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If an onion feather begins to turn yellow, what should you do? The onions in the garden are turning yellow. Watering is not carried out according to the rules, or not in full

The onions are turning yellow, what to water and feed with

Yellowing of onion leaves: causes and signs of their manifestation

With normal growth and development, onion stems begin to wilt in August and September, indicating that the bulbs are ready for harvest.

If the feathers turn yellow in spring or early summer, this is a sign of improper development of the crop. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon:

• lack of moisture;
• an insufficient amount nutrients;
• damage to plants by harmful insects;
• adverse weather conditions;
• fungal and bacterial diseases.

Lack of moisture

Onions are very picky about the frequency and quality of watering. Without sufficient moisture, especially during dry periods, the edges of plant leaves turn yellow and die, and the roots dry out, leading to crop loss.

During the phase of emergence of shoots and leaves (in the first half of summer), onions should be watered at least 2 times a week. At the next stages of growth and development - 4-5 times a month. It is best to water before noon, and exclusively at the root.

You should only use soft water, the temperature of which is 18-25 degrees Celsius. Consumption rate per sq. m - 6-8 liters. After watering, when the top layer of soil dries, loosening must be carried out.

Insufficient Nutrients

A common cause of yellowing of onion feathers is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. With its deficiency, the leaves grow very slowly, they look short and thick, at first light green in color, and then turn yellow.

In this case, it is necessary to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the plants. But how to feed onions so that they don’t turn yellow? A solution consisting of infused manure and urea is perfect for this. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. organics (mullein or bird droppings) and 1 tbsp. l. urea.

Damage to plants by harmful insects

Among garden crops onions are most susceptible to insect damage. Damage by pests causes yellowing of the feathers and can cause the loss of the entire crop.

The onion fly is especially active during the development of onion greens - in April and May. She lays her eggs on the stem, under the leaves or in the loose soil of the beds near the plants. The larvae that appear after 8-10 years are white small worms that climb into the bulb and feed on the scales. Affected plants are stunted in growth, their leaves wither, and after a while they become yellowish-gray and dry out.

Adverse weather conditions

One of the reasons for instant yellowing of leaves may be climatic conditions, for example, too dry or rainy summer. Reliable protection A greenhouse or ground greenhouse will serve to protect the crop from destruction, where the onion feathers will always be green and juicy.

Fungal and biological diseases

The most common diseases, a sign of which is the yellowness of the feather, are rust and bottom rot. Light yellow, slightly convex spots form on the leaves of plants affected by rust, after which the feathers dry out and die. With bottom rot, plants turn yellow completely and then wither.

Onions turn yellow, what to water - folk remedies for diseases and pests

To get a bountiful onion harvest, you must first observe crop rotation, sowing and planting dates. To avoid contamination of vegetables with pathogens, you should use only healthy planting material that is well heated and dried before planting. Just before sowing, disinfect the soil in the beds with a solution of copper sulfate: 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water. l. granules

Onions have turned yellow: what to use for onion flies

An excellent preventive measure against onion fly is to place beds of onions and carrots next door, as well as dusting the plantings with a mixture of ash and tobacco (taken in equal proportions). If worms are detected, vegetables should be watered with a solution consisting of tobacco dust, laundry soap and ground red pepper. To prepare it, 200 gr. tobacco, pour 2-3 liters of hot water, leave for three days. Then add water to 10 liters, add one spoonful of soap and pepper.

How to water onions for worms

Plants affected by stem nematodes must be fed with ammonium sulfate solution in early June. Dilute 2 tbsp. l. of the drug in a bucket of water and water the vegetables at the rate of 4-5 liters per square meter. m. area. As a preventive measure, seeds should be left for 15-20 minutes before sowing into the ground. put into solution table salt(5 tbsp per 5 liters of water).

Chemical methods and preparations for feeding onions

At home, especially if onions are grown for plumage, it is not recommended to treat them with any pesticides. If necessary, it is better to use biological fungicides that will not harm the human body.

Application of Trichodermin

So that in the middle of the season the question does not arise: the onion sets turn yellow, what to water - the bulbs should be treated with the fungicide Trichodermin before planting. For soaking, a solution of 30 g of suspension and 3 liters of water is prepared for one kilogram of sow. During the growing season, the plantings are additionally sprayed with the biological product Fitosporin-M or Gamair (3-4 times).

Treating onions with metronidazole

One of the most effective means The antibacterial drug metronidazole, which can be bought at every pharmacy, is considered to combat yellowing feathers.

It will quickly and efficiently destroy pests and thereby save the harvest. To treat plants, 4 tablets are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is used to water the beds at the rate of 4-6 liters per 1 square meter. m.

Bottom line

Every gardener who knows how and with what to water the onions so that the feathers do not turn yellow can get a rich harvest of strong bulbs and healthy greens. Use proven means and folk recipes to protect crops from diseases and pests, ensure timely sowing and you will be able to achieve an ideal result.

Onions grow in almost every garden in the country. Without it, it is unthinkable to prepare the main culinary dishes: borscht, soup, roast, cutlets, vegetable stew. This unpretentious crop causes little trouble to gardeners. But sometimes the feathers of the onions suddenly turn yellow, which threatens incomplete ripening and loss of harvest. What are the circumstances of this phenomenon and how to avoid trouble?

Main Factors

Diseases

Rust

Bacterial rot

Bottom Rot

Downy mildew

Insects

The soil

Adverse weather conditions

Prevention

Conclusion

Main Factors

If the onion bed has been properly cared for: watering, fertilizing, loosening, weeding, then all that remains is to look for the reasons for the yellowing of the feather tips in serious problems:

• infectious diseases;
• insect pest activity;
• exposure to changing weather conditions;
• unsuitable soil composition.

Yellowing of the stems in late July or August should not cause alarm. By this time, the bulbs are ripening, and the natural drying of the greenery begins. But the change in feather color in June should be alarming.

To understand the reason for the drying of the tips of the leaves, you need to dig up a couple of heads and carefully examine them.

Diseases

If the onion in the garden turns yellow in June, then you need to examine the leaves, head, and bottom so as not to miss the onset of the development of common vegetable diseases:

• rust;
• bacterial rot of bulbs;
• fusarium bottom rot;
• peronosporosis or downy mildew.

If an infected seed is planted, it will no longer be possible to get rid of the disease. Therefore, planting material must be carefully checked, heated and treated before sowing.

Rust

When rust occurs, yellow dots appear on the feathers, after which the greenery dries and dies. During the period of active growth, preventive treatment of plantings is carried out with a solution of copper oxychloride (1 tablespoon per 10 l), ammonia, and metronidazole. Repeated spraying - after 7 days.

Bacterial rot

The disease is detected when the bulb is cut. Dark and soft scales of infected tissue are clearly visible between the fresh layers. The infection is transmitted by insects. You can’t plant or store diseased onions. To prevent the disease, before planting, the soil is treated with metranidazole or a solution of the drug Hom (40 g per 10 l), spilling 0.5 l per 1 sq.m.

Bottom Rot

The fungal infection of bottom rot is in the ground, so you should carefully choose the location of the future bed. Plantings should not be placed in damp areas. To prevent rot, onions are watered with Fitosporin, and the beds are sprinkled with sand.

Downy mildew

Downy mildew can be recognized by the appearance of yellowish spots on the leaves and flowers, covered with a grayish-purple coating of sporulation. The spots increase, the feathers dry out, and the plants are stunted. Onion testes are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, which disinfects the seedlings and prevents infection from developing.

At the first symptoms, the growing onions are sprayed with fungicides Quadris, Pergado, Ridomil Gold, Kuproksat several times with an interval of 10-14 days.

If, despite treatment, the disease progresses, then the vegetables are dug up and destroyed. At this place, crops are renewed after 5 years.

Insects

There are many pests that can cause damage to growing onions and cause yellowing of the tips of the feathers:

1. Onion fly, the larvae of which eat the heads from the inside. It appears during the flowering of lilacs.
2. The secretive proboscis or weevil, whose yellow larvae with a black head develop in May inside a green feather, eating it. In mid-June, the second generation of beetles gnaws the pedicels on the inflorescences, destroying the seeds; the pest is especially fond of the beetle.
3. The stem nematode breeds offspring in the bulb, which provokes cracking of the head, deformation and drying of the green mass of the plant part.
4. Tobacco thrips suck the juice from the leaves, leaving lightish spots on them. This pest is especially annoying to plants in the greenhouse, where it appears in early spring, in the beds - only in June.
5. The onion moth does not cause harm itself, but its yellow-green caterpillars eat the leaves from the inside. Traces of the presence of larvae are clearly visible on the greenery: light longitudinal irregular lines. Caterpillars attack onions, leeks and garlic.

To prevent the appearance of pests, the following measures must be taken:

The soil

Why do the tips of healthy onions suddenly begin to turn yellow and dry out? One of the many reasons may be a lack of nitrogen in the soil. This is the most common factor.

Watering with nitrogen-containing fertilizer will correct the situation:

• ammonium nitrate;
• urea;
• dung or herbal infusion.

For manure infusion, take 0.5 buckets of manure and 5 buckets of water, mix and incubate for 5-10 days.

For mineral feeding, 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt are dissolved in 10 liters. This is enough to water 2 sq.m. plantations.

For a herbal nitrogen infusion, a barrel is filled with cut green dried grass, vegetable peelings, hay, fermented jam, sour homemade wine and filled with water. In the shade under a lid, all this ferments from 5 days to 2 weeks. The resulting concentrate is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 before use.

To prevent the onions from turning yellow, you need to water them several times a season. The first is done when the feather has grown to 3 cm. The second is done a week after the previous procedure. Last time Fertilizer is applied in early July, phosphorus-potassium nutrition is used. Before doing this, be sure to water the garden bed.

Before planting onions on any soil, add half a bucket of ash. Acidic soil is not suitable for planting this vegetable because they will not grow well in such an environment.

Therefore, before sowing, the soil is limed, be sure to add at least a bucket of ash, two buckets of compost or humus, 1 cup of bone meal and ¼ cup of mineral fertilizers. Otherwise, on poor soils, the feather begins to turn yellow immediately after the sprouts appear.

To deoxidize the soil, you can use a solution of baking soda: for 10 liters take 0.5 kg of soda, 2 bottles of iodine and 2 bags of potassium permanganate. Before use, the concentrate is diluted 1:10. Iodine and potassium permanganate kills fungal infections.

Adverse weather conditions

If there are no traces of disease on the green onion set, there are no larvae or rot in the shoots and heads, and the above-ground part gradually turns from green to yellow, the plant simply does not have enough moisture.

A shallow root system cannot provide water from the lower layers of the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to water the onions so that they do not turn yellow often, once every 3 days. It must always be in moist soil until the end of the head formation. You should water not under the bulbs, but in the grooves between the rows.

As soon as a change in the color of the feather is noticed in the summer, they immediately begin to water the beds. After this, it is worth feeding with an infusion of yeast, which stimulates root regrowth.

Yeast infusion improves the composition of the soil and strengthens the roots; it works only in warm weather on warm soil. Pour 10 g of dry yeast and 2 tbsp into a bucket of warm water. sugar, leave for 2 hours, dilute in 50 liters and water the garden bed.

Stop any irrigation 1-1.5 months before harvesting, otherwise the vegetable will be tasteless and poorly stored.

Plants planted in very early dates, may fall under return frosts on the ground. Sharp temperature fluctuations have a detrimental effect on immature seedlings. Get out of the bow stressful situation An ash extract will help. Take 0.5 kg of ash per 10 liters, leave for 3-5 days, stir regularly. Water the planting with a watering can, sprinkling the greens with a nutritious infusion.

Prevention

It is very easy to follow the advice of experienced gardeners to prevent the development of disease or the appearance of pests. It is much more difficult to deal with the consequences and inevitably lose part of the harvest.

What to do to protect onions from yellowing at the tips of the feathers? It is imperative to follow the rules of agricultural technology and use effective folk remedies against various infections:

• compliance with crop rotation, returning onions to the garden no earlier than after 3 years;
• make the soil looser by adding peat, sand and other raising agents;
• before planting, the sets are kept in salt water for 30 minutes to destroy possible larvae (take 3 tablespoons of salt per 3 liters);
• planting material is placed in hot water (temperature 50°C) for 5 minutes;
• to prevent infection, the seedlings are pickled for 1-2 hours in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• try to do early boarding so that the onion has time to gain strength and grow quickly;
• using combined beds with carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, tomatoes, the smell of which repels the carrot fly;
• dusting the rows with ash to feed and destroy many pests;
• mandatory mulching of plantings with a thick layer of organic matter;
• loosening the soil allows some of the pupae to be limed.

Conclusion

There are many subtleties of agricultural technology that cannot be avoided when obtaining bountiful harvest. Useful knowledge comes with experience, but it is still better to learn from the mistakes of others. It is not difficult to remember several of the main reasons for the early yellowing of the tips of onion leaves, which always signal problems in the beds.

You need to know them in order to act quickly and decisively at the first appearance of alarming signs of plant oppression.

Onions are considered one of the most unpretentious vegetables: they are easy to plant, easy to care for, and soil and climatic conditions have virtually no effect on yield. However, sometimes it happens that the onions in the garden turn yellow. What to do in such a situation?

In today's article we will try to understand the reasons for the yellowing of onion feathers, and also provide proven ways to eliminate this problem.

Reasons why onions turn yellow in the garden

Trying to figure out why onions turn yellow, many gardeners blame the weather. In fact, the reasons may lie in improper care of the plant. If the soil in the garden is not very fertile, the crop will lack nutrients, which will have to be added additionally.

It’s the same with watering - if the onion doesn’t have enough moisture, its feathers first begin to turn yellow and then dry out. Since these reasons are the most common, let’s look at methods to combat them in more detail.

Lack of nitrogen in the soil

One of the most common reasons why onions in the garden turn yellow lies in the lack of micro- and macroelements in the soil. As a rule, plants lack nitrogen, which is responsible for the growth of green mass in the spring (Figure 1).

Note: It is quite simple to notice a deficiency of this microelement: with a lack of nitrogen, feathers grow not in length, but in thickness.

But it is much easier to notice problems with growing by the color of the feathers: they do not become bright green, but acquire a yellowish color that is uncharacteristic for the plant. There is only one measure to combat this problem - treating the plant with nitrogen preparations. Best to use organic fertilizers(urea or manure infusion).

Figure 1: Changes in feather color may be due to nutritional deficiencies.

These fertilizers can also be used in combination. To prepare high-quality fertilizer, you need to mix a glass of rotted manure with a tablespoon of urea, and dissolve the resulting mixture in 10 liters of water. The finished product should be allowed to brew for several days, after which the beds should be watered.

Lack of moisture

The second common reason for yellowing of onion feathers is lack of moisture. As a rule, the leaves turn yellow and dry out abruptly, making it much easier to determine a lack of water than a lack of fertilizer.

Checking whether your plants need moisture is very simple. It is enough to carefully examine the soil in the garden bed: if it is dry not only on top, but also at a shallow depth, your plants need to be watered urgently (Figure 2).

It is much easier to prevent onions from turning yellow from lack of water than to deal with an existing problem. If the soil is allowed to dry out greatly, it is possible that the plants will have to not only be watered abundantly, but also treated with special fertilizers.

Figure 2. The vegetable begins to dry, wither and turn yellow with insufficient watering

A clear watering schedule will help prevent additional problems. In the first half of summer, plants are watered twice a week. Then watering is reduced to once every 7 days. The average watering rate is 6-8 liters per square meter of area. However, during drought, liquid can be added more often and in larger quantities. It is important not to use cold water and pour it directly under the root. When the liquid is absorbed, it is advisable to loosen the bed so that not only moisture, but also air reaches the roots.

Pest infestation

Onions also have enemies among insects. Sometimes it is they that lead to yellowing of feathers, and it is not always possible to notice the invasion of pests in time, since most of these insects live underground and damage the roots (Figure 3).

Among the most common onion pests, the most common are:

1. Stem nematode: leads not only to a change in the color of the feathers, but also to their deformation. To check for pests, break apart such a damaged feather. If small white thread-like worms are visible inside, your onion is damaged by a stem nematode.
2. Onion moth: lays eggs on the soil or at the base of leaves. It is the caterpillars that hatch from the eggs that do the most damage to the onions. Externally, they are small and yellow, and they can be found both inside and outside the feather.
3. Onion fly: harms the crop in late April or early May. Feature The damage is that not the whole feather begins to turn yellow, but only its tip, and when digging, you can find rotten areas of the bulb.

Figure 3. Main crop pests: 1 - stem nematode, 2 - onion moth, 3 - onion fly

Unfortunately, there are few ways to control onion pests. In the case of nematodes, they only help preventive actions: treatment of seed and soil before sowing. If the pest does appear, all affected specimens must be dug up and burned so that they do not damage the rest of the crop.

In the case of onion moth, pre-sowing treatment of planting material is not considered effective, since the pest overwinters in the soil in the butterfly stage. If insects do appear, the bed must be treated with insecticides. When onion flies are detected, treating the row spacing with a mixture of tobacco dust and sunflower ash, mixed in equal proportions, helps a lot. However, this is only a preventive measure, and the affected specimens will still have to be dug up and destroyed.

In addition, experts advise planting onions next to carrots or alternating planting of these vegetables. Both carrots and onions have a characteristic smell and are able to repel each other’s pests.

Exposure to adverse weather conditions

It also happens that yellow onion feathers appear even in the complete absence of pests and proper care of the crop. In this case, the most unpredictable cause of crop damage comes into play - unfavorable weather conditions (Figure 4).

Figure 4. To prevent the harvest from being spoiled by the weather, it is better to grow vegetables in a greenhouse or greenhouse

A change in the color of the vegetable can be caused by both severe drought and too rainy summer. Unfortunately, it makes no sense to treat or fertilize the plants in this case. Bad weather can destroy all your work. The only one effective method- grow vegetables in a greenhouse or small greenhouse. In such designs, the temperature and humidity are always stable, so the feathers will remain green and juicy.

If you still prefer to grow onions in open ground, carefully monitor the watering schedule. During drought, the beds will have to be watered more often, and after rains it is imperative to loosen the rows so that a sufficient amount of air reaches the roots.

Fungal or bacterial infection

Not only insects, but also fungal and bacterial diseases can destroy the onion crop. If you notice yellowed onions in your garden, be sure to check them for the presence of such diseases (Figure 5).

Usually the culture is affected by the following diseases:

1. Bacterial rot: found only in combination with pests (onion fly or thrips). These insects are carriers of bacteria. As a result of the damage, the feathers begin to turn yellow, the flower stalks dry out, and the bulb itself begins to rot. There are few methods to combat the disease. Affected specimens will have to be dug up and burned to protect the remaining crop.
2. Bottom Rot: manifests itself in yellowing and gradual death of the tips of the onion. Checking for the disease is very simple. It is enough to dig up the bulb and carefully examine it. If there is a lesion, white mycelium will be noticeable on its bottom. If the pathology is advanced, the mycelium becomes pink, and the root crop itself becomes soft and watery.
3. Rust: manifested by education yellow spots, which usually appear in late May or early June. Over time, they transform into convex pads. If the disease is not stopped, the feathers will turn black and fall off.

Figure 5. Main diseases of green onions: 1 - bacterial rot, 2 - bottom rot, 3 - rust

In most cases, fight folk infusions or chemicals against diseases are useless. The only one possible variant- carry out preventive treatment of planting material, for example, by soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.

Traditional methods of combating yellowing of onions

If you notice that the onion feathers in the garden are turning yellow, you need to establish the cause of this process and begin to fight it. But experienced gardeners recommend using preventive methods that will help prevent such a problem.

There are certain rules for landing and folk remedies prevention of feather yellowing:

1. After the autumn harvest, the bed must be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet. This will help destroy the larvae of pests that have settled in the soil for the winter.
2. Crop rotation must be observed. Onions should grow in one place no more than once every 4 years. Cereals are considered the best precursor for onions.
3. Planting material must be carefully inspected before planting. The bulbs should not show signs of rot or mechanical damage. It is advisable to warm up and dry the planting material before planting, and if you have had problems with vegetables before, it is better to treat the planting material with potassium permanganate or ammonia, which will help disinfect it.
4. The soil can also be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of copper sulfate. For high-quality treatment, it is enough to dissolve a tablespoon of the product in a bucket of water.

You should also remember that during the growing process you must strictly adhere to the schedule of watering and fertilizing. If yellowed specimens are found in the garden bed, they must be removed and burned to prevent diseases or pests from spreading throughout the garden.

The author of the video explains in detail what actions should be taken if the onion feather begins to turn yellow.

Finding a gardener in our latitudes who does not grow onions on his plot is not an easy task. But it’s even more difficult to find that lucky person who has never in his entire career as a homestead farmer asked himself the question why, despite all the weeding, fertilizing and watering, this censored onion turns yellow in the garden, without any twinge of his onion conscience? Agree, this is really very offensive. Especially if this is not the first time something like this has happened. And then gardeners wonder what to water the onions so as not to turn yellow. For those who prefer to see freshly picked green onions in a delicious summer salad, we have prepared this useful material.

Onions are perhaps one of the oldest cultivated plants known to our civilization. The first mention of onion cultivation dates back to the 4th millennium BC. It is known for certain that in Ancient Egypt the bow was considered a gift from the gods. In the ancient world, since the time of Hippocrates, onions were valued not only as a vegetable, but also as remedy. In ancient Rome, red onions were part of the mandatory diet of legionnaires, and Emperor Nero ate leeks with olive oil to strengthen his voice (he was a lover of singing). Today, more than 400 varieties of “cultivated” onions are known.

Healthy onions in the beds should look something like this

Why onions turn yellow in the garden: five reasons and methods of control

Before you try it on light clothes onion gurus, we must immediately make a reservation - onions in the garden turn yellow not only because of diseases and other negative influences, which will be discussed below. In August-September, the onion stems begin to fade, completely natural cause– the harvest is ripe and ready for harvest. In this case, you have nothing to worry about - you did everything right. A fair question is “What to do?” if an onion feather turns yellow at a time when, according to all the laws of the genre, it is supposed to continue to grow and grow. Then the source of the “onion grief” should be sought in five possible directions:

• insect pests;
• illness;
• soil condition;
• improper care of plants;
• unfavorable weather conditions.

Now let's look at these misfortunes in more detail and get acquainted with ways to eliminate them.

Reason one: pests

Significant damage to onion plantings can be caused by:

Onion fly (Delia antiqua)

These harmful insects, or rather their larvae, are equally dangerous as traditional onions, as well as more “noble” varieties - chives, shallots, leeks, etc. During the flowering of dandelion and lilac (approximately in the second half of May), the female onion fly lays eggs in the soil next to the plant or under the first dry scales and between green onion leaves. After 5-8 days, the larvae burrow into the bulb (mainly from the bottom) and begin to feed intensively. The onions in the garden turn yellow and then die completely. How to save onions from onion flies? To permanently ruin this pest's appetite, we recommend using the following methods.

In this photo, the onion fly is a malicious pest of onions.

• Plant onions in the soil as early as possible. Then he will have time to gain strength before the flies appear.
• Sow onions along with carrots. The fly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots.
• Use deterrents during summer and egg laying, for example, mix 200 g of wood ash with 1 tsp. tobacco dust and 1 tsp. ground pepper, dust 1 sq.m. with this mixture. planting onions. After the procedure, loosen the soil.
• Against larvae in the soil for 15 sq.m. you can add 30 g of Bazudin granules mixed with 0.5 liters of sand.
• Do not plant onions in the same place every year. The onion bed can be used once every four years.
• At the beginning of summer, flies (if Bazudin was not added to the soil) onion plantings can be treated with Confidor, Leptotsid, Mospilan, Nurell-D.
• If the larvae have already penetrated the bulb (the feathers wilt, the tips of the leaves turn yellow), then spraying with Creocide PRO will help save the plantings.

The emergence of onion fly larvae from eggs

There is another one folk method onion fly control - treatment saline solution(200 grams of salt per 10-liter bucket of water). The effect is enhanced by adding a small amount of ammonia. The first watering is carried out when the length of the feather reaches 8 cm. In this case, you need to try not to get it on the leaves. During the season, 2-3 such procedures may be required, before the summer of the new generation of flies. This method has been tested for years, but it leads to soil salinity, and excess chlorine and sodium inhibit plants. Therefore, it must be used very carefully.

The development of the larvae lasts about 3 weeks, then they go into the soil to pupate. After a certain time, a new generation appears, and everything starts all over again. The second generation is harmful in mid-to-late July. IN southern regions The onion fly can produce a third generation. Pupae overwinter at a depth of 4 to 10 cm.

Onion snail (Ceuthorrhynchus jakovlevi)

This beetle feeds on onion leaves. Its larvae (yellowish, with a brown head, legless, about 0.7 cm) eat away longitudinal passages in the pulp of the leaves, which are visible through the skin. Of course, onion plantings turn yellow in the beds. To get rid of a secretive proboscis you need to do the following:

The onion secretive beetle lives throughout Russia

• Thorough cleaning of the bed after harvesting. Unharvested onion remains are an ideal place for beetles to overwinter;
• deep digging of the soil before the onset of cold weather. The beetle does not tolerate frost;
• if the pest is small in number, it can be collected. By the way, beetles are very shy; at the slightest touch they fall to the ground;
• loosening the rows with the addition of repellents (wood ash, ground red and black pepper, mustard powder)
• during mass dispersal during the growing season, onions can be sprayed with “Karbofos” at the rate of 60 g (1 package) per 10 liters of water. 1 liter of the resulting solution is treated with 10 sq.m. landing After treatment, the feather should not be eaten for some time.

Larva of a secretive beetle at a crime scene

Stem (onion) nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci Kuhn)

An innocent-looking, barely noticeable thread-like “worm”. Adults and larvae feed on plant sap, as a result of which the onion feathers turn yellow and dry out. The bottom is destroyed, the rudiments begin to grow through the cracks, it seems that the bulb is turning outward. The main danger of these microscopic (1-1.5 mm) pests is that they occupy the soil for decades. Determining the presence of nematodes in non-onion beds is very difficult. However, over the centuries-old history of fighting this pest, very effective combat techniques have been invented and tested:

Stem nematode (visible only under a microscope)

• Do not plant onions in one place, return to their original bed no earlier than after 4 years.
• Plant only healthy planting material.
• Treat onions before planting hot water(45 degrees) for 6 minutes or salt solution (3 tablespoons of salt per 3 liters of water) for 20 minutes.
• Sow calendula or tagetis (marigolds) between the rows of onions. You can water the onions with marigold tincture.

Onion (tobacco) thrips (Thrips tabaci Lind)

A yellowish or brownish insect whose body length is not more than 1 mm. The larvae are wingless, gray-white or greenish-yellow. Thrips damage not only onions, but also garlic, cucumbers, flower crops. They feed on plant sap by sucking it out. The leaves fade, turn yellow, and dry out. They overwinter in the top layer of soil, on the remains of vegetation, under onion scales. Females lay brownish small eggs singly in leaf tissue. The larvae hatch after 5 days.

Onion (tobacco) thrips

• Crop rotation;
• Pre-planting 10-minute disinfection of the seeds with hot water (45 ° C) with further immersion in cold water;
• Spraying the plantings with a solution of “Confidor” (1 ml per 10 liters of water) or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). Per 100 sq.m. use 10 liters of insecticidal solution.

Onion moth (Acrolepiopsis assectella)

Causes enormous damage to onion plantings in dry, warm weather. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out from the tops, and longitudinal asymmetrical spots called mines appear on them.

Onion moth

The first generation of caterpillars damage in late May - June. Butterflies are small (no more than 0.8 cm, with a wingspan of up to 1.4 cm). Their flights occur in July, exclusively at night. Females lay yellowish eggs, 0.5 mm in size, singly on the soil near plants or at the base of leaves. The emerging caterpillars (yellowish-green in color with brownish warts, about 1 cm long) penetrate the leaves and feed there. In October, butterflies hatch from pupae and overwinter in shelters. In the spring they begin to fly.

Onion moth caterpillar

• Crop rotation;
• Cleaning of plant residues;
• Digging the soil before frost;
• Spraying onion moths with Iskra solution (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) during the summer. 1 liter of insecticidal solution is enough for 10 sq.m. planting onions.

Notes in the margins

Most effective method combating harmful insects is a “war on all fronts.” The fact is that the onion fly, the nematode, and the secretive beetle can calmly dine, so to speak, at the same table. Therefore, we recommend using the above measures in combination. For example, combine non-chemical methods of combating nematodes with measures aimed against onion flies (mulching with ash, pollination with tobacco dust, etc.).

Reason two: plant diseases

This name hides several fungal diseases of onions with similar external signs - spotty yellowing of the onion feathers with the formation of convex pads in May-June, followed by their blackening and complete falling of the leaves.

Control measures:

• crop rotation;
• warming up the planting material before storing it;
• warming up the onion sets before planting for 12 hours at a temperature of 30-40 degrees;
• for preventive purposes, planting onions during the period of mass growth can be sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride (1 tbsp of the drug per 10 liters of water with the addition of 1 tbsp. liquid soap). The second spraying is carried out a week after the first with a solution of the drug “Hom”, prepared according to the instructions.

Bacterial rot of onions

It is discovered when the bulbs are cut. A dark layer of softened tissue is clearly visible between healthy scales. When stored, such bulbs rot. The infection is carried by insects (thrips, onion flies, mites, etc.). When planting diseased bulbs, the plants look depressed, the leaves turn yellow, and the flower stalks dry out.

Manifestations of bacteriosis in an onion bed

• Pre-plant culling of contaminated material. The neck of the bulbs is cut off by 0.5-1 cm so that all the scales are visible.
• Before planting onion sets or turnips, the soil is treated with the preparation “Hom” (40 g per 10 liters of water). consumption 500 ml of solution per 1 sq.m.

Almost all varieties and types of onions are susceptible to this fungal disease. Fungi from the genus Fusarium live in the soil and infect the bulb during the growing season at temperatures from + 13° to + 30° Celsius. In diseased plants, the feathers very quickly turn yellow and die.

This is how unappetizing an onion looks when it gets bottom rot

Agrotechnical measures to combat bottom rot:

• Right choice places for onion beds. The site should not be in a low-lying area to avoid flooding during floods and rainstorms.
• Maintaining crop rotation. The best predecessors for planting onions are cereal grains. If symptoms of the disease are observed on the ridges, the next onion planting in this place should be done no earlier than after 5 years.
• Planting material (seeds or sets) must be healthy and disinfected. Planting (sowing) onions must be carried out in optimal agrotechnical terms.
• Use for cultivation only resistant varieties and hybrids of onions.
• The harvested crop should be stored in the right conditions air temperature and humidity.

Notes in the margins

If you have already begun your crusade against onion pests and carried out a set of measures to combat onion flies, we hasten to please you, these measures are an excellent preventive measure against bottom rot. Now your onions have double protection, which means your chances of getting a healthy, full harvest are doubled.

Reason three: lack of nitrogen in the soil

Your onions will definitely turn yellow if the soil feeding them is low in nitrogen. In fact, nitrogen deficiency in the soil is the most common and most insidious cause of yellow onion feathers. There is only one method of control here - fertilizing the onion beds with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Organic or organo-mineral fertilizers are perfect for this.

Not only onions turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen in the soil

If you prefer organics when choosing fertilizers, then you can use only rotted manure in preparing the beds, and make a fermented infusion for fertilizing. Adding fresh manure to the soil increases the risk of spreading fungal diseases.

Reason four: mistakes when caring for onions

The most common mistake that can cause onions to turn yellow in the beds is an incorrect watering regime. Of course, water care for each of the many varieties of onions has its own subtleties. Therefore we will only touch upon general recommendations– equally suitable for the entire onion family.

Onion plantation in Valencia. With proper watering, the yield is 8000(!) centners per hectare

• During the period of rooting and beginning of growth, onions should be watered at least once every three days. Moreover, watering should be plentiful. If the soil on the ridges is mulched, you can water it less often - mulch retains moisture remarkably well.
• It is advisable to water the onion at the root.
• The water temperature for irrigation should vary from +18 to +25 degrees Celsius.
• The optimal watering time is before noon.
• If the water for irrigation is hard, it should be artificially softened with special additives.

Notes in the margins

It is convenient to combine watering onions with fertilizing. To do this, fertilizers are dissolved in water and thus obtain nutrient solution. Composition of the solution: for 10 liters of water we take 50-70 grams of ammonium nitrate and 20 grams of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium salt. The first feeding of onions should be done when the feather has grown 3 centimeters from the ground level. The second feeding is done approximately a week after the first. For 1 m² of onion bed, 6 liters of solution are needed. When organizing watering of onions, you should remember the golden rule of the “onion grower”: 4-5 days before harvesting, watering must be stopped, otherwise the bulbs will be tasteless. Last watering“green” onions are carried out 2 days before harvesting.

Drip irrigation is one of the successful methods of organizing watering

Reason five: unfavorable weather conditions

All the skills and tricks of gardeners can be nullified by the whims of Mother Nature. In very dry summers, as well as in excessively whiny weather, the onions will turn yellow in the beds even without the participation of the above factors. There is only one way out of this situation - to act like Michurin. That is, “do not expect favors from Nature.” Natural disasters will avoid your onion beds if they, the beds, are protected reliable greenhouse.

Green onions in a greenhouse are not afraid of heat or rain

That's all for today. We sincerely hope that our recommendations will help you obtain abundant harvests. Go for it!

Properly grown healthy green onions will be a wonderful decoration for your table.

It happens that the onion feathers in the garden begin to turn yellow. They may become covered with small yellow spots, only the tips may dry out, or the entire bed may turn yellow at one point. And it becomes a shame, because this misfortune could have been avoided if preventive measures were taken and agrotechnical practices were followed.

Typically, the feathers of the plant turn yellow as a result of onion damage by diseases or pests. Let's look at the forehead option in more detail.

Diseases that cause yellowing

Foliage may turn yellow due to fungal diseases: rust, bottom rot, bacterial rot.

When feathers rust, they become covered with many yellow spots. After some time they turn yellow, blacken and die.

Bottom rot and bacterial rot primarily damage the bulbs, and then the disease manifests itself as yellowing of the feathers.

Fungal diseases can only be cured at a very early stage. To do this, the beds are treated with a weak solution of copper oxychloride.

If the disease progresses, then the onion must be dug up and destroyed, and no planting should be done in this place for 5 years.

Onions turn yellow when attacked by pests

Onions have many insect enemies. These are nematodes, onion flies, secretive proboscis, onion moths and thrips.

Onion flies and moths lay eggs on leaves or on the ground next to the planted onion. This happens from the second ten days of May to the first ten days of June. After a week, small caterpillars emerge from the eggs - larvae that make their way to the bulbs, settle in them and feed on their pulp and juice. Because of this, nutrients stop flowing to the green feather, they turn yellow and dry out.

Nematodes live in the ground for many years. They damage the bulb and feed on the pulp, which begins to rot. Nematodes can also settle in the stem, which turns yellow along with the leaves and dries out.

The secretive proboscis likes the onion feather. It gnaws passages in it, which upon careful examination can be seen - they are translucent.

You can tell that the onions have been attacked by thrips if many small black dots are noticed on the greens. The leaf begins to turn yellow at the top, gradually yellowing goes down.

Folk remedies for combating yellowing - what to water against pests

The fight against onion flies and moths consists of scaring them away from the beds so that they do not lay eggs on them.

Rows of onions can be alternated with rows of carrots, marigolds and calendula. Flies and moths cannot stand the smell of these plants.

In addition, at the moment the flies fly, which usually coincides with the flowering of cherries, lilacs and dandelions, you can sprinkle a green feather with a mixture of wood ash, tobacco and ground pepper.

If there is a possibility that the flies have already laid eggs, then you can fight the larvae with a salt solution. Add 100-150 grams of salt to one large bucket of water. Only water the soil with this solution, being careful not to get the liquid on the green shoots. You should know that salt is not washed out of the soil for a long time, so you should not overuse it.

If folk remedies do not help, in order to save the plantations, you will have to use karbofos. 50 grams are diluted in 1 liter of water and sprayed. Onion feathers should not be eaten for 30 days from the date of processing.

How to feed onions so they don’t turn yellow

Onions may turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen in the soil. To prevent this from happening, you need to fill the bed with well-rotted manure before planting. If the manure is fresh, then you need to make a solution: add 5 buckets of water to 0.5 buckets of manure. This solution should ferment for 5-10 days. It will come from him bad smell, so it is better to place a container with such fertilizer in the far corner of the garden.

You can fertilize mineral fertilizers. In one bucket of water, 50 grams of ammonium nitrate, 20 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium salt are diluted. This solution is enough to fertilize 2 square meters of plantings. Feed twice: immediately after germination, and again a week later.

What to do if onion tips turn yellow

The tips of onions may turn yellow if not watered enough. Onions are a moisture-loving plant, so in dry weather they should be watered 2 times a week.

You cannot use cold water from a well or well. It must be dialed in advance so that it warms up under the sun.

Before harvesting, watering is stopped a week so that the soil can dry out completely.

Prevention

When plantings are exposed to diseases or attacked by pests, folk remedies do not always help. If you carry out prevention, many problems can be avoided:

• Check onion sets carefully before planting. At the slightest suspicion of the presence of a disease, discard the onions;
• Pest larvae can be expelled from the sets by keeping the onions in salt water for half an hour. The solution is prepared as follows: 3 tablespoons of salt are diluted in 3 liters of water;
• etching in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours helps against diseases;
• can be kept in hot water (50° C) for 5 minutes;
• Onions are not grown in one place for 4 years. It is desirable that the predecessors of onions be grain crops;
• The area allocated for beds is cleared of all plant debris in the fall and dug up with a shovel. The area is not leveled, but left for the winter with clods of earth. This will freeze out more insect pests.

Video

Onions are probably the most popular of crops, because not a single garden plot can do without it. And this is understandable, because in addition to its taste, onions have a huge number of beneficial properties.
But even with such a seemingly simple culture, problems often arise. One of the most common situations is when green onions turn yellow. If you do not pay attention to this in time and do not start fighting, you may lose the harvest. This problem is especially relevant for gardeners who grow onions for sale.

Causes of yellowing green onions
To deal with the problem of yellowing onions, you need to find out why this happens. And there are quite a lot of reasons.
Reason one: natural phenomenon. In August, the onions are already completely ready for harvest, so the green feathers begin to fade, signaling that the bulbs themselves are already ripe and it’s time to remove them from the garden. This is the only reason you don't need to worry about.
Reason two: pests There are several of them. For absolutely all types of onions: both for ordinary onions and for their nobler counterparts (leeks, chives, shallots...) the greatest harm is caused by the larvae of the onion fly. At the end of May, females lay eggs either in the ground near the plant or between the green feathers. After a week, the hatched larvae make their way inside the bulb. By feeding on its pulp, they first cause the feathers to turn yellow, and then the plant dies altogether.

There are a few tricks you can use to prevent yellowing.
1. If you plant the onion as early as possible, then even before the flies appear it will gain the necessary strength.
2. There should not be a permanent place for planting onions.
3. Since the onion fly cannot stand the smell of carrots, you can make beds with these crops next to each other or intersperse them.
4.From mid-May you need to start using repellents. For example, dust each square meter of planting with the following mixture: mix a teaspoon of ground pepper and tobacco dust with 200 grams of ash. Then the soil needs to be loosened.

5. When flies appear, the onion can be treated with one of the drugs: Confidor, Leptotsid, Mospilan, Nurell-D.

If preventive measures have not been taken and the larvae have already damaged the bulb, as a result of which the plantings have begun to disappear, you need to start fighting. To get rid of this pest, you need to take 30 g of Baduzin, mix it with 500 g of sand and add this mixture to the soil (calculation is given for 15 square meters).
You can also use the drug Creocid PRO, which needs to be sprayed on the affected plants.
But you can also solve the problem with folk remedies: dilute 200 g of salt in a bucket of water and pour this solution over the onions. You should not do this if the feather has not yet grown to 8 cm and you should not allow it to get on the green part of the plant. There is also no need to overuse this method, as this can cause soil salinity, and due to excess sodium and chlorine, plants will grow poorly and disappear.
The secretive beetle and its faces, which eat away the longitudinal passages in the feathers, feed on onion leaves. Therefore, the green onions begin to turn yellow.

To prevent the appearance of this pest, it is necessary to completely clean the beds after harvesting, because the beetle overwinters in onion residues; Before frosts, dig the soil deeply; loosen the soil between the beds, adding repellents to it (mustard powder, ground pepper or wood ash are suitable for this).
Karbofos is suitable for fighting the bug. One package of the drug, diluted in a bucket of water, is enough to treat 10 square meters of planting.
Another fan of onions is the onion nematode. This small thread-like worm feeds on the sap of the plant, which is why the green onions begin to turn yellow and dry out, and the bulb itself seems to “turn” outward. This occurs due to the fact that the buds begin to grow through the cracks formed. If you do not fight these pests, the land will be contaminated for decades.

As a preventive measure, you can use the following tips:
1. Onions can be planted in the same place after at least four years.
2. Before sowing onions, the sets should be immersed in water at a temperature of 45 degrees for 5 minutes or in a saline solution for 25 minutes (a tablespoon per liter of water).
3. Plant marigolds or calendula between the rows of onions. And you can water the plants directly with marigold tincture.

Onion (tobacco) thrips suck the juice from the plant, so the leaves turn yellow and dry out. As a preventative measure, the sowing should be immersed in water at a temperature of 45 degrees for 10 minutes and then immersed in cold water. Planting material can be sprayed with Confidor (1 ml of solution per bucket of water) or Iskra (one tablet per bucket of water). This is enough to process one hundred square meters of land.

It is worth noting that these pests can get along with each other and infect the plant at the same time, so it is better to carry out comprehensive prevention.

Reason three: diseases. For example, rust, which causes raised yellow spots to appear. Over time, the leaves turn black and begin to fall off. To prevent the development of this disease, the seedlings need to be “warmed up” at 40 degrees for 12 hours; spray an adult plant with a solution of copper oxychloride (add a tablespoon of the drug and liquid soap to a bucket of water), and after a week with a solution of “Homa”.

The next disease is bacterial rot that affects the bulbs. Brown streaks appear between the scales, causing the feathers to turn yellow. For prevention, the soil is treated with “Hom” before planting (a bucket of water with 40 g of the drug is enough for 20 square meters).

Almost all types of onions are susceptible to bottom rot. The cause of the disease is Fusarium fungi, which infect the bulb during the growing season. To avoid infection, it is necessary to plant onions on small hills to avoid stagnation of water, and carry out preventive measures (the same as for preventing the appearance of onion flies is suitable).

Reason four: lack of nitrogen. This is the most common reason why green onions turn yellow. What to do? Nitrogen-containing fertilizers must be regularly added to the soil.

Reason five: improper care, in particular, improper watering. The ideal method of watering is drip irrigation. Each onion variety has its own requirements for watering, but the universal rules are: when the onion begins to take root and grows, it is necessary to water abundantly, in the first half of the day and at least 2 times a week (with the exception of mulched soils). The water should not be cold (18-25 degrees) and soft (hard water can be softened with special means).

Reason six: weather. Drought, as well as excessive humidity, negatively affects green onions, so building a greenhouse would be ideal.

Rules for storing green onions

Growing green onions is only half the battle. After all, it also needs to be preserved, especially if it is a source of income.

First rule: Sort through the feathers, removing all damaged ones.
Second rule: Do not wash feathers before storing or after washing, dry them thoroughly with a paper towel.
· Third rule: Place dry feathers in a bag, tie it and make several holes for ventilation. If the onion was pulled out with its roots, then they need to be wrapped in a cloth moistened with water and dry paper.
If you follow these rules, the cut onion feathers will remain juicy green for about 3 weeks.

Onion - this one vegetable crop grows in literally every garden, and almost every gardener sooner or later faces the problem of yellowing of the feathers of this plant. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, but only one can be perceived by gardeners completely calmly - this is when the feathers turn yellow and lie down when the bulb ripens. All other reasons for yellowing of onion arrows are unacceptable and you must know them and be able to eliminate them, otherwise you may be left without a harvest. But before we take on the reasons and start learning how to eliminate them, let's talk about how to protect your onion from yellowing of its feathers as reliably as possible.

Simple rules for preventing yellowing of onion feathers

So, in order for onion feathers to be a healthy color before harvesting, it is necessary to treat the area correctly, water it on time, use modern means of combating diseases and pests, and take into account other rules for growing it.

Rule one - adherence to crop rotation, remember that it is not recommended to plant onions in the same place more often than once every four years, otherwise pests and diseases accumulate on the site, and onions consume plenty of nutrients from the soil.

Rule two - proper feeding. Fertilizers must be applied correctly and in optimal quantity, not forgetting that both a lack and an excess of fertilizers do not bode well.

Rule three - proper watering. Onions like moderate, but one might say constant, watering. The soil should not become too dry and the soil should not become significantly waterlogged.

Rule four - do not run the site. If you notice that the onion feathers have begun to turn yellow, it is better to remove them and burn them. This way you can stop the spread of infection or pest.

Rule five - deep digging. It is advisable to dig up the soil for onions using a full bayonet shovel with a rotation of the layer to minimize the amount harmful microorganisms in the soil.

These are the most important measures, one might say, to prevent yellowing of onion feathers, but it also happens that they do not help, and the onion still turns yellow. What are the reasons and what to do about it?

As we have already mentioned, there are quite a few reasons for the yellowing of onions; this could be a manifestation of a pest or disease, incorrect agricultural practices, the influence of weather, or a lack of nitrogen in the soil.

Pests that cause onions to turn yellow

There are quite a lot of pests whose vital activity leads to yellowing of onions: these are onion moths, tobacco thrips, onion secretive proboscis, stem nematode and, of course, onion fly.

Onion moth

Typically, onion moths are most active when it is hot and it rarely rains, and the soil is dry. At this time, the onion moth butterfly appears, little distinguishable from the house moth that is familiar to us all. The damage is caused by its larvae, which hatch from the eggs laid by the butterfly. The presence of larvae leads to the fact that first the tips of the onion feathers begin to dry out, and then the entire feather dries out completely.

To know how to fight onion moth, you need to know its biology. For example, the onion moth lays its ovipositor near the bulbs in the soil. Caterpillars hatched from eggs have a light yellow body color and are about a centimeter long. Having hatched, they move towards the feathers, climb into them and begin to gnaw out the tissue from the inside, which leads to yellowing and withering of the feathers.

Before using insecticides, such as Metaphos, you should try to fight onion moths with folk remedies, for which you can treat the feathers and the soil around with stove ash, scattering it evenly, as well as tobacco, you can directly from cigarettes, or spray the soil and plants infusion of garlic (a couple of cloves per liter of water).

Tobacco thrips

Onion, or tobacco thrips - it also leads to yellowing of onion feathers. Thrips are smaller in size than aphids; like them, they feed on cell sap, which leads to yellowing and drying of onion leaf blades. Thrips overwinter in the soil and onions that are left for planting next year, therefore, even when planting seedlings on an ideal plot in all respects and following all agricultural practices, onions can still suffer from this pest.

To prevent thrips from getting into your area with the seedlings, before planting, you need to immerse the seedlings in water with a temperature of 45-47 degrees above zero for a quarter of an hour, and then in cold water for 10 minutes.

If the pest has clearly appeared, then folk remedies are unlikely to help; insecticides must be used. To combat thrips, you must use insecticides, strictly following the instructions, such as Iskra or Confidor.

Onion sneaker

Its vital activity is another reason why onion feathers may turn yellow. The larvae of the secretive proboscis literally eat onion feathers and at first they change color to a lighter one, then they turn yellow, wither and die. If the pest is not controlled, it can destroy most of the onion plantation.

The most annoying thing is that this beetle moves quickly, and even if you take into account crop rotation, fertilizing and watering, and take good care of the soil, it can still appear on your site, having flown from a neighboring one.

In order to minimize the risk of beetles appearing on a site, it is necessary to dig up the soil, remove and burn plant debris, and observe crop rotation. The soil around the beds must be sprinkled with wood ash or mustard or pepper powder, this may repel insects.

When a beetle appears in small numbers, these individuals can be collected manually. If there is a lot of pests, then it is necessary to use insecticides, strictly following the instructions on the packaging. Previously, the drug Karbofos helped effectively, but then it was banned and you need to look for other approved analogues.

Stem nematode

Another reason for the appearance of an atypical color of onion feathers is a stem nematode. Essentially, this is a small worm that can penetrate the bulb and cause cracks at the bottom of the head, it begins to rot, and the leaf blades turn yellow and die. Usually the nematode is very small, no more than one and a half millimeters, but the harm it causes can be colossal. If a nematode has entered your area, then no crop rotation will most likely help; it can live in the soil for up to ten years, and sometimes longer.

To prevent nematodes from entering your site through onion sets, before planting, you need to immerse it in water heated to 45 degrees above zero for a quarter of an hour, and then in salt water for half an hour.

Gardeners say that when the soil is infected with a nematode, an infusion of marigolds can help get rid of it - 2-3 kg of vegetative mass of marigolds per bucket of water is the norm for 2-3 square meters of soil.

There are also insecticides to combat nematodes, these are Fitoverm and the new drug Nematophagin BT.

Onion fly

Almost the most common pest of onions, the larvae of which happily eat any of its varieties. You can usually tell that it is the onion fly that is to blame for the yellowing of the feathers by how the leaves begin to deteriorate: first they turn yellow, then they begin to wither.

To prevent onion flies from entering the area, beds with onions must be alternated with beds of carrots. The aroma of carrots can repel onion flies, and the smell of onions can repel carrot flies, so you have double the benefit.

If the number of individuals is small and the damage from them is not yet very significant, then the affected plants can be treated with a solution of salt and ammonia, but remember that salt is dangerous for the soil and it is better not to carry out such treatments more than once per season. To obtain the solution, you need to dissolve 200 g of salt (no more!) and a tablespoon of ammonia in a bucket of water. After this, you can treat the soil and affected plants with the solution, using this amount per five square meters of bed.

Mixtures of ash and tobacco, as well as pepper and mustard in equal parts, have a much more beneficial effect on the soil, but less effectively on the pest. You need 25-30 grams of these substances per square meter.

If folk remedies do not help, which happens quite often, insecticides must be used. The drugs Aktara, Sochva and Tabazol will help you cope with onion fly.

Onion diseases

In addition to pests, diseases can also turn onion leaves yellow, for example, bacterial rot, bottom rot, rust and a number of other less common ones. Usually diseases on onions are fungal or bacterial; they can appear on the site after being introduced from planting material or insects. Taking this into account, when sowing onion sets, you need to carefully sort them out, removing all those onions that show signs of infection. The remaining bulbs should be placed in water at a temperature of +45 degrees for 10-15 minutes, then dipped in salt water (a tablespoon per 300 g of water) for 8-10 minutes.

Do not forget that diseases are more active in soil that has excess moisture and in shaded areas, so you need to water the onions often, but moderately, and select a leveled and well-lit area for it.

In addition, diseases can be transmitted by pests, so even if there are few pests on the site, you still need to fight them.

If you do not want to use chemicals to fight diseases, then at least treat the affected plants with copper-containing preparations: HOM, Oxyx, Bordeaux mixture and others, if this is also inappropriate on your site, then remove the affected plants to prevent the diseases from spreading further.

Mistakes in caring for onion beds

Any plant can suffer from improper care, and onions are no exception. The most common mistakes are planting onions in the same place for many years, improper feeding and watering.

Lack or excess of nitrogen in the soil

Onions are almost the only vegetable that is very picky about nitrogen in the soil. Onion feathers can turn yellow either from a lack of nitrogen or from its excess, so you need to be careful with the addition of microelements. If the feathers have turned yellow, then dig up one bulb; if you have not found any signs of pest infestation and the bulb is apparently intact, then the feathers may have turned yellow due to a lack of nitrogen. To replenish it, you need to carry out foliar feeding: just dissolve 45-55 g of ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water and use the resulting solution on a couple of square meters of onion beds.

In general, onions can be fed only a couple of times during the season, the first time as soon as the shoots appear and the second time after 12-14 days. You can use nitroammophoska for this by dissolving a tablespoon of fertilizer in a bucket of water; this amount is enough for three meters of beds.

If there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, traces of rotting will be clearly visible on the dug up bulb. In this case, you need to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate to the soil. You need a teaspoon of both in a bucket of water, this is the norm for a couple of square meters of bed. After a week, you can loosen the soil and add wood ash at 100-150 g per square meter.

Improper watering of onions

If the onion is underfilled or overfilled with water, its feathers will begin to turn yellow. You need to water the onions every day, preferably in the evening, with settled water. room temperature. A bucket of water is enough per square meter, but only if there is no rain and it is hot. If there is even a little rain during the day, then watering can be omitted; if there is no rain, but it is cold (below +20 degrees), then the water rate can be halved.

Conclusion

So, as you understand, there are quite a few reasons why onion feathers begin to turn yellow. Before taking on chemistry, assess the condition of the onion, try to find pests, assess the condition of the soil, and so on, only then make a decision in favor of using chemistry. Sometimes the situation can be saved by simply removing several atypical plants from the site and following simple care rules. Don’t forget about prevention, especially if you are sowing unfamiliar material.

Kira Stoletova

How to water onions so they don't turn yellow? The answer to this question must be sought in the conditions of planting and caring for the plant, in the root cause of the green arrow disease.

No garden is complete without bulbs and juicy green onions. Caring for the plant is simple, and even a novice gardener knows how to water the crop. Onions are rarely susceptible to diseases and do not need constant watering, but sometimes even trouble happens to an unpretentious crop.

The onion is turning yellow, what should I do?

A popular and healthy vegetable is an integral “resident” of any garden. In the bed of a skillful housewife, several varieties grow at once, which do not need to be watered every day. Easy care and a stable harvest are the two main reasons why onions are planted in large and small areas. The root crop and succulent feather are valuable. Watering is carried out together with neighboring crops. You can feed the onion with the simplest homemade fertilizer. Good nutrition will protect the crop from various pests and diseases. Fertilizer is prepared from humus and peat (sometimes fertile soil is added). It is best to water fertilized soil out of turn to useful material penetrated faster into the root crop. Proper care and homemade folk remedies will ensure a healthy harvest for every gardener.

After planting in open ground, it is better to water the bulbs once a week, but up to five times a month. The crop does not need abundant watering, and excessive amounts of moisture can harm both stems and root crops. If the bulbous stem did not turn yellow immediately, but gradually, problems arose in the root system. Problems in the external environment lead to rapid drying of arrows.

Watering the onion so that its green growth does not turn yellow should be done according to a plan created in advance. The plants themselves are unpretentious and can withstand even low temperatures. The crop is planted in early spring in open ground or in winter in a greenhouse. Onions are a source of nutrients and vitamins, as well as a natural antioxidant. People say: “If the onion turns yellow immediately after planting, there is no need to expect a harvest.” Watering such bulbs is simply pointless.

Folk remedies are still used to this day to treat herbs against pests. In cases where only the onion stem turned yellow, but the rest of the seasonal vegetables and fruits remained healthy, the cause was sought in pests.

You can make special trenches in the garden bed if there are heavy torrential rains, because rot is the second most common reason for onions turning sharply yellow. There is no need to water these plants additionally. Reasons why the disease spreads to sets, bulbs and feathers:

• onion fly;
• excessive watering;
• small pests;
• lack of nutrients and nitrogen;
• rotting of the root crop, which depletes the feather;
• constant bad weather in summer.

It is not enough to water the plants; they should be taken care of properly. Watering that is not organized will more likely harm the onion than help. Succulent feathers and bulbs will grow in the garden bed only in cases where the gardener has shown skill and perseverance in caring for all the crops.

Onion fly

If your onion arrows have begun to slowly wilt, you can check the green feathers for onion fly larvae. In a garden bed where green and tasty crops are densely planted, breeding pests are quite common. The yellowing effect appears due to a large accumulation of larvae. Timely prevention helps prevent the proliferation of pests that lead to the death of the plant.

The leaves are an ideal environment for fly larvae; the nutritious stems allow the eggs to be kept alive while they grow. You can plant bulbs of any kind next to carrots, then no flies will become a problem. The smell of carrot tops in the garden drives away all onion pests.

Actions to save from eggs that cover all onion leaves are as follows:

• do not plant a crop twice in the same place;
• do not isolate the bed from other plants;
• a solution of hydrochloric acid (metronidazole or spraying with ammonia from water) helps against yellowing;
• To prevent yellowing, you can wipe the leaves with an ordinary concentrated saline solution if no other substances are at hand.

Other pest species include onion nematodes, flies and secretive proboscis. The leaves and stems are the first to be affected by insects. Green onion becomes infected from just one larva or healthy individual. Flies are brought from the environment or remain to overwinter in the place where the onions were previously planted. From such pests, a yellow tint appears on the central part of the feather, and not on the tip. Sevok is not infected with fly larvae at all.

Green arrow suffers from yellowing in the first weeks after planting. At this time, sleeping insects appear. Pests begin to actively reproduce from the first days of awakening. Water with salt makes plants unsuitable for onion flies. Get the right solution It will work if you keep the proportion: two parts water and one part salt.

The secretive proboscis - a pest of greenery

The pest that causes yellowing, the secretive proboscis, appears on green shoots in early summer. Adults or larvae damage roots and feathers. Insects eat the bulbs and arrows piece by piece. Over time, damaged plants begin to fade, acquiring a characteristic yellowish tint. The color, which indicates a pest attack, is an alarm signal for the gardener. Constant loosening of the soil will help the crop. It is especially important to fluff up the soil after heavy rains. Fertilization of the land occurs once a month, using ash or peat. Dilute the fertilizer with mustard, salt and pepper. From the yellowing of the leaves to the complete destruction of the root crop, no more than 2-3 weeks pass. Delay on the part of humans leads to the destruction of the entire crop.

Using folk remedies you can get rid of pests in a matter of days. So how to water the onions so that they don’t turn yellow if you don’t want to use chemicals?

A solution of mustard and ammonia

To treat plants, tinctures of tobacco, mustard and garlic are used. A small amount of ammonia is added to the prepared mixture. Such solutions are infused for 4 days. If the arrows have already turned yellow and dry (a process that could not be prevented), every day of delay can cost the gardener his harvest. The prepared mixture is brought to a boil and then cooled. This solution is used to treat feathers against nematodes or other pests.

Lack of nitrogenous substances

Lack of nitrogenous substances in the soil (in an area with many groundwater) leads to rapid drying of the stems. Different crops suffer from the disease, all nearby greenery also slowly dries out and loses color. Pale white veins appear on succulent leaves, the appearance of which becomes the first alarm signal for the gardener. The edges of the loose leaves dry out and the fruits change shape. The last stage of the disease from a lack of nitrogen is the appearance of spots on the leaves and stems, more like lichen. These symptoms are caused by heavy rains that wash away beneficial substances from the soil.

It is difficult to get rid of yellowing onions on your own. To do this, you need to fertilize the soil with nitrogenous substances. There is no need to water the crop additionally.

You also can’t overdo it in this matter. It will not be possible to remove the amount of nitrogen back from the soil. As soon as the onion shoots have turned yellow, the soil around all affected plants is treated with a mixture prepared from:

• greens (any lush grass);
• straw or any dried hay;
• weed seeds;
• waste from vegetables and fruits.

All components are thoroughly mixed into a homogeneous mixture. The entire soil is fertilized with a margin of several meters. The mixture is diluted with water. Even rainwater collected during heavy rains is suitable for these purposes. You should not dilute the prepared mixtures with salt; it is better to add more waste from vegetables, fruits or grains to them.

Rot and heavy rains

The worm, which eats root crops, appears during periods of heavy rainfall. Watering is temporarily stopped, and the soil is constantly loosened. The top layers of soil serve as drainage. Loosened soil makes it much easier to get rid of excess moisture. After rainfalls, the soil around the onions is fertilized, restoring the amount of nitrogen in the soil. Otherwise, the bulbs will stop growing, and the growth of feathers will slow down significantly. Rooting of root crops occurs within a few days, and after that the crop can no longer be saved. It is important for the gardener not to miscalculate the timing of the fertilizer, otherwise all the time spent will go down the drain.

Plants rot from the rhizomes, especially if you water too much and too often. The stems turn yellow when the root crop is completely spoiled. Dry stems indicate damage to the future harvest. There is no point in saving such bulbs, so it is better to immediately dig up all the damaged material.

Unfavorable environmental conditions

It is difficult to guess the weather, because dry summer days are replaced by heavy rains. Depending on the region, moisture levels may rise sharply. Even an experienced gardener is unable to predict changes in the external environment.

Fertilizers, timely watering and leaf treatment protect the bulbs. The stems of the crop are washed at the beginning and end of the season. Before planting seedlings in the spring, the soil is pre-fertilized and saturated with moisture, nutrients and minerals.

Prevention in the garden

Preventive measures will help to anticipate the danger and eliminate it before the entire crop is damaged. Fertilizing the soil should be done before planting nigella or other varieties of onions. As it grows, the upper layers of the soil are fertilized with humus, dry hay and nitrogenous substances.

The leaching of the nitrogenous layer occurs quite often, and it is in the interests of the gardener to worry about the problem with the soil in advance. Prepared fertilizers will help strengthen the root crops and allow you to harvest good harvest at the end of summer. Onion crops are useful and easy to care for, and planting them should not cause difficulties for humans. Any possible problems can be resolved without any special financial costs.

Yellowed, drooping and dry onion feathers in the garden- a sad sight. It seems that they tips as if scorched by the sun... What’s the matter and whether it’s possible to save the harvest - we’ll figure it out today.

Three reasons for onion grief

Global reasons why do the tips of onion leaves turn yellow and dry?, three:

1. Diseases,
2. insect pests,
3. Lack of moisture and nutrients in the soil.

But this is all theory, but in practice it is worth understanding in detail what the plant lacks or what prevents it from growing. First of all, do a thorough inspection of the feathers and bulbs. Don't regret it - pull one copy out of the ground.

In detail: why onions dry out and turn yellow

1. It happens that onions are overcome by diseases:

• Bottom rot. The disease manifests itself during mass ripening of the bulbs. The main symptom: rapid death of leaves, which begins with drying of the apex (tips). At the same time, the roots of diseased plants rot.
• Downy mildew, or downy mildew. About a month after planting, light green or yellowish blurry spots appear on the leaves and flowers, covered with grayish-purple sporulation. Such plants stop growing, their leaves turn yellow and wither. Later, the spots increase in size and the leaves dry out prematurely.
• Rust on onion leaves appears as spotty yellowing, on the surface of which an orange coating forms. The spots then turn reddish-yellow. With severe damage, the leaves of bulbous crops dry out early.

As you can see, diseases in which onions begin to dry out and turn yellow have completely different symptoms. Take a closer look at the onion plantings in your beds. If you have identified symptoms of fusarium bottom rot, peronospora or rust, you need to immediately begin treating your “patient”.

2.Damage to an onion can be determined with the naked eye insect pests. They like to eat onions:

• Onion fly. Bulbs damaged by its larvae become soft, rot, and the leaves of the affected plant dry out and turn yellow.
• Tobacco thrips lives on plant leaves, damaging them. These insects suck the sap from the leaves, resulting in yellowish-brown spots strewn with black excrement. When the number of pests is high, the feathers of onions acquire a chlorotic appearance, become yellowed and dry out.
• The onion secretive proboscis gnaws passages in the tissues of leaves that are visible through the skin. As a result, the leaves become distorted and dry out.
• Onion leaf miner. These small flies feed on the sap of leaves, eating away their pulp. The damage looks like elongated spots, and the leaves become yellow, limp and finally dry out.

If during inspection of the feathers and bulbs you find signs of damage by any pest, it is clear here that What do we have to do: urgently start the fight before insects destroy the entire crop.

3. And finally, in hot, dry weather (no matter how much you water, it’s not enough), the tips of the onion’s feathers may begin to turn yellow and dry out. A lack of nitrogen in the soil also primarily affects onion leaves. So if you find that the feathers in your onion beds have turned yellow, and a thorough inspection reveals no signs of pests or diseases, it’s a nutritional issue!

In unfavorable conditions, it is difficult for young, actively growing onions to grow green mass. But you can help it, not only by watering, but also by feeding it.

The onions are turning yellow, what should I water them with? Folk remedies

Until the onion begins to grow green mass, it will remain yellow, gloomy and small. Abundant watering and enriching the soil with nitrogen will help cure the patient:

1. Yeast feeding has a beneficial effect on many vegetables, flowers, and fruit and berry crops. Loves yeast supplements and onions. This fertilizing improves the composition of the soil. Recipe: dilute 10 g of dry yeast in 10 liters of warm water, add 2 tbsp. spoons of sugar. Leave for 2 hours. Then the solution is diluted in 50 liters of water and watered onions if they turn yellow. It is worth considering that yeast feeding only works in warm soil, that is, in late spring or summer. Affordable and cheap product.

2. Watering the onions with ammonia: 3 tbsp. l. ammonia per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured under the roots of the onion in the evening. The easiest way to revive an onion is if the tips of its leaves turn yellow.

3. Watering with any nitrogen-containing fertilizer. Although not a folk one, it is the simplest remedy for solving the question: what to water onions if they turn yellow :) Sources of nitrogen for plants: ammonium nitrate, urea, complex fertilizers.

What to do if the onions in the garden turn yellow? Mini instructions

If the onions in the garden have turned yellow, first of all, what needs to be done:

1. Pull out one copy and examine it carefully.
2. If pests or diseases are detected, we begin immediate control of them. More details about insecticides and products that can be used to spray onions in each special case, you can read in country literature or on the Internet. The topic is very broad. We have discussed in detail the reasons why onions turn yellow and dry out (see above).
3. Watering and fertilizing with folk remedies or nitrogen-containing fertilizers will help replenish the lack of nutrients in the soil.
4. For prevention purposes, it is important to follow the rules for growing and caring for onions. In clean, well-groomed beds there is no place for pests and diseases. Often the source of infection is plant debris left on the beds after weeding or harvesting. Cleanliness is the key to health, even for plants!