Device for installing socket boxes. Simple ways to install socket boxes. The eternal question: install socket boxes before or after plastering
An auxiliary but integral element of the electrical system are socket boxes. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities to accommodate hidden wiring. It allows you to hide wires and contacts not only of sockets, but also of switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, heated floor). Correct installation guarantees reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic - a dielectric material, it also guarantees additional insulation between it and the wall.
Preparatory activities imply not only taking a number of pre-installation actions, but also purchasing certain materials and tools in advance. To work you will need:
- alabaster/plaster;
- primer;
- putty knife;
- hammer/drill;
- drill/drill 8 mm thick;
- diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket box is standard);
- special spatula or chisel + hammer;
- building level;
- marker/pencil;
- ruler/hard tape measure;
- indicator screwdriver;
- sandpaper;
- cable/wire products;
- the electrical device itself (if it is a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.
Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work necessary by marking the area where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of the future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on the concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If you plan to install a block, then the center of the outermost fixture is initially marked on the surface. A line is subsequently drawn through it along the level, equal to length the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the remaining electrical installation products.
Drilling holes for socket boxes
It is best to use a hammer drill for this. Using it, you will need to drill a hole in the intended center by placing the drill. Afterwards, the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked outline appears, the drill is removed from the equipment by unscrewing the bolt. Next, the crown is put on the hammer again, on which a mark must be made indicating the depth to which it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle is changed again. This time, a spatula is put on the hammer and the excess concrete is knocked out. If it is not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and hammer are used.
In situations where there is neither a hammer drill nor a drill available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating sections that have different directions in the marking areas. Afterwards, pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.
Guide to installing socket boxes in the wall
Having drilled a hole and punched grooves into it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed with direct electrical installation. For this purpose, you should place a socket box in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly secured and not tilted at all. Then you need to insert the wires supplying the future device into the hole located in the background.
The next goal is to securely fasten the box to the wall:
- clean the base from dust;
- treat the hole with a primer, which will ensure durability;
- dilute the plaster/putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of construction/medical plaster, it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy, homogeneous consistency is formed);
- Apply the composition inside the hole with a spatula;
- put the socket box in the socket and press it into the solution (it should come out concrete surface through the slots).
It is important to carry out installation extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in literally 2-3 minutes. The product must be aligned so that the screws are horizontal to the floor and the box is completely recessed into the base. Check for correctness with a level applied diagonally to the device. It cannot be moved in the future: the plaster/alabaster must harden completely. Excess that comes out is removed.
If, upon completion of the work, there are gaps, chips, or potholes in the concrete for the socket box, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled using sandpaper. Final stage - finishing optional (wallpapering, painting, etc.).
Possible mistakes
Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with unpleasant consequences. The most common problem is the product falling out or poor fixation in the wall. If this happens, you can cope with the problem in 2 ways:
- screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket box;
- applying glue gun, securely secure the box in the slot.
Also common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket/switch. Hazardous potential exists on the device housing, which could lead to short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket box should not interfere at all future design, especially from the side of the spacer legs.
1. Switches and socket boxes can be installed anywhere. The main thing is to comply with one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be at least 1 m from the selected installation point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet room, electrical devices cannot be installed at all due to danger.
2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum/alabaster only for small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.
3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when the time will come repair contacts.
4. If we are talking about installing 1-2 socket boxes, then buying a diamond crown will be a pointless waste of money. It would be more appropriate to replace it with attachments equipped with pobedit teeth, or even use a grinder with a disc.
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In this article we will examine in detail the question of how to install socket box on concrete. Having in hand well-written instructions, supplemented detailed photos and comments from a specialist, resolving this issue will not pose any difficulties for you. is the foundation of installation
electrical wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be given special attention.
Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:
- Socket boxes for concrete - used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.The installation of the socket box is carried out in a pre-prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of plaster or alabaster.
- Socket boxes for plasterboard - used for installation in plasterboard, chipboard, various kinds plywood, SML sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket box using the spacer tabs available on it into a pre-prepared hole. You can read the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.
In this article, we will examine in detail how socket boxes are installed on concrete.
Making the markings
Before installing the socket box, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.
Some standards that electricians often use are listed below:
- sockets in living rooms- 30 centimeters from the clean floor (the so-called “Euro standard”);
- sockets above kitchen countertop- 110-120 centimeters;
- socket above washing machine- 1 meter;
- switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.
However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you wish, according to your taste and discretion.
Let's start installation. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we add +5 centimeters to our dimensions for screed and laminate (linoleum).
For the switch, you can use the hand measuring technique. Approach the place of planned installation, place your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take the average arm length.
Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the socket box. If you plan to install the switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge; 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.
Now, mark all the dimensions with a pencil on the wall.
The marking is done.
Making a hole for the socket box
All concrete sockets are mounted into the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways in which it can be made. We will look at three of the simplest and most effective.
Method 1. Crown for concrete sockets
The main device for making holes for socket boxes in concrete is a concrete and brick drill bit with a diameter of 70 millimeters.
The standard diameter of the socket is 67 millimeters; some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.
Rice. Crown for socket boxes on concrete
According to the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for socket boxes for concrete has Pobedit teeth, with which it cuts a circle; in the middle there is a Pobedit drill for centering. The crown is installed on a hammer drill or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with impact, a hole is made.
We move the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.
The crown should be completely recessed into the wall.
To facilitate the drilling process, you can first, in the center of the marking of the future socket box, drill a centering hole with an ordinary Pobedit drill, in this case it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.
We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using an impact bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.
We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket box, in which we used a crown for socket boxes for concrete. Let's consider the following method.
Method 2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill
In order to use this method, the first thing you need to do is outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.
Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will be to clean the hole from the wall elements later.
Now, it's up to a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit. We bring the hole to the required size.
Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)
This method is the fastest of all of the above, but also the dustiest. I don’t think there’s much need to explain its meaning. It is particularly suitable, for example, when socket boxes are required to be installed in a concrete wall.
The execution process is simple, we take an angle grinder (angle grinder) and off we go.
We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined socket box. Be careful with the wire.
After everything is cut, we knock out the squares from the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket box, so when using this method, be prepared to knock a little.
We adjust the hole to the size of the socket box
After making the hole, we check how the socket box fits into it. Since the diameter of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.
The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket box falls into it a little, about 4-5 millimeters. This reserve is necessary because, in addition to the socket box itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be placed inside the hole, and some space will also be needed for bending the wire entering the socket box.
To make the following stages of work easier after installing the socket box, I recommend cutting off the edges of the made hole. This action can be performed using a knife. Due to the manipulations we have performed, the socket box will be sunk into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform an ideal installation of a socket or switch by maximally pressing its metal mounting, and therefore the plastic decorative frame to Wall. As a rule, a non-recessed socket skirt can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.
Now, you need to insert the wire into the socket box; to do this, we make a small groove for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a groove using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bit. Soft material You can even chop walls with a chisel. In our example, this is what is used.
The strobe is ready.
The wire should be easy to install without interfering with the electrical outlet.
Now, turn the socket box over. On its back we see specially prepared slots for the wire.
Select the one you need and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to run the wire from the back of the socket box; this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and protect the wire from damage.
The hole is made.
We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.
Nothing should interfere and let me remind you, there should be a reserve of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.
Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to preparing the gypsum solution.
Preparation of gypsum solution
To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.
For our purposes you can use:
- building gypsum
- medical plaster
- alabaster
Pour a small amount of gypsum into a container.
You should get a homogeneous, creamy mixture of medium thickness.
The resulting solution has a very short time for use; literally after 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will no longer be suitable for work.
Installation of a socket box
Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket box in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be thoroughly moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and washes away fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed for 2-3 minutes.
We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should well cover the back wall of the socket box, squeezing out from the slots of the holes.
We align it so that the screws are located horizontally to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation depth by placing a level with the flat side to the wall diagonally across the socket box. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with installing the socket or switch.
The main fixation has been completed, so we do not move the glass of the socket box anymore, otherwise the solution will not set and the socket box will not be properly fixed.
Now, we make additional fixation by placing the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket box. You need to not just coat the solution around, but rather put it in the gaps.
Now, you can smear it around.
The socket box is installed.
We wait for it to dry completely and only then remove the excess solution that got inside the socket. When dry, it separates well from the plastic.
I would like to note that the installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is carried out similarly to the example discussed. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with a grinder (angle grinder), method 3.
The next step is, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.
If you are interested in more detailed description connections and installations various elements electrical wiring (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including backlit, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom) you might be interested in.
How to install a double socket box
To install two sockets in one frame, the installation of two socket boxes is required. Let's take a closer look at how it's done this type installation.
Docking with each other is done using a connector (butterfly).
There are special grooves on the side of the socket boxes into which they are inserted.
In this way you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.
For our example, we only need two. We make markings. We measure the distance from the floor.
Using a level, draw an even horizontal strip at the desired height.
Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.
The difference from installing a single socket box is that after making the hole, you need to connect the two holes to each other. This is done so that the connector connecting the two socket boxes fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.
After making the holes, just as in the example of installing a single socket box, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the groove.
The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to a single socket box.
The last point that is worth paying special attention to is the strict approach to aligning them horizontally when fixed with plaster. plant on gypsum mortar you only need a level than more quantity socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.
The installation of various electrical wiring elements is described in as detailed and colorful a manner as possible.
To complete the work we used:
Material
- plaster, alabaster
- socket box
Installation mounting boxes, or socket boxes, are effective solution for reliable and aesthetic installation of sockets, switches, and other elements of the home electrical network. Not only the long service life of the internal electrical system, but also the safety of your family depends on the quality of fixation of the mounting boxes. The following recommendations will help you perform high-quality and reliable installation of these elements.
Preparing for work
The installation of socket boxes is carried out upon completion (the geometry of the walls must be finally established). Drilling of sockets (holes) for mounting boxes is carried out at the stage for electrical wiring, and the layout of the elements must already be applied to the surface of the walls.
IMPORTANT: It is advisable to install socket boxes after cutting the grooves, since mechanical impact on the box after its fixation (cutting a channel for the wire) can seriously impair the reliability of its fastening.
Group placement of mounting boxes
For group placement of elements, use special mounting boxes for several modules (mechanisms), or boxes with clamps for group placement.
Performing markup
Since the schematic marking of the position of the electrical network elements is already applied to the walls (see above), you just need to correctly mark the centers of the future installation holes, since the positioning of the crown in all cases is done using a centering drill.
Mounting boxes very often have a small depression or bulge in the center of the bottom (due to technological features manufacturing of a plastic case). Using an awl, pierce the body in this place (in the center of the bottom).
In our example, it is necessary to install two plastic electrical boxes to subsequently accommodate a group of two socket modules. Assemble a group by connecting required quantity boxes
Place the electrical boxes in the marked area and align them using a small . Then, using an awl, mark the centers of the mounting holes.
Using a level, draw a reference horizontal axis through the marked centers and, if necessary, adjust their position. The central axis will be needed later - for precise positioning of the boxes in the niche.
Drilling holes for mounting boxes
The technique for making holes for installing the electrical box varies depending on the type of base wall finish. For a standard socket box (diameter 64 mm and depth 40 mm), crowns with a diameter of 68 mm and a working part length of 60 mm are used. The gap between the edge of the installation niche and the body of the box is necessary for reliable fixation of the socket box using a layer of gypsum mixture.
IMPORTANT: Drilling of installation holes is carried out exclusively in non-impact mode. The use of perforation can damage the tool and equipment.
Installation in tongue-and-groove slabs
To drill holes in tongue-and-groove (gypsum fiber) slabs, tungsten carbide coated crowns are used.
Attach a pilot drill or drill bit to the crown. The shanks of such crowns are usually made in the form of a hexagon. Install the bit into a drill or screwdriver and securely fix it with a key or self-clamping chuck. When using hammer drills (which are most often equipped with cartridges SDS plus) it is necessary to use an adapter or a replaceable self-clamping chuck.
Install the centering drill of the crown into the previously marked center of the hole, and then drill its outline in accordance with the depth of the socket used. To accurately adhere to the required drilling depth, place a mark on the body of the crown, or stick a small strip of masking tape.
Center holes can be pre-drilled to desired depth with a regular drill or a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm and, after that, start drilling the main contour of the socket with a crown.
Do not forget that the depth of the installation niche should be slightly greater than the depth of the socket box (about 5 mm) - for its convenient positioning. If you need to perform switching of current-carrying lines directly in the body of the installation box, you should use installation boxes with a depth of 60 mm. The depth of the installation socket (hole), in this case, will also increase.
IMPORTANT: When making holes, take into account the thickness of the wall, as well as the location of the electrical systems on its opposite side.
If necessary (to perform group installation of boxes), drill the remaining holes in the group. After all the holes are made, using a hammer and chisel, or a hammer drill equipped with a spatula, carefully split and dismantle the remaining material inside the drilled niche outline, as well as the corners separating the installation holes so that the edges of the niche are straight and even. Level the bottom of the installation niche.
Remove any debris and dust the hole using a small brush or a vacuum cleaner.
Installation in wood, plywood, chipboard and plasterboard
Drilling holes is done in a similar way, but using serrated crowns. GKL sheets can also be drilled using a tungsten carbide-coated crown.
Installation in concrete and brick
The greatest difficulty is drilling installation sockets in brick and concrete walls. High-quality carbide toothed bits (for brick) and diamond-coated bits (for concrete) are used.
With the help of high-quality crowns you can perform straight drilling concrete and brick. However, such equipment is very expensive. In order to facilitate the performance of work using equipment of average quality, extending its service life, the following drilling technique is used:
Having previously marked the centers of the installation holes, drill them to the required depth using a hammer drill equipped with a carbide drill (impact drilling mode is used).
Using a crown with a centering drill installed, mark the outline of the future hole by drilling the wall to a shallow depth (in drilling mode without impact).
IMPORTANT: When working with hammer drills, take into account the configuration and diameter of the bit shank. Serrated carbide bits are usually available with an SDS plus shank (suitable for most rotary hammer chucks). To use hex shank bits, you will need a chuck tool or adapter.
Using a drill, drill several holes along the contour of the installation niche. As a rule, 8 holes are sufficient; if the material is too hard, 12 holes can be used.
When installing boxes in a group, first, using a crown, you should mark the contour of each of the future holes, and then drill additional holes along each contour.
Once all the holes are made, use a hole saw to drill out the sockets to the desired depth. Then, using a hammer and chisel, or a hammer drill with a spatula, remove all the material inside the contour of the installation niche, align its edges and bottom. If you have made a sufficiently large number of holes along the contour, you can select material from the niche immediately, without using a crown, which, in this case, is used, in fact, only for marking contours.
Remove fragments of material from inside the niche contour and dust the installation area.
Preparing to attach mounting boxes
Before fixing, it is necessary to prime the installation socket and allow it to dry completely (see instructions).
In installation boxes, it is necessary to remove the plugs at the cable entry points. To ensure that, at the stage of securing the box, the gypsum mixture is not squeezed out through the hole for the wire, it can be sealed on the outside with masking tape.
IMPORTANT: When using groups, in some cases, it is necessary to additionally remove the side plugs to ensure the routing of the wire in the group clamp body.
Securing boxes
Fixation in monolithic walls
Fixing installation mounting boxes in monolithic walls (blocks, brick, concrete, etc.) is most often done using gypsum plaster mixture or alabaster.
Prepare a small portion of the mixture. It is better to prepare a smaller amount of material rather than throw it away. If the amount of mixture is not enough to completely seal all cavities and level the surface, final sealing can be done at the stage of sealing the grooves. The material should be prepared to the thickest possible consistency, reminiscent of plasticine.
Apply a layer of the mixture about 5-7 mm thick to the edges and bottom of the installation socket.
Install the box or assembled group into the installation niche. Remove the squeezed out excess mixture. Using a rule segment or building level, recess the mounting boxes into the niche flush with the surface of the walls. Align the boxes horizontally using the center center line drawn during the marking step.
Use a small spatula to fill all cavities and level the plaster material.
After the layer has hardened a little, repeat the leveling, removing all excess mortar from the wall surface - the mortar should remain only within the installation niche. Be sure to remove the mortar from the slots of the mounting bolts using a knife or awl.
Carefully cut and remove the tape, clean the solution from the place where the cable enters the socket box body (at the groove).
IMPORTANT: Mounting boxes must be located strictly in the plane of the walls. They can be slightly recessed into the niche, but under no circumstances should they protrude beyond its limits, otherwise their edges will have to be cut off.
If you need to perform additional fixation of the mounting boxes, so that their edges do not protrude from the niche beyond the plane of the wall (in the case of installing groups of three or more elements), use strip sections secured to the wall using self-tapping screws.
After the mixture has completely dried, you can begin installing the cable and sealing the grooves.
Fixation in sheet materials
For fastening to sheet materials (plywood, gypsum board, chipboard, etc.), mounting boxes with special side clamps are used.
They are installed in the niche, after which the clamp screws are tightened with a screwdriver. In this case, the clamp is fixed with reverse side sheet material.
After fixation is completed, the voids in the niche are filled plaster mixture. To prevent strain cracking of the outer coating, it should be reinforced plaster layer painting plastic mesh.
Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.
Yesterday I spent the whole day replacing sockets and switches in the apartment. Initially they were installed external ( open installation) and were mounted on a wooden base. Herself copper wires with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm, both for lighting and socket lines. Therefore, it was decided to simply replace the sockets and switches with new ones - hidden installation.
To do this, it was necessary to remove (dismantle) the old sockets and switches and install socket boxes. This is what I would like to dwell on in more detail.
In this article I will clearly show how to independently install socket boxes in a concrete wall. After all, an incorrectly installed socket box will ultimately lead to the socket or switch falling out of the socket, which can lead to serious consequences in terms of.
By the way, one of my friends suggested his own method - read about it.
The new type of socket boxes are made of plastic. The problem described above does not exist in them.
Installing socket boxes in a concrete wall
To install a socket box in a concrete or brick wall I use a hammer drill with a special crown with a diameter of 68 (mm) with a Pobedit central drill and Pobedit teeth.
Before you begin dismantling the old outlet, you must turn off the circuit breaker that powers the outlet. In our case this is group 2.
Then we check again for the presence of voltage in the outlet.
There is no voltage at the outlet. Now you can start dismantling it. Unscrew the 2 screws using a screwdriver and remove the top cover of the socket.
Then unscrew the 2 screws securing the power wires and disconnect them from the outlet.
The wires were disconnected, all that remained was to unscrew the 2 screws that secure the socket to the wooden base.
Filming old socket. appears before us wooden base, which is attached to the concrete wall using a dowel.
Using pliers and a screwdriver, remove the wooden base and turn out the dowel.
I'll add a video a little later this process. In order not to miss this event, subscribe to receive news from my website in the right column of the site or at the end of this article.
We remove the remaining concrete in the hole using a hammer and chisel.
When will the notorious leak from wet walls appear faster, albeit very theoretically - with bare concrete, or with plastic?
Already recent years 10 when installing socket boxes in reinforced concrete walls, I use only a 68 mm diamond core bit. I use it ONLY WITHOUT WATER and of course without shock. Previously, I tried to drill with a hammer drill without impact, but I realized that a drill is better suited for this, because... the vibration of the hammer drill was often the reason for the bit jamming in the concrete. The rebar is sawed with a bang and the neighbors are happy.
My opinion: drilling socket boxes in a concrete wall with the help of powerful hammer drills and such crowns is barbaric! Vibration kills the walls of the house, the hands of the master and the nerves of the neighbors. And if such a crown stumbles upon M10 reinforcement, then what will happen to its teeth? It’s already been invented a long time ago I use a diamond bit for this purpose, I’ve been using it for 10 years, it drills everything without noise and the neighbors don’t complain.
Good day, I hope you can help me with some advice. Preamble: there was an old Soviet unit (socket and 2 switches), it was decided to replace it with a modern one, I bought a similar BK2VR-005A, it also has a metal socket box, after dismantling the old filling I realized that it would not be possible to limit myself to installing a new one in the old socket box, having dismantled the old socket box I discovered that the wall has a cavity behind the socket box, what advice can you give regarding the application of a metal socket box rather than a plastic one? As far as I know, adhesion with metal is worse than with plastic.
A socket is not only a mandatory functional element of electrical wiring, used to connect electrical household appliances, but also significant detail interior
Trouble-free operation of the outlet, as well as its neat appearance to a large extent depend on how competently the installation was performed, right? To do correct installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that are present in this work, one of which is correct installation socket boxes.
Have you never installed a socket box and are afraid of making mistakes? We will help you understand all the features - the article discusses in detail the types of installation boxes and the intricacies of installing each of them.
Attention is also paid to the installation of socket boxes in common types of bases - concrete, plasterboard, tiled wall. Material added clear photos and useful videos.
Modern sockets both in appearance and in the method of installation they differ significantly from those installed in houses of the Soviet era.
If previously they were simply embedded in the wall without the possibility of replacement, today installing them, and if necessary, is not particularly difficult.
And all this thanks to the socket box, which, in fact, is a box that securely holds the socket in its depths and at the same time ensures its fire safety.
Socket boxes come in different shapes and sizes, differ in materials of manufacture and installation method, so before you buy, you need to understand their types.
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Installation of a socket box in a concrete base
If you have already decided where you will have sockets, you can start installation work, which consist of several stages.
Before installing the socket box in concrete, markings are made, then a hole is made in the wall and a gypsum solution is prepared.
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