which will increase fuel consumption and worsen heat transfer.

Miracle oven in progress

This type of stove is quite popular for installation in country houses and garages. It has a small, convenient stove equipped with round or square combustion zones. The design of the furnace is so successful that there is even industrial options its execution. On sale you can find such a stove called Ritsa.

Factory supercharged units

There are not only hand-made supercharged furnaces, but also those that are manufactured at enterprises. There are imported and Russian options. Imported boilers operate on liquid fuel. Thanks to the supercharging principle, the oil in them is sprayed into tiny droplets, which are ignited after connecting with air. Imported stoves operate on the same principle, but they are equipped with a special burner in which the fuel is first heated and then atomized.

In Russian stoves, the first principle is most often used, in which fuel is supplied to a hot bowl, which later, turning into gas, combines with air and is ignited.

Devices with the following names have this principle of operation:

• Gecko. Manufactured in Vladivostok. They come with a capacity of 15, 30, 50 and 100 kW/hour. Such stoves can heat water, so they can be built into water heating systems.
• Typhoon. Such stoves are sold by the Belamos company. They are designed to heat the air. Two models are proposed - Typhoon TM 15 and TGM 300, which are capable of delivering 20-30 kW/hour.
• Herringbone-Turbo. You can purchase a stove with a power of 15 and 30 kW. They are also designed to heat the air, but there is the possibility of making a water jacket.
• Teplamos. They come with a power from 5 to 50 kW/hour. They are heat guns. To start them, they first heat up the plasma bowl using electricity, and after reaching a certain temperature they proceed to supplying fuel and air to the combustion area.

Drawings and diagrams

A huge number of different drawings have been developed for the construction of oil furnaces. By looking at at least a few of them in more detail, you can gain an understanding of their design so you can create a safe and efficient waste furnace yourself.

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The waste (used motor oil) furnace is an actively discussed topic, but not new. Do-it-yourself free heating in the Russian Federation and the CIS has a fairly long history. Now we are witnessing its rebirth.

How was she born?

Nikita Sergeevich Khrushchev, like the entire USSR, is very ambiguous, and not only in the geopolitical sense. Under him, it became possible for ordinary citizens to acquire personal vehicles, garage cooperatives were created, and summer cottage plots were distributed with might and main. Intensively mechanized agriculture. And then, in the 60s, the first shoots of environmental thinking emerged.

Garages and country houses needed to be heated. Fuel (in today's terms - energy) cost a penny - literally, a liter of 66 gasoline was 2 kopecks, and a liter of 76 gasoline was 7 kopecks. – but even pennies had to be saved, salaries were small. And for leaking work they were fined, and a lot, up to a third of the salary at a time. And it was expensive to transport coal to the dacha, but bottled gas was completely exotic. For unauthorized cutting down of forests for firewood one could end up in prison quite in the Soviet way - without unnecessary conversations and long proceedings. As a result, a waste oil furnace appeared.

Craftsmen didn’t have to rack their brains for a long time over the principle of operation - the most common gas in dachas and private homes was then kerosene gas. The kerosene that evaporated in it was burned in a special chamber, unlike a kerosene stove or a blowtorch, where already highly heated fuel vapors burn. Therefore, kerogen gas was relatively safe to use, and a violation of the combustion regime was signaled by stench and soot long before it developed into an accident. The exhaust furnace works on the same principle; you just had to figure out how to completely burn the highly contaminated viscous fuel using simple home methods.

Kerogas “Leningrad” with external chamber

The second ancestors of the oil stove were gas generator units, which were widely used during the war, when high-quality fuel was sent to the front. They were very familiar to adults in the 60s, so general scheme the operation of the stove was clearly visible:

• The initial small reserve of energy from the chemically lazy fuel is used to decompose it into lighter and more active fractions, as in a gas generator.
• What happens is to burn it in 2 or 3 stages, as in kerosene gas.

Ecological signs of our days

Today's furnaces in production do not repeat the designs of those days, except for which we'll talk separately. And there are good reasons for this.

In the 60s, combustion to carbon dioxide and water vapor was considered absolutely clean and safe. Nowadays, both of them, alas, are greenhouse gases, the effect of which is already quite noticeable in one’s own skin in the literal sense. It is impossible to burn even deeper, but the efficiency of the furnace becomes especially important.

There were no synthetic motor oils or sophisticated additives for them back then. They allow you to reduce the liter fuel consumption of internal combustion engines by half or more compared to what was then, but with incomplete combustion they produce carcinogens, toxins, mutagens and God knows what else. And people then were generally healthier and more resilient. Again, nothing can be done - in just over half a century, the world's population has increased 2.5 times and continues to grow. In relation to the stove, you need to burn it 100% and no less.

Finally, the engine oil of that time - a natural rectified petroleum product made from saturated hydrocarbons - could not develop a very high temperature during combustion. Therefore, very harmful and dangerous nitrogen oxides in the stoves of that time were formed only by individual molecules. And the current simple stove can emit them in quantities that are noticeable for health. So it’s worth taking a closer look at nitrogen oxides.

Nitrogen oxides

All nitrogen oxides are dangerous to humans. In medicine, the easiest of them is used for anesthesia - nitrous oxide, laughing gas, but strictly according to the dosage under the supervision of an anesthesiologist. The more nitrogen combines with oxygen, the more dangerous the result. The oxidation tanks of combat missiles are filled with nitrogen tetroxide N2O4 - the “sister” of fuel, heptyl (unsymmetrical dimethylhydrazine), which is worthy of causticity and toxicity, which it oxidizes. The hellish contents of modern machines of mass destruction are hidden not only in warheads.

How can an oxide oxidize? The fact is that nitrogen oxides are endothermic compounds; their formation requires energy; nitrogen and oxygen “don’t like” each other; the difference in their electrochemical potentials and the quantum properties of the electron shells do not allow them to bond strongly. When interacting with compounds that have reducing properties (easily combining with oxygen, halogens and their relatives according to the periodic table), nitrogen oxides just as easily release oxygen, which is oxidation with the release of energy, i.e. combustion. In relation to rockets, a fuel with a heavy molecular weight and a heavy oxidizer produces a large exhaust mass and strong jet thrust.

As for stoves, here you need to know the following:

1. At temperatures above 900 degrees, nitrogen oxides are formed in noticeable quantities.
2. If there is excess oxygen in the gas-air mixture, then at high temperatures it “intercepts” fuel particles, and nitrogen oxides travel further along the smoke tract.
3. At approximately 600 degrees, the oxidative activity of nitrogen oxides becomes higher than that of oxygen, and they begin to oxidize unburned fuel particles; the result is nitrogen that is completely harmless in every sense, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
4. If the temperature drops below 400 degrees, then nitrogen oxides fall into the second “stability hole” of their phase diagram; They can no longer oxidize heavy organic matter (oxygen either) and go out with the flue gases.

Fuel price

Engine oil is not drained every day, and it needs to be heated regularly in winter. Donations from well-wishers cannot be regular. If I have to buy more fuel for the stove, how much will it cost?

The selling price of used oil in the Russian Federation ranges from 5 to 14 rubles/l. self-pickup, it’s about 5 more rubles/km for a car with a trailer. And it’s not at all easy to buy: waste is considered hazardous waste, and a processing license is required. Moreover, wholesale buyers sell reluctantly and not at bucket-canister standards. They process the oil into dark heating oil. Profitability is high, and who will give away valuable raw materials cheaply?

But there is an interesting twist here. Enterprises often buy fresh engine oil from the general flow of fuels and lubricants, because strict accounting of its purchases is not required. The work must be taken into account, but then who will know how much it was? There is a point in engaging in such machinations - there is less hassle with the environment, and the income from the sale of waste on a production scale is scanty. Therefore, enterprises often give away used motor oil for free or for pennies, just to take it out. That is, if you can come to an agreement, there will be something to drown it with.

Two principles in one principle

A homemade stove in testing may not look much more complicated than a saucepan, but the processes occurring in it are very, very complicated. Otherwise, complete combustion with high efficiency and harmless exhaust cannot be achieved. For their full understanding and selection suitable design To perform, or prototype for your own, you must first remember the Coriolis force.

Coriolis force

Coriolis force, as is known, arises due to the rotation of the Earth; this is a vivid example of how the huge and slow manifests itself in the small and fast. It is the Coriolis force that swirls the water flowing out of the bathtub. Since the speed of water flow in the pipe is much less than the sound speed in it (the speed of flue gas flow in the chimney is also the same), Coriolis swirl - it occurs only in the vertical sections of the pipe - is transmitted back, and the formation of a vortex depends on the length of the vertical part of the outlet pipe.

It’s easy to verify this: take a regular funnel, plug the watering can with your finger, fill it with water and release your finger. The water flows out smoothly. Now we put a piece of hose of a meter or more on the watering can, leave it hanging down and do the same. The water began to swirl.

The magnitude of the Coriolis force also depends on the ratio of the density of the medium to its viscosity, so it is more difficult to spin the gas “Coriolis-style.” In addition, gases are compressible, so the Reynolds number and other factors also come into play. High pipe the boiler room can emit a steady column of steam.

But why swirl the flue gases? Without this, it is impossible to achieve high-quality, complete and safe combustion of fuel. In order for the heat from the initial combustion of the light fractions to be used to split the heavy ones, which will then provide the bulk of the heat, the mixture must be thoroughly stirred all the time. You can tighten it with different nozzles, supercharging, etc., but such designs (we will also look at them) are difficult for the average homemaker to make. But the Coriolis force is easier to use; We'll see how later.

Conclusion on the Coriolis force: When repeating furnace designs, the specified dimensions and proportions must be strictly maintained. Non-compliance results in fumes, gluttony, poison.

Main principle

Oil furnace – heating device on heavy, poorly burning and heavily contaminated fuel of complex composition. In order for it to burn completely, its heavy components must be broken down into lighter ones; Oxygen is too tough to oxidize everything in the oil. Burning out completely what has already split is a simpler task.

The splitting process is called pyrolysis, or flame splitting. Ultimately, the heat of combustion of the fuel itself is used for pyrolysis; this is a self-sustaining and self-regulating process, and this is very good. But to start pyrolysis, the fuel needs to be evaporated, and the vapors must be heated to a certain starting temperature (300-400 degrees), after which the pyrolysis will increase and everything will burn. There are two ways to achieve this at home.

Principle one

In the first method, the oil in the tank is simply set on fire. It heats up and begins to evaporate, and then everything happens in a simple vertical pipe with extensions and possibly bends. Schematic diagram The design of such a furnace is shown in the figure.

Air enters the tank with burning oil through its neck with a throttle valve; with its help they regulate the combustion strength, i.e. the thermal power of the furnace without disturbing the combustion mode. To make this possible, gas-air mixture must be continuously mixed along the pipe. This is where the Coriolis force comes to the rescue, if the length of the vertical chimney and its diameter are correctly selected according to the properties of the fuel.

Also, an almost free flow of air is necessary into the combustion chamber into which the reservoir passes - the furnace operates normally with an excess of oxygen. Therefore, the combustion chamber is perforated. The cap to the afterburning chamber (the expansion above the combustion chamber) does not have to be a cap, as in the diagram. This may also be an incomplete partition when the combustion chamber exit is separated from the chimney horizontally. But it is absolutely necessary to separate the zone of oxygen afterburning and nitrogen oxide combustion, and organize a corresponding temperature jump between them, otherwise the still too hot oxygen will take away “food” from the nitrogen oxides, and in the meantime they will cool down to a hole in the phase diagram and go into the pipe in full its harmfulness.

Drawings of a furnace for this type of mining are shown in the large fig. below, her appearance And assembly drawing– in Fig. higher. This is a well-known and proven design for DIYers. Light it with a small torch through a completely open throttle hole. The height of the chimney (straight!) is at least 4 m.

Mini

Here in the picture is also a mini-furnace for waste and oil sludge, which is also very popular among home-made people. The thickness of the material, ordinary structural steel, is from 4 mm. The stove weighs about 10 kg versus 27-30 for the previous one, and its plan dimensions are determined by those of the tank. The author of the design for it recommends the bottom and top of a standard gas cylinder. Quite reasonable if one were available - very durable, and only one weld. But any other container of the specified dimensions plus/minus 20 mm is also suitable for the tank.

This stove has a number of features:

• The mixing zone of the air-fuel mixture is the lower funnel of the combustion chamber. Due to its expansion, the mixture lingers here and kneads for a long time.
• The length of the vertical part of the chimney is limited to approximately 3.5 m. Otherwise, the draft will suck the mixture out before it has time to burn.
• The afterburning zone is not divided and represents the upper funnel of the combustion chamber. Before narrowing into the chimney, the flue gases are again retained and burn out well, but again with moderate draft.

As a result, the thermal power of the furnace is limited to 5-6 kW; “heating up” this stove too much is simply dangerous. But on the other hand, fuel consumption is about 0.5 l/h, and the stove is relatively easy to clean. The design is collapsible, the joints of the combustion chamber with the tank and the chimney are tightened with clamps. When disassembled, this stove can be taken with you in the trunk - to the country house, to a hunting lodge, etc.

Refueling

Let's say you are not too lazy to build an extension for the stove and supply hot water from it to the house. The first task that needs to be solved is feeding the oven at least at night. You cannot increase the reservoir: the oil will not warm up and the stove will not light up as it should. But the solution has long been known: continuous refueling based on the principle of communicating vessels.

The requirements for such recharge are clear from the figure; the throttle on the tank is not shown, but, of course, is still necessary. Of its functions, the only remaining function is combustion control, and this is a big plus for fire safety. Otherwise, you would have to pour a flammable liquid into a fire or a hot vessel, or wait until the stove cools down. Insert a wick into the fuel line as in blowtorch, it’s useless: it will immediately become clogged during mining.

Supercharging

What about a supercharged exhaust furnace? It is known that it increases the efficiency and thermal power of furnaces. Yes, but you can’t just build pressurization into a self-burning stove. Blow into the firebox, i.e. tank, it’s useless - we’ll only unbalance the self-regulating combustion system. The stove will quickly flare up, and then, when the light fractions of the fuel burn out, it will go out: the air flow will take away the heat necessary to evaporate the heavy ones. Unfortunately, the parameters of an oil self-burning stove cannot be improved by blowing into the firebox.

But blowing (more precisely, blowing) can be used for another purpose. By artificially increasing the draft, you can make a chimney with kinks: from the chimney (neck of the combustion chamber) - long, along the entire wall, horizontal pipe, and only then a vertical chimney. This will improve the heating of the room with minimal additional costs, without disturbing the combustion mode in the stove.

To enhance draft, you can use two methods of pressurization into the chimney: injection (pos. A in the figure) and ejector, pos. B. The first is very simple and completely safe: when the boost is stopped, some thrust is retained. The stove will simply heat worse and consume more fuel. But you need a source of compressed air. And a thin (1-3 mm clearance) tube, a durite hose and a control valve.

For ejector supercharging, any low-power fan is sufficient: a 12 V computer fan with a diameter of 120-150 mm, a kitchen exhaust fan, an industrial VN-2 fan or the like. The required productivity is at least 1500 l/h, and the diameter of the ejector inlet neck is 20-50% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

However, if the ejector blowing stops, the flue gases will go into the room, so a flapper valve with a weak return (slamming) spring is needed between the fan and the ejector. Considering also that the connection of the chimney with the ejector looks simple only in the diagram (like all equipment in general), the design turns out to be quite complex.

Video: furnace in operation with supercharging and refueling

Air heating

An oil stove is a compact (concentrated) source of heat, and the heating of the room from it will be uneven, especially if it is not insulated and with thin walls. You can come across recommendations to turn the first of the described furnaces into a more efficient air heater by welding metal ribs onto the afterburning chamber (knob). But this will cause the afterburner to cool down beyond what is permissible, and the operating mode of the furnace will be disrupted.

Now remember: any greedy person collects more than he needs. And an oil-fired stove has a reserve of mode stability, expressed in very specific kilowatts of heat. More precisely - 15-20% of the thermal power, i.e. You can select up to 2-3 kW. You just need to take it carefully and little by little evenly from everywhere, so that the greedy doesn’t catch on.

The simplest way to do this is an ordinary room fan, floor or tabletop, blowing on the stove from a distance of 1.5-2 m. The whole stove will cool down a little, but there will be no temperature jump in the flow of gases that could disrupt the mode. And the flow of warm air will quickly and evenly warm the room. - the best option.

Mini water heater

Now let's see how to organize hot water supply or water heating from a self-burning stove. Placing a water tank on the afterburner means, again, disrupting the combustion mode. Therefore, now we will take heat where the stove itself no longer needs it. How to do this is shown in the figure on the right. For the first of the furnaces described, the heat absorber will need to be built into the structure when assembling it, otherwise the afterburner will interfere.

Instead of a coil, you can weld a water jacket, then you do not need a heat-reflecting screen made of galvanized steel, tin or aluminum. But in any case, there must be a gap of at least 50-70 mm between the heat absorber and the outer wall of the combustion chamber for free access of air, and at least 120-150 mm at the bottom if there is a desire to make the jacket higher. But this doesn’t make much sense; approximately 75% of the thermal radiation comes from the upper third of the combustion chamber and the adjacent afterburner area.

In total, such a heater is capable of delivering up to a third of its thermal power, with forced circulation of the coolant. Quite enough. For a dacha, 20% is enough, then the circulation in the system can be left thermosiphon.

Note: In both cases, the expansion tank needs to be low and wide, at least 50 liters, and must be atmospheric, not membrane, and with an emergency drain in case of boiling. The alternative is complex: automation that adjusts the throttle based on the temperature of the water in the system. The second alternative is no simpler, but even more expensive - filling the system with high-boiling antifreeze. Careful sealing of the joints with a special drainage in the expansion tank is required, which will cost no less than automation.

Disadvantages of self-burning

All self-burning stoves also have serious disadvantages. Firstly, these are devices with an open flame and hot parts accessible to touch - the combustion zone “at full throttle” is red-hot. Therefore, installing them in residential premises is unacceptable, and using them as heating devices is 100% not an insured event. It is necessary to install it in a separate fireproof extension and arrange for heat extraction and removal, at least as described above.

Secondly, it makes no sense to expect to obtain a thermal power of more than 15 kW by increasing the size. The intensity of oil evaporation required for this cannot be achieved by self-burning; Only smoke and soot will do.

Thirdly, the only way to extinguish a fire is with a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Powder - God forbid, if the powder hits hot metal, it will immediately explode! When the throttle is fully buried, enough air will pass through the holes in the combustion chamber to keep the flame warm, like a candle in a glass. It is useless to set up a view anywhere - instant fumes and fumes. If the fire has already started, then the fuel should burn out completely.

Note: The view between the reservoir and the combustion chamber is especially dangerous. Oil vapor is dense; their pressure is high, and the boiling will not stop instantly. Burning oil can splash out, and if the throttle is also closed, the furnace can explode.

Fourthly, the extraction of heat for heating or hot water supply, although possible, is difficult. Excessive cooling of the external surfaces disrupts the temperature regime inside the furnace, which at best leads to a deterioration in efficiency and soot deposition. An oil stove is a greedy stove. She won’t just give up her thermal capital.

Fifthly, when refueling with heavily watered fuel, violent instantaneous boiling is possible throughout the entire volume of the tank. Simply put, it was a stove explosion.

Finally, although the stove is economical (no more than 1.5 l/hour of oil), the heaviest fractions of the fuel cannot evaporate and settle into sludge in the tank. There are 5-6 fireboxes, and you need to clear them out, but this is not easy. The tank must be one-piece welded. A collapsible design of any kind imaginable to a home-made man will not hold boiling, blazing oil. The consequences are obvious.

Principle two

Is it possible to make a waste oil stove free from these disadvantages? So that you can put it in the kitchen and let it warm you? Yes, it’s possible, but you’ll have to work harder and use all your skills.

If you look closely, you can clearly see that the source of all the dangers of self-burning stoves is a reservoir of burning oil. To get rid of it, you need to evaporate and atomize the fuel in some other way. It is best to combine the pyrolysis, combustion and afterburning zones in a flame so that the removal of heat from the flue gases does not disrupt the operation of the furnace. And it is highly desirable that the furnace can operate on watered fuel. Technically speaking, you need a burner.

In industrial conditions, almost any fuel is burned clean in nozzles, the top position in Fig. In order for complete combustion to occur in a torch, a two- and three-stage formation of an air-fuel mixture is used: compressed air pulls atmospheric air, and a diaphragm separates and swirls the air flow. Everything is burned in the nozzle, including the bilge water of the ships.

Note: bilge water is a cocktail of sea water, fuel, wastewater, and cargo that collects at the very bottom of the hold. Collected into the bilge main. sewer in a big city compared to bilge water - a beach in the Canaries.

For normal operation of the nozzle, not only high precision manufacturing and special materials. We also need a whole small fuel preparation workshop: a homogenizer for the contents of fuel tanks, its dispersant in pipelines, pumps, filters, a fuel heating system and the automation that controls it all.

But even this is not enough for working out. The reason for this is the same heavy bituminous components. The nozzle for testing must be supplemented with a flame casing and an afterburning chamber with thermal insulation, the lower position in Fig.

And yet, an exhaust burner available for self-production exists. And even in several guises.

Flaming Bowl

The principle of operation is simple - fuel drips into a hot bowl, evaporates explosively, flares up and burns (pos. A in Fig.). Atmospheric air also enters here, pressurized from a low-power fan; When using a centrifugal scroll fan, it must be screwed in, for which a stationary impeller can be installed at the mouth of the air duct.

To initially warm up the bowl, the burner needs to be ignited, so in industrial settings a flame bowl is rarely used, but home-made people use it successfully. The design ensures almost complete combustion in the immediate vicinity of the bowl, so a boiler with a flame bowl is obtained in the most relaxed way, which is also noted in Fig. 3/4 turnover of flue gases is indicated for clarity. In fact, it is necessary for the gas mixture to swirl inside longer, then the efficiency will be higher. But if the swirl is too strong, combustion is incomplete. Designing a flame bowl from scratch requires very serious knowledge and experience.

Pyrolysis in a flame bowl occurs in a unique way: the decomposition of heavy fractions is ensured not only high temperature, but also by complex physical and chemical processes in an exploding drop, significantly different from those in a large body of matter. Actually, this is no longer quite pyrolysis, and the bowl in a hot state is maintained not only by combustion, but also by the energy released during the disintegration of molecules.

When using waste oil as fuel, afterburning outside the bowl is still required, for which holes and slits are made in the air duct. It turns out something like the combustion chamber of simple mining furnaces, turned inside out. A drawing of a furnace of this type with a power of about 15 kW with a fuel consumption of 1-1.5 l/hour, depending on its quality, is given below.

Pos. B in Fig. above is a low-power (up to 5 kW) bowl with a porous fire-resistant filler 2. It is placed directly on the grate 1 of any stove, even a potbelly stove. The fuel supply is regulated by valve 3, and air enters through the standard blower 4. We will talk about this design in more detail later.

At pos. A highly efficient but complex device for complete combustion of all types of liquid fuel- Babington burner, or BB burner, or simply burner B. Its base is a hollow hot metal sphere 1 with holes with a diameter of 0.2-0.5 mm. Air is blown into the sphere through tube 2, and fuel drips onto it from fuel line 6. The air coming out of the holes atomizes it and it burns. Unburned residues are collected in collection 3, and gear fuel pump 4 are fed back into the fuel line through bypass valve 5.

Note: To test the pump, you need a gear pump. The other will soon fail due to contamination.

The Babington burner has not one highlight, as is commonly believed, but two. Firstly, since air is blown out of the holes, the BB burner operates stably on the most contaminated fuel. Secondly, due to surface tension, the fuel envelops the sphere with a thin film, and the physical chemistry in films is completely different than in aggregates of matter. There are separate sciences - physics and chemistry of thin films. The science is complex, but the essence is simple: the BB burner is completely smokeless, and its environmental cleanliness practically does not depend on either the composition of the fuel or the combustion mode. Therefore, the BB burner can be built into any stove without any problems. For ignition, use a small portion of heating oil in a ring tray under the sphere.

Note: The fuel collection directly under the burner is shown conventionally. In fact, for the sake of fire safety, drops of underburned material fall into a funnel and flow down a narrow tube into a collection tank. By the time they reach the end, they will go out.

About water stoves

A water furnace is not a furnace with a water heating circuit at all. This is a heavy fuel stove with a nozzle, into the flame of which drops of water fall. Instantly evaporating from the heat, they spray fuel, which burns.

People of the older generation remember the bitumen boilers with water nozzles that road workers and builders carried with them. The fuel was the same bitumen, pieces of which were placed in the melting chamber. Nowadays, water stoves are almost out of use, and in some countries they are prohibited for environmental reasons. The exhaust they produce is clear, but very harmful. The reason is the formation of free hydrogen, a strong reducing agent, in the flame. It binds with atmospheric nitrogen, and together they actively react with saturated hydrocarbons in the fuel, producing harmful organics.

From history in passing. Water injection (later a water-methanol mixture) was invented at BMW, which then produced aircraft engines for the Luftwaffe, in 1937, to temporarily increase engine power. At first, the innovation remained in vain - the expensive engine in this mode exhausted its resource in 20 minutes. But in 1944, water-injected Bf-109G3s appeared on the Eastern Front. Contrary to popular belief, the fighting qualities of the Messers are short-term “squeal” from 1900 to 2300 hp. did not improve - the maneuverability of the car was completely lost “at the whine”, and it was possible to fly only in a straight line. But at a speed of 710 km/h. The fact is that experienced German pilots in the east were almost knocked out by that time, and it was impossible to escape from the Yak-3, La 5/7 or Airacobra without “squealing.”

There were few Messers on the western front; they were saved for the east. The basis of the fleet was the heavy, but high-altitude FW-190. If the Messers got to the west, then the “squeal” was removed in parts for the sake of relief: there were fewer maneuverable “dog dumps” over the trenches here, and the “Spitfire” MkVIII and “Mustang” P-51D (both with an English Rolls engine -Royce Griffon XII" with 2200 standard hp) could also cope with the Me-262 jets.

The story of one potbelly stove

The author’s parents had a dacha with a potbelly stove, and he (“You’re already big, you can’t get out of the woods”) was entrusted with fuel procurement. Since the dacha community spread over an area of ​​about 400 hectares, with plots ranging from 6 to 20 acres, the surrounding area was always stripped of not just a sliver of wood, but a dry blade of grass, and often for lunch it was necessary to chew dry meat, flavored with parental reproaches.

And then the boy came across Raymond Priestley’s book “Antarctic Odyssey”. The story is incredible - 6 people, the northern party of Robert Scott's expedition, were abandoned in Antarctica on the eve of winter. Without warm clothes, without reliable shelter, almost without food and fuel.

They saved themselves from the cold and furious Antarctic winds - the Blizzards - by digging a cave in the snow. Using sailors' knives and ice picks, they managed to kill enough seals not to die of starvation until spring. But in the cave it was necessary to maintain the temperature just below zero, at -60 and below outside, otherwise you would not survive, even lying in sleeping bags all the time. And the fatty pots made with blubber were more smoky than warm and luminous.

And then one of the party members, a simple sailor Harry Dickason, made an invention that saved everyone. He poured blubber into a tray from a tin cracker can, threw in some fragments of seal bones, and set it on fire. Melted seal fat, passing through the pores of the hot bone, evaporated and burned with a strong bright flame with almost no smoke. Polar explorers could now not only not be afraid of freezing, but also cook hot food. And they even fried penguin meat on holidays.

By spring, they looked like firebrands with mats on their heads and could barely stand on their feet. But still, all six were able to overcome several hundred kilometers on ice and returned to the base, where they had long been considered dead.

Upon returning, these people, who spent the rest of their lives recognizing themselves as heroes, learned that the well-equipped main party led by Captain Scott himself, reached the South Pole after Amundsen, and on the way back all died.

The idea was born immediately - to convert the stove to oil sludge. At the oil depot they gave it as much as you wanted for free. And the experiments were carried out using feedback from neighboring motorists.

For the bowl, the country caretaker donated a stainless steel bowl. His faithful ally, the wolfhound, the Prosecutor, recognized only the earthenware plate. Replaced seal bones broken brick; I found one for the IV copper tube and a piece of rubber. On fuel tank an unusable washbasin with an ordinary water tap screwed in at the bottom instead of a stem. This was the most expensive and troublesome part of the work: the hole with pipe thread it cost the Soviet hack standard - a bubble. Moreover, the locksmith never agreed to the “Moscow Special” for 2.87, but certainly demanded “Stolichnaya” for 4.12. Apart from explaining to his parents why a 13-year-old boy needed a bottle of vodka.

The potbelly stove was lit during testing simply - oil was poured into the bowl until it appeared above the brick. Then a crumpled newspaper was shoved into the firebox. After a minute or two it apparently became oily, then it was set on fire. After another 3-4 minutes. the flame sharply intensified and brightened, as if in kerosene lamp; this was a sign that it was time to start dripping. A 5-liter wash basin in the spring and fall was enough for a day of heating and cooking. After 3-4 fires, I had to knock out the brick chips that had sintered with sludge into a monolith from the bowl, but the exhaust was clean, even if you smell it.

The stove worked properly for 4 years until the parents decided to move to another city, and was also handed over to the new owner in full working order. What happened to her next is unknown.

Ready-made ovens

Used oil is cheap and accessible view fuel. And the baked goods obtained from it are also not cheap. The stove in testing is a very economical and virtually universal heating device. But not everyone knows how to tinker, even quite responsible constructions. Are such stoves not mass-produced? And if so, how much does a factory furnace cost to run out?

They are produced and are in constant demand. The world leaders in production are Türkiye and Italy. The prices, considering the demand for the products, are not small: the stove is only a little nicer than the first one described, it costs about $1000, and those working on the principle: “Fill it up, press the button and forget it”, with a water heating circuit - from $8000.

There are also domestic ones on sale. household stoves on heavy oil products and oil sludge - KChM, Indigirka, Tunguska and others. But the gas generator hot water boiler “GeKKON” designed by Kurlykov is in greatest demand; it is mass-produced, and used engine oil is included in the list of fuels recommended by the manufacturer.

The structure of the GeKKON boiler is shown in the figure; the positions are as follows:

1. Cap with explosion valve;
2. Gas duct;
3. Thermal insulation;
4. Afterburner;
5. Coolant;
6. Decorative panel;
7. Air blower;
8. Air receiver;
9. Fuel line;
10. Adjustable legs;
11. Evaporator;
12. Slag collector;
13. Ash pan;
14. Gas-air flow swirler;
15. Pyrolysis chamber;
16. Fire body.

The Kurlykov boiler operates on the principle of a flame bowl with afterburning in a tubular chamber. Automatic ignition is not provided, but the height of the chimney is not regulated, and in “GeKKON” the very last “sludge” actually burns completely. “GeKKONs” are produced with a power from 15 to 100 kW; manufacturer's price, respectively, from 44,000 to 116,000 rubles.

Note: Kurlykov's boiler is patented. Making it yourself for sale would be a violation of copyright.

In conclusion

Burning work is, generally speaking, a palliative. You never know what has accumulated in this oil during operation. But in general, from an environmental point of view, combustion of used motor oils is still preferable to their processing, so in developed countries from 4% to 12% of waste is used for combustion; in Russia – 5% of those recorded.

It also makes sense to have a waste furnace because the technology for producing heating oil from the same waste and oil sludge is being improved and its price is slowly but surely falling. And if the stove eats waste, then you can feed it better fuel without any problems.

The development of autonomous heating is a serious direction in global environmental policy. Up to 30% of heat is lost in heating mains, and the overall efficiency of heating plants rarely exceeds 60%, and the furnace provides up to 80%. This is not to mention the savings on pipes and earth-moving equipment, and metallurgy is not a clean industry.

Waste is a cheap fuel that can be used to operate the furnace. Used motor, industrial and transmission oil is available in large quantities at motor transport enterprises and service stations. Instead of recycling, used oil can be reused, which will save a considerable amount of money. The heat transfer from waste oil is equivalent to a 15 kW electric heater. Fuel consumption is 0.5-2 liters per hour. However, there are also some difficulties here. You will learn more about them, as well as how to make a furnace yourself during testing, from the article.

Pros and cons of using used oil

Recycling furnaces adopt the principle of direct heating of air, and as a result of this use of waste oil, garages, greenhouses, and workshops can be heated. It is best to use such stoves at car services, because there is no need to look for fuel. It is already at hand in large quantities.

Advantages

• There is no burning or soot when oil burns
• ease of operation
• fire safety (used oil itself does not burn, only its vapors burn)

Flaws Use of waste oil:

• used unrefined oil from technical services is not suitable for boilers because it contains many impurities, water, alcohols, etc.. The use of such unrefined oil will lead to clogging of the filter, injectors, and even may explode in the fuel heating unit. Therefore, used oil needs to be cleaned and filtered, which is impossible to do at home. Prepared, purified waste oil costs approximately 12 rubles per liter (diesel fuel costs from 28.4 rubles per liter).
• any car service center and state-owned motor transport enterprise are required to enter into contracts with companies involved in the disposal of used oil. That is, they pay money in order to get rid of it, then, accordingly, they will not just give out used oil left and right.
• used oil cannot be kept in the cold. It will freeze outside, so it is necessary to either store the oil in a heated room or bury the barrel to the freezing depth of the ground.

Types of furnaces in production

The most popular waste oil furnaces are pyrolysis furnaces and turbo burners. In pyrolysis furnaces, waste oil is heated when there is a lack of oxygen in the first chamber, where the oil decomposes. The decomposition products burn in the second chamber with a sufficient amount of oxygen, releasing a large amount of heat. The pyrolysis temperature can be changed by reducing or increasing the air supply to the pyrolysis chamber. The main disadvantage of such a furnace is the need for regular cleaning of fractions accumulating in the chamber, as well as the impossibility of automatically maintaining a certain temperature.

Turbo burners operate on the principle of diesel engines. The oil is sprayed into the chamber and the oil vapor begins to burn. The disadvantage of this type of oven is its high sensitivity to the quality of the oil, as well as the need to heat it before use.

Based on the type of design, waste furnaces are divided into furnaces made from a gas cylinder, designs with pressurization, and models with drip fuel supply.

Furnace using a gas cylinder

​ Materials and tools for making a stove

The easiest way to make a furnace is from used gas, oxygen or carbon balloon. The cylinders have good thickness walls, thanks to which such a stove will last for many years. A heating unit from one cylinder can heat a room up to 90 m2. This design can also be converted for water heating. A stove from a cylinder will not require forced air supply, and the oil will flow by gravity. To prevent the cylinder from heating up to fire-hazardous temperatures, it is necessary to set the height of the unit contour in accordance with the height of the combustion source inside the device. To make a furnace from a used cylinder it is necessary purchase:

• chimney pipes internal diameter not less than 10 cm, wall thickness not more than 2 mm and length not less than 4 m;
• fuel tank with a volume of 8−15 liters;
• burner pipes;
• welding machine and electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• file;
• steel corners;
• drill and set of drills;
• level and roulette.

Manufacturing technology

Take a used 50 liter seamless cylinder up to 1.5 cm thick. If the walls are thicker, the bottle will not be sufficiently heated from the inside, and the oil vapor will not evaporate. The boiling point of oil is approximately 300 0 C, so the temperature in the chamber will be above 600 0 C. Then you need to get rid of unpleasant odor odorant (gas to detect leakage) in a gas cylinder. To do this, condensate is drained outside and washed several times with water. Then the balloon filled to the top with water, placed vertically in a special tray or buried to a stable position in the ground.

Bulgarian the top of the cylinder is cut off. After the first cut, water begins to flow into the pan or onto the ground. When the water has drained, you can continue cutting the top. Most the bottom will serve as a chamber, and the cut top with a valve will become the oven lid.

We weld steel corners to the bottom of the cylinder using a welding machine. 20 cm “legs” for the stove. Then the balloon is placed on its “legs”. In the upper part of the sawn-off lower half of the cylinder, we retreat 10-15 cm from above and, using welding, cut a hole for the main exhaust pipe along the diameter of the pipe.

As a hood you need to choose thin-walled chimney pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm and a length of at least 4 m. We insert it into the hole made, hold it strictly vertically and weld it. You also need to make a small hole in the chimney pipe, covered with a plate. With its help you can regulate the air supply.

ATTENTION! The chimney must be straight and vertical. No tilts or angles! The length of the chimney pipe should not be less than 4 m.

We retreat upward 10 cm from the welding site and do welding machine a small hole with a diameter of 2-3 mm. After 5 mm up we make another hole. In the same way we make 10 similar holes, the last one should be at a height of 50 cm from the welding site.

In the same pipe, at a height of one meter from the floor, a hole is made for a new pipe with a diameter of 5-8 cm and a length of 2-4 m. The pipe is inserted parallel to the floor and is welded by welding.

A hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm is cut in the cut off upper part of the cylinder. Recycled oil will be poured into it.

ATTENTION! Under no circumstances should you pour unrefined oil into such a structure. It may contain water or alcohols, and if the temperature rises, an explosion and fire may occur. If all this happens in the garage, the consequences can be catastrophic!

In the upper removable part of the cylinder you can connect the “tray”, on which you can heat a mug of water or porridge. To do this, a square or rectangle is cut out of a steel sheet small size and welded to the lid. Or it can be installed on a pipe that is parallel to the floor.

Oven operation

Used oil is poured for 2/3 cylinder. Then you need to light a sheet of paper, place it on top of the oil and close the oven lid.

After a certain time, the temperature inside the oven will begin to rise, the oil will evaporate and spontaneous combustion of oil vapors.

ATTENTION! Do not add oil to a working oven. Also, gasoline and kerosene cannot be used as fuel.

After finishing work and cooling the oven, you need to empty it of its contents. Clean the upper removable part from accumulated soot by tapping the lid on the cylinder.

Materials and tools

Very popular among craftsmen among the people are designs of waste oil furnaces made from steel sheets . This stove has compact dimensions (70/50/35 cm without chimney), weighs 27 kg, heating can be connected to it, it can be used in cold weather, and the upper part of the stove can be used for cooking. To make such a stove we will need:

• steel sheet 4 mm thick
• steel sheet 6 mm thick
• Bulgarian
• file
• welding machine and electrodes
• a pipe with an internal diameter of 10 cm, a length of at least 4 m and a wall thickness of 4-5 mm for the chimney
• steel corners 20 cm high 4 pieces as legs for the stove
• drawing
• level and tape measure
• hammer
• burner tubes made of steel, copper or painted sheet metal

Stages of manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets

First, let's print it out. drawing of the future furnace with details drawn on it.

Operation of the furnace during mining

If desired, you can give the stove an aesthetic appearance. For this we do special paint: pour half a liter into a liter jar liquid glass, 200 grams of aluminum powder and 20 grams of chalk. The jar is closed with a lid and shaken vigorously. With this mixture using a regular brush the stove is being painted. The resulting mixture can be used to paint three stoves, so the amount of ingredients can be halved.

To use the furnace during mining, you must comply with certain precautions.

• don't put in a draft
• the stove cannot be placed near flammable objects
• there should be half a meter around the stove free space
• must not be allowed so that water gets into the oil, otherwise boiling oil will begin to splash out through the holes in the pipe
• attentively check the chimney for leaks
• use as fuel only technical oil

The oven heats up to operating condition in 5 minutes. To do this you need to fill 2/3 fuel tank and add a little gasoline and solvent (20-30 grams) on top. On a long wire you need to make a burning wick and through the hole for pouring oil set fire to gasoline. It will help the oil warm up to the required temperature so that the vapors begin to evaporate and ignite. After this, a stable column of flame feeds on oxygen is formed in the pipe with holes. The intensity of the flame can be adjusted using a blower hole into which oil is poured.

ATTENTION! Do not leave the oven running unattended!

Video review of a waste oil furnace