Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases. How to spray fruit trees against diseases and pests When to treat the garden against pests in spring
Preface
In order to enjoy juicy, healthy apples or other fruits in summer or autumn, you need to start processing in the spring garden trees and bushes, do sanitary pruning.
Pre-spring work in the garden
Now is the time to shake the snow off the trees. It is wet, heavy and may well break branches. Nature wakes up after winter. That's why early spring it is necessary to carry out a certain set of activities on the site.
Carefully inspect the branches fruit trees, whether there are any pests that have overwintered on them. Now is the time to think about trimming broken and dead branches, so bring along. You can also shape the crown of trees.
But the main work still lies in spraying the trees. As soon as the average air temperature reaches + 5°C, and the buds have not yet had time to bloom, it is necessary to fight diseases and feed the trees.
Video: Clearing snow from fruit trees
Protecting trees from spring burns and pest control
In early spring the weather is quite unstable. It can be high during the day and drop sharply at night. Under these conditions, the bark on the trees warms up unevenly. Let’s say that on a warm March day the temperature of the trunk in the sun will be 12 degrees higher than on the shaded side. Helps get rid of this difference lime whitewash trunk
In this case, the readings will differ only within 3 or 5 degrees. Overheating of the bark followed by freezing can cause early spring burns. And they will lead to the death of the tree, especially if it is a young seedling. It is necessary to restore the whitewash if it was damaged during the winter period.
When pruning garden trees in early spring, you need to get rid of damaged branches. They should not be left under a tree, because they are probably infected with: cytosporosis, scale insects, bark beetle larvae, black cancer or other pests and diseases.
At the same time as this work, it is necessary to treat existing wounds on the trunks and branches. The damage is cleaned, smoothed with a knife until living tissue appears, then disinfected with a 1% solution copper sulfate, in a proportion of 10 g per 1 liter of water and carefully cover this area with garden varnish.
How to spray trees in early spring
Modern industry offers gardeners many different means for spraying trees at the very beginning of spring. For these purposes the following is used:
- copper sulfate;
- mineral oil emulsion;
- Bordeaux mixture;
- emulsion “Preparation-30”;
- nitrophen and others.
The cheapest drug is copper sulfate. But don’t look at its low cost, it is quite effective, so most gardeners prefer it. It is used against scab, fruit rot, leaf curl, black cancer, brown leaf spot and other diseases.
Mineral-oil emulsions are liquid mixtures of mineral oil with water and an emulsifier. The emulsifier usually contains:
- soap;
- glue or kaolin;
- iron or copper sulfate.
Emulsions fight pests such as aphids, scale insects, and help destroy the eggs of codling moths, copperheads and other insects. They should be used in early spring, before the buds open. In summer, at temperatures above 35℃, the emulsion can cause severe burns on the tree.
Bordeaux mixture is an opaque, sky-blue solution. Gardeners have been using this liquid for more than a hundred years in the fight against garden pests. It is recommended to use it until the buds open. The mixture destroys scab and fungal diseases trees or shrubs. It is also used as disinfectant for wounds of fruit trees. It is not recommended to store it; it must be used immediately after preparation.
Emulsion “Preparation-30” is an oil-oil emulsion of white or light gray color. It is packaged in 2-liter jars and has a shelf life of 2 years. In spring, all fruit and berry crops can be treated with emulsion against wintering herds of scale insects, spider mites, leaf rollers, minnows, moths and other pests. And in the summer, spray the trees and ornamental shrubs from stray first and second generation scale insects
Nitrophen is a drug against the wintering stages of pests and diseases. This pasta brown, packaged in tin or glass jars or polymer bottles. The shelf life of nitrophen is 2 years. It works well as a disinfectant for wounds on fruit trees.
Video: Spraying trees and shrubs in early spring
Treating trees with copper sulfate
Before spraying, you must first clean the trunk of lichens with a brush. When processing trees you can use hand pump, they are sold in special garden stores. But it is advisable to have an automated sprayer. It is much more convenient and easier to work with. For those gardeners who already have mature trees, you need to have one that can be extended in various ways. Most likely, you will have to tie it to a stick so that you can reach even the very top branches or use special telescopic rods.
You should also worry about your own safety. Robe, gloves, hat and glasses. These items will protect you from getting the solution on bare areas of your body. A respirator will not allow solution vapors to enter the upper respiratory tract.
Before processing begins, the solution must be stirred. This is done as follows: 100 g of copper sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water. IN cold water vitriol dissolves less well. Therefore, you can dilute it at home hot water, for example, in a three-liter jar, and then pour the contents into a bucket.
The solution must be poured into the sprayer through a funnel and several layers of gauze. Content filtering is mandatory. This is done to prevent the sprayer nozzle and hose from becoming clogged with undissolved particles. Now you should pump air into the balloon, hang it on your shoulder and go ahead.
This article describes the process of treating trees with copper sulfate. But you can use any products that you like best or have already purchased. Each package contains detailed instructions how to use it.
How to spray trees correctly
Wood processing must be carried out carefully from all sides. The jet must be directed from the edge to its central part. It is best to do this one by one with each large branch. Only in this case is it possible to achieve maximum effect.
Don't forget to spray the soil around the tree. If there are still last year's leaves on it, they will rot much faster. Also, using the solution, spores of harmful fungi or the pests themselves will be destroyed. The remaining solution can be used on nearby shrubs, grapes or other plants.
After you have treated the trees, you need to carefully rinse the device with water. To do this, pour into the sprayer clean water and send her away. In this case, the nozzles and hoses will not become clogged with remaining dried solution particles. Change your clothes and be sure to wash your hands and face with soap.
Video: Spraying trees in spring
What is needed for spraying trees and shrubs
Trees can also be treated with a combination of products in early spring. They will help you deal with several types of pests at once, which will give you the opportunity to avoid several cycles of spraying trees and at the same time fertilize the plant. An example is urea. You can learn about this from our other materials.
In order for the tree spraying work to be carried out efficiently and have good efficiency, you must have everything necessary tools and devices.
To prevent such problems from arising, it is necessary to periodically treat the area by special means. The first of these is considered to be spring treatment garden, about the methods of which and we'll talk in this article.
Why treat your garden in spring?
The key activities that include garden care in early spring are pest control and the prevention of fungal and infectious diseases. To effectively protect young and mature trees, carry out comprehensive treatment.
When to spray trees and shrubs in the garden in spring
A responsible owner who cares about the future harvest begins work in the garden immediately after the first snow has melted. After all, there is a lot of work to be done: before you start spraying the garden, you need to carefully prepare everything.
If you are just starting to get involved in this business, and do not really understand the intricacies, then it is better to invite experienced specialist, which will tell you what to do first. The 3 months of spring can be divided into 3 main stages in gardening:
The beginning and middle of March - before the bud formation process begins - is an excellent time to take care of your favorite trees and shrubs. Gardeners protect trees from various harmful microorganisms that overwintered in cracks in the bark and began their active work, which negatively affects growth, bud formation, flowering and subsequent fruit formation.
The beginning and middle of April are devoted to spraying the buds and stimulating their growth. Responsible gardeners know that during this period various fungal diseases can appear en masse on trees, which require a quick response and measures aimed at protecting the entire garden.
The first half of May, when everything has already bloomed, is a period when trees can be very sick, that is, after previously taken measures, you should not relax, but constantly monitor and take care of the garden. If the first 2 stages passed without problems, then the 3rd stage is very important, because the further ripening of the fruit depends on it.
Tree pruning before spring gardening
It will help remove sources of diseases and overwintered pests remaining from the fall from the garden.
At the end of February and in March, they do sanitary pruning: remove dry, damaged branches, remove them from the garden and burn them. At the same time, you can begin to reduce the crown and cut out improperly growing branches. Be sure to cover the cuts.
During the snow melting, when the temperature is above +5C and before the buds open, continue pruning, clear the bark of mosses and lichens (if this was not done in the fall).
Treating the garden with biological preparations
For those gardeners who want to reduce the use of chemicals in their garden, biological protection methods can be offered:
For example, to prevent the development of powdery mildew, currant and gooseberry bushes are doused with hot (70 degrees C) water before the snow completely melts.
Against wintering pests and vermin, eradicative spraying of tree crowns is carried out with 10% table salt.
Treating the garden with chemicals
Of the chemical insecticides allowed, alatar, fufanon, kemifos, spark - 10 ml per 10 liters of water, kinmiks (2.5 ml), actellik (15 ml). Any of them can be used. IN lately The pear borer has spread in the gardens. It begins to cause damage at the beginning of flowering and continues throughout the summer because it produces 4 generations. To combat it, fufanon is used during the budding phase - 2 treatments with an interval of 20 days. Add 40 g to the solution laundry soap.
Treating the garden with iron sulfate
Before treating the garden with iron sulfate, you need to remember that it cannot be mixed:
- with drugs related to Karbofos;
- with lime;
- with substances that decompose upon contact with alkali.
Instead of lime, you can use wood ash to prepare the whitewash mixture. Its three-day infusion (1 glass per 3 liters of boiling water) after straining is combined with 9 liters of water. 600 g of iron sulfate are dissolved in the resulting extract.
Iron sulfate can be sprayed trunk circles after digging. It also needs to be addressed immediately after the cold weather subsides. In dug up soil, pests become defenseless against possible frosts. Some of them, however, will be able to survive them. Ferrous sulfate finishes them off.
Sometimes trees are treated with iron sulfate without first removing moss and lichen from their trunks. Those who do not want to injure the bark by mechanical cleaning spray the plants with a chemical solution twice. Within 2 weeks after the first spraying, the growths on the trees should die off. Then the treatment with iron sulfate must be repeated.
April marks the period when insect pests lay eggs under the bark of plants. At the same time, the plants begin to bud. It would be good to carry out a secondary spraying of trees, shrubs and vines before the first leaves appear. By the way, iron sulfate tends to delay the beginning of the growing season by 7-10 days. Gardeners use the chemical to help plants survive possible frosts without consequences.
Iron sulfate has another important function. It fights iron deficiency in the soil. A 1% mixture of chemical and compost is usually applied to the soil during autumn digging. For those who did not fertilize the soil in the fall, you can add sulfate by digging up the area in the spring.
Treating the garden with copper sulfate
Copper sulfate - promotes the opening of buds and their growth, and also actively fights various pathogens. The solution should be with a 1% concentration of this substance; it will be enough to treat shrubs and big trees in the garden.
Treating the garden with garlic extract
Garlic tincture is quite effective against insect pests and diseases - copperhead, aphids, mites, rust, etc. Plants are sprayed with it. It is prepared like this:
- Chop 0.5 kilograms of garlic and dilute in 3-5 liters of water;
- strain and squeeze out the grounds;
- soak the resulting cake in water again;
- pass through a sieve, mix everything and add water to 10 liters.
This rich extract repels insects with its scent. There are still many folk remedies and recipes for various tinctures, herbal decoctions, which may be effective, but there is no guarantee that they will be as effective as chemicals.
When it comes to the question of how to treat the garden in early spring, preference is given to chemical preparations that have a stronger effect than folk remedies. During spraying, particles of poisons enter not only the plants, but also the gardener’s lungs. In order not to harm your health, do not turn yourself into with my own hands into a sick larva, you must adhere to some rules for working with harmful substances. All treatments garden plants against pests and diseases must be carried out in calm, dry weather. Otherwise, drops of the medicinal solution will scatter through the air and will not fall on the plants, and the rain will wash everything away, making the work in vain.
In order to enjoy fruits and berries again next year, it is necessary to properly treat the trees and the soil under them from diseases and pests.
Autumn processing garden plot includes sprinkling the crowns of bushes and trees with insecticides and fungicides, digging up the soil, applying fertilizers and protecting plants from small rodents. With the arrival of cold weather heat-loving crops additionally covered with spunbond and mulched with sawdust, peat, dry leaves and similar materials. You should not ignore such procedures if you value the harvest next year.
Pests like to gather in fallen leaves and cut branches, and if there are still heaps of unharvested garden tops and weeds in the garden, you can expect an invasion of diseases and harmful insects next year.
Before starting to treat trees against pests, it is necessary to clean the garden area and burn all plant debris infected with pathogenic infections. Cannot be placed in compost heap tops of diseased plants and pruned branches of infected trees.
It is worth paying special attention to pre-winter treatment cultivated plants in the garden, because the prospects for the future harvest directly depend on this. Preparing the garden for winter is aimed at solving several problems:
- Freeing plants from insect pests.
- Elimination of foci of pathogenic infections on garden plants.
- Reducing the risk of damage to garden plants from rodents.
- Warming the garden in winter.
Removing leaves from the garden
Use a rake to carefully collect the leaves. If your shrubs and trees have not been affected by diseases and pests, send the leaves to the compost heap or to warm beds, use as mulch for wintering flowers. But keep in mind: those infected with scab, powdery mildew and other diseases, the leaves are not suitable for this. Take them off your property and burn them.
Don't forget to remove leaves from the roofs of all your buildings located on the site!
When and why is treatment carried out?
Treatment of the garden in the fall against pests and diseases begins when the trees and shrubs lose their leaves. This time occurs at the end of September - beginning of October. For activities, choose a dry, non-rainy day, before early frosts.
Often insects lay larvae on the lower surface of the leaf, so it is advisable not to bury the foliage in the ground, then you will simplify their task. You should also not leave leaves and straw as a layer of mulch, so as not to attract mice for wintering. Dig up the surrounding circles of soil well to 15-20 cm to get rid of pests and their caterpillars overwintering in the soil.
Do this procedure carefully, use a rake so as not to injure the roots of the plantings.
Caring for strawberries and strawberries
After removing the trimmed leaves and old mulch, where pests hide for the winter, you can begin processing the strawberry bushes. This crop is susceptible to many fungal diseases infectious diseases, and this crop has plenty of pests. Autumn is the time when chemicals will not poison strawberries, so processing can be carried out without fear.
- The following preparations are very helpful in clearing strawberry plantations of mites: Apollo; Flumite; Omite; Sunmite; Neoron, Nissan.
- Larger Enemies strawberry beds die from the use of insecticides, the most popular drugs among them are: Karbofos, Fufanon, Actellik, Fosbecid, Rovikurt, Inta-vir, Tsipershans.
Preventive treatment against diseases is carried out using copper-containing preparations.
Preparing shrubs for winter
In the fall, remove unnecessary shoots, diseased, dried and old branches from berry bushes.
Make cuts above the bud, which is directed outward of the bush.
In addition, cut off all branches older than 5 years at the root, and cut out branches older than 8 years for red and white currants. This will allow young shoots to grow faster in the spring. In order for the bushes to overwinter better, after pruning, feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (for example, use 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate for each plant).
Gooseberry bushes are fertilized in the fall with 30 to 50 grams of double superphosphate (applied to the ground to a depth of 7 cm) and 20 to 25 grams of potassium sulfate for each bush. When digging, you can add 2 to 3 cups of ash per bush. Bushes are pruned annually in the fall after they reach 6 years of age. All dry, diseased and unproductive branches must be removed. Root shoots are trimmed as they grow.
On the bushes, cut out all branches that bear fruit, are diseased, and are thickening the bush. Leave only healthy annual shoots. If necessary, bend them to the ground so that the plants overwinter better. Cut out the branches of remontant raspberries close to the ground (but this can be done in early spring).
It is effective to feed raspberries with rotted manure at the rate of (6 kg per 1 sq.m of soil), diluted with chicken manure at a ratio of (1:12), as an alternative, you can use double superphosphate in the amount of 20 grams per 1 m of raspberry row.
Now you know how to prepare your garden for winter and take proper care of fruit trees and berry bushes. We hope that your green pets will successfully winter in next season will thank you good harvest delicious fruits.
Fruit tree processing
Tilling your garden in the fall is extremely important. A gardener should not forget about the fruit-bearing trees that gave you a harvest. Take care of them. As soon as the foliage begins to turn yellow, it is necessary to apply organic and mineral fertilizers under the tree trunk.
After harvesting the last fruits, you need to carefully inspect the trees, cut off branches broken under the burden of the harvest, cut off unhealthy and dried out shoots, heal wounds and hollows.
Remember! The tool for cutting branches must be sharp and clean.
All cuts must be covered with garden varnish. It is good to clean the hollows, treat them with copper or iron sulfate and cover them with special garden putty or garden varnish. Before the leaves fall, spray the area - disinfect the fruit-bearing garden from scab - trees with a 4% urea solution.
To do this, dissolve 400 g of urea in 10 liters of water. You also need to spray the ground around the tree. If it is a dry autumn, then it is necessary to water the garden thoroughly and arrange barrier furrows to prevent water from draining. In an old garden, after rain, peel off the decayed bark from the trunk and main skeletal branches (pests can hide there), remove the hunting belts - burn all these parts.
Do not keep embalmed fruits on trees over the winter; they must be removed and burned. Late autumn whitewash the trees. It is advisable to do this when the autumn showers have already ended, otherwise all the paint will be washed off. The young garden needs to be protected from small rodents. To do this, place poisoned baits in secluded places, but so that the birds do not try them.
The trunks and main skeletal branches of trees in a young garden must be wrapped non-woven material or spruce branches. This way mice and hares won't gnaw away the bark.
Remove growth from grafted and dwarf plantings in the garden. Attract birds to the garden - hang feeders for tits, waxwings and bullfinches. In mid-November, mulch the tree trunks with peat.
As soon as the snow falls, trample it around the trees so that mice cannot reach the trunks. Collect snow from the paths and dust the tree trunks. This will protect root system trees from extreme cold. Treating trees against pests and diseases in the fall is done in this way. If everything is done correctly, then next year's harvest will make you very happy.
Tree pruning
Before the onset of frost in dry weather, it is necessary to prune fruit trees. Using sharp pruning shears or a garden saw, it is necessary to completely remove dry, damaged, diseased branches and branches growing inside the crown. After that, the sections must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate (dissolve 1 tsp of the substance in 1 liter of water) and cover with garden varnish or oil paint.
Treatment against diseases and pests
After leaf fall, begin autumn gardening. If you find signs of mold on the trees, spray the plants with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. In order to get rid of the causative agents of coccomycosis, powdery mildew, scab and other common diseases, treat the crowns of trees with urea at the rate of (0.5 kg of urea per 10 liters of water). Also spray the soil around the trees, only with a more concentrated solution (1 kg of urea per 10 liters of water).
Treatment with urea helps destroy pests that hibernate in top layer soil and on tree branches
In the fight against pests, loosening the soil with a pitchfork in tree trunk circles to a depth of 20 cm helps. After this procedure, insect larvae appear on the surface of the earth and, accordingly, die during severe frosts.
How to spray plants
At this time, gardening shops sell a wide range of specialized formulations (often combined with fungicides and insecticides) for autumn spraying of garden plots. But we will discuss the most popular means.
- Until mid-October, spraying with urea is carried out. In autumn it is good medicine to combat fungal diseases, as well as scabs and spots. In addition, urea perfectly burns insect eggs and harms pupae. But apply urea at the end autumn period(closer to winter) is not necessary, since this composition feeds the plant with nitrogen. Urea is very often used as a nitrogen supplement. If you spray the garden with it for the winter, vegetation processes are activated in the plantings. The garden will not have time to prepare for sleep before the cold weather begins and, most likely, will die. For this reason, treating trees with urea in the fall is allowed, but only until the end of October. A month before the onset of frost, there is no need to sprinkle the garden with urea.
- To combat scab, powdery mildew and putrefactive diseases, other fungicides should be used. For example, treating trees with copper sulfate in the fall shows an excellent effect. This product can be used at any time of the year.
- If you add slaked lime to copper sulfate in a 1:1 ratio, you get the so-called Bordeaux mixture - a good composition for parallel combat against diseases and insects. Treating trees with Bordeaux mixture is the most known species spraying to date. The product has a soft bluish tone, so if your plantings are wrapped in a film of heavenly color, there is no need to worry. Over time, the color will be removed, but there will be no hostile insects or harmful microbes in the garden.
- Sometimes trees are treated with iron sulfate in areas, mainly in apple orchards. This fungicide works similarly to copper sulfate, only in addition it feeds the vegetation with iron. This is an extremely important trace element for the Apple tribe. It takes an active part in many oxidative processes in apple trees, plums, cherries, and peaches.
Insecticides can be added to copper or iron sulfate. This will give more successful control of insects.
After all autumn activities have been carried out (pruning, treating trees with fungicides, whitewashing, placing insulation and protective equipment) do not forget to clean up the landing area. You do not process waste in the form of fallen leaves and trimmed branches, but insect pests can easily live in them and pathogens can breed. For this reason, all garbage must be collected and burned.
Autumn feeding of trees
As organic fertilizers at this time of year, use slurry diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, compost (for trees from 1 to 7 years old - 1.5-2 kg per 1 sq.m of trunk circle, for trees older than 7 years - from 2 to 3 kg), ash at the rate of (100 g per 10 liters of water), humus (1/2 bucket per 1 sq.m of tree trunk circle).
In autumn, fruit trees also need mineral fertilizers, with the exception of nitrogen, which activates growth processes that are undesirable at this time and reduces the winter hardiness of plants. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer must be applied to the trunk circle of each tree.
For trees under 10 years of age, use 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium chloride per 1 square meter of tree trunk circle. For trees older than 10 years, feed at the rate of 4 tablespoons of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of potassium chloride. Feed cherries and plums with 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate, diluted in 10 liters of water. For each mature tree use 4 buckets of this fertilizer.
Abundant watering
It is important that the fruit trees go to winter without drying out. If the autumn was not rainy enough, thoroughly water the soil in the circles around the tree trunks. During autumn watering, use approximately 50 liters of water per adult plant. Water the trees in stages: approximately 12 to 15 liters per hour. The soil should become moist to a depth of approximately 1 m. Please note that the water temperature should be 5°C higher than the ambient air temperature outside.
After watering, mulch the tree trunk circles with peat, spruce branches, humus or compost. This will help retain moisture in the soil.
Autumn whitewashing of trees
In order to protect trees from pests and spring sunburn, whiten the trunks to the base of the lower skeletal branches. Use ready-made whitewash (sold in gardening stores) or prepare it yourself; for this you will need: dilute 3 kg of lime and 500 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water.
Autumn whitewashing of the garden is carried out in October-November
Protecting trees from rodents
Hares and mice love to eat the bark of fruit trees in winter. Rodents can cause serious damage to plants, especially young seedlings. To prevent this from happening, wrap the trunks to a height of 50 to 100 cm with nylon tights, roofing felt or cut plastic bottles.
