≡× MENU

• Interior
• Windows
• Walls
• Projects
• Buildings

How to properly assemble a wardrobe. Stages of creating a sliding wardrobe with your own hands How to assemble a sliding wardrobe while standing

One day I received a question about the live chat - “Tell me where on your website I can read the article - . I’m from Volgograd and I want to assemble the frame myself.”

We didn’t have a clear article of similar content, so I decided to write it.

I want to say right away that the fastening methods and assembly procedure differ from different manufacturers. The design of the cabinet may also vary.

You will need metal or plastic corners to assemble furniture.

Self-tapping screws from 16 to 51 mm long. If you are interested in how to assemble a wardrobe, then you have an idea of ​​the necessary tools and there is no need to explain what a screwdriver and a measuring angle are.

Let's consider assembly on a real order. Sliding wardrobe with the following dimensions: 2480x600x2297.

We start building the frame cabinet on the left or right side, as is convenient for you. I started with the left section.

We look carefully at the drawing, in the lower left corner. The internal width of the left section is 500mm. The lower shelf is 350mm high, with 2 drawers above it.

We take the left outer side panel with a length of 2297 mm. and a stand that forms the left column.

We set aside a distance of 350mm on the left sidewall, first taking into account that the stand will stand on the floor of the room, therefore we add 16mm. (chipboard thickness).

We mark the thickness of 16mm on the sidewall with a pencil. for a shelf under the drawers. We fasten the additional sides of the drawers (with 25mm self-tapping screws) in order to screw the drawer guides to them in the future.

Similarly, we mark the rack of the left section.

It should look like this.

We secured the side panel to the cabinet floor using 51mm long self-tapping screws. The stand was secured to the floor using metal corners.

The shelf under the future drawers on the right side was screwed with 51mm self-tapping screws. On the left side, the shelf was also secured with self-tapping screws, but not through the sides, but into the end of the sidewalls of the drawers. To make it easier to screw in long screws V hard to reach places, I advise you to have a long bit for the screwdriver.

We secure the resulting section with the top shelf of the drawers. We fasten it using corners so that the screw heads are not visible on the face of the shelf.

So, the foundation is laid, it’s better to finish the left section temporarily. If it is completed to the end, it may simply collapse due to careless movement.

Let's look at the drawing. Next comes a section 700mm wide, but it has a compartment for an ironing board. This means that it is necessary to set aside the top of the section for the ironing board in the left rack and drill holes for the shelf. And in the central section of the cabinet we screw metal corners according to the drawing. At the bottom 350mm, and at the top we set aside 499mm. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of 16mm chipboard.

We screw the small shelf from the ironing board section onto 51mm self-tapping screws. We place the middle rack of the cabinet and fasten it with the help of corners to the cabinet floor and install the top shelf.

We install the small section rack. We also attach it to the cabinet floor and top shelf using corners.

We install the bottom shelf on the corners.

Let's look at the drawing again. We attach the corners to the middle rack of the cabinet in advance.

Similarly, switch to the right column of the wardrobe. We mark the right sidewall and the post of the right section in the same way as we did with the left column. We fasten the small sides of the drawers with 25mm self-tapping screws.

Using corners, we attach the remaining shelves. We install clothes hangers.

The frame is almost ready. All that remains is to secure the cabinet roof and nail the HDF back wall.

We attach the roof to the corners, and the HDF to the studs using a staple gun. First, do not forget to make marks with a pencil on the chipboard where you have the middle of the shelves and cabinet racks. Otherwise, you will have to use a tape measure to measure each section and each compartment in order to transfer this measurement to the back wall of the cabinet. Take care of this in advance.

There is one important point regarding fastening the back wall of the wardrobe. Start nailing it from the top, and then go along the sidewall from top to bottom, first aligning the edges of the HDF with the sidewall. Remember that due to the unevenness of the floor, your frame will probably be curved, and with the back wall you level the structure and give it rigidity. If you nail the back wall any way you can, the frame will probably be bent. When you install the compartment doors, you will have to tinker to adjust them, removing the gaps due to the curvature of the cabinet. Then you will have gaps at the bottom of the doors, and no one wants that.

The back wall of this cabinet consisted of two parts. The joint was made along the central pillar, nothing was noticeable from the face. You can use special connectors that are sold in furniture fittings stores, but if everything is calculated correctly, they are not needed.

So the frame is ready.

All that remains is to assemble the drawers and install them.

We assemble the frame using 51mm self-tapping screws. I am not distracted by such trifles as the mandatory drilling of holes into the end of the chipboard in order to prevent the slab structure from breaking. I think that you know about such things.

When the drawers are assembled, you need to install the guides on which they will slide out. We use full extension slides on bearings. We do not accept roller guides.

Three screws 16mm long are enough. on each side.

Before screwing the guide, make sure that the counter part that will be attached to the sides of the cabinet does not rest against the front of the drawer. Otherwise the box will not close.

So, you've collected the boxes. All that remains is to install them and secure the facades with handles.

Remove the counter parts of the guides.

In the section of the cabinet where the drawers should go, we add about 5-10mm of thickness under the guides. We love using construction pencils.

Screw the counter parts of the guides with sixteenth self-tapping screws with a small head. Three pieces are enough, you can screw in more.

Take the front of the drawer, place it on the bottom shelf and draw 10mm on top. This will be the bottom of the next drawer.

It should turn out like this.

We install boxes.

Now you need to secure the facades.

I advise you to immediately install the handles on the front panel, it is more convenient to handle during installation.

Apply the lower façade. Place something 3mm high. We use drills for this. The facade is glued to the box with double-sided tape. There should be enough adhesive tape so that you can pull the drawer towards you while holding the front handle, but at the same time, if you glued the panel crookedly, you can tear it off and re-glue it.

The next facade is attached in a similar way, also providing a gap between the facades.

Secure the facades with 25mm long self-tapping screws from the inside of the drawer into the laminated chipboard body. I recommend 4 or 5 pieces for strength.

It should look like in the photo.

All that remains is to install the compartment doors.

Attach the top rail to the cabinet roof with 16mm self-tapping screws. Do the same with the bottom guide, do not forget to immediately install the positioners for the door wheels.

That's it. The cabinet is ready.

Of course, for a person who is taking up a screwdriver for the first time, this article will be of little help, but for someone who has an idea about furniture, they will be able to assemble a wardrobe. There is nothing complicated here. The only thing is that there are nuances that I missed, otherwise the article would be simply huge.

Just don’t expect to be able to assemble a wardrobe with just a screwdriver. Needed various instrument, starting from a screwdriver and ending with a sanding machine. Because sometimes it is necessary to adjust the upper and lower guides to the size, or to shorten the shelf. All sorts of situations happen.

And of course, the basis is a competent drawing and exact dimensions of the parts. If something is different, it will be extremely difficult to assemble what you intended.

I wish you success and assure you that it is possible to assemble a wardrobe yourself, just as it is possible to change the spark plugs in your car or the oil yourself. The only question is: do you need it?

If you assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, you can save a significant amount of money. family budget. It’s great if the owner already has basic skills in working with furniture, but even beginners today will learn how to make a wardrobe with their own hands, even if at first glance the task seems extremely difficult. Described by us step-by-step master class, as well as drawings and photos of each stage will allow you to quickly and efficiently carry out installation.

What materials and tools are needed for assembly?

Today, the leading place among storage products is occupied by the wardrobe. It has a lot of functions, in addition, a wide range of models and sizes. The main advantage of sliding wardrobes is that they do not “eat up” additional space for opening doors. That is why, in the conditions of small-sized “Stalin” and “Khrushchev” buildings, when choosing between a wardrobe and a compartment, preference is given to the latter option.

Assembling a wardrobe at home does not seem like a hopeless task. To do this, you just need to have tools, material, and also become familiar with the technology.

Often, when you buy a product without paying for assembly services, the manufacturing company must include drawings of the product and a photo of it with the product. finished form. In addition, the accompanying documents list all the parts of the kit, which are numbered in order. Just by looking at the drawing, you can assemble the furniture step by step according to intuition.

In order to begin the assembly process, you should prepare the following tools:

• building level(with its help, the evenness of the frame relative to the floor and walls is checked);
• corner;
• regular and rubber hammer;
• Phillips and straight screwdriver;
• measuring tape;
• ruler and pencil;
• screwdriver;
• metal drill - to install an aluminum base;
• wood drill.

You may also need a drill, jigsaw and sandpaper.

Important! Before starting work, be sure to check that the goods delivered to you are complete and that the proposed parts comply with the assembly diagram. Pay special attention to the fittings. This means that if the assembly diagram specifies the presence of drawers, then the kit must include ball guides.

Step-by-step assembly of a sliding wardrobe

Before you begin, you need to familiarize yourself with the stages of work to be performed. Almost all coupes are assembled according to this algorithm:

• base;
• frame;
• back wall;
• shelves and guides;
• compartment doors.

Only after passing through all stages is the implementation of all internal elements. These include retractable baskets, rods, drawers, pantographs and hooks. For your attention step by step instructions passing each stage.

Base installation

The assembly of all types of coupes begins from the very bottom, which will subsequently bear the entire load of the structure. Find the required part included and place it in front of you. Take screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a tape measure and a marking pencil. Check that the screws and special plastic masking plugs are in place. The assembly proceeds according to the following algorithm:

• On the part intended for the bottom, mark the place for installing the base.
• You can use adjustable legs instead of plinth strips, but the location for them should also be noted.

• Drill a hole for the fastener.
• Attach the bottom with confirmations (corners) to the slats using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
• Assemble cross supports for the plinth, which are designed for greater stability.
• Note that some furniture options, for example, the Phoenix model, require adjustable legs. This is implemented simply: the plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into specially drilled holes in the bottom with a diameter of 10 mm.

Housing assembly

Study the diagram carefully, as future assembly of the case will ensure safe operation closet The stability of all internal elements depends on how well and reliably it is installed.

Important! In order for the cabinet assembly to be accurate, you need to check in detail the evenness of the floor surface in the place where the furniture will be located. To do this, use a building level. If during inspection you find differences, adjust the twisting legs.

Only then start assembling the box. Action plan:

• It is better to carry out the entire assembly while standing, since it is almost impossible to install a perfectly fitted cabinet in a lying position. But it is important to remember that for final assembly you need to leave at least 100 mm to install the roof.
• In those parts intended for the bottom, drill several holes and insert anchors. Rack strips will subsequently be mounted on these fasteners.
• Installation of stand panels must be carried out by two people. The left side is inserted first, and while one of the partners holds it, the second one inserts the right side.
• Then the middle post is installed, if it is provided for in the drawing, and the last one. The roof is being installed behind it. If you are assembling the product in a standing position, then it is better to secure the roof by placing it on confirmations or corners.
• Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobes like maestro are much more difficult to assemble. It is better to work with them in a group of 3-4 people strictly according to the instructions.

Rear wall installation

In order to attach the back wall, you need to correctly select consumables and fasteners. Often, assemblers choose the wrong fasteners, so over time, the back sheet of fiberboard comes away from the frame.

Interesting! During times Soviet Union Fastening was carried out using nails, but this is not advisable.

Follow the following algorithm of actions:

1. Place a sheet of hardboard behind the cabinet.
2. Holding it with your hands, take short screws and use a screwdriver to screw them in every 10-20 cm around the perimeter. If the cabinet model has several elements that make up the back wall, then fasten them end-to-end using special furniture fasteners.

How to Install Shelves and Rails

So that over time you don’t have to disassemble the furniture and redo all the work from the very beginning, make sure that the frame is stable and reliable, then proceed to filling the insides with various functional elements: rods, shelves, drawers and guides.

Important! Before starting installation, make sure you have all the necessary fittings.

First of all, pay attention to the following nuances:

• The shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners. For this purpose, the parts already have drilled holes. Mark the distance between the shelves and attach them to the sides and the stand bar in the center.

• DIY wardrobe doors are fastened quickly and easily. First, install the upper door rails, then the lower rails. We emphasize that the installation of these elements is carried out strictly along an ideal straight line. This directly determines whether the doors will move easily during operation.
• A clothes rail is installed on special flanges. Usually they come included. If necessary, the excess pipe is sawed off with a hacksaw.
• Fasten the mechanisms for the operation of the retractable elements, place them in place.

Final installation of doors

To sliding wardrobe The coupe was ready for use with my own hands; it was necessary to mount the doors.

Important! A sliding wardrobe is considered correctly assembled if the upper rails are attached at the same level with the front edge of the sides, and the lower roller blinds deviate from them by 1-15 mm.

• The part of the doors that will move along the rear rail is installed first. Install it with a roller into the lower groove, and then into the upper one.
• Repeat the manipulations with the second part.

Remember! Carry out all work carefully if you have the kit glass door. This part of the sliding wardrobe is one of the most expensive, so make sure that it does not break or fall out due to inept installation.

• The final step is to install stoppers for the doors that will prevent them from jumping off the fashionable sliding system.

Important! Do-it-yourself corner wardrobes are mounted according to the same scheme. The only difference corner model is that in this case different types of doors can be used: compartment, standard or screen-type. The latter are used to equip the corner part of the structure. Such furniture can be placed in the hallway or small living room, saving space and using the available space as efficiently as possible.

As you can see, assemble it yourself fashionable wardrobe the coupe is quite simple. A minimum of tools, care and precision in following instructions are required. Have you had experience making similar structures? Write in the comments.

Video: Instructions for assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands

The wardrobe is one of the most functional pieces of furniture. It can be used not only to store personal items, but also as an element, allowing you to hide visually “unfavorable” interior details present in any living space.

Tools: Drill (screwdriver), caliper, awl, screwdriver, Forstner drill (35 mm), pencil, set of wood drills
Consumables: Dowels, euroscrews, PVA glue, silicone adhesive sealant

Next, we will look at the process of self-assembling a small hanging cabinet, which is used to “aesthetically transform” the distribution box - functional, but not very elegant in appearance.

IMPORTANT: Using this method, you can achieve the best result if the door (facade) of the cabinet is made in the same color or style as the facades furniture sets hallway, kitchen, or living room.

Taking measurements

The first step is to take measurements. Using , determine exact values width and height of the distribution box.

Creating a sketch and diagram of the cabinet

Before making an exact diagram of the future cabinet, it is recommended to draw a simplified sketch of it by hand. This will help you determine the optimal configuration of elements and their location. It is better to make several sketches, and then choose the most suitable one.

Determine the number and location of shelves, the direction the door opens, and the location of fastening (corner elements are best fixed on both sides of the corner - that is, on two adjacent walls). In order to correctly determine the height of the shelves, imagine what items will be placed on them. If these are toiletries (bottles, cans, vials, etc.) - make the height of the shelves correspond to the longest of the intended items (Fig. 1). Determine how much the dimensions of your cabinet will exceed the dimensions of the distribution box - it is advisable to make the width of the cabinet a little larger for ease of fastening the hinges.

After the approximate sketch of the cabinet is ready, make a more accurate one assembly diagram, using the box dimensions determined earlier (Fig. 2). Such a diagram can be created using one of the many free design programs, in any graphics editor, or simply by drawing it by hand. When drawing up a diagram, do not forget to correctly design the places of the ties, determine which element will be located at the end and which plane.

Don't forget about the fasteners. It is extremely undesirable to place fastener caps on the front side of the product, even if decorated afterwards with plugs. for fastening elements from the front side it is recommended to use furniture dowels(spikes). In invisible places, you can use ordinary furniture corners, confirmats (euro screws) or classic self-tapping screws.

Cutting the material

The material for the cabinet is chipboard. It is the most accessible, easy to process and quite durable. You can purchase ready-made panels and cut them yourself using, miter saw or a regular hacksaw. However, it is much more convenient to have all the elements cut by professionals. The cut edges will be smoother and more aesthetically pleasing, and you will not have to laminate the ends yourself, which is also quite difficult to do without equipment and certain skills.

Based on the diagram you completed earlier, create an order sheet (Fig. 3), indicating the size and required quantity each element, as well as the place of lamination (front sides). And, of course, do not forget to determine the color of your future cabinet.

Preparing cabinet elements for assembly

Making holes for tie rods

In our example, the elements are tied together using dowels (on the front side) and euroscrews on the opposite (support) side. The holes for fastenings, in turn, are located on the internal planes of the side walls and the ends of the ceilings (Fig. 1).

In order for the marking to be accurate, axial lines should be drawn on which the centers of future holes will be. Set the caliper to a size that corresponds to half the thickness of the sheet. As a rule, in the production of furniture, chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16 mm are used, so in our example, the size should be set to 8 mm on the scale.

IMPORTANT: To make markings on laminated chipboard (especially on light-colored surfaces), a simple pencil is best suited. It is chemically inert and can be easily removed from elements using a regular eraser.

Place the tool against the end edge of the element and mark the distance to the central axis. Do the same on the opposite edge of the end. Then draw a center line along the marked points.

Using a caliper, mark the same distance (8 mm) on the plane of the element on both sides. Use a ruler or draw a center line along the marks you made.

Center lines must be applied to all ends and edges of elements that will subsequently be tightened with fasteners.

After all the axes are drawn, mark the location of the mounting holes on each of them. To do this, set a size of 10-15 mm on the caliper, step back and mark this distance on the ends and planes of all elements.

IMPORTANT: The distance for all elements must be the same.

Using an awl, make shallow punctures at the marked points.

Using an electric drill or drill the mounting holes with a thin drill (2 mm) to a depth equal to half the length of the dowel or the length of the euro screw, reduced by the thickness of the chipboard (depending on what type of fastener is used for the screed). Try to hold the drill tightly, positioning the drill strictly perpendicular to the plane with the future hole.

IMPORTANT: To avoid making a mistake with the depth of the hole, use a strip masking tape or insulating tape, wrapping it around the drill at the required distance.

The full diameter of the holes is determined in accordance with the fasteners you use. In our example, the diameter of the dowels is 8 mm, the diameter of the Euroscrews is 6 mm, so for the final drilling of the holes, drills with a diameter of 8 and 6 mm are used, respectively. To work with confirmations, there are specialized drills that allow you to drill holes of a fixed depth in accordance with the diameter of the fastener. It is recommended to use such equipment for regular work.

Drill out the pilot holes to required diameter deepening them a little. It is enough to make the holes 1-2 mm deeper - this way you can tighten the elements better. A slight increase in depth is also necessary when using adhesive composition as an additional fixing factor.

When using Euroscrews to tighten, it is necessary to make through holes on the surface of one of the mating elements (in our example, on the side wall of the cabinet).

In order for the Euroscrew head to be in the same plane with the surface of the element (deeper into the material), the holes on the screw side of the Euroscrews must be countersunk to a depth of about 2-3 mm. For this, a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the Euroscrew head is used (in our example, the drill diameter is 10 mm).

Drilling holes to secure cabinet shelves

To fix the cabinet shelves, you can use special stops (shelf holders), or, as in our case, small furniture corners. Shelf holders allow you to easily rearrange shelves, thus changing the height of their location, furniture corners provide additional strength to the cabinet frame.

To determine the location of the corners, draw center lines corresponding to the lower boundaries of the shelves.

IMPORTANT: When marking, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the chipboard, as well as the location of the hinges and ease of installation. If your shelves are low enough, make sure you can fix them (Fig. 4). Do not place shelves too low and avoid placing fasteners too close to each other.

In our example, the bottom shelf is located exactly in the middle between the bottom screed and the top shelf of the cabinet (Fig. 6). To determine the height of the lower shelf (the position of its upper edge), you should divide the distance between the lower edge of the upper shelf and the upper edge of the lower screed in half, and then add half the thickness of the chipboard sheet (8 mm) to the resulting value. Measure this distance from the bottom edge of the top shelf and draw a center line (Fig. 5).

Attach a furniture corner to the drawn line and mark the centers for fastening the shelves at each of the support points (at the rate of two corners on each side of the shelf). The distance from the front edge of the shelf to the corner is chosen arbitrarily, but it should be taken into account that the fastenings should not be too noticeable when looking at the shelf from above.

To make the marking more accurate, combine and fix all the symmetrical elements of the cabinet (in our example, the side support walls) using a long rule or. After this, carry out axial marking of all elements at once (Fig. 5). If you mark elements separately, errors are inevitable.

If the size of your cabinet is not too large, carefully assemble it on the floor (Fig. 6). It is not necessary to tighten the elements with fasteners - just place them next to each other. This way you can check in advance that the cabinet is assembled correctly and, if necessary, correct any mistakes.

Drill the holes for the corners to a shallow depth (3-4 mm) with a thin drill.

Drilling holes for fixing the cabinet to the wall

The cabinet is fixed on both sides of the corner. At the side, fastening is done using two self-tapping screws, at the back - using one furniture corner (Fig. 2). The side holes are made in such a way that the fasteners move freely in them. In our example, their diameter is 4 mm. The location for placing the fasteners is chosen arbitrarily.

The rear support corner is located in the least noticeable place - under the middle shelf (Fig. 2). Having attached the corner to the side wall of the cabinet in the right place, mark the mounting hole, then pierce and drill it with a thin drill to a depth of about 2-3 mm (Fig. 7).

Hanging cabinet hinges

Installing hinge cups on cabinet doors

If the facade you are using already has holes for hinges, you can skip this step. In our example there are no holes, so they should be marked and drilled.

IMPORTANT: When marking the places where the hinges are attached, take into account the cabinet configuration and the location of the metal distribution box. Don't forget - about 20-25 mm of free space is needed to place the hinge strikes. Also, you should not place the hinges in places that are difficult to access for installation, for example, close to shelves.

To drill the loop holes, a Forstner drill with a diameter of 35 mm is used. The holes should be located at a distance of 5-6 mm from the side edge of the facade and at a distance of 50-100 mm from its lower and upper edges (Fig. 8).

Using a caliper, measure the required distances from the edges of the facade and mark the centers of the hinge holes.

Indentation values:

35 mm / 2 + 5.5 mm = 23 mm- from the side edge;

99.5 mm + 35 mm / 2 = 117 mm– from the bottom (top) edge.

Since in our example a ready-made façade was used and the assembly was carried out based on its size, the upper hinge was placed slightly lower, due to the inconvenient location of the electrical box (Fig. 2).

Having marked the holes, pierce them with an awl strictly perpendicular to the surface of the facade.

Install a Forstner drill bit into the electric drill chuck and securely fix it. Drill the hinge hole to the desired depth. The hinge cup must fit completely inside the hole.

Never try to do this work in one stage. After drilling the hole to a depth of 5-7 mm, continue drilling gradually. When removing small layers of material 1-2 mm thick, apply a loop and check its position. Don't forget - the drill has a sharp protrusion at the end, which can damage the front side of the facade if drilled too deep. Some craftsmen grind off this protrusion or even use two types of equipment, first cutting the contour with a regular drill, and then using a drill without a protrusion to drill the holes to the end. However, when correct use tool - the work can be easily done with a regular (sharp) drill, since the laminated chipboard sheet has sufficient thickness.

IMPORTANT: Drilling holes large diameter, do not forget to place hard material under the facade to avoid tearing its front side.

Once the holes are made, clean them thoroughly. Install the hinge cups and level the hinges using a block, rule, or building level. Then mark the centers of the hinge mounting holes with a pencil

Remove the hinges. Pierce with an awl and drill the mounting holes with a thin drill to a depth of 3-4 mm.

Reinstall the hinges and secure them with the supplied self-tapping screws.

Marking holes for hinge strikes

Align the door and supporting side using the rule. Using a caliper, set a small technological gap (2-3 mm) along the entire length of the door edge (Fig. 8). The top and bottom edges of the elements must match.

Don’t be afraid to make a mistake when setting the gap; it can later be adjusted by 2-3 mm by adjusting the hinge strikers.

Mark the centers of the mounting holes for the hinge strikes on the side wall of the cabinet using a pencil. Remove the door with hinges, pierce it with an awl and drill holes to a depth of 2-3 mm using a thin drill.

Assembling and securing the cabinet

It is advisable to perform assembly wall furniture not only in accordance with the principles of fixing the elements, but also taking into account the method of fixing the entire structure to the wall. This will give you a more comfortable working environment (especially if assembly and fastening is done alone).

In our case optimal solution is the combination of assembly and fastening of the cabinet. Thus, the two parts of the cabinet are assembled in advance, and then pulled together at the place of fastening. This method will allow you to fix the top side of the cabinet to the wall of the electrical box using adhesive.

Assembling the first half of the cabinet

Assemble and tighten the first half of the cabinet (Fig. 9) using Euroscrews. Fasteners threaded through the through holes of the first mating element (right side wall), and then screwed into the end holes of the second (bottom tie) using a hex key or a screwdriver with a hex bit. The confirmations are tightened until their caps are flush with the plane of the material.

Assembling the second half of the cabinet

To assemble the second half of the cabinet, PVA glue is used as an additional fastener. Add a little glue to the mounting holes on the plane of the first mating element (left side wall) (3-4 drops in each), then tightly hammer the dowels into them using a plastic hammer. Secure the rear mounting bracket to the side of the cabinet

Similarly, add glue to the end holes of the second mating element (top tie). Align the elements tightly and, if necessary, secure them with masking tape or supports.

Preparation for installation

First, install the first half of the cabinet close to the metal box and mark the side mounting holes. Since the marking is done through the side wall, it is not advisable to use a pencil or marker. It is more convenient to do it using a nail or a drill with a small drill directly through the holes in the side wall of the cabinet.

Install the second half of the cabinet also close to the box. Mark the center of the mounting hole of the rear metal corner with a simple pencil.

Drill the mounting holes using drills corresponding to the diameter of the plastic dowels (most often, dowels with a diameter of 6 mm are used to fix small wall modules).

IMPORTANT: Be extremely careful when making holes in walls. The power supply lines connected to the distribution box and located near it must not be damaged by the drill. If you are not sure where the supply lines are located, use

Hello again. Today we will assemble our wardrobe, we will do this according to the instructions below.

So, we took the parts from the cut. We didn’t want to glue the edge ourselves, so we ordered gluing there, especially since the price of gluing is not that high.

We also purchased all the necessary fittings for the cabinet and the necessary fasteners.

The floor turned out to be not entirely level, so the cabinet had to be built not on a plinth, but on adjustable legs; accordingly, the detailing was slightly altered.

The introductory part is finished, let's start assembling.

Wardrobe assembly instructions

Our procedure for assembling the wardrobe will be as follows.

You need to start assembling from the bottom of the cabinet, namely by assembling the base and installing the legs.

We take a part called the bottom and mark its lower side for installing the base and legs as shown in the diagram below:

The plinth can be secured to the bottom using mini fixes (eccentrics, rasteks - whoever calls it that), confirmats or ordinary plastic corners.

Since this will still be an invisible area, and the cabinet will not stand on a plinth, but on legs, I decided to secure the plinth using plastic corners. The legs were secured with 3.5*30 screws.

Just when you screw the legs, don’t overdo it (you can over-tighten it, and the sharp part of the screw will come out from the back side).

We attach the four parts of the base to each other using confirmations. For convenience, take yourself a corner clamp. You can use it.

Do not twist the front plinth with corners, as To adjust the legs you will have to remove it.

We will attach the sides to the bottom and roof with minifixes. They are great for fastening perpendicular parts, and they also manage to completely hide the fastener.

If space allows, it is convenient to assemble the sliding wardrobe lying on the front part and fasten it using confirmations. But since I didn’t have any free space in my room, I had to assemble it standing up and use eccentrics (rastexes, minifixes) as fasteners.

On the bottom and roof of the cabinet (from the inside) we mark holes for installing the minifix rod.

Before installing the sides, using a level, the bottom of the wardrobe must be leveled as evenly as possible. Simply lean the level and adjust the legs to the maximum horizontal position.

Now you need to mark the sidewalls, the holes should exactly coincide with the installed rods on the bottom and roof. In the sidewalls you will need to do two different drillings in two different planes.

The first hole is made for a metal eccentric, which will tighten the rod, it is made in the inner side of the sidewall, with a special 15mm cutter, at a distance from the edge of the end to the center of 34mm (this is if the rod has a total length of 44mm, like mine).

In general, when fitting a part onto a rod, its head should protrude 6 mm. If this is your first time installing minifixes, practice better on rough parts, so you will feel more confident when assembling.

The second hole is made at the end of the part, with a 6-6.5 mm drill, strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

For a more detailed understanding of this assembly step, you can use our materials on.

• When you have made all the necessary holes, do not rush to install the sides and roof right away.
• To give the structure initial rigidity, immediately assemble the central partition with the upper shelf (we fasten it with confirmations).
• At the next stage, we need to place the sidewalls, the rear wall of the console and the assembled T-shaped partition on the lower rods, tighten them with eccentrics, and secure them top shelf to the sidewalls (confirmed). Use an angle clamp for support.
• Next, we attach the roof and check the verticality using a level.
• If everything is fine, to provide additional rigidity, we install additional shelves using confirmats.
• Now, using 3.5*16 screws, we fasten the back wall of the fiberboard. We start from the two upper corners, and after perfect alignment We begin to screw in screws throughout the box, in increments of 15-20mm. The fiberboard should also be secured to the central partition and the top shelf.

The hardest part of the job is finished. We put the cabinet in its place, once again check the position of the cabinet by level and proceed to installing shelves, hangers and drawers.

Shelves can be made either rigid (secured with confirmations) or removable (on shelf holders).

To have fewer plugs for holes on the visible side of the wardrobe, I decided to install the shelves on shelf holders.

Everything is simple here. We mark the required height on the sidewall, use a 4.5-5 mm drill to make a non-through hole, up to 8 mm deep, and hammer the shelf holder into it.

Today you can easily use the services of professional assembly furniture. But some people want to do everything themselves, and the point here is not even the cost, but curiosity and interest. We'll tell you how to assemble a cabinet yourself in our article.

How to assemble a cabinet with your own hands

Young families often have to solve problems related to the furnishings of their “nest.” Sometimes the situation is further complicated by the lack of funds to buy new furniture. Besides, small size living space forces you to think in advance about the location of all interior elements.

You can cope with this problem if you assemble a closet with your own hands - this way you will get a place to store existing things that will suit you in size.

If you prepare for the process (buy tools and materials in advance), you can easily assemble the cabinet yourself. You don't need professional skills for this.

It is easier to assemble a cabinet if you divide the entire production activity into several stages. The work consists of a set of sequential activities:

Circuit design.

Preparation necessary tools.

Purchasing parts and giving them the desired shape and size.

Assembly of the structure.

Before assembling the cabinet, you should prepare tools that may be useful during the process:

electric drill– to tighten screws and drill holes;

hammer - you will use it to hammer in dowels;

• building level;

  a simple pencil - for taking measurements and making marks;

  glue – useful for gluing pile;

  a hacksaw for wood, which will allow you to fit all the parts to required sizes;

  a lot of screws and dowels.

Initially, it is necessary to check the quality of each part future design. The surfaces must be free of blisters, cracks, scratches and other defects. Please take precautions when transporting cabinet parts. All components should be securely fastened to the car body.

Before assembling the cabinet, you need to draw up a sketch and decide on the location of the structure. Here you need to focus on personal preferences and the availability of free space. In most cases, cabinets are located in a closet, in the corner of a room, or near a wall.

The standard height to length ratio is 1.62. That is, if the ceiling height is 3 m, the optimal cabinet length is 185 cm (300/1.62 = 185.1). The cabinet parts can have a depth of 40, 50 or 60 cm. Of course, you can assemble the cabinet completely various depths, but it is worth considering that too great value This parameter makes the use of furniture not very convenient.

Having chosen a suitable location, you can begin to draw up a sketch, which is a detailed diagram depicting all the elements of the future cabinet. It can be prepared manually on paper or using computer programs Excel and Basis. The advantage of the latest program is the ability to calculate the size and quantity of all parts that will need to be cut.

Example of filling a cabinet

Chipboard is most often used to make shelves. The shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners.

Before starting the assembly process, you need to prepare necessary materials. You can order cutting and edging of parts at the place where you will purchase them.

In order to assemble a structure measuring 1.5x2.4 m, you will need:

three horizontal parts 1.5×0.6 m;

two vertical parts 2×0.6 m (cabinet walls);

one partition 1.35×0.6 m;

three partitions for shelves measuring 0.325 × 0.6 m, which will be installed vertically;

one sheet for a shelf with dimensions 1.5 × 0.3 m;

three partitions for a shelf 0.3×0.4 m.

The main task at this stage is to calculate the number of parts and their sizes without errors. If the sketch is not drawn up accurately, there is a risk of buying the wrong amount of materials that will be needed.

How to assemble a cabinet: sequence of actions

1. First you need to install a 1.5x0.6 m board on the floor and attach two side elements to it. If there is a plinth on the floor, it is better to remove it so that the side parts do not need to be adjusted to fit it. It is better to use dowels to fasten parts. They allow you to securely attach elements to the cabinet wall.

To attach the remaining elements to the bottom board, screws and metal corners are useful. In some cases, shelves are installed using plastic corners, but fasteners made from such material are less reliable.

1. The next step is to assemble the shelves inside the cabinet: two boards are attached to the vertical part and the three transverse compartments, which are placed in a horizontal position.
2. The compartments are secured in a similar way - using self-tapping screws and metal corners. If it is possible to get close to the walls, which are located on the side, then the fastening elements can be Euroscrews.
3. The upper outer shelves are attached. Three vertical partitions of the structure are attached to a horizontal board with dimensions of 1.5 × 3 m. The frequency of fastening the partitions is 0.5 m.

If you want to assemble a floor-to-ceiling cabinet yourself, you may have difficulty securing the top cover.

You need to leave some space at the top to insert the hexagon. An alternative option is to attach the cabinet lid to metal corners from the inside.

This way you can get two hanger compartments in which you can place outerwear, dresses and shirts. On one side of the cabinet there will be a shelf, and the other side will be divided into three small compartments.

How to assemble a wardrobe

Is it possible to assemble a wardrobe yourself? To do this it is necessary to determine correct order actions. The first step is to check the integrity of the package - whether all cabinet parts have been delivered. You should have at your disposal several boxes of chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware.

Please note that hardware and other additional parts may be packaged with chipboard. When accepting cabinet parts, carefully check the contents of the boxes and inventory, since there are often cases when suppliers “forget” to include some items.

In order to assemble a wardrobe, you will need a set of the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver PH2;

hex wrench with edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);

tape measures (or rulers);

level (optional);

drills and drill bits with a diameter of 5 mm.

A screwdriver with bits (hexagonal and Phillips) will help to significantly speed up the work, but, of course, you can assemble the cabinet without it.

It is quite difficult to assemble a cabinet alone, so before starting work we recommend finding an assistant so that you have someone to ask to hold the part or hand over the tool. Before you start assembling the cabinet, you should remove all the parts from the packaging material and arrange the boards according to size. This way you can immediately determine the purpose of each element.

Each panel has characteristic holes, so it is almost impossible to assemble the parts incorrectly.

There are three chipboard connection schemes:

using confirmed screws;

using eccentric couplers (minifixes);

with the addition of wooden dowels (chops) to one of the above methods.

The connections differ from each other by characteristic holes that can be found on the plane and at the ends of the boards. The use of confirmations requires the presence of two types of holes:

In one part - through, in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm.

In the second part there is a blind part, with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.

The same number of holes is made for eccentric couplers:

In one part there is a blind part, in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm, into which the minifix rod is screwed.

The second part has a hole at the end (8 mm), connected to a recess in the plane with a diameter of 15 mm for the clamping cylinder.

For dowels, blind holes are made both at the end and in the plane with the same diameter of 8–10 mm.

Pay attention to the set of hardware from your cabinet; by their presence, you can determine the type of connections and the sequence of assembly of parts.

Remember also that the front side (end) of the boards is edge-glued, while the back side (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. This will help you assemble the cabinet correctly, including the correct placement of shelves, lintels and sides.

Determining the purpose of the panels

Carry out a thorough inspection of all parts so as not to miss blind holes and additional markings. Initially, you need to install the bottom - the bottom of the wardrobe.

There are two types of bottom: with adjustable legs and without them. If legs are attached to the bottom, then the bottom can be easily determined by the presence of blind or through holes with a diameter of about 10 mm into which they are inserted. Sometimes the legs are not inserted into the holes, but are installed using screws (in this case, the bottom of the cabinet will have corresponding markings).

The cabinet bottom without legs has a different design. Its basis is side panels and special strips (plinths) 50–100 mm wide, which are located along the perimeter of the surface and prevent it from collapsing under the weight of the cabinet elements. A design feature of this bottom is additional holes for dowels for attaching the base.

Having set aside the bottom of the cabinet, you can also immediately remove the roof (top panel). Its size will be similar to the parameters of the bottom, only with fewer holes.

Finding the side frames is also usually not difficult - these are the longest parts with holes for attaching shelves on one side. The internal vertical jumpers are shorter than the side walls and have characteristic holes at the ends, which are intended for confirmations or dowels.

In order to separate the shelves from the rest of the cabinet, you just need to select boards of the same (small) size, which are glued only on one (front) side. Sliding wardrobes are almost never equipped with overhead shelves, so they must have at least two holes at the ends on both sides.

The design of a sliding wardrobe often provides for the presence of two additional large shelves. One is installed below as a stand for shoes, and the other at the top is used as a mezzanine. The dimensions of both elements are identical.

If the closet has drawers, then their components are quite easy to find - these are boards with the smallest dimensions (the width of the boards is about 120 mm).

Rules for installing various hardware

Those who want to assemble a cabinet with their own hands often have a question: do they need to glue the wooden dowels? It should be understood that if you glue them, you won’t be able to disassemble the cabinet if necessary (during moving or renovation) without damaging the fasteners. The use of glue does not make the structure more rigid or durable, so gluing is advisable in cases where the connection is made only with dowels, without the use of screws or minifixes.

How to install dowels correctly? They are hammered exclusively into holes on the plane and in no case into the end of the chipboard, since the board may crack when connected. It is recommended to insert dowels by hand or using rubber mallet. It is also possible to use a metal hammer, but you need to work very carefully so as not to pierce the panel through the dowel.

The minifix rods are screwed in with a Phillips screwdriver. A screwdriver is not very suitable for these purposes, since you can easily turn it in the hole and fixing the connections will be unreliable. Once the panels are connected and the rods are in the holes, the eccentric discs can be inserted. This makes it easier to assemble the cabinet, because if the disk is not centered correctly in advance, the minifix rod will not go all the way into the hole.

When tightening a furniture screw (confirm), you should not use much force to prevent it from turning in the hole. But if this does happen, try sealing the hole with three regular matches.

How to assemble a wardrobe: procedure

It is easier to assemble the cabinet if you place it face down on the floor. At the beginning of the process, be sure to measure the diagonal of the side panel (not the length, but the diagonal). This parameter should be 5 cm less than the ceiling height in order assembled wardrobe then you could raise it. Otherwise, you can assemble the cabinet while standing, but you will need help holding the side panels in place.

If you want to assemble a wardrobe yourself, it is better to start from the bottom. Install the legs (or plinths) on the bottom of the cabinet and insert all the fixed hardware into the holes: dowels and minifix rods. After this, you need to insert all the hardware into one of the sidewalls and connect it to the bottom. If the wardrobe is wide with vertical jumpers, you should install the closest panel to the already standing side part. Then you can install the shelves between them in order from bottom to top. Next, in a similar way, assemble the next jumper and secure it with shelves.

Before installing the second side piece, look at how the top should fit. If the “roof” is installed on top of the entire structure, then you first need to secure the side frame. And if the top panel must be located between the side panels, before the last of them is attached, then you must first fix the top.

Nailing the back wall

Once you have assembled the frame, you can begin to secure the fiberboard on the back side. Most often, the back panel consists of several parts, so to avoid errors, you should determine the location of each of them before installation. Long-term storage of chipboard leads to slight deformation (especially the side elements). An arc (“belly”) appears on the panel, which can be eliminated if the fiberboard is nailed correctly.

That is, having attached the board to the cabinet, you first need to find and nail the flat side. Then, straightening out the curvature, you should nail the second side. Fiberboard is cut into sawing machines and has rectangular shape, which is close to ideal. The described method allows you to level the cabinet, correcting the diagonal curvature. You can check the quality of the work performed using a tape measure (the permissible deviation is 5 mm per 1 m).

Some cabinets include radius additions on the sides of the structure. These are independent elements that can be easily assembled and attached to the cabinet using special furniture ties. The same applies to the decorative figured roof (“canopy”) into which the lighting is mounted.

Installing additional items

These include box blocks, a pipe for trempels, hooks, a pantograph, and lighting. These parts are standard commercial items, each of which has its own instructions with detailed description sizes and installation work.

The exception is a pipe for hangers. The width is fixed exactly in the middle of the cabinet, and the height can be any. Most often, the pipe is installed below 50–100 mm from the top shelf.

Door system installation

If you managed to assemble the wardrobe yourself and install everything necessary elements, then you can begin installing its doors.

We propose to consider the most popular system, which is used most often due to its low cost. The set consists of two guides: high (which is installed on top) and low (with slots for wheels) - mounted on bottom panel closet In most cases, there are no holes in the guides, so before assembling the cabinet doors, you need to prepare a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. The recesses in the bottom strip should be drilled between the grooves in one row: two at the edges and the rest between them at intervals of 300 mm. Holes are drilled in the top bar in a similar way, only in two rows (separately for each groove). Fastening is carried out using furniture screws 12–16 mm long with a countersunk or flat head.

Important. Before installing the bottom strip, do not forget to insert special door stoppers into the bottom slots - each has a separate parking stop, which is set after adjusting it.

Installation of guides

The top guide is installed flush with the end of the roof. First, you should secure one side of the plank, then align it with the end, and then install the second. Next you need to screw in the remaining intermediate screws. If you assemble the doors in the described sequence, then the skewing of the strip can be eliminated.

Important. The bottom guide is not fixed flush, but with a distance of 15 mm from the end into the depth of the cabinet. This distance ensures that the doors will stand strictly in a vertical position without tilting.

Door installation

The next step is to install the doors, but first you need to figure out the pattern on them (if there is one). The first step is to install the door on the rear slots. To do this you need to carefully insert top part into the rear upper groove, squeeze out the spring-loaded lower wheels and place them on the lower rear slot. If the cabinet design includes more than two doors, it is necessary to install the second door on the rear rails in the same way. Exterior door is placed last.

Door adjustment

Now your task is to adjust the doors correctly. For these purposes, there are holes and adjusting screws for a 5mm hexagon at the bottom of the doors on both sides.

Using an L-shaped wrench, turn the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Pay attention to how the gap between the door and the sidewall changes - the smaller its width, the better.

After adjusting the doors, you need to set the stoppers correctly. They are designed to keep the doors stationary when closed. Align them so that the wheel fits exactly onto the stopper, and the end of the door does not reach the wall by about a millimeter. When there is more than one door, the outer latches are adjusted first, and then the rest relative to them.

Buffer fleece tape must be applied to the side ends of the adjusted doors (on both sides). This tape helps prevent doors from colliding with each other, as well as preventing damage to the chipboard. Sometimes, after filling the closet with things, the structure becomes slightly deformed, after which the doors need to be re-adjusted.

First you need to make sure that all work on leveling the walls, floors, finishing (including installing the apron), electrical wiring, connecting sockets and water supply is completed. It will be very difficult to complete the listed types of work with an already installed kitchen cabinet.

Before assembling the kitchen cabinet, take care to prepare the necessary tools:

a hammer drill, a drill with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm, a drill (and an adapter for it) and corresponding drills;

screwdriver (required!);

a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal (to saw off the tabletop);

hex wrench;

tools: square and level, tape measure, hammer, pliers and cutter knife.

Advice!You can borrow the missing items from someone, but it is better to purchase these tools yourself so that you can use them if necessary. A screwdriver and a hammer drill are useful in every home.

In order to assemble a kitchen cabinet, you should also prepare various fasteners:

furniture nails;

euroscrews;

fastening strip (rail) for hanging;

silicone based sealant;

ties that fasten the sections together;

self-tapping screws: 15–16 mm for fittings and 70 mm for hanging cabinets;

corners, dowels, anchor bolts(usually included with the headset);

conductor for dowels (preferably).

If you have instructions that tell you how to assemble the cabinet, study it carefully. It should describe (or draw) and number the parts of the headset, and also define the assembly sequence. Then you need to check the integrity of the package and arrange all the available elements. Since today almost all kitchen sets consist of modules, the process of assembling a cabinet is reminiscent of working with a construction set.

Usually they start assembling a kitchen cabinet from the bottom: first they install the lower cabinets, then the countertop, then they form and hang the upper modules, draw markings on the wall, and then install and hang the modules.

What is the algorithm for installing kitchen cabinet parts? Do you need to assemble the lower sections first or, conversely, the upper ones? You can install in these two ways. There are craftsmen who begin the installation process from the upper modules in order to lower cabinets did not interfere with work.

Please note that the upper cabinets are installed without fronts, so their installation will be easier. Plus, in this way you can identify the gaps between the facades directly on the wall.

If you decide to assemble the kitchen yourself, it is better to start with lower tier. Standard cabinets are divided depending on the type of construction, each of which has its own characteristics.

So, the decision was made to assemble the kitchen, starting with the lower modules.

First of all, we connect the bottom to the side walls using Euroscrews, which are included in the kit.

We are installing the top strips, on which we will then lay the tabletop. Then we measure the diagonals of the cabinet using a tape measure. If their length differs by no more than 1.5–3 mm, we continue the work process.

We secure the back wall made of fairly thin fiberboard using small nails or a construction stapler. To ensure reliable fastening, monitor the step frequency (it should not exceed 8–10 mm).

We install the legs on the lower part of the cabinet, securing them with self-tapping screws.

We install hinges in pre-made nests and secure them with self-tapping screws, then attach the lower facades to the hinges.

After installing the cabinet in a vertical position, you need to align the doors using the adjusting screws on the hinges.

If you managed to assemble the set, at the end you need to install the handles.

Drawers are easier to assemble using a slightly different technology.

First, you need to make markings on the side walls to install metal guides.

In accordance with the markings, we secure the guides, and then connect the side walls with the bottom and upper slats.

We collect retractable elements, installing mechanisms on their side surfaces.

Pay attention! The bottom of such boxes is the weakest point. It is best to fasten it using a construction stapler with a step frequency of 5–8 mm.

We equip the front parts of the drawers with handles.

This element is the easiest to assemble.

First you need to assemble the “cabinet box” by connecting the bottom, top and side walls using Euroscrews.

We install the hinges in the sockets and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Advice! Do not rush to hang the doors, this will make it difficult to install the cabinets on the wall.

The last step is to attach the hangers. If everything worked out, feel free to proceed with installing the kitchen cabinet.

We begin the installation process by installing the upper part of the structure, since the assembled lower cabinet with the already installed countertop can make it difficult to install wall-mounted modules.

We apply markings to the wall to secure the wall cabinets.

We measure the height of the tabletop and add from 50 to 60 cm to the resulting value, depending on our height. This way we get the height of the bottom edge of the wall cabinets.

From this line we measure the distance to the attachment point of the wall cabinet and draw another line. This is where we will fix the fasteners.

Advice! If your headset has corner cabinet, you should start assembling the upper part with it, and after installing it, begin installing the remaining elements.

After applying the markings, you can begin installing the fasteners.

If we hang cabinets on hinge fastenings, we need to drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and hammer plastic dowels into them.

Then we install locking screws with hooks at the ends into the dowels and then hang the cabinets.

Another way is to hang the elements on a metal rail. To do this, specially shaped fasteners are attached to the modules themselves, which cling to the wall-mounted metal profile(as in the photo).

This method is considered more reliable, so it is better to use it if possible; besides, the cost of the tire cannot be called high.

After installing the modules, you can hang the fronts and align them using the adjustment screws.

The floor part is a little easier to assemble than the rest.

First, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a thin blade, we cut holes in the back walls of the cabinets for communications. We treat the edges of the cuts with silicone-based sealant to protect the cabinet from getting wet and deforming.

We attach the cabinet to the place intended for it, level it, then connect it with the neighboring cabinets using furniture ties.

After installing all the cabinets, we install the tabletop.

If the tabletop does not fit, we cut its panel and install a protective end cap.

Pay attention! The countertop must be installed in such a way that the gap between it and the kitchen wall is at least 5 mm (to avoid deformation).

How to assemble the tabletop:

We lower the tabletop onto the cabinets and make markings on its lower surface where the sink is installed.

We remove the countertop and, placing it on a table or workbench, cut out a hole for the sink. This can be done by drilling several holes using a drill and connecting them with a jigsaw.

We install and secure the sink on the countertop, then treat the joint with silicone sealant.

We install the countertop with the attached sink on the kitchen cabinets, after which we align it horizontally and plane, and then fix it on the kitchen modules. To do this, you can take special fasteners or simply drive the spikes on the tabletop into sockets drilled in the walls of the modules.

The joint between the countertop and the wall can be disguised using a special plinth.

So we managed to assemble the kitchen cabinet. Now you can connect the sink to the water supply and sewerage system, place household appliances and use the kitchen as normal.

You can buy these and many other types of cabinets in our Formula Furniture online store.

What is the "Furniture Formula"? Reliability. Quality. Beauty. Versatility. Low prices. Guarantee. Fast delivery. Lifting and assembly. Their sum is equal to a successful purchase.

This is the formula for making furniture accessible to everyone. With "Formula Furniture" you can furnish an apartment according to affordable price, but without loss of quality, quickly and with good service.

Our goal is to enable people to buy good furniture at minimal prices, so that in any situation everyone can afford to buy a new sofa, hallway, kitchen and everything they want, everything they need to create comfort in their apartment. To do this, you don’t need to collect money first; you can simply buy now, and, if necessary, arrange an installment plan without overpayments. And we succeed.

We created a big, durable " balloon from scraps of happiness” of our customers. On this “ball” we bring this opportunity to new places, to new cities, to new areas so that all people can take advantage of our offer.

Now we have already opened 28 salons in 15 cities Perm region, and there will be even more of them, because people like our furniture and the way we sell it.