How to make a drill for drilling holes. Hand drill for poles: making it yourself. Spiral drill for hand drilling
How to make a homemade drill for fence posts
Owners of household plots or summer cottages are often faced with the need to dig a deep narrow hole to install poles, for example, for a new fence, gazebo, supports for vertical garden, flower bed, grape trellises or arches, etc.
Such narrow holes and wells sometimes need to be made in the most inconvenient places. And such holes, especially deep ones, cannot be dug simply with a shovel; here you need special device- drill.
Advantages of this device
A garden earth drill is tool for drilling wells in soil, which is simply necessary in a summer resident’s household. It is convenient and easy to use, helps reduce to a minimum the effort and time spent on solving the above problems, it is very versatile: if available replaceable blades various diameters and its function configurations can be significantly expanded. This tool can replace several diggers armed with shovels.
To dig a hole with its help, you just need to place it at the intended place and, applying slight pressure, make rotational movements. To make it easier to imagine what a garden drill looks like, remember what a regular kitchen corkscrew looks like. And the principle of its operation is similar to the principle of operation of a corkscrew.
Therefore, working as a drill does not require special training, physical strength, even a teenager, a woman or an elderly person can work with it.
This tool is quite light and compact, which allows you to effortlessly carry it from place to place and perform work with it in hard to reach places on small spaces. Finally, it is worth noting the clear advantages of the drill when working on difficult soil. A drill made from hard metals, is able to cut roots, split small stones that are found at depth.
Functionality
Now let's talk about the capabilities of this tool. Let's consider the option the simplest model soil drill with medium density and with average physical capabilities of the worker. Under such conditions, a hole 1 m deep and 20 cm in diameter will be made in approximately 15 minutes. A well with a depth of 3 m and a diameter of 30 cm under the same conditions will take about 2-3 hours.
Maximum possible depth for best models of this instrument– 15 m. Validity period – at least 10 years (approximately 300 wells).
Types of drills
Garden augers differ from each other in the type of cutting part. Cutting elements are in the form of a screw, helical(like in a tailspin) and in the form of semi-discs, two-blade(a kind of flat cutter). Cutting parts are removable and welded, they can be multi-tiered. Sometimes the drill starts with smaller diameter blades and gradually increases.
But all this applies to drills made in production conditions. They can be purchased in special stores. And although their cost is generally affordable (on average about 1.5 thousand rubles), these costs are sometimes not very useful. It should also be noted that factory-made drills do not always meet the requirements of the specific area being processed. The tool may not be designed for sufficient depth, or its attachments may not fit the required hole diameter.
Self-production
In addition to being easy to operate, a garden auger is also quite simple to make at home. For an owner who is familiar with plumbing tools and knows how to use them, making it is not difficult. In this article we will try to give recommendations on the manufacture of both the simplest drill and more advanced models. This will help you save on purchasing tools.
Let's start with something simple. For homemade The most suitable design is with a cutting part in the form of two semi-disks, blades or one disk - a flat cutter.
First of all, you need to make a drawing of the chosen structure, taking into account the size of the expected depression in the ground, its diameter and depth. At the same time the diameter of the cutting element should be 5-7 mm larger than the future hole.
Materials
It is necessary to prepare materials, namely:
- piece of durable sheet metal for making a cutter (blade),
- a piece of pipe for the wrench of suitable length,
- a piece of pipe of smaller diameter (so that it is inserted into the first pipe) for making an extension pipe,
- piece metal rod for the handle,
- threaded rod with wings,
- 4 bolts with washers and nuts.
Tools
You will need:
- welding machine,
- Bulgarian,
- hammer,
- electric drill with a set of metal drills,
- abrasive wheel for sharpening cutting elements,
- standard set of locksmith tools.
Manufacturing process
- Draw a circle on a piece of sheet metal required diameter and mark its center. Using a grinder, cut out the blank for the future blade. Then apply a cutting line to the workpiece (along the diameter line) and a cutout along the circumference of the knob. Having cut the resulting disk in half along the diametrical line, we use a grinder to make cutouts for the knob on each half.
- Take a blank pipe for making a wrench and use a grinder to make longitudinal cuts 3-4 cm long at one of its ends. There should be at least four of them. Then, using a hammer, bend the cuts towards the center of the pipe so that a kind of point is formed. Now it needs to be scalded with a welding machine so that earth does not pack into the pipe-knob.
- The next stage is welding both halves of the disk to the collar. It should be welded at a distance of approximately 5 cm from each other at an angle to the plane of rotation of approximately 20 degrees. Now one part of the drill is ready.
- Weld the handle perpendicularly to the extension pipe: you will get a part in the shape of the letter “T”. For strength, the handle can be additionally reinforced with a metal “kerchief”. Insert this T-shaped part into the pipe-collar and, having drilled a through hole, connect both parts with a pin with wings. There can be several such holes in the extension pipe to adjust the overall length of the knob as needed.
- The drill is ready. All that remains is to sharpen the blades. It is important to take into account that the cutting edge on the cutters is sharpened so that the tip faces the bottom, towards the bottom of the future pit.
The following video clearly shows this process:
How can you improve the tool?
- Firstly, you can make a drill with replaceable cutters. Then with its help it will be possible to drill wells of various diameters. To do this, it is necessary not only to make spare cutters of appropriate sizes, but also to provide a method for attaching replacement blades to the driver. The simplest method of fastening can be two welded plates of the same sheet metal, which will serve as mounting platforms for the blades. They should also be welded at an angle of 20 degrees to the plane of rotation. In the blades and in the mounting plates, you need to drill holes for bolts, 2 on each plate and, accordingly, on each blade. The cutters are fastened with ordinary bolts (M6) with washers and nuts. Please note that the bolts must be inserted with the threads facing up so that they do not interfere with the drilling process.
- Secondly, it is possible to make the lower end of the knob sharper, and therefore more functional. To do this, cut a narrow plate from sheet metal about 10 cm long and about 2 cm wide. Turn it on one side with a grinder into a cone, making it in the form of a point. Instead of making cuts at the end of the knob, you just need to flatten this end, after inserting a turned plate there and scald it with a welding machine. You will get something like a peak. Another option for such a peak is to make the plate slightly longer (15-17 cm) and, after heating it, roll it up like a small screw (remember, again, a corkscrew). For the rest, proceed as in the first option. Some craftsmen thought of welding a drill of the appropriate diameter for working on wood or metal as such an auger. This greatly simplifies the drilling process. The drill itself goes into the ground like clockwork.
- Thirdly, (this is suitable for especially dense deep layers of soil) you can weld a small flat cutter between the cutter and the peak to preliminary loosen the soil. It is made of two plates measuring 8x3 cm. In addition, such a device provides additional alignment during drilling, which significantly speeds up this process.
- Fourthly, you can use ready-made discs to make a cutter, for example a disc from a grinder for working on stone. It is not even necessary to cut it in half, but just cut it along the radius line and enlarge the hole in the center in accordance with the diameter of the knob. Then you can straighten it, spreading the edges of the cut in different directions, thereby forming something like a screw. Then weld, as in previous cases. Very good decision is the manufacture of a cutter from a disk from circular saw. Its sharp teeth brilliantly deal with the most stubborn tree roots encountered in the drill's path. It is prepared in the same way as a grinder disc.
So, we looked at several manufacturing options garden borer at home. Agree, this is not very difficult for the home craftsman. All that remains is to choose the most acceptable option and make yourself this wonderful device, which will make work in the garden and dacha easier for many years. And the production itself will only take about 2 hours. 
Care of the device
If you want your instrument to serve you faithfully for many years, do not forget about simple rules caring for it:
- After manufacturing, it is advisable to cover it with anti-corrosion liquid and paint it with metal paint.
- After working with it, clean it of any remaining soil, and check the integrity of the blades each time.
- All damage must be repaired immediately and these areas must be covered with anti-corrosion liquid.
- Before starting drilling, it is advisable to lightly loosen it with a shovel. top layer soil to facilitate the initial entry of the drill.
Pillar – main architectural element many types of fences and buildings. To install it, you need a special tool, a hand drill for poles. With its help, holes are selected in the ground into which the pillars are installed.
If necessary, motorized drills are used to make a large number of holes, but in private construction, in particular, during self-construction fences are used manual options such a tool. There are a lot of industrially produced models, but nothing prevents you from making your own drill that will satisfy local needs. And it will cost less than store-bought.
At least minimal skills in working with a welding machine and its availability are required.
Alternative option– production of custom-made tools according to the selected project. In this case, you will need to find performers and a suitable drawing.
Construction of an earth drill
Fundamentally, each drill consists of three main elements:
- Pike, which plunges into the ground first and centers the entire tool during the first stages of drilling. Some versions of auger drills and designs with an earth receiver are not equipped with a lance.
- Cutting part, made in the form of a screw, half disks or having another configuration.
- Solid or segmented rod, to the bottom of which the working elements are attached, and to the top - a handle or pin for connecting to a motorized unit.
The different types and combinations of these elements make the difference between drill types. The garden auger is equipped with a peak and two blades, mounted on the main rod at a certain angle (usually 35-40 degrees to the perpendicular to the axis). This is not the most productive tool used for making planting holes or holes for small supports.
Auger drill– a specific option for quickly installing wells for fencing supports. It is equipped with a spiral blade with several turns for removing soil, which is cut by a blade at the bottom of the auger.
The cutting edge of the blade should always remain the lowest point of the auger. Otherwise, the device will not be able to drill into the ground. Therefore, models with two to four semicircular blades are suitable only for making shallow holes for planting plants. The soil is directly cut by only one corner of one blade.
Drill with earth receiver is a piece of pipe large diameter, in the lower inner part of which blades, most often equipped with teeth, are fixed. As the drill rotates, they fill the volume of the pipe above them, after which the tool is removed from the ground.
Drill for TISE piles is a tool of the previous type, equipped with a hinged blade for creating channel extensions for pouring pile foundations. Sometimes, instead of a cutting part, the earth receiver is equipped with a blind bottom for collecting soil selected by a folding blade.
Making a drill
The main tools for self-made The drill is used by an angle grinder and a welding machine. The process begins with the selection and preparation of the main axis of the tool. A round (26.8-48 mm in diameter) or profile (20×20-35×35) pipe is suitable for this role.
From the profile square pipe You won’t be able to make a garden auger with your own hands. For it, exclusively pipes with a round cross-section are used.
Required length calculated by adding 50-60 cm to the depth of the future well. If the final value exceeds one and a half meters, you will need to make the bar collapsible. The connection mechanism can be any (threaded, cotter pin, or other), the main thing is that it can withstand the loads during rotation with resistance.
The pike is usually made separately. From a piece of pipe whose inner diameter is equal to the outer one, you can simply make a sharp tip or flatten the pipe, and then roll it into a spiral of one or two turns or sharpen it like the tip of a wood drill. Other options include soldering a narrow spiral screw. Good results are shown by using a 40-diameter wood drill. In this case, the diameter of the end drill must exceed the outer diameter of the rod.
After the lance is welded to the axial rod (or its lower segment), you can begin constructing the main cutting part. To do this, an old saw blade from a circular saw, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required hole, is cut into two equal halves. The resulting blades are welded to the main rod above the peak. The preferred angle to the perpendicular to the axis is 30-40 degrees, to the vertical - strictly 90. The cutting edges are sharpened.
Another, more productive option is to make a screw. For it, circles are cut from sheet iron, the diameter of which corresponds to the parameters of the required recess. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns of the future spiral (at least three). The blanks are stacked, after which a hole is drilled in their center, commensurate with the outer diameter of the pipe.
Afterwards, a small segment is cut out of the disks. The resulting parts must be welded to form a spring. Then it is stretched on a winch, the seams between the turns are welded with reverse side and attached to the axle.
The final touch– handle. It is made from a piece of the same pipe that was used for the axial rod or a diameter more suitable for the hand. The mounting method depends on personal preference. The handle can be welded to the axle, reinforced with additional crossbars, or made removable.
Materials used
Depending on the type of drill being manufactured, they are used various materials, but the basis is always round or profile pipes and sheet metal (waste saw blades).
Pieces of pipe, parts of broken wood drills, and metal plates are used as pikes. Or models are made without peaks. Studs and nuts are used to connect the rod segments.
In general, the range of necessary and acceptable materials depends on the chosen design. It must be thought through before starting work.
Cutting elements and their fastening
The cutting part of earth drills can be removable or non-removable. However, detachable mounting is only permissible on versions with half blades or saw blades or sheet metal. To do this, shelves are attached to the main rod, located at the same angle as the blades. 2-3 holes are drilled in the shelves, to which the cutting parts are attached using bolts and nuts.
Replacement bits can also be made for drills with an earth receiver. To do this, in the reinforcing arc that attaches the bucket to the rod, it is necessary to make a flattening, drill a hole and cut a thread in it.
The screw cutting parts are rigidly attached to the axis. To drill holes of different diameters, it makes sense to make several attachments for one handle.
Some modifications
- Straight crushing blades between lance and cutting edge.
- Multi-tier arrangement of blades with gradually increasing diameter.
- Power ribs between the corners of the blades and/or the axial rod.
- Receiver box to remove more soil in one go.
- Additional blade with 2-3 teeth for easier drilling in dense soils.
- Removable blades for quick replacement during work.
- And many others, the number of which is limited only by personal ingenuity.
Video
Drill for TISE piles
The fundamental difference between a drill for constructing pile foundations is the presence of a folding blade and a container - an earth receiver. It is often manufactured as a separate tool along with an auger drill for the actual wells.
The blade folding mechanism is a rod that moves a small piece of larger diameter pipe that is placed on the main rod. This movement activates a system of levers that lowers the blade.
Auger drill
To make multiple holes, it is better to use an auger drill. For one-time projects, a fishing ice pick is quite suitable. But for the mass installation of holes, it is better to purchase or make an appropriate drill from pipes and other materials.
In a “working” auger drill, only one edge of the blades protrudes. The second can be equipped with a comb with several teeth located slightly below the cutting plane.
If you have the time and money, using a motorized block and a special bed will help significantly speed up drilling holes for fence posts.
Drawings
The abundance of designs allows you to create a highly specialized tool for personal needs. Let's look at some drawings of such options.
Shovel drill
When planting plants, the drilling depth is not critical. Therefore, you can donate an old shovel to make hole preparation easier. You should retreat 30 mm from the lower center point. Draw lines from it to the edges at an angle of 10-20 degrees. Then step back 30 mm from each edge and draw vertical lines. The bayonet segments located between the verticals and the lines diverging from the center are cut out.
Then cut the marked 30mm from the bottom center point. Now all that remains is to bend the lower and side parts of the bayonet into opposite sides along the marked lines. The earth drill with your own hands is ready.
During construction and arrangement land plot, very often you need to do round holes in earthen soil. Such pits are needed for light utility structures, these include: arched structures, fences, pillars and other buildings. Even the pits that are made when performing pile foundation, only smaller diameters are also performed with a hand drill.
Types of equipment
In what cases can it be used this type equipment:
- When utility networks are laid.
- For the construction of a well.
- For installing a load-bearing base on piles under light outbuildings or other designs.
- When installing a fence.
Types of structures and their technical characteristics
In the past, vertical shovels were used for such purposes. They have been replaced by new, improved, simple models that will greatly facilitate all types of work.
A few simple kits:
The simplest mechanical device
It is a conventional double-sided equipment with a tubular rod, a handle and a cutter with 2 blades on the other side.
Used for digging shallow holes and shallow wells.
Model with removable cutters
It can be used for all types of work
Auger drilling device
The main differences between the improved manual model is that behind the cutting blades there is a screw auger. Thanks to several cutters and a split design, work is carried out quickly, and due to extension, penetration occurs to the required depth.
Fundamental manual equipment "TISE": characteristics and production
Today, in private suburban construction increasingly you can find drilling operations with load-bearing base. In frequent cases, individual construction opts for TISE, optimal solution in terms of cost of work and quality of work.
Modern device for wide use
The operating principle of the drill will ensure comfortable work:
- The presence of sliding sections of the rod allows you to adjust the desired depth, since the length of each part is 1.10 m.
- The equipment is equipped with a soil receiver with a diameter of 20.5 cm, which exactly corresponds to the size of the holes.
- In order for the well to be vertically ideal, a cylindrical accumulator is used.
- If during drilling operations obstacles form in the ground, a guide pin will come to the rescue, which will be responsible for the given direction in the event of interference.
- Screw plates and special cutters for loosening, which are located in the lower part of the receiver, are responsible for collecting soil.
- The device is equipped with a folding paddle, which is raised by a cord and lowered by its own weight.
There are only two versions of the TISE drill, which differ only in the storage device.
TISE drill: manual assembly in several versions
A drill made independently can be thought of as 2 different pieces of equipment: one model with an extension, the other designed for drilling, a simpler design.
Manual assembly for drilling work, without expansion:
- You will need 2 pieces of regular water pipe(diameter 210mm and length 150mm).
- A bottom is welded on one end of the pipe, and a removable chamfer on the other.
- A thick drill and auger are mounted in the center.
For a telescopic rod you will need 2 pipes (250x250 mm and 200x200). This design can cope with drilling difficult soil up to 100 mm, and the wall of the cup will be perfectly smooth.
After watching the video review, you will be able to understand in more detail the assembly of the equipment and the principle of its operation:
To prevent soil from sticking to the walls of the well, you can use machine oil.
Assembling the device for expansion:
- This device has a more complex structure. A pipe with a diameter of 210 mm and a length of 800 mm is used for the glass.
- The second glass is made 50 mm smaller in diameter.
- Next, there is also a chamfer and a bottom, which acts as a storage tank for soil, holes are made there.
- A rod made of a pipe 200x200 mm in diameter and 100 cm long is attached in the center, into which a device made of bearings is mounted.
- Then you will need a steel angle, 250 mm long, connect it to the sleeve. Using a bolt up to 2 cm, we weld it to the dead rod (the design resembles a door hinge).
- No. 21 Device with extension
- A 250x250 mm pipe is mounted on the rod, and a sleeve with a bolt is welded to the bottom, onto which the 2nd angle is attached and connected to the first.
- Thus, we get a mobile device.
- Finally, we screw on the blade of the shovel, which visually resembles a simple plow for cleaning the bottom.
Schematic drawing of manual assembly
Mechanical hand pole equipment, application, work quality
Among the many models, I would like to highlight one of the universal drilling devices, the earth drill. The equipment is designed for a wide range of tasks. Used as in professional field, and for individual construction.
Using the equipment you can perform the following types works:
- Construction of fences.
- Preparatory work for foundation supports.
- For the construction of drainage wells.
- Planting trees and plants.
The device can also be used for laying communications, i.e., for horizontal drilling.
This equipment is dismountable, lightweight, durable and easy to transport. To work with a digger, you do not need special physical training; you can handle all types of work independently, without outside help.
Types of structures for pillars
There are several types of equipment that differ in functional features and parameters.
We distinguish three groups:
- “Pit drills” are household without a motor; the work is carried out with the help of an operator.
- Equipment that runs on gasoline or motors.
- Hanging structures work only with the help of special equipment.
Manual hole drills without motor
The compactness of the model is convenient to use and transport. Thanks to the equipment, it is very easy to install a lightweight wooden fence or simply dig a hole for a well.
The design looks like this:
- Simple "T" handle.
- Rod with built-in knife.
Handmade models are made different sizes, there are also collapsible ones, which is very important during transportation. Holes are made with a diameter of up to 300 mm and a depth of up to 2 m.
Mechanized models
This is a simple piece of equipment with an electric drive and a motor. There are also gasoline models. The tool allows you to make fairly deep holes up to 3 m.
Drilling or mounted rigs
This model is designed for drilling large diameter wells. Just right for installing electric poles and serious fences, for example, airports or industrial enterprises.
How to make a hand drill yourself
Very few people know that making hand drill can be done at home. Will need detailed instructions and availability necessary tools and materials.
The model provided is not suitable for complex work with stony clay.
We prepare the necessary materials for production
To manufacture the equipment you will need:
- Vise.
- Gas keys.
- Grinder with a nozzle for metal.
- Welding.
- Electric drill.
- Die holder.
Step-by-step assembly instructions
Pipe processing
We take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 5 cm and make an oval edge.
Drill handle
We prepare a place for the drill handle. We weld a piece of metal for the drill handle to the oval side.
Mounting the nut
A nut is welded to a part with a diameter of 5 cm.
We screw both ends of the pipe. We weld a tip on one side of the pipe, and a bolt on the other and screw it to each other. We cut the discs in half.
Mounting disks
The 2 halves of the disk are welded at an angle of 40 degrees to each other on the edge of the pipe. The second half of the larger diameter is welded similarly above the first at a distance of 10 mm.
We twist both parts together. We get a hand drill.
After all the work has been carried out, it is necessary to carry out a test drilling and only after that it can be prepared for applying paint. It will take no more than 2.5 hours to make this model.
Choosing the right tool for yourself, it is better to use some recommendations that will help you do right choice, saving time:
- When choosing, pay attention to the spiral; the speed of work depends on this detail.
- If drilling is planned small sizes, then you can use a flat spiral.
- When purchasing, pay attention to the speed mode of the equipment. During drilling operations, you should strictly follow the instructions so that the tool does not fail quickly.
- If you are faced with choosing a hand drill for more serious work, then it is better to look at a model with an auger.
- Working with manual device, it will be too tiring for you. It is necessary that the drill removes the earth from the drilling site, which will greatly facilitate your efforts.
For more detailed information, as an example of the operation of one of the types of devices, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video material on how to drill a well yourself using the percussion-rope method.
The video review will explain to everyone how competently you can drill a hole by hand. Practical advice will help you choose best option and take seriously the choice of the equipment you need.
Good day. I want to tell you about how I made the drill.
I needed to install several posts of different diameters on the site. I was too lazy to dig, buying a ready-made drill was expensive, and my hands were itching. That's how the idea of making a drill myself came up. I found several on the Internet interesting options and, in fact, got down to business.
Since my posts were of different diameters, I decided to make a drill with interchangeable attachments for different hole diameters, 100 and 180 mm. Next I will describe the manufacture of a drill with a diameter of 100 mm.
So, to make a drill I needed:
1. Pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm, length 150-160 mm
2. Strip, 3-4 mm thick, 20 mm wide and about 80 mm long.
3. Milling cutter (or circular disk), in the future I will simply call it a disk, with a diameter of 100 mm and a thickness of at least 1.5-2 mm. (Fig. 1)
In this case, it is better to take a pipe with a diameter 2-5 mm smaller than the central hole of the disk.
A 
B 
IN
Figure 1. Drill components. A – cutter (disk); B – tube; B – stripe.
We will make the auger part of the drill from the disk. To do this, cut the disk into 2 equal halves, as shown in Figure 2
Figure 2 Cut disk.
Next, prepare the drill tip. It is necessary to give direction to drilling and ensure stability. Let's take a strip; it is desirable that the width of the strip be at least half the diameter of the pipe. In the example I described, the width of the strip is equal to the diameter of the pipe. (Figure 3).
Figure 3. Strip and pipe
From one edge of the strip we make a mark at a distance of approximately 12-16 mm (Fig. 1B). This section will remain straight. We clamp the strip in a vice, according to the mark, and twist it approximately 90 degrees (Fig. 4)
Figure 4. Twisting the strip.
The result will be a spiral strip (Fig. 5).
Figure 5 Spiral strip and tube with markings.
Figure 6. Marked strip
Figure 7. Tip after trimming.
We give it the shape of a feather on sandpaper (Fig. 8.) (in principle, this is not necessary, but it is more beautiful this way). The tip is ready, let's move on to the next element - the guide.
Figure 8. Finished tip
Let's make a guide to which the disk halves and the tip will be welded. On one edge of the tube we apply markings in the form of a crown with four peaks - teeth (Fig. 5). The height of the teeth is approximately 35-40 mm. After this, carefully cut out our “teeth” (Fig. 9) and bend them evenly inward (Fig. 10).
Figure 9 Cut guide
Figure 11 Guide.
Next, we make a slot in the tip at the junction of the two prongs, as shown in Figure 11 A. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the tip, and the depth is slightly deeper than the bend line of the prongs, 5-10 mm. If the guide width is smaller internal diameter pipe, it will be enough to make a slot such that the straight section of the tip passes inside the guide. We sharpen the two edges of the slot to fit the spiral (Fig. 11B), so that the tip fits into it to its full depth (ideally, after welding, the tip should smoothly move into the guide) (Fig. 11B).
A 
B 
IN
Figure 11 Slot in the guide.
Figure 12.
Well, the last step is to weld the disk halves. To do this, we draw 2 lines on the guide - the edges of the hole in the floor disks will be located on them (Fig. 13).
Figure 13
In principle, you don’t have to draw these lines, but with them it will be easier to symmetrically arrange the half-disks. We weld both halves one by one to the guide (Fig. 15), at an angle of 50-70 degrees to the axis of the guide.
Figure 14. Welding the disk halves.
The drill is almost ready, all that remains is to clean it and attach the handle.
A drill with a diameter of 180 mm was made in the same way. Both drills shown in Figure 15
Figure 15.
Figure 16 shows the drill assembly with handle. I think there is no need to describe the manufacture of the handle; in Figure 17 everything is clear.
