Do-it-yourself trailer for a motor-cultivator (drawings). Do-it-yourself homemade trailers for a walk-behind tractor, video. Do-it-yourself trailer for a walk-behind tractor: drawings
Of course, you can buy a ready-made trolley for a walk-behind tractor at the appropriate store. But this option is far from ideal:
- It is not always possible to find a unit that suits you in all respects;
- the quality of many products leaves much to be desired;
- The high price may put you off.
Therefore, before you buy a trailer, you should think about what you need it for. You can consult with friends or specialists, and perhaps one of them will tell you that you can design a homemade trailer for a walk-behind tractor.
How to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor
First you need to sketch out a rough action plan, for example, this:
- Drawing up a project.
- Planning the operation of basic and additional mechanisms.
- Preparing a list of materials needed for assembly.
- Approximate cost estimate for the entire structure.
- Step by step assembly.
- Finishing.
Let's look at the action plan in more detail.
Drafting
You definitely need to make a plan, drawing or sketch of the future trailer. If it is difficult for you to do this yourself, it makes sense to contact a mechanical specialist who, with the help of your explanations, will help draw up a project.
They try to show more accurately in the drawings future design from different angles, draw nodes, mark everything required sizes. In the necessary places you can make callouts like “A - A”, “B - B” and draw these nodes large.
Operation of mechanisms
It’s better to think through everything to the smallest detail in advance:
- method of connecting non-separable units and parts: welding, riveting or screwing;
- connection of moving units: hinge, bushing, bearing, axle;
- nodes and their functioning;
- seat: simple or rotating;
- if the body is tipping, then you need a self-resetting unit with a special handle or a mechanical body tipper;
- stop-legs for parking (like on a scooter or moped);
- connection unit to the main walk-behind tractor: hinged, on bushings or on bearings;
- various additional components that depend on your vision of the trailer.
Preparing a Bill of Materials
Once you have decided on the mechanisms and their operation, make a list of materials. You can make a list of basic (obvious) materials based on what you have available, and find the rest as you build. And there is no need to try to do things “like your neighbor” if this entails unjustified costs.
If someone has a trailer made of profile pipes(square or rectangular section), and you only have “round” ones, then you don’t have to run headlong to the store to get a profile. Develop a design using your material.
Cost calculation
Based on the list of materials, calculations are made. All available products are removed from the list and counted approximate cost remaining materials based on the highest or average price. Then the cost of tools and various devices to facilitate assembly is calculated (for example, the cost of a welding machine). And if you have a welding machine, then the cost of electrodes or gas is calculated.
True, you can’t predict everything. For example, you decided to attach an old car seat to the structure, but it turned out that it was completely rusted. Therefore, you will have to choose something else. But if you find the missing elements cheaper, or even for free, then this will only make you happy and encourage you to make new improvements.
Homemade cart for walk-behind tractor
Step-by-step assembly and finishing are the most labor-intensive processes:
- it is necessary to select parts;
- remove rust;
- trim, if necessary, as indicated in the drawing;
- adjust them to each other;
- connect.
The work is completed by painting the product.
Main works
The simplest frame for your device can be built from just two pipes and wheels on bearings. The body is bolted to the frame. You can install a spring to soften shaking on bumps.
The cart for the walk-behind tractor is easier to assemble if you have a wheelbase from an old unnecessary car, scooter, or garden wheelbarrow. If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a ready-made wheelbase, you will have to make it yourself. At worst, an axle with wheels from a tractor or other agricultural machinery will do, but in some cases it will be necessary to reduce the spread of the wheels by cutting the axle and welding the hubs.
Trailer assembly
- An additional pipe serving as an axle, or a wheelbase assembly of some kind, is welded or otherwise attached to the main pipe. vehicle.
- On the other side, attach the hitch for the walk-behind tractor.
- Hubs are welded or mounted on the ends of the axle pipe.
- Secure the wheels with bolts or nuts.
- Attach a stop for parking.
- The body and wings are attached.
At the very end of the assembly, the seat is installed.
Body
The body is made of either wood or metal. Stiffening ribs can be installed on the sides and bottom. If the body is wooden, it makes sense to strengthen all the corners with metal inserts. The tailgate is made to open.
Wheel installation
One of the options for fastening the hub is to press it on. To do this, the rear part of the hub is bored and placed on a pipe or axle, trying to avoid distortion. The wheel is mounted on the pins and all the nuts are secured. Lastly, screw in the cap.
If you have selected ordinary wheels with an axle that does not rotate in a bearing, but in an ordinary bushing, for example, from a garden wheelbarrow, then it is advisable to make the mount differently.
- A corner is inserted into the frame cross member or a piece of pipe is welded to it.
- A hole is drilled in the lower part of the angle or pipe to secure the bushing or wheel axle.
Hitch
A lightweight version of the hitch for a walk-behind tractor can be made from several parts. If you have ordinary pipes and not profile ones, then the option will be exactly the same.
A walk-behind tractor is a pretty useful thing on the farm. It becomes an even greater help if it is equipped with a trailer in which you can transport various things, tools and materials. Some models of walk-behind tractors on the market do not meet the buyer's requirements. By purchasing such a powerful assistant, their owners plan in advance to begin manufacturing an additional towbar for the walk-behind tractor themselves.
This attachments significantly saves costs than buying a finished product. So, how to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands?
You can make a trailer yourself
Assembly
The process of assembling the structure is simple, and you can do it yourself, having at hand the tools and materials necessary for the work, as well as a little knowledge in plumbing. The work is carried out in the following order:
- Creation of working documentation (project) with installation diagrams of trailed equipment for a walk-behind tractor.
- Selection of material for the manufacture of the frame and other devices of the future design.
- Selecting the workplace where the trailer will be assembled.
- Performing preliminary marking of mounting elements and components of the trailer mechanism.
- Laying out finished parts and combining corners.
- Connection of elements of a mounted device.
In this video you will learn how to make a trailer yourself:
Required tools and materials
To ensure high-quality performance of trailer assembly work, prepare the following tools:
- apparatus for welding work;
- grinder for cutting material with a set of cutting wheels;
- tape measure and ruler, protractor and square;
- marking tools (chalk, ink, marker);
- impact tool (hammer), chisel and pliers;
- yew for fastening parts, clamps and clips;
- electric drill with a set of drills various diameters for metal work;
- equipment for installing rivets in the trailer body.
To make a trailer frame, use a square or rectangular metal profile, steel pipe small diameter, corners, channel. The trailer pallet is made of steel sheet up to 2 mm thick. Bolts, nuts and rivets are used to connect parts of the structure. Springs and a beam are added to the trailer to attach the wheelset. Car wheels from Moskvich or Zhiguli are suitable as wheels.
Don't forget about the appropriate trailer tool
Frame
It is made from square pipe, which is cut into separate sections. The pipe sections are welded together, forming a frame with cross members. Each angle is carefully measured. After the frame is ready, it is boiled around the perimeter again. Finished product primed and painted with paint and varnish material.
The trailer should not be overloaded, otherwise it will quickly become unusable. The service life of the entire structure depends on the quality of the frame element. Therefore, before starting work, you should determine what maximum load the tow hitch will carry and for what purposes it will be used.
There are three main trailer models:
- Easy. Designed for a load of no more than 70 kg. Typically this is a lightweight cart with one axle on which the driver's seat is mounted. A trailer for transporting goods is welded to the axle.
- Universal. It can transport small loads up to 120 kg over rough terrain. For greater strength, an I-beam is used as a material for making the frame.
- Heavy. These examples use a metal profile and elements of an automobile chassis with rubber running. Heavy trailer options are more reliable and durable, although a little more expensive than other designs.
Some craftsmen make tipper trailer for walk-behind tractor. In operation, it resembles the body of a dump truck, but to make such a structure with your own hands, you need to strictly adhere to all the dimensions of the drawing. There are no standard sizes for a trailer; the main thing is that it is not too wide and that it is convenient to maneuver while moving behind the walk-behind tractor.
Chassis
The design of the trailed part of the walk-behind tractor itself is not particularly difficult, but the chassis is a completely different matter. It is based on a beam, at the ends of which hubs are placed. The channel is welded together to form a square. The welding seam is continuous for structural strength. Hubs are welded to the bottom of the square (beam), trailer wheels are put on the walk-behind tractor and their parallelism is checked. If the condition is met, then the structure is welded correctly.
The beam and the trailer frame are connected using springs installed in special brackets on the frame, pre-provided in the diagram. The entire assembly of the towed part is checked for stability; it should not tip over.
Advice. In order for the transport to last a long time and not break down, it should be carried out periodically maintenance, which consists of daily cleaning after work and lubricating the joints.
Don't forget about the trailer chassis
Body frame trim
They are installed on the base (platform) of the trailer vertical racks, to which the sides are welded. It is worth noting that the front and side sides are made non-removable, and the rear side is fixed on hinges for further opening and closing if it becomes necessary to load various oversized cargo. Body elements are a frame structure, which is made up of metal corners. They are butt welded to each other and the seams are cleaned.
Stages of board assembly:
- the frames of each side are prepared separately;
- take a sheet of galvanized sheet and transfer the dimensions of the sides onto it;
- the side is cut to size.
A bottom made of 2 mm metal sheet, and is tacked by welding around the entire perimeter. The distance between the welding points is approximately 4-6 centimeters. The installation procedure begins with the front side, then the side ones, tightly connecting them to the front. The tailgate is secured to hinges mounted on the trailer frame.
Brakes
To ensure that the trailer does not accidentally roll on a slope and stands firmly on the road, a simple braking system is provided for it. How to make brakes on a trailer for a walk-behind tractor? It is best to use a parking structure from a car or motorcycle and secure the mechanism near the driver's seat with bolts.
As in any vehicle, the braking system is one of the factors of road safety. You can make your own brakes using a cable, rod and drum:
- A drum is attached to the hub of one of the wheels.
- They take brake disc and weld a small piece of pipe to it.
- Place the mechanism on the axle.
- The brake pads with a cable are secured to the axle, the cable is pulled to the lever near the driver’s seat.
Brakes are usually not installed on two wheels. One parking brake for a trailer attached to a walk-behind tractor is also sufficient.
Other details
In addition to the main driver's seat, a simple folding bench is installed, which is mounted on the front side of the body and rests on the side ones. Some trailers for walk-behind tractors are additionally equipped with a spare wheel. It can be placed on the side or bottom of the trailer on the metal bottom using special fasteners.
Near the driver’s seat, for the convenience of storing small tools that may be needed on the road and during repairs, small homemade metal boxes or special bags are secured.
Hitch
The drawbar is a system of welded pipes that are attached to the side members of the trailer. A coupling device is installed at the front where the pipes meet. The connection should be simple, strong and ensure easy rotation of the trailed trolley behind the walk-behind tractor. Often, for such a hitch, the standard mechanism of factory trailers to car towbars is used.
To hitch a walk-behind tractor trailer with your own hands, you need:
- At the junction of the drawbar pipes, a piece of forty pipe 10 centimeters long is welded.
- Two bearings are installed inside the pipe.
- A washer is installed on the pipe on the side of the towed cart, into which the threaded axle of the towed device will subsequently be inserted.
- The hitch is made from a piece of square pipe. A through hole with a diameter corresponding to the fixing pin is drilled through two opposite surfaces.
- The square pipe can be further reinforced with a sheet of metal; the edges of the pipe are bent.
This system reliably ensures structural stability and ease of control. Using a hitch, the walk-behind tractor trolley can be adapted as a passenger car trailer.
Do I need a license for a walk-behind tractor with a trailer?
There are many auxiliary jobs that use walk-behind tractors. And today, nowhere in official documents is it stated that operating walk-behind tractors requires rights. According to the law, walk-behind tractors do not belong to vehicles that, like other categories, participate in road traffic. Therefore, you can safely travel to fields and country roads that are not controlled by the traffic police.
When driving on roads public use It is necessary to take into account that this vehicle does not have the right to move along them. This should be clearly stated in the data sheet for the walk-behind tractor. However, there are times when you have to cross such road sections. If you get caught in a traffic police inspection vehicle, you can get some pretty unpleasant consequences. The inspector can check any equipment located on a public road, and has the right to issue a fine for such driving, because a walk-behind tractor is classified as equipment, even for cultivating land.Also, the driver of a walk-behind tractor must know the rules of the road, even if he does not have a driving license. Therefore, the traffic inspector has the right to require at least one open category for using a vehicle in order to ensure knowledge of the basics of traffic, but this only applies to public roads.
It turns out that you don’t need a license for a walk-behind tractor; at the same time, you need a document that confirms your knowledge of the rules of behavior and traffic on the road.
Advice. To avoid any problems with the traffic inspector, the owner of the walk-behind tractor must know the rules of the road, have at least an open category A, and do not forget his license when it is necessary to go on the road.
For drivers homemade walk-behind tractors It is not at all recommended to drive from trailers onto the roads, so as not to catch the eye of the traffic police. Otherwise, it threatens with a large fine.Designing a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands according to the drawings and dimensions is not very difficult. The main thing is to have the desire and be able to handle the tool. On our website you can select a diagram and view photos taken by trailer owners. Having such an assistant on your farm, you can get the job done several times faster and get great pleasure from it.
With the purchase of a walk-behind tractor, the need arose for a cargo trailer for it for garbage removal, delivery of firewood, building materials and other household needs. Having looked at the factory-made carts in the store and listened to the reviews of the owners, I realized that for a decent price, manufacturers offer, to put it mildly, products of very low quality. The main complaints were about the flimsiness of the entire structure, the weak, often breaking towbar and rather weak brakes and wheels. There were also complaints about peeling paint and rust after the first year of operation. It was decided to make the trailer myself, for the Salyut 100 walk-behind tractor.
Wheels - choosing the right ones
The first step was to choose wheels for the trailer. At first I wanted to use the rear beam assembly with wheels from a VAZ 2109, but after assessing its considerable weight and the dimensions of the future trailer, I changed my mind. For my Salyut 100 such a trailer would be too heavy. There was nothing for sale in the stores other than wheels for garden wheelbarrows. The only suitable wheels that could easily withstand the load were the wheels from the little Oka VAZ-2111.
To begin with, I bought two used wheels with good summer tires. For brakes, it was decided to use assembled rear brake mechanisms from Oka, which I purchased along with rear axles and brake drums, which were also used. I bought two new handbrake cables, also from Oka, at a car store.
Body and frame
The body and all other structural elements are made of profile pipes, which were purchased at the nearest construction market. First, I made two side sides of the body from a pipe with a cross-section of 20x30 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm.
Drawing of the side and rear side of the trailer
Two pipes 120 cm long and two pipes 31 cm long. I cut the ends of the pipes with a grinder, as shown in the diagram above, at 45 degrees, and placed them on the sheet furniture chipboard I made tacks by welding (with a triple electrode) in several places. I checked the squareness of the connection with a regular construction square. After checking their straightness, I finally welded the resulting workpieces, and to prevent them from moving during the welding process, I pressed them with clamps.
I sanded the welding seams with the same grinder. For convenience, I used an angle grinder with a disk with a diameter of 125mm.
Then from the same pipe (20x30mm) I cut five pieces exactly 1 meter long. These are blanks for the bottom and front side of the cart. I welded them between the two side boards, first also lightly grabbing them with welding, pressing them against the chipboard sheet. Right angles were also controlled with the same construction square. I placed the two central pipes, indicated in the figure by red arrows under numbers 3 and 4, not vertically like the others, but horizontally and made spacers (1 and 2) and aligned them with the lower plane of the bottom. I also made spacers from the same pipes on the side and front sides.
To secure the bottom, I welded it in the corners of the body and in the center of the pipe cuttings, they can be seen in the photo. The rear board was made similarly to the side boards from the same 20x30mm pipes, only its dimensions were taken locally, it turned out to be 990x270mm.
The rear side of the trailer is attached to ordinary door hinges and closed with latches; for safety, reflective stickers are glued to it, which are clearly visible at night. For convenience, the side is made removable, allowing you to quickly unload the cargo being transported.
On the side and front sides I welded pieces of 25x40mm pipe for the racks of additional wooden sides (see photo below).
I did not increase the length of the body, since when it is raised the angle will be too small and the contents will not fall out of it. The body frame is ready, let's move on to the trailer frame.
Frame
The beam was made from prof. pipes 50x50mm long 1180mm, welding pieces of the same pipe 155mm long at 45 degrees, as shown in the figure. Then I welded two pieces of 32 mm angle on the sides, parallel to the plane of the cut pipes. The trailer axles are attached to these corners using bolts.
This design is due to the fact that turning work is not available to me. Subject to availability lathe you can significantly simplify the design by turning necessary preparations to attach the axles and simply weld them to the trailer beam.
Next I made the trailer drawbar. It requires two profile pipes 25x50mm and 1.85 meters long each. I welded these pipes to the beam, creating a triangular structure; to strengthen it, I welded 4mm thick metal gussets in the corners next to the beam, and welded an 8mm thick plate in front under the towbar. In order for the trailer to become a dump trailer, store-bought door hinges were welded to the beam and bottom struts (they are shown in the photo by arrows 1 and 2).
The body is secured with a regular door latch welded to the spacer between the drawbar pipes (see photo below).
The latch is inserted into a piece of pipe and welded, so it holds quite firmly. It opens with a lever on the tool box, connected to the latch with ordinary wire.
Seat - tool box
All metal parts painted with black primer-enamel to prevent rust, and the body and toolbox are sheathed with galvanized iron roofing, which is mounted on ordinary blind rivets. The frame of the tool box is welded from a 20 mm angle and has dimensions: L 70 x W 34 x H 30 cm. The seat is made of a piece of chipboard and foam rubber, covered with dermantine. There is a lock embedded on the side (see photo).
The dimensions of this box were not chosen by chance, because there is a need to transport a chainsaw, an ax and a can of gasoline. And as it turned out later, the long seat is more comfortable when turning. The bottom of the trailer was made from two scraps of waterproof OSB 12mm thick. Subsequently, I will screw a sheet of galvanized roofing on top.
Brake system
The brake system is standard from Oka. The parking brake drive is used. The brake pedal is welded from 6mm metal. It is fixed on a footrest (30x60cm), this plate was found in a landfill. Two corners of 32 mm and a length of 37 cm are welded under it. A pedal is attached to them in front, and a plate with two holes for the brake cables at the back. The ends of the cables are screwed using special clamps to a T-shaped plate, from which there is a pull to the brake pedal. There is nothing complicated in the design of the brakes, I think everything will be clear from the photographs.
Hitch
As a hitch for the device, I made and used a trailer unit (PIR) for the MB from Yuri Rybalchenko. For which I thank him very much! His device can be easily found on the Internet by typing the highlighted phrase in a search engine. To prevent the towbar of the walk-behind tractor from breaking when towing a trailer, I made an intermediate bracket by bolting it with a ready-made (red photo in the photo) bracket from the hitch for attachments.
We also had to make a homemade trailer pin from a suitable metal rod.
To summarize, I can say that the design of the trailer turned out to be quite durable and comfortable. Having been using it for almost three months, I have not identified any shortcomings. In no way inferior to factory-made trailers, the price was almost three times cheaper, since I bought used spare parts. It took about two weeks to build and find spare parts. Well, since this is my first experience as a welder, I ask you not to judge strictly. I will be glad if my design turns out to be useful to someone.
- We express our gratitude to the user for the informative and useful material.
It is difficult to imagine an avid gardener without a walk-behind tractor on the farm. This is an irreplaceable thing, which, first of all, is necessary when plowing the land on garden plot. But the functions of a mini-tractor can be expanded by attaching a wheelbarrow/trailer to it. Of course, it’s easy to buy a cart for a walk-behind tractor in a specialized store, but a real man can easily make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor on his own.
Trolley variations
Trolley variations this species equipment directly depends on the ability to transport a certain cargo.
- A simple single-axle trolley. Maximum lifting weight up to 70 kg. Its design will be simple and inexpensive.
- Cart for walk-behind tractor with load capacity up to 110-120 kg. The most versatile option for use on the farm.
- Trailer for transporting heavy loads weighing more than 120 kg. The design becomes more complicated, and the cost of material for the frame and cladding increases. This option is more expensive, but the capabilities of the trolley increase significantly.
Self-assembly of a walk-behind trailer - it couldn’t be easier
How to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands? The main thing you need to save wasted effort and avoid unwanted mistakes is the correct trailer drawings for the walk-behind tractor and diagrams.
Having selected accurate drawings with your own hands and the dimensions of the planned trailer, you need to calculate all the nuances during manufacturing.
- Consider what the cart is being made to transport: whether it will be a small-sized, light load or, most likely, a heavy one. Based on this, choose a material based on strength for the frame and skin of the trailer.
- If the trailer is a tipper, two-axle, with a large load capacity, then there is a need to equip it with a hydraulic drive. This is necessary for easy capsizing.
- For a model with one axis (single-axis), a manual type device is sufficient.
- For safety, a cart with a load capacity of more than 350 kg must be equipped with a homemade mechanical brake. When the walk-behind tractor with the trolley is sufficiently loaded, it will be impossible to stop it when going down the hill. But since it is quite difficult to make brakes on a trailer for a walk-behind tractor yourself, therefore the best option there will be help from a qualified person.
The first stage is preparing the necessary parts and tools
In general, this is the usual combination of body, frame, wheels and hitch. To install a homemade trailer to a walk-behind tractor, you need to purchase (or perhaps you already have them on the farm) the following parts:
- pipes with a diameter of 60x30 mm and 25x25 mm, usually they must be iron for the reliability of the future product;
- two wheels, perhaps you have old unnecessary ones from Moskvich lying around, as well as springs;
- duralumin sheets, their thickness should be about 2 mm;
- steel sheets, their thickness should be about 0.8 mm;
- channel No. 5;
- fasteners.
Of course, when mounting a walk-behind tractor trolley, you cannot do without necessary tools: grinders for cutting parts, electric jigsaw, screwdriver and welding.
Frame for walk-behind cart
To make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands reliable and durable, you need a very strong frame. When producing a grid for the frame, a 60x30 mm pipe is suitable; the cross-section should be square (rectangle) and a corner for the connection 25x25 mm. In order to make a lattice frame, all the parts need to be connected with 5 additional crossbars.
At the corners of the frame grille, 4 vertical posts are attached to the longitudinal pipes using a welding machine. If the wheelbarrow for the walk-behind tractor has a folding side, then the frames must be produced separately and only then installed.
Frame covering options
To cover the structure, craftsmen choose inexpensive material or the one that is in stock. The price of the product becomes much lower.
- Wooden planks that are often left behind after construction. The main advantages are low-cost, the disadvantages are moisture-resistant, and as a result, the low life expectancy of a wheelbarrow for a walk-behind tractor. In addition, additional funds are needed to process them.
- Plastic. Pros: resistant to moisture, unlike wood; cons: not strong; if damaged, it will break.
- Sheets of metal. Pros - durable material, therefore durable, cons - one of the most expensive options.
But if the cart for the walk-behind tractor will be used constantly, then it is more profitable to make it metal and not waste extra funds for repairs. The sheets can be secured to the frame using a welding machine.
We manufacture the chassis
To carry cargo, a trailer needs wheel assemblies that can be removed from the unwanted vehicle. To attach the wheel units, it is necessary to weld an additional pipe. The trailer hub is attached using the press-on method. The rear part is put on the axle, which is machined beforehand. There should be no distortion, so it must be constantly monitored. The mounted wheels must be secured with nuts and finally put on the caps.
Motoblock trailer hitch
Motoblock trailer hitch - enough important element the entire structure. The best option is a knot, when a pipe is connected to another pipe. Another small part of the pipe needs to be welded into the curved pipe on one side. This must be done in a vertical position. The same operation is performed on the other edge of the main pipe. Finally, a kingpin is installed to connect to the trailer. When turning or on uneven roads, this design will provide strong traction.
How to avoid mistakes when making a trolley for a walk-behind tractor?
If a walk-behind trailer is being manufactured for the first time, then errors occur even among the best master. The main ones:
- incorrectly selected seat. It should be convenient, because you often have to do housework. The best lava seats;
- To save money, they do not install brakes. Do not skimp on your own safety under any circumstances. Homemade hand brakes are better than nothing;
- poor quality and cheap cladding. And again for the sake of budget option, but remember - the miser pays twice.
Many owners of country houses and garden plots, country houses They use the walk-behind tractor not only as a device for plowing the garden, but also as a means of transportation. To do this, they need to make or purchase a trailer for the walk-behind tractor. Its design is quite simple and understandable, and to carry out the work you will need tools available to everyone and the ability to make seams with a welding machine.
Stores sell several varieties of ready-made cargo adapters for walk-behind tractors, which are selected based on the power of their power units. The following classification will help you choose the right trailer dimensions for making your own:
- If your device has a power of up to 4.8 horsepower, then it can only be used with a trailer with a load capacity of up to 300 kilograms. It usually has compact body dimensions - length up to 1.15 meters and width up to 100 centimeters;
- With an average walk-behind tractor power of 4.8 to 8 liters. With. adapters can be used with bodies of the following sizes: 1x1.5 or 1.1x1.4 meters and with a load capacity of 300 to 500 kilograms;
- Heavy units can be used with carts that have one or two axles. The width of their body rarely exceeds 1.2 meters, and its length can reach 3 meters. The load capacity can reach a ton and always exceeds 500 kilograms.
The body guard in most trailers for walk-behind tractors is made standard: 30-35 millimeters. For heavy devices, the height of the sides can reach 60 centimeters.
Making a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands is not so difficult, but extremely profitable. You can add to the design those elements that you need. For example, make the driver's seat with special box for small things. In addition, the dimensions and number of axles can be adapted to suit your needs.
Important! The easiest way is to make designs for light models of autoplows with your own hands.
If the adapter's load capacity is above 350 kilograms, then it must have a special brake that helps if necessary to stop the device on a slope.
Features of different body designs
A homemade trailer for a walk-behind tractor can have one of the body types: one-piece, tipper with folding sides. It is most convenient to have an option that works on the principle of a dump truck. IN ready-made models they are usually equipped with a hydraulic drive, the presence of which increases the price of the device. It is difficult to assemble high-quality hydraulics on your own.
The body can tip in one of two directions: sideways or backwards. The device can be equipped with manual device for tipping the trolley. In this case, the difficulty will be that the center of gravity of the body must be shifted. If this condition is not met, then it will be impossible to overturn a fully loaded trailer alone.
If you use equipment only for delivering seed material to the planting site and for transporting the crop after harvesting, we recommend making simple options with one or two folding sides. The tipper design will not recoup the costs if used rarely cash and strength. If you transport various loads with your walk-behind tractor almost every week, then you can consider the option with hydraulic system trolley overturning.
Preparation of the drawing
Before you make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, make drawings. On the first, the structure should be depicted as a whole, and the remaining images should be devoted to individual parts: frame, wheel axle, drawbar.
The easiest way to do this work is for those owners of a walk-behind tractor who have a tractor. Trailers for these types of agricultural machinery are practically no different from each other. The only difference is that for walk-behind tractors it is more profitable to use a carrier designed on the “pipe-in-pipe” principle.
With this type of trailer arrangement, the carrier is connected at one end to the trailer module (a console with a rotating unit is used for this), and the other is inserted into central pipe frames A trailer made using this principle is safer. On uneven roads, the wheels of the trolley will move independently of those installed on the power unit. This not only reduces the possibility of an accident, but also protects your trailer from gradual deformation.
When making the drawing, pay attention to the center of gravity - it should be closer to the driver’s seat, but not located between him and the wheelbase. In this case, the structure will remain balanced even at maximum load.
Making a trailer frame
For this work you will need to have an angle grinder, welding machine, drill and bolts. A frame is assembled from pipes with square section(size 2.5x2.5 centimeters for cross members at the rear and front, and for spars - 6x3), metal corners. The frame design should resemble a lattice. In addition to the main elements, 5 crossbars and 4 vertical posts located in the corners are installed on it. The elements are best connected to each other by welding.
After completing the work, it is worth covering the structure with an anti-corrosion compound.
If you decide to use a folding side in the cart, then make a frame of a movable structure from thin pipes. Thanks to this, it will receive the necessary rigidity, and when you finally attach the trailer to the walk-behind tractor, it will be easier for you to install movable hinges - just weld them to two frames (large and small).
In a simple model, it is necessary to connect the vertical posts to each other with pipes the same size as the crossbars. In this case, the frame is simply sheathed without installing hinges and other additional elements.
Any model can be supplemented with the installation of a driver's seat. The frame for it is welded onto the main frame and most often consists of three small tubes. The simplest is a shelf-like seat. Under it you can build a box for tools or small items. If you want to have more convenient design, then install after final assembly The trailer has a seat on it, borrowed from an old car.
How to sheathe the frame?
To finish with the main part of the body, it is necessary to make its lining. For this you can use:
- metal sheets;
- tree;
- plastic.
Metal is the most resistant to mechanical damage. The floor is made of stronger metal, and a thinner one can be used for the side posts. The ideal choice is to use NS grade corrugated sheets, the same ones used for sheathing load-bearing walls. If you want to have the most robust construction, then to make the frame take roofing option. The casing sits on bolts and nuts. Welding can be used if you are using regular metal plates. They must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.
Metal is the most expensive, but at the same time durable material. It should be used for heavy-duty trailers and tipper models.
Wood impregnated with waste oil or a special compound that prevents it from deteriorating is the most affordable option for plating. For example, you can use remnants of boards that were used to construct outbuildings. Wood paneling It is attached with bolts and nuts and can be replaced if necessary.
The plastic is corrosion resistant and does not need to be painted. Its only disadvantage is that it is quite fragile material, and you will not be able to use a trailer early spring And late autumn. At low temperatures the strength of the plastic is significantly reduced.
Important! The construction of the skin always begins from the floor of the body.
If you are making folding fences, then each of them is sheathed separately, and then the finished frames are installed on the main frame using hinges.
You can fix the sides in a raised state using latches. Due to its characteristics folding structures cannot be installed on a body covered with plastic.
Chassis design
Wheels for the chassis of a walk-behind tractor trailer are often borrowed from old motor vehicles, cars or garden wheelbarrows. In the latter case, the carrying capacity finished design won't be too big. To secure the chassis, an additional axle must be welded to the body. There are two options for attaching wheels to a trailer:
- The hub is bored and secured to the additional axle using the pressing method. When installing it on the pipe, be careful: there should be no distortions. The wheels are seated on the pins and finally secured in place with their nuts. To make the towbar for a walk-behind tractor look complete, the wheels are covered with caps.
- If you borrowed wheels from a garden wheelbarrow, then to attach them to the axle you need to use an adapter shaped like the letter “L”. At one end it is fixed to the axis using bolted connection, and the axis passes through the second. In most cases, users use part of the axle of the finished car, cutting it off with a grinder. This is a very simple way to assemble a garden wheelbarrow, since it does not require you to mount the wheel axles yourself.
Important! The wheels should not protrude too much beyond the body. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to drive the trailer.
At the final stage of work, it is necessary to weld the device that will connect the trailer and walk-behind tractor. To do this, take a curved pipe, which, with the knee up, is welded with the short end to a section of the axle leading to the walk-behind tractor. A short pipe is connected to the power unit using a kingpin. To the main site curved pipe(its length should be about 50 centimeters), another section is welded with a kingpin leading to the trailer.
The second connection option is through hinges. In this case, the curved part is excluded from the design.
Making a towbar for a walk-behind tractor yourself is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The most critical stage of the work is the manufacture of the chassis and connecting element. Subject to availability necessary materials at hand and minimum set Using tools, you can make a trailer in one day.
