What is a flat bottom boat? Do-it-yourself punt boat made of plywood: drawings, assembly features How to build a punt boat from wood
Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats made from one sheet of plywood
I present to your attention project, sketches and description of the technology for making a boat from a single sheet of plywood. The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 similar boats. If you do as written, avoiding long smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for the “not rich Pinocchio”, who also does not have the experience of a master carpenter for which his dad Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.
Basic materials needed to build a boat:
- coin (no matter what denomination or what country);
- waterproof plywood brand FSF - 1 sheet measuring 1500x3000 mm and thickness 4 mm;
- slats for sides: 3-meter with a section of 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
- meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
- slats for the bottom: 2.5-meter with a section of 20x40...50 mm - 2 pieces;
- 90-centimeter sections 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
- boards: semi-bulkhead - stop for a can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
- jar (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
- transom trim (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
- support for the rower's feet (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
- epoxy glue - 5 kg;
- dye;
- fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
- copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.
Tools: saw, drill with drills, clamps, plane, emery cloth.
P.S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (Fig. 1). I make these myself from stainless steel. So far there have been no complaints about their quality.
Technology for building a boat from one sheet of plywood
I want to say right away that we will build a boat with a flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.
1. Take a sheet of plywood and mark the bilge line and part of the transom of one starboard side according to the sketch using a strip (line ABC in Fig. 2). You can hammer nails into the “reference” points. The dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit; they could also be given in centimeters. Yes, and dimensional accuracy is not particularly needed here. A little more or less... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.
2. We cut out part of the transom and the right cheekbone along line ABC (see Fig. 2).
3. We place the resulting trimmed part (in Fig. 2 - the right side) on the left side, fasten the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not move out of place, and with its help, as if using a template, we mark the bottom separately and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the cutting operations carried out, we were left with two pieces from the plywood sheet, which will be used to make the sides, and the transom.
4. Along the edge of the stern, bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, we drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.
5. We fasten the transom to the bottom with wire (using holes).
6. Place the bottom on a stool and three chairs (Fig. 3). Using classical techniques and classical literature (“Queen Margot”, “War and Peace”) we create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired transom inclination. (It is good to place slats under the bottom, which will then go on the sides, especially if the plywood is 4 mm thick).
7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood we mark the contours of the side, taking into account the inclination of the transom. To do this, the blank for the side is pressed against the cheekbone of the bottom. For convenience, you can drill holes in the top of the transom and screw the workpiece to it with wire, but still, to mark the side, you will need an assistant who will hold the bow of the workpiece of the future side, and draw with a pencil the remaining line of contact between the workpiece and the bottom and the stem line with a pencil.
8. We cut out the side, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other side. We remove the resulting irregularities with a plane or, better yet, with a coarser piece of sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. They try to make the sides as identical as possible.
9. Along the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, we drill holes in increments of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, “Senezh”, which will significantly increase the service life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and sew the boat with copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm . We form the twists from the outside. Please note that when docking with the bottom, the side is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.
10. We upset and tap the wire of the paper clips with a hammer.
11. We insert the can and the bulkhead, temporarily securing them with screws, and glue the strips along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for oarlocks, are pre-cut on the side and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood side. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm away from the can (seat). We glue the brackets (structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting individual parts of the hull located at an angle to one another), fixing them temporarily with clamps, nails or screws on the “Flies”. “Fly” or “Crusk” is a wooden or plywood washer of any shape for a temporary nail (screw) to make it easier to remove later.
12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (top) strip is 50 mm. Before gluing these joints on the outside, the paper clips should be bitten off. Using a plane and sandpaper we smooth out the unevenness and round the cheekbone from the outside. We drill holes in the brackets so that an anchor rope, mooring line, fish tank, etc. can be tied to the ends. We finally glue the can, and attach a coin “for good luck” to the bottom with glue. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who don’t believe it. We glue the stop and strips under the legs and on the bottom to protect the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these strips across the inside of the body, and along the outside.
13. Cut and glue the board onto the transom.
14. We hammer dowels into all the holes left from the “temporary” screws and nails ( wooden nails), lubricated with epoxy. When the epoxy has hardened, the excess is cut off, and the location of the dowel is puttied and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for external surfaces. Just check if the anti-rot liquid used is compatible with this paint. In general, it is useful to read what is written on the paint can.
15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If you don’t have a drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole of a smaller diameter, and then widen it with some suitable piece of hardware. A stainless steel or brass tube of suitable diameter (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) approximately 70 mm long with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm is inserted into the resulting hole. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with fiberglass soaked in epoxy. The top of the tube is recessed flush with the side so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger in diameter than necessary, the inner rail will have to be thicker. It is desirable that these tubes be the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). You can raise the subkey higher with the help of a “pillow” - a block 30...40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with dowels. Then the tube should be taken in a straight line. It will be more convenient to row, but those who use nets claim that such a “cushion” gets in the way.
Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, and pipes. English boatbuilders recommend assembling an oar spindle from 14 slats of ash grown on open area southern slope, and only slats cut only from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a result that satisfied me by making a spindle and oar handle from a 2-meter beam with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam, but glued from an inch board, turned out to be better. As a blade, I inserted plywood measuring 400x200 mm and 6 mm thick into the spindle slot. At the blade, the spindle is extended to a diameter of 35 mm. In front of the handle I left the section square. It is easier to control an oar if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes lead is even put into the handles for this purpose. The paddle is 220 cm long, the blade is secured in the slot with glue and two homemade (made from wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades, but they cost 750 rubles, and the materials for the entire boat were only 625 rubles.
P.S. Don't forget to glue the coin.
What and why can be changed when building a boat
Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the pond, and every cm of sediment matters; the bottom can generally be made straight (without curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull water along with it and rowing will be difficult. In this case, it is better to make the bottom of a 120 cm wide boat wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.
If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but if its width is less than 70 cm, you won’t be able to shoot it and you will have to cast the spinning rod carefully. Especially if the water is cold!
For those interested build yourself a boat from one sheet of plywood, shaped like regular wooden keelboat, in Fig. Figure 4 shows the design of the “keel”, which is formed when the bottom is formed from two plywood blanks connected at an angle of 100°...120°.
Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, like the “optimist”, its carrying capacity and stability will increase. Three people can swim on it if you behave carefully. But rowing against the waves and wind, and also making your way through the reeds will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the bow, which will also increase the weight of the boat.
Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5 hp motor on it. s., but it is much safer to use a motor with a power of no more than 2 liters. With. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, this is additional weight.
Feed can. A constant stern bank, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems like a kilogram. You can store some things in jars in the form of boxes, but remember, in order to get something from there, you need to get up from the jar, and this is not always safe.
Keel. A similar fin in the stern of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, to keep the boat on course, but will be a hindrance when the boat moves away from the shore with a sandbank. Actually, I advise you to make a keel, but if it gets in the way, then the plane has already been invented, but I don’t advise you to make a keel with an axe.
Sail. For our boat, a sail, rudder and centerboard from an “optimist” are quite acceptable. The result will be a small “Ochakovskaya scow”.
However, when starting to modernize a boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole load of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a design for another boat. On the website, for example, there are a lot of them, and. The advantages of this project: minimal cost and labor intensity, absence of special requirements for the qualifications of the craftsman, and very satisfactory (!) consumer qualities of the boat.
What and with what can be replaced when building a boat
Plywood of the FSF brand will completely replace plywood of the FK brand, only the latter, after gluing, will have to be oiled with hot linseed oil and painted over more thoroughly. There are examples where, with careful care, boats made of such plywood served for many years. If there is no wood for slats coniferous species, then wood is quite suitable for such purposes hardwood. After all, you don’t have to go around Cape Horn, and in a few years, maybe even the birch slats won’t rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, and they last for many years. True, from hardwood it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks).
If there is no plywood of the required size, these or those can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom turns out to be shorter than required by only 20 cm, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit yourself to this length. I note that there is no need to tuck the edges of the plywood to be joined; it is easier and more reliable to simply glue them end to end. WITH inside on the joint, you will need to put a strip 10...15 mm thick and 5...7 cm wide, and a strip of fiberglass on the outside. Next, the joint is sewn together with wire, and if there is no wire, you can use thread or twine (preferably synthetic). Holes for the wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but larger, it’s okay, the epoxy will seal them up anyway.
What can you save on?
If there is a shortage of fiberglass, strips of it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will allow you to reliably seal the joint. If necessary, epoxy will be completely replaced by any waterproof glue, but at the same time, at the bottom along the cheekbone, you will need to glue a strip with a cross-section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with the sides on screws, placing the latter in increments of 100...150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the side (with a protrusion of about 5 mm over the edge), and then “removed”, that is, it is pulled through to fit tightly to the bottom.
The slats can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, after having coated them with paint). But then you will have to increase the cross-sectional dimensions of the slats by about a third, and the size of the booklets - by two times, cutting them out of boards at least 30 mm thick (it is known that a glued part works as one whole, and from knocked together parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seems to be together, eh...).
Good sub-clavicle locks can also be obtained from steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes too large diameter, then inserts from plastic bottles should be inserted into them. With such liners, the rowlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlock axles should not be greater than 12 mm, and less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.
Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without pressing, but simply end-to-end, placing one strip of fiberglass on the outside and a 20x50 mm strip on the inside.
Mistakes when building a boat
If your weight is 90 kg or more, the slats provided for in the project will not hold the bottom. It will bend downwards under your feet, and bend upwards with water (the draft has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease quite significantly, so in this case you will have to use thicker plywood for the bottom (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse slats (flora) with a cross-section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge in increments of 30 cm. Although one of my friends (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight to 80 kg. I lied, of course. However, the boat still serves, but he rarely fishes.
It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, it is impossible to lay the rail - bend it equally, using only three starting points. Therefore, to prevent the boat from turning out crooked, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, a crooked boat will also float on the water, but...!
Using nails when building a boat is faster and cheaper, and with the help of screws the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole for each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable oil). Otherwise, you won’t be able to unscrew this screw later. When attaching slats to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a regular meat grinder. After all, it’s difficult to hold the slats with your hands properly. To fasten the planks, it is better to take larger screws 20...25 mm long with a semicircular head for a flat-blade screwdriver. And place “flies” or metal washers under them.
They begin to fasten the slats from any selected point, subsequently acting in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to begin fastening the outer slats from the middle, and the inner slats from the transom). In this case, nails (screws) are installed in a row, since otherwise “bubbles” may result. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when attaching symmetrical slats to the sides, nails are hammered alternately into the slats on one side, then into the slats on the other.
You cannot “save” epoxy by applying too thin a layer of resin to the surfaces to be bonded. In this case, the epoxy will simply be absorbed into the wood and nothing will remain on the adhesive layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g per 3-meter strip or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Apply epoxy with a brush or spatula; if, after compressing the parts to be glued, excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, if you hurry, you can use the “extra” resin to glue the seams, apply it to the body instead of varnish, and fill the holes from knots. Based on own experience, I can say that usually it is not possible to use more than 200 g of resin at a time (and this despite the fact that everything is ready for assembly). In a word, hurry up! Otherwise the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in a jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. On the standard packaging of epoxy it is written that you need to work with it with gloves, so don’t skimp on them. Well, if you don’t have gloves, then first lubricate your hands with oil, preferably vegetable oil, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talcum powder or flour, so as not to stain the parts being glued with greasy hands. Or you can simply soap your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands from resin using vegetable oil and a rag, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if you soap them, dry them, and wash them with soap and water after work.
Your safety when building the boat and then!
Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different types of hardeners, but the ones I came across included cyanide. I hope everyone has heard about the properties of potassium cyanide.
Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy reserve is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with its load. So it is useful to have pieces of foam or plastic bottles with a capacity of at least 10/7. It is best to place them under the can on the bow side in a bag, which should be securely tied to the boat - on lifeboats Under the seats there used to be sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air. In the stern it is good to have a foam plate 5...10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a seat for a passenger, and also for buoyancy. And it’s convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather by placing the same foam board on the jar (on which, by the way, it’s warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag for the stove from an old shirt. The bag with this plate must be tied to the jar. And it is more convenient to tie the stern plate to the footrest.
The distance from the edge of the can to the footrest is average and is 70 cm, but it is wiser to glue the footrest at a distance that is convenient for you.
Remember also that the boat is twice as heavy as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if handled carelessly. In fact, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to capsize at all. However, this is not at all true.
Fiberglass fabric is impregnated (oiled) at the manufacturer to prevent glass dust from flying off it. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do using an electric hot plate with an open spiral. I warm the fabric until the smoke stops coming out. You can also burn the fabric in the oven. electric stove, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! There is no need to anneal special shipbuilding fabric; the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I’ll tell you the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.
A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogues made of PVC and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - it was used to transport bulky cargo and people through the water. Despite the emergence of a large number of models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a watercraft can not only be purchased, but also made with your own hands.
More details about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types there are, what its pros and cons are, as well as how to make such a boat yourself will be discussed in this article.
Device
The craft consists of the following:
- of two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
- flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
- rectangular stern (transom).
To transport people and control the boat, 2–3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing accessories are stored in a box with a locking lid mounted on the stern. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.
Most modern models have a pointed or narrowed bow shape, due to which such a boat acquires better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), and has less windage in strong headwinds.
You can move around on a punt either with the help of oars or with mounted screw or water-jet engines mounted on the stern.
Species
Depending on the material used to make the punt, they come in the following types:
Wooden is the classic version of this boat. Wooden boats are made independently from softwood boards (spruce, pine) and plywood. The disadvantage of such watercraft is their considerable weight, which is why fishermen who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby body of water.
A wooden boat must be made from boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, without cracks or falling knots
Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece structure made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, and ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat yourself. Its price, compared to inflatable analogues, is slightly lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility when low temperatures and very complex DIY repairs.
Plastic models should only be used in warm time years - in cold weather and frosts their body becomes fragile and easily damaged
Metal – such boats are made from aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. Having low weight and constant strength of the body material, independent of air and water temperatures, they can be used freely throughout the entire open water season.
An aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sailing on the sea - the lightweight design can easily capsize in a big wave
Advantages and Disadvantages
If you ask yourself which boat is better - a keel or a flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages, such as:
- Sustainability thanks to large area When the craft comes into contact with water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to side waves and wind compared to its keel counterpart;
- High maneuverability and carrying capacity - having a shallow draft, such boats allow you to transport up to 5-6 people with a length of 4 m, while moving through shallow water areas;
Just a note. By installing an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays and swamps. The design of the unit and the material used to make its propeller allow it to chop up grass that gets in its way and not get clogged with dirt.
- Light weight - plastic and aluminum punts weigh significantly less than wooden and some inflatable boats;
- Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands having minimum set tools and materials. The cost of such a watercraft will be significantly lower than the factory model.
The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.
Thanks to its shallow draft, the punt's maneuverability in shallow waters is higher than that of any boat or keelboat
Making a punt with your own hands
Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, purchasing materials, preparing the necessary tools, making a bottom, sides, stern from a board, fastening them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics and resin.
Materials and tools
Required tools:
- Jigsaw.
- Roulette.
- Square.
- Marker.
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, and waterproof paint.
Drawing up a drawing
In order to build a punt boat from planks yourself, you must first of all make clear and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: the sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the need for materials is calculated: boards, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.
The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be visual and understandable - an error in dimensions during the manufacture of the watercraft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.
Making the bottom
Several boards are placed tightly to each other, and the contour of the bottom is drawn on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn together in the middle with the longest cross member, after which using a jigsaw or manual circular saw the bottom is cut out along the outlined contour, leaving uncut areas at the bow and stern.
In the bow and stern parts, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and nylon cord
By tightening the bottom with crossbars, we achieve minimal gaps between its boards
Installation of bow and stern boards
After the bottom is cut to the bow using rough nails or self-tapping screws, a block - the bow board - is attached at a close to right angle. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.
Close to right angle fastening the bow board will allow you to evenly distribute the force of the oncoming flow of water acting on the bow as the boat moves
Fastening to the bottom of the sides
The first two boards on the right and left sides are first nailed to the bow board, then bent along the contour of the bottom and tied together with a strong cord at the stern. After this, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.
When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord
To fasten subsequent boards parallel to the crossbars, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom.
To prevent the sides from moving, the boards of the starboard and port sides are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the starboard or port side completely.
With a boat length of 3.5–4 meters, it is necessary to have at least 2 bulkheads to which the side boards are sewn
Treatment of the bottom and sides
All cracks in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the wood of the bottom from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.
Flat-bottomed plywood boat
A ring for a chain or mooring rope is installed in the bow.
A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.
A punt boat is made from plywood using a simpler technology than its analogue from boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and a bow are cut out of a sheet of plywood using a jigsaw. Then, using special glue, first the right side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the stern part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow part is attached at an obtuse angle (120–130°). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the craft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is coated with two layers of waterproof paint or resin.
Such a boat, compared to one made from boards, has such advantages as light weight, low costs for purchasing materials, and ease of manufacture.
The following video will tell you more about how such a punt boat is made with your own hands:
Just a note. Punts are not only homemade, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as “SAVA” 270, “SAVA” 370, Liman”, “Tortilla-2”, “Kazanka 6M” are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more spacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.
Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keel boats. It is made from both boards and moisture-resistant plywood. Except homemade boats, available for sale large selection factory models of punts made of plastic and aluminum.
However, the main dimensions of the vessel do not give a complete idea of the shape of its hull. The exact same information about the shape of the body is given by theoretical drawing which is performed, as a rule, in three projections. In order to obtain these projections, the ship's hull is dissected by three mutually perpendicular planes: diametral (DP); main (OP), or water level plane (load waterline); cross-sectional plane, or simply a midship frame. In accordance with the secant plane on which the image of the vessel is formed, the projection is called side (on the center plane), half-latitude (on the load waterline) or hull (on the midship frame). The reference planes on the basis of which the theoretical drawing of the vessel is obtained are shown in Fig. 2.
However, the projections obtained by cutting the body with only three main planes (Fig. 2) are clearly not enough to depict the shape of the body in detail, so another five to ten planes are drawn parallel to the main planes, the intersection of which with the body gives a number of projections. So, when the hull intersects with planes parallel to the DP, the contours of the vessel are obtained, called buttocks, parallel to the OP - waterlines, parallel - frames. Moreover, each of the projections on two planes has the form of straight lines, and on the third - an actual shape. Such theoretical drawings are necessary in cases where the housings have rounded shapes. For, in which both the bottom and sides are formed by the skin, the theoretical drawing is reduced to the projection of the lines of the keel, chine, upper edge of the side and outlines of the frames (Fig. 3).
The methods for constructing a theoretical drawing are common to any vessel, including a punt, so every shipbuilder should know the principles of its construction.
The choice of basic dimensions, as well as the shape of the hull, is the main and most difficult issue when designing a vessel. Solving this issue requires knowledge of the basics of ship theory (there is such a science) and the widespread use of statistical material. The simplest and surest way to make your work easier is to use ready-made drawings of a suitable boat. You can analyze the characteristics of a number of boats as analogues and try to create your own design based on them. In any case, it is very useful to build a 1:10 or 1:5 scale model of the boat. In the process of creating such a model, a homemade shipbuilder will delve into the construction technology, see the future boat not only in the drawing plane, but also in space, and receive an additional incentive to build the boat and confidence in the success of the enterprise.
Table 1 shows the characteristics of common rowing boats.
| Table 1. Rowing boats | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Character ristics |
Boat type | |||||
| "Bull-2" | "Berezka" | "Okhtinka" | "Fofan-F2" | "Nerd" | "Wave" | |
| Body contours* | ABOUT | ABOUT | ABOUT | ABOUT | |_| | o_o |
| Length, m | 3,58 | 3,98 | 3,94 | 4,6 | 4 | 2,8 |
| Width, m | 1,48 | 1,14 | 1,17 | 1,22 | 1,27 | 1,04 |
| Side height, m | 0,50 | 0,47 | 0,39 | 0,47 | 0,38 | 0,28 |
| Weight, kg | 105 | 80 | 87 | 100 | 90 | 17 |
| Capacity, persons | 3 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 2 |
| Housing material | Glass- plastic |
Birch veneer on glue | Boards | Boards | Boards and plywood | Prore- zine fabric |
| Oars, pairs | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| Set- tion (payolas, scoops) |
+ | + | + | + | + | + |
| * According to the contours of the hull, ships are divided into rounded ( symbol ABOUT); U-shaped (U); V-shaped (V); flat-bottomed (|_|); sea sleigh (W); longitudinally and transversely stepped, or stepped (G); inflatable (o_o). | ||||||
From Table 1 it can be seen that the boats, despite the large difference in length, have almost the same width, which is caused by the need to install oarlocks at the optimal distance for rowing. The fact is that working with oars, for example. When the rowlocks are placed closer to each other, as on an inflatable boat, the “Volna” becomes less effective. The length of the two-seater boat “Okhtinka” is almost equal to the length of the three-seater boats “Bychok-2”, “Beryozka” and “Botnik”. Thus, we can conclude that there is simply nothing more convenient than a small, lightweight, simple punt boat with a hull sheathed from boards. I came to this conclusion several years ago when I was trying to solve a similar problem. Then I came across a description of the “Dragonfly” motor boat, which differed from other boats in that its bow was somewhat “cut off”, as a result of which it became shorter by about one spacing (the distance between the frames), the chine approached the upper stern of the side at a considerable distance from center plane, the slight deadrise of the bow end of the hull turned into an almost flat bottom in the midship frame area. As stated in the description, the “Dragonfly” motor boat is designed for sailing on rivers and small lakes with an outboard motor with a capacity of 10...12 liters. With. I built such a boat entirely from sheets of D16 aluminum alloy 2 mm thick, and I also made the Z-shaped frames from these sheets. All connections are riveted. The seams were sealed with thickly ground white lead. The boat turned out wonderful. The two of us are on it with a 20 hp Whirlwind outboard motor. With. developed a speed of about 45...50 km/h. The boat moved quite well under oars, was maneuverable and had good stability. Its characteristics: length – 3550 mm; width – 1400 mm; side height – 450 mm; weight – 75...80 kg. In general, it turned out to be a good universal boat for two for sailing under oars or with an outboard motor. Theoretical drawing boat "Dragonfly" is shown in Fig. 3, and the values of the plaza ordinates are in Table 2. Let us recall that the plaza is the place where a theoretical life-size drawing of the ship is drawn, after which templates are made from the drawn parts, according to which the ship parts are made.
| Table 2. Plaza ordinates of the motor boat “Dragonfly” | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Frame No. | Height from Op, mm | Half-latitude from DP, mm | |||
| Keel | Cheekbone | Board | Cheekbone | Board | |
| 1 | 320 | 340 | 370 | 330 | 350 |
| 2 | 90 | 200 | 415 | 460 | 560 |
| 3 | 30 | 110 | 445 | 540 | 660 |
| 4 | 10 | 60 | 455 | 600 | 690 |
| 5 | 0 | 35 | 455 | 640 | 695 |
| 6 | 0 | 25 | 440 | 670 | 670 |
| 7 | 0 | 25 | 420 | 670 | 610 |
| 8 | 0 | 25 | 405 | 670 | 560 |
Please note that Table 2 does not show the plaza ordinates of the deck of the Dragonfly motor boat, which covered the first three spaces. The theoretical drawing shows the deck. It can be seen that it has an inclination towards the bow of the boat hull. The fact is that while moving, the bow of a motor boat rises somewhat and takes a horizontal position when the boat is planing.
Knowing the driving performance of the “Dragonfly” motor boat, taking into account the simplicity of its design and the manufacturability of construction from sheet material, in its likeness a rowing boat was built with a wooden frame and plywood hull lining with Lgb equal to 3050 mm. The theoretical drawing of the “Dragonfly” was slightly changed (Fig. 4). The plasma ordinates are summarized in Table 3.
| Table 3. Plaza ordinates of a two-seater rowing boat | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Frame No. | Height from Op, mm | Half-latitude from DP, mm | |||
| Keel | Cheekbone | Board | Cheekbone | Board | |
| 1 | 400 | 430 | 450 | 330 | 350 |
| 2 | 140 | 270 | 450 | 440 | 500 |
| 3 | 50 | 150 | 450 | 530 | 610 |
| 4 | 0 | 30 | 450 | 600 | 700 |
| 5 | 0 | 30 | 450 | 600 | 700 |
| 6 | 0 | 30 | 450 | 580 | 680 |
| 7 | 10 | 40 | 450 | 530 | 630 |
| 8 | 70 | 100 | 450 | 470 | 570 |
As is known, according to the mode of movement, boats are divided into four types: floating, moving in transitional mode, planing and moving on hydrofoils. Since our rowboat was supposed to float and not plan, we raised the bottom at the stern a little. Otherwise (with a flat bottom at the stern and a wide transom), when the boat moves behind its stern, a passing flow of water would form, capable of providing significant resistance to the movement of the boat. For the same purpose, as well as to improve the maneuverability of the boat, the camber of the sides at the stern is similar to the camber on the fourth frame of the Dragonfly hull. We shortened the boat by 50 cm, and the side height became the same along the entire length of the boat. The steepness of the bow of the keel - the stem, as well as the deadrise of the bottom in the bow of the boat were increased. In terms of its dimensions, our boat became similar to the inflatable two-seater boat “Volna”.
Here are the characteristics of our boat: length – 3050 mm; width – 1400 mm; side height – 450 mm; weight – 60...70 kg.
Our boat moved well under the oars. It turned out to be quite spacious and very convenient for fishing. It was not forbidden to install an outboard motor with a power of 5...8 liters. pp., for example, “Surf” or “Veterok-8”.
For a solo DIYer who prefers to relax on the water without companions, we recommend shortening the boat by one spacing, that is, by 50 cm. Then the length of the boat will be 2550 mm, and the result will be a good single-seater boat.
For both a two-seater boat and a single-seater, a slight decrease in half-latitude is permissible, for example, by 100 mm. As a result, the width of the boats will be 1200 mm, which is comparable to the width of the boats “Berezka”, “Okhtinka”, “Fofan-F2” and “Botnik” (see table 1).
So, we have decided on the outline of the boat's hull. Now you can start
We are building a plywood boat from seven parts.
A small article about the Jack Sprat, (), attracted the attention of our team of yachtsmen. I really liked the boat for its compactness (2.3x1.3 m), fairly large capacity - in the photograph there were four adults and two children in it, and simplicity of manufacturing technology.
We took as a basis those given in the article overall dimensions tuzik and within a week they made a similar one plywood boat.
The boat was built using sheets of ordinary construction plywood 4 mm thick, glued together (a miter joint was used) to a length of 2400 mm. From these, in accordance with the sketches provided, sheathing blanks were cut out.
General view of the boat (a), cutting of the transoms (b), section along the midship frame (c) and sketch of the oar (d)
Cut out the outer sheathing sheets.
enlarge, 1303x993, 120 KB
The body assembly looked like this. Having laid the bottom blank on the floor and the corresponding edges to it - the blanks of the zygomatic girdles, we connected them together. First, the blanks are connected approximately in the middle of the length of the boat using copper wire clips with a diameter of 1.5 mm. Then, gradually bringing the edges together, the same clips are sequentially placed in the bow and stern along the entire length of the cheekbone. At the extremities, the shape of the hull is determined by the bow and stern transoms.
Holes with a diameter of 2 mm for paper clips must be drilled in advance in increments of 100-120 mm along a line knocked out at a distance of 8-10 mm from the edge of the workpiece processed to a clean size. It is better to twist the ends of the wire with outside housing as shown in the sketch.
The sequence of making connections along the grooves of the casing:
a - placing wire clips and crimping them; b - the groove is ready for laying internal fiberglass tapes; c - diagram of the arrangement of tapes in the connection
In the same way, the side blanks were attached to the zygomatic belts of the skin. Staples were also used to connect the skin to the transoms.
Then all connections were glued from the inside in two or three layers with fiberglass tapes. After the epoxy resin had cured and the ends of the staples had been removed, the same strips of fiberglass were applied to the grooves on the outside of the housing. When the transverse cans and bow book (120X120) were inserted, and the fenders were glued along the upper edges of the sides, the hull acquired the necessary rigidity. The bottom was reinforced with thin pine strips glued to the plywood from the inside.
As it turned out, for the convenience of assembling the body using this method, it is best to use plywood of the same thickness everywhere, as provided by Jack Holt, the author of the tuzik. To increase the moisture resistance and durability of the plywood body, we pasted it on the outside with two layers of thin fiberglass on epoxy resin. A “false keel” with a section of 50x6 was glued to the bottom. A small fin was installed in the stern to increase stability on course. Styrofoam blocks were secured under the cans. The total weight of the boat turned out to be 35 kg.
Four years of operation of the boat as an onboard tug on the yacht “Vityaz” confirmed its high performance. It was also used quite successfully under the Salyut engine.
We think that by slightly reducing the side height, and, consequently, reducing the weight (this will be especially noticeable if waterproof plywood is used), a boat of this type can also be recommended to motorists for transportation on the top trunk of a minicar.
A.K. Kartsev, “Boats and yachts”, 1979, No. 01(077).
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Sail on the Chizhik.
A mast with a sail installed on a regular rowing boat does not yet turn it into a real sailboat. In addition to the sail and spar with rigging, allowing you to set the sail and control it, you need a rudder with an increased area of the feather and, of course, a centerboard or centerboards that keep the boat from excessive lateral drift (drift) during lateral and, especially, courses steep to the wind - at an angle of up to 40-50° towards the wind.
The placement of the crew, and therefore the arrangement of the cans, on a sailing boat is always different from that on a rowing or motor boat: the crew must tilt the boat, counteracting the heeling pressure of the wind, and for this people need to be placed along the side. In addition, the dimensions and shape of the boat's hull must correspond to sailing conditions, i.e., be designed for movement at a relatively low speed.
“Chizhik” (see “KYa” No. 24) was designed as a rowing boat with the possibility of using a low-power outboard motor: naturally, the design of the boat was designed specifically for these use cases. So, on the “Chizhik” a longitudinal middle bank for the rower was arranged; thanks to this, it is possible to give the boat an optimal trim depending on the number of passengers, there is free space for passage along the boat, and on the sides of this can you can sleep on the fir trees. However, this same can is not at all needed on the “Chizhik” - a dinghy.
Basic data of the Chizhik boat
Maximum length 3.47m
Maximum width 1.47 m
Side height 0.5m
Load capacity 300kg
Power up to 5 PM, l. With.
To transform the “Chizhik” into a sailing boat, corresponding changes in the design of its hull are necessary, so readers of the collection interested in this issue are offered two options:
Option 1 - most fully takes into account the requirements for a sailing and rowing boat, but provides for significant changes in the original design. This option is best implemented by those who are just planning to build “Chizhik”;
Option 2 is a compromise solution that involves a minimum of changes to a finished boat, built according to the original drawings.
In option 1, equipment is required for a centerboard well, a transverse and two side cans in the cockpit, and fastening of removable parts - the mast and rudder. The hull of the boat is built according to the original design, but the side stringer is brought to the shank. 1. Instead of a longitudinal can, a centerboard well is installed, which is a narrow box, open only at the bottom, secured with screws and glue above the slot for the centerboard in the keel. The well is secured by a transverse can, resting on the side stringer.
The walls of the well and the flooring of the can are cut from waterproof plywood 6 mm thick. Final assembly the well is made after attaching the vertical posts to the shp from the inside. 2. On the Chizhik, it is the well that is closed at the top that is convenient - through the open well (involuntarily it would have to be made low), with any significant waves, water would begin to splash into the boat.
Alyosha" is the first dinghy based on the Chizhik, built in Gus-Khrustalny by V. Zhirnov.
The hull is manufactured exactly according to the drawings given in No. 24 “KYA”. A rigid canister is placed across the hull, securing the centerboard well. The stern fin is made higher, up to 120 mm, on the transom. The dinghy is armed with a sloop with a sail area of about 6 m2. Full Height mast, fastened with a forestay (st. rope diameter 3) and shrouds with screw turnbuckles, - about 8 m from the steps. The mast and boom (2.0 m) are glued together from pine slats and have a sealed groove. The boom-sheet cable strap is hung on the transom. A block with a diameter of 25 mm slides along the shoulder strap; the sheet is passed through a block approximately in the middle of the boom and a foot block attached to the bottom.
Due to the tourist purpose of the boat, it is necessary to use a centerboard; simpler fixed - “sticking” centerboards cause hard impacts when colliding with underwater obstacles and are inconvenient, and sometimes even dangerous, when sailing in an unfamiliar area.
The centerboard rotates on an axis, the cheeks of which are attached with screws to the outside of the keel to avoid drilling holes in the lower part of the centerboard well. The centerboard is rotated using a rod made of a metal rod or a thick-walled tube with a diameter of 20 mm, riveted to its rear edge (do not forget to put a plug in the tube!). The rod must be very carefully bent around a circle with a radius of 250 mm (along the axis). At its exit from the centerboard well, a seal made of microporous rubber about 10 mm thick is installed, pressed with a metal pad. The hole in the rubber should be smaller in diameter than the rod. The centerboard is raised and lowered by a pusher made of a 4X30 metal strip, hinged to the rod with an M8 screw. At the stern end of the pusher, it is advisable to install a handle in the form of a wooden ball (the idea of this design was borrowed from an old dinghy).
The leading and trailing edges of the centerboard should be sharpened, and it is advisable to fasten a protective brass strip 1 mm thick along the leading edge. The easiest to use are removable side cans, supported by a side stringer, a thrust block on the bulkhead of the aft locker, and a strip of plywood under the transverse can. They are held in place by rotary fasteners, the same as the floor fasteners. Under the longitudinal banks, foam buoyancy blocks must be securely attached to the boat hull.
The steering wheel consists of a steering block and a lifting feather. The block is assembled using glue and bolts with a diameter of 5-6 mm from three layers of bakelized plywood. The middle part, 12 mm thick, has a sector cutout for the rudder blade. The side cheeks are 8 mm thick. The tiller is attached to the block using a metal clip bent from a sheet. The steering loops are cut out of a square with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm or bent from a strip and attached to the block with screws with a diameter of 6 mm. The pins (from M8 bolts with cut heads) are screwed into the threads of the hinge holes and riveted. The lower pin must be about 20 mm longer than the upper one, otherwise the steering wheel will be difficult to install in place. The parts of the steering loops attached to the transom are also cut out from a square and installed on through MB bolts.
The rudder blade is cut from 12 mm thick bakelized plywood and, just like the daggerboard, is sharpened along the edges and protected by a rudder. The axis of the feather is an M8 bolt, the tightening of which is adjusted so that the raised feather is held due to friction against the cheeks of the block. The upper part of the steering wheel blade should be sanded so that it fits freely into the slot of the block. The pen is lowered into the water directly by hand; For this purpose, a lever with a handle is provided on its rear edge. To protect against jumping out of the hinges, the steering wheel is fixed with a flat spring fixed above the lower steering loop.
On the transom of the boat on the starboard side, at a distance of 400 mm from the DP, a second pair of steering loops is installed, onto which the rudder is hung when rowing. This is very convenient for the helmsman, since the tiller moves freely under the right hand and does not rest against the back; rudder displacement has virtually no effect on the boat's handling.
Equipment of "Chizhik" with centerboard and steering gear
1 - frame made from 1X30 strip; 2-rudder feather, buckplywood 6 = 12; 3 - handle for lifting the pen; 4- steering block; 5 - tiller, 40X40; 6 - main sheet; 7 - boom clip, 6 = 2 mm; 8- weft for halyard; 9- clip made of 3X40 strip, fasten to the beam with M 6 through bolts; 10- step pad, 6 = 2 mm with a rectangular hole for the mast spur; 11- sealing hole for rod 12; 12 - rod from a tube 0 20 mm; 13 - centerboard axis - pin 0 12 mm; 14 - centerboard, buckplywood 6 = 12; 15-cheeks of the centerboard axis, 6 = 2.5 mm; 16- well wall; plywood 6=6; 17 - stand (key) of the well 25X60; 18 - gunwale-plug well 25X30; 19 - tiller clip, 6 = 2; 20 - side cheeks of the block, back plywood 6=8; 21 - steering loop; 22- plywood gasket 6 = 6; 23 - centerboard thrust; 24 side bench seats; 25 - rudder position when rowing.
The mast blank is glued out of three or four pine bars of the required length. The cross-section of the mast is above the cockpit coaming and up to approximately half the height - a circle with a diameter of 70 / l / l. Above this level, the front and side edges are smoothly planed to a section at the top of 40X50, below - to a section at the spur of 30 X 50 ( larger size in both cases along the DP).
Option with swivels
1 - forging 20X2; 2 - keel 25X80; 3 - base of the well 20 X 60; 4 - cutout for the centerboard pusher; 5 - well stand 20X60; 6 - well gunwale 25X30; 7 - from the well, 6 = 6; 8 - stiffening rib of the transverse can 20X30; 9 - can flooring, 6=6; 10 - coaming, plywood 4X50; 11 - carleygs, 20X 25; 12 - fender beam, 18X30; 13 - can support block, 18X30; 14 - toptimbers 6 = 20; 15 - zygomatic stringer, 18X30; 16 - sheathing, 6=4; 17- flortimbers 6 = 20; 18-bottom runner 20X30.
The simplest boom swivel.
1 - boom; 2- M5 screw, 2 pcs; 3 - strip b=6 to embed into the boom; 4.6 - M8 bolts; 5 - washer 8; 7 – bracket, fasten to the mast with two 5X32 screws; 8 – clip b=2.
Option for a boat with fenders.
1-shvertsa forging, X40, brass; 2-shverts, back plywood 6=15/16; 3-weed; 4-bearing; 5-holder made of steel, diameter 3; 6-support bar; 7-longitudinal seat; 8 - transverse bank 6=6; 9-pine lining; 10-check; 11 - bent axle; 12-circlip.
A pulley for the halyard is cut into the top of the mast; The boom swivel and halyard cleat are attached below. Along the trailing edge of the mast, a rail for the mainsail sliders is fastened with screws through a 5X10 rail - a carefully aligned 2X20 metal strip.
The mast spur fits into a step socket 25 mm deep, cut out at the rear of the stem, and reinforced with a 2 mm thick metal bracket placed on top with a rectangular hole cut into it for the spur to pass through. The finished mast, like all parts of the spar, is coated with colorless varnish (oil or pentaphthalic). There is no standing rigging - shrouds and stays are not needed; The mast, along with the boom and sail, can be easily removed from the boat. If necessary, the mast can be made collapsible. In this case, the upper and lower parts of the mast are connected by a coupling made of metal pipe with a wall thickness of about 2 mm. A 400mm long coupling is attached with screws or through bolts to the top of the mast; to fix correct position connecting parts of the mast, a screw with a diameter of MB is screwed into the lower part, and a slot approximately 20 mm deep is made in the coupling. In the area of the coupling, the rail for the mainsail sliders is fastened with short M4 screws screwed into threaded holes.
It is better to glue a boom with a cross-section of 30 X 60 from two pine bars according to the thickness. Towards the ends, the boom is planed along the lower edge to a height of 40 mm.
When equipped according to the second option, the boat is no longer equipped with a centerboard, but with hinged centerboards. On both sides in the shp area. 2, on the inside of the skin, a support block is installed for the transverse canister (cut on the frame), and on the outside, a block is installed to support the hinges. The transverse can is attached to these support bars at the side and to the longitudinal can. Below deck on both sides of the beam shp. 2, cushions for the bearings of the hinges are installed.
The doors are cut from bakelized plywood 15-16 mm thick, their vertical edges are sharpened, and protective shanks are placed on them. Top part The screw is put on an axle made of a steel bar with a diameter of 16 mm, bent at a right angle. In the axle cage, the axle is fixed with a stopper in the form of an MB screw without a head, screwed into the axle and running into the slots of the cage. The screw axis is inserted into the deck bearing and secured in it with a rotary pin. The transverse movements of the axle in the bearing are limited by a piece of tube riveted to it, from which the cage bushing was made. The shverts are raised by weeds, which are laid on the ducks inside the boat.
The design of the mast, boom and rudder is the same as in option 1, but it is recommended to reduce the sail area by 1 m2, taking into account the fact that the centerboard area is smaller than the centerboard, and the possibilities for tilting the boat due to the different arrangement of the cans are somewhat worse.
Making sailing rigs is a rather complex and time-consuming task, but the pleasure of sailing will, without a doubt, more than pay for this work. However, it must be warned that steering a sailboat, even one as small as the Chizhik, requires special training for the helmsman. The best way to learn sailing is at a yacht club.
At self-study In the art of sailing, basic safety rules must be strictly observed:
Don't overload the boat; do not take on board people who cannot swim and small children;
When sailing, the crew must always wear life jackets;
Monitor the weather carefully; if there is a danger of a squall, immediately remove the sail and sit down at the oars;
You cannot sail when the wind is stronger than 4 points, and in the beginning, with insufficient experience, no more than 3 points;
Never lay the sheets on the cleat; always keep the halyard bay clean - ready for lowering the sail;
When going out sailing, check if you have forgotten to take the oars;
Until you have gained confidence in your abilities, do not leave the area where you may receive assistance.
immediate assistance in case of capsize.
A boat is an indispensable thing if you want to go fishing or just spend time with friends or family on the river. This is a great device for a walk or even a whole water adventure that you can do yourself.
If you are interested in the technology by which you make a punt boat from plywood with your own hands, the drawings presented in this article and the recommendations will be useful to you in your work.
Making a simple boat from plywood is the most budget method get a boat. To do this, you just need to stock up on everything you need, including tools and drawings, as well as show a little patience and diligence. Otherwise, making such a product will not be difficult for you, the main thing is to strictly follow the prepared drawing.
What do you need for work?
The material on which the structure is created is, of course, plywood. It consists of veneer layers glued with phenolic glue, which are pressed in production. There are several types, but not every type of plywood is suitable for making a boat with your own hands.
Pay attention! The highest quality and waterproof plywood is marked FSF. It is usually made of birch veneer. When using it, you can achieve reliability and quality from your future product. As a result, you will spend significantly less effort on sanding and finishing your boat.
If for some reason you are unable to obtain quality plywood trademark When buying low-quality products, pay special attention to the execution of the end parts on the sheets. The absence of through cracks, knots, holes and defects is a sign of a standing material.
The quality of the chosen plywood will depend on:
- the quality level of the product itself;
- performance characteristics of the boat;
- cost of finishing work;
- time spent on finishing work;
- volumes of required material;
- number of seams in the finished boat.
Therefore, you must treat your choice with maximum responsibility. Some parts of your flat-bottomed boat may require blocks or boards, preferably dry and completely free of any flaws or damage.
To cover the boat, fiberglass is used, sold in rolls. You can cut it into pieces required size, which will be convenient for gluing joints and seams. A solid piece will be more appropriate for processing the bottom.
Varnish, glue and paint are used to protect the boat from moisture. It is best if the varnish is ship-grade and the paint is not water-based.
To make brackets for your boat, you can use plastic clamps and copper wire. Any other material will also work, which can then be easily removed.
List of tools:
- electric jigsaw and a set of files for it;
- sander;
- hammer and plane;
- clamp;
- tape measure for measurements, a metal ruler and a simple pencil for marking;
- brushes for applying varnish and glue;
- spray gun for working with paint;
- a spatula that will help level the fiberglass during the gluing procedure.
Boat manufacturing work: splicing method
After you have selected the appropriate drawings, prepared everything necessary tools, you can start making the boat.
Pay attention! In the event that you cannot find the plywood of the size required for your boat, it can be joined together using plywood miter splicing technology.
Sheet splicing technology:
- Sheets of material must be laid on top of each other, a line must be marked (its length is ten to twelve thicknesses of a plywood sheet).
- To obtain an even and high-quality result, it is recommended to secure the material using clamps and a limit bar. It is along this bar that the mustache will be formed. Make sure that you do not have sharp changes in the length of this line.
- The formed mustache must be sanded with a machine to an ideal state, constantly combining and adjusting the sheets.
- Apply to the mustache area adhesive composition, after which plywood sheets it is necessary to stack the treated surfaces on top of each other and secure them with clamps, placing weights on top to ensure complete gluing.
- Excess glue must be removed immediately, without waiting for it to dry.
- After the glue has dried, you can remove the clamps and leave the product alone for 24 hours until the glue completely hardens.
The remaining glue must be sanded off with sandpaper to even out the seam and make it less noticeable.
First, you need to mark the bottom on plywood, first laying it out on a flat surface. Based on your drawing, draw the centerline of the boat, after which you can place a grid on the basis of which the contours of the future product are marked.
To ensure a tight fit of the joints, chamfers can be made at the edges of the plywood junction. Suitable for this grinding machine. After this, you can sew the parts together using staples and clamps. The procedure should begin from the stern, gradually moving to the bow of the boat, slowly bending the plywood. Both the sides and the transom are secured.
The next stage is checking the geometric dimensions of the structure. After which you need to tighten the clamps more tightly, place spacers in the places where the frames are mounted to fix all the parts.
The seams are glued from the inside of the product. To do this, you need to take glue and fiberglass, which must be cut in advance into strips 7 cm wide. Using a brush, apply the adhesive to the joint, glue the fiberglass and level it with a spatula, removing bubbles and wrinkles. The seams need to be taped two or three times.
