• Interior
• Windows
• Walls
• Projects
• Buildings

How to sow watermelons. How to plant watermelons - tips for a good harvest. Planting watermelon seeds for seedlings

Probably every gardener has thought about how to grow watermelon in the country. With desire and a little patience, it is easy to achieve good results in this matter. Quite simple agricultural technology will allow you to get a harvest, including for a novice gardener, and even for a child.

Selecting seed material

Grow watermelon seedlings It is also possible from a watermelon seed purchased in a store, but in this case it is definitely impossible to guarantee a good result, since the fruits of the daughter plant are unlikely to be similar to the mother ones. That is, if you purchased an unusually tasty, sweet, juicy watermelon, then the fruits grown from its seeds will certainly differ in taste. Therefore, in this case, it is better to purchase high-quality seed material at specialized sales points.

As for the choice of variety, then experienced gardeners It is advised to purchase hybrid varieties, since they are the ones that are more adapted to changeable weather conditions and the climate in which we live, and are also the most resistant to possible diseases. Among hybrid varieties the most famous are the following:

• Astrakhan;
• Madeira;
• Sympathy F1;

Video about growing watermelons

However, if you are going to grow a watermelon for the first time, then you can experiment by choosing for planting, but preferably still early ripening ones, such as Ogonyok, Sugar Baby, etc.

It is necessary to start work at the end of March - mid-April, then young plant will have time to gain strength and will tolerate transplantation well permanent place growth. A composition consisting of the following components is ideal as a soil mixture:

• turf land;
• humus or peat;
• wood sawdust.

Work should begin at the end of March - mid-April

All ingredients are taken in equal parts and mixed well. It also makes sense to purchase ready-made soil and use it. As containers for growing seedlings, it is better to take individual cups or pots with a depth of at least 10-12cm.

When planting seeds, it is worth considering that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes quite a long time. To speed up the process, the seeds should be softened a little by heating them in warm water (50-55 0 C) for 10 minutes, and then left in a wet cotton cloth until they “peck”, making sure to retain moisture. Instead of fabric, you can use hydrogel, which lately is gaining popularity among gardeners.

After the seed has “opened” and the length of the sprout has reached 1-2 mm, it is important to harden the planting material. In this case, it is recommended to use one of two options:

1. Fill a deep container with snow or put ice in it, and sprouted seeds on top. Leave them like this for 5-6 hours.
2. Take a small piece of cotton cloth, moisten it with water and wring it out thoroughly. Place the hatched seeds in a damp cloth and place them in this form in the refrigerator for 5-7 hours.

When planting seeds, it is worth considering that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes quite a long time.

There is no need to worry that the sprouts will freeze and become unviable; on the contrary, such hardening is the best prevention against many diseases. These measures will allow the plant to strengthen and become less susceptible to weather conditions.

After hardening is completed, the germinated material can be planted. The seed is lowered into the prepared soil to a depth of 3-4 cm, and carefully sprinkled with earth on top. Water the plantings thoroughly, without overwatering, but the soil should be well moistened.

Next, before germination, you will need to cover the containers with the plantings with film, forming something like a greenhouse. In general, it is recommended to use simple plastic bags and rubber bands for this. Before the sprouts appear, the containers are left alone, making sure that the soil in them does not dry out. After the sprouts have appeared, the film is removed and the seedlings are placed in a permanent place. The following measures are recommended for caring for seedlings:

• timely watering. Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure that the soil is moist all the time and not allow it to dry out. However, since the crop is prone to root rot, overwatering should not be allowed, as this leads to the loss of seedlings;
• additional illumination. To prevent seedlings from stretching, it is important to extend daylight hours to 10-12 hours using a simple table lamp;

Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure the soil is moist all the time.

• Feeding. It is allowed to feed the seedlings a week after emergence. In the best possible way A solution of mullein in a ratio of 1 to 10 is suitable.

Seedlings are considered ready for planting if the plant already has 3-4 leaves, is fairly stocky and has a developed root system.

Of course, greenhouse conditions are better suited for growing watermelon. However, those gardeners who do not have the opportunity to plant a plant in a greenhouse get an excellent harvest in open ground.

To grow melons in open ground, choose the brightest and warmest place, preferably with sandy loam or sandy soil (ideal acidity 6-7). The predecessors of watermelons should not be allowed to be nightshade or melon plants, due to common pests.

To grow melons in open ground, choose the brightest and warmest place

The bed for watermelons is prepared in the fall. The earth is carefully dug up with half-rotted manure or humus. When digging, you must be careful about removing weed roots, since watermelon strongly dislikes such “neighbors.”

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the threat of day and night frosts has passed, the ground is carefully loosened and covered with black non-woven fabric or transparent film. Both options are possible, but many gardeners choose transparent film, as it has a number of advantages:

• reduces evaporation from the soil in hot weather;
• prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged during the rainy season;
• keeps fruits dry and clean during their growth period;
• the ground under the film is warm and moist.

After allowing the ground to warm up, small cross-shaped holes are made in the covering material for planting seedlings at intervals of approximately 140x70 cm.

A small hole is made under each hole, into which fertilizers (humus, ash) are added and watered thoroughly. The seedlings, having previously soaked the ground with abundant watering, are very carefully removed from the cups and planted, deepening the plant to the level of the root collar.

It is necessary to ensure that the soil is important, but not swampy

When deciding how to grow a watermelon in the country, do not forget that a plant growing in open ground needs appropriate care:

1. Timely watering. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is important, but not swampy. Watering is best done in the evening. Be careful not to let water get on the leaves of the plant.
2. Weeding. Watermelon strongly dislikes unwanted neighbors, so weed removal should be done regularly.
3. Monitoring the growth of lashes. They must be directed in one direction, making sure that they do not intertwine with each other as they grow.
4. Feeding. The first feeding is carried out a week after planting the seedlings in the ground. Follow the instructions for the fertilizer used. However, fertilizing should be stopped after fruit set in order to reduce the accumulation of nitrates in watermelon fruits to a minimum.
5. Regular inspection of plants for pests and diseases.
6. Pollination. If you do not rely on insects, then you need to pollinate manually using a special brush, which can be purchased at the store.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Before planting seedlings, the soil in the greenhouse must be prepared by carefully digging it up with humus. It is worth planting plants in a greenhouse only when the threat of frost has passed; it is optimal if the daytime air temperature reaches 20-25 0 C, and at night does not fall below 5 0 C.

Video about growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings is done in the same way as in the case of open ground, taking into account only that the distance between plants should be 70 cm, and row spacing - 50 cm. Otherwise, nothing can be changed.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse requires proper care of the plant. In addition to everything described above, it is necessary to pay more careful attention to pollination, since it can be difficult for insects to get inside. In addition, when growing watermelons in a greenhouse, in addition to the main list, it is necessary to carry out ventilation. On hot summer days, at temperatures above 30 0, be sure to open the windows or doors in the greenhouse.

IN recent years A huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and melons in your dacha, you need to put in a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help you realize your dream, the result of which will be a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a place - important stage planting a watermelon, which largely determines it further growth and yield:

• watermelon loves places with a large number light, in shading conditions it develops poorly and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to its highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable;
• Light sandy loam or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable for cultivating melons. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility; they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and rocky soils. However, to obtain large yields, well-cultivated areas are needed. To do this, in the fall, the future planting site is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m2 of plot area. Applying fertilizers before planting eliminates the need for regular fertilizing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruit. The variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose the plant most adapted to the growing conditions in your region. Watermelons can differ among themselves in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage of cultivation vegetable crops, especially during home cultivation, since in conditions of limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to select the best ones and discard small and damaged ones. Selection is usually carried out manually: seed material is scattered over smooth surface and are divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide the plants with good growth and high yield.

The largest seeds are selected for sowing

Warming up and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination and the formation of more female flowers, good growth and the development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The seed material is poured into a fabric bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then it is transferred for half an hour for disinfection into a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Remove the bag and allow excess moisture to drain.
4. The seeds are laid on damp sand, cotton or paper and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until the seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they cannot be soaked and should be planted directly into the ground.

Germinating watermelon seeds for planting open ground or for seedlings

Hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sudden temperature fluctuations and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seeds are hardened. Most often, seed material is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperature. For 1–2 days, the swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0±1°C with periodic stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6°C, then they should be kept warm for the same period of time at a temperature of 18–20°C. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum container height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). Prepared for planting soil mixture, into which sand is added in equal proportions, sod land and peat. Add to 5 liters of prepared soil:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with the mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, soil can be added to the pot.

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid to late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed at the most bright window, preferably southern.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly into open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is between 12–14°C and the soil has warmed to a depth of 10 cm. It is best to sow in the last ten days of May, at which time the likelihood of cold weather is significantly reduced. In cold soil, the germination time of seeds increases, as a result of which the seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. To plant a watermelon, prepare a hole with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, add into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tbsp.);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• Add additional sand to heavy soil and mix everything.

Sprouted watermelon seeds are sown in the prepared holes. Before this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured onto the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are placed at a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed is not watered after sowing. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to emerge to the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered generously as the soil dries, but not more than once every 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the sprouts appear, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants; in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1–2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct sowing in the ground is more resistant to stress, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

Seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they are provided with optimal conditions:

• The daytime temperature should be about 25°C, at night it is reduced to 20°C. Under such conditions, sprouts will appear in 7–10 days;
• The required daylight hours are at least 12 hours. Lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to illuminate the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have sprouted, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering the seedlings is carried out in several stages, avoiding water getting on the leaves;
• in the phase of 3 true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

If these rules are followed, the seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings into open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden bed, they are 30–35 days old, and the plant has formed at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. 3–4 days before planting in the ground, plants are kept on outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, water it abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, the plants are planted in a permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: watermelon along with earthen lump removed from the container, planted in a hole, then watered and covered with film. The root collar of the seedlings is not buried.

After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon is left open

Video: transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Vegetable growers often resort to the lunar calendar. Favorable dates for 2020:

• Planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will have the most positive effect on the growth of melons;
• in April, favorable times for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
• in May, it is recommended to plant watermelons on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
• landing garden crops undesirable on new and full moon days:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • May 7 and 22.

Planting pattern and depth

There are different schemes When planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering take up less space, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3–5 kg or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, take into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden early varieties placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties are planted according to a 2x2 m pattern; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger number - between the rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

Planting depth seed material in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the shallower the planting depth);
• type of soil (incorporation is deeper on light soils than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds are placed on a moist layer).

The seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root collar is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To guarantee a good harvest of melons and melons, you need not only to follow the planting rules, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• Watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds well. To create shelter, corn, peas or beans are planted around the area;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with plantings black radish. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• an excellent neighbor of watermelon is melon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of melon plants;
• watermelon grows well next to greenery plantings (parsley is an exception);
• Tomato phytoncides drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of melons grow very strongly, so it is better to plant crops next to them that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so you need to approach the choice of neighbors responsibly:

• melons grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the proximity of strawberries and representatives of nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• it extracts large amounts from the soil minerals, therefore, growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
• Watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agrotechnical technique is crop rotation. When alternating melons and melons at intervals of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced in the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in one field for more than 2 years in a row; the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strictly not recommended to plant melons in an area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting the watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

In a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can wooden box size 50x50x30 cm).
2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2:1. This will protect the soil from stagnant water.
3. After the third true leaf appears on the seedlings, the plant along with the earthen ball is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimal daytime temperature is 25–30°C, night temperature is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate; watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. The soil is fertilized every 2 weeks. Suitable for this liquid fertilizers for vegetables (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). Only fresh solution is prepared for irrigation.
7. At the stage of ovary formation, a second feeding is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2–3 weeks - a third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main shoot.
9. During the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are picked, the petals are removed and the female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom) are pollinated, touching the stamens to the pistils.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest a harvest of delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more as a hobby than a way to obtain delicious berries. In apartment conditions, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps on the balcony during the hot summer. A watermelon grown at home is unlikely to delight you with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the container to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine whether a watermelon needs watering, it is recommended to slightly lift the bucket with the plant, basing its weight on the soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, melon plants are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require staking. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides of the beds, a support at least 1.5 m high is dug in, and ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. TO tight ropes others are tied, which go down to the plants and serve as a support for the watermelon stems, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is secured to the stem of the plant or to the ground.
4. The main stem is tied in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, since female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of a chicken egg, the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under covering material

Cultivating watermelons under covering material has now become especially popular. The additional costs of film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in open ground;
• reduction of daily temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and retention of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to shorten the period of fruit ripening by 7–10 days. This method is especially relevant in short or humid summers and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the vines, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon - heat-loving crop, which requires a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Transcaucasian republics), watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the plant’s vegetation and rapid development of the fruit. After preparing for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough for the fruits to ripen, so watermelon seedlings are first grown.

In regions with moderately cold and harsh climates ( Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East) the watermelon harvest will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• Only early ripening varieties are chosen for planting;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in the conditions of the middle zone - also in open ground under a film (in the spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow wider, the plants are watered not at the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the row spacing;
• No more than 5–6 fruits are left on one plant to obtain large berries- 1–2 fruits, put a board under each to prevent them from rotting in cool conditions.

For cultivation in northern regions Only early ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar Baby
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhansky,
  • Top gun,
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkovsky,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Rose of the Southeast,
  • Skorospelka;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Creamstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Ultra early,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Siberian.

The average period of fruit ripening for the middle zone is about 70–80 days, the fruits are medium-sized – from 2 kg to 4–6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge on planting and caring for watermelons will definitely reward you with delicious and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose suitable variety and don’t be lazy to make a shelter.

If you follow certain rules, you can get a good harvest of watermelons in your garden or dacha. This crop requires long and warm summers. You can plant watermelons in open ground in all regions of Russia, with the exception of Siberia.

Caring for striped berries should include watering, thinning, fertilizing, loosening the soil and pruning. Watermelons are susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, olive spot, and rot. In case of infection, watermelons are treated with fungicidal preparations.

Features of growing different varieties

The plant is native to Africa. The culture belongs to the Pumpkin family. The stems of watermelon are thin and highly branched. They can be curly or creeping. They can reach 4 m in length. Young leaves have thick pile. Then they become rough, hard, and have an ovoid-triangular shape. In length from 7 to 23 cm. Inflorescences are female, male and hermaphroditic. They have a boat shape. The fruit is a berry with many seeds. The flesh is usually pink or red, and the outer shell is green (usually with light stripes).

There are many varieties of watermelon, but they are all conditionally divided into 2 types - woolly watermelon and African tsamma melon (wild species).

All varieties are divided into 3 groups.

Early ripening ones include:

• Skorik.
• Victoria.
• Ogonyok.
• Dolby.
• Stabolite.
• Jenny.

The following are considered mid-season:

• Ataman.
• Lazy-sided.
• Top gun.
• Atey.
• Dumara.

The later ones include:

• Spring.
• Icarus.

Currently, even varieties have been bred in which the fruits have a lemon taste and the flesh is yellow. There are also hybrids with black skin.

The following varieties can be grown in the Moscow region:

1. 1. Skorik. The fruit is in the form of a ball weighing no more than 3 kg.
2. 2. Light. The harvest is stable, but small. Typically the weight is up to 2 kg.
3. 3. Crimson Sweet. Translated as “raspberry sugar”. Among the early ripening varieties, the fruits are the largest - up to 8 kg.
4. 4. Lazy. Fruits up to 4 kg. They have a fairly long shelf life - up to 3 months. Thanks to this, you can enjoy this watermelon even on New Year’s Eve.

In Siberia, watermelons can only be grown in greenhouses. They must be strong. Polycarbonate or glass are suitable. In addition, another feature of growing watermelons in Siberia is that only the seedling method is used here, and seeds cannot be placed in open ground.

The most suitable varieties of watermelon for Siberia are the following:

1. 1. Chill. Withstands low temperatures well. The variety is early ripening. The growing season takes no more than 100 days. Fruits weigh up to 7 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet. Another advantage is the long shelf life of the berries - up to 1 year. It has good transportability.
2. 2. Ultra early. This variety is considered quite early ripening. Its growing season lasts up to 2.5 months. The pulp of the berries is sugary. They weigh 4-5 kg.
3. 3. Photon. This mid-early variety. It takes 80-100 days to ripen. The plant is not demanding on the soil, is resistant to diseases, the number of seeds in the berry is small, and the pulp is tender. The weight of the fetus is 3-6 kg.
4. 4. Charleston Gray. The variety is recognizable by the elongated shape of its large fruits. They weigh up to 10 kg. The culture is unpretentious in care.
5. 5. Siberian Lights. This variety was bred specifically for areas with harsh climatic conditions. The plant is resistant to low temperatures, lack of lighting and drought. The crop almost never suffers from fusarium. The bark of the berry is dark, without stripes. There are few seeds. Fruit weight - up to 4 kg.
6. 6. Siberian Giant. This is another variety that is bred for northern latitudes. Differs in frost resistance, large sizes(the fruit weighs up to 7 kg), long periods storage
7. 7. Ultra early ripening. The fruits are stored for a long time. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. The culture is unpretentious in care.

Landing rules

Watermelons can be propagated through seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for regions with warm climatic conditions.

Sowing seeds should be done in the spring as follows:

1. 1. Select a site. The soil on it should have time to warm up to 13 0 C.
2. 2. Soak the seeds in clean water until the sprouts hatch.
3. 3. Make holes in the area. They should be 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be 1 m.
4. 4. Place fertilizer in the hole. It is recommended to mix humus with 1 tsp. ammophoska and 1 tbsp. l. wood ash.
5. 5. Place the seeds there and sprinkle with substrate.

The first shoots usually appear within 1.5-2 weeks. If you plant watermelon seeds in open ground in regions with a cold climate, you must wait until the end of May or the beginning of June. You can also plant under film - a kind of greenhouse. In this case, the harvest is obtained much earlier. Some people prefer to cover the space between the holes with black film. This attracts the sun's rays and prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Another method is seedling. It is suitable for northern regions.

Landing is carried out as follows:

1. 1. Prepare the substrate correctly. It is recommended to mix peat, fine sand and turf soil.
2. 2. Select pots. They should be large and wide. You need to make holes at the bottom to drain excess water.
3. 3. Place watermelon seeds in special containers. This is recommended to be done in late spring. Keep containers in a warm place with a temperature of about 30 0 C.
4. 4. Care for sprouts. Water the seedlings periodically. It is necessary to ensure that water does not get on the seedlings. If necessary, you need to turn on additional lamps to improve lighting.
5. 5. Carry out hardening. This should be done 2 weeks before planting the sprouts in open ground. It is necessary that they get used to such conditions. For this purpose, a container with planting material should be taken outside or onto the balcony for 1-2 hours. Gradually you need to increase the interval - add an hour every day.

Mandatory preliminary preparation area before moving the seedlings into open ground. The soil should be well heated and loosened. The place should be chosen with protection from strong winds and drafts. Watermelon seedlings feel best in areas where legumes, alfalfa, and cabbage were previously grown. You should not choose a place where eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, bell pepper. Ideal option is sandy loam or sandy soil. It is necessary to add potassium compounds and superphosphate to it. If the soil is too heavy, then fine river sand is added to it.

Planting watermelon sprouts in open ground is as follows:

1. 1. Dig holes. The distance between them should be 1-1.3 m. 1.5-2 m should be left between the rows. It is recommended to place the sprouts in a checkerboard pattern.
2. 2. Deepen the seedlings into the holes and sprinkle with substrate. There should be shoots with leaves on top.
3. 3. Place sand near the seedlings. It will prevent diseases such as root rot.
4. 4. Water the seedlings.

In the future, all that remains is to take care of the culture.

Nuances of care

Watermelon care is as follows:

1. 1. Thinning the sprouts. As soon as they appear, some need to be pulled out - only the weak or sick ones. If healthy seedlings have sprouted too close to each other, they can be planted in different places.
2. 2. Watering. It should be timely and regular, once a week. For 1 sq. m of plot is required 3 liters of water. It should be poured not only at the root of the plant, but also in the places between the rows. It is best to use rain or settled water room temperature. During hot weather, it is necessary to water the crop twice a week. When the fruits begin to appear, watering must be gradually reduced, and 2 weeks before the berries are picked, it should be stopped completely.
3. 3. Loosening the soil. This must be done the next day after watering. By loosening the soil, the roots gain access to oxygen. At the same time, you can remove weeds. The grass is not dangerous for watermelon, since it root system quite branched. Weeding should be done carefully so as not to damage it.
4. 4. Feeding. The first time it should be carried out 2 weeks after planting the crop. To do this, use chicken droppings, mullein or ammonium nitrate. As for the last substance, you will need 20 g of product per 2 liters of water. This is enough for one bush. If you use mullein, you will need to prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:10. When using chicken manure, you need to make a solution in a ratio of 1:10. For each bucket of such solutions, it is necessary to add another 15 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of calcium chloride. The second time fertilizing should be done when the fruits begin to set. In this case, it is recommended to use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can mix 4 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate with 3 g double superphosphate. This is enough for 1 bush. Fertilizers are supposed to be applied in powder form, but then you need to water the crop. The mixture can be dissolved in water.
5. 5. Trimming. No more than 5-6 fruits should be left on one bush. They should be the largest and healthiest in appearance. The rest will have to be cut off, otherwise all the fruits will not be able to develop fully.

As for diseases, watermelon suffers from the following:

1. 1. Powdery mildew. A whitish appearance appears on the leaves. gray plaque.
2. 2. Peronosporosis. Also called downy mildew. Not only a gray coating appears on the leaves, but also yellow spots.
3. 3. Anthracnose. Pink-yellow pads form on the leaves.
4. 4. Olive spot. Irregular spots appear on leaves and stems. The latter also become corrugated.
5. 5. Bacteriosis. Oily patches appear on leaves and stems.
6. 6. Rot. It comes in root, black, white and gray. The cause is a fungus.
7. 7. Cucumber mosaic. The disease cannot be cured. A peculiar pattern appears on the leaves.

Although watermelon is considered an unpretentious crop, with improper care such diseases develop quite quickly. Fungicides control fungal infections. The plant cannot be saved from bacterial and viral infections. Among the insects that are dangerous to watermelon are cutworms, wireworms and melon aphids. Insecticides help with them.

• Go to the section table of contents: Gardener's corner: growing vegetables

Selecting a location and preparing land for a watermelon

You need to choose a place for mini-melons in the garden in the fall. The best predecessors of watermelons are perennial grasses, winter wheat, corn for silage, annual legumes, as well as onions, cabbage or potatoes. Perennial grasses, as a predecessor, help increase watermelon productivity even more than natural fallow soil. Sowing perennial grasses well restores soil fertility, promoting greater accumulation of mobile forms of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Perennial grasses also help prevent plant diseases from Fusarium wilt and other diseases, which ultimately ensures a high yield of watermelons.

But growing watermelons after nightshade and pumpkin crops is not recommended. And in order to avoid the accumulation of fusarium and other pathogens in the soil as much as possible, it is necessary to strictly observe crop rotation. You can return the watermelon to its original planting site no earlier than after 7-8 years.

To sow watermelons, you need to choose areas that are well lit and heated by the sun. The most favorable for watermelon are light sandy and sandy loam soils, and the optimal soil acidity for watermelons should be in the range of 6.5-7.0. It is most convenient to grow watermelons in holes. To obtain good harvests, two buckets of humus from compost or perennial humus (from chicken droppings or cow manure) and sand (especially if the soil on the site is heavy) must be added to each hole. By mixing the components in the hole directly on the surface of the soil, you can leave everything like this without digging until spring. It should be noted that in order to obtain high yield watermelons important element nutrition is magnesium. Therefore, in the fall, it is also recommended to apply magnesium fertilizer at the rate of 50 g of active magnesium per 10 m².

In the spring, when it is already warm enough, it is necessary to dig deep or plow the designated areas for holes with a cultivator, while trying to walk as little as possible around the melon patch so as not to compact the soil. Deep digging of the earth to a depth of 30 cm creates best conditions for root development. At the same time, holes with a diameter of about a meter are formed, and the free space between the edges of adjacent holes should be within 1.5-2 meters.

At the same time for 1 hole or 1 square. meter of bed (for a different type of planting) you should add 1 glass of wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. And if manure or compost has not been added to the soil since the fall, then a few days before planting the seedlings, you must add 2 buckets of rotted manure to each hole. After completing all preparatory work It is advisable to cover the bed with plastic film to warm the soil with sunlight, which will create the most optimal hydrothermal conditions for the roots of the seedlings at the time of planting.

It should be remembered that doses mineral fertilizers, like organic ones, need to be adjusted depending on the content of the corresponding nutrient in the soil on your site. This is especially true for nitrogen, since its excess increases the amount of nitrates in the product, and as a result, it deteriorates. taste qualities and keeping quality of fruits. Note that the most important biological feature of watermelon is the genetic tendency to accumulate large amounts of nitrates in its fruits (with unbalanced and excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers). Therefore, if high doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers are used, fruits can also become hazardous to health.

The seeds are planted one at a time to a depth of 2-3 cm, after which we cover them with glass or polyethylene so that a dry crust does not form on the surface, which interferes with the appearance of the sprout. If there is an excess of seed material, you can plant 2 seeds in one cup: one may not sprout, and if both sprout, then the weaker or defective one must be cut off (you cannot pull it out so as not to damage the roots of the remaining plant). Sprouts usually appear from the ground after 3-4 days. Filming protective film and put it on a pot in a sunny place.

Watermelon comes from the deserts of southern Africa, which is why it is highly resistant to heat, dry air, and poor soils. Of all the melons, it is the least picky about soil quality. On the contrary, it works best on sandy loam steppe chernozems, light soils with good water permeability. But its advantages are dictated by the growing conditions: a lot of sun, light soil, dry air, soil moisture during the period of cane growth, flowering, and ovary formation.

Agricultural technology

Humidity environment Perhaps the most difficult thing for melon growers to overcome is to grow fruits of the proper quality.

Video about growing watermelon

You can protect from cold weather and prevent excessive dryness of the soil by proper watering. But if you live in a wet climate, then you will have to work hard to grow a good striped fruit. You can't do without a greenhouse. Think in advance about how you will protect your crops from crows. Get also early and delicious varieties, preferably local selection. Now let’s look at everything in more detail to understand how to grow watermelons in the country.

Take care of the quality of the soil in advance, in the fall of the year preceding planting. Especially if your future melon plant is located where predominantly heavy soils predominate: loam or peat swampy soils. It is necessary to dig up the ground well, while simultaneously removing the roots of the weeds. It’s best even for two bayonets of a shovel. Mix heavy soil with sand at the rate of two buckets per square meter. In this way, we bring the lightness and water permeability of the soil into line with the requirements of melon and melon farming technology. It is advisable to take gray river sand; red construction sand contains a lot of iron, which can excessively oxidize the earth.

In the photo there is a watermelon

Speaking of acidity: growing watermelons works best on a substrate with a neutral acidity reaction. You can find out what soil acidity you have either by measuring it with a Ph indicator or Ph meter, or by looking at the plants growing in your garden plot. The first case, of course, gives more accurate results. To do this, purchase an indicator at a pharmacy or chemical store (a universal indicator is best). Or buy a Ph-meter device there. Take soil from the site where the future melon plant will be planted. Dilute it with water, look at the color of the indicator or the readings of the device.

Indicator plants will tell you approximately the condition of the soil in your area. For example, chamomile, wheatgrass, bindweed, cornflowers and clover prefer to grow in soils with neutral acidity. Horsetails, plantains, and mosses will tell us that the environment is too acidic. On the contrary, poppy seeds and mustard indicate an alkaline reaction of the earth.

Soil acidity is eliminated by liming - adding a lime solution to the soil; it is obtained by mixing whitewash lime with water. Alkaline ones lead to a neutral indicator by introducing acidifying agents: peat, pine needles, softwood sawdust. Sowing legumes well restores normal soil acidity.

Photo of a watermelon in the garden

We also remember that it is extremely undesirable to plant watermelons on the site of the former growth of cucumbers and other melons: pumpkins or melons. Such precautions are associated with the threat of introducing diseases: fusarium (colloquially wilting of leaves), peronospora (downy mildew). Also, you can’t plant it after nightshades. Crop rotation for these crops should reach 5-6 years. The optimal predecessor would be corn, sunflower, legumes: beans, peas, lupine. Also, watermelon fruits fill well when sown after perennial cereal crops.

We fertilize the soil at the same time we dug it, in the fall. Along with deep mixing of the soil layers, we add a standard set of macroelements: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium. Superphosphates are added in an amount of thirty grams per square meter. Potassium sulfate is applied at a concentration of twenty grams per meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are added in extremely small doses in the fall.

It is better to apply them in the spring and preferably together with organic fertilizers. Otherwise, you risk a sharp increase in the nitrate content in your fruits. High yields are promoted by the presence of magnesium in the soil. We also add microelements along with autumn digging. It is best to use complex liquid mineral supplements containing molybdenum, iron, selenium, and manganese that are immediately necessary for melons.

Pay attention to organic fertilizers, especially those containing humic acids or effective microorganisms. Population of the soil with beneficial microflora will lead to a sharp jump in the absorption of further mineral fertilizers by the plants. This will significantly affect the yield of future melons.

The greatest threat to northern watermelon growing is late spring frosts. There are several ways to avoid this.

Firstly, you can grow seedlings. The advantage of this method is that it saves time. When the threat of frost has passed, we already plant young seedlings that have formed several leaves. The downside is that watermelons have a very delicate root system. They really don’t like transplantation. It is ideal to grow them in peat pots, then the plant is planted without removing it from the pot, which is gradually dissolved by the soil, providing additional feeding.

But even with this type of planting, the seedlings do not grow for some time, being under stress, inferior to the sown ones. In addition, planted watermelons are more tender and painful compared to ground watermelons, and are more susceptible to various fungal summer attacks.

Photo of watermelon

Secondly, spring sowing under cover. This can be either a film greenhouse or a full-fledged greenhouse. A greenhouse is most often used only for frost protection. When the watermelon vines reach a large length, the cover is removed in the summer. How to grow watermelon in a greenhouse? To save space, the lashes are launched vertically. Plants cling to vertical supports with their tendrils.

It is important to keep greenhouses with flowering plants open to allow insects access. When the fruits reach the size of an orange, they need to be placed in nets and suspended from transverse greenhouse supports. Greenhouses are advisable where there are humid, cloudy summers. The microclimate created inside by combining dry air with regular watering will be ideal for minke whales.

If you are worried about spring frosts. And the summer promises to be hot and relatively dry, then there is no reason to build a greenhouse. It is enough to make do with temporary greenhouse shelters.

Or you can combine these two methods. Sow directly into the ground and speed up ripening, avoiding the threat of spring frosts. This is the so-called Korean ridge. We take a wide, very dense transparent film. We make small holes, no more than five centimeters in diameter. The perforation step is half a meter in a row. Leave a distance between rows of two meters. We prepare the ground. It is advisable to clean it well of weed roots. Fertilize well and water. At a distance of two meters from each other we make small earthen ramparts, about a third of a meter high.

Watermelon in the photo

To make summer maintenance even easier, we bury an irrigation system in the shafts. This can be a simple perforated hose or special drip tapes designed to continuously receive moisture from each bush.

We lay the film so that the rows with holes lie along the ridges of the earthen ramparts. Add some drops around the edges. We plant two pre-soaked seeds in the holes. We close each hole with a glass jar with the neck down, pressing it lightly into the soil. It will create greenhouse conditions for seed germination. You can also use large plastic bottles with the neck cut off, bottom up. Under the film, the soil will quickly warm up in the spring, without cooling down at night and without losing moisture. Earthen ramparts provide maximum heating under the film.

The seeds will sprout quickly; we remove the weaker sprout from the two. Soon they will be cramped under the can shelter. It is best to calculate the sowing time so that it is one month ahead of the average date of the last spring frost in your area. Then, as soon as the seedling has formed a sufficient green mass, you can already remove the jar cover without fear of the threat of frostbite on the leaves. Most often this is the last ten days of April.

Closer to June, not only watermelons begin to grow vigorously, but also the weeds that remained under the film. To avoid breaking through the film and disturbing the soil microclimate, we fill all row spaces with a large layer of mulch: pine needles, sawdust, straw. Without admission sunlight the weeds will wither away. And the soil will warm up normally even under a large layer of mulching material.

We produce all fertilizers in liquid form, pouring everything into the holes from which our watermelon vines grow. By organizing an irrigation system in the spring, we deprive ourselves of even this need; everything is delivered directly to the roots. Sometimes you can do without a ridge and level the soil. Then care becomes even easier, although spring warming will be less.

Care

Formation is important, especially given the short northern summer. After forming the sixth leaf, pinch the lash. This stimulates flowering. In the spring we feed with equal amounts of phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers. When the fruit reaches the size of an orange, we exclude nitrogen fertilizers and increase the proportion of potassium fertilizers and microelements. To enhance fruit growth, we pinch the vine with several leaves above it.

We protect melons from fungal diseases. Proper watering for these purposes will be quite sufficient. That is, pour at the root, do not wet the leaves. It is also advisable to exclude contact of the lashes with the ground and cover it with mulch. Then the plant will not pick up spores stored on the ground.

We water our melons regularly and generously. From the emergence of seedlings, throughout the entire time the watermelon grows. When pouring fruits, reduce watering, otherwise they may crack. We protect the future harvest from birds, especially from crows. Often left unattended, melons can lose their entire harvest in just a few minutes. Place scarecrows or hide fruits from birds. You can bury them with earth. Can be stored in boxes or other containers. When our leg begins to dry out striped berry, this will mean that it is ripe. It can be torn off.

Now a few words about apartment melon growing.

Video about watermelons on the windowsill

1. Take a planting container the size of a bucket.
2. We prepare the substrate. Three equal parts of meadow humus, manure humus, sand. Deoxidize with a small amount of lime.
3. We water with complex fertilizers: organic and inorganic, containing microelements.
4. Sow three or four seeds. We water and wait for the shoots to appear.
5. We leave the strongest sprout.
6. A support for the future stem, about a meter, is stuck into the bucket.
7. When the plant's lash forms the fifth or sixth leaf, pinch it off
8. When daylight hours are shorter than 12 hours, artificial lighting is used
9. We pollinate artificially.
10. We leave no more than two fruits on each plant.
11. When the fruits reach size chicken egg, put them in nets and tie them to a support.
12. We fertilize and water the same as for garden growing.

Photo of growing watermelon on the balcony

Thanks to artificial lighting You can grow striped sweets at home any time, be it in summer or winter. Homemade watermelons are small but thin-skinned.