Do-it-yourself cutting machine from a grinder with a rigid and returnable holder. A simple and convenient stand for an angle grinder How to attach an angle grinder to a stand

Racks for Bulgarians with their own forces

If you need high quality rack for an angle grinder yourself, drawings, training videos and the annotations below will help you achieve your goal. Making a stand is not a difficult task, but it is necessary for those who often have to work with similar equipment.

Advantages of an angle grinder stand

By making a special rack, you will be given a number of advantages from a similar design:

  • The rotating stand holder provides the ability to make vertical movements, grafting angle grinders ( angle grinder typewriter) for certain tasks performed;
  • Probably grinders initially, by their own design, anticipate the presence threaded holes, created for installing power tools on a desktop or stand. This simplifies the production process of the stand and allows you to position the grinder at the required angle;
  • Rack minimizes the risk of the grinder falling out of your hands or accidentally slipping. A similar thing often happens due to lethargy, fear of the master, or other reasons that force him to reduce concentration on the work process;
  • The stand for angle grinders eliminates the need to constantly hold the power tool in the palm of your hand. This way you get less tired, increase productivity, and produce more than just parts in the shortest amount of time.

Components for assembling the stand

Homemade rack, created for corner grinder or an angle grinder, done on your own based on various drawings. Therefore, before starting work, purchasing devices, carefully decide on a design that is suitable specifically for you.

Read also

It is worth highlighting several main aspects of assembling the stand (bed) for your angle grinder.

  1. Profiled iron pipes. This is a commonly found material on the basis of which stands are made. There the angle grinder will hold tightly, firmly and for a long time. The metal has what remains for our client to make the necessary properties to be able to provide rack designs durability. The only controversial drawback of the metal is the need to introduce welding to connect the parts of the frame. Although in some cases welding is replaced by bolted connections, so you will need a drilling device at work.
  2. Lumber for the rack. Often, wood is used as the main material for the production of the frame. Do not think that this option is completely unacceptable. Wood species hard rocks can handle high loads without deforming throughout service life. Lumber is easier to process than metal, so assembling the structure takes less time and requires little skill. If you do not have a particularly powerful angle grinder and it is lightweight, you have all that remains for our client to do - make the frame specifically from strong wood.
  3. Compound. Rack can be assembled by welding, as it is also called, with bolted connections. Option 2 is more profitable because similar designs Just take it apart if you want.

Stand for an angle grinder! It couldn’t be cooler!

Instagram. This time I made an incredibly cool device for an ordinary one.

Homemade rack for 230 angle grinder angle grinders.Homemade stand for grinder

Introduction to the mechanism of operation of a two-pendulum racks for angle grinders, production process, assembly and tests.

If you have decided on the materials of the rack and the method of connecting the frame structure, prepare the following tools and materials at work:

  • Chipboard or sheet of metal. This is necessary to create the working surface of the rack;
  • Bolts, nuts, washers, keys of appropriate size;
  • 12V relay;
  • Spring of solid power;
  • Channel;
  • Profiled pipe;
  • Corners made of strong metal;
  • Drill;
  • Grinding machine;
  • Welding device.

Assembly rack designs

Read also

A homemade frame has the main main advantage of gaming slots - low monetary costs for improving the grinder. You can purchase a factory model, but this is an expensive pleasure. And additionally, home-assembled racks often have similar properties to their factory counterparts.

This raises a logical question: why pay only for something that is done without the help of others?

However homemade bed places certain demands on the master. He must:

  • Have the least experience;
  • Have the ability to work with angle grinders;
  • Drill carefully;
  • Operate a welding machine;
  • Have enough time to complete the work to improve the grinder;
  • Be patient in case something goes wrong and the rack design has to be redone.

If this happens, then all that remains is to follow the instructions for assembling the rack.

  1. Develop detailed drawing racks, otherwise use ready-made drawings of the frame. It is better to adapt the design directly to yourself and your model of angle grinder, since this way you can assemble a very comfortable, ergonomic frame.
  2. Study the factory models of stands for angle grinders. They can be developed for specific angle grinders, or they can be universal. This important point regarding the purchase of an auxiliary structure for an angle grinder.
  3. Check current state Bulgarians. Use an old, poorly functioning one when constructing a frame angle grinder machine is not advisable. It's better to leave her for rough manual processing blanks, and install the latest, efficient and productive grinder on the bed.
  4. To assemble a simple frame for an angle grinder, you will need two frames and a holder.
  5. Cut from iron pipe segments suitable length according to the rack drawings and make holes at the required points.
  6. Use a welding machine to make frames - upper and lower. Welding can be changed bolted connections, although in such circumstances a reliable weld would be better.
  7. From iron sheet or chipboards cut out work surface. For massive grinders, preference is given to iron tables; for light angle grinders, a sheet of chipboard will suffice.
  8. Install the lower frame on the platform (desktop), after which the upper frame is welded or bolted to it.
  9. The holder is fixed to the vertical frame with bolts. Make sure that the holder can rotate freely, respecting the pendulum principle.
  10. Install a strong spring. This item will allow you to return angle grinder the machine into its own skill and initial position. Fix it with one end of the spring on the upper end of the vertical frame, and the other end is installed on the holder. Over time, the spring can stretch and wear out, which is a natural phenomenon. Therefore, when active use It will be necessary to change the spring from time to time.
  11. To increase the level of comfort when working on an angle grinder with a stand, use a 12 V relay to connect the switch button. Through this element, power will be supplied to the device. This way you don’t have to reach for the button on the grinder every time.
  12. Make sure that the wiring is in good condition and allocate a separate outlet for the machine. The machine is not required to have its own weight characteristics; alas, you should not operate the machine through an extension cord to which other consumers are connected.
  13. Use a metal primer, varnishes and paints to give the angle grinder frame your finished look. This will protect the structure from rust and allow you to receive aesthetic pleasure from the completed stand.
  14. Add a movable ruler and a limiter to the design. By using them you will increase the accuracy of workpiece processing.

Inspect the functionality of the grinder frame only at idle speed after completing the assembly work.


Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a grinder out of an angle grinder I didn’t need cutting machine. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And yet, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, during welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place begins to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.

I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.

But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...

And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a stationary cutting machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.

What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Cutting a water pipe DN32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.

So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. IN purchased options, designed for various grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with locknuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder at three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with the frame tightly adjacent to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:


I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:


And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:




At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:




After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:






Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used a wide one as a marking. masking tape:


After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:


I put one inside the other:


I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:




And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:






Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, he burned it with an electrode outer pipe so as to weld it from the inside:




Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:







Next, I assembled and welded all fastening structure carriages:




I made the rods on which the angle grinder will be attached to the carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. I calculated their optimal length experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:


All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:










At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:

Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:




I attached the entire structure to this sheet:



I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.





After that I welded it in the corners vertical racks from the same pipe, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.




At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes short in length, and, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, they give incredible rigidity! ...

I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.




So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:




After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)

By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, the heads of all mounting bolts with reverse side I boiled, melted and cleaned to get a smooth circular table:


For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I just “fell for it” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))

But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.


After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.

I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.

Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.


I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:


I welded it.


And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:

Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:

I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.










Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:








The handwheel handle was made from furniture bolt, putting a metal tube on it.




I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:



When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.

Next, I started making the protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.

First I made a template out of cardboard.

Angle grinders (angle grinders) are an indispensable hand tool. With their help you can saw, grind, cut almost any materials from wood to stone. But tasks often arise that require the use of machine tools.

For example, when cutting pipes, profiles or metal profiles, the task of cutting a long string into pieces of a certain length is quite common. In this case, it is important that the ends of the segments are strictly perpendicular to the center line.

When cutting ceramic tiles or bricks, it is even more difficult to maintain the perpendicularity of the cut while holding the grinder manually. When cutting thin and viscous material, the slightest deviation of the tool from the cut line can lead to jamming and breakage of the tool.

In such situations, it is quite natural to want not to buy a separate machine - this, as a rule, is not economically feasible.

You can expand the scope of your favorite hand tools, somehow firmly securing it.

Materials and tools

The first question that a home craftsman faces when designing a stand for an angle grinder is what to make it from. The answer to this question is elementary: we will make what we have. If you have it on hand water pipes- they are useful for making hinges and guides. If there is metal corner- Let's assemble a frame from it.

The main and most complex node of the pendulum cutting saw is the hinge unit. It bears the greatest loads, and the pendulum arm should not be able to deviate arbitrarily to the left or right. Please pay the greatest attention to the design of this unit. It is ideal to use roller bearings. Pick a pair suitable sizes- and “around them” build the rest of the structure.

It is best to mount the pendulum arm on ball or roller bearings. This will ensure the best accuracy and rigidity. But if there are no suitable finished products, it is quite possible to peek at the options for homemade designs of this unit.

If there are no ready-made bearings, select pairs of metal tubes and steel pins of suitable diameters. This will allow you to make not very high-quality, but homemade bearings. For a “plywood” machine, good hanging hinges, used for fastening doors and gates, will work well as a suspension for the pendulum arm.

In any case, it is better to make the pendulum arm itself from a metal corner or metal profile. But the holder in which the angle grinder will be fixed will probably be made of wooden beam.

For reliable and tight fixation of the grinder in the holder, it is better to cover the stock with soft and durable material. For example, leatherette. And it is most convenient to press the angle grinder to the holder with flexible metal ties with a screw assembly. These are widely used in plumbing and car service.

It is best to make the bed from a thick sheet of metal. Compromises are possible, up to thick plywood mounted on a frame made of wooden beams. It is good to provide on the work table the possibility of fastening the stop angles at some standard angles to the cutting axis. This way we get a “miter saw”.

Don’t forget that you won’t be able to control turning on the angle grinder on the machine in the usual way. We can replace the operator’s hand on the control keys with the same screw ties for pipelines. But the key control station (which we will attach to the frame), a socket for connecting a fixed angle grinder to the circuit, and a wire with a plug of sufficient length to connect the entire machine to the network should be stored.

If we have metal blanks at our disposal, it is best to connect them by welding. If you do not have such an opportunity, it is better to turn to familiar masters of this business. Bolted connections become loose over time and negate all the advantages of a metal frame.

Of course, the grinder itself will come in handy when making the machine. Using it to cut blanks for a stand, you can feel like Munchausen, pulling yourself out of the swamp by your pigtail.

Manufacturing options

To be honest, the many drawings of do-it-yourself racks available should serve rather as food for thought. It is worth taking a closer look at the design, typical sizes of standard elements and general principles design. Then apply them in our specific case.

The fact is that the dimensions of the structure and individual components will entirely depend on what you have at hand. For a large angle grinder (for example, UShM-230), you may need to make a holder larger size than indicated on the drawing. This will entail the need to replace bearings and so on.

The general principles are quite obvious. The simplest and most commonly used machine is to transform a manual grinder into a stationary pendulum saw. This design consists of a frame, a stand and a pendulum arm hinged to the stand.

Let's consider manufacturing options depending on the available materials.

Rectangular profile frame

Very rigid in itself, this profile allows you to construct a rigid and durable frame. Even more important, the pendulum arm, made of this material, almost does not bend during operation.

But the bed frame is only half the battle. On top of the frame you need to put a “tabletop” - a plate on which the material being processed will be placed under the grinder.

If the frame is made of metal, the best material for the desktop there will be metal sheet. However, a thick sheet of plywood or chipboard is also quite suitable. Just don’t forget that directly under the grinder’s disk in the countertop you need to provide a fairly wide slot to ensure the through passage of the disk through the material being cut.

The vertical post is a very busy part of the pendulum saw. Using a metal profile will create a strong and rigid structure.

When using metal as the base element of the machine, preference should be given to welded joints. Of course, metal profile products can also be connected with bolts.

But such connections do not provide the necessary rigidity.

Carriage made of pipes and shock absorbers

If you have water pipes, a pair of car shock absorbers and a metal corner or profile in your supplies, you can make a wonderful cross-cutting (aka “cutting off”) machine with a transverse horizontal feed of the carriage.

The pendulum assembly is still required to bring the tool into the cutting plane. But the carriage, movable along the pendulum arm, allows you to significantly expand the range of material sizes. Now you can cut quickly and accurately not only pipes, profiles and beams.

The horizontal stroke of the carriage allows us to accurately cut sheet materials of such width as we can design the carriage overhang.

To ensure a smooth, yet precise movement of the carriage, complex rail assemblies with spring-loaded bearings are usually designed. But you can use car shock absorbers. They have a very durable and precise design. If you remove the gas and liquid, you get excellent guides.

The rear shock absorbers of VAZ cars have a rod stroke of almost 200 millimeters. This will allow, for example, when mounting an angle grinder-230 on a carriage, to organize a cutting line up to 400 mm long. But even if you have a compact grinder with a disk with a diameter of only 150 mm, you can still cut sheets up to 200 mm wide. This more than covers most everyday tasks.

When designing a “guides - carriage” assembly based on automobile shock absorbers, it is necessary to take into account that the shock absorber bodies themselves are quite thin and wrinkle easily. Such “guides” should be attached to the upper arm of the pendulum with semicircular clamping brackets. This is where water pipes come in handy.

Wooden elements

If it is not possible to make the basic elements of a pendulum saw from metal, do not despair. Many structural elements It can be made from wood. First of all, this is a bed, a pendulum lever and an angle grinder holder.

The bed can be made from any suitable lumber. Very good are frames assembled from blocks of hard and heavy wood of significant cross section. They are both durable and quite heavy. This ensures the stability of the entire machine.

The frame, assembled from oak timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, is certainly impressive. But it's too expensive. Thick larch or even birch bars are quite suitable for the base of the work table.

But for the manufacture of a pendulum lever, you can use noble types of wood, traditionally used in furniture production. Oak would be quite appropriate here.

When constructing a machine made of wood, do not forget about the overall rigidity of the structure. The significant dimensions of the frame make it possible to ensure the strength and rigidity of this part when manufactured from low-quality materials.

The pendulum arm has a long, elongated design. If made from wood, its geometry may be unstable with changes in temperature and humidity.

For this structural element it is better to use the so-called furniture board, consisting of several wooden elements, glued together.

Plywood parts

An interesting solution to the rigidity problem could be the use of wooden structure plywood. The multidirectionality of the veneer layers in this material gives a certain stability to the dimensions of plywood products. The fact that the product consists of many thin layers connected with strong glue ensures durability.

Plywood is great for making frames and work tables. When designing, it must be taken into account that plywood is very strong and stable in the plane of the product. But the plane itself may experience deformation. Therefore, plywood products should be mounted on rigid frames.

If you need a high-quality stand for an angle grinder with your own hands, the drawings, training videos and instructions below will help you achieve your goal. Making a rack is not a difficult task, but it is useful for those who often have to deal with such equipment.

By making a special rack, you will receive a number of advantages from such a design:

  • The rotating stand holder provides the ability to carry out vertical movements, adapting the angle grinder (angle grinder) to the specific tasks being performed;
  • Many grinders are initially designed with threaded holes intended for installing power tools on a work table or bed. This simplifies the process of making a stand and allows you to position the grinder at the required angle;
  • The stand minimizes the risk of the grinder falling out of your hands or accidentally slipping. This often happens due to fatigue, fear of the master or other factors that force him to reduce concentration on the work process;
  • An angle grinder stand eliminates the need to constantly hold a power tool in your hands. This way you get tired less, increase productivity, and produce more parts in a shorter period of time.

Components for assembling the stand

Photo of the stand

A homemade stand, designed for an angle grinder or angle grinder, is made with your own hands based on various drawings. Therefore, before starting work or purchasing components, carefully determine the design that is right for you.

It is worth highlighting several main nuances of assembling the stand (bed) for your angle grinder.

  1. Profiled metal pipes. This is the most common material on which stands are made. On them the angle grinder will hold securely, firmly and long term. The metal has all the necessary qualities to ensure durability of the rack structure. The only controversial drawback of metal is the need to use welding to connect the frame elements. Although in many cases welding is replaced by bolted connections, you will need a drilling device for the job.
  2. Lumber for the rack. It is not uncommon to use wood as the main material for making the frame. This is not to say that this option is completely unacceptable. Hardwood is able to cope with increased loads and not deform throughout its entire service life. Lumber is easier to process than metal, so assembling the structure takes less time and requires minimal skills. If your angle grinder is not particularly powerful and is lightweight, you have every reason to make the frame from durable wood.
  3. Compound. The stand can be assembled by welding or bolted connections. The second option is more profitable because such structures are easy to disassemble if necessary.

If you have decided on the materials of the rack and the method of connecting the frame structure, prepare the following tools and materials for work:

  • Chipboard or sheet of metal. This is necessary to create a working surface for the rack;
  • Bolts, nuts, washers, wrenches of the appropriate size;
  • 12V relay;
  • Spring of decent power;
  • Channel;
  • Profiled pipe;
  • Corners made of durable metal;
  • Drill;
  • Grinding machine;
  • Welding device.

Assembling the rack structure

A homemade frame has the main advantage - minimal financial costs for improving the grinder. You can buy a factory model, but it doesn't come cheap. In addition, self-assembled racks often have characteristics similar to their factory counterparts.

This raises a logical question: why pay for something you can do yourself?

But a homemade bed makes certain demands on the master. He must:

  • Have minimal experience;
  • Have skills in working with angle grinders;
  • Drill carefully;
  • Operate a welding machine;
  • Have enough time to complete the work to improve the grinder;
  • Be patient in case something goes wrong and the rack design has to be redone.

If all this is there, then all that remains is to follow the instructions for assembling the rack.

  1. Develop a detailed drawing of the rack, or use ready-made drawings of the frame. It is preferable to adapt the design specifically to yourself and your model of angle grinder, since this way you will be able to assemble the most comfortable, ergonomic frame.
  2. Study the factory models of stands for angle grinders. They can be developed for specific angle grinders or be universal. This is an important point when purchasing an auxiliary structure for an angle grinder.
  3. Check the current condition of the grinder. There is no point in using an old, poorly functioning angle grinder when constructing a bed. It is better to leave it for rough manual processing of workpieces, and install a new, efficient and productive grinder on the frame.
  4. To assemble a simple frame for an angle grinder, you will need two frames and a holder.
  5. Cut pieces of the metal pipe to the required length according to the rack drawings, and make holes at the required points.
  6. Use a welding machine to make frames - upper and lower. Welding can be replaced by bolted connections, although in this case reliable welding will be preferable.
  7. Cut out a work surface from a metal sheet or chipboard. For powerful grinders, preference is given to metal tables, and for light angle grinders, a sheet of chipboard will be sufficient.
  8. Install the lower frame on the platform (work table), after which the upper frame is welded or bolted to it.
  9. The holder is fixed to the vertical frame with bolts. Make sure that the holder can rotate freely like a pendulum.
  10. Install a strong spring. This element will allow you to return the angle grinder to its original position. Fix it with one end of the spring on the upper end of the vertical frame, and the other end is installed on the holder. Over time, the spring can stretch and wear out, which is a natural phenomenon. Therefore, during active use, you will need to periodically change the spring.
  11. To increase the level of comfort when working on an angle grinder with a stand, use a 12 V relay to connect the switch button. Through this element, power will be supplied to the device. This way you won’t have to reach for the button on the grinder every time.
  12. Make sure that the wiring is in good condition and allocate a separate outlet for the machine. Your own machine is not necessary here, but you should not operate the machine through an extension cord to which other consumers are connected.
  13. Use a metal primer, varnishes and paints to give the angle grinder frame a finished look. appearance. This will protect the structure from rust and will allow you to receive aesthetic pleasure from the completed rack.
  14. Add a movable ruler and a limiter to the design. With their help, you will increase the accuracy of workpiece processing.

Check the functionality of the grinder frame only at idle speed after completing the assembly work.

Bulgarian in household- an irreplaceable thing. Quickly polishes, sands, and cuts the desired workpiece with smooth edges. However, her character is quite obstinate, and her speed is high. It's quite difficult to hold in your hands. If it starts to vibrate, then there is no need to talk about the accuracy of the work. A tripod or stand for an angle grinder will help you cope with a powerful tool.

Of course, you can buy a stand at your nearest hardware store, but often, taking into account the power of the available grinder, it is necessary to partially modify it. High-quality models are expensive, and Chinese analogues with stamping from sheet material– unreliable, unstable, quickly falling apart due to strong vibration of the machine. You can make a stand with your own hands, fortunately, there are plenty of drawings, diagrams, master classes, and photos today. You can make a homemade product conscientiously, then cut the blanks with smooth edges if necessary. In particular, the load on your hands will be significantly reduced thanks to reliable clamps and fastenings.

Benefits of using a rack

Often home craftsmen are faced with the need to saw and cut workpieces. The grinder is an indispensable thing in the household. But doing the work is sometimes monotonous. It will be difficult to hold the grinder in one position for a long time and make even cuts on the workpiece in case of vibration.

If you want to make a stable, durable support for home tool(grinders) with high-quality fastenings, you should take care of selecting the necessary materials at hand: wooden blocks, plywood for stationary installation of the stand on a flat plane, when you no longer have to hold the grinder in your hands and worry about it flying out abrasive wheel, mutilation.

Main advantages of the rack:

  • fast and accurate cutting of light metals ( aluminum profiles, ceramic tiles, metal corners);
  • the ability to position the grinder at the desired angle;
  • implementation of functions with vertical movement of parts to perform specific tasks in the presence of an angle grinder;
  • providing stability to the rotating holder;
  • minimizing the risks of a possible statement or the grinder falling out of your hands;
  • no need to constantly hold the power tool in your hands;
  • a clear increase in labor productivity and safety at work;
  • manufacturing more parts in a short period of time;
  • precise placement of the workpiece in a vice for the purpose of cutting to the required dimensions.

Isn't it easier to buy?

Someone will say that it is unlikely that a homemade grinder in the form of a tripod will allow you to cut metal accurately and evenly. After all, the speed of rotation and speed of rotation of the tool are elusive to the human eye. Of course, it’s easier to buy a holder in a store and not have to worry about making the device yourself. However, according to many users, purchased racks, especially made in China, need improvements. Such stampings from sheet metal Quite light, short-lived, and quickly scatter.

Taking into account the fact that advice, master classes, drawings, and videos are available in large quantities today, it is quite possible to make an individual mount yourself, taking into account the required functionality, needs, and personal preferences. The answer, most likely, is unequivocal: it is better to make a stand for an angle grinder with your own hands than to buy it for a lot of money.

Secure tool mounting

Home craftsmen say that the best fixation for a workpiece is a vice, with the help of which the risks of injury will be much reduced, even in the event of a sudden scattering of the disk to the sides. The best option may well become rotary vice With longitudinal groove at the base. If you make an oblique cut, you can also expect an increase in the functionality of the device.

To make a stand, it is advisable to choose reliable fastenings. The work will require:

  • profile pipe (2 m);
  • spring to create a counterweight;
  • bolts (2 pieces);
  • tubes (2 pieces) in the form of bearings;
  • metal sheet for mounting a reliable base.

You can make a stand for an angle grinder from scrap materials available in your garage or private home. The work cannot be done without a welding machine. In any case, such a homemade product will cost less than purchased and will be of higher quality than a Chinese product in a store. In particular, the stand frame can be equipped with a handle for ease of operation of the device. To do this, it is enough to weld a tube (20x20), which will allow you to control the weight of the device and also give some convenience to work.

As simple option for homemade it's easiest to find protective cover. Make holes and attach an angle grinder to it, placing it on bolts with self-locking nuts, then connect it to the frame.

Assembly components

First of all, you need to decide what homemade design will be the most suitable. To assemble the frame you will need:

  • hardwood that can cope with any load without deformation in use;
  • profiled metal pipe for reliable, durable mounting of an angle grinder;
  • tool for tightening bolted connections;
  • bolts for connections;
  • relay 12V;
  • metal corners;
  • drill;
  • nuts, keys;
  • chipboard if necessary.

Of course, the welded structure will be more durable and should be preferred. But thanks to the bolts, the structure can be made removable with the ability to move to another location as needed.

Assembly

Making your own tripod for an angle grinder will allow you to avoid many costs, since factory models are not cheap and rarely have good characteristics. Of course, certain skills from the master when assembling the structure will still be required:

  • accuracy of drilling;
  • ability to work with a welding machine;
  • stock of patience;
  • having minimal experience working with angle grinders.

To assemble the rack, you need to adhere to a number of rules in the instructions, choose already finished drawing for the bed or develop your own with adaptation to the existing model of the angle grinder. To make the stand more convenient and ergonomic, you can view the drawings of factory models and develop your own, universal version.

It is equally important to first check the working condition of the angle grinder. If it functions poorly, then there is actually no point in building a powerful frame for it. So, the procedure for assembling the structure is:

  1. take on metal pipe, cut into pieces of the required length taking into account the drawing;
  2. make holes in the designated places;
  3. make 2 frames (upper, lower);
  4. weld or place on bolted connections;
  5. take a metal sheet or chipboard;
  6. cut the working surface according to the diameter of the rack;
  7. install on the lower platform of the desktop;
  8. put on bolts;
  9. attach the holder to the vertical frame so that rotation in the form of a pendulum is free;
  10. install an accurate spring to return the angle grinder to its original position;
  11. fix 1 end of the spring on the upper end, the other end on the holder;
  12. take a relay (12V) to increase the level of comfort when working with an angle grinder;
  13. connect it so that it is convenient to reach the button when holding the grinder in your hands;
  14. check the wiring;
  15. allocate a separate socket for the frame;
  16. take paints, varnishes, a primer for metal and paint the frame in order to give a final, spectacular appearance and protect it from rust;
  17. equip the structure with a limiter and a movable ruler;
  18. check the frame for strength and suitability for use by turning on the angle grinder at idle speed.

After all the assembly work has been completed, you can safely begin cutting parts using a grinder.

Counterweight

A counterweight is necessary to make it easier to work with the grinder and will serve as an indirect element for safety purposes in case the grinder accidentally falls out of your hands. The main task is to assume a vertical position and stop cutting metal at the right time.

Experts advise equipping the counterweight with a switch in the uppermost corner and installing it so that the angle grinder can tilt 90-110 degrees. This is important for safety, because homemade device will be firmly held in place, and the grinder will immediately turn off if necessary.

Today on the Internet you can see a lot of different models counterweights. Certainly, home handyman You should decide for yourself whether you need a counterweight for the rack or not. Here is a simple option on how to make a counterweight with your own hands. For what:

  • select a spring taking into account the weight of the tool;
  • screw it in the right place, you can look at the photo drawing to see how best to install the spring.

Security and Protection

The stand must be firmly attached to the frame. For protection and safety, we recommend:

  • securely attach the cable from the angle grinder to the moving part of the stand;
  • secure the power cord in plastic clamps so that it does not get in the way and does not fall under cutting tool when put into operation;
  • inspect the cutting wheel before starting work for possible damage or chips;
  • Use safety glasses when working to prevent metal particles from getting into your eyes.

In the photo you can see how to properly make protective devices for ease of use. When choosing a tripod for an angle grinder, you first need to consider the diameter of the disk. It is the bed that must correspond to this diameter. A good option would be a pendulum stand, which will simplify the process of sawing with a grinder. Moreover, the pendulum system will allow you to carry out work of any complexity. It is not difficult to make such a model. You will need: a spring, a metal profile, welding machine, corners, pendulum.

Special attention should be paid to the iron table on which the entire structure will be mounted. It is worth checking for strength, stability, and instability. When choosing a rack, you should not forget about safety precautions. During manufacturing, take into account all necessary and suitable parameters.



 
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