The largest Russian stove in the world. The most original home stoves. What is used to heat a Russian stove?
The world's largest oven with its own appearance And internal structure presents a 4 times enlarged model of the Russian Stove - a collective image that allows you to visit inside the stove and study it internal structure. Its height is 11 m, perimeter 6x9 m.
Despite the fact that Russian stoves in different places were distinguished by an extraordinary variety of shapes, they were based on a single design principle. The concept of a stove includes not only a structure for heating and cooking, made of bricks or broken clay, but also an ensemble of all kinds of partitions, shelves, benches, dowels, side beds and ladders.
The Russian Stove Museum opened in December 2007 in the Moscow region. A gigantic pseudo-oven, which is actually a museum, was erected in the Russian sector of the Ethnomir ethno-village - next to wooden Russian huts and a modest monument to the Little Prince (he, it seems, did not understand how he found himself in such an unexpected environment).
The first floor is the “under-oven” (space for storing stove utensils). There is a varied exhibition of various village culinary equipment.
Having risen to the second floor, we find ourselves on the “six” - a flat platform in front of the “crucible” of the furnace, above which there is a pipe. Having passed the rectangular entrance (“mouth”), we found ourselves in the very heart of the furnace - the vaulted “crucible” (cooking chamber). The lights go out, the video projector turns on, and brickwork the crucible lights up the fire. A fascinating sight: museum visitors are in the crucible of a vaulted furnace. When the lights turn on again, you can examine the only exhibit on the second floor - a tiled stove, the kind they installed in wealthy Russian houses.
The third floor is a couch. Emelya’s favorite vacation spot in this case has been turned into an observation deck from which almost the entire Ethnoworld can be seen.
The whole life of the Slavic people is inextricably linked with the Russian stove. The oven was used for cooking food, baking bread and pies, drying grain, fish, berries, vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, medicinal herbs and roots. She treated all colds, successfully replaced a steam bath, and played the role of a home weather station. The Russian stove contributed to the emergence and development of many folk crafts. The Russian stove had a significant influence on the traditions and rituals of the Russian people.
Russian stove
Around the “oven” are ten Russian huts. Volzhskaya, Arkhangelsk, Siberian, Kuban - each imitates (and not always accurately) wooden buildings a certain region of Russia.
The stove building is the largest Russian stove in the world, the size of a three-story house. Only in ETNOMIR you can visit inside the stove and find out how it works.
The tour “The Stove Feeds, Warms, Heals” is one of the most important in the series of excursions around the Russian Stove Museum. For a Russian person, a stove is much more than just a means of heating and cooking. This is a symbol of the family hearth, the soul of the home, the source of life. These are childhood memories, because many of today’s adults grew up next to the stove, and everyone, without exception, listened to Russian fairy tales in which the stove is one of the heroines.
The Russian stove is mentioned in epics, proverbs and sayings; many folk rituals are associated with it. The image of the Russian stove is known all over the world and is one of the most recognizable symbols of Russian culture and the Russian people.
Look at a real Russian stove! This is a colorful, original, multifunctional structure, each part of which, each bend, each superstructure has its own function, which is very important for the Russian people.
Take a tour of a huge Russian oven and discover why it has maintained its importance over the centuries. Learn about the pagan beliefs associated with the stove and the unique position of the stove “on the border” of Christendom and the world of folk superstition.
Get acquainted with the most unusual and interesting signs associated with the oven and the “baked resident” - the brownie. Find out why the brownie was offered bast shoes when moving, and why the Russian people treat chimneys with caution.
There are Russian stoves different sizes And different designs- simple and more complex, with a stove and a heating shield. These stoves are almost universal, but they also have some disadvantages. Thus, they make it difficult to prepare some dishes that require observation of their preparation: in the crucible of a Russian oven it is almost impossible to observe this.
The big disadvantage of Russian stoves is that they emit heat starting from the level of the stove hearth, which is located at a distance of up to 900 mm from the floor, and that part of the room that is located below the hearth does not heat up.
Not all the fuel in a Russian stove burns simultaneously at all points of the furnace. Thus, the part of the fuel that is closer to the mouth burns much faster than the part that is located at the rear wall. This happens because most the oxygen necessary for combustion is consumed at the very mouth and very little reaches the rear wall.
Medium-sized ovens are considered here. If a small or large oven is needed, then it is laid out in exactly the same way, only in a reduced or enlarged form. The devices used are the same.
Let's look at the details of a simple Russian stove without a samovar (Fig. 180). The furnace is built on a solid foundation, 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the furnace. In its lower part there remains free space - a sub-bake with a hole in the front of the oven. The oven is used for storing oven equipment: grips, pokers, scoops, etc.
The under-bowl is covered with a brick vault, strip, corner or other shaped steel, concrete beams or wooden blocks, along which concrete or wood flooring. The boards are taken thick, unplaned. The safest in terms of fire are reinforced concrete or concrete slabs or brick flooring on steel or concrete beams. Their ends should extend onto the walls of the masonry by at least 50, and preferably 100 mm. At the level of the flooring, a cold stove is made from the front of the stove.
To avoid strong heating on the wooden flooring, it is necessary to lay two or three layers of felt insulation soaked in clay solution and covered on top with roofing steel, which is pre-painted on both sides. Such insulation protects the boards from excessive heating and prevents the backfill from spilling out from under the hearth. Seams between concrete slabs or bricks must be coated with any solution. In addition, wooden parts must be pre-treated with an antiseptic against wood beetles and wood fungus.
On the front side, at the level of the hearth of the furnace, approximately at a height of 800-900 mm from the floor, a hearth is installed, a flat platform made of bricks, on which it is best to lay a cast-iron stove without burners. The plate protects the brick platform from rapid destruction and makes it easier to move dishes along it. A rectangular hole is left above the pole - the pole window. Various dishes are placed on the pole.
The pole window is covered with a brick arch or two pieces of angle or strip steel. Angular steel is placed on the front side, and strip steel is placed on the inside, because it heats up less. The wide shelf of the corner, which goes into the over-pipe, heats up more. According to the rules fire safety cannot be used here wooden beams. Instead, you can lay a concrete beam.
In all other cases, except those listed, when laying stoves in places of strong heating, it is not recommended to use steel, since when heated, it expands and destroys the masonry.
Located against the pole main part furnaces - a cooking chamber (crucible) with a hole - a brow (mouth) in the front wall of the chamber, which can be rectangular in shape or in the form of a vault. The mouth is used to put fuel into the furnace and place dishes with food. Above the mouth, to the top of the furnace, there is a wall - a gas threshold with a height of at least 180 mm, counting from the top of the furnace. The roof of the furnace must be raised by at least 50 mm compared to its front side, counting from the hearth. This is necessary so that hot gases are always in the under-vault space, located above the mouth, and heat not only the vault, but also under the furnaces. The hot gases retained in this way are completely burned there, helping to heat the furnace. If there is no such threshold, then hot gases will escape into the atmosphere.
In the pole to the right (or to the right and left) of the mouth there are depressions called ash pans or ash pits. They often contain various dishes or ash. The mouth of the furnace is closed with a shutter (damper) of the desired shape with one or two handles.
Above the pole there is a cross-pipe 10 (like an overturned box), in which smoke is collected, from where it enters the pipe. To prevent the stove from smoking, the distance from the hearth to the over-pipe should not exceed the height of the mouth of the stove by more than 220 mm (three rows of masonry). The over-pipe, i.e. the smoky passage from the mouth of the furnace to the view itself, should narrow gradually, and not by ledges, which is achieved by cutting off the brick. If, under these conditions, the stove still smokes, the cause of the smoke should be sought in the chimney.
To catch sparks when gases escape into chimney A special wall with a bevel is installed in front of the view or valve, forming a kind of box in which soot falling from the walls of the pipe is collected. A tightly closing door is placed in front of the view. The furnace can be closed either with only one valve, or with only one view, but it is more tightly closed with both at the same time, or with two valves, above which the pipe begins. It is recommended to install the valve above the view, which is a good hood.
The most important part of the oven is the cooking chamber. The brick for its construction must be selected, especially for the construction of the vault.
The walls of the cooking chamber can be of different thicknesses. Thin walls heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly, thick walls do the opposite. The normal thickness of the walls is 3/4 of a brick (brick flat and on edge), but 1 brick is better. Front outer and inner wall in front of the crucible, do it in 1/2 brick.
180. Details of the Russian stove
1 – underbake; 2 – wooden flooring; 3 – cold stove; 4 – backfill; 5 – under: 6 – pole; 7 – pole window; 8 – cooking chamber (furnace); 9 – front wall of the chamber with the brow (orifice); 10 – over-pipe; 11 – gas threshold; 12- ash pits (ash pits); 13 – view; 14 – valve; 15 – pipe; 16 – vault; 17 – backfill under the roof; 18 – ceiling over the arch of the cooking chamber
181. form of vaults
a – semicircular; b – three-center; c – barrel-shaped (side view)
The chamber arch should have a slope towards the mouth. When installing a ceiling 18 above the chamber, the upper plane of the furnace must be level. Since the vault is made with a slope, it is necessary to arrange a leveling layer on it in the form sand backfill 17. Some stove makers replace the backfill with clay mortar on small crushed brick.
The pod is located at the bottom of the cooking chamber. To complete it, you need an even and smooth brick. The floor is laid dry without mortar. Before it starts, it is necessary to make backfill 4 from a material that accumulates heat and warms up evenly. Good filling ensures normal baking bakery products from the bottom side.
Coarse sand mixed with broken glass (sheets, bottles, etc.) or with gravel or crushed stone with a particle size of 150-180 mm is suitable for backfilling. If fine gravel or crushed stone is used, then they should be mixed with sand, and a layer of coarse sand 20-30 mm thick should be poured on top.
Lay it under with a slight smooth rise (30-50 mm) to the rear wall of the chamber, which ensures uniform combustion of all fuel. If the bottom is made horizontal, then the fuel, burning very slowly, will weakly heat the stove. The floor is laid in two ways: either after one row of masonry walls has been laid above the floor level, or after the cooking chamber has been laid out completely. In the first case, it is much more convenient to work; in the second, you have to work lying on your chest.
The shape of the vault (Fig. 181) plays a huge role in Russian stoves. Some forms are easier to lay out, others are more difficult. Semi-circular vaults are easier to lay out, but hot gases are reflected unevenly from them and heat up less efficiently. This is a strong vault and the load it perceives is transferred to the walls to a very small extent. Sloping three-center arches are more difficult to lay, and they push the walls out more, but they provide uniform and strong heating of the hearth. Sloping vaults heat up very well, but cannot withstand heavy loads, so they require the installation of ties along the front surface of the furnace made of round, angle or strip steel.
Some stove makers make three-center barrel-shaped vaults. In addition to the usual rise to the rear wall, such a vault also has a rise of 30 mm in the middle part, which exceeds the rise at the rear wall. The width of the arch also increases in the middle by 50-60 mm. It is more difficult to lay out a barrel-shaped vault, but the oven warms up better; hot gases seem to spread over the roof and do not get into the over-pipe, like sparks, and this is safer in terms of firefighting.
A vault of any shape is laid out simultaneously on both sides, moving towards the middle. When there remains a gap of less than 1/4 of a brick, forcefully lay a key brick into it, coated on three sides with clay mortar.
This brick should press all previously laid bricks against each other. Therefore, it is sometimes hammered into the space left for it with a log or a mallet (wooden hammer). The heels, or platforms, in the walls on which the vault rests are hewn out of good brick with the required slope, for which the brick must be checked with a template.
To lay out a vault with an odd number of bricks, when the last brick is a castle brick, the vault should be calculated by drawing it in full size on paper.
The easiest way is to arrange an adobe vault. To do this, durable formwork is made and adobe is prepared - a common clay mortar for brick stove masonry. The adobe must be very thick. If you stand on it, there should be no shoe marks left on it. If you make a life-size brick from it, place it in the middle on a stick, it should only bend slightly. Clay is prepared on wooden shield layer 5-7 cm. Cut it into strips 10-15 cm wide, so that the edges are cut into a cone. The strips are laid on formwork made along the curve of the arch, and compacted well with a wooden hammer with a diameter of at least 10 cm. The joining edges must not be wetted with water during joining. After a week or more, the formwork is dismantled. Masonry above the vault is usually done.
Side walls above the vault up to the roof they form a kind of box, which is filled with sand, and the roof is laid on top of brick in one row. Sometimes it is completely made of brick. However, such thick walls do not transfer heat well. It is better to make stoves (recesses) in one or both walls. The number of stoves depends on the length of the chamber; there can be 3 or 4 of them. They transfer heat well into the room and are very convenient for drying small items. The stoves should be placed so that they overlap at the level of the ceiling with two or three rows of masonry. The width of the stoves is 150-200 mm, height - 210 mm. The partitions between them are made of 1/2 brick, which makes it possible to cover the stoves from above with a whole brick.
Samovars, or dushniks, are square or round. Sometimes doors are inserted into them, but more often they are closed with boxes made of roofing steel. Sometimes wooden chocks are used for this purpose, which is undesirable, since there are cases of their fire. The shape of the box should follow the shape of the hole. It is advisable to insert a frame in the shape of the hole made of roofing steel into the choke, which protects it from destruction by the lid. A separate channel must be arranged for the choke, closed with a small valve, so that through it winter time No heat escaped from the room.
As mentioned earlier, for a more reliable closing of the furnace, it is recommended to install two valves or a valve and a view instead of one. They are placed one above the other at a distance of three to five rows of masonry. More often, a view is placed at the beginning of the pipe, and a valve is placed above it, sometimes - vice versa. If the choke channel is brought out so that it is located between the view and the valve, then when the samovar is placed, it is enough to open only the valve (if it is higher than the view). The valve above the view is also convenient in that for better heating of the shield or re-pipe, the valve is slightly closed, thereby regulating the exit of hot gases from the furnace into the pipe. The view closes the channel more tightly than the valve, since the pancake is placed first, and then everything is covered with a lid. Opening and closing latches is more convenient than views.
It is recommended to place fuel in a Russian stove closer to the mouth, as this improves combustion. Cooking utensils are placed near the mouth of the cooking chamber. When baking bread, after heating, all the ash is removed from the cooking chamber and swept under with a broom or broom. The shovel is lightly sprinkled with flour, the prepared dough of the desired shape (usually round) is placed on it, the shovel with the dough is brought to the mouth, pushed along the hearth to the desired place and the dough is jerked (moved) onto the floor, “planting” the bread.
Having become familiar with the main parts of the stove and the requirements for them, you can begin laying, strictly observing the procedures and carefully bandaging the seams.
The Russian ordinary stove (Fig. 182) is the simplest, with a minimum number of appliances. Average dimensions: length 1650 mm, width 1270 mm, height to ceiling 2380, to floors (furnace roof) - 1540 mm. The heat output of the furnace with one firebox per day is 2.4 kW (2100 kcal/h), with two fireboxes - 3.5 kW (3000 kcal/h).
The side and rear walls with one firebox per day emit 1.4 kW (1200 kcal/h), the front wall with the mouth - 0.5 kW (400) and the ceiling - 0.6 kW (500 kcal/h). With two fireboxes, respectively - 2; 0.6; 0.8 kW (1750; 550; 700 kcal/h). This stove can heat a room of 20-30 m2.
To lay the furnace you need: brick - 1610 pcs.; clay mortar - approximately 120 buckets; smoke valve measuring 300x300 mm (it is better to install two valves or one valve and one view); a samovar measuring 140×140 mm and a damper measuring 430×340 mm. The bricks are pre-sorted. The best one goes to laying the cooking chamber.
First of all, they begin to construct the foundation with laying waterproofing. Then lay out the first part of the oven - the underbake.
The 1st row is best laid out of a whole brick and always on the mortar that was used to lay the foundation. It is not advisable to use scarlet brick, since the oven supports the entire mass of the oven.
The 2nd, 3rd and 4th rows are laid out with a well, open on one side, to leave a hole in the oven for storing equipment. When laying, it is necessary to observe the dressing of the seams.
5th row. This is where the laying of the arch begins (shown by thin longitudinal lines), covering the under-bowl. To support the bricks of the first row of the vault, heels are hewn out. Laying is carried out using formwork.
The 6th and 7th rows are laid out with ligation of the seams and laying out the arch.
The 8th, 9th and 10th rows are laid thick! in one brick. In the 8th row, in the middle, bricks 7 are installed, closing the vault.
The 11th row is laid out the same way! forms, like the previous ones, in compliance with the rules for dressing the seams. It covers the so-called “cold stove”, which is located above the oven hole. The well formed by the masonry walls is filled completely with backfill, compacted and leveled so that it has a rise from the hearth to the rear wall of the cooking chamber.
182. Russian ordinary stove
1 – samovar; 2 – waterproofing; 3 – fine gravel and river sand mixed with broken glass
12th row. The hearth is laid on it. To make it smoother, sprinkle it fine sand and sanded with brick to remove protruding brick ridges. For this purpose, it is recommended to use hearth bricks, since they are twice as large in area as usual.
13th row. The laying of the cooking chamber begins with it. The walls are laid in 3/4 bricks with a height of 190 mm (1/2 brick and 1/4). These bricks are not connected to each other, but only bandage the seams. For strength, the cheeks of the walls are fastened along the main walls with a lock, for which the ends of the bricks are cut off at an angle of 45°.
The 14th-16th rows are performed in the same way as the 13th, but with ligation of the seams.
77th row. The masonry of the mouth ends with the front wall, made in the shape of a vault. From this row they begin laying the roof of the cooking chamber, or crucible, using a brick placed on its edge, the heels of which are cut off from the side walls to support the brick of the roof (shown by lines). Most often, the crucible arch is almost completely completed in this row.
18th row. From this row they begin laying the walls of the furnace and stoves. The space between the roof of the furnace and the walls is filled with river sand, filled with clay mortar with crushed brick. You can make continuous brickwork (as shown in Fig. 182).
79th row. They lay out the walls and level the masonry of the vault, and also block the window or opening above the pole in the form of an arch.
The 20th row is placed in such a way as to reduce the opening of the overtube (the space above the pole). The over-pipe must be laid out as evenly as possible (and not in separate steps), which requires cutting off the brick. In the same row, the furnace walls continue to be leveled. Here they arrange a ceiling under the channel for the samovar (shown by shading).
The 27th row is placed in the same way as the 10th, with strict dressing of the seams. The size of the overtube is reduced, the furnace walls are leveled.
22nd row. In this row, the size of the overtube continues to decrease. On the left side of the stove a samovar channel is laid ( section A-A). Brick with right side the cross-tubes are squeezed together for better movement of gases. A box for collecting soot is laid out here. In this row, the masonry above the vault is completely leveled.
23 - 32nd rows. On the 23rd row they lay the samovar. The channel from the samovar is located in the over-pipe and turns to the pipe above the valve or view. There is no valve for the samovar, since it is closed with a lid. In subsequent rows, two valves or a valve and a view are installed. The size of the chimney channel is two bricks (260×260 mm). Above the 32nd row, pipe laying begins.
It is best to make a damper and an arc for it of the desired shape and size in advance. The arc will later prove to be a good formwork when laying the forehead. The ends of the arc should be fastened in the masonry of the pole, and on the sides and top sides (at five points) - in the masonry of the wall with claws.
It is advisable to lay corded or sheet asbestos between the arc and the masonry. The arc can be made from various profile steel (strip, angle, etc.).
The damper is made in the shape of an arc, so that it fits more closely to the arc and thereby retains heat better. For the damper, angle steel (25x25x3 mm), sheet or strip steel is used. Sheet steel must be thickened. One or two handles are attached to the damper (Fig. 183).
The improved Russian stove "Economka" has small sizes, mm: its width is 890, its length is 1400, its height to the pipe is 2240, from the floor to the pole 770 and from the floor to the bed 1400. It has characteristic movements flue gases, it heats up from the bottom to the very top, has two fireboxes: the main (large) and additional (small). The stove can also be fired in Russian style (fuel is burned in a cooking chamber or crucible). It is simple, economical, and is used for space heating, cooking, and baking bakery products. It can be heated with any type of solid fuel.
The oven consists of two chambers: lower (heating) and upper (cooking). The heating chamber is located in the oven, the cooking chamber is located above it. The floor separating them is made of two layers of bricks laid flat. The height of all parts of the stove is the same as that of an ordinary Russian one. The stove can be equipped with a water heating box. Unlike a conventional Russian stove, the “Economka” heats the room from floor to ceiling. The temperature difference at the floor and at the level of the oven floor is small (2...3 °C).
A large firebox is located on the front side of the stove; the ash pan for it is laid from the 2nd row. A small firebox is placed on the right side of the stove; a ash pan for it is laid out starting from the 4th row. Both fireboxes are covered with one cast iron stove with two burners. The large burner should be located above the large firebox. Hot gases from the small firebox are first directed to the large firebox, from it through a slot they enter the heating chamber, from there into the cooking chamber, and then into the pipe.
IN warm time You can cook food and bake pies for years in the cooking chamber, burning fuel there. In winter, heating is carried out only through a large firebox. A small firebox is used to heat food or heat the stove in severe frosts. In a small firebox, any fuel, including raw fuel, burns well.
184. Russian stove “Housekeeper”
1 – water heating box; 2 – small firebox; 3 – large firebox; 4 – “faience”; 5 – cast iron plate; 6 - six; 7 – over-pipe; 8 – ventilation valve; 9 – smoke valve; 10 – strip or angle steel; 11 – stand; 12 – damper; 13 – ventilation duct; 14 - roof; 15- gap in the hearth; 16-brick partition; 17 – under the cooking chamber; 18 – holes in the upper part of the hearth; 19 – adobe; 20 – holes (tucks); 21 – grates
Let's look at the design of the furnace (Fig. 184). The water-heating box is installed on the right side of the stove, near which there is a small firebox. A large firebox is placed on the front side of the stove. The fireboxes have blowers and grates. In order not to disturb the brickwork of the bench when moving the dishes, it is fastened with angle steel, making the so-called “faience”. The ends of the earthenware are placed in the masonry of the furnace walls, tying wires to them - hooks with steel pins. The length of the lobes is up to 20 cm, the length of the pins is 8-10 cm. The lobes are secured in the seams of the masonry. A cast-iron stove with two burners (the large one is above the large firebox) is the base of the firebox, over which an over-pipe is installed, designed to remove odors from the prepared food from the room, as well as part of the air for ventilation. At the top of the overpipe there is a special channel with a ventilation valve, through which air is directed into the chimney, which is closed by the valve.
The pole is open on both sides (front and side). To ensure the strength of the overtube, steel strips or a corner 10 are laid in the corner on the front and sides, which are supported by a stand 11 made of round steel or a thick steel pipe.
The brow, or mouth (hole for the cooking chamber), provided for the simplicity of the device, is rectangular in shape and closed by a damper 12 of the same shape, but 15-20 mm larger in length and width. Made from sheet steel. The person may be arched shape, but then the damper should have the same shape.
Ventilation duct 13 starts from the overtube (section AA).
The heating chamber is divided into two sections by a brick partition 16 thick V2 bricks ( sections B-B and G-G). The first section is located next to the large firebox, the second is behind the partition. The partition is made up to the 4th row in the form of two free-standing columns one brick thick and 210 mm high. The distance between the posts and from the posts to the oven walls is 120 mm. Starting from the 4th row, a solid brick wall is erected - a partition with a thickness of V2 bricks. In the future, to increase the mass, two bricks are laid across, on which the stove will rest. After installing a solid partition, in its lower part, between the posts, there remain three holes, or undercuts 20 (sections B-C and G-D), each measuring 120 x 210 mm.
Let's consider the operation of the furnace. Hot gases from the burning fuel first enter through the gap between the rear wall of the firebox and the hearth into the first section of the heating chamber. Then, having descended, they are directed through the folds in the partition into the second section of the heating chamber, from which through a gap in the hearth 15 they enter the cooking chamber, from there through four holes 18 in the roof of the cooking chamber they move into the collection channel, and from there into the pipe ( 18th and 19th rows). The movement of gases is shown by arrows (section B-B).
When laying the arch of the cooking chamber, the brick on which the arch rests is not cut off to create heels. And the first bricks of the vault are laid directly on it with an inclination into the chamber. To prevent the bricks from shifting towards the outer side walls, thick clay (clay-bit), clay mortar with crushed brick (clay concrete) or pieces of brick with clay mortar are laid between them and the bricks of the vault. The thickness of the adobe or brick should be such that the bricks do not tilt in the direction opposite to the arch ( section B-B).
In the process of making the vault, they lay out the outer walls, filling the space between them and the vault with adobe, and arrange three or four stoves on one or both sides of the stove. You can first lay out the vault, and then lay out the walls with stoves.
A flat vault is considered best, since in this case the entire cooking chamber heats up more. However, this vault has a drawback: with a large load on the roof, it can burst the walls of the furnace, which will lead to their destruction. To prevent this from happening, under the heels of the building, yes, that is, under those bricks on which it rests, they place ties made of steel strips 25 wide and 2 mm thick or made of wire at least 6 mm thick with threads at the ends and nuts , under which square washers measuring 50 x 50 mm are placed (15th and 17th rows). A steep vault is stronger, but with this oven design the heating of the cooking chamber is less. It is also recommended to arrange connections under such a vault.
Internal surfaces ovens and channels must be smooth. This increases the draft of gases during combustion.
Under the cooking chamber 17 (sections B-B and D-G) consists of rows of brickwork. In this case, backfilling is not done. The under rests on the walls and partition inside the heating chamber (sections 1 B-B and G-G; 10th and 11th rows).
As mentioned, in the cold season, fuel is burned in a large firebox. In this case, the dishes with food are first placed in the cooking chamber. The fuel is ignited. through the forehead. When baking bakery products, the process proceeds as in an ordinary Russian oven. The bread is planted after the oven is heated. When the oven is heated in Russian, the coals in the oven are swept to one or two sides of the chamber, freeing up space for baking. Food can be cooked or heated on the stove by burning fuel in any firebox.
Materials for laying the stove up to the ceiling (without pipe): ceramic brick - 750 pcs. (it is better to make fireboxes from refractory bricks or make a lining); clay mortar - 70 buckets; grates - 2 pcs. (for a small firebox measuring 120 x 140 mm, for a large one - 180 x 250 mm); combustion doors - 2 pcs. (for a large firebox measuring 270 x 280 mm, for a small firebox - 210 x 250 mm); blower doors - 2 pcs. (for a large firebox measuring 130 x 270 mm, for a small firebox - 130 x 130 mm); cast iron stove with two burners measuring 350 x 650 mm; valves - 2 pcs. (for a ventilation duct measuring 130 x 140 mm, for a chimney - 130 x 250 mm); roofing steel damper in the shape of a brow (in this case, rectangular) measuring 400 x 420 mm with one or two handles; water heating box dimensions 500 x 34 x 125 mm (length x height x width); strip steel - two pieces measuring 40 x 10 x 850 mm and two pieces measuring 40 x 10 x 500 mm to cover the hearth and forehead (see 15th and 17th rows); corner steel with a cross-section of 25 x 25 x 90 mm, length 1500 mm for installing “faience” at the hearth; round steel with a diameter of 16-18 mm, length 350 mm or water pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm for the stand supporting the blower pipe (see. general view, front view, section A-A); wire with a diameter of 6 mm, a length of 10 m or steel strip; nuts and washers for arranging connections (see 15, 16 and 17th rows) - 16 pcs.; pre-furnace sheets made of roofing steel measuring 500 x 700 mm - 2 pcs.; sheet asbestos or felt of the same size.
It is better to make the foundation for the stove solid. Before two rows of masonry reach the floor level, the foundation is leveled and waterproofing is laid in 2-3 layers. The dimensions of the furnace are laid down on the waterproofing sheet, along which the brickwork is laid down to the floor level. The laying of the furnace itself begins from this level.
Variant of the “Ekonomka” stove without a water-heating box (Fig. 185). The bricks are sorted. The best one is used for laying fireboxes, cooking and heating chambers. Bricks remaining after sorting can be used to lay the pipe.
The 1st row can be made of a whole brick in whole or in part: the outer walls are made of a whole brick, the middle is made of halves, but with bandaged seams.
2nd row. First, lay the bricks exactly at their location, for example, under the posts and cleaning points 1 (two cleanings on the right side of the stove, two on the back side). In this row, a blower is laid under a large firebox. From the front of the ash pit, one brick is cut onto cone 2 to make it easier to select ash (shaded). Place 3 posts under the partition.
3rd row. Place the ash door under a large firebox. Claws are attached to the door frame to securely fasten it. Continue laying out columns 3.
4th row. They arrange an ash pit for a small firebox and install a door. The cleanings are covered with brickwork: holes measuring 130 x 130 mm remain underneath them. Two brick columns 3 remain in the heating chamber, located between the walls, as well as between the columns and walls (distance 120-130 mm). The height of the posts is 210 mm.
5th row. A solid brick partition 4 with a thickness of V2 bricks is laid on the posts, securing it in the side walls with a lock. Thus, three holes (or undercuts) with a cross-section of 120 x 210 mm remain under the partition. The blower door of a large firebox is closed, the ashpit is narrowed, which is necessary for laying the grate. To increase the mass of the partition, it is laid as shown in Fig. 185. The width of the columns remains unchanged, since the brick is always laid with a dressing. This type of masonry of the partition is carried out up to the 8th row inclusive, so that whole bricks can then be laid on it and the walls of the oven (expanded) into the under of the cooking chamber. The partition divides the heating chamber into two sections. The first section 5 is located near the large firebox, and the second 6 is behind the partition, i.e., between the partition and the rear wall of the furnace (sections B-B, B-C, G-G).
6th row. Grate grates 7 for a large firebox and 8 for a small firebox are laid with support on the 5th row. Above the grate of a small firebox, a brick is cut into a cone from the front and back sides (hatching), thereby forming a well with steep walls into which the fuel rolls (here it burns faster, since it is on the grate).
7th row. They install the door of a large firebox. There should be a well above the ash pit. The rest of the masonry is carried out in order.
8th row. Install the small firebox door. The large firebox 9 expands towards the partition so that hot gases circulate across the entire width of the first section of the heating chamber.
185A. Laying the “Ekonomka” stove without a water-heating box
185B. Laying the “Ekonomka” stove without a water-heating box
185 V. Laying the “Ekonomka” stove without a water-heating box
1 – cleaning; 2 – hewn brick; 3 – columns; 4 – partitions; 5 – first section of the heating chamber; 6 - second section of the heating chamber; 7 – grate for a large firebox; 8 – grate for a small firebox; 9 – expansion of the firebox; 10 – gap in the hearth; 11 – “faience”; 12 – cast iron plate; 13 – wire connections; 14 – steel strip; 15 – over-pipe; 16 – adobe; 17 – holes in the vault; 18 - collection channel; 19 – change in the shape of the collecting channel; 20 – ventilation duct; 21 – combined channel; 22 – steel strips
9th row. The laying is done so that the horizontal channel from the large firebox narrows, and the partition becomes wider. This is necessary so that the heating chamber can be easily covered with the first row of brickwork to form a cooking chamber hearth.
10th row. From this row they begin laying out the first row of the hearth, leaving a gap 10 at the rear wall of the cooking chamber with a width of at least 70 mm and a length of approximately 630 mm, i.e., the entire width of the cooking chamber (sections B-B and D-G).
11th row. Lay the second row of the hearth, leaving a gap of 10. The thickness of the hearth reaches 140 mm (two rows of brickwork). The firebox doors are covered with bricks, forming one horizontal channel. The brickwork on the front side of the stove along the hearth is secured with angle steel - “faience” 11 is installed.
12th row. The horizontal channel formed by two fireboxes is covered with a cast iron stove 12. If the stove has a large burner, then it should be above the large firebox.
The 13th and 14th rows are laid according to the order.
15th row. The side walls are laid and fastened with wire or strip steel ties 13 using washers and nuts. For ease of execution, the forehead is made in a rectangular shape and covered on top with a steel strip 14, 40 mm wide, 10 mm thick, and 850 mm long. If the forehead has the shape of an arch, the steel strip is not used. The walls of the cooking chamber are laid brick thick, with the lower part beveled to a cone (sections B-B and B-C). This type of masonry is done on three sides of the cooking chamber (two sides and the back).
16th row. First, lay the masonry with the overlap of the forehead, then lay the ties along the width of the furnace, fastening them with nuts and washers. The walls of the cooking chamber on three sides are made as thick as a brick, but without being cut into a cone (sections B-B and B-C).
17th row. They carry out the brickwork, install the second row of ties along the side walls (exactly the same as in the 15th row). After this, a base for the over-pipe 15 is made from strip steel on the front and sides, which is supported in the corner by a stand - a round steel rod with a diameter of 1.6-1.8 mm or a pipe. The post is firmly tied at the bottom and top with steel strips and angle steel. The steel strips are not placed directly on the brick, but nests of the required width, height (depth) and length are first selected in it. The dimensions of the nests must be at least 50-70 mm (100 mm is possible).
18th row. From this row they begin laying the cooking chamber in the form of a flat vault. There are no heels at the brick side walls for laying the vault. The first bricks of the vault rest on the released bricks of the 16th row; they should have an inward slope. Therefore, under these bricks with outside lay pieces of brick on clay mortar, clay-bit or clay concrete - clay with crushed brick (section B-B). In this row, the pole is blocked and steel strips are laid to form a crossbar. When laying out the vault at the front wall of the cooking chamber, four holes 17 measuring 70 x 120 mm are left in this vault. (In general, they form a channel measuring 120 x 280 mm.) Through these holes, hot gases first enter the collection channel, and from it into the pipe.
19th row. Shown is a completed vault with four openings of 17 specified sizes. It can be seen that hot gases do not escape from the chela into the over-pipe, as happens in a Russian stove.
20th row. Lay out the walls of the oven above the level of the roof in two rows and arrange the stoves. A collection channel 18 is made above the four holes. The opening of the overtube narrows to 180-200 mm (in the previous row its width is 250 mm). The wall between the overpipe and the collection channel is secured with a lock (on the right side of the furnace).
21st row. The collection channel 19 is shaped like a balalaika to conduct hot gases to the chimney. A ventilation duct 20 measuring 70 x 250 mm is placed in the overpipe.
22nd row. The dimensions of the collection channel 19 are reduced, and the brick on its front side is cut into a cone to facilitate the movement of gases from the channel into the pipe. The ventilation duct 20 is expanded to a size of 120 x 190 mm.
23rd row. The shape of the collection channel remains unchanged. The ventilation duct 20 takes the shape of a square.
The 24th row is similar to the previous one. The collection channel remains the same size (without changing shape). A valve 8 measuring 130 x 140 mm is installed above the ventilation duct.
25th row. The laying is carried out according to the order. The smoke channel changes its shape. The ventilation duct remains unchanged.
26th row. Smoke channel accepts rectangular shape, side dimensions 130 X 260 mm (one brick). The dimensions of the ventilation duct do not change.
27th row. A valve 9 measuring 130 x 250 mm is placed above the smoke channel (see general view, front view and sections).
28th row. Combine two vertical channels into one horizontal 21, L-shaped (to remove air from the ventilation duct into the pipe above the smoke damper).
The 29th row is similar to the previous one. The shape of the channel remains unchanged. To block the ventilation duct, two steel strips 22 are laid above it, on which the bricks will rest in the next row. This way the ventilation duct will communicate with the chimney.
30th row. Under the bricks laid on steel strips, an undercut hole measuring 130 x 130 mm is formed. After this, only one Smoke Channel remains, measuring 130 x 260 mm.
31st and 32nd rows. A roof is constructed from two rows of masonry. The laying of the rows is similar, the only difference is in the dressing of the seams. The ventilation duct on top remains covered with three rows of brickwork (210 mm), which meets fire safety requirements.
33rd and 34th rows. The pipes are laid in the so-called “five-piece”, i.e. in one brick. Pipe channel size 130 x 260 mm. The ligation of sutures is strictly observed. The pipe is laid up to the ceiling level. When passing through the ceiling, fluffing is performed.
Variant of the “Economka” stove with a water-heating box (Fig. 186). In this option, only eight rows of masonry are considered. The remaining rows are performed according to the first option.
186. Laying the “Housekeeper” stove with a water-heating box
1 – cleaning; 2 – water heating box; 3 – channel near the water heating box; 4 – partitions; 5 – grates; 6 – steel strip
The hot water box can be inserted in two ways. In the first case, it is directly smeared or placed in the stove masonry, in the second, a case is made from thicker steel of such a size that the water-heating box can be easily inserted into it. At the same time, the water heating box lasts much longer and is convenient to remove for cleaning and repair. If you take out the water-heating box, then when the furnace is fired, the room is heated due to the release of heat by the case, which, when quickly heated, is like a temporary steel stove. The lid of the hot water box must be tightly closed to prevent steam from escaping into the room.
The 1st row is placed exactly the same as in the first option; 2nd row - according to the order. They lay a ash pit for a large firebox and cleaning.
The 3rd row is performed as shown in the order. First, they place the door in the ash pit on the 2nd row of masonry for a large firebox, leaving a hole for the ash vent of a small firebox. The 4th row is laid as shown, with the door installed in the ash pit*) for a small firebox.
The 5th row is performed according to the order. The ash door under the large firebox is covered with brick, and the hole above the ash pit is narrowed. On the right side of the stove, near the small firebox, install a water-heating box 2 or a case for it. On the left side of the box or case, channel 3 measuring 70 x 210 mm is left. With the help of this channel, the water heating box or case for it will be heated from the other side or from the side. In this row, hot gases will heat the box not only from the side, but also from the bottom. A partition 4 is placed along the laid out columns, which divides the heating chamber into two sections.
In the 6th row, the ash door of the small firebox is covered with bricks. Grate grates 5 are placed above the blowers. Channel 3 remains the same size. Then a partition is placed.
In the 7th row a large firebox door is installed. The channel remains unchanged. The laying is done in order.
In the 8th row, brickwork is first done. Channel 3 is blocked so that the brick hangs over it. The brick is laid flush with the side of the box or case, while between the brick and the top of the box or case a 70 mm high undercut is left, through which hot gases will heat the top of the box or case. In order for there to be a hole or channel between the top of the box or the case, a steel strip 6 is laid on the completed brickwork, on which the brick is laid in the 9th row.
In the 9th row, above the casing or hot water box, brickwork is made along the laid steel strip - the roof. The partition is made wider, as it is necessary for laying the first row of the hearth. This is practically the same row as in the first option. Further masonry is carried out as in the first option.
The largest stove in the world, with its appearance and internal structure, represents a 4 times enlarged model of the Russian Stove - a collective image that allows you to visit the inside of the stove and study its internal structure. Its height is 11 m, perimeter 6x9 m.
Despite the fact that Russian stoves in different places were distinguished by an extraordinary variety of shapes, they were based on a single design principle. The concept of a stove includes not only a structure for heating and cooking, made of bricks or broken clay, but also an ensemble of all kinds of partitions, shelves, benches, dowels, side beds and ladders. 
The Russian Stove Museum opened in December 2007 in the Moscow region. A gigantic pseudo-oven, which is actually a museum, was erected in the Russian sector of the Ethnomir ethno-village - next to wooden Russian huts and a modest monument to the Little Prince (he, it seems, did not understand how he found himself in such an unexpected environment). 
The first floor is the “under-oven” (space for storing stove utensils). There is a varied exhibition of various village culinary equipment.
Having risen to the second floor, we find ourselves on the “six” - a flat platform in front of the “crucible” of the furnace, above which the pipe is located. Having passed the rectangular entrance (“mouth”), we found ourselves in the very heart of the furnace - the vaulted “crucible” (cooking chamber). The lights go out, the video projector turns on, and a fire is lit on the brickwork of the crucible. A fascinating sight: museum visitors are in the crucible of a vaulted furnace. When the lights turn on again, you can examine the only exhibit on the second floor - a tiled stove, the kind they installed in wealthy Russian houses.
The third floor is a couch. Emelya’s favorite vacation spot in this case has been turned into an observation deck from which almost the entire Ethnoworld can be seen. 
The whole life of the Slavic people is inextricably linked with the Russian stove. The oven was used for cooking food, baking bread and pies, drying grain, fish, berries, vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, medicinal herbs and roots. She treated all colds, successfully replaced a steam bath, and played the role of a home weather station. The Russian stove contributed to the emergence and development of many folk crafts. The Russian stove had a significant influence on the rituals of the Russian people. 
Around the “oven” are ten Russian huts. Volzhskaya, Arkhangelsk, Siberian, Kuban - each imitates (and not always accurately) wooden buildings of a certain region of Russia. 
Based on sources. Museum Ethnomir.
Main components of the unit:
Description of Russian stoves “black”
In more ancient times, people built heating units from clay and without a chimney - smoking devices, so named because they “smoked” over low heat. In such equipment, strong combustion was not allowed in order to prevent a fire. The smoke was vented out through the porch above entrance doors, but at the same time cold air from the street entered the house, which led to significant heat loss and inefficient operation of the furnace.
The fire risk problem soon returned. The new chimney increased draft, but at the same time increased the amount of hot air emitted with sparks.
With a purpose increasing efficiency and eliminating the risk of fire, they began to make the chimney curved and let it rotate in the casing. Thus, the hot smoke, moving in zigzags through the furnace, transferred heat to the bricks, and the sparks also went out. At the end of their journey, the combustion products passed through a special horizontal section of the pipe, from which they came out already cooled.
Another difference between “white” stoves and “black” ones is the foundation. The first type of device weighs 2-3 times more than its predecessor, so they built strong foundation so that the floor can withstand and not fall through.
“White” stoves, although perfect, were used for a long time only in the houses of boyars, princes and wealthy gentlemen. The reason for this was the high cost of brick: ordinary villagers could not afford the luxury of purchasing this material and continued to use old-style stoves. Some found an alternative in constructing such a unit from unfired brick - raw brick, and used the fired brick on the floor and roof of the furnace.
The design of the heating unit “in white” turned out to be so perfect that it has not changed to this day. Only some parts were separately modernized, simplifying the work and improving the appearance of the equipment.
Location of the Russian stove
Heating devices in the room, as a rule, were located against the wall, in the corner or on the side of the veranda and were used to heat one or several rooms at once.
When located in the corner of the room, the stove was directed with its mouth to a partition parallel to the entrance and illuminated by a side window.
In houses with 5 walls or a porch, the units were built in such a way that either all rooms or several of them were heated.
Types of Russian stoves
Such a unit can be converted or built to suit any customer’s wishes.
Main types:
- Classical(read ) - standard option heating device with a stove bench.
- (read) - a more advanced and convenient model of the unit: in the summer it performs the function of cooking, and in the winter - heating.
- Russian mini oven(read ). Another name for this design without a bed is “housekeeper”. The device is intended for cooking.
- Russian heating unit withcaminom(read ). Combination of modern open hearth and the capabilities of the stove - it is both beautiful and convenient.
Pros and cons
Disadvantages of using such equipment:
Advantages of a modern heating unit:
The stove was used to get rid of colds and warm up a cold back. They were treated not only with heat, but also with stove ash mixed with salt.
How to buy a Russian stove
Such a unit can be made to order or built independently.
There are special organizations that produce heating devices taking into account the wishes of the customer. The price of a Russian stove varies depending on the size, appearance, heated area, the planned volume of food to be cooked, and the material used.
If you still decide to build a Russian stove yourself, this can be done with the help step by step instructions described in other articles on our site. Choose the type of Russian stove based on function and appearance, study the stages of laying, stock up necessary materials, tools for work and get down to business.
The whole life of the Slavic people is inextricably linked with the Russian stove. The oven was used for cooking food, baking bread and pies, drying grain, fish, berries, vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, medicinal herbs and roots.
She treated all colds, successfully replaced a steam bath, and played the role of a home weather station.
The Russian stove contributed to the emergence and development of many folk crafts. She had a significant influence on the traditions and rituals of the Russian people.
Despite the fact that Russian stoves in different corners Russia was distinguished by an extraordinary variety of forms; they were based on a single principle of structure. The concept of a stove includes not only a structure for heating and cooking, made of bricks or broken clay, but also an ensemble of all kinds of partitions, shelves, benches, cabbage rolls, attached beds and ladders.
“Museum of the Russian Stove” is a comprehensive exhibition. It is formed by the building of the largest Russian stove in the world and nine huts from different regions of the European part of Russia.
In its layout, the architectural ensemble recreates the structure of ancient Slavic settlements, when residential buildings surrounded the central square.
The largest Russian stove in the world, with its appearance and internal structure, represents a 4 times enlarged model of a Russian stove - a collective image that allows you to visit inside the stove and study its internal structure. Since the spring of 2014, pies and bread have been baked in the oven building.
The main exhibitions of the Museum are located in the huts - these are stoves of different structures, shapes, designs, and household items of the 19th-20th centuries, and an exhibition of irons, and a collection of traditional Russian patchwork dolls, and various wooden toys...
Various exhibitions in the huts allow you not only to get acquainted with the Russian stove, but also to plunge into the world of the Slavs. In different parts of Russia, Russian stoves were distinguished by an extraordinary variety of shapes. It is the location of the stoves in the huts that underlies the classification of dwellings.
The exhibition of the Museum of Russian Stove includes:
- house of southwestern plan - Kuban mud hut;
- house of south-eastern plan - mud hut of the south of the Black Earth Region. The “Beekeeper's House” is open in the house - an exhibition and sale of honey and honey products is taking place. In addition, next to the mud hut there is a forge where guests can, with the help of a blacksmith, forge a nail or a horseshoe and get acquainted with the ancient craft;
- Western plan house. The house hosts excursions “Games and Fun”, “A Child Grows Not from Food, but from Joy”;
- northern house. The Samovar Museum, the Mikhail Lomonosov exhibition are located here, and craft master classes are also held;
- Vologda hut is a traditional hut of the North-Central Russian plan. Excursions are held here, “The stove feeds, warms, heals”, “Like during the oil week”, “We have a merchant, you have goods...”, “Home is the Universe”;
- Kostroma hut is a traditional hut of the North-Central Russian plan. The workshop “The Magic of Slavic Dolls” is located here; master classes on patchwork dolls are held;
- traditional five-wall. In the hut there is a gingerbread workshop, master classes on painting gingerbread are held;
- Ural hut. There are excursions “Games and Fun”, thematic excursions “Museum of the Sun”, “Once on Epiphany Evening”, “Like Shrovetide Week”;
- Volga region house - excursions
