Self-production of wooden windows. Construction of wooden windows Do-it-yourself windows made of wood
Today, the greatest demand among consumers is plastic windows, but this does not mean that wooden models have lost their relevance. Main advantage similar designs is as follows: almost anyone can make wooden windows with their own hands.
Advantages
Today, wooden windows with double glazed windows are considered elite option, which not every homeowner can afford. In terms of their technical and operational characteristics, they are in no way inferior to PVC structures, and in terms of environmental safety they are superior in many ways.
The undoubted advantages of wooden models include:
- naturalness;
- safety in use (they do not emit toxins due to temperature changes, and with high-quality installation they do not change their parameters);
- simplicity and ease of installation and repair work;
- aesthetic appeal (for wooden models dirt is almost invisible);
- several opening options, mosquito net.
Of course, such designs are by no means cheap. But making them yourself is a way to save money.
Manufactured at special machines Wooden windows are distinguished by precision assembly. But respect for everyone technological features connection process various elements design will make it high quality and reliable.
Tools
To make such a window with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- drill;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- milling machine;
- roulette;
- ruler;
- glazing bead;
- glue;
- sealant;
- fasteners.
Box
Pine is the most popular material for making boxes among middle-class consumers. It is affordable and practical to use.
An oak window will be of better quality. But this material is quite expensive, so experts do not recommend making a window structure from it for the first time. Also, do not use soft wood.
The pine boards that will be used for the box must be properly dried.
When purchasing a board, choose a material without knots, cracks, and not deformed. The box experiences the greatest load, so it must be made of high-quality boards.
If glued laminated timber was chosen, then provided high-quality installation you are guaranteed to receive a high-strength window; it will not change its parameters during operation.
To avoid subsequent deformation, the window block should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening.
Depending on the thickness of the window, a timber of a certain size is selected. The minimum value is 6*4 cm.
Grooves in the timber can be made using a router or electric planer. Before carrying out this stage of work, it is best to practice on a separate piece of board.
First you need to take measurements, according to which the box can be made. In the blanks for it, grooves in the shape of the letter G should be made to a depth of 1.5 cm. The ends of the bars are sawed off at an angle of 45˚. After this, all the elements of the window frame must be connected with wood glue, holes must be made in them, through which wooden rods 3 cm long must be inserted.
Don't forget to lubricate the holes for the wooden rods with glue.
Thus, the resulting structure will become motionless and rigidly fixed at a right angle.
The opening into which the box will be installed must first be prepared: cleaned of debris and dirt, leveled. Holes should be drilled in the walls (in increments of no more than 80 cm) into which dowels should be driven. The box is secured with self-tapping screws.
After this, using polyurethane foam, you need to seal all the gaps between the walls and the box. The advantage of this fixation is the following: the design does not depend on temperature changes.
It must be remembered that the geometry of the window must be strictly observed: angles - 90˚, difference in diagonals - no more than 10 mm, deviations in evenness - no more than 1 mm per 1 m of window block length.
Frame
Experts advise inviting professional craftsmen to measure the frame, since the slightest mistake in calculations can lead to undesirable consequences. It is best to make a frame from timber with a cross-section of at least 6*4 cm. Euro-windows require timber whose humidity does not exceed 12%. Oak, hornbeam, and beech are ideal for such structures.
It is worth using solid pieces of timber to make frames; it is better to make it from several boards in several layers, connecting each of them with wood glue; make sure that the fibers of each layer are perpendicular to the fibers of the previous one.
The number and thickness of glass, bead parameters depend on the shape of the frame profile. The single-glass model has a pair of rectangular grooves. Double glass has an additional groove for the second glass.
The profile is shaped using a router or electric planer. In this case, glass 4 mm thick and glazing bead 10 mm thick are used.
The prepared boards are sawn, the cutting angle along the edges should be 45˚. They are connected in a tongue-and-groove manner and fixed with self-tapping screws so that their caps are recessed into the wood (if desired, they can be “hidden” under a mixture of glue and sawdust).
Then the entire structure is assembled and the joints are carefully coated with wood glue. After the frame has dried, the joints are sanded.
Window models with a sash require installation of fittings.
Do not forget to treat all wooden components with an antiseptic compound before installing both the box and the frame.
Glass can only be installed after the frames have been installed.
Installation Features
In order for the wooden window to be installed strictly horizontally, it is necessary to use mounting blocks. The window is first carefully adjusted, then fixed with wedges.
If your window is more than 1.5 m, then additional mounting plate install in the middle of the structure.
Glass
It is important to correctly calculate the size of the glass, this will avoid the formation of cold bridges. Measurements are taken with an accuracy of 1 mm. When cutting glass with a diamond screw, you must take safety precautions (use gloves to protect your hands, glasses to protect your eyes).
The prepared pieces of glass are inserted into the frame for fitting, then they are removed. Sealant is applied to the grooves and the glass is reinserted. Then the entire structure is fixed with a bead using small nails.
Finishing touches
The structure, completely prepared with your own hands, is installed in the grooves and fixed with self-tapping screws.
The screws must go through the box; a mounting gun will help you do this.
At the last stage it is necessary to seal all the cracks polyurethane foam, let it dry and plaster the surface of the walls.
After this, you can install the ebb and window sill.
As you can see, making wooden windows It’s quite possible to do it yourself. Of course, for this it is necessary to adhere to a certain sequence of work and observe some technological subtleties.
If you doubt that you can make such structures yourself, seek help from professional craftsmen. They will manufacture and install wooden windows quickly and efficiently.
Made from prefabricated glass panels double glazed windows are beautiful and comfortable. But they have one drawback: if the glass accidentally breaks, you often have to replace the entire window, which is both time-consuming and expensive. Therefore, if you need windows for a dacha or for some outbuilding, plastic windows are not economically viable. It is much easier and cheaper to install wooden ones. And making wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult, although it would be unfair to call this work simple.
Wooden windows are able to maintain the required level of humidity in the house, which has a beneficial effect on the internal microclimate of the room.
Selection of materials and tools
By making a window in a home workshop, and in addition, without sufficient qualifications, it is impossible to achieve its complete tightness and reliable sound insulation. Therefore, for a residential building, it is better to order windows from professionals. But for a veranda, bathhouse, barn or garage, anyone can try to make wooden windows with their own hands, as long as they have it at hand necessary materials and tools.
When deciding to make a window yourself, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing the material. The wood must be well dried, otherwise warping and shrinkage of raw wood cannot be avoided in the future. Also, the board should not have chips, cracks, knots, etc.
The window structure itself consists of a box, which is inserted into the window opening and firmly fixed in it, and the frame itself with inserted glass. For the box it is better to take wooden board with a cross section of 150x50 mm, and for the frame they usually use wooden beam with a section of 60x40 mm.
For windows use pine or oak boards. Oak is much more durable than pine, but also much more difficult to process. Therefore, novice carpenters first do window designs from pine and, only after gaining experience and “getting in touch”, they switch to working with oak.
Tools for assembling a window you will need:
- roulette;
- jigsaw or hand saw;
- drill;
- plane (preferably electric);
- chisel;
- drill;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- glass cutter
Return to contents
Making a box
Despite the ease of manufacture, the box must be treated with great respect. After all, it is fixed in window opening the box will take on the main load. If it cracks or bends under the weight of the wall, it will be impossible to insert a window into it, and the glass of the inserted one will probably break.
The manufacture of the box begins with blanks. To do this, 2 pieces are sawn off from the board, the length corresponding to the width of the window opening, and 2 pieces corresponding to its length. The ends of the boards corresponding to the width of the box are turned into a tenon 20 cm thick using a jigsaw and chisel. And at the ends of the boards, measured along the length, a groove of the same thickness is made in the middle.
After this, for each board you need to select a groove with a plane that is 50 mm wide and 3-4 mm deep. The resulting ridges will subsequently serve as a support for window frame and promote better window sealing. Having completed the selection, all four sides of the box are connected to each other.
The corners are first fixed with wood glue, and then two holes Ø12-15 mm are made at the ends of the boards so that the drill goes through the top board and goes 10 mm into the end of the bottom board. Then wooden rods of the appropriate diameter are inserted into each hole. These rods provide immovable fixation of boards connected at right angles.
Typically, window frames are inserted into the wall directly during the construction of the walls, and frames are inserted after the roof is completed. The box must be inserted with the selected side facing outwards. Since the box is quite long time are subject to significant stress, especially on their top part, then, to avoid warping, temporary spacers are inserted into them before installing the frames.
These spacers are vertically inserted 25-30 mm boards, 10 mm longer than the distance between the transverse boards of the box. The lower part of the boards is cut straight, and the upper part is cut at a slight (4-5º) angle, so that the spacer can be inserted more tightly into the box, and later it can be easily removed from there. The number of spacers depends on the width of the span and is taken at the rate of 1 spacer per 40-50 cm of width.
Return to contents
Window frame assembly
The shape of the window frame profile depends on the number of glasses inserted and their thickness. With a single-glass profile, the frame has 2 grooves: 1 – for glass, 2 – for a more airtight insertion into the box. For a double-glass profile, you will need one more additional groove. If you need three glasses in the window, it is better to make an additional single-glass frame that will be inserted into the frame from the inside.
First you need to cut the timber correctly. Having measured the distance between the boards of the box, mark the same on the beam, and then saw it off, but not straight, but at an angle of strictly 45º. The ends are sawed off along a converging path, i.e. one edge remains the same length, while the opposite edge becomes shorter. If the window is planned to be hinged, then you need to saw off 4 frame heights and 4 blanks corresponding to half its width plus 3 cm. If everything is measured and sawed off correctly, then the blanks connected together should form a rectangle, 1-2 mm smaller in size than the internal perimeter of the box.
On each blank that will be attached to the window frame, a cut of 10 mm wide and 5 mm deep is made on one side of the long edge with a plane to ensure greater tightness when installing the frame in the box. On the short edge, samples of the same size are also made. If the profile is single-glass, then on the short edge one sample is made at the diametrically opposite end from the one made on the long edge. With a double-glass profile, samples are made from both ends of the short edge.
Grooves are also made on the remaining two bars, but differently. They are made half the width and half the depth of the timber, but in mirror image. That is, the grooves are made so that when they touch, the two halves are connected into a single structure. The same grooves must be provided in the ends of the horizontal bars connected to the vertical bars (this is where the extra 3 cm of width will go).
Two half-frames are assembled from these blanks. Next, as when assembling the box, holes are made at the ends, only smaller ones, Ø 8-10 mm. The ends are then folded together and connected with wooden rods. For greater reliability, screws are screwed into the end connections. long screws, be sure to recess their caps, and even better, the ends are fastened with metal corners.
Two assembled half-frames are attached to the window frame using small cylindrical hinges, 2 for each half-frame. The hinges are attached with screws: one half to the frame, the other to the window frame. In a static position, the two half-frames are fixed with latches or latches.
If the window will not open, then two options for the window frame are possible. If the window itself is small, then 2 frame heights and 2 widths are sawn off for the frame. Further operations for assembling the frame are completely identical to the casement window.
However, if the window size is large, then it is better to divide the glass into two or three parts. The frame body itself is assembled according to the same scheme, but 1 or 2 additional vertical beams are additionally mounted into it, on which grooves for glass are made.
To do this, grooves are made on the frame body in the middle or at a distance of 1/3 from the edges on the back side of the frame for half the beam, and in width - for the width of the beam. On additional blanks, spikes of the same width and thickness are made on the outside. Then the tenons are inserted into the grooves and secured with wood glue and self-tapping screws. Such frames are not attached, but simply inserted into the box. They are fixed with platbands, and the remaining cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam.
- Frame (box). The main load-bearing part of the window consists of wooden profile, manufactured using European technologies. The dimensions of the frame depend strictly on the opening. Since all loads from the remaining elements of the window are transferred to the frame, it can be reinforced with additional structural elements.
- Sash. This is the part of the window that opens. The sashes can be rotary, folding or combined. The presence of a sash is not prerequisite for a window (it may be blind). The easiest way to clean windows is with pivoting sashes.
- Impost. For those who do not know what an impost is, let us explain. Imagine that you have an ordinary blind window, vertically divided into 2 parts. So this one vertical stand and is called an impost. It gives rigidity to the window, thereby increasing its strength and durability in the opening.
- Double-glazed window. This is the same glass that is in your window. And the word “package” is present in the name because it is glass that is solid on all sides. That is, you cannot remove the glass from a double-glazed window - it is cast. There are single-chamber (2 glasses), double-chamber (3 glasses), three-chamber (4 glasses) double-glazed windows. The camera is the space between two glasses.
- Accessories. This is all fasteners windows, as well as handle, hinges and locks. Thanks to the fittings, the wooden window can be adjusted.
- Seals. These are elastic rubber strips that are inserted into special grooves for better connection doors with a frame (to keep air and moisture out).
- Glazing bead. Glazing beads are structural elements that secure the glass unit in the frame. They are inserted into the grooves on the inside and outside of the window after the glass unit has been inserted.
- Layout. This decorative elements, which can be placed inside a glass unit to add architectural beauty.
- Gorbylki. Also decorative elements of a wooden window, which divide the double-glazed window into several parts. IN arched windows they can also be made in an arc or circle. Sometimes slabs can simply overlap the glass unit.
- Windowsill.
- Low tide. Installed with outside under the window and serves to drain water from window opening. Can be secured in the lower groove under the window frame.
- Slopes. They can be external or internal, attached to the walls between which a window is inserted. Slopes perform not only a decorative function, but also a heat-saving function, so it is recommended to insulate them.
- Aluminum profiles. They are attached from above to the bottom of the frame and window sash from the outside. These profiles are designed to drain water that gets directly onto the window. It is made of wood, so you need to protect it as much as possible from moisture.
Pine is most often used in the production of wooden windows. Larch is valued more highly due to the higher quality of the material. And oak windows retain their properties for decades.
In the construction industry, the trends of progress are beginning to be used faster and easier than in other industries, since plastic windows are no longer a curiosity in our country. But here’s the problem: replacing such tired metal-plastic structures with new ones made of wood is not a cheap pleasure, but what to do if deadlines and finances sing romances, and your hands grow just from the right place?
In fact, making a window out of wood with your own hands is not so difficult, especially if you have mastery of the tool at the “Home Craftsman” level.
A little experience + basic skills + a pinch of great desire + a little dexterity, as well as the necessary materials and raw materials = voila, you are ready to work and can already be sure of victory!
It is quite normal that both during the construction of a house and during major renovation It’s stupid to think that without experience and practice you can make a first-class wooden frame, or better yet two, and even slopes to boot. But if you need a barn or other outbuilding, then you don’t need much intelligence. But there is something that should be remembered as Holy Scripture - maintain tightness, correctly calculate the geometry of the frame block, and of course, good preparation, without which you can’t start a business.
In our work we will need a beam with a cross section of 6*4 cm, possibly more. This depends on the size of the window unit. The shape may vary, as it depends on the number of glasses you want to insert and the thickness and size of the factory beads.
Important: the more area you have window unit, the larger the cross-section you choose. It happens that the frame warps due to its weight and mass, so foresee this in advance so as not to correct mistakes in the future.
A few rules
- If you have a single-glazed profile, you should make 2 rectangular grooves, which will be required for installation and glazing.
- If the profile has two glasses, make another groove for the second one.
- If the glazing bead is 1 cm, choose rectangular grooves and glass 4 mm thick.
- The frame will be assembled from the profile in which the grooves will be made in advance; you should mark it and then cut off an angle of 45 degrees.
- Make a tongue-and-groove fastening joint and place it on glue for greater reliability and immobility.
You can also additionally secure the structure with self-tapping screws, but you will have to make sure that the caps fit well into the wood, otherwise they will interfere with the closing/opening of the doors, and this should not be allowed.
Inserting glass
When you have finished making a window out of wood with your own hands, all that remains is to insert the glass, and then you can start installing the block in the box. If you try it on carefully and without haste, then after cutting the glass you will be guaranteed no cold due to the tight fit of the glass to the wood.
The created block just needs to be placed in the box and secured properly, as we described above; if you have the skill (and it should have appeared during the manufacture of the window frame), this will not be difficult for you. Be sure to seal all cracks to protect yourself from wind and precipitation, as well as from the formation of drafts.
Wooden window modern house- the product is quite complex. But let’s think about it: complex means made up of several simple ones. It doesn't matter how many there are simple steps, ten or a hundred. If you move consistently, everything will work out.
Let's imagine what the future window will look like. Let's say you need a window that can be opened a little for ventilation, but you can also open it wide to let more into the room fresh air. Modern fittings allow you to combine both functions in one sash. However, it is in this part that we will make the window “the old fashioned way.” There will be a small window at the top and a large sash at the bottom. In addition, the window will be vertically divided into two parts. The left part is solid, the right part, where the sash and window are located, is opening. The resulting window should look something like this:
Now we take the dimensions of the future window:
The dimensions of the window opening are 112 by 136 cm. It will be necessary to leave 1.5 cm gaps on each side for foaming. So 1.5 on the right plus 1.5 on the left gives a total of 3 centimeters. We calculate the vertical size in the same way. The total dimensions of the window frame will be 109 by 133 cm.
Making a window frame. Layer one.
The first step is to take care of the lumber. We use scraps of 50-gauge coniferous boards of sufficient length. They sat for two seasons and dried out well.
You cannot use a damp board. If you get a damp board, you can do the following. After sawing it into blanks, place them on hot batteries. They will dry out in two to three months.If you don’t want to wait for this period, look for those who do carpentry work, do wooden kitchens, furniture and the like. They often have drying chambers in which drying takes no time at all. more than an hour. It won't be expensive.
We saw boards 50 mm thick into lengths. Our lengths are 109 by 133 cm. When installing the frame, one of these “lengths” will decrease by almost 10 cm. But more on that later. For now, it’s better to cut the scraps with a margin of a few centimeters. Let's make the length 115 by 140 cm. A little later it will become clear why this reserve is needed.
Next you need to cut the sections to a width of 65 mm. The thickness of the blanks will remain 50 mm, that is, the thickness of the board. At my circular saw There is a special bar that allows you to fix the cutting width:
Now we cut the blanks of the same width, and then additionally cut another blank 140 cm long, but wider - 7.5 cm.
If you try to measure the actual thickness of the “fifty” boards, you will find that none of them are exactly 50 millimeters. Their thickness will vary from 45 to somewhere up to 52 mm:
It's not scary. There are no boards of the same thickness in nature, and this should not be confusing.
And one more thing. We, of course, try to choose pieces without knots. But if you reject all the boards with knots, a lot of wood will go to waste. The frame will subsequently be glued together, and no more than two sides will remain “visible” to the workpieces. Therefore, in some cases it is possible to use blanks with knots. Here, for example, is a board that seems to be of no use. But after sawing into blanks, it is clear that only the middle block will be scrapped. The last two can be put into action.
Now we go through the blanks with a plane one at a time. We set the plane to almost the very minimum:
This will be enough to remove the “fringe” remaining from the board after sawing
Now you can roughly lay out the future window frame from the blanks:
We cut the workpieces to the calculated lengths. The time has come to say why these lengths were originally cut off with a margin. The fact is that when we go through workpieces with a plane, at the end of the plane it seems to “dive”, making a “wave”.
Thanks to the available length reserve, we saw off this “wave”. We mark the cutting location on both sides of the workpiece at once so that the cut does not “go to the side”
First, we cut the bars 133 cm long. The first bar is measured with a tape measure, the second, using the already sawn one.
The width of the frame, as we remember, is 109 cm, but the horizontal bars will be almost 10 cm shorter in length. We measure them in this way, using those that have already been sawn off with a length of 133 cm. We measure 109 cm taking them into account:
Now we polish the workpieces. On rough grinding To smooth out the small “waves” left by the plane, you can use a belt sander. There are models that are attached to a workbench. By the way, it’s very convenient:
For fine finishing, it is better to take a small vibration sander. We use it to chamfer, that is, we round off the sharp edges of the bars. Well, in the end, be sure to “zero” manually.
By the way, it is not necessary to carefully grind the workpieces on all sides. You can limit yourself to those edges that will later turn out to be “front”. It is not necessary to grind the edges, which will later “go into gluing”.
Is there any point in having grinding machines two types The draw frame is more powerful and is suitable for “covering areas.” It is, of course, far from a plane, but it can be considered as a certain intermediate stage between sandpaper and a plane.
Unlike a belt machine, a vibration-type machine, which is small in power, is easier to hold in the hand and allows you to process places that are inaccessible to draw frame. It is good to use for fine finishing also because its sandpaper is attached with Velcro. Fine sandpaper “sits” on this Velcro much better. Coarse sandpaper falls off too easily. And by the way, the disadvantage of this Velcro is that once the sandpaper has fallen off, it will not stick the second time.
Now we begin to assemble the frame. The narrower 50 mm side will fit the face. We apply glue to the ends of the short blanks, and “seat” the blanks onto the self-tapping screw, not forgetting that we must observe the right angle of abutment as carefully as possible. To do this we use a metal square:
After assembling the frame along the contour, we measure, saw, grind and also “seat” the middle vertical blank using glue and a self-tapping screw:
This is not the whole frame. We have collected only its first “layer”. It's time to take on the second “layer”.
Upon completion of the assembly of the first layer of the frame, it may turn out that the elements adjacent to each other do not fit together perfectly. And the point is not even that when sawing and processing it is very difficult to maintain perfectly accurate dimensions. Remember, a piece of wood is part of a once living tree. It has a certain internal tension and can retain the shape of an arc or be twisted into a “spiral”. You can’t see this by eye, and you can’t measure it during initial processing.
However, it is the flexibility of wood that will help us later, when joining, to “pull” all the elements to each other. Therefore, we simply eliminate the unevenness with a plane:
Making the frame. Second layer.
We take the remaining blanks 50 mm thick and 65 mm wide. We cut them in thickness into bars of 30 and 20 mm, the width of 65 mm remains the same.
Thinner bars, 20 mm thick, are set aside for now. We now need bars 30 mm thick and 65 mm wide. We also go through them with a plane and polish them.
First we bring finishing touch, relating to the first layer of the frame. We install a block that will separate the window from the lower sash. We make it from a 30 mm wide strip. We also attach it with glue and screws, not forgetting to maintain right angles of the entire structure.
Well, now we begin to make the second layer of the frame. We begin its installation from the same window partition that we installed last. This will make it easier to maintain the order in which the elements of the second layer will overlap the joints of the elements of the first layer. This will give the entire structure strength. We turn the frame “knot-free” face down and overlap the first part of the second layer. We carefully measure the elements to be joined, fasten them strictly in the center, and apply glue:
Press for a few seconds so that the glue sets and tighten the surfaces to be glued with a clamp or vice. Then, to maintain the gluing density, we place the elements on the screws.
Please note that the length of the glued strip is taken with reserve. It protrudes a few centimeters beyond the middle vertical bar. This can be seen in the right photo above. Next we attach the remaining parts of the second layer of the frame. It is not necessary to tighten the screws all the way. After the glue has dried, we will unscrew them.
If you remember, we made one vertical blank a little wider than the others, 75 mm instead of the usual 65 mm. We also cut it in thickness; we will need a part that is also 30 mm wide. This wide bar will “go” onto the middle vertical block. We need it to protrude beyond the block on both sides.
After the glue has dried, it's time to replace the screws with wooden dowels. Let's take dowels 8mm in diameter and 40mm long. The drill, accordingly, is also eight-millimeter. We drill holes for the tongues with a drill.
To avoid drilling too much, you can screw electrical tape onto the drill. Then, when drilling, the sufficient depth of the hole will be visible.
Fill the drilled holes with glue and hammer in the dowels.
Now that all the details of the second layer are installed, you can trim the “window” strip with which we started installing the second layer:
Sanding the dried dowels:
This is the frame we got:
Now you can start painting. If you are covering the frame without helpers, then it is better to paint the sides first, and then front part. This makes it easier to avoid leaks.
When you choose the color of stain and varnish in the store, make sure that the seller shows the color of the exact manufacturer whose products you are going to purchase. Some kind of “oak” or, say, “rosewood”, different manufacturers The color will vary greatly.
To say that the frame is completely ready, and we can move on to making the sashes, all we have to do is lay rubber seal. We take the so-called “D”-shaped. It is called that because its cross-section resembles the Latin “D”. This seal already has a sticky layer; no additional glue is needed.
Now the frame is ready. Let's move on to the doors.
