How to make a kitchen ax with your own hands. Do-it-yourself ax (67 photos) - we create a combat, decorative and working tool. Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be like
DIY ax
If you live in a private home or often spend time outdoors, an ax will definitely be one of the basic tools that you should always have on hand. When at home, it can be used for chopping wood or cutting large bones. And in nature, an ax is completely indispensable tool, because it will help you chop wood for a fire, put together a simple shelter from bad weather, and even come in handy in cutting up game.
Unfortunately, not all instruments sold on the market are of high quality. To get truly high-quality and handy ax, it is better to make it yourself. This way you will be sure that the handle will be comfortable and the blade will remain sharp. for a long time and will not let you down at the most crucial moment. In this article we will look not only at the features self-made axes, but we will also describe the main types of this tool so that you can choose the model that is most suitable for your purposes.
Types of axes and their characteristics
At first glance, it seems that there are no special differences between the axes, although in fact they differ depending on the area of use (Figure 1).
Among the main types there are:
- Cleaver: used primarily for cutting firewood. It is this type of ax that is most often made independently, because it does not require any special skills. A distinctive feature of the cleaver is its heavy weight and cone-shaped blade. Due to its heaviness, the tool is excellent for cutting large logs or hard wood.
- Carpentry: Usually such a tool is light and small, since its sharpened blade is used for precise and accurate work with wood.
- Taiga: This ax is great for hunting and survival in wildlife in general, because with its help you can chop wood for a fire, clear the territory, build a shelter, and even partially butcher the hunted game.
- Tsalda: This model is also called a tourist axe, because its shape and sharpness of the blade are excellent for clearing the area from dense bushes.
- Kitchen: It has a sharp and durable double blade, but is used exclusively for cutting thick bones or frozen meat.
In addition, a lumberjack ax or ax is distinguished as a separate one. It has a long handle and a wide, sharp blade. However, this type has a limited scope of application, since it can only be used for cutting down trees.
We reviewed the main types of axes only briefly, but if this information is not enough, we will provide a more detailed description of the main types to make it easier for you to decide on the model of the tool for self-production.
Combat
A battle ax is more likely not a carpentry or tourist tool, but a very dangerous weapon that was used in ancient times in Rus' and by the Scandinavian Vikings (Figure 2).
Figure 2. Reproductions of battle axes IN this moment this weapon has lost its relevance, but for lovers of historical antiquity, information about making a Viking ax close to the original with your own hands may be interesting.
First of all, we should highlight the interesting shape of such an ax. Its blade narrows slightly towards the center and widens towards the edge. This was done so that the ax would serve as both a reliable weapon in battle and a good helper in everyday life.
By the way, the ancient Vikings built their famous drag boats with just such axes, and then plundered neighboring settlements using the same axes as weapons.
Another one distinctive feature of this type - in a long handle, which made it possible to comfortably hold the weapon in the hand and make large swings during battle.
Wood
A wooden ax is of no value either as a household tool or as a weapon, because its main difference is that not only the handle, but also the blade is made of wood. Moreover, no matter how strong the wood is, the finished tool will not be able to cope with chopping firewood or cutting other hard materials(Figure 3).
Figure 3. Wooden crafts perform exclusively decorative functions In fact, it is a kind of costume element of a certain historical era, which may be needed during a masquerade or other similar event. However, if you are interested in how to make an almost real ax out of wood with your own hands, then we can clarify that the handle will have to be cut in exactly the same way as for a regular tool, but the blade will have to be hewn out of durable wood according to a ready-made template. Assembled structure You can decorate the pattern by burning or painting.
Hunting
A hunting ax is on the list of basic tools that must be included in the equipment of any hunter. Without this tool, it will be almost impossible to start a fire or build a simple shelter from the weather (Figure 4).
Contrary to popular belief, a hunting ax has nothing in common with a massive felling tool, although it is often used for the same purposes.
The basic requirements that a hunter's ax must meet are the following:
- Compact size that allows you to carry the instrument with you over long distances without much discomfort.
- Ergonomic design that allows long time operate tools without excessive fatigue.
- The power and sharpness of the blade are also not the least important parameters. The sharpness of the ax will determine how quickly you can chop branches to light a fire.
Figure 4. Models for hunters It is believed that a high-quality hunter’s ax should weigh no more than 750 grams with a total length of 30-40 cm. However, many outdoor enthusiasts, given the disadvantages of such small hatchets, still prefer to take more massive axes with them when hunting, which will help just chop thin branches, but also chop fairly large and hard logs.
Taiga
Of all types of axes, the taiga ax is considered the most versatile and indispensable during a hike or hunt. It has a relatively light weight, and the piercing surface has a small area, which allows you to drive cutting edge as deep as possible even into the hardest wood (Figure 5).
Figure 5. Taiga model of the tool If you are planning to make a taiga ax for personal use with your own hands, you should take into account that it is characterized by a special sharpening of the blade. Its rear edge is much smaller and thinner than the front, which ensures the high piercing characteristics of the tool.
How to make an ax step by step
Experienced hunters prefer to make axes with their own hands, because in this case you can create an absolutely unique tool, adapted to your personal preferences and the functions that the tool will perform in the future.
Since the taiga ax is considered the highest quality and most versatile, we will present detailed instructions and tips for making this particular model.
We select materials
The first stage of making a tool will be the selection of suitable materials, not only for the blade, but also for the handle. In this case, it should be taken into account that the ease of further use will directly depend on the shape and length of the handle, so it is better to make the handle oval and slightly curved.
Some lovers of folk crafts are interested in whether it is possible to make a whole stone ax and how to do it correctly. Of course, it is possible to carve such an imitation out of stone, especially if we are talking exclusively about a blade, but using such a tool in everyday life, and even more so while hunting, will be very problematic.
Theoretically, it is possible to make an entirely metal cast ax and put a rubber pad on the handle, which will prevent the hand from slipping while using the tool. But it’s still better to make the handle wooden and the blade made of metal.
It is better to use oak, maple, birch or ash wood as a material for the handle, since these species tolerate vibration well during impacts on a hard surface. It is advisable to prepare the wood in the fall and dry it in a dark place throughout the year. If you use damp wood, it will dry out over time and will not hold securely in the lug.
It is impossible to make a high-quality ax blade at home, so you will have to buy it at the market or in a store building materials. When choosing a workpiece, pay attention to the presence of GOST markings, which indicates that you are buying truly high-quality steel, and not a homemade blade melted down from old rails. It is also necessary to inspect the hole for the handle: it should be cone-shaped. Only in this case will the blade hold securely on the handle. In addition, carefully inspect the blade itself: it should be perfectly smooth, sharp and without any defects or nicks.
Preparing the template
A cardboard template will be needed first of all to make the handle. On cardboard you need to draw a future handle of the required shape and size, and then transfer this drawing to wood and cut it out using carpentry tools. Thanks to this algorithm of actions, you can create a handle with optimal ergonomics (Figure 6).
Figure 6. Necessary templates for making a tool with your own hands If you are interested in how to make a high-quality taiga ax from an old double-sided ax handle, then you should immediately clarify that you will need a template in this case as well. The fact is that the taiga ax differs from an ordinary carpenter's ax precisely in the shape of the blade. In order not to take risks and not give it a shape “by eye”, it is better to immediately use a template. Then the workpiece will have optimal shape and size.
Billet production
If you bought a ready-made ax head in a store or market, all you have to do is attach it to the handle. But, if you prefer to make a blank according to drawings from scratch at home, for example, from an old axe, you will need some advice on technology and design.
To do this you need to do the following:
- Take an old ax head, and it is advisable to choose a product with a weight of no more than 1400-1600 grams.
- The front protrusion of the blade must be cut down flush with the butt. It is in order to make an accurate cut that you will need a template. Despite the fact that a deviation of 5-8 degrees is considered acceptable, in real taiga axes the edge of the blade is exactly level with the butt.
- The back of the blade should be made slightly rounded by sawing off some of the metal so that the entire touching surface of the blade has no corners. For this purpose, you can use a regular grinder, but a more accurate cut will be obtained using an emery wheel with medium grain.
- In the inner part of the blade you need to cut out a small semicircle, which will help you hold the ax more comfortably when carrying out more precise work. In addition, this semicircle will help to securely hang the ax from a branch, and the head itself will weigh about 200 grams less without losing the main mechanical properties axe.
Figure 7. Blade manufacturing procedure At the final stage, you can cut off the upper parts of the butt so that it becomes more rounded. This will help increase the maneuverability of the tool, but if you are satisfied with it in its original form, this procedure can be omitted (Figure 7).
Hewing out an ax
No less important role The production of its handle also plays a role in the manufacture of a high-quality ax. To make the tool comfortable to use, the handle should have an ergonomic shape, but at the same time be as simple as possible (Figure 8).
You can make it as follows:
- The prepared dried wood is trimmed parallel to the grain. During the process, you need to ensure that the finished handle is slightly longer than the original template.
- The upper part of the handle, which will be inserted into the eye, needs to be made slightly wider than the main one.
- To cut the ax handle more accurately, it is better to make small transverse cuts on the workpiece, not reaching the edge of the handle by 4-5 cm. This will help to quickly and easily remove the remaining wood.
Figure 8. Handle manufacturing steps All hand transitions and angles are made using a chisel, and when the handle is completely made, it is sanded until smooth so that it is beautiful.
Water-repellent treatment
Since the taiga ax involves constant use on outdoors, it is advisable to treat it with special water-repellent compounds. This will help protect the tool from constant exposure to moisture and minimize further restoration of the handle.
To process the handle of a carpentry tool, you can use any protective composition for wood. All of them protect the material from rot and deterioration under constant exposure to high humidity.
Handle attachment
When the head and handle are ready, you can begin to directly assemble the parts of the ax. To do this, cut the top of the handle lengthwise and crosswise and cut into five small pieces of hardwood.
We take a piece of gauze, soak it in resin and use it to unwind the upper part of the handle so that it fits better into the hole on the piercing nozzle. Next, using a hammer, we hammer the handle into the head of the ax, and secure the prepared pieces of wood in the upper part of the ax handle (Figure 9).
Figure 9. Stages of assembly of the finished product Blade sharpening
To give the tool the necessary sharpness, you need to properly sharpen the ax (Figure 10). The sharpening angle directly depends on what kind of work you plan to do with the axe.
Figure 10. Blade sharpening mechanism For example, in order for blows with the blade of a taiga ax to be accurate, sharpening is carried out at an angle of 30-35 degrees. For comparison, a lumberjack's ax, designed for working with raw wood, is sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees. As a rule, a special grinding wheel. Since this tool requires caution, it is better to make the length of the ax long enough so that you can comfortably hold the tool at a sufficiently large distance and at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the grinding wheel itself. In this case, the rotation speed of the grinding wheel should be low so that the metal does not overheat, and the blade is sharpened to the highest possible quality.
We make a case for storage and transportation
To make the ax convenient to carry, a special case is made for it from thick leather or canvas (Figure 11). To do this, it is enough to create a pattern for the future cover and firmly sew the parts together. However, if you are going to wield a large ax in the forest, it is not practical to make a special case for it, and you will either have to carry the tool without additional protection, or sew one separately for the blade.
Figure 11. Options for transport cases Many hunters and outdoor enthusiasts prefer the latter option, as it makes it easier to carry the tool, which is extremely important if you were making axes yourself and the finished product is quite large in size.
Professionals recommend taking special care when choosing materials for making a homemade axe. For example, it is better to harvest wood for making a handle in the fall and then dry it in a dark place throughout the year. But the future handle will become even more durable if it is dried for five years. Of course, if you don’t have that much time, you can easily wait a year, but then treating the finished pen with water-repellent compounds will become mandatory.
It is better to buy a blade from construction stores or on the market, and preference should be given to products with GOST markings. This way you will be sure that the steel has undergone the necessary hardening and will not crumble or lose its sharpness when cutting down trees. In addition, when making an ax, you need to decide in advance for what purposes you will use it. The sharpening angle of the blade will depend on this, because axes for cutting wood carpentry work or hunts differ precisely in this parameter.
You can see what making an ax with your own hands looks like in practice in the video.
Hello everyone, today we will make one useful thing for the kitchen, like a kitchen hatchet. Using this homemade product, you can chop or cut vegetables, meat, bones and other products. The author used an old one as material. saw blade made of thick steel. As a result, the hatchet became weighty, which makes it convenient. The product was also quenched and tempered, which made the steel durable. The handle covers are made of wood, which is impregnated with epoxy resin; as a result, such a handle will not be afraid of water. The only drawback of the chosen steel is that it rusts, but if the ax is used frequently, over time the steel will develop a patina. You can make the patina yourself, using etching and so on. If the homemade product interests you, I suggest you study the project in more detail!
Materials and tools used
List of materials:
- old saw blade (made of good steel);
- wood for overlays;
- brass rods for pins;
- epoxy resin and dye;
- wood oil.
List of tools:
- ;
- drilling machine;
- ;
- files;
- sandpaper;
- oven, oil, oven (for heat treatment);
- marker;
- orbital sander.
Hatchet making process:
Step one. Ax profile
Before cutting an axe, it is advisable to check the steel for hardening. Otherwise, it can be very disappointing later when the product suddenly refuses to harden. To save steel, some modern saw blades are made from poor metal; such “steel” cannot be hardened.
The author uses an old thick saw blade as the starting material. First, draw the desired profile of the hatchet on it with a pencil, and then draw it with a marker. That's all, you can start cutting, the author works with a grinder. Our metal is quite thick, so cutting will take quite a long time. As for problem areas that cannot be cut out with a grinder, we cut them out in pieces.
As a result, we will get a primary ax profile with uneven edges after cutting with a grinder. We eliminate all these sins by grinding, here we need a belt sander. The workpiece will heat up quite strongly, cool it periodically in water. The author makes the final modification of the profile manually, using files.
Step two. Descents
We draw out the slopes on the axe; there will be quite a lot of grinding required here, so we again turn to the help of a belt sander. To make the bevels symmetrical, draw a centering line along the blade. When grinding, steel should not be overheated; under no circumstances should it turn blue.
We also drill all the necessary holes in the axe, since hardening is required next.
Step three. Heat treatment
Let's start hardening the axe; to do this, the steel needs to be heated to a temperature of just over 800°C. The ax should warm up evenly; it will glow in all places with the same red hue. Next, immerse the ax in oil and check whether the hardening was successful. If everything is done correctly and the ax is made of quality steel, it should not be scratched by a file.
Then be sure to temper, otherwise the steel will be very brittle and the blade may chip. For holidays we use the oven, the temperature is classically set at around 200°C. If the steel has been pre-ground, it will turn straw-colored after tempering.
Step four. Grinding
After hardening, the steel will be covered in soot and scale; the whole thing needs to be cleaned off. We arm ourselves with orbital grinder and polish the hatchet well until it shines.
Step five. Overlays
We make linings for the handle, here we need wood, a block or a thick board will do. As a decoration, we drill holes in the workpiece and fill it with epoxy resin and dye. The author used a silicone mold to pour the resin.
When the epoxy resin dries, we need to cut the workpiece lengthwise to create two halves, which will become the overlays. For cutting, the author uses a band saw, but you can also do it with a hacksaw. We grind the workpieces well and you can cut out the primary profile.
Step six. Installation of overlays and completion
We cut brass rods that will be pins, and also mix epoxy glue. We glue the handle, not forgetting to thoroughly coat the pins with glue. We tighten everything well with clamps and let the glue dry.
Well, when the glue dries, we set the desired handle profile; the author carries out this work manually, so as not to remove excess. First we work with files, and then we switch to sandpaper and grind the handle until it is perfectly smooth. Finally, we coat the handle with oil or varnish, this will return the epoxy resin to its former transparency, and the handle will look like a masterpiece.
A universal tool that may be needed at the dacha, on a hike in the forest, or just on vacation near a river, or at home for household purposes, is an ax. Despite its simple design, this device has many uses and varies in manufacturing methods and quality.
Main characteristics
All types of axes are divided into three main groups:
- splitting axes;
- for felling work in the forest;
- universal tools for construction and household purposes.
Within each selected group, there are varieties that are determined by purpose and characteristics components. Taking into account the most important parameters will help you decide which ax is best to choose. It is worth noting the fact that you simply cannot do without an ax on a summer cottage!
Weight parameters
The possibility of its use in wood processing depends on how heavy the tool is. The minimum value is considered to be a mass of 0.9 kg. Lighter models are used only for a limited range of household and household purposes when finishing small workpieces, for example, for sharpening wedges.
For standard work with wood you will need a tool of 0.9-1.7 kg. It will be effective both when chopping medium-thick firewood and when carrying out construction work. Heavier splitting axes weighing 2.2-2.5 kg are used for chopping large firewood. They have a longer ax handle.
Blade shape and sharpening
In practice, axes with three types of butts are used:
- wide, designed for felling timber;
- average, having a universal purpose;
- narrow - used when carrying out neat carpentry work.
Features of the shape of the blade can be assessed from the photo of the ax. Straight sharpening allows you to deliver high-quality chopping blows, but curved sharpening is suitable for both chopping and piercing movements. For example, a rounded blade small sizes focused on greater penetration into the tree and cutting fibers in the transverse direction.
With a sharpening angle of up to 40 degrees, increased penetration into the workpiece is ensured, although the dulling speed will be higher. In cleavers, the degree of sharpening at different edges of the blade will vary.
Blade material
For carpenter's axes, the blade is made by stamping low-carbon steel. Greater strength of the tool for lumberjacks is provided by forging steel U7 and 60G.
It should be remembered that the use of mild steel causes the tool to quickly become dull. Blades made of hard or hardened steel are prone to chipping.
Making an ax
The length of the ax depends on the purpose of the tool. The most comfortable indicator is 50-70 cm. But we must remember that the swing and force of the blow depend on the length. Therefore for more heavy work a tool larger than 70 cm is required.
The ax handle can be metal, including one with a special rubber lining. This is a more durable design, but it has a big drawback - it does not dampen vibration well.
The force of the blow, together with the resistance of the workpiece, is absorbed by the axe. And therefore it is recommended to use wood, in particular birch, for its manufacture. But cheaper and more accessible pine dampens vibration much worse.
A tool with an oak handle is suitable for lumberjacks. The handle itself should be comfortable, without knots or chips. At the end of the ax there is a thickening and a hole for fastening.
Types of axes
Depending on the purpose and purpose of use, you can select optimal design tool. There are various types of axes on sale.
Tourist
This is a lighter and more compact tool that can have a rounded blade shape. It is sharp and can be used as a knife. Handle length up to 50 cm. Supplied with a protective cover.
Such an ax is quite expensive, cannot be used for chopping, and rust often appears. Popular brands include Geter Gator II and Expedition HB-040.
Household and catering
In everyday life or in food establishments, axes are used for chopping meat or bones. The design features a wide blade made of durable steel with an angled sharpening. This is a heavy and durable model.
The big disadvantage is the need to use physical strength for work. Also, the wooden ax handle can dry out. The products “Meat Chopper” and “Trud” VACHA S901 are known.
For firewood
The catalog of axes in this category with the best quality includes products from TUTAHI, KRAFTOOL Rhine and Universal.
For these purposes, models with a blade made of hardened steel with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees and wooden ax. This ensures simplicity and efficiency in operation.
Bilateral
This tool has two identical high-carbon steel blades that provide excellent balancing. The sharpening angle can be different, and the ax handle can be replaceable.
However, this is a traumatic and heavy design, excluding the possibility of use as percussion instrument. Experts recommend models such as SOG F12 and OCHSENKOPF.
For wood cutting
A large ax with a long handle for a strong blow. There is a rounded blade. The instrument has a narrow specialization and is used only for its intended purpose. Lumberjacks may find HULKAFORS, SCANDINAVIAN FOREST AX or WETTERLINGS AMERICAN FOREST AX brands suitable.
Plotnitsky
This is a well-balanced tool with a sharp blade and a comfortable handle. You cannot use it for chopping, and after purchasing the product you need to select the required sharpening characteristics.
You can choose Gardena 1000A 08714-48.000.00 or Wetterlings Hjartum Carpenter’s Ax for this purpose. The Izhevsky ax is also popular.
Forged
The highest quality, strongest and most durable products. A forged ax is most often made according to individual orders. The Taiga brands and products from the Phoenix workshop are popular.
Cleaver
This ax has an elongated handle, a steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees. This is a highly specialized instrument that is well balanced. Used for processing thick and dense wood. Experts recommend using VIPUKIRVES or Council Tool Hudson Bay Ax products.
Dachny
Axes “DACHNIK” standart SZAN330, T-03-1 or VOREL 33107 will help you decide everyday problems on suburban area. Such models are suitable for chopping firewood and are used when cutting logs.
They are distinguished by their versatility, a blade made of durable steel and a wooden handle, which, however, can dry out after 5 years.
Making an ax with your own hands
If you are interested in the question of how to make an ax, then remember that you will not be able to make a blade from scratch yourself. You can only give a regular blade the desired shape by processing it with a grinder or an emery wheel.
But it’s quite possible to make an ax handle. To do this you need:
- select a workpiece with a diameter of more than 120 mm and a length 200 mm longer than the planned handle;
- dry for several months at a temperature of 22-24 degrees and a humidity of 15%;
- using an ax or large knife, remove excess wood in accordance with the outlined contour;
- carry out processing with a chisel and hammer.
Now it is important to learn how to mount an ax correctly. This is done using gauze and epoxy resin. The presence of a wedge provides better strength. After this, grinding is done, and the ax handle is varnished. Sharpening is done on a machine or manually.
An ax is a useful assistant both in the country and on a hike and when working in the forest. You just need to choose the right one the desired model, focusing on the required characteristics and workmanship of a particular instance.
Photo of an ax
The ax is one of the oldest tools used by man in his activities. It has come a long way, accompanying the evolution of man from a stone ancestor to a modern product made of steel of the highest quality. The scope of application of this tool has the widest range of all kinds industrial production, and for home use. The need for its use will not decrease in the near future.
Tool classification
Depending on the area of application, they may have different shape designs and size.
The specialization of this tool can be classified as follows:
- Lumberjack's axe.
- Large and small carpenter's axe.
- Cleaver for harvesting firewood.
- Tourist or hunting camp hatchet.
- Hatchet for the kitchen.
- All kinds of souvenir axes imitating ancient military weapons.
- Sports tomahawk for throwing at targets.
- Firemen's axe.
- Butcher's axe.
Some design differences
Specialization may give rise to some design differences axes, but basically any of them consists of two parts: a working chopping metal part and a handle attached to it, called an ax handle. The ax handle is mainly made of wood.
Some models of tourist and kitchen samples can be made entirely of metal with wooden or plastic overlays to give the flat metal handle the required shape.
The lumberjack's tool is distinguished by a rounded blade and an elongated axe. It is most often used for preparing brushwood from branches. A special type of ax, a splitting ax, is used to prepare firewood from logs. Its metal part is more massive than that of ordinary axes, and has a more obtuse angle at the pointed cutting part.
The firemen's weapon also has a longer ax handle. In addition, the back side of the metal part, called the butt, may differ significantly for such axes. U ordinary tools it is simply flat, but for firefighters this part can be made in the form of a hook or a sharp narrow wedge.
The butt of a kitchen hatchet is usually made in the form of a hammer for beating meat, and the ax handle is round cross section manufactured at lathe.
Carpenter's axes
This type of ax is probably the most used in the world. Even with modern technologies no construction can be completed without such an ancient tool. Its versatility is unique.
Carpenter's axes are large, they are used for chipping logs, for making all kinds of notches during construction wooden houses and other buildings.
Small hatchets that are used for smaller jobs.
The chopping blade of carpenter's axes is usually smooth and very sharp.
There are various types of ax handle. Its shape generally depends on the personal preferences of the owner, aimed mainly at ease of working with such a tool. Often a good ax is the face of a carpenter as a specialist. Good master values this instrument more than any other. Therefore, he never uses a purchased ax, but makes it for himself. However, in in capable hands it has to be changed very rarely.
Manufacturing methods
For ordinary person you have to use an ax most often when working on summer cottage. Here, along with the work inherent in such a tool, not very qualified workers are used to various works. Therefore, axes, as a rule, do not withstand prolonged use, and they have to be changed quite often.
Most suitable material for the handle is birch. It is durable, relatively light and smooth material to work with. For zealous owners It will be useful to place birch blocks to dry. Birch should be dried for a long time, at least 3-5 years, and always without exposure to sun rays. For the manufacture of good ax All you need is well-dried birch. Otherwise, it will dry out in the ax itself, the handle will begin to dangle, which can lead to significant inconvenience in work and injury.
There are several in various ways how to make an ax handle correctly. But all of them can be divided depending on technological equipment:
- Using electric woodworking mechanisms ( a circular saw, planing machine, various types of grinding).
- Manually from ready-made boards using a plane, rasp, and so on.
- Handmade from birch logs.
- With a minimum of tools.
Technological production of an ax handle
First of all, it is cut out on woodworking machines. necessary preparation. All its dimensions (width, thickness and length) are made with a small margin for further adjustment.
The thickness and width are determined by the size of the ax's entrance hole, which is called the eye and is located at the bottom. It must be remembered that the upper outlet hole is much wider than the lower one, and they should not be confused when taking measurements.
For the convenience of further processing, it is advisable to plan the workpiece on a planing machine in order to make its cross-section close to a triangular shape with acute angle at the bottom of the future ax handle. Using a cardboard template, a drawing of an ax of the chosen shape is applied to the workpiece. A template can be made by making a drawing according to the dimensions of an old broken tool, or you can find a suitable shape of an ax in specialized literature or on the Internet.
It is most convenient to cut rounded areas using an electric jigsaw. Next, smooth out all the corners using a wide chisel and pre-grind the product. It is not worth processing it completely to working condition, because if it is directly connected to the metal part of the tool, when significant forces and impacts are applied, the wood may split, and all the final finishing work will be done in vain.
Mechanical grinding should be done on a flat surface. Using a regular stone sharpening disc is not effective. It is better to make a special disk, with the same hole in the center as the corresponding sharpening stone.
It is better to use the material for the circle from hard electrically insulating plastic, at least 5 mm thick. Sandpaper is glued onto it using PVA glue. You should know that you should only use waterproof paper. A simple one will quickly break. In addition, a circle covered with waterproof sandpaper can be washed to remove wood dust. hot water. Therefore, if such a circle is made from plywood, then washing it will be problematic. Plywood can become deformed when exposed to water.
On such a wheel it will be convenient to grind the smooth and convex parts of the axe, especially the part that is inserted inside the ax. This must be done very evenly so as not to weaken the thickness of the wooden part.
For sanding internal curves, it is good to have a vertical sander. You can also make equipment for it yourself. To do this, you will need to turn a wooden cylinder on a lathe with a through internal hole corresponding to the shaft of the engine being used, and paste it on the outside with waterproof sandpaper.
The finished cylinder should be tightly placed on the shaft of a vertically mounted engine. For grinding the ax itself, the diameter of the cylinder is not so important, but the thickness of the walls from the inner hole to the outer surface should be quite massive, at least 10-15 mm.
Ax head
The upper edge of the ax, which should be inserted inside the ax, is made slightly conical so that it fits tightly enough. Before this, perpendicular axial lines are drawn at the end so that during the work, focusing on their location, the workpiece does not skew in any direction.
Before the final mounting of the ax, a cut is made under the wedge. Its depth should not exceed the width of the ax itself.
How to properly place an ax on an ax handle is shown in the figure:
It is possible to make a wooden wedge from another, softer type of wood, which is more susceptible to compression than birch. To prevent the wedge from jumping out of the ax handle even at the slightest dryness, it is advisable to lubricate it waterproof glue. This is necessary in case the ax gets into water.
After the wooden one, you can additionally wedge it with a metal wedge. Such wedges are specially forged in a forge, making notches along its edges for better adhesion to the wood.
It happens that the upper hole of the ax is larger than the lower one not only in thickness, but also in width. Small gaps remain on the side of the inserted axe, into which additional wooden wedges also have to be driven.
If the connection of the ax with the ax handle went well, proceed to the final finishing of the wood using finer-grained sandpaper. This process is done manually.
Making an ax by hand
Despite the apparent complexity of this process, it is quite possible for a more or less skilled owner to make an ax handle without using electrified equipment. Especially if there are boards available suitable size. If there are no boards, then the blank on the ax handle can be cut out of a birch log. The log for these purposes should be selected, if possible, without knots and with a straight-layer structure.
To grind the ax handle using sandpaper, it must be secured in a vice. Cut narrow, fairly long strips of sanding material. They will be very convenient for the grinding process, wrapping strips around the ax and moving the ends of the strip back and forth. In this position working surface sandpaper fits tightly to the plane being processed without much effort on the part of the person.
Working with purchased axes
If a person does not want to bother making an ax handle on his own, ready-made samples are always available for sale. Of course, serious manufacturers of such parts know well how to make an ax handle correctly. But still, when buying it, you should adhere to some rules so as not to 
make mistakes. First of all, you should very carefully measure the entrance hole of the existing ax. The discrepancies in sizes between different axes are sometimes very significant and individual, especially if this tool was taken from my grandfather’s stock. The main condition is that the dimensions of the acquired ax should not be less than the required values.
You should also pay attention to the quality of the wood of the finished ax handle. The density of the structure, the presence of cracks and the possibility of chipping when inserting it.
Work with a purchased ax will be limited to adjusting its end part, which directly fits into the eye.
Sharpening and operation
Carpenter's axes require the most careful sharpening. It's okay if the sharpness of these tools allows you to sharpen a pencil or even make a toothpick.
Before sharpening the cutting edge of the ax, you need to check the hardness of the metal and, if it turns out to be too soft, you will need to additionally harden the ax by exposure high temperatures. It is best to do this in a forge, trusting a professional specialist.
The tool blade is sharpened after connecting it to the wooden handle.
Like an ax, the picture below explains.
Useful instructions
The correct use of an ax can be described by following some basic rules:
- Try not to cut metal products.
- Carefully check the wood being processed for the presence of foreign solid objects in its body.
- Do not use the tool in a capacity that is not inherent to it: as a lever, hoe or shovel.
- Do not throw the tool onto a hard surface, especially from a great height.
- Do not store it for a long time open place exposed to sunlight or in an extremely humid place.
If treated with care, the ax and its wooden handle will serve for a long time and please its owner.
To those who live in own home, a tool such as a taiga ax is often needed at the dacha and on hikes. Work tool good quality is expensive and hard to find.
An ax from the market is not always of good quality. Therefore, we will make our own ax using improvised means.
Types of axes
Let's look at the variations of axes:
- A cleaver is a heavy cone-shaped axe. Due to its heavy weight, it is well suited for cutting large, hard wood.
- Carpenter's - light in weight and size, has a pointed blade. Used for careful, precise, careful work with wood.
- Taiga - suitable for cutting down trees, harvesting trees, building a hut, removing bark and branches.
- Tsalda – designed for clearing the area of bushes.
- Kitchen (cook's) - intended only for chopping bones. It is a small hatchet with a short handle and a large “blade”.
- Lumberjack - used only for cutting down trees. Consists of a long ax and a wide, sharp blade.
Of all the above types, the taiga ax is the most necessary and useful.
Distinctive features taiga ax:
- Light weight.
- Small piercing surface area (makes it possible to drive it as deep as possible into the wood).
- Specific sharpening of the blade (the back edge is much smaller, thinner than the front.
This feature is made in order to use this type ax like a cleaver (if the blow is delivered correctly. A regular ax has a blade of the same shape for precise work with a tree).
Making a taiga ax
Handle material
The functions of an ax are primarily influenced by its shape and length. The handle must be curved shape, and the cross-section is oval.
The best types of trees for the handle are maple, oak, ash, and birch. Since these types of wood withstand vibration well upon impact.
Wood harvesting begins in autumn
Dry in a dark place. Before use, wood must be stored for about one year, or better yet, five.
It is not advisable to use felled wood as it will dry out over time and will not stay in the eye.
Making a Cardboard Template
On a large cardboard sheet, outline the shape of the handle and apply it to wooden blank. The template will help us make a more accurate ax handle.
Preparing material for the handle
A block of one-year-old wood is hewn parallel to the grain. The blank for the handle should be longer than the template. We make the place that is inserted into the eyelet wider than the main part.
We outline the attached drawing on both sides, and do not forget to leave allowances. After inserting the upper part into the eyelet, we remove the excess wood.
Steps to cut an ax handle
Before cutting out the ax handle, you need to make transverse cuts, but so that they do not reach the line of the future handle by approximately 4-5 mm. Using a chisel, remove any remaining wood and excess allowances.
Ore transitions and corners are made by turning with a rasp. After the workpiece is made, sand it until smooth.
Buying a piercing part for a taiga hatchet
It is impossible to make a blade at home. In this case, here is a list of what you need to focus on when buying it at the market or in a hardware store:
- Availability of GOST marking (indicates the quality of the steel);
- The hole for the handle (eye) should be cone-shaped;
- The blade is smooth, without defects;
Collecting an ax
- We cut the upper part of the handle lengthwise and crosswise.
- We cut five pieces from hard trees.
- We wrap gauze soaked in resin around the top of the handle for better fit into the hole in the blade.
- Using a hammer, hammer in the handle.
- We hammer the prepared pieces into the cuts at the top of the axe.
- After the structure has dried, cut off the protruding parts of the wooden pieces.
Note!
Sharpening the piercing part of the taiga ax
Excellent performance of the hatchet is ensured by a properly sharpened blade. The sharpening angle depends on the activity you will perform with the axe.
The taiga ax is sharpened at an angle of 30-35 ̊. If they will be working with fresh wood, then we sharpen it at an angle of 25 ̊.
If you use a sharpening wheel for sharpening, then the ax handle must be held at an angle of 40-45 ̊. We reproduce the sharpening slowly and carefully.
If you have everything in stock necessary tools, photo of step-by-step making of an ax, then its creation will not take a lot of time, effort and money, and in return you will receive a high-quality ax made by yourself.
But do not forget that with a piercing part made of high-quality metal, the ax will last much longer and if the handle is treated with linseed oil, it will not rot and deteriorate.
Photo of ax with your own hands
Note!
Note!
