Grafting of grapes. Grafting grapes onto an old bush in the spring with your own hands Spring grafting of grapes into a bush standard
Grape grafting is carried out for the following purposes:
replacing one variety with another, more desirable or better in terms of a number of characteristics: taste, yield, berry size, resistance to frost, pests and diseases;
to protect grapes from phylloxera aphids that feed on plant sap. It damages all parts of the plant, causing the vine to wither and die. This aphid reproduces very quickly and is resistant to many chemicals. The most effective way to resist phylloxera is to graft bushes with special phylloxera-resistant rootstocks, which, despite being infected, still develop and bear fruit;
rehabilitation of a vineyard after mechanical damage. Strong winds, frosts, and damage to bushes by pests (including mice, hares) can destroy all the bushes, however, even with severely damaged plants, you can graft with other shoots, and this is a fairly high chance of restoring the entire vineyard, rather than uprooting and replanting it;
complete reconstruction of the vineyard with the aim of rejuvenating it.
Using grafting to obtain a new variety speeds up the process of obtaining a harvest from it, compared to planting new seedlings, by several years.
Grafting is a surgical operation during which a cutting of another (scion) is attached to the shoot of one plant (rootstock), and then they are fused into a single whole. After this, part of the plant grows with its old qualities, and part with new ones, without mixing or oppressing each other. Moreover, not one, but several other varieties can be grafted onto one bush; such vines are called bouquet bushes. Vaccination is considered a rather complicated process; beginners are afraid to do it, but it is very interesting and effective.
The types of vaccinations are presented in table. 2.
Table 2
Types of grape grafting
Timing of grape grafting
Summer and autumn grafting can be done at any time, and spring grafting can be done when the buds on the rootstock have swelled and active sap flow has ended.
The best weather for this event is considered to be calm and warm, but not sunny.
Reasons for unsuccessful vaccinations
Scion cuttings may take root poorly or be completely rejected if:
lack of moisture in the soil;
poor soil;
strong shading;
low-quality scion cuttings;
weak harness;
discrepancy between the combial layers of the rootstock and scion;
too raised cut edges when using a poor tool.
Types of vaccinations
Grafting into cleft
Full cleft grafting
1. Excavate the rootstock to a depth of 2025 cm, cut the trunk below the soil surface level, clear bark and dirt 5 cm below the cut.
2.Tie a rope around the trunk 5cm below the cut.
3. Using a splitter, make a 3cm deep split in the trunk (Fig. 39) and leave it in this position (a tied rope will be useful in this case to prevent the trunk from splitting deeper than necessary).
Figure 39.Rootstock with cleft
4. The scion in this grafting method is usually much thinner than the rootstock. Sharpen the scion by cutting off one of its ends with a wedge about twice the diameter of the branch itself. In this case, the cut on one side should be under high angle, than with the other, i.e. the tip should not be the core, but the wood of the twig (Fig. 40).
5.Insert the cutting into the split, remove the splitter from the trunk. Wrap the filled split. If the trunk of the rootstock is very thick or several scions are inserted into the cleft, then the empty space of the cleft should be filled with fresh wood from the rootstock (the so-called peripheral grafting) (Fig. 41).
Figure 40.Handle with wedge-shaped ending
Figure 41.Grafting with peripheral split
6. Treat the grafting site with garden varnish.
7.Fill the hole with the plant with wet sawdust, top with soil (Fig. 42).
Figure 42.Split grafting with two scions
8. To ensure that nutrients are directed primarily to the scion, and not to the periphery of the plant, every 1.52 weeks after grafting, the lateral shoots from the rootstock and the roots on the scion should be removed.
8.When a sprout emerges from the surface of the earth, cover it from direct sun rays a glass jar, a small homemade tent made from a plastic bag. Open this protective screen possible on a not very sunny day or at night.
Bushes grafted in the spring, when covered in preparation for wintering, should not be bent to the ground, so as not to accidentally break the still weak point of the graft.
Half-split grafting
1. If you plan to graft one cutting and the thickness of the rootstock is small (less than 5 cm), then this grafting method is suitable when the trunk of the rootstock is not split in half, but only partially. The trunk is split from the side to a depth of about 2.5 cm, and the split should not be end-to-end, but end, for example, in the center of the trunk. Half-split grafting can also be used on fairly thick rootstocks by inserting several cuttings.
2. The scion is prepared in the same way as in the previous case, only the wedge needs to be made on one side with a slight angle so that it better fits the split of the rootstock.
3.Insert the scion into the split (Fig. 43).
4.Tie the graft with a rope, cotton wool soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and wrap it in photoprotective film. In this case, it is not necessary to cover the grafting with garden varnish.
Figure 43.Half-split grafting
1. On the trunk of the rootstock, in the place where the side branch emerges, make a cut to the center of the main trunk.
2. Cut one of the ends of the scion with a double-sided wedge, with sides of different depths.
3. Bend the side branch of the rootstock slightly, insert the scion into the cut, then release the branch (Fig. 44).
4.Tie the joint with a rope and coat it with garden varnish.
5.When the scion takes root, cut off the side branch holding it.
Figure 44.Half-split grafting into the side of hemp
Grafting into a skeletal root
It is chosen when the underground trunk is too short to split. In this case, one of the skeletal roots of the trunk is taken as a rootstock, separated from it, and fixed by tying it to a small peg.
Different grafting technologies can be chosen (split, half-split, etc.) (Fig. 45).
Figure 45.Grafting into a skeletal root into a cleft
Grafting grapes with a wedge (butt)
1. With this grafting method, the scion cutting wedge should be made tetrahedral, i.e. sharp (Fig. 46).
Figure 46.Tetrahedral scion wedge
2. On the rootstock, make angular cuts on the side of the trunk, matching in size to the size of the scion wedges (Fig. 47).
3.Attach a wedge of scion to the cutout on the rootstock, tie it with a rope and treat it with garden varnish (Fig. 48).
Figure 47.Corner cuts in the rootstock
Figure 48.Wedge grafting
End-to-end grafting of grapes
1. Unearth the rootstock to a depth of about 10cm and clear it of soil.
2. At a depth of 5 cm, cut off the trunk (Fig. 49).
Figure 49.Cutting the trunk to obtain a scion
3. The scion and rootstock must be straight and vertical, as well as the same diameter. Insert a thin wooden pin made of hardwood strictly vertically into the core of the rootstock, and place the scion on top of it (Fig. 50).
Figure 50.Connecting the scion to the rootstock with a wooden pin
4.Wrap the joint with cotton wool moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then with paper.
5. Fill the hole with the graft with wet sawdust, and cover the top with a plastic bag (Fig. 51).
Figure 51.Back-to-back vaccination
Grafting by copulation
1.Make an oblique cut on the rootstock so that its length is 2 times the diameter of the trunk.
2.Make a similar cut on the scion and be sure to check the accuracy of the match with the application to the rootstock. With this grafting method, the thickness of the scion and rootstock trunks should be the same.
3. Connect the cuts of the scion and rootstock, tie the junction with a rope, and treat with garden varnish (Fig. 52).
Figure 52.Grafting by simple copulation
If everything is done correctly and smoothly, then after some time a sap (liquid released from damaged wood vessels) will appear on the top of the graft.
4. Cover the grafted cuttings with loose soil.
After diagonally cutting the cuttings in the core of the scion and rootstock trunks, make small splits so that when connecting the trunks, one fits into the other (Fig. 53).
Figure 53.Grafting with improved copulation
The adhesion will be stronger than with conventional copulation. Further actions are the same as for regular copulation.
If you are grafting several plants at the same time, then before working with each subsequent bush, rinse the cutting tool in some disinfectant solution. Then, if pathogenic microorganisms get on the blade and one bush dies, the rest will remain intact.Grafting grapes into a side cut
This method is used on plants that have already bloomed leaves, and is usually carried out in the second half of May and the first half of June.
1. Clean the rootstock trunk from dirt.
2. Make a diagonal cut on the trunk of the rootstock, going inside one third of its thickness.
3. Cut the scion cutting with a one-sided wedge, the cut area of which should coincide with the depth of the cut on the rootstock, because the cutting will adjoin one side to the trunk of the rootstock, and the other to its moved away part (Fig. 54).
4.Insert the scion into the cut on the rootstock, tie it with a rope and treat it with garden varnish.
5. Cut the upper part of the rootstock to a spike 20 cm above the grafting site, which is then cut out in early autumn.
Figure 54.Prepared scion and rootstock and their connection
Grafting of grapes by approach (ablactation)
The peculiarity of this grafting method is that the rootstock and scion remain practically intact; nothing needs to be completely cut off or sawed off, because the trunks of the scion and rootstock remain growing in their places, they are only connected to each other by their sides in one place. It is done in late May early June.
1. The technique of grafting is similar to copulation. In the middle of the height of the stems of the scion and rootstock, make one diagonal cut each, and then make internal tongue cuts directed in different directions so that the scion and rootstock are aligned more closely (Fig. 55).
Figure 55.Preparation of scion and rootstock stems
2. Combine the scion and rootstock so that the tongue of one goes behind the tongue of the other (Fig. 56), tie with a rope or ribbon, and treat with garden varnish.
3.When the scion and rootstock have finally grown together, the scion can be cut below the grafting site, and the rootstock above. This way you will get one stem.
Figure 56.Vaccination by rapprochement
Grafting grapes by bark
Grafting for the bark is carried out only during sap flow, in late April early May.
1. It is made without a vertical cut in the rootstock bark, so a bark separator is used here. Cut off the crown of the future rootstock bush. Using a bark separator, remove the bark from the trunk of the rootstock in several places if you plan to plant several cuttings, and in one place if there is only one cutting.
Figure 57.Improved grafting without bark cutting
2.Tie the trunk near the cut and the peeled bark with a cloth, but not very tightly.
3.Cut the scion cutting from one end with an arched wedge so that it is sharp enough.
4.Insert the scion behind the bark without removing the fabric. As a result, the fabric will have to stretch to such an extent that it will reliably hold the graft behind the bark (Fig. 57).
5. Treat the grafting site with garden varnish.
Figure 58.Improved grafting with bark cut
2.Make a vertical cut in the bark of the rootstock, push the bark to one side, exposing the cambial layer in the shape of a triangle.
3. Cut the scion cutting from one end with an arched wedge so that it is sharp enough, remove the bark from the side opposite to the cut.
4.Insert the scion behind the bark with a cut towards the center of the trunk (Fig. 58), secure with a rope.
Vaccination with a spike
This method grafting is used when the rootstock begins to leaf out in the spring.
2.Remove a part of the bark 15cm high, 4cm wide, and then cut the bark from the end of the removal point vertically downwards.
3. Cut the scion cutting with an oblique one-sided wedge 4 cm deep.
4.Insert the scion into the vertical cut of the rootstock between the lateral layers of bark (Fig. 59), secure with a rope.
5. Coat the junction and the top of the rootstock with garden varnish.
Figure 59.Vaccination with a spike
Grafting with a saddle behind the bark
1. Cut off the crown of the bush-to-be rootstock, leaving a trunk about 25 cm high above the soil surface.
2.On the rootstock, cut off the narrow long part of the bark in a vertical direction.
3. Cut the cutting with a one-sided wedge so that the thickness of the wedge is small, and the place where it begins is quite sharp, and not smooth, i.e. a bit like fountain pen.
4.Apply the scion to the bare cambium of the rootstock, placing it at the beginning of the wedge (Fig. 60), secure with a rope.
5. Coat the junction and the top of the rootstock with garden varnish.
Figure 60.Grafting with a saddle behind the bark
Vaccination according to Tittel
This grafting method is suitable for rootstocks in which the bark has lost elasticity and bends poorly. It is considered one of the most effective, because... The fusion of the scion and rootstock occurs more tightly and quickly than in a number of other cases. The Tittel vaccination is done in late spring.
1. Cut off the crown of the bush-future rootstock.
2. Cut the scion cutting with a one-sided even wedge.
3.Make two parallel vertical cuts on the rootstock, the distance between which is approximately equal to the diameter of the scion. Bend the resulting piece of bark slightly downwards.
4.Insert the graft into the cut between the cambium and bark with a cut wedge towards the center of the trunk. Shorten the separated section of the rootstock bark to the level of the lower bud of the scion.
5. Secure the connection with a rope and treat with garden varnish (Fig. 61).
Figure 61.Grafting for bark according to Tittel
Winter grafting of grapes
Grapes are among those plants that tolerate winter grafting, usually carried out in January–March.
1. In the fall, after the leaves have fallen, dig up the wildflowers. Trim them so that the height of the trunk is approximately 10 cm from the roots, treat the above-ground part of the plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Place them in sawdust or sand and store at a temperature of about 0C.
2. In winter, remove the rootstock from a cool room a day before the planned grafting, inspect it, clean it of sand or sawdust, remove rotten roots, cut the normal ones to a length of 15 cm, and warm them at a temperature of about 20C. It is better to bring wild animals into a room at room temperature only for the duration of vaccination, so that they remain dormant.
3. Immediately before grafting, rinse the game birds, soak them for 24 hours in water at a temperature of about 15C, and then remove them and wipe them carefully. So, the cuttings will be moist, which is important for the fusion of the tissues being connected.
4.Graft the desired scion to the wild bird using any in a known way(most often they use improved copulation). To prevent the scion from starting to produce its own roots when planting, the grafting should be done 5 cm above the root collar of the rootstock.
5. In order for the grafting site to grow together faster and not dry out, stratification should be carried out, which lasts 23 weeks. (More details about stratification will be discussed below.)
6. After stratification is completed, transfer the box with grafted cuttings back to a cool room and store until spring at a temperature of about 0C.
7. In the spring, remove the grafted cuttings from the box, clean them of sawdust and place them on a fresh air for a few days. If some of the roots are rotten, trim off the dead parts. Then plant the cuttings in the ground.
Bridge grafting of grapes
This grafting method is usually used to heal mechanical damage to the bark that can occur after equipment is used in the vineyard, due to frostbite, or due to the efforts of field mice. If the bark is damaged only on one side of the trunk and no more than a third of the diameter, then it is enough to disinfect the wound, but if it is circular, then the plant may die, because movement useful substances along the trunk is disrupted and the roots weaken. Some gardeners do not attach much importance to ring damage, especially when the wounded bush blooms, bears fruit and does not seem to show signs of decline. However, this is a misconception and he will die next spring. Only bridge grafting, which should be carried out before the buds swell, can save you from such a problem. To accurately determine the condition of the plant, during sap flow, you can make a small incision on the trunk in the damaged area and in the healthy area adjacent to it. If the bark does not separate, it means the passage nutrients is broken and requires vaccination, and if it goes away the plant will be able to cope with the problem on its own.
Cover the wound with a mixture of mullein and clay and tie it with cloth. Before vaccination, wash healthy areas around the wound.
1st method of grafting with a bridge (bark)
It involves implanting the bark of another tree onto the damaged area of the patient (Fig. 62).
2.Cut small recesses triangular shape above and below the borders of the wound to secure a piece of bark-implant in them.
3. Carefully remove the bark from a branch of a healthy tree (for example, from a branch remaining after scheduled pruning), cut out a piece in the shape of an ellipse with pointed ends.
4.Insert the bark with its sharp ends into the triangular recesses.
Figure 62.Grafting with bark bridge
2nd method of grafting with a bridge (vertically with carnations)
1.Make even horizontal transverse cuts to the bark above and below the wound to align its edges.
2.Make two small longitudinal cuts above and below the borders of the wound to secure future scions in them.
3. Prepare thin scion cuttings, which should be 10 cm longer than the height of the wound. The number of scions depends on the size of the wound and the age of the rootstock. For grape trunks, 34 bridges are usually taken. Cut the cuttings from both ends with a one-sided cut.
4.Insert bridges into the longitudinal cuts of the rootstock bark, nail them with small nails for additional fixation (Fig. 63).
Figure 63.Grafting with a bridge vertically with carnations
3rd method of grafting with a bridge (diagonally) 1. Make even horizontal cross-sections of the bark above and below the wound to align its edges.
2.Cut small acute-angled triangular depressions above and below the borders of the wound, but not at the same level, but shifted.
3. Prepare thin scion cuttings, which should be 10 cm longer than the height of the wound. Cut the cuttings from both ends with a one-sided cut.
4.Insert bridges into the cuts in the rootstock bark so that they stand diagonally relative to the trunk of the rootstock (Fig. 64).
Figure 64.Diagonal bridge grafting
After attaching the scions using all of the above grafting methods, tie the junction with a rope and treat with garden varnish.
4th method of grafting with a bridge (root shoots) If the damaged plant has young growth from the roots or below the wound, then it can be used as a scion. Cut top part such a shoot with a one-sided wedge and attach it to the rootstock using any of the above methods (Fig. 65).Figure 65.Bridge grafting with root shoots
Bridge grafting requires a lot of nutrients for tissue splicing and restoration, and since this priority direction, then the rest will have to be sacrificed. In particular, you will need to pick off the flowers when buds begin to form.
Grafting grapes by drilling
1. Cut off the crown of a bush or a separate branch of the future rootstock. The place for drilling should be on the thicker side of the vine, because It is on this side that the cambium functions most powerfully, which means that fusion will occur faster.
2. Peel the graft-scion from one side 2 cm to the wood itself, and then in a smooth slide to the cambium and after 0.5 cm to the bark.
3. Stepping back 5 cm from the cut of the trunk or branch, remove a small layer of bark and use a wood drill to make a hole the size of which matches the diameter of the scion.
4.Insert the scion into the resulting hole, cover the outside of the wound with garden varnish (Fig. 66).
Figure 66.Grafting by drilling
Green grafting of grapes
It is chosen when it is necessary to vaccinate new variety or grow future cuttings.
Green grafting is most often done:
into the cleft;
simple copulation;
budding (scutellum with bud).
This type vaccinations are done with a green cutting on a green shoot, so split grafting and copulation are carried out in the second half of May, the first half of June, and budding can be done from the second half of June to the first half of August.
The day before grafting onto the rootstock, remove the main number of shoots, leaving a few of the most powerful and easily accessible for manipulation. Remove from them all unnecessary elements that take away energy and nutrients (leaves, inflorescences, tendrils, etc.), and also pinch the tops or cut them to the desired length. Water the plant.
When a sap appears on the cut, you can vaccinate. Immediately before grafting, cut the scion shoots into small sticks, remove them from the leaves, and place them in water.
Green scion and rootstock are of the same diameter.
Green graft into cleft
1.Split the rootstock in the center of the stem.
2. Cut the graft from one end with a double-sided wedge, the length coinciding with the depth of the split.
3.Insert the scion into the split of the rootstock so that their skins coincide.
4.Tie the grafting site with polyethylene (Fig. 67).
Figure 67.Grafting into the cleft of a green shoot
1.Make a diagonal cut above the node of the rootstock shoot and the same cut on the scion branch.
2. Connect the scion and rootstock together and tie them with polyethylene (Fig. 68).
Figure 68.Green grafting by simple copulation
After 11.5 weeks, the graft, given by splitting or copulation, begins to show signs of active work, grow, and it will be possible to remove the polyethylene winding from it. New sprouts can make the branch heavy, so it should be tied up so that the graft, which has not yet fully grown together, does not break.
Grafting of grapes by budding
Budding is a grafting with a bud, and therefore it is considered the most non-traumatic for the plant, and the active life of grapes is summer period will increase the intensity and speed of graft fusion. Although some winegrowers don’t really like to tinker with such a small thing as buds. There is no need to trim the entire bush; it is enough to remove only the weakest branches and then water it.
Budding can be done on stems at least 6 mm thick, 45 grafts every half meter of the vine. The maximum number of such grafts is 60 pieces per vine.
Scions are prepared immediately before vaccination or at most a few hours before it. To do this, select shoots with the most developed buds. It is believed that the best of them are located in the area of the 412th node from the beginning of the stem.
1. Make an angled cut of 45 degrees on the rootstock at the site of future grafting, 50 cm away from the beginning of stem growth.
2. From the scion, cut out a small piece with a bud in the center of the same size as the recess in the rootstock.
3. Place the piece with the bud into the recess of the rootstock, tie the joint with polyethylene, without touching the bud, because it must be free for further blossoming and development (Fig. 69). Insert the next buds in the same way, every 50cm.
Figure 69.Budding
4. In the fall, when the budded branches have healed, remove all unbudded stems, so in the spring the bush variety will be completely replaced.
Budding can be done both in internodes and by replacing a bud. Budding also happens with or without awakening of the kidney.
They awaken it if they want it to bloom this same summer, and it is better to do this in June, when autumn and cold weather are still far away. To do this, you need to cut the vine to a node above the graft, and then the main amount of nutrients that were previously distributed throughout the large vine will fall on the bud.
It is better to do without awakening if you did budding in August, so that the young, immature vine that emerges from the bud does not die in the winter. In order not to awaken the bud, it is enough not to touch the grafted vine. In order for a full-fledged shoot of a different variety to grow from a bud grafted in late summer in the spring, before the buds bloom, cut the rootstock 3 cm from the grafting site.
Combined grape grafting
When it is carried out, the scion is a woody cutting, and the rootstock is green stem. It is usually held in the second half of May and the first half of June. A bush or a separate branch has been prepared for grafting since the fall. The entire bush is cut off, and in the spring shoots will grow from it, which will become the scion for the combined grafting. And if you plan to graft only one branch, then it will also need to be cut off, leaving a short section.
Grafting into a cleft with a lignified cutting into a green shoot
1. With this grafting method, the diameter of the stems of the rootstock and scion should be the same.
2. Cut the scion with a double-sided wedge 2 cm below the eye to a length of 2 stem diameters.
3. On the rootstock, make a split in the core of the stem of such length that it is the same depth as the length of the scion wedge and reaches the nearest lower bud.
4.Tie the connection with polyethylene, put it on top plastic bag with a small cut for the plant to breathe.
Grafting into a side section of a node with a lignified cutting onto a green shoot
This method of vaccination is performed in the second half of May and the first half of June. The maximum permissible number of such simultaneous vaccinations per bush is 4 pieces.
It is carried out according to the same principle as with lignified shoots, but you should remember that in this case the eye of the scion should not be touched in growth, otherwise the graft will not take root.
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One of the most effective ways healing, rejuvenation and improvement of the properties of grapes is its grafting. There are many methods of grafting, but as for timing, autumn grafting is most common in both amateur and professional viticulture. We will tell you how grapes are grafted in the fall, what the timing of grape grafting is at this time of year, and we will also give a detailed description of this procedure.
Advantages of autumn grape grafting
Why graft grapes better in autumn? Firstly, because those grafted in the autumn begin to bear fruit earlier and produce more fruits. Secondly, as a result of autumn grafting, grapes acquire resistance to both drought and high humidity. Autumn grafting will improve the health of the plant and help heal damage caused by phylloxera.
Time and methods of autumn vaccination
Autumn grafting is carried out when the grapes enter the dormant period, that is, from the beginning of October. The air temperature at this time should not be lower than 15 ºC, and the soil temperature should not be lower than 10 ºC.
Autumn grafting is usually carried out in the trunk of an old bush, the fruiting of which has begun to fade.
Preparation of grape scions
Cut the scion cuttings with a sharp sterile instrument. The donor can be a healthy bush, the mature vine of which has dry, hard, yellow-brown bark and has bear fruit at least once. The length of the chibouks with two or three eyes should be 55-60 cm, the diameter should be 10-12 cm, and the cut should be smooth and even. The tops of shoots, as well as stems that are too thin or crooked, are not suitable for grafting. In order not to confuse the upper cut with the lower one during grafting, make the lower cut on the cutting oblique and the upper cut straight. Clean the cut cuttings from the mustaches and stepsons, but try not to damage the buds.
In order for the cuttings to survive the winter well after grafting, they need to be covered with a thin layer of paraffin, which will retain moisture in the chibouk tissues. Before waxing, the chibuki are immersed for a day in a solution of the growth stimulator Heteroauxin, and then dried: the paraffin will not stick to the wet bark.
Place a piece of paraffin in a saucepan of water and bring the water to a boil: the melted paraffin will float on the surface. Each cutting must be quickly placed in a pan with paraffin, and then in a container with cold water to allow the paraffin to cool.
Before grafting, you need to cut off the lower part of the cutting, which will grow together with the rootstock. Cut the cutting with a sterile knife on both sides, wedge-shaped, 1 cm away from the lower bud. The length of the side of the wedge should be about 2 cm. The cutting is immediately placed cut side into water and kept in it until grafting. Do not touch the cut area with your hands under any circumstances! Before grafting, the cuttings should be kept for 7-10 seconds in a solution of 10 drops of Humate in 1 liter of water.
Preparing the rootstock for grafting
When preparing an old bush for grafting, you need to cut off its above-ground part at a height of 8-12 cm from the ground and release the underground trunk of the rootstock from under the ground. Clean the rootstock (the root of the bush to which you will graft the shank) from bark, dust, dirt and wipe it with a solution of copper sulfate. The cut of the rootstock should be even, smooth and perpendicular to the growth of the trunk. After treatment with copper sulfate, you should not touch the cut with your hands - only with sterile instruments.
Grafting a cutting to a trunk
To carry out the vaccination procedure you will need:
- pruner;
- axe;
- screwdriver;
- bandage (stripes cut from cotton fabric);
- leg-split;
- copper sulfate solution.
The knife, pruning shears and ax must be well sharpened and disinfected with alcohol. You should also wipe the screwdriver with alcohol.
In the middle of the cut of the rootstock, using an axe, knife or pruning shears, make a split of such depth that the wedge-shaped cut of the scion shank completely fits into it. A screwdriver is inserted into the split so that the split halves do not come together. The chubuk is inserted into the split so that the lower bud remains above the cut, after which the screwdriver can be removed. The cambial layers of the rootstock and scion must match. If the rootstock is thick, you can insert two cuttings into it. All cracks formed in the rootstock must be filled with toilet paper soaked in water, after which the rootstock and scion are tied together with a bandage or strips of fabric. The “bandaged” grafting site is secured with twine.
Maybe instead toilet paper fill all the cracks in the rootstock with liquid clay and coat the cut surface with it, then cover the grafting site with a cloth. As soon as the clay dries, the soil around the bush is loosened and watered, then soil is added to the bush so that the edges of the scion cuttings remain above the surface. A hut made of non-woven covering material or an inverted five-liter plastic bottle with a cut off neck is installed over the grafting site.
In spring, the shelter is not removed immediately: in warm weather the bottle is raised for a while, and then again placed above the grafting site. When the grapes get used to the conditions environment, the coating is finally removed.
Read also
Grafting grapes is an agrotechnical measure that allows you to achieve several goals at once. To keep your grape plantation healthy and productive, learn how to graft grape bushes. Let's find out what vaccination methods are available, how to perform them, and why are they needed at all?
Features of grape grafting
To graft grapes, you will need:
- Scion. This is a bud or cutting grafted onto a rootstock. The varietal qualities of the berries and the yield depend on the scion.
- Rootstock. This is the base on which the graft is grafted. It is the rootstock that determines how frost-resistant and hardy the grape bush will be. It also affects some characteristics of the fruit and the plant's immunity. The purpose of the rootstock is to provide nutrition and growth.
The main thing that a gardener must learn when starting grafting is that not all scions take root on rootstocks. There are varieties that are incompatible. But, as a rule, they learn about incompatibility (affinity) experimentally.
There are different types of vaccinations:
- Green. These include procedures carried out from spring to autumn. From the awakening of leaves to their falling. Types of green grafts:
- in standard;
- to the root;
- green to green;
- black to black;
- black to green.
- Tabletop. They are carried out in the winter, bringing the cuttings artificially out of dormancy. This is done in order to plant the already established graft into the ground in the spring.
Pros and cons of the procedure
By grafting grape bushes, gardeners receive several benefits at the same time:
- Grapes grafted onto a rootstock have resistance to phylloxera - the most dangerous pest grapes, strong immunity is developed.
- The ability to quickly grow a maximum of grape varieties and hybrids on a limited area. There is no need to dig up old bushes and plant young ones - you can get a harvest faster.
- In weakly fruiting bushes, the yield increases after grafting.
- If a bush has completely lost its shoots - due to frost, damping off, or damage by rodents - it can be restored in several seasons.
- Inaccessible and valuable varieties are quickly propagated by grafting.
- The use of frost-resistant rootstocks increases the variety's resistance to frost.
- The tolerance of demanding varieties to unfavorable conditions increases. Grafted onto a stable and hardy rootstock, capricious varieties can grow safely on acidic, calcareous soils, as well as in areas with high level groundwater.
- By grafting varietal cuttings onto the rootstock of an early and early ripening variety, fruit ripening is accelerated. This is especially beneficial for areas with short summers.
- It is allowed to graft several varieties onto one root - family bushes are created. This is both economical and decorative.
- By combining the variants of rootstocks and scions, they influence the characteristics of the fruit - size and taste.
The root system is the most valuable thing in old grape bushes. It is not advisable to uproot them - they can serve as the basis for growing other varieties.
Preparation and storage of scion
To obtain a high-quality scion, cuttings (chubuks) are prepared in the fall. Harvesting occurs in October-November, before the onset of frost. For grafting to be successful, the cut of the cutting must be perfectly even. Before performing the procedure, it is advisable to practice cutting off unnecessary branches.
Do not use the upper part of the shoots - about 30 cm - as cuttings; also avoid fattening, damaged, immature, crooked and thin shoots.
Cutting parameters:
- The shoot diameter is at least 8 mm.
- The minimum number of eyes is 2-3 pieces.
- Average length – 9-12 cm.
- The mustache, the shoot with which the grapes cling to the support, should fall off at the lower node. A node is the location of leaves, inflorescences, buds and tendrils. A fallen mustache indicates the maturity of the cutting and increases the chances of its survival. The node selected is developed and lignified.
- If you plan to graft several scions onto one root at the same time, they must have the same cross-section.
To harvest the scion, use only healthy bushes that have been bearing fruit for at least 3 years.
Harvested cuttings must be properly prepared for storage:
- Disinfect by immersing 3% copper sulfate for 30 seconds.
- After drying, the cuttings are wrapped in polyethylene or wet cotton cloth and stored for storage. The storage location can be the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or the cellar. In the latter they can be stored in boxes with sand or sawdust. The optimal storage temperature is from -2 to +2°C.
Rootstock selection and preparation
It is better not to take very old bushes as a rootstock. Best option– plants aged from 3 to 5 years. Scions take root better on such bushes.
Characteristics of a good rootstock:
- high frost resistance;
- vigorous bushes;
- disease resistance;
- well developed underground trunk.
The rootstock is also prepared for grafting - from spring to autumn. A few days before the procedure, the bush is fed. Use foliar fertilizers. Preference is given to drugs containing potassium and phosphorus. Many gardeners feed the vine with honey - it is spread on the branches a few days before cutting.
A week before vaccination you also need to:
- Cut off the young shoots, tendrils and leaves growing from the bottom to the site of future grafting on the rootstock.
- Water the bush abundantly, which will serve as a rootstock.
Grafting methods
There are several methods of vaccination. There is nothing complicated in this procedure. The main thing is to study the execution technique and follow it exactly. All of the methods discussed below provide high survival rates.
In standard
The good thing about this method is that two can be grafted onto one standard at the same time. different varieties. Each cutting should have three buds, no less. Vaccination procedure:
- Dig the trunk to a depth of 30 cm. The width of the hole is 50 cm. Having determined the grafting site, make a cut in it - perpendicular to the trunk.
- Clean the cut with a knife, removing rough edges.
- Use a rag to remove old bark, dirt and sawdust.
- Split the standard into largest diameter cut. The depth of the split is 2-3 cm. Insert a wedge, such as a screwdriver, into the split.
- Prepare the scions - make cone-shaped cuts 2.5 cm long on the cuttings. Make the cuts 5-7 cm below the lowest eye.
- Place the cuttings in water. Then dip the cuttings in a growth stimulator (gumiam or another) for 7 seconds.
- Insert the cuttings into the stem so that their outer parts match. The bottom peephole should look outward.
- Remove the wedge and seal the gap between the scion and rootstock with paper. Place plastic film on top and tie the stem.
- Coat the trunk with clay without touching the scions. This will save the standard and grafting from the cold in winter.
- Sprinkle the grafting site with soil and cover with a cut plastic bottle.
See how to graft grapes into a bush:
Into the cleft
The method is usually used for “black to black” grafting in March-April. The scion is taken from a thick branch with dark bark. It is cut off at a distance of 5 cm from the node. Operating procedure:
- A couple of days before grafting, remove the cuttings from the storage location. Sharpen the lower end to a height of 3-4 cm. Soak in a stimulating solution.
- Dig up the bush trunk and clean it of bark.
- Make a split in the center of the trunk - a longitudinal cut 3-4 cm deep. Cutting tool must be sharpened.
- Insert two cuttings into the split from different sides. Secure the graft with a rope and seal it clay mortar.
- Treat the grafting site with garden varnish. Sprinkle sawdust on top, then soil.
Half-split
This method works similarly to the previous one. The difference is in the number of grafted cuttings. Grafting into a split is carried out following the scheme “2 scions for one rootstock”, and for a half-split – “for one rootstock - one scion”. Vaccination time is March-April.
Drilling
Grafting by drilling is even simpler than grafting into clefts. The method is characterized by high survival rate of scions. Vaccination procedure:
- Remove the cuttings from the cellar. Wrap them with damp cloth. Let them sit at room temperature.
- Remove 0.5 cm of bark from the ends of the cuttings.
- Find a drill the same diameter as the scion. Disinfect it in potassium permanganate.
- Drill a hole 4-5 cm deep in the center of the trunk.
- Insert the scion into the hole. Cover the graft with clay mortar.
To increase the likelihood of survival, drill several cuttings onto one trunk at once.
For direct copulation, cuttings of the same diameter are selected. They are soaked for 2 days in water. How to proceed:
- Make an oblique cut on the rootstock. The length of the cut should be twice the diameter of the trunk.
- Make a cut on the scion of such size that it exactly matches the cut on the rootstock.
- Connect the scion and rootstock with sections. Tie the graft with garden varnish.
- Sprinkle the graft with loose soil. If the grafting is done correctly, after a while a sap will appear at the top.
Sap is a liquid that is released from damaged wood.
Butt budding
This best way vaccinations in spring time. Provides a high survival rate. The method is especially suitable for areas with high humidity.
The procedure for grafting into the butt:
- Remove the shoots and foliage from the vine to the rootstock.
- Make the cutting wedge pointed and tetrahedral.
- On the rootstock on the sides of the trunk, make corner cuts that match the size of the scion wedges.
- Attach a wedge of cuttings to the cut on the rootstock, tie with twine and treat with garden varnish.
Vaccination is carried out from the end of May to the beginning of July. Woody cuttings are grafted in spring, and green cuttings are grafted in summer.
Back to back
This is an underground grafting that is very easy to do in the spring:
- Dig the rootstock 10 cm deep. Clear the rootstock of soil.
- Cut the trunk at a depth of 5 cm. Select the drive and rootstock so that they are perfectly even and of the same diameter.
- Insert a thin wooden dowel into the middle of the rootstock, perpendicular to the ground. Place a scion on top of it - in this way the scion and rootstock will be held together.
- Wrap the grafting site with cotton wool moistened with potassium permanganate and then with paper.
- Fill the hole with wet sawdust, cover the top plastic film or by package.
On an old bush
Grafting onto an old bush allows you to get a harvest earlier than if a young seedling were planted. The grafted bush begins to bear fruit after 1-2 years. It is advisable to harvest cuttings in the fall. Any variety can be grafted in this way.
The procedure for grafting onto an old bush:
- Dig a hole near the rootstock bush. The depth of the pit is 20 cm. Completely remove the above-ground part. You can graft from 1 to 4 scions onto the trunk remaining after pruning the bush.
- Sharpen the cuttings into a wedge shape. Side – 2 cm, sharpening angle – 20-30 degrees.
- Split the stem with a knife 3 cm deep. Insert cuttings around the edges. To plant 4 cuttings, the diameter of the trunk must be 7 cm or more. Make 2 splits for this number of cuttings. Insert 2 scions into each.
- Tighten the grafting site. Fill the hole near the trunk with soil and water it generously.
To the root
Grafting into a skeletal root is chosen if the underground trunk is very short and it is not possible to make a high-quality split. The rootstock is the skeletal root of the trunk. It is separated from the trunk and fixed by tying it to a small support. You can graft a cutting into the root using any of the methods described above - in a split, half-split, and others.
Re-vaccination
Inexperienced gardeners, dissatisfied with the taste of the grapes, dig up the bush and plant a new seedling in its place. But this path is impractical. It is easier to re-graft a bush if it is strong and healthy. Then the harvest will be obtained in the 3rd year after grafting.
Re-vaccination is done early spring or at the end of autumn, completely removing the above-ground part of the bush. The cuttings are grafted into a cleft or “black to green”.
Below watch a video about regrafting grapes:
Conditions for good survival
The main conditions for successful survival:
- Tight contact of the sections of the rootstock and scion.
- The cambial layers located between the wood and the bark must match exactly.
- Preserving the moisture content of harvested cuttings. Preventing them from freezing and spoilage from waterlogging.
Vaccination at different times of the year
The time of year affects not only the survival rate of the scion, but also the choice of grafting method. Grapes can be grafted in any season, even in winter. In this case, different methods are used.
Spring
Grape growers prefer to graft grapes in the spring. The vaccination period is April-early May. They focus not so much on numbers, but on the temperature and condition of the bushes. Vaccinations begin after the start of sap flow - at this time the highest survival rate.
Features of vaccination in spring:
- it is protected from the sun and frost if the scion begins to grow earlier than the rootstock;
- To activate sap flow, the bushes are watered abundantly several days before grafting.
In the spring, a procedure called “black to black” is carried out. Both parts - the scion and the rootstock - are in the initial stage of bud break.
The grafting is carried out with cuttings prepared in the fall. Using this method, individual shoots of the bush and grown rootstocks are grafted.
How grapes are grafted in spring is described and shown in the following video:
Summer
In summer, grapes are grafted in June or July. The advantage of summer grafting is the possibility of cutting cuttings right before the procedure. You can graft using any of the methods – “green to green” or “black to green”.
Conditions for vaccination:
- cloudy weather;
- temperature up to +25°C;
- lack of precipitation;
- before 10 am and after 6 pm.
Green to green grafting is used in the summer. It does not require the preparation of material in advance. Cuttings are immediately grafted onto the rootstock. Most often, by copulation.
In summer you can also plant cuttings prepared in the fall. A new cut is made on them, which should go lower than the lower bud. The cuttings slept for a long time, so they are activated by immersing them in Epin’s solution for 15 minutes.
The rootstock is prepared by making one cut on the shoot, the second - in the middle of the first. The scion is inserted into the socket so that the eyes of the scion and rootstock look in different directions. The vaccine is secured. Using a similar technology, they graft “green onto green” - only in this case there is no need to soak the scion.
Autumn
In the fall, grapes are usually grafted onto old roots using one of two methods - in a split or in a standard. This approach allows you to revive old bushes, increase productivity and get a harvest within a year.
Conditions for vaccination and features of its implementation in the fall:
- Temperature not less than +15°C. The vaccination period is October-November.
- The clusters are completely harvested, the leaves should turn yellow.
- The cuttings are kept in a growth stimulator 2 days before the procedure, and then grafted using any suitable method.
Winter
Tabletop vaccination is carried out in January-March. One- to two-year-old bushes are used. Scion cuttings are prepared in the fall - in the usual way. Winter vaccination procedure:
- Late in the fall, when all the foliage has fallen from the bush, dig up the bush completely. Trim the bush, leaving a 10 cm trunk.
- Disinfect the cut in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Place the rootstock in a box with wet sand. Sprinkle with sawdust and store in a cellar at zero temperature.
- The day before the procedure, remove the rootstock from the cellar. Clean, check the roots, cut off the damaged ones completely, and cut off the healthy ones to 15 cm. Move the bush to a room with a temperature of 18-20°C for several hours.
- When the bush warms up, immerse the roots in water at a temperature of 15°C for a day.
- Dry the roots with a cloth, and then graft the cutting using any of the methods described above.
- Place the grafted bush in some container and cover with plastic wrap. Let it sit for several weeks in a warm place.
- After 2-3 weeks, move the bush to the cellar - let it wait for spring.
- In the spring, after the temperature reaches 15°C, take the bush outside for hardening. Start it with several hours, gradually increasing the intervals. After 2-3 days, plant the bush in the ground.
In this video, the gardener shows in detail how he does home, desktop, winter grafting of grapes:
Caring for grafted grapes
The survival rate of the vaccination depends not only on the correctness of the procedure, but also on further care. How to care for a grafted bush:
- For a whole year after grafting, loosen the earthen hill around the seedling.
- 30-40 days after grafting, remove the soil from one side and clean the roots that appear on the cuttings. Trim them. It is necessary that the scion and rootstock grow together into one whole. After cutting off the roots, fill the hill with soil.
- Trim emerging growth from time to time.
- Spray the shoots every 10 days Bordeaux mixture. First with a 0.5% solution, and then with a 1%.
- If there is little rain in the first half of summer, moisten the soil every week.
- If the soils are poor, fertilize. Fertilize the soil no more than three times per season.
- To prevent damage to the connection, attach shoots longer than 40 cm to supports or a trellis.
- When the shoots become woody - in August, remove the earthen mound near the grafted bush.
For proper distribution of nutrients, prune the shoots for 4 years.
Common Mistakes
Mistakes due to which the cutting does not take root:
- Due to improper storage of cuttings - non-compliance with humidity, temperature and other conditions. If the cuttings dry out, they will never take root. To be safe, you need to wrap the cuttings in film or dip them in paraffin.
- If the split is made too deep, it begins to rot. The split gets inside humid air, which causes rotting.
- If you make the cut uneven, the cutting will not take root. The reason for uneven cuts is a poorly sharpened tool.
When getting vaccinated, follow these rules:
- use only clean, disinfected instruments;
- follow the instructions for the selected method exactly;
- In order for the cutting to take root, achieve the closest possible contact between the scion and the rootstock;
- choose a scion from high stability to diseases characteristic of a particular region;
- choose rootstock and scion with the same growth rate;
- Prepare material for spring grafting in the fall;
- in summer and autumn, use fresh material for grafting;
- cut the cuttings away from you so that the cut is concave;
- cut the vine at right angles to the direction of growth;
- carry out vaccination at a temperature of +15 °C;
- Care for grafted bushes using a special technology - until the cuttings have completely taken root. Publications: 251
Grafting in gardening, as a way to obtain new varieties, stronger, fruit-bearing plants, is a popular technique. Among those involved in viticulture, it is in demand and appropriate. But in order to carry out the procedure profitably and efficiently, it is important to know how grapes are grafted at different times of the year, what tools and methods are used for this.
The purpose of grafting is to improve the qualitative and quantitative indicators of crop productivity, as well as its health. In gardening, grape grafting is necessary for the following reasons:
Thanks to grafting, gardeners have the opportunity to experiment with growing and crossing new varieties and hybrids. For some, this becomes an interesting hobby, and quickly obtaining results, in contrast to the methods of planting young seedlings or cuttings in the soil, helps analyze the work and stimulates new achievements.
What is needed to graft grapes?
To carry out the procedure, the following herbal components are required:
- rootstock is a part of a plant with a developed and rooted underground part, acting as a guarantor of the immunity of the future plant, providing the bush with moisture and nutrients;
- scion - a grafted part that selects the varietal and yield characteristics of the grapes from which it was taken.
When choosing what to graft grapes onto, rootstocks with resistance to low temperatures, serious illnesses. The underground part is selected with a strong, developed rhizome, which guarantees good growth and development of the new shrub. Age standards for the rootstock are 2-3 year old plants.
The scion is prepared in the fall or collected this year from ripening branches with 2-3 buds. For some grafting methods, separate buds with a surrounding part of the bark (scutellum) are used.
It is better to combine varietal varieties of rootstock and scion that are similar in terms of ripening and growth group. Cuttings are collected from healthy, strong bushes that show high yields. The length of the scion is 10-12 cm, the grafted part is cut out from the middle of the branches at an angle of 45 degrees.
The time of year and the correct timing of grafting often depend on the degree of maturation of the scion and rootstock. Using different ways, the procedure is carried out at any time of the year, but in compliance with strict deadlines depending on the stage life cycle plants.
Popular vaccination times: spring period from the last ten days of April to the first ten days of May, but at an established average daily temperature of 15 degrees Celsius. In this interval, it is important to catch the moment when the active movement of internal juice began, and the buds only swell, but do not bloom. Grafting in the spring is carried out using the “black to black” method, when woody cuttings, prepared in the fall, are attached to woody shoots.
In the summer (June-July), when the green branches have not yet begun to become woody, last year’s preparations are grafted onto them (the “black to green” method). To preserve the scion until summer, in the spring the cuttings are dipped into growth stimulants, after which they are immersed in warm paraffin (80 degrees) and cold water. The technique has low survival rates.
From August to September until the leaves are shed, the “green to green” technique is used, when the unripe parts that appeared this year are combined. In winter (February-March), a “tabletop” technique is used, when plants are connected indoors.
How to graft grapes correctly
The condition for successful vaccination is correct preparation cuttings and rootstock preparation. To do this, the cuts must be smooth and clean; only sharp, thoroughly disinfected garden tools are used.
The second requirement is the choice of the correct grafting procedure, which depends on the time of year, the degree of maturation of plant parts, the thickness of the scion and rootstock, and other factors. The following grafting methods are used for grapes:
- into a split (half-split);
- in a standard (on an old bush);
- butt budding;
- desktop;
- simple and improved copulation.
Each method has different implementation features.
The rootstock can be split when it is in a green or woody state. This method is considered the simplest, it differs high performance survival of cuttings. It is carried out according to the scheme:
- 2-3 days before the procedure, last year’s cuttings are taken out, their lower edges are sharpened 3-4 cm with a wedge;
- a cleft is made in the cleaned, even cut of the rootstock trunk (between the third and second nodes) to the same length as the wedges on the cuttings;
- two scion plants are inserted into each slot from different sides;
- at the junction, the trunk is tightly fixed with twine or film, and covered with clay;
- As the fusion progresses, the fastening material is removed.
The “half-split” joining is carried out in a similar way, but only one cutting is grafted onto the rootstock.
On old shrubs there is a need for renewal and rejuvenation. Adult representatives of the crop have a well-developed rhizome and provide great guarantees of durability and strength, which is ideal for quickly obtaining new varieties. Therefore, on old bushes, grafting is done into a standard or grape root.
The technique is being carried out late autumn(from the end of October), in early spring (March-April), when the rootstock is dormant. But it is permissible to graft at the root in May before the buds open, and in the summer with green cuttings. It is advisable to grow several copies of the scion of the same or different varieties on the rhizome at once.
For the procedure, the bush is dug up to a depth of 10-20 cm, cleaned, and the above-ground part is cut off. The grafting is carried out in the internodes on an even cut using the “split” method. After strengthening the crevice, the junction area is covered with earth.
How is butt budding performed?
The method is chosen for the spring introduction of a separate bud with a shield under the bark of the main plant. The scion bud is cut from the mature vine, 15-20 mm of bark is left up and down it. A similar cut or T-shaped split is made on the scion, into which the bud part is attached.
To ensure the fusion of the parts, the vine is wrapped in a bandage. The kidney remains unbandaged. Budding with green shields is also used in the summer.
A simple method is used for the black-to-black method. With it, the cuttings and the stem part are selected to match each other in thickness as much as possible. The moistened edges of the scion and rootstock are connected, pre-cut at the same angle with an even cut.
The junction area is tightly tied with cloth or gauze for fixation. The procedures are carried out clearly and quickly so as not to overdry the sections or damage smooth surfaces.
For improved copulation, a special zigzag tongue is cut out of the scion and rootstock sections so that both parts fit tightly and are fixed to each other.
It is carried out for replanting cuttings harvested in the fall onto 1-2 year old seedlings grown separately indoors. Subsequently, grafted plants are planted in the soil. Time: February-March.
Also, using this method, the cuttings of the scion and rootstock are connected and then placed in boxes with special soil, in which the process of merging the upper and lower parts, as well as the formation of roots, will take place.
The scion and rootstock are attached using the improved copulation method if the thickness is the same. At different indicators diameter of the trunks, grafting “into the cleft” is used.
For vaccination to be successful, it is important to follow the following recommendations:
- sharp garden tools, clean hands and materials are needed, since even small roughness on the cuts or introduced bacteria reduces the percentage of splicing to 0;
- improper storage of cuttings makes them unsuitable for grafting; the wood of the future scion should not dry out, freeze heavily, break, or be damaged;
- a tight joining of the rootstock and scion parts is required to eliminate the entry of air between them, which provokes rotting;
- Too much varietal incompatibility between the crop species being grafted causes a negative connection result.
You should not rely on a small number of grafted cuttings (buds). To increase the percentage of successful combination in one procedure, it is recommended to use up to a dozen compounds.
Grafting grapes good way expansion, rejuvenation of the garden, increasing the strength and health of the grapes, harvesting a large harvest in the future delicious berries. Each gardener selects for himself the optimal time frame and method of carrying out the popular procedure.
Bud grafting or shield budding is one of the easiest types of grape grafting to perform. Budding can be done with a shield from last year's woody cuttings or green shoots of grapes, and depending on the time of grafting, you can force the bud to bloom in the current season or leave it dormant until next year. This flexibility is very convenient in many cases. This article is devoted to grafting grapes by budding.
What is grape budding or bud grafting?
Budding, grafting with a bud or shield is a type of grafting in which a fragment (scutellum) with an eye (bud) is cut out from a rootstock shoot, and in its place is transplanted the same shield, cut from a grape shoot of the desired variety (scion).
One of the absolute advantages of grape grafting by budding is flexibility in terms of timing. From about the second half of May until mid-June, scion scions cut from last year's lignified cuttings can be used as a scion; from the beginning of June and for about two months, you can graft with a bud taken from the green shoots of the desired grape variety in the current year. Buddings made around mid-July can be forced to grow in the year of grafting (budding with awakening), but if you graft later, it is better to leave the bud dormant, in which case the grafting will be called “budding without awakening.” Budding without awakening assumes that the grafted bud will not bloom in the current season, and the scutellum will mature along with the rootstock and go into hibernation. Thus, the shoot from the grafted bud will begin to grow only by next year after vaccination. This can be very useful for regions with short summers, when there is a risk that the graft shoot may not have time to mature.
Technique for grape budding (bud grafting)
The following figure schematically shows the technique for budding grapes. In this case, the scion shield is grafted not onto the site of the removed bud, but onto the internode. This option is acceptable, but for a number of reasons I recommend grafting specifically to the site of the removed kidney, that is, to the node.
The following figure shows the technique of grafting fruit trees by budding the bark. In principle, grape grafting is no different from fruit grafting; the main principles remain unchanged: the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock must be identical, the temperature and humidity conditions must be maintained for callus formation and fusion of components.
In some countries with favorable climate Grafting grapes with a woody shield behind the bark of perennial wood is widely practiced. I live in the south of the Stavropol Territory, and our climate, in principle, also allows for grafting grapes in this way, however, the percentage of successful grafting is much lower than that provided by budding into green shoots, so we will further consider this method.
Summer budding of grapes with a shield (bud grafting)
Although grape budding can be done as early as May, this type of grafting is often called summer grafting, and not by chance. The grafted shield with the bud is almost completely wrapped in film, which means it is well protected from drying out by the scorching sun. I do budding in any weather, even if the heat is over +30C, and I never worry about shading the grafts, they take root perfectly. If technically kidney grafting is carried out correctly, then the survival rate always exceeds 90%.
On next photo a rootstock seedling is shown, on which I plan to graft by budding. I will graft into the third node from the bottom, it is marked with a red circle. For some reasons, which I won't go into now, it is preferable to graft into a knot that has a tendril, that is, a knot with a full diaphragm.
Preparation of the rootstock involves cleaning the nodes below the graft from eyes, stepsons and leaves. Carefully cut them off with a sharp knife, trying not to injure the wood of the shoot.
As a scion I prepared green cuttings grapes of the desired variety close in diameter with rootstock. If the work is expected to take a long time, and especially if it is carried out in hot weather, then it is better to immediately remove all the leaves and stepsons from the scion cuttings, and keep the cutting itself in a container with water to prevent it from withering.
Let's start vaccination. First we cut off the shield from the rootstock shoot. We do this smoothly so that the cut is as smooth and smooth as possible. Of course, the knife must have razor sharp. The beginning of the cut is made approximately 1-1.5 cm above the eye, and the end is 1.5-2 cm below the eye.
In practice, the shield has a completely different shape than is often depicted in books on viticulture. I made a drawing that plausibly shows the shape of the shield when budding grapes:
In total, two movements are made with a knife: with the first we cut out the shield with the kidney from top to bottom, with the second movement we cut off the shield, leaving a pocket at the bottom about a centimeter deep or a little less. This pocket will be very useful when you need to simultaneously hold the scion shield and wrap the graft. The following photo shows this very pocket:
The second step is to cut out a shield with a bud from a scion grape cutting. The length of the shield should be slightly longer than the one we cut from the rootstock, so that its lower part fits into the pocket on the scion. Immediately after the shield is cut, we insert it into place on the rootstock.
As you can see, the lower part of the shield fits into the pocket and is held there, making wrapping the budding much easier. For wrapping, I use regular cling film, but you can also use special wrapping tapes. I wrote more about materials for grafting in an article about tabletop grafting of grapes. The winding is applied from bottom to top, while the eye should remain open.
Now about what distinguishes vaccination without awakening from vaccination with awakening. My grafting was done with a green shield; under natural conditions, its bud should bloom only next year, and polarity will help make it start growing in the current season. It is necessary to stop the growth of the rootstock shoot and not leave it any other growth points except the grafted bud. It is not advisable to cut off the shoot directly above the graft; for better survival of the budding, vital activity, movement of assimilates and liquid must be maintained at the grafting site. Therefore, the shoot is cut 1-2 nodes above the grafting site, like this:
In the axils of the left rootstock leaves there are their own growth points: stepsons and eyes, they need to be carefully cut out with a knife:
Now everything is in order, there is not a single point of growth left on the rootstock, now it is “forced to push” the bud of the grafted eye into growth.
Grape buddings made with green scutes in the summer begin to grow somewhat later than in the case of scutes from lignified cuttings, because the green bud still needs some time to complete its formation. In my case, there is plenty of time, today is only June 7th. In general, I recommend budding with awakening to be done no later than the end of June, and if you need to vaccinate later, then it is better to leave it without awakening.
Budding with buds from woody grape cuttings makes it possible to obtain the first signal bunch of a new variety already in the year of grafting. Many winegrowers involved in new grape varieties take advantage of this opportunity. Several buddings can be made per rootstock shoot. Of course, the grafted grapes will ripen later than normal, but the interest of the test grower will be satisfied.
As for budding without awakening, everything is simple, you do not need to stop the growth of the rootstock, let it continue to grow quietly and the grafted bud will not wake up. Of course, budding without awakening can only be done with green scutes from the current year's shoots; last year's lignified cuttings are not suitable for this.
Caring for budding consists of periodic inspection; it is possible that rootstock shoots that have grown from buds on old wood, they need to be removed in time. As the shoot grows and thickens, the wrapping film will begin to cut into it; in this case, the film must be carefully cut and the tension loosened, and if more than 45-50 days have passed after grafting, the wrapping can be completely removed.
And in conclusion, I offer you a short video clip - a visual aid on grafting grapes with buds:
Addition. This is what my buds look like exactly two weeks after vaccination:
All the vaccinations done that day turned out to be successful, and by now they are starting to grow. Here and there a growth of rootstock has appeared that needs to be removed in a timely manner. Usually it comes from below, from the bole or from the base of a green shoot, but it happens that shoots appear from poorly blinded buds of the rootstock:
The shoots will appear even after the grafting begins to grow, so the buddings need to be regularly inspected and the rootstock shoots that appear must be removed.
Articles about other methods of grafting grapes.
