How to make an ax with your own hands from a simple ax and other materials: step-by-step instructions. Detailed instructions for making a taiga ax - tips and rules Making an ax with your own hands
Many people have an old rusty ax without a handle lying around in their garage or pantry, which should have been thrown away or brought to life a long time ago. I suggest interesting solution to restore it and turn it into a stylized Viking axe.
Materials:
- unnecessary axe;
- an ax or a block for its manufacture;
- paper from self-adhesive film for;
- acetone;
- any varnish
- table salt solution.
Restoration and artistic processing of an ax
First you need to clean the ax by removing the top rust.
After this, it is given a new shape to make it look like a Viking weapon. You will need to cut off the front corner of the blade, making it narrower. The back part needs to be rounded inward.
Trimming the ax in the front part is done with a grinder.
To quickly get the correct semicircle in the back, you should use a metal crown. Since it must be applied to the drilling surface along the entire perimeter, you will have to temporarily weld a piece of steel to it to increase the plane.
After drilling, the welded piece is cut off. The resulting workpiece already has the required shape, but looks rough. It needs to be sanded well. To do this, it is convenient to use a petal circle.
If deep potholes open during the grinding process, they need to be hidden. To do this, the defect is welded and then ground off.
Applying accessible tool you need to bring the ax to almost perfect smoothness.
The ax is stylized using artistic etching. Since this is a Viking weapon, it should be decorated with runes and ethnic Scandinavian patterns. For this laser printer The pattern chosen for etching is printed on a sheet of paper in a mirror image. To transfer the image, back paper from a self-adhesive film is used. You need to print on its glossy side, after tearing off the film.
The ax is wiped with acetone and placed in an oven preheated to 220 degrees Celsius.
As soon as it heats up, paper is glued to it and carefully smoothed through a cloth until the metal has cooled.
This is done on both sides of the axe. When it becomes cold, the stickers should be carefully torn off. As a result, paint will remain on the metal. Later, when etched, it will retain smooth steel underneath, and everything around it will become matte. Those parts of the ax that do not need to be etched should be painted with a thick layer of varnish.
In plastic or glass vessel A solution of table salt is prepared. Any piece of iron with a wire attached to the negative terminal of the car battery is immersed in it. The ax is also lowered into the water, but with the positive terminal attached. As a result, the etching process will begin in the container, accompanied by the release of gas from the solution. Gradually the liquid will turn rusty in color and become covered with dirty foam. You should wait 30-40 minutes. If you etch longer, the matte part of the pattern will become deeper, but the pattern itself under the paint may begin to erode.
An ax is a tool that appeared at the dawn of civilization, but people still use it to this day. Over time there appeared different types these tools. They will be useful in everyday life, hunting, hiking, etc. Such tools are sold in stores, but you can make them yourself. From our simple instructions you can learn how to make an axe. To do this, you will need reliable and durable materials and strict adherence to the instructions.
First, let's figure out what types of axes there are:
- Tourist. The dimensions and weight of the tool are small: 350 mm/0.5 kg. It is suitable for simple work.
- Household and catering. This tool is used at home, in the country, or in cafes and restaurants for cutting meat and chopping bones. An ax with a wide steel blade will last a long time.
- For firewood. The ax blade is made of hardened steel (sharpening 40-60°), the ax handle is made of wood. The tool is simple and convenient to use.
- Taiga. This device has a shape and dimensions that differ from the parameters of a regular ax. It is in camping and other harsh conditions.
- Plotnitsky. This ax has a sharp blade and a comfortable handle. It is not used for chopping wood.
- Cleaver. This hatchet easily splits logs.
- Combat. Battle axes- edged weapon. They are bought only as collectibles with documents.
Features of a homemade ax
Homemade axes self made– easy-to-use devices that will help you in your work. If the product is made correctly, a good result will not be long in coming. You can make a simple ax from wood with your own hands or make a more difficult option. In this case, you will create the tool yourself, and it will exactly meet your requirements. To make a hatchet correctly, follow our instructions.
Tools and materials
Before making an axe, choose your materials and tools. How convenient the tool will be to use depends on how well the handle is made. The blade is made of steel. The handle is made from the following wood: birch, ash, oak and maple. You can make a Viking ax or other type of tool with your own hands from a simple axe. To make a hatchet, you will need these tools:
- welding machine;
- abrasive sharpener;
- file;
- magnetic corner;
- sandpaper;
- sharpening disc (blade sharpening);
- marker (marking);
- Bulgarian;
- chisel;
- clamp.
DIY ax
Any ax can be made at home. By following simple rules, you can make simple, hunting, taiga, tourist, throwing or decorative hatchets, tools from car springs with your own hands.
You will also be able to change old instrument or completely remake it, creating a new and easy-to-use ax.
For example, make a taiga ax from an old one with your own hands. To do this kind of work yourself, you should prepare drawings in advance.
From a spring
A small tool is made from a spring from a car with your own hands. He can become both a worker and an original decorative item, similar to a Viking axe. Whatever you have in mind, it can be easily accomplished if you follow all the steps consistently. Just choose the right option, watch the video and get to work.
Tool made from durable and durable materials will last a long time. You can do this by following these tips:
- Take a used car spring (width - 10 cm, length - approximately 40 cm), using a previously prepared template with a marker, draw the contours of an ax on its surface.
- Cut the product along the contour with a grinder, then sand the workpiece well to give it the appropriate shape.
- An ax handle can be a leg from an old chair. For fastening, make several holes in the spring.
- Saw off any excess from the leg, then saw it in half. Drill 3 notches in both halves. Then assemble the handle, secure it with screws and bolts, and then grind it using the machine.
- Sharpen your blade.
From reinforcement
The reinforcement is very strong and durable; splitting axes are made from it. These hatchets will be useful to you at the dacha, during camping and other conditions. They are well suited for chopping wood. You will make a durable ax from reliable material, and it will serve you for many years. Mark the parameters on paper. Please include all measurements as they may vary. The handle of a hatchet can be large, medium or small, like its blade. How to make a hatchet with your own hands from rebar:
- Take 2 reinforcement bars (length 50 cm) and blanks (8 pieces) from which the upper and lower squares will be made.
- Use a welding machine to weld a couple of squares, and then the posts.
- It is better to make the blade from steel up to 10 mm thick. Weld it to the fittings too.
- Sharpen your blade.
From a circular saw
It is possible to make an ax with your own hands from a circular circular saw. A durable and strong tool is made from a carved disk. In this case, the disk will not need to be pre-hardened, since it has already been hardened.
A product made from a circular saw will be very reliable. A hatchet from this tool is made as follows:
- Sketch the product, then cut out the finished template. It must be placed on the cutting disc.
- Using an impeller, cut along the contour of the template.
- Heat the part with a torch, then drill holes.
- Wipe the ax thoroughly with sandpaper.
- Make a handle from wood. Apply glue to both halves of the handle, then secure the 2 screws.
- Sand the handle, then coat its surface with varnish.
From stone
A strong and reliable ax is made from natural stone. Such raw materials will produce durable blades. Just keep in mind that such work will be labor-intensive and time-consuming. But the result is worth it, because the ax will serve you for a long time. These types of stones are suitable: granite, quartzite and sandstone. The best solution for such a tool - an oak handle. Oak products are more reliable and wear-resistant. A workpiece made of smooth wood, without bulges or knots, is suitable.
Making an ax handle is simple: cut the wood, use a template to give it a shape that will be comfortable to hold in your hands. Sand the stone so that the material can fit as closely as possible to the end of the handle and is well fixed to it. No need to apply special machines and other equipment. It is enough to remove it from the surface of the stone surface layer. The handle cannot be made from raw wood: when it dries, it will decrease in size. Because of this, you will not be able to use the axe.
Making an ax handle with your own hands
A good result in your work largely depends on how well the tool is made. It is important that you feel comfortable using it. The handle of the hatchet must also be made correctly. It happens that the cutting edge becomes dull, the piercing part can fly off, etc. Craftsmen advise making an ax handle at home so that it fully meets your requirements. How to make an ax handle for an ax with your own hands? The diagrams are well illustrated in the photo. A reliable handle is suitable for making a Viking ax with your own hands from an old axe.
Sketch and template of an ax
To make an ax handle the right size, you should first make a sketch and template from thick cardboard. The drawn handle is placed on cardboard and outlined with a pencil. This sample will help you cut a wooden handle according to the specified parameters, and working with such a tool will be convenient and easy. The sizes are determined depending on the person’s height and build.
The result itself depends on how accurately you take measurements and how carefully you prepare the template. You can make a taiga or any other ax out of an old one with your own hands.
Wood for an ax
A do-it-yourself wooden ax is made from hard and durable wood. The durable ax handle is resistant to impacts and other damage. Masters recommend hardwoods tree. The material is thoroughly dried, sometimes in a special drying chamber. The raw materials must be dry so that the ax does not change its shape in case of high humidity.
Pay attention to which direction the fibers are directed. The durable hatchet handle withstands impacts well and does not crack. The fibers on such a handle are evenly spaced and there are no weaves on it.
Blade sharpening
After you make the tool, you will need to sharpen the blade. A sharpened ax will become dull over time, and it is advisable for you to learn how to sharpen it yourself. It is better to sharpen the ax with your own hands first than to work with a dull blade. Sharpen the product according to the template; it is prepared in advance. It is possible to sharpen a metal ax with your own hands using tin. Axes can also be sharpened with a grinder. Whatever method you choose, prepare protective equipment: respirator, goggles, face shield. Follow safety precautions.
Making a storage case
When you have made a taiga or other ax from an old one with your own hands, sew a bag for it. It is safe to transport and store tools in it. Make a case from durable material, taking into account the size of the ax. There are three simple options:
- You can easily make a case for an ax with your own hands from a bag or an old briefcase. Draw contours with allowances on the material. Then sew the leather with a gypsy needle, to make it easier for you to make stitches, use an awl.
- Make your own ax bag from old leather. Craftsmen advise making the case from thick leather. WITH inside Draw the head with a pencil, and then cut out two identical parts and sew them together.
Photos of hand-made ax options
The ax is rightfully considered the “king” of carpentry tools. A real carpenter, who is professional in his craft, knows how to make an ax that is ideal for a particular operation. The master, as a rule, has several axes, always ready for work. However, this tool is needed not only by carpenters, but also ordinary people, living outside the city in private houses, as well as city dwellers who go to their dachas for the summer or on weekends. Every owner has to chop wood to heat a stove in a house or bathhouse. In order for this process to go faster and not cause trouble in the form of a flying ax, a dull blade or a broken ax handle, you need to be able to properly prepare this tool to work and maintain it in “combat readiness” throughout its entire service life. The shape of the ax can be different. It is important to properly mount the ax, wedge it, and then sharpen the blade at the desired angle.
When purchasing an axe, or rather its piercing part, you should pay attention to the quality of the metal used to make the tool. Look for the GOST sign on the ax, which confirms the conformity of the metal state standards and requirements. Be on your guard if this sign is replaced by TU, OST or MRTU. In this case, the manufacturer can make changes to the technology. Axes from Soviet times, different high quality metal, can be purchased at a flea market.
The quality of the metal can also be checked experimentally by taking two axes and hitting the blade of one of them with the blade of the other. A product of lower quality will have nicks after impacts. The quality of the metal is also checked by the characteristic sound that is produced when the ax is tapped. In this case, the tool must be in a suspended state.
You should also pay attention to the following points:
- a well-drawn blade should not have any bends or dents;
- conical shape of the eyelet;
- alignment of the eye and the blade of the ax;
- small thickness of the butt and perpendicularity of its ends to the blade.
Don't be upset if you can't find an ax that meets all the above requirements. After all, the identified deviations can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eye and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.
Material on how to make a device for carrying firewood will also be useful:
Selecting a workpiece and making an ax handle
The length of the ax is selected based on the height and strength of the master. The quality of the wood also plays an important role. Lightweight axes, weighing about 800-1000 g, have handles from 40 to 60 cm long. For heavy tools (1000-1400 g), the length of the ax varies from 55 to 65 cm.
The force of the blow depends on the length of the axe. The longer the ax handle, the easier it is to chop wooden logs. The strength and height of a person also matters
Not every type of wood is suitable for making an ax handle. For this purpose, a true master goes through the entire forest before he finds suitable tree. Most often, a blank for an ax handle is made from the root part of a birch tree, or better yet, from growths on its trunk, which are distinguished by their special twisted and very dense wood. Instead of birch, you can use maple, oak, acacia, ash and other hardwood deciduous trees. The workpieces must be dried well in natural conditions, which will take a lot of time.
On the prepared blank, the contours of the future ax handle are outlined according to the selected template. There should be a thickening at the end of the ax handle, designed to “braking” the hand in case the tool slips. Then the excess wood that is outside the contour is removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, a chisel or a jigsaw, which is much faster. After fitting the ax on the ax handle using a mallet, and making sure that these parts fit tightly, you can continue further finishing of the tool handle. Glass is used for scraping, and fine-grained sandpaper is used for grinding.
Above is a drawing of an ax handle (a) that meets the requirements of GOST 1400-73, and below is a traveling ax handle (b) with an area of unbroken fibers of 40 mm
Important! If the ax easily fits into the eye, this means that the master made an error in the calculations and drew the template incorrectly. In this case, even a driven wedge will not correct the situation, ensuring a short, tight fit of the ax on the ax handle.
How to attach an ax to a handle?
Below is an operation algorithm showing how to place an ax on a turned and polished ax handle. This is one possible way:
- Customize top part ax handles under the eye of the axe. At the same time, plan off the excess wood with a knife. You should not use a file, as it “sweeps” the wood.
- On the ax handle, placed in a horizontal position on the table, place the ax on top, and with a pencil put a mark on the handle to which it will be mounted. Divide the segment in half and put a second mark.
- Clamp the ax handle vertically in a vice with the wide end at the top. Take a hacksaw and make a cut to the second wedge mark.
- Buy a metal wedge in the store or plan a wooden analogue, the thickness of which should be from 5 to 10 mm. The length of the wedge made for an ax with your own hands should be equal to the depth of the cut, and the width should be equal to the size of the eye of the ax.
- Place a board on the table and place the ax on it, placing it upside down. Place the ax on the ax handle and start tapping it on the board. Then turn it over and tap the ax handle on the board, while the mounting process continues. Turning and tapping must be done several times. As a result, the ax handle will fit into the eyelet.
- Next, place the ax handle vertically and insert a planed wedge into the cut, driving it with a mallet halfway or almost to the end. Using a hacksaw, cut off everything that remains sticking out from above.
- Apply oil (motor oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, etc.) to the ax handle, let the excess drain off and leave to dry. Wipe the ax and handle with a rag.
After fitting the ax to the ax handle, shown in figure (a), make its attachment (b) and wedging the handle (c): 1 - axe, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge
How and at what angle is an ax blade sharpened?
To prevent the tool from causing trouble, you need to properly sharpen the ax blade. According to GOST requirements, the sharpening angle of a construction ax should be 20-30°. Tool for carpentry work sharpened a little high angle, equal to 35°. The recommended angles must be maintained, as thinner blades will get stuck in the wood. You will have to put in extra effort to pull them out. On knots, a thin blade can easily bend. The blade, sharpened at an angle of 35°, breaks the chips being separated from the main log and does not get stuck in the wood.
First, a “rough” primary sharpening of the ax is performed, during which it is possible to eliminate all chips, minor damage and large gouges with a rotating sharpening wheel. At the same time, a new clear cutting edge of the ax is being formed. Then the roughly sharpened blade is subjected to a “finish” sharpening. Grinding is carried out along the entire length of the blade on both sides with a fine-grained stone, which removes all burrs.
Three ways to sharpen an ax blade: a) grinding wheel; b) a block, moistened with water; c) straightening with a whetstone moistened with machine oil
Important! The shine of the ax blade and the absence of cutting edge burrs indicate that the sharpening process was successful.
How to properly store an ax?
After work, it is recommended to put a cover made of thick leather, birch bark or other material on the ax blade. You can't leave an ax stuck in a log. A true master takes care of his tool, because the ax is an “extension” of his hands.
If you even once try to chop wood with a homemade ax, you will not be able to work with a shop tool. If you doubt your abilities, then use the services of masters who know how to make convenient ax handle for an ax from selected and dried workpiece.
Axe- a chopping tool, consisting of a wooden handle, usually short, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicular to the shaft. The latter are called tesla. They cut out grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely mansions and churches, hollowed out troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.
The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the wood are crushed under the blow of an ax and do not allow moisture to pass through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood are left open for rot to enter.
What types of axes are there and what are they used for?
The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, starting from the Bulgarian “axe”, Slovenian “topor”, Czech, Polish, etc. Experts consider the ax to be an Orthodox word and associate it with “to trample”, otherwise “to beat”, if talking about the heart, from Ukrainian “tepority” - drag with difficulty, Bulgarian “tapty” - I interfere, I trample.
The wooden handle is called an axe, the metal part with a blunt rounded end on one side is called a butt. Not the best option would be to choose a stick with round. It is much more convenient if the cross-section is oval and the ax handle consists of straight and curved sections. Its tail bends down for easy grip.
On the other side there is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blade next to the mount, which protects the ax handle from impacts on the metal and strengthens the fastening of the wood with the metal part of the product. It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, carpentry tools have beards; they are indispensable when working with wood.
Axes were used as cold combat weapons, cutting and throwing.
Depending on the application, axes are:
Another variety is double-sided. The blades can have different sharpenings and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used as throwing weapons as they are well balanced. Products are made from high carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their risk of injury, high price, uncomfortable handle, and lack of impact function.
Manufacturing
Making blades from high-carbon steels protects axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature changes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening; during operation it is not damaged by the appearance of nicks and scratches. A stamp is placed on the head indicating the grade of metal. Forged products more durable and heavier, preference should be given to this type of metal processing.
According to the width of the cutting part, the tools are:
- wide;
- average;
- narrow.
If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly becomes dull. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the blow falls on the edge of the metal; with this method, the central part is sharpened for more acute angle than the edges.
The blades are either straight or rounded. The latter, due to the reduction in area and increased pressure on the contact points, acquire better cutting qualities.
Axes with a plastic shaft are as strong as wooden ones, but lighter. Sometimes wooden axes made with a rubberized handle to absorb shock and protect the wrist.
Choosing the right tool
- the optimal length of the ax is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
- the ax handle must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.
If you choose a short handle, you will have to make too large an amplitude of movement in order to increase the force of the blow, and the recoil into the hand will also increase. This will interfere with long and productive work with the tool.
If it is expected permanent job with a tool, you should give preference to an expensive, high-quality product. If work happens occasionally, buy more cheap option. A product from one manufacturer may have large price differences depending on its sale on the market or in a large store.
Features of the design of taiga axes
Taiga axes are truly universal. The tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the grain, and building huts. They are highly durable and last for many years. They are used by rangers, commercial hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.
The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of its handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows for a wide swing to increase the impact force when chopping. The head blade does not have an upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. Cutting the upper toe reduces the weight of the tool, strengthens the upper part of the head when working at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The blade shape is rounded to allow for various forestry tasks. The head has a beard for strength.
In the eye, or seat, to strengthen the fastener, a wedge or steel nail is inserted. The fungus - a place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip. The ax head can easily replace a hammer if necessary.
When choosing taiga instrument Three rules must be followed. The instrument must be selected individually according to the man’s height, taking into account frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the optimal weight of the tool is selected from the point of view of transferring the product and performing the impact function.
DIY taiga masterpiece
Let's make a taiga ax from an old one with our own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is cleaned of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into nicks and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in a vinegar bath, then cleaned with sandpaper.
The next step is to adjust the tool head to fit the taiga specimen using a grinder.
For the ax handle, choose a tree with hard wood. Beech is best suited for this role. To prevent dampness, the handle on which the head is mounted is soaked in oil in several stages. It is recommended to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, or linseed oil.
But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, during which some bonds in the substance break down and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product becomes dry, rough to the touch and leaves no marks on your hands.
The product receives additional strength and water resistance. The wood fibers should run along the handle; manufacturers sometimes mess around and paint over the product if the grains are located at an angle. The strength of the ax handle in such a product is reduced.
The metal part is placed on the butt of the handle so that the ax extends one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the seating depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse ones.
To prevent the ax handle from cracking, the cuts are drilled out. Now wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges will be required - and the structure is reassembled.
Fastened for strength epoxy resin, reinforcing with bandages to enhance the tightness of the fit. Beech wedges are hammered in, securely securing the seat. All excess is cut off and the product is carefully polished. Over time, the epoxy becomes unusable; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.
The final touch is sharpening the blade.
To avoid accidental injuries, you can sew a protective cover onto the metal part.
Correct sharpening of the tool
The product can be sharpened manually and mechanically. Each has its own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the “sharpener”.
At manual When sharpening, a template is prepared from tin, the sharpening angle is selected, the desired shape is cut out and applied to the ax blade. A sharpening line is marked on the blade of the head with a marker. The action is performed by moving away from oneself; the process is labor-intensive and exhausting. Performed in several steps using grinding wheels made of sandstone with grains of different sizes.
At mechanical When sharpening an ax, experts do not recommend rushing; they do not advise working with a grinder; you should choose a low processing speed. For the desired sharpening angle, finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is coated with it and the product is ground.
After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithol, grease, machine or waste oil. It is best to keep the instrument in a dry place.
Compliance with safety regulations
- do not leave the ax on the ground so that the tool does not rust and the ax handle does not become damp;
- the head of the product should not dangle on the handle;
- when cutting logs, place wood underneath so as not to damage the blade on stone or metal;
- Make sure you have enough space to swing the ax freely.
Selection the right material for an ax handle is very important; it is impossible to make a reliable ax if the wrong wood for the ax handle is chosen.
For the ax handle, only hard wood from deciduous trees can be used.
The wood must be well dried: standard drying of lumber to 8-12% moisture content is not enough; it is advisable to take wood dried in special chambers or condition the workpiece long time in a very dry place - on radiators or on a stove. Additional drying allows you to avoid loosening of the ax due to drying out due to loss of moisture in conditions with variable temperature and humidity - winter/summer, damp forest/flooded apartment.
Choosing the type of wood for making an ax
Ash
Ash, in our opinion, is one of the best materials for making an axe. Ash wood is quite affordable: well-dried ash lumber of the required quality is used for finishing and making furniture. In a large wood trading organization you can usually choose a block required size and quality.
The strength of ash is beyond praise. In terms of wood density, hardness and durability, it is close to oak, but at the same time it is quite elastic. Spear shafts and battle ax handles were usually made from ash. Currently, instrument handles and gymnastic bars are made from ash.
Ash wood is beautiful and can vary greatly in appearance. In one tree there is wood that differs in color and grain pattern. When making axes, we focus not on the beauty of the design, but on the arrangement of the fibers, which provides the greatest strength. We can only suggest choosing an ax with a darker or lighter ax handle from those available in stock.
American walnut
The American walnut handle is untreated and polished, impregnated with linseed oil.
American walnut has fairly hard, tough and durable wood. It polishes perfectly and after that acquires excellent appearance. We impregnate the axes of our axes with ordinary linseed oil and do not use stains; as a result, the axes retain their appearance for a long time and are pleasant to the touch.
Jatoba
Ax handles made of jatoba and ash
Jatoba wood has high impact strength and is well suited for the manufacture of sports equipment and tool handles, suitable for the manufacture of steam-bent parts and is often used in furniture production. The wood is very durable, hard, tough, and surpasses oak wood in strength. Jatoba is beautifully processed and has an unsurpassed appearance. Perhaps this is the most beautiful wood from which it makes sense to make ax handles.
Jatoba is excellent for making ax handles, especially if the ax requires not only functionality, but also high aesthetic qualities.
Hickory
Hickory is widely used for the handles of axes, hammers, picks and other tools in America and Canada. The wood is strong, elastic, and quite durable.
Oak and beech
They have a beautiful structure, are strong, durable, fairly easy to process, and affordable. Unfortunately, both breeds have disadvantages when making ax handles. Oak is too hard and dries out your hand when cutting. However, when we mounted a felling ax on a long (about a meter) oak ax handle, the recoil was no longer transmitted to the hand - the length of the ax absorbed the blow. Beech cuts perfectly, has a beautiful surface, but is very hygroscopic. To protect a beech ax from moisture, simply impregnating it with oil will not be enough.
Birch
The most common ax handles in Russia are birch, although it is difficult to call birch wood the best option. Perhaps, if you use split dies from the butt part of a silver birch, cut down and dried in a certain way, you can get an excellent product. But the availability of such material leaves much to be desired: even if it is possible to select a birch trunk of the required quality cut down in winter, and there is a place for drying with the required parameters, the drying time will still be more than a year. In addition, birch easily absorbs water and is spoiled by microorganisms, so in addition to thorough initial impregnation, further care during operation.
Do quality ax handle birch can only be recommended to those for whom the process is valuable self-made and who is willing to spend significant time and effort on preparing wood.
The quality of mass-sold birch ax handles is extremely low; sold birch lumber is also not suitable as a material for ax handles.
Maple ax handles
Maple showed itself good material for making ax handles. In addition to sufficient strength and elasticity, maple has beautiful texture and polishes well. The ax handle, made of maple, has a wonderful appearance.
Acacia
In order from top to bottom in the photo: ax handle made of ash, acacia, American walnut. The ax is mounted on a polished American walnut handle impregnated with linseed oil.
Acacia has hard and durable wood; axes are often made from it in the southern regions.
Ax handle strength
The fracture strength of the ax is ensured by the arrangement of the fibers along the ax and the strength of the wood. Cross-layering is unacceptable, with the exception of blanks made from chopped dies of twisted wood, in which case significant strength can be achieved during manufacturing given the arrangement of the layers.
Service life of the ax
The durability of a properly made ax is determined by the resistance of the wood to impact and compression. The part of the ax located in the eye experiences very significant loads; over time, it can become wrinkled and the ax head becomes loose. The service life is determined by the type of wood (the harder the better), drying (a poorly dried ax handle will “get wet” very quickly), and the density of the attachment: precise fitting and tight attachment (by blows or pressing) significantly increase durability. Properly made axes can work under heavy loads for years without requiring repairs.
If a properly made and mounted ax handle becomes loose, it can be repaired. In the case of a direct attachment (when the ax is placed on top of the tapering end of the ax handle and then wedged), the ax should be set back and an additional wedge made of hardwood should be hammered in. It is also possible to use a flat or round metal wedge.
When the ax is mounted in reverse (the ax handle is passed through a cone-shaped eyelet from top to bottom), no loosening occurs, since during operation the loads are directed towards the expanding end of the ax handle and the ax is only fitted more tightly.
