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How to drill a hole in a wall: how to drill concrete, tiles and porcelain stoneware correctly. Drilling in concrete Easier to drill into a concrete wall

When preparing to renovate your home, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to drill into the walls. For example, to secure a profile for drywall sheets. At this stage, some difficulties usually arise, since in many houses the walls are made of concrete. In addition to high strength, the material can be combined with reinforcement, which makes the work doubly difficult. To drill concrete wall a regular drill, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the work process in advance.

Drilling load-bearing walls and partitions made of concrete is not an easy task. To complete the intended work quickly and efficiently, you need to know some secrets and tricks. It also doesn’t hurt to listen to opinions experienced craftsmen who advise:

How to choose a tool

Most often, a hammer drill is used to drill concrete. It has several advantages over a conventional drill.

These include:

Despite the listed advantages, such a tool is not always suitable for the job. In some situations, its use is simply impractical.

A hammer drill is not suitable in the following cases:

• when shallow holes (10–12 mm) are needed in the wall;
• when working with foam blocks (otherwise the material will crumble);
• If required amount holes does not exceed 15 pieces.

Based on this, we can conclude that a conventional drill is more suitable for home use. To purchase such a tool for drilling walls, you need to consider a number of important points.

The drill must meet the following requirements:

1. It should be impact, since this type is most effective when drilling concrete walls. In without impact drill the attachments and chuck will fail too quickly.
2. It is better to buy pobedite attachments for it, intended for concrete work. And the tip is coated with durable alloys.

You can also choose a hammer drill. True, such a tool is more expensive than a regular model. But it has increased power, which can be adjusted at your discretion.

Which attachments are better

To be able to drill into a concrete wall with a drill, you must first select the appropriate attachments. They must match the design exactly.

The following types are suitable for work:

Before using any attachments, you must check the wall for the presence of cables and wires, as well as fittings (if you have a metal detector). This will help protect the wall from major damage, and the tool from breakage.

First you need to prepare a drill, attachments and other related items. Then, while working, you won’t have to be distracted and waste time looking for the right things.

Drilling is often necessary in cases where:

• rough finishing;
• wiring;
• plumbing installation;
• concreting communications.

In this case, the concrete wall (if drilled correctly) should remain without severe damage or large chips.

When working with a drill with a pobedite bit, sometimes you need to use a metal punch. It is selected according to the size of the hole. This tool allows the drill not to jam when deepening the drill. To do this, the punch is driven into the concrete and driven with a hammer to split the solid obstacle into pieces. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to use a diamond crown. In addition, a drill with such an attachment will never get stuck in concrete.

Sequence of actions when drilling:

1. Carefully inspect the instruments. The drill must be in good condition, and the drill must be intact.
2. Begin to carefully drill a hole in the concrete with a drill, stopping continuous work instrument 10 minutes after the start of action.
3. The process can be continued only after the engine has cooled down.
4. Before drilling the next hole, it is necessary to moisten the nozzle with water. This will protect the metal from bending.

Using these simple methods you can drill through a concrete wall without a hammer drill.

Sometimes there are cases when the drill gets stuck in the wall. It is not advisable to use force in this case, otherwise it will break off and the edge of the nozzle will remain in the concrete. To free the drill, you must first disconnect it from the drill, then put on a bit of a smaller diameter and remove the stuck part.

To perform drilling yourself and at the same time avoid various injuries and unpleasant incidents, you need to follow safety precautions and follow the recommendations of specialists.

Small renovation work periodically become a necessity in every home. Drilling was no exception. To implement it correctly, you need tools, experience and a little time, otherwise it will be an unwanted expenditure of money. To avoid the latter, we have prepared for you an article on the topic: “How and with what to drill into a concrete wall?” Let's look at all the important points.

How to drill into a concrete wall

New or old tool

Remember, if your wife asks: “How to drill a hole in the wall to install a socket there?”, then it’s time to resort to using a hammer drill!

Additional Information

To prepare the wall for drilling a hole large diameter Make a small notch in the center of the mark with a thin drill. This will allow you to later find a comfortable stop with the tool so that it does not slip off. You need to press the drill moderately, without applying significant force, otherwise there is a risk of breaking the drill.

Periodically blow dust out of the hole, this will increase the reliability of the fasteners being installed. A rubber bulb or spray can is suitable for this. compressed air. Blowing with your mouth is not recommended, as dust will get on your face and eyes (as a last resort, use safety glasses).

We hope our information resource helped you, and the question of how to drill concrete no longer bothers you. Good luck!

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by home craftsmen. And any master has encountered problems when drilling, especially if the work is delicate. And delicate work most often occurs: the drill is missing half a millimeter - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom is askew, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tiles have just been laid. Grace and “oakiness” are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill correctly with a drill.

Safety

In terms of electrical safety, commercially available power tools belong to class II: double working insulation, use without additional grounding is permissible, i.e. Such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-European socket through an adapter. At “iron bazaars” you can find class I (“industrial”) tools with a grounding terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its chuck is most often used for a drill with a conical shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary impact drilling. Therefore, do not buy such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the body is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with a Euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool with an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat crosswise contacts. It is suitable for home use, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is placed instead of the corresponding number. Thus, an IP32 drill can be used outdoors good weather; IPХ2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzling rain, and IP68 can work during the Samum in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first digit 2 means that the device is finger-resistant; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection of IP22. But this in no way means that if you grab a drill chuck with the same degree of protection with your hand while working, it will stop on its own. The IP standard is not fool proof.

Cartridge

The regular three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. When using a rotary impact drill, it quickly becomes loose, and the chuck itself loses accuracy and may completely fail: the threaded race of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard, brittle materials, the three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation-only mode.

In a quick-release chuck (you can recognize it by its corrugated plastic collar), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during impact-rotary drilling, but is less accurate and is of little use for delicate work. Powerful drills are equipped with a two-sleeve collet chuck - clamping and loosening are carried out by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of shaped grooves, see figure, absolutely securely fixes the working element according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; Replacing the drill is done with just two light movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalworking and carpentry: the centering accuracy of the drill is insufficient. Adapter with three-jaw chuck does not make sense on SDS: it will become loose from vibration, just like a regular drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the conventional working tool fit.

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools weighing up to 5 kg; SDS Max – for heavy two-handed.

Power and speed

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. Power reserve is needed to create the required torque at low speeds. External characteristics a commutator electric motor with sequential excitation used in drills is close to ideal, but the low-power motor at low speeds overheats from the high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front slip handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally “eaten up” before our eyes at a rotation speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools require at least 1500 rpm. If you come across a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool for work general purpose unsuitable

For precision work For metal, a simple, low-power drill with only rotation is best - 120-200 W. A stand that turns the drill into a tabletop will be very useful. drilling machine. And if you also fork out for Rotary table to the bed, then it will be possible to mill small parts with a dental bur.

Mains or battery?

Cordless drill home handyman needed in two cases:

• If you work on the side, this is your more or less regular extra income.
• If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

Anyway dear professional drill With lithium battery and its charging time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals who work full shifts day after day. And you regular will do alkaline battery, rechargeable 4-8 hours. In extreme cases, you can “pump it up” to a hole or two in half an hour.

Section summary

All of the above can be reduced to the following recommendations:

• Regular construction works, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and an impact drill of 350 W or higher.
• Occasional household work – rotary impact drill from 250 W.
• For precision drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably with a stand.

Drill

The following types of drill bits are most commonly used:

• Spiral - are made of tool steel, coated with carbide, with a carbide insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
• Spade bits can be used to drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large diameter holes. They are made either in one piece or in the form of a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts different diameters. This set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
• Crowns (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with or without a centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but are only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
• A circular drill (centre drill, ballerina drill) is used to drill large-diameter holes in thin, durable but fragile materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative rock. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be changed smoothly. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
• Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy coated with diamond. They can be used to drill glass, polished decorative stone, and glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap sets can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be straightened with a regular file.

Spiral drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a device - a wedge with an angle of 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly turned when sharpening. Best sharpening is obtained using a fine (“velvet”) hand emery wheel, see fig. below.

For different materials needed different angles drill sharpening A. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Precise angles and methods for sharpening drills different types for different materials can be found in material processing reference guides.

About hard alloys

Carbide alloys for drills are made based on boron, tungsten or zirconium compounds. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will wear out quickly. Such drills are marked “by stone”. Drill with them decorative materials You can’t - the edges of the hole will chip. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in their durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They cost more accordingly.

What and how to drill

Whenever drilling, the hole locations must be marked. For metal this is done with a center punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone - either with a special diamond center punch, or with half a pobedit roller from an old glass cutter, clamped into a homemade holder. Mark (more precisely, scratch with rotation) hole marks in fragile hard materials need to be done manually. Now let's move directly to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, massive duralumin

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 – with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

We mean maximum speed at idle. During the drilling process, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. Selecting the feed when manual drilling by weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, crumbs will form, the hole will end up with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

If the feed is excessive, so-called drain chips will form - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. To develop the feeding skill faster, you need to drill even small holes with both hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and fragile. For steels 42 and 44 (regular structural steels), chips with a bluish tarnish color are acceptable.

Bronze and some types of duralumin require special attention: they do not produce flush chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to monitor bronze by its tarnish: its appearance is undesirable. The duralumin needs to be cooled with liquid machine oil: if it boils, you need to press it lightly.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the regulator. If the drill is at 2800 rpm, and the regulator gives 14 clicks from edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then make the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill a given material.

Note: When drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the formation of correct chips.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet materials, so that drilling does not lead to bending of the sheet, two methods can be recommended:

• When drilling from the bed, give more revolutions, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pad. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be secured with nails driven into the cushion at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
• When drilling by weight, as soon as you feel increased resistance to feed (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill a hole on the other side, pressing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.

But radical way get a wide hole in a thin sheet of metal with a regular drill– first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then in one or three steps expand it to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill cleanly. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum permissible diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with heavily smoothed corners.

Aluminum is a soft metal, very viscous and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it may melt on cutting edge, blurring of the hole, swelling of its edges and biting of the drill. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, the speed should be one and a half times less than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool little by little, without interference.

The drill bit for aluminum must be sharp, factory sharpened or sharpened on a special machine. Hand-sharpened drills are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill bit sharpened for metal. Such drills are very fragile, so the tool must be fed easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in a stand.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Industrial wood is drilled with a twist drill or a feather drill, sharpened to look like wood. Dense woods (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a core bit and a centering drill. Drill speed – 400-600 for twist drill and 200-500 for feathers and crowns.

Drilling plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood are produced either special drill for wood (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid feather drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is drilled in advance; it can be drilled with a regular drill. Turnovers are the same as for industrial wood; The feed is easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out using special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or liner, using a rotary impact method at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. Best option– SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip gets chipped. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly advisable to determine the location of the reinforcement using a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is done with a stone crown (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is applied tightly, without distortion, to the wall, pressed, and with sharp, quick pressure, turn on the drill.

For through drilling of walls there is special tool and technology, but this is a subject of special description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative; chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. They drill into already laid tiles, so cracking is also unacceptable. By smooth surface the drill can easily slip off, which is again unacceptable. Drilling - only by rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

• A hole with a diameter larger than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the compass drill.
• A centering hole is drilled using a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
• Using a concrete finishing drill, the hole is finally drilled.

Porcelain tiles are drilled in the same way as ceramic tile. Drill speed is maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; serving – light, minimal. It is advisable to provide continuous cooling working area water. You cannot cool the tiles with oil - when heated, it can ruin the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and steady hands: misalignment is unacceptable, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a cetrobur with both hands, placing the front handle on the drill. The revolutions are higher, but not more than 900, because with large ones, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and chip off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (grainy) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill bit. This is a job for an ace and virtuoso of drilling. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, tried on, aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, immediately turned on “full” and slowly, smoothly inserted the drill into the material. Pressure and distortion are unacceptable.

If the piece being processed can be laid on a table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed using the ancient Egyptian method: copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

• A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made from plasticine or putty around the drilling site.
• Fine powder is poured into the formed hole. quartz sand and moisten it to a liquid paste.
• A flat, thin-walled copper tube is inserted into the drill chuck.
• The drill is set to MINIMUM speed.
• Drill with a series of short, light pecks with the lightest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the tips of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw the material.

Note: You won’t get the exact diameter, but you will get a matte spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vice, then it is better to drill with a precision drill from the bed. If you have to drill by weight, then after punching the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill bridge. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and turn on the drill, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then first drill a centering hole 2-4 mm in diameter. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling while hanging, the drill, if it splashes, can damage the wall or furniture.

Square holes

Is it possible to drill square holes? Yes, you can if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come complete with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a rod and clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the unnoticed area of ​​the hole will be only 2%.

However, you can only drill square holes with a drill in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and enormous lateral forces arise on the tool. Square holes are drilled in metal special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled like this at all: lateral forces will tear the part into pieces.

Bottom line

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling a smooth, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

In modern buildings, as a rule, the walls and ceilings are concrete. Sooner or later, the need may arise, for example, to hang a lamp shelf or cover the walls with plasterboard during repairs, then the problem arises of how to drill through a concrete wall with a drill.

Difficulty in drilling can arise due to a number of reasons. Firstly, the structure of concrete panels is heterogeneous and they contain iron reinforcement, cement-sand mortars and crushed stone, which makes drilling difficult. Secondly, concrete has high strength and is very difficult to process.

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How are concrete walls drilled?

Before starting work, it is important to decide which drilling device is best to do the job. The choice, of course, is small, since there are two types of wall drilling:

• drill;
• hammer drill

A hammer drill will do this job better, since its function is precisely to punch holes in concrete or stone surfaces. Using this tool you can make holes large section, but even the highest quality impact drill is not capable of more than 12 cm.

But when you need to drill foam concrete walls, a drill will be optimal, since a hammer drill will simply crumble the surface.

When working with concrete walls, you absolutely cannot use a hammerless drill, because it will be pointless, and you can also damage the tool.

When you only have to make a few holes and you don’t have a hammer drill, you shouldn’t buy one because of this; you can get by with a drill. If there is a lot of work to be done, then purchasing a hammer drill is inevitable.

In the case when you still need to work with a drill, it is important not to forget that you need to use a Pobedit drill for concrete and with a tip coated with a carbide compound.

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Diamond drills and other devices

On store shelves you can sometimes find a model of ring drills with a diamond tip. Such products are intended for drilling huge holes with a cross-section of up to 25 cm. It is important to note that such devices are expensive, and therefore they should not be purchased for home use.

If it becomes necessary to make a hole for a socket or switch, you can use crowns designed for drilling concrete.

The cutting part around the circumference has universal solderings made of carbide metals.

Similar bits are also sold for electric drills. They differ from the previous ones in that instead of soldering they are equipped with a tungsten carbide alloy coating. The advantages of such a device are that if concrete walls are lined with tiles, then there is no point in replacing the nozzle, since it works well on concrete surfaces. But we must not forget that such devices can be used for drills with a power above 1000 W.

Most often, drills are used to work with a hammer drill, the cross-section of which ranges from 4 to 80 mm. Many people are faced with the problem of choosing the correct drill diameter. But the smartest thing to do when purchasing a hammer drill is to also purchase a set of concrete drills. But a high-quality kit costs a lot of money, and therefore it is necessary to select the same cross-section as that of the dowel intended for this model.

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Everyone knows that a concrete wall and that's it similar designs have durable qualities and are difficult to drill, since most often when working you can stumble upon crushed stone included in the concrete composition from which wall and ceiling structures. Holes in concrete slabs during construction are carried out quite often:

• during finishing works;
• when installing built-in furniture;
• when installing air conditioners;
• when installing electrical wiring;
• when installing plumbing fixtures.

During the minor household repairs You can get by with a simple electric drill that is not equipped with an impact function.

To do this, in the process of introducing a pobedit drill into concrete surface Periodically, you need to crush the concrete with a metal punch, which must correspond to the cross-section of the hole. It is used when, while drilling, an electric drill starts to get stuck in concrete. Then they place the punch in the hole and hit it, using a hammer or sledgehammer, which helps to crush compacted areas and penetrate deeper. But the punch needs to be turned slightly, and then you can start working with a hammerless drill again.

These manipulations should be continued until the holes reach the desired depth. This method is very time-consuming, but suitable for several holes.

Of course, you can also use universal drills with diamond tips. They will do an excellent job with metal, crushed stone, as well as concrete structures. But it is important to note that they are only suitable for an ordinary drill or a device with the vibration mode turned off. When using diamond drills, you should remember that they require cooling during operation.

But good effect Drilling can be achieved using a hammer drill. Its advantages include combining the functions of rotational motion with reciprocating motion. When drilling with such a drill, the tip of the drill is able to break the concrete composition, and the drilling process will be the least labor-intensive.

Concrete structures, walls and ceilings are not uncommon in our houses and apartments. In multi-story construction, they are generally used with particular frequency, since houses with concrete walls are the most reliable. The reliability of concrete is determined by the good strength of such a material, which is achieved by using the right components concrete mixture and quality work done on its construction.

And so we are proud of our strong walls. But usually it becomes necessary to drill a hole in this very wall. Moreover, this may be needed quite often, for example:

• when finishing walls and ceilings;
• during the installation of air conditioners;
• when installing plumbing;
• when building furniture;
• when working with electrical wiring and its installation;
• the need for holes for mounting under a picture or other interior items.

As you can see, there are many reasons to drill into a wall. The main thing is not only to do the job well, but also to make your life easier by using the right good tool. Which one can you choose to drill concrete?

It would seem that what’s wrong with this: just take a regular drill and drill. But no, in fact, many difficulties may arise in the process of completing this task. Firstly, concrete walls are very strong and difficult to pick up, and secondly, their structure is heterogeneous, and you can easily risk falling on crushed stone or a piece of reinforcement. Stuck with the usual concrete wall You can end up drilling nothing for a long time.

How to drill a hole?

The answer to this question will not be too complicated. The fact is that drilling a concrete wall, as mentioned above, is an extremely difficult process. To solve this issue, it is worth using one of two types of tools: either a hammer drill or a drill.

Both will be good in certain conditions. I'll explain why. It is best, of course, to use a hammer drill: it is intended specifically for concrete walls and common practice is to use it. After all, a hammer drill easily breaks through both stone and concrete surfaces. Another advantage is the ability to drill large-diameter holes, which a drill cannot do.

But, if you have a wall made of foam concrete in front of you, or you need to drill several small holes, a drill will do just fine. In this case, the hammer drill can split the surface of the wall, which is not very successful. But, as already mentioned, do not count on large holes, only with a diameter of no more than 12-15 cm. In addition, drilling a concrete wall has its own nuances, which we will consider below.

How to drill through a concrete wall with a regular drill?

Let's talk a little about drilling with a regular drill. So, let's start with the fact that the usual one is unlikely to work here. Those. theoretically this is, of course, possible. But in practice it is extremely difficult. In this case, it is necessary to use a special Pobedit drill for working on concrete with a tip coated with a hard alloy composition.

The best way is to use a special impact drill. How is it different from the usual one? The fact that in such a drill the movements of the drill are carried out due to special ratchets with teeth interacting with each other. This type of drill is not difficult to use to get high quality work done. To do this, simply switch the drill from normal rotational mode to impact rotation mode.

But it doesn’t matter what type of drill you use, as long as it’s important to use specialized attachments. Attachments (crowns) are sold in two configurations: for impact or non-impact drilling.

The classification of nozzles is as follows:

Serrated drill bits with impact function. A concrete wall can be drilled with such crowns with a cutting edge made of separately soldered teeth made of durable alloys. For quick-release chucks drills are available with such verified SDS tails. Their strength is so high that it is possible to cut metal, but the impact mode contributes to their destruction, creating unacceptable loads. That is why such drills are used to drill a hole between the reinforcement of a reinforced concrete slab or brick walls.

Diamond bit for non-impact drilling. These are more modern attachments that simplify the task several times better than conventional ones. The abrasive edge with cutouts on them is created by diamond sputtering or sputtering of corundum sand. As you know, diamond is distinguished by its unprecedented strength. That is why it can easily cope with the reinforcement of a concrete wall. With such a nozzle you can make a hole at least 1.5 meters deep and more than half a meter in diameter. This type of nozzle is already used by professionals, but nozzles with a diameter of up to 100 mm can easily be used in domestic conditions.

Crowns standard KS. Crowns with diamond crystals embedded on the cutting edge. They can be used for slabs, rocky soils, monolithic concrete structures from high-strength grades. They can easily replace toothed carbide crowns.

Based on your conditions, you can safely select the necessary drill bit for the drill and drill a hole. But there are also a number of recommendations for working with a conventional drill that is not equipped with an impact function.

To do this, you start drilling into the wall, but periodically stop. You need to drive a pointed drill into the concrete surface with your hands and destroy the concrete with metal punches. We take our drill or chisel, other metal devices of the appropriate and required diameter and hit them with a hammer/sledgehammer. Rotate the punch periodically. Then take the drill again.

Please note that when drilling a hole in a concrete wall with a regular drill, you risk breaking the tool. Be sure to give a low-power drill a rest. Drills also tend to heat up, so they need to be cooled with water. In this case, take a break every 10-15 minutes of work, leaving the same amount of time for the instrument to rest.

How to drill a hole in concrete without an impact drill, watch the video: