Homemade high pressure compressor. The diaphragm pumps How to make a powerful compressor with your own hands
I have been dreaming of buying a compressor for two years now. Very useful device for a wide variety of work in the garage: inflating wheels, painting with a gun, blowing out engine parts, and so on. On average, a simple compressor costs 10 thousand rubles, a homemade one cost 300 rubles, plus a bunch of rubbish that was lying around the house. An old compressor from a refrigerator, gas cylinder, pressure gauge 10 BAR, angles and tees made of brass, plugs for them, nipples with threads from metal moped inner tubes, clamps, washers.
For production I used a compressor from a refrigerator cylindrical installed horizontally. It has a capacity of 10 l/min, this is very little compared to industrial ones, but I don’t need anymore, say, for 5-10 seconds to bleed air at a low pressure of 3 Bar, when in the receiver (I’ll tell you about it later) the pressure is 8-9 Bar.
For the receiver, I take a 50L gas cylinder. I drained all the gasoline from it ahead of time. I tried to unscrew the tap, but no matter what methods I used, the tap would not budge.
Since on the cylinder tap left hand thread, I decided to make a 3/4 inch adapter with a right-hand thread. Took the hose high pressure and two adapters from 3\4 to 10mm with left and right threads. The result is such an adapter
I assembled a simple splitter from tees and angles and made a test switch.
In 45 minutes the cylinder gained a pressure of almost 9 bar, with a receiver volume of 50L this is approximately 430L of air
I filled it a couple of times, and then lowered the cylinder upside down to remove the remaining gas and gasoline, and then began a thorough assembly. The position of the cylinder is horizontal, I welded the compressor mount on top and installed all the wiring with a pressure gauge. I secured the circuit with clips mounted on nails welded to the cylinder. The compressor was connected to the circuit with a hose, secured with clamps
I drilled a hole in the plug, inserted a nipple into it and put a rubber gasket on top. The plug was clamped onto the tap, and there were two tees in a row to the tap: one outlet to the receiver, the other to the pressure gauge. Next I screwed the corner, to the corner the filter rough cleaning, there is a coupling to the filter and the same plug as on the other side.
A filter had to be installed so that the oil that is squeezed out by the compressor would settle and not get into the receiver and pipes.
All that's left to do is weld the legs and paint everything the same color. There was one leg at the front, two at the back. All legs are remains of a corner
I haven’t set the machine to turn off until I don’t have the money to buy it. For the same reason, I did not install a pressure regulator. As soon as I have the money, I’ll finish it, but for now it’s enough as it is.
Similar video from YouToBe
I won't paint it, I'm too lazy.
With uv. Admin check
This air piston compressor It’s very easy to make and anyone can repeat it if desired. The compressor can be used to inflate balloons, for some chemical experiments where it is necessary to create air bubbles in a liquid, like a compressor for aquarium fish etc.
What is required to make a compressor?
- The motor with a 12 V gearbox is the most scarce part, you can buy it here -
- Several bicycle spokes.
- Two valve nipples from a bicycle.
- The power supply is 12 V, you can buy it here if you don’t have it -
Bicycle spoke.
Manufacturing
So, if you have collected all the components, we can start making our compressor.Bend the knitting needle at the end at a right angle.
Using wire cutters, we’ll bite off the knitting needle on the other side so that we get an L-shape like this.
We insert the threaded part of the spoke into the hole in the gear motor shaft. The hole was there originally. We fix it with a second locking nut from another spoke, tightening it with pliers.
Then we take two knitting needles and wind one on the other. We take out the inner knitting needle and bite off part of the wound knitting needle. This is what should happen.
We bite off at a distance of about 10 cm and make a bend.
Next, we put this curl on the part that we made earlier for the gear motor. The limiters were made from locking nuts from the spokes. Fixing the nuts super glue. We have a moving unit. This is the piston arm that will push the compressor piston.
Let's take a piece of wooden board and attach the motor with gearbox and our crank system using a bracket, screws, and wooden block for elevation.
Let's take out the syringe, separate the needle - it won't be needed.
We take out the syringe piston and cut the lower edges into a cone to ensure greater ease of movement of the piston, removing excess pressure.
Using a hot soldering iron, on the side closer to the beginning of the syringe, we will make a hole for the nipple valve.
Insert the nipple and secure it with super glue. This will be the intake valve.
Fill the hole for the needle with hot glue - we won't need it.
We make another hole with a soldering iron and insert the exhaust valve, and also fix it with super glue.
For greater reliability and to prevent leaks, we fill the valve connections with epoxy resin.
Let's take the gel paste ballpoint pen. Cut a small piece about 1 cm. Glue this piece to the end of the piston with super glue.
Let's insert the end from the spoke of our mechanism into it. And install the modified syringe on wooden stand. Everything is fixed with hot glue.
Proposed homemade compressor intended for use at home. With its help you can quickly and efficiently carry out painting work or inflate a car tire. The compressor consists of an electric motor and a pump nozzle driven by it. The nozzle is mounted on a mounting plate and mounted on three studs. The pump is diaphragm type. It consists of an aluminum head, to which the intake and exhaust valve seats are attached on studs, and a diaphragm made of rubberized fabric, sandwiched between the head and a steel ring. The diaphragm is connected to the piston and connecting rod using a pressure plate.
The rotational movement of the engine shaft is converted by the eccentric into the reciprocating movement of the connecting rod, and therefore the diaphragm. When it moves from the top to the bottom position, air is sucked into the internal cavity heads. During the reverse movement, the spring-loaded suction valve closes, pressurized air opens the outlet valve and exits through the fitting.
Two bearings are pressed into the connecting rod with a slight interference fit, locked with a ring. The eccentric is mounted on the motor shaft on a key. To reduce the vibrations created by the connecting rod, the main and additional balancers are attached to the eccentric and the shaft. Precise adjustment of the position of the latter is carried out while working with the compressor.
The base is made of thick textolite. The sockets, valves, fittings and piston are made of nylon (polyamide P-AK7). The compressor housing is assembled from sheet PCB 2.5 m thick.
1 - base (textolite); 2 - additional balancer (St1); 3 - main balancer (St1); 4,18,36,39 - M6 bolts; 5 - eccentric (St4); 6 - fastening plate (St1); 7 - connecting rod (St4); 8 piston (polyamide); 9 - pressure washer (AL-5); 10 - outlet socket (polyamide); 11 - exhaust valve (polyamide); 12 - guide fitting (polyamide); 13 - cotter pin; 14.33 - washers; 15 spring; 16 - suction socket (polyamide); 17 - suction valve (polyamide); 19 - M5 piston bolt; 20 - remote bushing (3 pcs.); 21 - retaining ring; 22 - electric motor AVE-071-4; 23 - shock-absorbing bushing (rubber, 4 pcs.); 24 - support (rubber, 4 pcs.); 25 - M5 nut (8 pcs.); 26 - pressure plate; 27 - M5 pin (2 pcs.); 28 - M5 head bolt (12 pcs.); 29- head (AL-5); 30 - ring (St1); 37 - diaphragm (rubberized fabric); 32 - bearing 7000806 (2 pcs.); 34 – key; 35 - spacer sleeve (St1); 37 compressor housing (textolite); 38 - M8 bolt (4 pcs.); 40 support foot (2 pcs.).
The electric motor used is AVE-071-4 - from washing machine. By rewinding its windings, the shaft rotation speed is increased from 1350 to 2800 rpm. For better starting at low voltage in the network, an additional starting capacitor with a capacity of 10 μ x 250 V is installed, which, if necessary, is connected to the circuit with a button. Buttons and switches must be designed for a voltage of 220 V and a current of at least 2 A.
It is possible to use engines of other brands in the compressor, but with the appropriate power. The motor from a washing machine does not need to be modified, but in this case the pressure created by the compressor will be almost half as much; productivity will also decrease.
The long operating time confirmed the high reliability of the manufactured compressor.
Brief technical data of the compressor:
Maximum generated
Many craftsmen know that you can make a compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands! Can . But few people know exactly how to do this! In this article we will try to provide a comprehensive answer on how to make a compressor with your own hands, so that anyone can create this equipment at home.
After all, if you look at it, the essence of the issue is air compressor needed in every garage. Using a compressor, you can inflate wheels without visiting a service station or tire shop, supply air to a working pneumatic tool, or simply blow off dust from the surface being treated. So, let's consider the installation option for painting.
Factory or homemade compressor
There is a list of specific requirements for a painting station. The main condition is the need for a uniform supply of air, without any impurities. Standard defects that occur due to the presence of foreign particles include graininess, shagreen, or cavities in the enamel coating. If the paint flows unevenly, drips or matte heels may form.
Of course, if you pay attention to branded air compressors, then such installations are equipped with all the necessary functions for quality work airbrush. The only drawback of such units is their cost.
To save money and at the same time create a functional model that will not be inferior professional equipment, you need to familiarize yourself with the theoretical information base or watch a video on the topic “do-it-yourself compressor for painting a car.”
The operating principle of any model, regardless of whether it is homemade or factory-made, is the same. Excessive pressure is created in the tank. The method of air injection is different (manual, mechanical). In the case of manual feed is happening significant savings money, but a lot of energy is spent. After all, the process requires constant monitoring.
Automatic inflation allows you to avoid these disadvantages, with the exception that the oil for the air compressor requires periodic replacement. Thus, there is a uniform supply of air to switchgear. In theory, this looks extremely simple, so it is possible to create an efficient compressor station in a short time.
Do it yourself
So, we choose to make a painting installation from a regular car camera. List of required materials:
- A car camera that acts as a receiver;
- A pump with a pressure gauge that acts as a supercharger;
- Chambered nipple;
- Repair kit;
- An ordinary awl.
Now you can start making the compressor station. The chamber must be checked for leaks; to do this, it must be inflated. If there are air leaks, the problem must be corrected, either by sealing or by vulcanizing with raw rubber.
After which, using an awl, you need to make a hole in the manufactured receiver. A nipple will be placed here, through which a uniform stream of compressed air will come out.
The additional fitting is secured by gluing. A repair kit will help solve this problem. Then the fitting is connected to the spray gun. To check how the air flow comes out, you need to unscrew the nipple.
In this case, the original nipple remains, it will serve as a valve and hold excess pressure. Finally, you need to determine the pressure level by spraying paint on metal surface. If the enamel lays down evenly, then the installation is working well.
In addition, the pressure value can be checked using a pressure gauge. But, its level, even after pressing the aerator key, should not be abrupt.
It is not difficult to design a compressor, but after its manufacture, anyone can make sure that repairing or painting a car will be much more effective than it was with a spray can.
Among the last parting words should be the fact that it is necessary in every possible way to avoid getting into car camera water or dust. So that these particles do not subsequently get into the spray gun, otherwise you will have to re-paint.
As a result correct operation, the created installation will work long time, but it’s better to automate air pumping.
Semi-professional air blower
Experts have repeatedly commented that homemade compressor units have a longer service life. Moreover, comparisons were made with domestic and foreign models.
This is natural, because the installation is being manufactured with my own hands. Therefore, we will consider the option of how to make a compressor from a refrigerator that will not be inferior even to products from famous companies. So, for its manufacture you need the following list of materials:
- Receiver for compressor;
- Pressure gauge;
- Relay for monitoring pressure in the compressor;
- Threaded adapters;
- Fuel filter (gasoline);
- Gearbox with oil and water separating filter;
- Plumbing cross with ¾ inch thread;
- Motor for compressor unit;
- Automotive clamps;
- Motor oil (10W40);
- Switch (220 V);
- Oil resistant hose;
- Brass tubes;
- Regular syringe;
- Thick board;
- Compressor rust converter;
- Power system filter (diesel);
- Metal paint;
- Nuts, washers, studs;
- Wheels for furniture;
- Sealant, fum tape;
- Needle file.
Working mechanism
To simplify the procedure, the engine can be a compressor from an old refrigeration unit Soviet model. There's one here positive point, namely the presence of a compressor start relay.
Soviet models are superior to their foreign competitors by producing higher pressure. After removing the executive unit, it is necessary to put it in order, freeing it from accumulated rust.
A rust converter will help treat the compressor to prevent further oxidation. In this way, the working motor housing will be prepared for subsequent painting.
Installation diagram
After completing the introductory part, you can start changing the oil. After all, if you don’t cheat, there are very few refrigerators that have managed to undergo regular maintenance or oil changes. However, this course of events is also completely justified, because in this case the system is completely isolated from atmospheric influences.
So, semi-synthetic oil is quite suitable for this procedure. Moreover, it is no worse than compressor oil and has a sufficient number of useful additives.
We go further and find 3 tubes on the compressor, 2 of which are open, one is sealed. In our case, open tubes will be used for air circulation (inlet and outlet). To understand how air moves, you need to apply power to the compressor for a short time. Then remember or write down which air duct draws in air and which, on the contrary, releases.
The purpose of the sealed tube is for routine oil changes. Therefore the closed end should be removed. A needle file will help us with this; we need to make a notch around the circle of the tube. In this case, you should make sure that chips do not get inside the compressor.
After that, it is necessary to break off the end of the tube and drain the oil into any container in order to determine its volume for subsequent replacement. Then we take a syringe and fill in the semi-synthetic, but in a larger volume than was drained.
When the oil is filled, you need to turn off the engine lubrication system. This can be done by selecting the required screw, after which this screw is wrapped with fum tape and screwed into a tube. This is a good time to remind you that oil droplets will sometimes leak out of the supercharger air outlet tube.
Therefore, an oil and water separator for a compressor will come to the rescue.
When the indicated work is completed, it is time to begin assembling the installation. You need to start by strengthening the engine with a starting relay on wooden base, so that it is in the same position as it was on the frame.
This is necessary due to the sensitivity of the compressor relay to spatial position. To determine more precisely, an arrow should be drawn on the top cover. It is important to maintain accuracy here, because the correct switching of modes will depend on the installation of the compressor.
Air container
An excellent solution to the problem would be fire extinguisher cylinders. This depends on their ability to withstand high pressure; in addition, the cylinders have a significant margin of safety and are excellent as attachments.
So, let's take the OU-10 fire extinguisher as a basis. Its working volume is 10 liters. According to technical characteristics the cylinder can withstand pressure of 15 MPa. Now we need to unscrew the locking and starting device from our workpiece, and then screw in the adapter.
In this case, if traces of corrosion are detected, they must be removed with a rust converter. Of course, external removal is not difficult, but internal removal will require patience. Therefore, we pour the converter inside the cylinder and shake the contents.
After cleaning, you can screw in the plumbing cross. Thus, two working parts of our compressor installation were prepared.
Installation of parts
To make it easier to store and move working parts, it is best to place them on one base. As was said earlier, you need wooden board, which will serve as the basis for securely fastening the engine, as well as the fire extinguisher body.
Therefore, we will use as an engine mount threaded rods, which need to be threaded in advance drilled holes. Of course, in addition to everything you will need nuts (washers).
Then you need to position the receiver in a vertical position; 3 sheets of plywood will come in handy here. In this case, you need to make a hole in one sheet for the cylinder. The remaining sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver.
But, the day before, you still need to hollow out a recess in the wooden base for the bottom of the receiver. And finally, in order for the structure to be maneuverable, you need to screw furniture wheels to its base.
After everything has been done, you need to protect the system from possible dust. A gasoline coarse fuel filter will come to the rescue. It will serve as an air intake.
This will involve the rubber hose and the supercharger inlet tube. It should be noted that there is low pressure at the inlet of the compressor station, and, therefore, strengthening the contact using automotive clamps is not necessary.
Thus, we have created an input filter for the compressor unit. At the outlet of the station, you need to install an oil and water separator that will block the entry of water particles. The power system filter will be used here. Due to the fact that the pressure at the outlet of the compressor station is increased, automobile clamps will be used from this point.
So, the turn came to the oil-water separating filter. In this case, it must be connected to the input of the gearbox, which is needed to decouple the reservoir and the pressure output of the supercharger. This means that we screw the outlet into the previously prepared cross on the left side, and screw in a pressure gauge on the right, thanks to which we can control the balloon pressure. You need to screw in the adjusting relay on top of the cross.
The presence of an adjustment relay will make it possible to set the height range of the receiver pressure, as well as interrupt the power supply circuit in the supercharger in a timely manner. When it comes to the actuator, it is recommended to use PM5 (RDM5).
With the help of these devices, the compressor will turn on if the air pressure in the tank drops below the set level and turn off if the specified parameters are exceeded.
The required pressure is adjusted on the relay using two springs. The function of the large spring is to create a minimum pressure, while the small spring is responsible for regulating the upper limit, essentially setting the shutdown limit for the compressor unit.
PM5 (RDM5) were primarily produced for the purpose of use in the water supply network; in fact, these are ordinary two-contact switches. In our case, one contact is used for the zero connection of the 220 V network, while the second contact goes to the connection with the supercharger.
We conduct the network phase through a toggle switch to connect to the second input of the compressor station. If there is a toggle switch in electrical diagram, we will be able to quickly disconnect the system from the network, which will save you from running around towards the outlet.
Naturally, all connections must be soldered and carefully insulated. After this, you can paint the finished installation and carry out test tests.
Adjusting the pressure
So, after assembling the structure, it is quite natural to check it. To do this, you need to connect a spray gun, or, alternatively, a pneumatic gun. Then, without turning on the toggle switch, we connect the plug to the network.
We install the adjusting relay on minimum pressure, and supply power to the supercharger. Don't forget about the pressure gauge, which allows you to control the pressure in the tank. After we managed to make sure that the relay turns off the engine, we need to check the tightness of the connections.
A classic soap solution can help here. If the system has passed the leak test, you can bleed any remaining air from the reservoir chamber. Please note that if the pressure drops below established limits, the relay should start the compressor. If all systems are in working order, it is possible to begin painting any part.
At the same time, you should not burden yourself with pre-processing of the metal. It is important for us to set the pressure required for painting the product.
Such experimentation will give us the opportunity to determine the atmospheric value so that any product is painted in a uniform layer. In addition, it is very important that this entire process occurs with a minimum amount of blower activation.
Thus, we can summarize the results. Making a car compressor is a lifting activity for every car enthusiast.
Of course, it’s hard to argue with the fact that the second version is more complicated and will take more time to manufacture, but thanks to the automatic pressure control system, as well as the presence of a supercharger start, working with such equipment will be an absolute pleasure.
In addition, you will no longer need to control the receiver's camera. Such a station will allow you to paint a car, a fence in a village or a garage door.
For long-term operation of the created compressor, it will be necessary to carry out periodic routine maintenance . You can use a syringe to drain the oil. In this case, unscrew the filler hole, put a hose on the tube and pump out the waste. Fresh oil can also be pumped in using a syringe. Filters are changed as needed, including if the rate of filling the tank chamber decreases.
Make or buy
Today the market is filled with a variety of compressor equipment. There are piston installations here, vibration units, screw stations and other devices that are manufactured for various purposes. Ready installations can be purchased at auto parts stores or on specialized websites.
A large selection can make it difficult to choose the right product. But be that as it may, if you decide to buy a ready-made station, focus on studying the technical parameters, cost and reviews.
To obtain a quality guarantee, it is better to purchase equipment from well-known brands However, an expensive product will pay for itself in the case of professional car repair. Little-known products can let you down, so it’s better not to take risks.
Often budget options Low quality materials installed. There are frequent cases of installation failure due to instantaneous breakdowns individual parts, whereas warranty repair will take a lot of time.
As already mentioned, hand-made assembly is often more reliable than factory assembly. A separate advantage is technical parameters. For example, according to statistics, refrigerator compressors last for decades. Regarding the fire extinguisher, we can say that this product has a tenfold safety margin.
Therefore, it is better not to buy something that you are unsure of. In addition, having studied the current material, you know that you can make a compressor with your own hands, even at home. A well-made device will be the envy of your garage neighbors.
Another story
Let's start with the design technical requirements to the fruit of his own engineering. Let's say it all started with the purchase of a new double-action airbrush. Therefore, the issue of manufacturing a compressor unit with a receiver became extremely necessary.
A dual action airbrush has the ability to control the air flow as well as lock and open the air duct. In Europe, such a device is used with a separate compressed air cylinder. So, a compressor with a reservoir serves as a container for collecting air, and the airbrush uses this air.
Of course, the main component is the compressor. This is where it comes to the rescue old refrigerator, from which you can remove an excellent compressor. To do this, you can go through websites that sell refrigeration equipment.
We decide on the price and order delivery, but before that we also need to write down the name of the manufacturer and visit the website. So, in our case, the manufacturer is Danfoss. On the company website we download technical description compressor.
Next, we’ll consider an option like a do-it-yourself compressor receiver. Here, of course, you need a reservoir that was made to contain gases or can withstand high pressure. It is optimal if such a container meets the requirements of GOST. Therefore, we immediately exclude containers by type plastic canister or bottles. Let's look at the tank options:
- Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Withstands pressure - 10 atmospheres. Capacity – 3 l/5 l/10 l. Cons: the inlet has a metric thread.
- Hydraulic accumulator. Good capacity capacity, with low operating pressure. There is a convenient thread at the entrance. Cons - needs fine-tuning, since from the inside it is divided into a membrane that contains carbon dioxide. The membrane must be removed.
- Oxygen cylinder. Withstands high pressure. Cons: Only extremely heavy models are available.
- Propane tank. In general, they are similar to a fire extinguisher, but the manufacturer does not recommend their use for compressed air.
Links
Once we have decided on the compressor and selected a suitable product for the receiver, the next step is to combine them. In addition, it is necessary to solve the problem of air supply to the airbrush.
You can start with a unit that is attached directly to the receiver and will ensure air distribution. It must be recalled that the key factor is its compatibility with the receiver connector. Next, we pay attention to the pressure switch, which will ensure that the compressor is turned off and on.
The best option for the relay would be RDM-5, which is used for plumbing systems. This model is widely available for sale, and the good thing is that its connecting element is designed for external inch threads.
Then we determine the pressure indication in the receiver. For this we need a 10 atmosphere pressure gauge; it also has a suitable connection size. And we will also need a static device.
Next we are working on the air preparation unit. Pressure must be applied to the hose that leads to the airbrush. Accordingly, there is a need for a gearbox with a pressure control limit of up to 10 atmospheres, and it is desirable that it be accompanied by a pressure gauge and an oil separator filter.
Using a pressure gauge, we will monitor the pressure, and the filter will ensure that particles of compressor oil do not enter the receiver. But it should not be confused with a lubricator filter, which performs a diametrically opposite function.
Let's continue collecting materials, and it's time to prepare fittings, turns, and tees. We take inches as the base size. To determine the quantity, you need a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit.
We will also need external and internal adapters. If you wish, you can make a plan diagram of how to make a compressor. The next stage is placement finished design. Chipboard boards may be an option.
Of course, in order not to swear while moving the station around the workshop, it is advisable to immediately resolve the issue with the roller legs. Any furniture store will be happy to sell them to you. To save space, you can make a two-story structure. True, long bolts may be needed. So, let’s summarize the planning stage with a list of components:
- Compressor;
- Receiver;
- Pressure switch;
- Pressure gauge;
- Filter reducer;
- Emergency valve;
- Fittings, adapters;
- Plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant;
- Cables, switch, plug;
- Flexible oil-resistant hose;
- Chipboard sheet
- Roller legs, bolts, nuts, washers and tools.
Let's start assembly
The ideal would be to dismantle the fire extinguisher assembly and weld the adapter fitting. An alternative way is to unscrew part of the valve, leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element, then screw an adapter with internal inch thread, to another adapter from 1 to 38.
Using an adjustable wrench, twist the adapters according to the diagram. Next, we install the reducer, pressure gauge, pressure switch and adapter for a flexible hose.
The next step is to screw the wheels to chipboard sheet. Since the structure will be two-level, you need to drill holes for the studs. After that, we put the fire extinguisher in its place.
In the case of using a hydraulic accumulator, the assembly diagram is even simpler, since it has brackets at the top and bottom. Therefore, the lower fasteners are screwed to the base, and the upper ones are used to install the compressor.
In our case, the second floor needs to be built. To do this, markings are made, holes are drilled, and the upper and lower floors are bolted together. After which a compressor is installed on the second floor. Silicone gaskets are suitable to reduce vibration.
When installing the compressor, we install washers. We screw the air distribution module to the tank. Using a hose and clamps, tightly connect the compressor outlet and the inlet of the air preparation unit.
Now it's time to work with the wiring diagram. It would be appropriate to install a jumper. Protective elements will also come in handy. The connection line must pass through the relay and switch. The connection itself will proceed as follows.
From the plug the phase wire goes to the switch. Then it is connected to the desired relay terminal. If there is no ground wire, connect the neutral wire to the relay ground terminal.
Already from the relay, the phase wire and the neutral wire go to the compressor station drive starting device and are connected according to the diagram to the required terminals. Next, install a jumper on the terminal block of the starter by soldering.
It will ensure the connection of the windings to the phase. Cables can be laid in plastic ties. We check and start the installation. Then we paint it.
Do you want to know everything about car painting? Read more useful articles:
- . Everything is to the point.
- . These tips are important.
- . Useful if you want to buy a car.
To paint a car, as a rule, a paint spraying device is used. This is an air compressor and a spray gun connected to it. If you are planning such equipment for your garage, you can make a compressor yourself or purchase a factory model.
It's quite obvious what to buy finished product much simpler. This entails less labor costs. However self-production- This is a significant financial saving. In addition, experts say that homemade powerful electric compressor for a car with a relay and receiver it can be much more efficient and durable than a serial product. Below we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting a car under 220V voltage yourself.
DIY compressor for painting cars
Obviously, for work we will need to collect certain materials. So, to assemble a homemade 220V air compressor for painting a car, we will need the following parts:
- pressure gauge;
- gearbox with oil and moisture protection filter;
- relay for pressure regulation;
- cleaning filter for gasoline engines;
- crosspiece for water with thread inside;
- threaded adapters;
- clamps;
- motor;
- receiver;
- engine oil;
- switch for 220V voltage;
Materials for a homemade compressor - brass tubes;
- oil-resistant hose;
- wooden board;
- syringe;
- rust remover;
- studs, nuts, washers;
- sealant, fum tape;
- enamel for metal;
- saw or file
- furniture wheels;
- diesel engine filter.
Compiling this list is not difficult. After we have collected everything we need, we can get to work.
Assembling the engine
We start work from the very beginning important element- an engine that will create the required amount of air pressure. Here we can use a motor from an unnecessary refrigerator.
Its device includes a relay, which will be needed in order to maintain a given air pressure. Experts say that old Soviet models can achieve higher pressures than new imported engines.
We remove the motor from the refrigerator, carefully clean it and treat it with a product to avoid oxidation of the housing. After this it will be ready for painting.
Removing the refrigerator motor Now you need to change the oil in the engine. Semi-synthetic is quite suitable for this - it is no worse than motor oil and has a lot of useful additives.
The motor has 3 tubes: 1 closed and 2 open, through which air circulates. In order to determine the input and output channels, we turn on the motor and remember where the air goes in and where it comes out from. The closed tube is used just for changing the oil. When working with a file, we make a cut in such a way as to avoid sawdust getting into the tube. We break the end, remove the oil and pour in a new one, using a syringe for this purpose.
To seal the channel after changing the oil, select a screw of a suitable cross-section, wrap sealing tape around it and screw it tightly into the tube.
We mount the motor together with the relay on a thick board, which will act as a foundation. We choose the position in which it was in the refrigerator. This is necessary because the start relay is extremely sensitive to how it is placed. As a rule, there are corresponding markings on it - adhere to correct location in order for the relay to work stably and correctly.
We mount the motor on the prepared board
Air tank - necessary element, which is necessarily included in the compressor device. It must be designed for a certain amount of pressure in order for the device to work correctly. We can use old containers from ten-liter fire extinguishers as a receiver - they are durable and airtight.
Instead of a start valve, we screw a threaded adapter onto the receiver - for tightness we use a special FUM tape. If the future receiver has pockets of rust, they must be removed by grinding and processing by special means. In order to eliminate pockets of corrosion inside, pour in the product and shake well. Then we install the water cross using sealant. We can assume that the homemade receiver is ready.
We use an old fire extinguisher as a reservoir for compressed air Assembling the device
We attach the receiver from the fire extinguisher together with the motor to a base made of a thick board. We use nuts, washers and studs as fixing means. The receiver must be positioned vertically. To attach it, we take three plywood sheets, in one of them we make a hole for the cylinder. We attach the remaining two sheets to a wooden base and plywood sheet, which holds a homemade receiver. To the bottom wooden base wind the wheels furniture fittings for better maneuverability of the mechanism.
We put a rubber hose on the compressor inlet tube, to which we connect a cleaning filter for gasoline engines. Additional clamps will not be needed since the inlet air pressure is relatively low. To avoid the presence of moisture and oil particles in the air flow, we install an oil-moisture separating filter for diesel engines at the outlet. Here the pressure will already be quite high, so special clamps with screw fastenings should be used for additional fastening.
The diagram below shows how a homemade one is assembled car compressor for painting cars.
Compressor diagram for car painting Next, we connect a filter to remove oil and moisture to the input of the gearbox, which we will need to decouple the pressure in the engine and the cylinder. We make the connection via a water cross with the left or right side. WITH opposite side We install a pressure gauge on the crosspiece to monitor the pressure level in the cylinder. We mount a relay for adjustment on the upper end of the cross. All connections are sealed using sealant.
With the help of a relay, we can supply the pressure we need to the receiver, while ensuring stepwise operation of the mechanism. The relay is adjusted by two springs, one of which sets the upper pressure limit, and the second - the lower one. We connect one contact to the supercharger, the second is connected to the zero phase of the network. We connect the second network input of the supercharger via a toggle switch to the mains phase. The toggle switch will make it possible to turn the device on and off from the power supply without removing the plug from the outlet. We carry out soldering and insulate everything electrical contacts. After painting, our homemade car compressor will be ready for testing.
Homemade compressor for painting a car Testing and setting up a homemade compressor for painting cars
For testing, we connect a spray gun to the output. We put the toggle switch in the off position and turn on the plug electrical outlet. Set the relay regulator to the lowest value and turn on the toggle switch. For control we use a pressure gauge. We make sure that the relay regularly opens the network at the right moments. Using water with detergent We check how tight all hoses and connections are.
Next, we empty the container of compressed air - after the pressure drops to a certain level, the relay should turn on the motor. If everything works fine, you can try to use the device to paint a suitable object. We look at the quality and make sure that the device works stably and can be used to work on cars.
