Timing of summer grafting of fruit trees. Summer grafting of fruit trees with green cuttings. Video about grafting apple trees in summer
Grafting is a procedure for transplanting a bud or cutting from a tree of one variety to a tree of another variety. Almost everyone experienced gardener is engaged in grafting trees in order to develop new varieties of fruit plants in the garden. This method is recognized as one of the most the best ways propagation of varietal plants.
The timing of tree grafting in summer, autumn, winter and spring is influenced by several factors - climatic conditions, plant characteristics, etc.
Vaccination appointments
Tree grafting has many benefits. It is carried out not only for the purpose of propagating new varieties of trees, but also for the purpose of saving space on garden plot, correcting the shape of the crown, rejuvenating and improving the general condition of plants in the garden.
Experienced gardeners know that best timing vaccinations fruit trees, in summer. However, many successfully carry out this procedure at other times of the year, using different methods.
First of all, you should study the compatibility of the grafted parts of the trees - scion and rootstock. For example, grafting a pear onto a birch tree will be ineffective, but if you graft an apple tree onto an apple or pear tree, you can get new variety fruit-bearing tree.
Time to graft fruit trees in summer
Nai best time for this procedure it is July-August. Pears are grafted first, then apples, plums and cherries. Grafting of peaches and apricots is carried out at a later date - in August. Preparation of the scion is carried out well in advance of the processing of the plantings. At this time of year, trees are grafted with green buds or shoots from the current year.
Grafting trees in autumn
It is difficult to say that autumn is the best time to graft trees. Since at this time of year gardeners are busy more preparation material for propagation and treatment of trees before wintering. It is worth remembering that if you decide to carry out such a procedure at this time, then you should not delay it. Everything needs to be done before frost sets in.
IN middle lane and in the Moscow region, tree grafting is carried out in the summer. This is the best time to carry out such an operation in cool weather. climatic conditions. By winter, the plants have time to grow together and take root.
Grafting garden trees in winter
As is known, in winter period All plants in the garden are in a dormant state, so it is not recommended to carry out any procedures for rejuvenation, replanting, etc. Grafting trees in winter can be quite successful if the required temperature is maintained at the time of this procedure.
Light frosts do not affect the survival rate of the scion. The effectiveness of such an operation is possible at a temperature not lower than -2 degrees. With more low temperatures the plant may die. After the work has been carried out, the tree is well wrapped in the grafting areas to protect it from the cold.
The result of such manipulation can only be observed in spring or summer. At this time of year, trees are grafted with cuttings, which are harvested in the fall.
Grafting fruit trees in spring
Most gardeners carry out this manipulation in the spring, because this time of year is the best time to carry out work in the country. For these purposes, cuttings are used on which the buds have not yet swelled. This is very important; if you are late with this, the procedure will have to be postponed until the summer.
It is during this period of the year that the best results can be achieved after this manipulation. Before starting this process, it is necessary to water the tree abundantly, then loosen the soil around it. This will improve air circulation and soil moisture holding capacity.
Thus, the roots of the trees will absorb the necessary substances, oxygen, and accelerate their growth and development.
If a tree of a low-value variety or a variety prone to disease grows on your site, then you should not uproot it. Grafting methods such as copulation or budding of fruit trees make it possible to reconstruct and repair plantings by transferring the scion to the rootstock.
On one tree you can grow from 2 to 5 varieties of apricots, cherries, or other fruits. This allows you to obtain many varieties of trees and save garden space.
Types of vaccinations and their timing
In gardening, the following main methods of grafting fruit trees are distinguished:
- Copulation.
- Ablactation.
- Grafting behind the bark, into the cut, into the split.
Some of the methods can only be used during a certain period of time, so novice gardeners need to know when to graft using one or another method, namely:
Basic rules of vaccination
The main rules for grafting fruit trees include the following:
It must be remembered that stone fruits grow only with other stone fruits, while pome fruits grow with identical ones.
For example, if there is a wild pear with small tart fruits on the site, you can transfer material from a good variety of pear, quince or apple tree.
An apple tree with unsatisfactory fruits can be crossed with a pear or other apple tree that will produce excellent, delicious apples. If there is a wild apricot with low-quality fruits on the site, you should graft it with a high-quality plum or apricot. A wild or dwarf cherry after a successful crossing procedure can turn into a sweet cherry or cherry with excellent properties. taste qualities.
Budding is carried out in mid-July-early August. July is best for stone fruits (cherries, plums, apricots), and August for pome fruits (apples, pears).
Summer budding involves grafting a scion bud onto the bark of another plant—the rootstock. The main condition for high-quality merging of the awakening bud with the rootstock is the elasticity of the tree bark.
The bark becomes elastic only at the beginning of the awakening of plants, when sap flow begins. If it is necessary to vaccinate with a kidney that is in a dormant state, then it is recommended to do this in the second half of summer.
The plant that was chosen as a rootstock should be prepared two weeks before splicing: loosen the soil around it, remove all weeds and water if necessary. The southern side of the tree trunk is not suitable for summer grafting, since the scorching rays of the sun can destroy the bud without allowing it to take root.
Tree budding is carried out in the following order:
In the case when fruit budding was carried out in the spring, merging the bud with the rootstock will already happen in two weeks.
If after this time the kidney has not taken root, then the budding was carried out incorrectly. If the result is positive, after two weeks the bandage must be carefully removed by cutting it with a knife or small scissors. When budding in summer, the bud will grow to the rootstock until next spring.
Copulation
The copulation method is the simplest compared to others, so it is recommended for beginner gardeners. It must be taken into account that in order to achieve a positive result, the diameter of the rootstock must coincide with the diameter of the scion at the cut site.
Copulation
Fruit copulation involves cutting both parts at an angle of 30˚ with the formation of tongues (pinches) on the cuts. Such pins help to secure the two elements more tightly to each other. The parts connected to each other must be tightly tied with thick plastic tapes. It is important to carry out copulation before sap flow begins. If this moment is missed, then this procedure can only be done in winter.
If it was not possible to select a scion and rootstock with a perfectly matching diameter, then the grafted cutting is applied to the side of the rootstock. Thus, up to 3 cuttings can be grafted onto one base. It should be borne in mind that you need to cut the branches of the scion and rootstock with only one pass of the knife.
This technology is almost never used in nurseries, but it is quite common among gardeners. The advantage of this method is that grafting can be done into a rootstock of any thickness, and the elements grow together quite well.
You can grow cuttings with a rootstock in a side cut in summer, spring or winter. Summer grafting is carried out using green cuttings, for this:
- A slot is cut on the side of the tree trunk, which should narrow at the bottom.
- The lower part of the scion is cut obliquely on both sides so that a long pointed end is obtained.
- The upper part is cut off so that two buds remain on the rootstock.
- The rootstock is inserted with its pointed end into a slot cut in the tree trunk, the spliced elements are coated with garden varnish and tightly fixed with cellophane tape.
Ablactation
Trees can be grafted using this method throughout the growing season, but the best time for this procedure is spring. This method involves merging two branches of nearby growing plants, which allows for the most efficient use limited spaces. Trees spliced using this method occupy a vertical area, which allows them to be planted near the walls of the house, brick fence or other structure.
So, how to graft fruit trees using ablation? To do this, you just need to cut off identical sections of skin on the scion and rootstock, connect both parts with the cuts facing each other, and wrap tightly with film.
Do not be upset if the graft was not made immediately the first time. Such work requires patience, attention and some experience.
In many cases, amateur gardeners, for various reasons, do not succeed in spring grafting with cuttings, and they are forced to re-carry out either the usual summer budding with a sleeping eye, or spring grafting with cuttings on next year, which entails a loss of annual growth in vaccinations. I am already 58 years old successful experience carrying out early (from May 25 to June 30) budding and vaccination of many fruit plants using buds (eyes) and cuttings from the current year's shoots.
For budding and grafting, the lower lignified or semi-lignified parts of growing shoots are taken. When grafting at the end of May, when the new shoot has not yet become lignified, it must be cut off from the mother plant with part of last year's wood. It has developed conductive vessels that have not yet had time to form in the non-lignified part of the current year’s shoot, which means it is capable of merging with the rootstock and being an intermediary in providing it with moisture and nutrients. When grafting at a later date, when part of the annual shoot has already become lignified, good grafting survival rates are also observed when cuttings without perennial wood are used.
In preparation for grafting, the leaves and herbaceous parts of the annual shoot are removed. When grafting with a cutting, it should be short (maximum 2-3 buds). During budding, buds from the semi-lignified part of the growing shoots also take root well.
The techniques and methods of grafting and budding are the most common. When grafting with cuttings in hot weather, it is advisable to put covers made of polyethylene film before they grow together. The survival rate of buddings and graftings at this time due to the intensive growth of the rootstock is very good or high. Grafted individual budding buds and buds on grafted cuttings bloom after a week, a maximum of 12 days, and shoots begin to grow, which by the end of July reaches 20–50 cm (depending on the timing of grafting, the quality of the rootstock and scion, weather conditions).
Unlike spring vaccination cuttings, these grafts grow very tightly with the rootstock and when small sizes do not require tying to other branches or special rods, as well as some other operations to prevent breakage. This significantly reduces the labor intensity of caring for vaccinations. Shoots from late June budding and grafting, regardless of their length, to prevent winter freezing, require mandatory pinching (possibly with the tips bent down) at the end of August for faster lignification.
In this way I grafted apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, apricots, rowan trees, hawthorns, shadberry, quince, cotoneaster, bird cherry and other crops, and always got good results. I received cuttings for grafting from different places. I often brought it myself when on business trips, or received it by mail. When requesting cuttings to be sent by mail, I always asked that May cuttings of the current year be sent to me with part of the perennial wood. Grafting fruit plants at the specified time is especially suitable for propagating cherries, plums and apricots. When grafted with cuttings in spring, cherries give a very low survival rate due to the rapid oxidation of the cuts. During summer budding with a dormant eye, a significant number of buds do not have time to grow normally with the rootstock before frost. An addition to the death of overwintering buds is the constant partial warming and complete damping off of these buds. And only early summer budding and grafting guarantees good way out grafted cherry plants. Plum and apricot, although they give a large percentage of the yield of established grafts or seedlings from spring grafting, still from early budding and grafting this percentage turns out to be much higher. Summer budding with a dormant eye of these plants due to the massive damping off of the grafted buds in the winter in our conditions is generally meaningless.
I would also like to draw attention to the convenience of using budding and grafting within the specified time frame at a time that is more free for amateur gardeners, since spring budding with a germinating bud and grafting with cuttings require the most intense and busy spring time, which is not always feasible.
At one time, my father, who mastered all the grafting techniques at the same time as me, preferred early budding and grafting to all other methods. He was especially proud of the almost 100% yield of cherry grafts, which other amateur gardeners he knew were doing very poorly. It still grows and bears fruit in my garden. stale form, though not very well, is a 55-year-old cherry tree of the Vladimirskaya variety, which he grafted with an eye on a scion of the Volga steppe cherry in mid-June.
You need to prepare in advance for spring and early summer vaccinations. Stock up on cuttings and everything you need, and before this time, practice at the table, independently mastering budding and grafting techniques or restoring skills lost during the winter.
Based on materials from the newspaper “Ural Gardener”, No. 12, 2011
Improving the structure of an orchard and its condition in summer has a number of advantages and allows:
- Use it rationally working hours during the year;
- Increase the time frame for selecting varieties;
- Assess the condition of the trees after being selected as a rootstock;
- Correct mistakes made as a result of spring vaccination;
- Reduce costs for storing cuttings.
Vaccination dates
By mid-summer, annual shoots stop their intensive growth, in the upper part the distance between the kidneys and the formation of the apical part ends. At this time, the wood of the shoot hardens and the young bark begins to easily separate from the core.
The best time for apple trees is coming. To check the status you need make an incision sharp knife And pick up the edge of the bark. If separation occurs freely, it means that the shoot is ripe and can be used for grafting.
Calendar dates depend on the climatic zone, weather conditions and the fruiting period of apple trees. It starts in mid-July. Grafting an apple tree in July with a cutting should be completed two to three weeks before the average daily temperature begins to drop below 15 degrees C, that is, in fact, the procedure can be carried out:
- In the northern regions - until August 5;
- In central areas – until August 15;
- In the south - until August 30.
At the same time, grafting apple trees in summer with fresh cuttings should be completed earlier for varieties more early dates maturation. Autumn and late varieties with long ripening periods also have later grafting dates.
Harvesting cuttings
Cuttings are used as rootstock:
- One-year shoot at least 30 cm long;
- With a cut diameter of 5-6 cm;
- Well ripened;
- Having a color characteristic of the variety;
- Undamaged by pests;
- No signs of illness.
Prepare material better on the south side of the tree, removing competing branches so as not to harm the mother plant.
The shoots are very elongated, with too long distances between the buds and have a light green color may be underprepared or weakened.
Storing cuttings
Cuttings are prepared for summer grafting on the day of work or the day before, then they are stored in water. It is better to carry out the work within 2-3 hours.
This way you can save cuttings for up to two weeks, but this will reduce survival rate. The most favorable hours for harvesting are mornings without rain.
From a cut branch leaves are removed immediately, since moisture quickly evaporates through them, which reduces the quality of the scion.
It is better to prepare buds for budding from the middle of the shoot, choosing more flattened and elongated, which are growth.
Using a sharp budding knife, an incision begins at a height of 1.5-2 cm above the bud; up to the bud, the knife moves between the bark and wood; at the level of the bud, it is buried in order to capture the layer of wood to provide the scion with sufficient nutrition.
This cut is called "with shield". The length of the bark cut at the bottom is slightly shorter than at the top (1.0-1.5 cm). The cutting surface should keep away from dirt, to prevent infection.
ADVICE! Not all methods are suitable for vaccination in summer. Most effective method- bud budding, which is performed in two ways:
- in T - shaped section;
- in the butt.
Summer grafting of an apple tree with green cuttings: video
Budding in a T-shaped incision
Done on the selected rootstock vertical cut to the depth of bark to wood, above - transverse at a slight angle to him.
Vertical section on the rootstock.
The size of the cut should correspond to the size of the shield. Without lifting the knife, gently peel back the bark And insert the prepared kidney into the incision so that it fits as closely as possible to the wood of the rootstock.
Placing a bud into a rootstock.
For better survival, the kidney should be positioned There is a cut closer to the bottom. The edges of the cut should be smooth, the excess should be trimmed with a knife.
The bud should fit tightly to the rootstock.
The grafting site is tightly wrapped with film or electrical tape, wrapping it in a spiral as tightly as possible: starting from the bottom, and then back from top to bottom. The kidney should remain open.
Securing the bud to the rootstock.
The remaining part of the petiole (1 cm) can become a kind of indicator. If after 2-3 weeks its tail falls off easily, it means the bud has taken root.
Important! You only need to remove the harness during summer grafting next spring.
Butt budding
Used for mature trees and large branches with rough bark, which does not come away from the wood well. At the grafting site on the rootstock, a 2.5-3 cm cut of the bark is made from top to bottom with a thin strip of wood 0.5-0.7 cm wide.
Cutting the bark onto the rootstock.
Cut off 2/3 of the strip. The remaining part is folded back and a wedge-shaped incision is made at the bottom at an angle. A shield with a bud is inserted into the incision under the bark.
The kidney is inserted into the lower part of the incision.
The tying is performed in the same way as in the first case. The exposed areas of the cuts are covered with garden varnish.
Wrap with film or tape.
Watch the video on how to properly perform summer budding in the butt:
Summer grafting of apple trees with cuttings
In summer, methods of grafting with green cuttings can be used:
- Into the cleft. Grafting apple trees with cuttings in summer is done with a branch with 1-2 buds. Used when the diameter of the rootstock is significantly thicker than the scion. The cutting below the bud is cut at a long oblique angle on both sides. The rootstock is split 2-3 cm with a sharp knife. Two cuttings are inserted into the split, which increases the survival rate. Work should be carried out quickly, do not allow the material to dry out or become dirty;
- Into the side cut. Used for grafting young branches. A cutting, pointed on both sides, is inserted into an oblique cut of bark with wood on the rootstock, achieving maximum abutment;
- B T-shaped cut. It is performed in the same way as for budding. Instead of one bud with a shield, a cutting with two is used. Using an oblique cut, the scion is inserted into the cut on the rootstock.
In all cases, the grafting site is tightly wrapped in film and shaded. The kidney remains free.
Rootstock selection
Attention! The rootstock should be selected taking into account the type of plant being grafted and the timing of its fruiting.
If a late shoot is grafted onto an early plant, then during the growing season it will not have enough time to form a normal harvest. You can graft onto the skeletal branches of an apple tree several varieties with similar growth periods and vigor, which will even improve fruiting taking into account cross-fruiting.
For the apple tree The best rootstock will be those grown by sowing seeds. Preference is given to the Antonovka and Anis varieties, as they are well adapted to other varieties.
Also used wild ones, grown without human intervention. They are transplanted into orchard and after rooting they are grafted with selected varieties.
Vaccination for wild animals
Suitable for summer vaccination only young trees or root shoots with a grafted branch diameter of 0.8-1.5 cm, located close to the trunk. Excess branches and shoots formed below the grafting site that are not suitable for subsequent use must be removed.
If one variety is grafted onto a wild game, then only a trunk up to 70 cm high is left and the grafting method is used into the cleft. If several skeletal branches are chosen for grafting, you can graft budding or side cut.
The plant must have enough moisture to heal, so in dry, hot weather, the grafting site should be shade and protect from moisture evaporation.
Grafting on a pear
It is recommended to use plants of the species that we will graft as a rootstock. Compatibility of scion and rootstock is decisive factor receiving good harvest from grafted plants in a short time.
But the inquisitive mind of breeders is constantly working to create new varieties and hybrids through interspecific grafting.
One of the experiments of closely related grafting - apple trees on pear trees. There are positive examples, although they are few.
The method is not practiced everywhere, but has the right to life. If a gardener is willing to spend 3-5 years on an experiment, then perhaps nature will reward him for his diligence with a good harvest.
Conclusion
Graft garden plants not only a fascinating process, but also an opportunity to realize your dreams of creating a Garden of Eden with your own hands.
