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Do-it-yourself knife from a blank. How to make a forged knife with your own hands? Forging a knife from a drill

Currently, there is a huge selection of different knives of the highest quality available on the market from manufacturers from all over the world. However, even despite such a wide range, it is the hand-made forged knife that remains the most popular. Such knives are particularly attractive and have high energy. Making a forged knife is not easy. But, having understood the features of forging a knife with your own hands, you will receive a reliable, durable and high-quality product that will serve for many decades without losing its original qualities. For the job to be successful, you need to understand the properties of materials and the features of their processing, be able to handle tools and know the basic rules.

Forged knives are very reliable and durable, which is why they are in demand.

What steel is suitable for forging a knife with your own hands?

Forged knives owe their reliability and durability primarily to the steel used for their manufacture. To get a high-quality knife with good strength and high cutting characteristics, you need to select a suitable source material. When making a knife with your own hands highest value have 5 characteristics of steel, namely:

Metal for forging must have high strength characteristics.

• its resistance to wear;
• hardness indicators;
• strength characteristics;
• material viscosity;
• red fastness.

Hardness characterizes the ability of a material to resist the penetration of third-party materials that have higher strength. Thus, solid steel much more resistant to deformation under various external influences. Hardness is determined by Rockwell. For steel it can be 20-67 HRC.

The resistance of steel, like other materials, to wear should be understood as the resistance of steel to wear during operation. This indicator is directly related to the hardness of the material.

Strength indicates the ability of steel to maintain its integrity under various kinds external influences. This indicator is checked with a powerful blow or bending.

The red resistance of a metal characterizes its resistance to temperature influences.

Plasticity refers to the ability of a material to absorb and then dissipate kinetic energy generated during deformation and impact.

Red resistance characterizes the resistance of a metal to temperature influences and its ability to maintain its original characteristics during the heating process. The lowest temperature at which it is possible to begin forging steel depends on this characteristic.

Each of these characteristics is inextricably linked with the others. If one indicator begins to predominate, this will certainly lead to a noticeable deterioration of the other. Each of the listed properties of the working material depends on the content of various types of additives in it. The composition of steel can include molybdenum, carbon, cobalt, vanadium and chromium, as well as nickel and tungsten.

The presence in the composition of each of these elements and their use in the process of metal manufacturing, knowledge of the qualities imparted by certain substances, allows you to create a material for specific tasks and purposes. Each steel, depending on the percentage of additional elements, has an individual marking. Metals of foreign and domestic production are marked differently. For greater convenience, the marking indicates the main composition or several alloying elements. For example, if steel is designated with the index U9, this means that it contains carbon in tenths of a percent.

An analogue of this marking is 10xx materials. In this case, “xx” indicates the carbon content of the steel. The lower this index, the less carbon contained in the steel. If the metal is marked as X12MF, this means that it contains a relatively large amount of chromium and molybdenum. This steel is stainless and very durable.

Be sure to check the possibility of using the material you have by looking at the steel and alloys brand.

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Preparing tools

Forging a knife is performed using certain blacksmithing tools, which you can purchase without any problems in a specialized store. However, you can try to forge a knife with your own hands and using a non-professional tool. You will need:

The forging hammer should weigh 3-4 kg

• hammer weighing up to 1 kg;
• hammer weighing 3-4 kg;
• welding machine;
• vice;
• grinding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• blacksmith tongs (can be replaced with ordinary pliers, always without insulation on the handles);
• anvil (you can use a homemade analogue of this device from an I-beam);
• adjustable wrench;
• bake.

If with simple tools everything is quite clear, then separate explanations need to be given about the stove. To forge a knife, the steel must be heated to a temperature of 900 degrees. This is almost impossible to do in a simple hearth. Therefore, the hearth needs to be modernized a little. If you have never had to harden steel before, you will have to assemble a stove from thick-walled metal from scratch and connect an air supply pipe to it. The air can be supplied by an old vacuum cleaner or a fan. This design is perfect for heating workpieces up to 900-1200 degrees. The stove can be heated with ordinary charcoal. The best one is the one that burns as long as possible and produces the maximum amount of heat.

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Design features of a forged knife

Before you decide to start forging a knife, you must prepare a sketch of it. Forged knife - quite simple design. Its main elements are the handle and the cutting blade. However, each of these elements consists of a set of different parts.

It will not be superfluous to understand what the profile of the blade may be. This will help you decide on the most suitable option.

Select the most suitable knife profile and then start drawing up the sketch. Experienced blacksmiths, as a rule, work without such sketches, but if you have never had to do such work before, it is better to prepare a sketch and keep it near you at all times while forging a knife.

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Step-by-step instructions for forging a knife with your own hands

Most often, drills are used to forge knives yourself. They are made of steel R6M5.

This material is characterized by high strength and good wear resistance, and is easy to sharpen. That is why forging a knife in this example will be done from a drill.

Once you understand the technology, you can forge your own knife from other steel products.

When choosing a drill for forging a knife, you need to consider one very important point. The working part (it has a spiral shape) of large drills is made of R6M5 steel, and the tail is made of plain steel. Small drills are usually made entirely of P6M5. If you use a large drill to make a knife, you need to immediately figure out where the line between different steels lies. This is done very easily. You just need to slightly sharpen the existing drill to length. Plain steel will produce sparks of a yellow-orange hue and there will be quite a lot of them. Alloy steel produces sparks of a reddish hue in relatively small quantities. By doing this, you will be able to understand where the blade of your future knife will begin and where the shank will begin. After this, you can proceed directly to forging.

Light a fire in the stove, turn on the blower and wait until the coals get quite hot. Place the drill into the crucible. Use pliers for this. The drill must be placed in the furnace so that most of its shank does not enter the fire.

Without experience, it can be difficult to determine when the steel has reached the required temperature. Because of this, you can simply ruin the drill. Before working with a drill, practice a little with heating and forging ordinary reinforcement. Watch for changes occurring in the metal. Remember what color it had when it was forged as softly as possible. Take into account the fact that in the light of the sun, even steel heated to 1000-1100 degrees will look quite dark.

After the drill heats up to the required temperature (over 1000 degrees), remove it from the furnace. Clamp the bottom of the drill bit shank in a vise. Take an adjustable wrench, clamp the top of the drill bit and make a circular motion. As a result, the spiral should straighten out. Do everything quickly before the metal cools down, otherwise the product may break. If you cannot do this in one go, you need to heat the metal again and repeat the procedure. Do this until you have a relatively straight strip of metal.

Heating of metal for forging should occur at high temperatures so that it can be heated to 1000 degrees.

Next you need to roll out the metal to the required thickness. This is done quite easily. Heat the metal, take a heavy hammer and apply strong, but as even blows as possible, giving the workpiece an even shape. Do this until you get a strip of steel about 0.5 cm thick.

During forging, watch for changes in the color of the workpiece. If the metal begins to dull and takes on a cherry hue, return it to the forge immediately. It is better to heat the steel again than to break it with a hammer.

At the next stage, the tip of a homemade knife is forged. This is where things get a little more complicated. You will need to give the workpiece a rounded shape without changing the thickness of the blade. This is jewelry work that will require some skill from you. Forging should be done so that the tip of the knife gradually becomes rounded and the blade extends in length. Apply fairly strong, but extremely careful blows. You may not succeed the first time, it just takes a little practice.

After that you need to forge cutting edge knife This is a difficult but very important stage. Prepare a light hammer, with a rounded head if possible. Start processing from the middle of the blade, gradually moving the steel down towards the cutting edge. You need to try to make the cutting edge as thin as possible. Make sure that the knife blade remains smooth and straight. Strike as carefully as possible, applying exactly the amount of force required to slightly deform the hot steel. Do not forget to monitor the color of the material; if necessary, send it back to the crucible.

Next you will need to forge the shank. This job is much easier than forging a blade. Heat the round tail of the drill and roll it out with fairly strong blows. The shank can be wide or narrow. It depends on your personal preferences. You can make either a simple pad or a stacked handle.

Today, even with such a large assortment of different knives of excellent quality from well-known manufacturers, hand-forged knives are still very popular. This is not surprising, since such knives have a special energy and attractiveness. And if the blade itself is made of alloy steel and with skill, then such a knife is priceless. From in various ways When making a knife with your own hands, the most labor-intensive is forging a knife with your own hands. It should be noted that forging a knife allows you to create the most durable and high-quality blade that will last for decades and at the same time retain its qualities. Forging a knife with your own hands is a task that requires a master high level tool skills, knowledge of metals and their properties. For those who have decided to forge a knife for the first time, the recommendations described below will help you make your first blade.

How to choose knife steel

A quality homemade knife is distinguished by correct selection steel for it, the cutting and strength characteristics of the knife itself will depend on this. To choose the right steel, you need to know and understand what properties the steel itself has. To forge a knife with your own hands, you need to focus on the five main properties of steel - wear resistance, hardness, strength, toughness, and red-hardness.

Hardness- this is a property of steel, indicating its ability to resist the penetration of another more hard material. Simply put, hard steel resists deformation better. The hardness index itself is measured on the Rockwell scale and ranges from 20 to 67 HRC.

Wear resistance- resistance of the material to wear during operation. This property directly depends on the hardness of the steel itself.

Strength indicates the ability to maintain integrity under the influence of various external forces. You can check the strength by bending or with a strong impact.

Plastic- the ability of steel to absorb and dissipate kinetic energy during impact and deformation.

Red fastness- this is an indicator responsible for the resistance of steel to temperatures and the preservation of its original qualities when heated. The minimum temperature at which it can be forged depends on how resistant the steel is to heat treatment. The most red-resistant steels are hard grades, operating temperature forgings for which more than 900 °C. It should be noted that the melting point of steel is 1450 - 1520 °C.

All these properties are interconnected and the predominance of one of them leads to the deterioration of the other. Moreover, this or that property of steel depends on the content of various alloying elements and additives in it, such as silicon, carbon, chromium, vanadium, tungsten, cobalt, nickel, molybdenum.

The presence of certain alloying elements and their proportional use in the manufacture of steel, knowledge of the properties that alloying elements and additives impart, made it possible to create steel for specific purposes and needs. These steels each have their own markings. At the same time, domestic and foreign steel grades are designated differently. For convenience, the steel grade indicates the main composition of one or more alloying elements. For example, steel grade U9 indicates its carbon content in tenths of a percent. An analogue of steel grade “U” is steel 10xx, where “xx” is the carbon content. And the smaller the value, the smaller its content. Or steel such as X12MF indicates a high content of chromium and molybdenum, which indicates the stainless and high-strength properties of the steel.

Domestic brands, which are often used when forging knives at home, include all steels marked from U7 to U16, ШХ15, 65G, R6M5, X12MF. Among foreign analogues, steel can be distinguished O-1, 1095 , 52100 ,M-2, A-2, 440C, AUS, ATS-34, D-2. Each of the above brands is used in the manufacture of knives, various tools and spare parts. For example, steel grades R6M5, U7-U13, 65G are used for the production of drills, drills, cables, springs, bearings, and files. Therefore, it is from these items that folk craftsmen make hand-forged knives.

Of course, you can find other products made from one or another steel. To do this, it will be enough to read full description grades of steel and its use in the Making of Steel and Alloys, and then use a product made from it to forge a knife.

To forge a knife you will need a certain blacksmith's tool, which can be purchased at the store. But you can also use a non-professional tool:

• a hammer of 3 - 4 kg and a hammer of smaller weight up to 1 kg;
• blacksmith's tongs or ordinary pliers, but without insulation on the handles, as well as an adjustable wrench;
• vice;
• an anvil or its homemade analogue from an I-beam;
• grinder and welding machine;
• grinding machine;
• bake.

If with ordinary tool everything is more or less clear, some clarifications need to be made about the stove. The thing is that in an ordinary fireplace it is difficult to obtain a temperature of more than 900 °C. And the workpiece will take forever to warm up there. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the hearth a little. If you have not previously at least hardened metal, you will have to make a small furnace from scratch from thick-walled metal. Then attach a pipe to it, through which air will flow using a fan or an old vacuum cleaner. In this simple way, you can get a fairly reliable crucible for bringing workpieces to a temperature of 900 - 1200 ° C. Regular charcoal is used as fuel, preferably one that gives as much heat as possible and burns longer.

Before starting the work itself, you need to do sketch the knife itself.

In fact, a knife is a fairly simple object, consisting of a blade and a handle. But each of these elements has a whole set of components. In the photo demonstrating the design of the knife, you can see all the elements of the knife and what they are called.

You also need to know about some basic blade profiles in order to make the most suitable sketch. The photo below shows the profiles of the knives.

Having chosen the most suitable profile for you, you can safely begin creating a sketch. Certainly, experienced craftsmen do without sketching, but for a beginner it is still important to make a sketch and keep it before your eyes during the forging process.

Forging a knife from a drill

Drills have become very popular when forging knives due to the alloy steel R6M5 used in them, which is durable, easy to sharpen and wear-resistant.

When choosing a drill for forging, there is one important point to note. Large drills consist of a working spiral part made of P6M5 and a shank made of ordinary steel. Small drills are usually made entirely of P6M5. When forging a knife from a large drill, you must immediately determine which steel is which and where the boundary between them is. This can be done quite simply, just by sharpening the drill a little along the entire length. Where there is ordinary steel, the sheaf of sparks will be large and yellow-orange in color. But where there is alloy steel, the sheaf will be sparse and closer to a reddish tint. The procedure described above is necessary in order to determine where the blade of the knife will begin and where the shank will begin. Having finished with this, we move on to the forging itself.

In the beginning light a fire in the stove, turn on the blower and wait until the coals get hot enough, after which place the drill in the crucible. But we do this using pliers and so that the shank mostly stayed out of the fire.

Important! When forging a knife for the first time, you may not immediately determine when the metal has heated to the required temperature. As a result, more than one drill can be damaged. Therefore, before you start forging a drill, you can practice a little with heating and forging metal on ordinary fittings. In this case, it is necessary to remember what color the metal was and when it was forged most softly. It is also worth remembering that the sunlight even metal heated to 1100 °C will look dark.

As soon as the drill will heat up to the required temperature, which is more than 1000 °C, it is immediately necessary remove from the crucible, and clamp the bottom of the shank in a vice. Then take an adjustable wrench, hold the top of the drill with it and make a circular motion, straightening the spiral. Everything must be done quickly so that the metal does not have time to cool, otherwise you risk breaking the drill. If you couldn't do it in one go, that's okay. Just reheat the drill and repeat the procedure. The result should be a relatively smooth strip of metal.

The next step would be forging drill And rolling metal to an acceptable thickness. Everything is quite simple here. Having heated the metal to the required temperature, we take a heavy hammer and begin to level the metal with strong but uniform blows and give it an even shape. The result should be a strip of metal about 4 - 5 mm thick.

Important! When forging metal, you must constantly monitor the color of the workpiece. As soon as it begins to fade, acquiring a cherry color, we immediately return it to the forge. It is better to heat the metal one more time than to break it under a hammer blow.

Next the edge of a knife is forged. Everything is a little more complicated here. The fact is that it is necessary to give a rounded shape and at the same time maintain the required thickness of the blade. All the work is practically jewelry and will require a certain dexterity. Forging is performed in such a way that gradually rounding the tip, the blade is gradually drawn out in length. The blows must be strong, but careful. A beginner may not succeed the first time, but a little practice will improve everything.

The next step would be forging the cutting edge of a knife. This is a rather important and difficult stage. This will require a lighter hammer and preferably one with a rounded head. Starting from the middle of the blade, we gradually move the metal down to the cutting edge. We try to make the cutting edge as thin as possible. At the same time, we make sure that the blade itself remains straight and even. We apply the blows very carefully and try to apply only as much effort as is required to slightly deform the hot metal. We remember the color of the workpiece and, if necessary, send it back to the crucible.

After we managed to forge the blade and point, move on to forging the shank. The work itself will be much simpler than when forging a blade. First, we heat the round shank of the drill and then roll it out with strong hammer blows. Depending on the sketch, the shank can be either narrow or wide. Here, who already likes to make the handle of a knife. Some people make simple overlays, while others make a stacked handle.

Upon completion of forging, let the metal cool gradually and then let's move on to polishing. Using a grinding machine, we remove excess layers of metal and unevenness, making the knife perfectly smooth and shiny. When sanding, up to 2 mm of thickness can be removed, and the knife will become much lighter and thinner. You can also sharpen the knife at this stage. Finally, we harden the knife. How this is done will be written below.

Forging a knife from a drill video review:

Another popular material for forging knives is the bearing, namely its inner or outer rim. Moreover, the internal one is even preferable. All work on forging a knife from a bearing is almost identical to forging from a drill. With some exceptions.

First, we cut out the blank from the bearing rim using a grinder. We try to take the length with a reserve, so that there is enough for the knife and another 1 - 2 cm left. Secondly, at the initial stage of forging, the cut blank should be welded to the reinforcement bar. And in this form, heat and forge. Thirdly, if in the case of a drill the workpiece was rolled out from round to flat, then for the bearing race it simply needs to be aligned. And the further steps for forging the blade itself and the shank are completely similar. The only thing worth noting is that it is still more convenient to make a knife with applied handles from the bearing.

Forging a knife from a bearing video review:

Looking for the right steel for quality knife many use springs. The metal of this car part is highly elastic and durable, which makes it an excellent example for hand-forged knives. In fairness, it should be noted that a knife from a spring can be made by simply cutting out the profile of the knife with further sharpening and hardening. But still, for the knife to be truly reliable, it is better to forge it, especially since the thickness of the spring is quite large, and for good knife it should be reduced.

We begin forging a knife from a spring by cleaning off rust with a grinder and marking the plate. Only a small part of the spring will be needed, so mark it and cut it off using a grinder. Next, we weld the workpiece to the reinforcement and heat it up. Then we gradually forge it, bringing it to required thickness. We forge the tip and cutting edge; how to do this is described above using the example of forging a knife from a drill. Having achieved the desired result, we leave the knife to cool gradually and then grind and sharpen it.

Forging a knife from a spring video review:

Forging a knife from a file

Wear-resistant and durable steel can be found in various metalworking tools, and a file is a prime example of this. Making knives from a file is quite a popular activity. Moreover, the blades are extremely durable with an excellent cutting edge. But forging a knife from a file has its own characteristics.

First of all, you will need to clean the file from nicks and possible rust. This can be done using a grinder. Next, if necessary, cut the workpiece from the file required length. Then we weld it to a piece of reinforcement and put it in the furnace. Having heated the workpiece to the required temperature, we begin to roll the workpiece to the thickness we need. Then we make the point and cutting edge. It is best to make the shank of a knife from a file under an overhead handle.

Forging a knife from a file video review:

Forging a knife from a rope

Making a knife from steel cable is quite rare. Since, unlike all the workpieces described above, the cable consists of scattered wire fibers, and it is quite difficult to forge them. In addition, cable steel does not have such high performance, like the steel of a drill or file. Most cable knives are forged because of their unusual pattern on the wedge, vaguely reminiscent of Damascus steel. In order to make such a knife, you need to put in a little more effort than when forging from a regular steel bar.

Forging a knife from a cable begins like regular forging. There are just a few little secrets. Firstly, this concerns the shank. Many craftsmen make a knife shank from a cable in the form of a finished handle. It looks very unusual and beautiful. And here there are two approaches to making a handle. Take a thick cable and then weld its end, making it a monolithic piece. Or make a handle in the shape of a loop, and forge a blade from the ends. Secondly, forging a cable is a difficult task due to the scattered wires that make up the cable. To make a knife, you will need to weld them together. But this is a whole art and you shouldn’t expect that you will get a knife out of a cable the first time. Welding can be done in two ways. The first is to electric weld along the large grooves. The second is to perform forge welding. The second option is more complicated and at the same time preferable.

So, having chosen the method of creating the handle, we proceed to forging the knife. To do this, heat the cable until it turns bright red. Then we take it out and sprinkle it with borax. After which we send it back to the crucible. This is a simple way to prepare for forge welding. is a salt of tetraboric acid and is used by craftsmen for welding individual layers of steel. Essentially, it is a flux that facilitates the melting process and protects the molten metal from oxygen and eliminates metal oxides. Borax can be found in the public domain without any problems.

After the cable has been treated with borax on all sides and it has heated up from 900 to 1200°C or more, we remove it from the furnace and begin to forge it. We strike with a heavy hammer, but at the same time we try to keep the cable fibers together. The difficulty of forging a cable lies precisely in this. But with practice you can achieve acceptable results. In the end, the cable can be heated and forged as many times as desired. But at the same time, every time you heat it in the forge, sprinkle the cable with borax. The result is a monolithic piece of steel consisting of many layers, almost like Damascus steel. After which all that remains is to forge the blade of the required shape. Videos demonstrating the forging of knives have repeatedly shown exactly how to roll out a blade and create a cutting edge and point.

Blade hardening and tempering

As noted earlier, hardening a knife is one of the most important stages of its manufacture. After all, the performance characteristics of the knife depend on how correctly it was performed. The hardening process itself is performed after the knife has cooled and been ground on a sharpening machine.

Begins by heating it from light red to orange color. After which the knife is lowered into water or oil. In this case, add 2 - 3 tablespoons to the water table salt per 1 liter, and the water temperature should be 18 - 25 °C, oil 25 - 30 °C. Hardening is carried out quite quickly and for everything to go well after hardening, the blade must be released. The steel hardening itself occurs in the temperature range from 750 to 550 °C. The moment of hardening can even be felt when the steel begins to “tremble and groan” in the liquid. As soon as the process ends, the blade must be removed and allowed to cool naturally.

Blade release performed after hardening. The process itself involves weakening the internal stress of the steel, which makes it more flexible and resistant to various kinds loads Before tempering, the blade should be cleaned of possible scale and then heated again. But the temperature during vacation is much lower. The knife itself must be held over the flame and observed. As soon as the entire surface is covered with a yellow-orange film, remove the knife from the heat and let it cool naturally.

Sometimes quenching and tempering are done with oil or water, and sometimes through oil into water. This hardening is done very quickly. First, the blade is lowered into oil for 2 - 3 seconds, and then into water. With this approach, the risk of doing the hardening incorrectly is minimal.

Forging a knife with your own hands seems like a simple task. In addition to the fact that you will have to swing the forging hammer quite a lot, even without experience in the matter of forging metal, you may not be able to forge a knife the first time. Therefore, you first need to get good at it and practice a little, and then start forging a knife.

A hunting knife is essential for every hunter. First of all, it is used for finishing and butchering prey, but besides this, it remains a faithful assistant in a variety of hunting situations. Nowadays you can find a huge number of different models and modifications of blades on sale. But despite this, the need to make your own knife may arise. This usually happens due to the inability to buy the blade you need, either to replace a lost or broken one you love, or one you saw from friends and liked, or the knife you need is not on sale.

Making a knife from a 9HF saw

In this article we will not focus on the shape and design of the blade, the type and width of the sharpening, etc. We believe that finished project or we already have a sample and will focus on the production itself.

In order for a homemade hunting knife to meet the basic requirements for such blades, it is recommended to make it from high-carbon alloy steels. For example:

• 9HF– tool alloy steel, used for the manufacture of frames, strips and circular saws, punches, trimming dies and a number of other tools. Usually saw blades are used as blanks;
• R6M5– high-speed alloy steel of high strength. It is used for the manufacture of many types of cutting tools, drills, saw wheels, the latter can be used to make a workpiece;
• 65G– spring steel, with high wear resistance, can be blued and blackened. They make springs, springs, gears, etc. For blanks, in addition to sheets, rear springs are used trucks. Considered one of the cheapest knife materials;
• X12, R3M3F2 and a number of others are also suitable.

The material for the workpiece can be taken from the above products, although now on the Internet you can order a plate for the workpiece from almost any steel. As a recommendation, take a pendulum saw blade for metal, the usual dimensions are 400x30 mm, thickness 2 mm, rough surface, color black or gray.
If you want to make a homemade knife at home, in addition to the material for the workpiece, we will need:

• Corner grinder(Bulgarian)
• Wheels for it, cutting wheels for alloy steel, for example inox A54S BF, sharpening and grinding.
• Drill or drilling machine
• Vise
• Pobedite and other special drills
• Files and diamond files
• Emery machine (very desirable).

The knife making process will be as follows:

The handle of the knife can be wound using paracord or made of wood; in the latter case, we drill holes in the handle according to a template, according to a sample or drawing. Drill holes special drills with accompanying cooling using oil. It is more convenient to do this on a drilling machine.

To simplify the process, holes are drilled first with small diameter drills and then gradually drilled out to the desired size.

Handle

Knives are decorated with different handles. The choice of material for their manufacture depends on the purposes for which the knife is intended, ease of use and personal preferences of the owner. Below are two ways to make a knife handle at home.

Wrapping the handle with paracord in a few minutes

Using a paracord cord as a knife handle is not only easier and faster, but also more practical. You will always have a couple of meters of cord with you, which can be used for a variety of purposes when surviving in extreme situations.

For the winding we need:

• cord, 2 – 2.5 m;
• thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
• lighter or matches;
• scissors;
• gloves;
• screwdriver.

Before you start winding the cord, decide whether you need a lanyard loop and if so, where it will be, on the side of the blade near the stop or at the end of the handle. If it is available, in addition to the ability to hang a knife, in the first case you can thread it thumb, to make it more convenient and reliable to hold the knife, in the second, you can use it to remove the knife from the sheath, etc.

Paracord is wound in the following order:

• We wet the cord, and it stretches better, and when it dries, it will sit more solidly on the knife.
• We seal the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts or cutting the cord. It is better to perform all operations with gloves.
  
• We press one end of the cord on the head of the handle so that 10 cm remains free.
  
• We form a loop from the cord, laid along the handle so that the top of the loop protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond the cord winding area.
  
• Then holding the knife in your left hand and pressing thumb both ends of the loop, with your right hand we begin to wind the cord around the handle, starting from its head.
  We make the winding tight, turn to turn, do not tighten it too much, keep in mind that the cord will still shrink after drying.
  
• Having brought the winding all the way to the blade, we thread the remaining end of the cord into the protruding part of the loop.
• We cut off the excess cord, leaving about 3–5 cm, and burn the end of the cord.
  
• After this, pulling the free end of the cord from the side of the handle head, we pull the loop under the winding until the end threaded into it is hidden under the winding. Avoid pulling the loop completely out, otherwise the entire winding will unravel.

Winding is complete. With this option of winding, we will not have a loop for a lanyard. If we want to form it, the winding is somewhat more complicated. Initially, two loops are placed on the handle on both sides of the knife.

To form a loop for a lanyard on the head of a knife, the end of the cord is pressed onto the head of the handle and one loop is pulled to the blade, then the cord is thrown over the head and a second loop is placed on the other side. The winding starts from the head of the knife. Having finished the winding, the remaining end is threaded through both loops near the blade and pulled under the winding by the loop in the headband, thereby forming it.

So that the loop is near the stop, we do the same thing, but on the contrary, we start laying and winding from the stop, and pull the loop there to tighten the clamped end under the winding.

Making an overhead handle as an alternative to paracord

If you are a classicist and want to make a regular handle, use wood for this purpose. It is more accessible, easier to work with, the wooden handle is more pleasant to the touch, does not get cold, slips less in the hand, and if processed correctly, does not absorb moisture. The handle of a knife can be made of oak, beech, maple, birch, walnut or mahogany. In order not to waste time and effort on preparing and drying wood, there are two simple ways get her. The first is parquet, you can buy it in a special store, where, by the way, expensive varieties are sold individually. Second - old furniture, in the attic, in the garage, at the dacha, with friends, you can always find unnecessary household rubbish and use it.
For the handle you need two dies if you have a hand standard size, then 10 - 15 mm thick, this is with a margin for processing, so that the thickness of the future handle is about 20 mm. The length of the workpieces is 150 - 200 mm, so that there is room for fixing them during initial processing.

In addition to the tree, we will need:

• dowels made of aluminum, copper, brass, iron according to the number of holes and the corresponding diameter;
• drill with drills or drilling machine;
• drills according to the number of holes in the handle of the same diameter;
• a sharpening or grinding machine, it can be replaced by a wood file and a lot, a lot of time;
• jigsaw or manual jigsaw, or see the previous paragraph;
• an engraving machine or a file with a needle file;
• sandpaper of different numbers down to the finest;
• epoxy based adhesive;
• linseed oil;
• thick adhesive tape or electrical tape;
• vice, clamp.

We make the handle as follows:

1. Before starting work, wrap the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts.
2. The first step is drilling. We place the knife blank on a wooden block, press it with a clamp or, at worst, wrap it with tape and drill holes. To make the hole neat, first drill with a thin drill, and then drill out to required diameter. After the first hole has been drilled, we insert a key or a drill of the same diameter into it, this is done to fix it so that the die does not move. Let's move on to the next hole.
   
3. We drill the second die in the same way.
4. After drilling, we assemble the dies on a knife, using keys or drills, to make sure that all the holes match.
   
5. Then, attaching the dies one by one to the knife using dowels or drills and a clamp, we outline the contour of the handle along the contour of the knife. It is advisable to mark the handle with a slight indentation, 1 - 2 mm, for subsequent processing.
6. After marking, we cut out the handle with a jigsaw or grind it on a grinding wheel; in extreme cases, the file is in your hands.
   
7. Preparing the dowels. To make the homemade knife look aesthetically pleasing, we will not rivet the dowels, but glue them in. To do this, use an engraving machine or a file to make chaotic cuts on the keys, in which the glue will harden and set. At the ends of the keys we remove an inclined chamfer at 450.
   
8. Since after gluing it will be inconvenient to process the cheeks of the stop, we finally process and polish them using sandpaper.
9. We carefully sand the handle halves from the inside so that they fit tightly when gluing to the plane of the knife shank.
10. Before gluing, we make a final test assembly.
11. We carry out the gluing itself according to the instructions for the glue. The assembly procedure is as follows: lubricate inner side one half, insert dowels greased with glue into it, put a knife on them, and then the greased second half.
    We clamp the assembled handle in a vice and remove the excess squeezed out glue. Leave the clamped handle for a day.
12. After the glue has hardened using files, emery, grinding wheel and so on, we finally shape, sharpen and polish the handle of the knife.
    
    
    
13. When the handle is completely polished, it is time to soak. It is best to saturate wood with linseed oil. You can buy it in a store for artists, they use it to dilute oil paints.
    The handle is kept in oil for three days to a week. The process can be speeded up by boiling the handle in oil for a couple of hours, but you must strictly monitor the temperature, otherwise the glue may leak.
    
14. Then the handle should dry at natural temperature for about a month, during which time the oil will polymerize and the wood will harden and become impervious to moisture.
15. After drying, the handle is finally polished with a soft cloth.

Sharpening for beginners

Before we talk about sharpening hunting knife, we need to remind you that homemade knives made from the metals recommended in the article, they are very difficult and take a long time to sharpen, since the alloy steels used have high hardness. This must be remembered when using a knife for purposes other than its intended purpose.

Now about the sharpening itself. At home, knives are sharpened on special sharpening stones. Such stones are ceramic (the cheapest and most common), diamond, natural and Japanese sea stones. The principle of sharpening on them is approximately the same, so in the future, by default, we will talk about the most common ceramic sharpening stone.
To sharpen a knife efficiently, it is advisable to have either two sharpening stone of different grain sizes, or, what happens more often, a sharpening stone whose sides have different grain sizes. For ease of sharpening, the size, or rather the length, of the stone should be greater than the length of the knife blade.

It is advisable to sharpen a knife with both hands, so it is advisable to place the sharpening stone on a separate board, securing it either in a hole specially cut for this purpose, or using six nails driven into the sides.
Sharpening the knife begins on the roughest stone. At this stage, the whetstone does not need to be wetted. We place the stone arbitrarily on the table, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to sharpen on it.

The entire sharpening process consists of giving the edge of the blade an acute angular shape. When doing this, you need to remember a few basic rules:

• need to pick up optimal angle sharpening the knife and sticking to it throughout the entire process;
• The knife is driven across the stone with the blade forward, as if cutting off a thin layer from it;
• in one movement you need to sweep the entire edge of the blade for uniform sharpening;
• the edge of the blade should always be perpendicular to the direction of movement;
• each next time the blade must be turned over and held with the other side so as not to displace the center of the blade chamfer;
• movements should be smooth, without pressure;
• It is better to sharpen both sides with a unidirectional movement, either towards yourself or away from yourself, since moving the hand away from you is always worse and weaker than moving it towards yourself.

Now regarding the sharpening angle. It can be from 450 to 300, in the first case the knife will hold an edge longer, in the second it will be sharper. It is better to sharpen a hunting knife exactly at 300, this is not difficult to achieve, just when sharpening, move the knife as if you were cutting a thin slice of butter or cheese.

After you have turned the initial sharpness and brought out the angle of the blade edge, you can move on to a stone of lesser dispersion. It is advisable to periodically moisten it with water so that the edge of the blade glides better and metal dust does not clog the pores.
You can finally sharpen the blade to a mirror shine and razor sharpness by sharpening it on an old leather belt with GOI paste. Main feature editing with GOI paste is that the knife is led in the opposite direction to the blade, i.e. butt forward.

Making a sheath (case) from leather

One of the necessary accessories for a hunting knife is a sheath. They are needed to protect the blade from dulling, and everything around from cuts and damage to things.

You can make a homemade sheath yourself at home, from a small piece of leather about 3 mm thick.

For this, in addition to the skin, you will need:

• scissors;
• a sheet of thick paper for a template;
• pen;
• an awl (a sharpened nail or nails can replace it);
• small nails and a hammer;
• universal glue;
• fork;
• paraffin candle;
• fine sandpaper or grinder;
• nylon thread and one or two large needles;
• pliers;
• snap closure;
• wax or cream.

The procedure for making the cover will be as follows:

1. Making a template. Applying the knife blade to a sheet of paper, trace it along the contour.
   Then around this contour with a centimeter indent we draw another contour, it will be the main one. Cut out the template along the outer contour. Separately, we cut out a T-shaped part for the fastener, the width of the harness is about 20 mm, and we measure the length of the harness along the handle of the knife.
2. Mark the details on the skin. Having attached the template to the leather, we outline the part for one side of the sheath, then, moving the template to the side by 5 - 8 mm, we outline only one side to get a part for half of the insert.
   Then, turning the template over, we repeat the steps, outlining the second side and the second half of the insert. We apply and outline the T-shaped part of the fastener.
   
3. Take scissors and carefully cut out all the details from the leather.
   
4. Applying it to the knife, we try on all the details to see if they match.
   
5. We rub the ends of the insert on the clasp with paraffin candles, and then sand them using sandpaper.
   
   
   
6. We apply the fastener to one half, and using an awl and nails we mark and punch holes for the thread, in two rows.
   
7. We sew the fastener; the thread can be pre-lubricated with paraffin.
   
8. For ease of subsequent stitching, we glue the parts together. We cut out a part from the template along the contour of the blade itself. We place this part on the half of the sheath and coat it with glue around it so that the glue does not come out beyond the inserts. Glue according to the instructions on the tube. Lubricate and glue the inserts.
   
9. At the tip of the sheath, between the inserts, we cut a groove for ventilation.
   
10. Glue the other half. We place the sheath under the press for a while for high-quality gluing.
    
11. We check how the knife fits and sits.
    
12. Use sandpaper to sand the edges of the sheath.
    
13. Using a fork, running two prongs along the edge of the sheath, outline the outline for stitching. Use a fork to mark the holes for the thread.
    
14. If you want, you can get fancy by cutting a thread groove into the face of the scabbard so it's flush with the leather. In this case, it will then need to be polished with wax or cream in the same color as the scabbard.
    
15. Punch holes for the thread with an awl.
    
16. We sew the cover. You can sew with one thread, or with two threads, threading them through the holes one at a time.
17. Attach the button clasp.
    
    
    
18. We finally grind and polish the scabbard with wax or cream.
    

The scabbard is ready.

Given the huge selection of not only knives, but all tools, anyone will have a question - why? Why bother, rivet, hew, sharpen, if you can buy a ready-made tool? But when faced with how to make a knife from a file, you will learn many interesting nuances of processing and hardening and try them out in practice.

Making a knife from a file - preparation

The process of making a knife from a file is extremely educational, because, in fact, a file is an ordinary steel blank just for such things! And if you also find Soviet instruments that were made from homogeneous carbon steel U10, then the result of your labors may subsequently surprise you!

In addition to the workpiece file itself, you will need:

• brass rivets;
• ferric chloride for etching;
• epoxy resin;
• vice;
• magnet;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• Bulgarian;
• grinding machine;
• handle material (wood, leather, metal);
• and a lot of healthy enthusiasm!

How to make a knife from a file - firing the workpiece

The first thing you will have to do is fire the file. Ideal option– keep the workpiece for 4-6 hours in a burning stove or oven and let it cool with it. But you can get by with a regular gas stove - but this is more of a way out than a recommendation. The essence of firing is clear - let the steel be calcined at a temperature of 600-700 °C and cool slowly. By and large, you only need to burn the part that will be the blade itself, so if you still have to use a gas stove, take this point into account.

The stove gives a low temperature, so some tricks are needed, namely, the construction of a heat shield. This is done much easier than it sounds - you just need to build a small hill of nuts or bolts above the file, on which a metal plate is placed. As a result, the temperature from gas combustion will escape into the air to a lesser extent and heat the file more.

It is very important to sprinkle the heated area with regular kitchen salt. This is a kind of indicator - if it melts during the process, then everything was successful, but if it does not melt, then the temperature was insufficient, and you need to repeat the process. When heated under the plate, the workpiece should have an even color of hot metal, which is important to keep for at least three to four hours.

The temperature after the main firing should be reduced gradually - first we reduce the burning force by a quarter, after half an hour we turn it up again, and so on until it cools completely. All this is done for a reason, and you should not ignore this nuance - steel that has cooled sharply will simply crumble.

Forming, hardening and tempering is an important sequence!

In the workshop, holding the workpiece in a vice, we cut off and cut off unnecessary pieces, or grind it on a coarse-grained abrasive disk, giving the file a completely different shape - the shape of the future knife. If the knife is decorated with wood or other plates, do not forget to drill holes for rivets in the handle or cut a groove with a grinder.

Hardening is the next stage after formation. Many people make a big mistake by basing their assessment of the degree of hardening on the glow of the heated metal, but only an ordinary magnet can show the real picture - if the hot metal does not react in any way to its presence, then the hardening has been brought to the required degree. The future blade should be heated evenly, with the exception of the handle section; it should only be heated small area 3-4 cm at the base of the blade. For this, it is best to use a burner that produces a higher temperature.

Also prepare a container of water in which you will cool the metal. When you achieve a uniform glow of the metal and the magnet stops reacting to it, warm the workpiece for a few more minutes, and then sharply plunge it into water - just like in the movies! If the process has been followed in every detail, the metal will be able to scratch the glass - this is the most best sign good hardening.

But due to the high internal pressure hardened steel tends to break, crack and crumble when sharpened, so you need to temper it - a process through which internal stress is relieved while slightly reducing the hardness of the metal.

This is exactly what metal drills do! There is absolutely nothing complicated in the process itself - you just need to put the workpiece in the oven and bake it for an hour and a half at a temperature of about 200 ° C. The workpiece must cool down together with the oven!

Finishing the blade and handle - how to do it right?

After all these manipulations, you can begin finishing the blade. You can use all available tools that are intended for grinding: sandpaper, metal brushes, felt, vulcanite wheels, etc. There is no need to be zealous - there is still an etching process ahead. Your task is to give the blade smoothness and bring its surface into a neat appearance.

Before etching, you can attach linings to the handle from the material we have planned, or wrap the metal with a strip of leather, it’s a matter of taste. In the first case, the finishing treatment must be carried out after etching, but leather can be wrapped already at this stage. You will need at least a half meter solid piece. First, do a simple wrap to see how the knife will look in this design, whether the piece of leather is long enough, and how the knife will feel in your hand. If you are happy with everything, unwind the handle and apply special leather glue to the back of the leather strip, carefully wrap the handle, this time trying as hard as you can.

A wooden handle will take longer to process. The holes for the rivets should be filled with epoxy resin, then the handle should be fastened with rivets and clamped in a vice until the resin has completely cooled.. Two rivets will be enough. Once the resin has hardened, you can shape the handle, but do not rush into the final processing. First - etching! If there is a radio store nearby, you can buy ferric chloride, in which the blade is etched until it obtains a gray, matte tint.

The film that forms on the blade will protect it from corrosion, so try not to remove it. If ferric chloride is too rare for you, etching can be done with improvised means: vinegar, lemon juice or even ground raw potatoes! It is very important to clean the blades of any type of contamination, because when etching, even your fingerprints may appear on it, and then you will have to clean off the oxide film and start all over again.

Sharpening the blade is the end!

When the etching is complete, the epoxy resin will harden. So now is the time to start finishing the handle and sharpening the blade. If the handle is wooden, it needs to be given final form, sand and wax. When the handle is completely ready, you can begin to important stage- to sharpening! It is best to do this manually using a regular manual whetstone, since you can allow the metal to overheat. For straightening, use kitchen grinder - this is the name of a round rod with notches, which often comes with kitchen knives.

A properly made knife will cut perfectly, plus anyone can sharpen it even on an ordinary stone, or even on the bottom of a mug! In addition, you won’t mind using such a tool in the workshop, doing all the work that would quickly cause ordinary knives to grind down and become dull. It is possible that you will enjoy doing this process again and again - in this case, you will always have a worthy gift for your friends at hand!

When hearing the word knife, a person imagines two pictures. Housewife chopping kitchen tool vegetables for salad, and a hunter making his way through the thicket, with the handle of a bladed weapon sticking out of his belt in his sheath. Edged weapons have always been of interest to men. The designer knives of the production masters fascinate with their appearance and attract with a silent force that is felt in every bend of the steel.

The price of weapons ranges from 7 to 22 thousand rubles. Below we will tell you how to make a knife at home.

History of development from stone to modern

Man first began to use a knife immediately after he stopped walking on all fours and began to get food with improvised means. The tools that people began to use for hunting and farming were fragments of bones or stones. The first ones were much easier to make, due to the fragility of the animal’s bones, but such products dulled unusually quickly, and not all components of the skeleton were suitable for the role of a sharp tool.

To make a knife from stone, primitive man had to put in a lot of effort. However, the laboriousness of the process was compensated by its relative strength and the ability to sharpen the edge of a stone blade. Another advantage of a stone knife over a bone one was the durability of the tool. Bone weapons were fragile and often broke during hunting, so this type gradually passed into economic use and construction.

At the time of human mastery of metalworking, edged weapons began to be made from bronze and copper. They were significantly superior to stone samples in terms of durability. The blades were made from a single piece of metal. Swords, daggers, and knives of those times became indispensable weapons for the soldiers of the Roman Empire, with the help of which troops conquered new territories.

The Iron Age is a century of experiments and new technologies. Knives acquired different shapes and lengths; at this time, sickle-shaped and wave-shaped blades were invented. In Rus' at that time, edged weapons were included in the attributes of the nobility and merchants. The Vikings used wood to make sword hilts so that the steel, frozen in the cold, would not burn the hand.

In the Middle Ages, people began to use steel - an alloy of iron and carbon - in the production of swords. These times were considered bloody; history knows many large-scale wars and battles. As a result, the emphasis in forges was not on quality, but on quantity. And in comparison with ancient times, the characteristics of the samples of edged weapons of the Middle Ages were much inferior to the ancient prototypes.

Although historians cite the example of the daggers of medieval Arabs. Some of the daggers of Arab sheikhs that have survived to this day have retained their cutting properties, despite the passing of centuries.

During the Renaissance, the experience of blacksmiths, passed down from generation to generation, together with new technologies of that time, resulted in steel cutting products that were quite high quality. But just at this time, firearms began to be used in battles, and interest in blades began to gradually fade away.

During times industrial revolution the production of bladed weapons is becoming widespread, moving from handicraft to factory production.

In factories, the manufacturability of the process reduces costs, which means that the product becomes cheaper and is already available to almost everyone. Soon, folding knives and world-famous centers for their production appeared - Russian Zlatoust, English Sheffield, German Solingen and Swedish Eksilstun.

Components

At first glance, everything is quite simple, however, the knife includes many elements. The handle and blade are the two main components. The tip, or toe of the blade is called its front point. The blade (cutting edge) is considered to be the sharpened side; it is made smooth, sometimes closer to the handle with a sawtooth shape.

There are knives where the sawtooth component is on the butt. The butt is the opposite side of the blade. Slopes are called planes that taper towards the sharpened part of the blade. The part that is attached to the handle and not sharpened is the heel of the blade.

The handle is that part of it that a person clasps with his hand when handling. A partition, or any other barrier, is built into the front of the handle, designed to protect the hand from slipping onto the sharpened part of the blade. The handle is attached to the tail of the blade.
For production use different materials.

The easiest way is to take the debris stainless steel. It doesn’t matter what this fragment was before, a pan, a pipe or furniture.

Anything will do. However, do not expect that such a blade will last long cutting qualities Most likely, you will have to sharpen it after any work.

High speed steel, which is used in the production of hacksaws and saws, gives the blade good cutting properties, for a long time while maintaining an edge. However, a significant disadvantage of this raw material is fragility and susceptibility to rust.

A good product can be made from plane blades. The material is first heated to a hot temperature, and after cooling in air, it is shaped with a hacksaw and ground with a file, or abrasive wheels. At the end of manufacturing, edged weapons are tempered in water or oil. The disadvantage is the same - they rust very quickly.

But after each work, it’s enough to wipe it well, lubricate it with a special lubricant, and it will serve you faithfully for decades, maintaining both its qualities and its appearance unchanged.

Making a cutting product from an ordinary file is simple; it does not require the use of complex tools. The file is heated, cooled in air, and the workpiece is processed with another file. Sandpaper or other abrasive is used to remove excess elements from the surface.

In order to obtain a high-quality knife at the end, proper temperature treatment and turning are necessary. Then it needs to be hardened again. You can not harden the entire knife, but only its cutting edge, but this is somewhat more complicated, of course.

If you need a small (penknife) knife, a fragment will do hacksaw blade, you just need to sharpen it and make a handle, some just wrap it with electrical tape. It’s not very aesthetically pleasing, but it’s quick and doesn’t hurt if it’s lost.

How comfortable it is to use a knife depends on the design of the handle, and therefore this element is not inferior in importance to the blade. If the product is a souvenir, the handle is decorative. Wrapping a cord around the tail section is a simple way to make a handle. This type of winding is used mainly on tactical and throwing knives.

Other manufacturers use bones and animal horns or wood to create knife handles. For this, pear, oak, walnut, ash, maple and apple are used. One more good resource is birch bark. After processing, the handle becomes grooved and pleasant to touch. And when used, it sits securely in the palm of your hand without slipping, even if the handle is stained with animal blood or fish scales.

Leather sheaths are universal and reliable, because the knife is held in them by friction, which allows you not to be afraid of losing the weapon even during active physical activity. Sheaths woven from thick cord are also widely used.

But they are more suitable for throwing ones, they are heavy, and usually blunt, except for the toe, of course. The cord cannot provide sufficient friction force, and their use for weapons with a thinner blade than tactical ones is not recommended.

Knife making process

Making a knife at home does not require special skills or expensive equipment. You should start by preparing a product template. The Internet is replete with a variety of stencils, download the one you like and print it. If you wish, you can use your imagination and draw a sketch of the sample yourself. When the design is ready, cut it out and glue it onto a piece of metal. Or simply trace along the outline with a waterproof marker.

The most difficult thing is to cut out a sample of the future knife. Perfect for comfortable work band saw for cutting metal. If there is none, then use a hacksaw, but then get ready for very labor-intensive process and be patient.

Drill holes in the tail of the workpiece; they are intended for the pins that will hold the handle structure. For beauty, some craftsmen drill several holes, each of which corresponds to the thickness of the selected pins. In order for the handle to fit firmly to the shank, you need to drill at least two holes.

After working with a file, remove unevenness and roughness from the workpiece after the drill, and also sand rough edges. On grinding machine you can bring the workpiece to perfect condition. Do not allow the future knife to overheat excessively. And do not forget to wear a respirator and safety glasses when performing work that will protect against metal dust.

Take a responsible approach to the formation of bevels. Because the cutting quality and future ease of sharpening depend on the angle at which sharpening will be done. If you want the workpiece to cut well, make the blade thin. If this product is for chopping (a machete, for example), then a thick one is more suitable. Don't go overboard with subtlety.

Otherwise, when heated, the blade will overheat, and hardening may not work. It is better to form the bevels manually. To do this correctly, first draw a line of bevels, and then, focusing on it, start grinding the metal with a grinder.

Heating steel will make it elastic. Depending on the type of steel, its hardening temperature is selected. Use a magnet to help you know when to stop heating. When it stops being attracted to the metal, it means the workpiece has heated up enough and should be cooled.

Usually cooled in oil, rarely in air or water. It all depends on the grade of steel you used for your product. But this is your knife, you can experiment if the brand is unknown.

After the steel has cooled, place the product in an oven preheated to 200 degrees and leave to warm up for one hour. The knife should cool down with it; you cannot pull it out ahead of time. Polish the metal of the product to a mirror shine, having previously cleared away multiple contaminants that will appear after quenching the steel in oil.

Drill holes in the handle halves prepared in advance that are the same size as the holes in the shank. Install them, clamp them in a vice, and drive in the pins. Head to the sander again. This time the work will happen with the handle. Set the shape that will be comfortable for use.

After the machine, go over the handle with sandpaper to remove burrs and small irregularities.

The method of making a knife is given for theoretical reference. Article of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation No. 223, part 3 prohibits the creation and use of homemade products falling under the term “edged weapons”. This can result in a penalty of up to two years in prison. It is advisable to read this article, because not all knives are punishable.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make a knife with your own hands at home. You will have a good time and try yourself in the role of a master in the production of edged weapons or just a household item.

Especially if you have the opportunity to use it when creating a product good equipment. Perhaps you will discover a talent for this art.

But do not forget about criminal liability and use only within the framework of Russian legislation. A little patience, attentiveness and pedantry will help in the production of a high-quality knife that will last for many years.

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