Device for installing socket boxes. Installation of socket boxes in the wall - basic mistakes and rules. Removing the old socket
Socket boxes are required in almost all places where electrical appliances are installed. The final appearance of the installed sockets, switches and other installation products depends on how smoothly one or more socket boxes are installed. Of course, the evenness of the installation of the socket box does not 100% decide the final result - a socket or switch can be perfectly screwed even into a crookedly “grown” socket box. However, this does not mean that you can be irresponsible about “smearing” round installation boxes(This official name socket boxes).
Crooked installed socket box can cause a lot of suffering during final installation installation products. Therefore, smooth installation of installation boxes is strongly recommended.
By the way, socket boxes do not always have a round shape - there are square installation boxes designed for four modules, two in a row. And in general, there are models rectangular shape, according to their purpose, replacing several single socket boxes in a row. However, the most common are the round ones, so we will focus on them.
At first glance, installing a socket box in a concrete wall seems simple. In principle, this is true; anyone can “smear” the installation box. The only point that many people have difficulty with is the evenness of installation, especially of several combined socket boxes.
The method that I want to describe is far from new. These few additional operations will allow you to efficiently install several socket boxes in a row in any walls - concrete, brick, aerated concrete.
First stage - marking, you need to mark the horizontal and vertical axes of each socket. When installing several boxes in a row, you need to maintain the correct distance between them so that future outlet or other modules are installed correctly. Optimal distance between the axes (centers) is considered to be 71 mm, however, there are products whose connecting elements contain a distance of 70-72 mm. When installing 2-3 socket boxes, this does not matter much, but for 5 boxes in a row, every millimeter is important.
Before installing 5 points in a row (vertical or horizontal), you should clarify the specific size of the installed electric points of a particular series. The best way is to assemble the socket boxes on the table in a row using connectors (usually included with the boxes) and screw all 5 sockets (or switches). Then you will know whether the axle size is correct or not. Often, 5 socket boxes in a row may not correspond to the size of five sockets. If there is no opportunity to try on the sockets, a distance of 71 mm is maintained between the axes.
If the outer width of the box is 70 mm. (with a front border) - such socket boxes can be installed without problems with a distance between the axes of 71 mm. If the width is 72 mm, then it will be difficult to “narrow” the axes of the boxes. For 2-3 modules in a row, you can maintain a distance of 72 mm, but for 5 in a row it is better to choose other products.
So, the axes are marked - socket boxes can be mounted in both vertical and horizontal rows. But some series of rosettes are not designed to form vertical rows (rare, but it happens), so you need to clarify this point.
The second stage is the selection of holes for installation. In concrete, this can be done with a diamond bit for a high-speed drill or grinder. An easier way is to drill holes in a circle with a small drill and knock out the middle with a hammer drill. Optimal diameter hole size is 75 mm. - then any socket box will fit in freely and there will be a gap for putty. The depth of the hole is about 50-60 mm, the box must fit completely into the wall. A cleanly installed socket box should be flush with the final putty of the walls or slightly recessed relative to the plane of the wall.
For brick, plaster and others, more soft walls(relative to concrete) an impact bit for a hammer drill is suitable. This crown can also drill concrete walls, but then its service life is greatly shortened. In brick walls it is drilled with impact, in foam concrete and plaster - in drilling mode without impact.
When the hole is made, a socket box (or a group of socket boxes) is fitted into it; if everything fits in without problems, it is swept and primed.
The next stage is creating a pattern. Many installation boxes are equipped with connecting elements for combining into groups. Connectors can be structurally part of a socket box or completed separate part. In our installation method, connectors are completely unimportant, they may not exist at all. The role of a reference template that maintains the required distances between the mounting screws is played by a homemade pattern.
Any piece of profile, for example PN27X28, is suitable for making patterns. Holes for the fastening screws of each socket box are marked and drilled in the profile, so that there is a distance of 71 mm between the left screws of the first and second boxes (and all subsequent ones). Well, the distance between the screws in one box is 60 mm.
The pattern profile must be longer than the entire group of socket boxes so that there is room to attach to the wall. For this, holes are also drilled in the profile. Next, all the boxes are screwed into the pattern from the flat side; for this, screws are used that come with the socket boxes.
Assembled structure try on in a pre-prepared recess. Nothing should prevent the profile from fitting tightly to the plane of the wall.
Well, the final operation is smearing. A wide range of materials is suitable for fixing socket boxes in concrete, aerated concrete and brick. This can be a gypsum mixture: alabaster, thick fugen, rotband or goldband and others. Quite suitable and cement mixtures, including tile adhesive. The most important thing is that thanks to the template, the putty does not need to set quickly.
The putty is filled into the prepared hole and the socket boxes are pressed in from above. It is necessary to press until the plane of the template profile fits snugly against the plane of the wall. The pattern is aligned to the horizontal axis of the group of socket boxes (or to the vertical axis when forming a vertical row) and, after drilling holes, it is fixed to the wall. All excess putty that has come out from under the boxes is removed with a small spatula. Putty will also definitely get inside the socket boxes - it can be removed without problems after removing the template.
When applying it, it is important to ensure that not a single socket sticks out from the plane of the wall. If some boxes fell a little deeper than the plane of the wall (which is unlikely), it’s okay.
After the putty mixture has set, the template-pattern is unscrewed, and the remaining sagging is cleaned off with a spatula. Installation complete!
For those who love “reliable reliability”, we can recommend additional reinforcement of the fastening using self-tapping screws. A hole is drilled in the wall right through the bottom of the socket box and a self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel is screwed in. In walls made of foam concrete and aerated concrete, there is no need for preliminary drilling - the self-tapping screw is screwed in just as it is. It is convenient to use self-tapping screws with a press washer.
Whatever one may say, the putty mixture usually gives some shrinkage, so the place where it is applied requires finishing putty. That's why the best solution Electrical installation will be carried out until the final plastering of the walls.
Tip: Mounting screws get lost all the time when it comes to final installation of outlets and switches. Therefore, it is recommended to tighten the screws in place immediately after removing the template. And so that they do not interfere with the finishing puttying, the screws are tightened deeper than the plane of the wall.
How to install socket boxes before plaster
In general, it is easier to install using finished plaster, but installing socket boxes before plaster no one forbids it. Another thing is that it is a little more complicated.
In order to properly position the installation boxes before plastering, it is necessary to have already installed plaster beacons. When substituting the rule for beacons, you need to control that the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the future plastered wall. It’s best to even deepen the boxes a little relative to the rule by 1-2 mm, then you probably won’t have any problems with pulling the plaster mortar through with the rule.
The smearing algorithm is practically no different from the one described above, the only difference is that the template is not attached to the wall tightly, but taking into account future layers. By controlling the plane using the beacon rule, a template bar is set. Some wedges are inserted between the template and the wall. After the fastening solution has set, the fastening screws are removed or sunk deeper, the protruding wires are carefully rolled up in the sockets themselves.
With this order of work, you need to carefully ensure that the top and bottom of the socket boxes do not protrude from the plane of the beacons. To solve this problem, it is better to use a wide strip for making patterns.
Installation of boxes for non-modular devices
Such situations are rare, but can bring a lot of difficulties if they are not taken into account. If non-modular sockets or switches (which do not fit into a common frame) are installed in one row, then a minimum distance must be maintained between them. Otherwise further installation will be impossible!
As an example of such a scheme, you can take a cheap thermostat for an electric heated floor - this product is not modular and does not fit into a common frame with other sockets. Of course, there are thermostats suitable for general frames, but they are more expensive and are tied to a certain collection of installation electrics. Therefore, if you use a device without a common frame, it is imperative to maintain the distance!
So, the vast majority of sockets, switches, thermostats and others, in their finished form, have a width of 86 mm. Accordingly, between boxes for non-modular sockets there must be a minimum distance (along the axes) of 86 mm. But this is if it’s “grinding in” and not exactly, what if the switch turns out to be wider? Therefore, it is better to make the minimum distance between the axes of the installation boxes 90 mm. or more.
Well, the article has come to an end. It is more than enough for installing socket boxes in concrete and other materials.
Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
Yesterday I spent the whole day replacing sockets and switches in the apartment. Initially they were installed external ( open installation) and were mounted on a wooden base. Herself copper wires with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm, both for lighting and socket lines. Therefore, it was decided to simply replace the sockets and switches with new ones - hidden installation.
To do this, it was necessary to remove (dismantle) the old sockets and switches and install socket boxes. This is what I would like to dwell on in more detail.
In this article I will clearly show how to independently install socket boxes in concrete wall. After all, an incorrectly installed socket box will ultimately lead to the socket or switch falling out of the socket, which can lead to serious consequences in terms of.
By the way, one of my friends suggested his own method - read about it.
The new type of socket boxes are made of plastic. The problem described above does not exist in them.
Installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall
To install a socket box in a concrete or brick wall, I use a hammer drill with a special crown with a diameter of 68 (mm) with a Pobedit central drill and Pobedit teeth.
Before you begin dismantling the old outlet, you must turn off the circuit breaker that powers the outlet. In our case this is group 2.
Then we check again for the presence of voltage in the outlet.
There is no voltage at the outlet. Now you can start dismantling it. Unscrew the 2 screws using a screwdriver and remove the top cover of the socket.
Then unscrew the 2 screws securing the power wires and disconnect them from the outlet.
The wires were disconnected, all that remained was to unscrew the 2 screws that secure the socket to the wooden base.
We remove the old socket. appears before us wooden base, which is attached to the concrete wall using a dowel.
Using pliers and a screwdriver, remove the wooden base and turn out the dowel.
I'll add a video a little later this process. In order not to miss this event, subscribe to receive news from my website in the right column of the site or at the end of this article.
We remove the remaining concrete in the hole using a hammer and chisel.
When will the notorious leak from wet walls appear faster, albeit very theoretically - with bare concrete, or with plastic?
Already recent years 10 when installing socket boxes in reinforced concrete walls, I use only a 68 mm diamond core bit. I use it ONLY WITHOUT WATER and of course without shock. Previously, I tried to drill with a hammer drill without impact, but I realized that a drill is better suited for this, because... the vibration of the hammer drill was often the reason for the bit jamming in the concrete. The rebar is sawed with a bang and the neighbors are happy.
My opinion: drilling socket boxes in a concrete wall with the help of powerful hammer drills and such crowns is barbaric! Vibration kills the walls of the house, the hands of the master and the nerves of the neighbors. And if such a crown stumbles upon M10 reinforcement, then what will happen to its teeth? It’s already been invented a long time ago I use a diamond bit for this purpose, I’ve been using it for 10 years, it drills everything without noise and the neighbors don’t complain.
Good day, I hope you can help me with some advice. Preamble: there was an old Soviet unit (socket and 2 switches), it was decided to replace it with a modern one, I bought a similar BK2VR-005A, it also has a metal socket box, after dismantling the old filling I realized that it would not be possible to limit myself to installing a new one in the old socket box, having dismantled the old socket box I discovered that the wall has a cavity behind the socket box, what advice can you give regarding the application of a metal socket box rather than a plastic one? As far as I know, adhesion with metal is worse than with plastic.
Installing sockets in a concrete wall is quite a complicated matter, like everything related to electricity, because it requires special care. If you decide to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installation of new sockets is an important issue, since after each renovation or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For ease of use of certain devices, they are moved to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know the theoretical minimum, which I will talk about in this article.
When starting the preparatory stage, you should already have purchased an electrical appliance, as well as purchased necessary materials, tools and the work area was brought into proper shape.
Typically, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and plumbing systems should be 1 meter away from your chosen installation point. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; Under no circumstances should electrical outlets be installed in them.
Required tools and materials
To work you will definitely need:
- Electrical socket (better take a product with a ceramic base);
- An appropriately sized installation box;
- Cable and conductor products;
- Alabaster.
For equipment, select:
- perforator;
- chisel;
- spatula;
- indicator screwdriver.
Types of sockets
There are several main types of sockets. By type of installation there are: built-in for open and built-in for internal wiring. Built-in ones are used when wires run through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as it is a guarantee of safety. Overheads are more suitable for wooden houses, where the wiring goes over the wall.
Sockets with protective curtains are good because the openings are protected. The curtains are retracted only when the fork is inserted. They can open upward, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.
Sockets with ejectors are suitable for using multiple appliances when you need to frequently pull out the plug and replace it with another one.
A socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. You can program it to turn on a particular device. This, for example, can be done with a teapot.
Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.
Installation instructions
Marking
First of all, we start marking - using a tape measure and a pencil, we mark the center of the future outlet on the wall. When installing the block, apply all centers.
Holes in a concrete wall
For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To make the job easier, use a hammer drill and prepare a special crown. You use it to make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert the concrete bit into the hammer drill and use it to mark the future dimensions of the hole.
Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula attachment, remove any remaining concrete.
Electrical wiring installation
After you have made all the holes and punched the grooves to them, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. You must route the power wires to the sockets. Best option: each has its own power cable.
Installation of socket boxes
At this stage, carefully follow the things I described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.
Considering the number of socket boxes you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two things as an example.
- Connect two sockets together.
- Make the plugs needed to enter the cable.
- Remove excess connecting elements that interfere with installation.
- Try on the socket box, placing it in the already formed hole. Once you are sure that it is not sticking out, protruding or tilted, you can proceed to the next step.
- Clean the hole from dust.
- Prime with a special primer that guarantees durability.
- Dilute putty or plaster mixture on a gypsum basis. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.
Important! You need to work quickly because the plaster hardens in a very short period of time.
- “Press” the socket boxes with the wires in them into the solution.
Wall decoration
Next, you need to prime and then cover significant chips, dips and depressions with plaster. The socket boxes themselves need to be coated especially carefully. After the wall has dried, putty and sand the areas to make everything look smooth and beautiful.
After this, you can safely move on to finishing (painting, wallpapering, etc.).
An auxiliary but integral element of the electrical system are socket boxes. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities to accommodate hidden wiring. It allows you to hide wires and contacts not only of sockets, but also of switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, heated floor). Correct installation– a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic – a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.
Preparatory activities imply not only taking a number of pre-installation actions, but also purchasing certain materials and tools in advance. To work you will need:
- alabaster/plaster;
- primer;
- spatula;
- hammer/drill;
- drill/drill 8 mm thick;
- diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket box is standard);
- special spatula or chisel + hammer;
- building level;
- marker/pencil;
- ruler/hard tape measure;
- indicator screwdriver;
- sandpaper;
- cable/wire products;
- the electrical device itself (if it is a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.
Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work necessary by marking the area where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of the future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on the concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If you plan to install a block, then the center of the outermost fixture is initially marked on the surface. A line is subsequently drawn through it along the level, equal to length the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the rest of the electrical installation products.
Drilling holes for socket boxes
It is best to use a hammer drill for this. Using it, you will need to drill a hole in the intended center by placing the drill. Afterwards, the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked outline appears, the drill is removed from the equipment by unscrewing the bolt. Next, the crown is put on the hammer again, on which a mark must be made indicating the depth to which it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle is changed again. This time, a spatula is put on the hammer drill and the excess concrete is knocked out. If it is not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and hammer are used.
In situations where there is neither a hammer drill nor a drill available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating sections that have different directions in the marking areas. Afterwards, pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.
Guide to installing socket boxes in the wall
Having drilled a hole and punched grooves into it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed with direct electrical installation. For this purpose, you should place a socket box in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly secured and not tilted at all. Then you need to insert the wires supplying the future device into the hole located in the background.
The next goal is to securely fasten the box to the wall:
- clean the base from dust;
- treat the hole with a primer, which will ensure durability;
- dilute the plaster/putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of construction/medical plaster, it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy, homogeneous consistency is formed);
- Apply the composition inside the hole with a spatula;
- put the socket box in the socket and press it into the solution (it should come out concrete surface through the slots).
It is important to carry out installation extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in literally 2-3 minutes. The product must be aligned so that the screws are horizontal to the floor and the box is completely recessed into the base. Check for correctness with a level applied diagonally to the device. It cannot be moved in the future: the plaster/alabaster must harden completely. Excess that comes out is removed.
If dips, chips, or potholes appear in the concrete for the socket box after completion of the work, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled using sandpaper. Last stage - finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, etc.).
Possible errors
Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with unpleasant consequences. The most common problem is the product falling out or poor fixation in the wall. If this happens, you can cope with the problem in 2 ways:
- screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket box;
- applying glue gun, securely secure the box in the slot.
Also common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket/switch. A dangerous potential arises on the device body, which can lead to a short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket box should not interfere at all future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.
1. Switches and socket boxes can be installed anywhere. The main thing is to comply with one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be located at least 1 m from the selected installation point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet room, electrical devices cannot be installed at all due to danger.
2. When fixing into concrete or brick wall It is advisable to use gypsum/alabaster only for small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.
3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when the time will come repair contacts.
4. If we are talking about installing 1-2 socket boxes, then buying a diamond crown will be a pointless waste of money. It would be more appropriate to replace it with attachments equipped with pobedit teeth, or even use a grinder with a disc.
| Articles |
Isn't it true that everyone has seen such a sad picture as the one on the left? In old housing stock installed sockets Not only do they become physically obsolete (contacts burn, wires melt), but they are also often poorly secured - they fall out of their places (boxes).
Therefore, the urgent question is how to reliably install the socket back into the wall (more precisely, into the socket box or box). After all, even if you install a new socket without changing the box, the socket may start to dangle again and eventually fall out “without its giblets.”
By the way, an electrician is often called in for small orders precisely because of problems with sockets - they simply do not stay in the wall, they begin to spark, do not contact, or short out.
My article today will be about how to securely install a socket in a socket box and secure it so that it never falls out.
Installation box for mounting a socket (socket box)
The installation box (socket box) is needed for two simple purposes - to ensure electrical safety and durability mechanical fastening. If everything is clear with security (isolation so that there is no short circuit and there was no electric shock), then mechanical strength(so that the socket does not fall out of place) is a problem that few people talk about.
The second part of the article on this topic is.
I also spoke a little on this topic in an article about.
The problem is that the socket does not stay in place, dangles and falls out of the wall.
The installation boxes that were used before (relatively speaking, Soviet ones) are not suitable for all new sockets. First of all, because of the fastening. The rosette has legs with sharp, scratchy tips that move apart. As a result, these spacer tabs should rest against the edges of the box, and the socket will be secured.
But this is definitely not enough, since a freshly replaced socket will come out with all the insides after turning the iron on and off several times. Because often the paws do not reach the socket, or do not hold well.
This is unworthy of an electrician, as if a professional photographer were to lose a flash drive with paid photographs of a wedding, as if external unit the split system fell off the wall after the installer left, or as a psychic could not determine from the photo whether the person was alive or dead. If you are doing business, be a professional! But such annoying mistakes are unforgivable for a professional. Unfortunately, we have a lot of amateurs...
There are tips that for more reliable installation you need to straighten the legs more, or put something under them. For example, pieces of sandpaper, rubber, etc. But this is only a temporary measure, and with such additional fasteners, over time, the structure will still become loose, and the socket may break out of the socket.
Of course you have to follow simple rule When removing the plug from the socket, be sure to hold the socket body with your other hand. But once this rule is not followed (for example, if it is a child), and that’s it - see the first photo, the socket does not stay in the box.
For switches the situation is much simpler; there are enough spacer legs. After all, no force is applied to them to pull them out.
And one more thing. Some new sockets do not fit into the old sockets in depth. Even if you use an outlet without grounding.
The difference between new socket boxes and old ones
In new installation boxes (for example, GUSI, blue) there are no problems with reliable installation - just tighten the socket with self-tapping screws into the special holes.
Now all installation boxes are equipped with holes for self-tapping screws; screws are usually already included in the kit. The main thing is not to forget to use them, and the spacer tabs can be used as additional fasteners or completely thrown out.
GUSI socket box with a diameter of 68 mm. The photo shows self-tapping screws for mounting the socket.
What's new in the VK group? SamElectric.ru ?
Subscribe and read the article further:
Removing the old socket
So, remove the cover of the old outlet. Before doing this, be sure to turn off the power.
The socket in this case is double. And this is the same case when the previous electrician simply put the socket on its feet and walked away.
Here it is important to check whether there is a phase on the socket contact. For safety reasons.
Changing an outlet with the power on is aerobatics and adrenaline. I only do this when there is no additional lighting or something important is turned on at the same time.
2_1 We check the presence of a phase. In this case there is a phase.
Carefully unscrew the wire from the terminals. It is not recommended to bend old aluminum again.
3 Installation box and wires of the old socket. Phase wire(top left) – with damaged insulation.
Do you see the installation box (socket box)? This is exactly what they used to put in Soviet houses. There were even more ancient ones - made of tin cans.
The most chic thing is coffee cans)
You can now hollow out the old socket box, install a new one with holes for screws, and securely fasten the new socket. But this is just lip service. Here are the pitfalls you can expect on this “correct” path:
- Gouging out a socket box is a dirty and dusty job and requires a hammer drill or a chisel with a hammer.
- Installing a new socket is a dirty and time-consuming job; you have to spread alabaster or putty, wait until it all sets firmly enough, and only then install a new socket.
- Broken wires. This is the worst thing that can happen. The wire will have to be spliced, the area will have to be carefully insulated, and then it will be difficult to reach the contact...
- The new socket boxes are deeper than the old ones, and interior walls in our apartments they are thin - and you can easily have a hole from the living room to the bedroom or vice versa)
It’s much easier and faster to use an old box; I’ll write on how to do this reliably.
Installing a new socket in an old socket box
The wiring is two-wire (that is, there is no grounding at all), so we install a socket without a grounding contact, like this:
Turkish Gunsan Visage, the best of the budget ones.
In general, I recommend Turkish electrical installation products, they have more or less high-quality plastic and ceramics (of course, if you don’t have the money for Legrand or ABB). And I really don’t recommend Russia, China and Belarus (with all due respect, because my wife is from Belarus).
5 New socket. Let's take it apart. Front view.
We screw the wires with a screwdriver, trying to bend them as little as possible.
7 Connect the wires to the socket terminals
Carefully roll up the wires in the box and first place the socket in its place. We make sure that nothing prevents you from inserting the socket into the wall.
8 The socket is almost installed
Now we need a screwdriver. Or an electric screwdriver. We screw the screws into the plaster behind the outside of the socket box. Here you will have to select screws according to diameter and length, which will be discussed below.
9 How to properly secure a socket in a concrete wall
Without electric tool there's no way around it. The fact is that if you screw in a self-tapping screw by hand, it will “walk” from side to side, and it will be difficult to achieve reliable fastening. In addition, the work may not be for the weak-armed, and it simply won’t be possible to fix the socket in the wall...
How to securely secure a socket
As I wrote above, I practically never use the standard spacer legs of the socket, but for reliable installation I use self-tapping screws. At the same time, I can give a 100% guarantee that the socket will stay in the socket and in the wall, and will not dangle or fall out.
We screw the screws into the holes and cutouts of the socket flange, as shown in the figure below.
11 In what places can you fasten the socket with self-tapping screws so that it never falls out of the wall?
Explanation of the picture for attachment points.
- These are standard places, used when installing in new socket boxes. In old socket boxes, you can insert self-tapping screws longer than 35 mm into these holes and screw them into the bottom of the socket box.
- Lengths from 10 to 30 mm go to these places, depending on the strength of the plaster (or alabaster on which the box is attached)
- This is where it gets more interesting (more creative). This is an option if the fastenings in places 2 are bad.
- You can completely throw out the old tabs and drive long (30 - 40 mm) screws into the empty holes.
- The most extreme case.
In options 4 and 5, the socket is mounted not by the flange, as in previous cases, but by the socket body. These methods (4, 5) are used in cases where the hole for installing the socket is narrow and the material is hard (for example, tiles).
If none of options 1 - 5 are suitable, you can drill a couple of 5 or 6 mm dowels for places 1 or 2.
Self-tapping screws for installing sockets
These are the screws I use for high-quality installation sockets Diameter – 3.0 mm, different lengths – 16, 20, 25, 35 mm. For comparison, the photo shows well-known self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 (black) and 4.2 mm (white, with a press washer).
Long screws can also be used instead of standard ones in new boxes. This should be done in the case when the box is strongly recessed in relation to the plane of the wall. Or, for example, tiles have been laid. Gusevsky fastening screw 12 or 16 mm long will not help.
We installed the socket and turn on the power. Now I recommend checking it, as described in the mentioned article. We try to pull out the socket - we need to carry out the most severe tests.
I want to brag a little - I recently bought myself a screwdriver (before that I used an electric screwdriver). Interskol, Lithium-ion. A thing that is indispensable in the household. Only a hammer drill can be better :) . I have a 1400 W Spetsmash.
15 A screwdriver is an indispensable tool
And another bonus. Cats are an electrician's friends; they always love different wires. And this time too...
Good luck in your business, and don’t redo your work!
Video about reliable installation
Excellent video by Alexey Zemskov about quality professional installation sockets:
How to firmly install a socket. Another way.
Recently there was a case - the finishers installed the socket box crookedly, and the wall was insulated with foam blocks. In short, there is nowhere to attach the socket, but the socket box at the back is firmly glued to the wall. And it’s good - I have a drill at hand, drill holes in the socket body with a diameter of about 3.5 mm, and use self-tapping screws to secure the socket firmly in the standard places of the socket box.
Non-standard socket fastening – 3mm self-tapping screws stick out
The socket is firmly fixed and will definitely not fall out!
And remember two things:
1. The ideal is unattainable, but we must strive for it!
2. A good electrician is one who is never remembered!
