Restoring files. Available methods for file restoration. Design features and types
To the question of how to clean a needle file asked by the author Col.kurtz the best answer is to degrease with solvent 646, then keep it in battery electrolyte for a while, then in a soda solution, rinse hot water, dry, clean the metal. brush and lubricate with turbine oil.
Reply from not at all[guru]
sulfuric acid. For one thing he will be “imprisoned.”
Reply from Hero of the day[guru]
If the file becomes clogged with rubber, fiber or wood filings, it should be kept in a hot water within 20 minutes. To clean an oily file, first treat its surface with birch charcoal and then with a wire brush. More effective option is to wash the oily file in a hot solution of caustic soda and caustic soda, clean it with a wire brush, rinse with water and dry.
To “rejuvenate” files clogged with aluminum or copper shavings, two compositions are usually prepared: a 20-30% solution of caustic soda and a mixture consisting of 3 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 4 ml of concentrated hydrochloric acid(HCl) and 100 ml of water.
Before restoration, files must be degreased with gasoline or a hot solution of calcined salt (Na2CO3), using a stiff brush, so that the working solutions do not deteriorate.
Next, the files need to be dipped into a boiling solution of caustic soda for 1.5-5 minutes, and then etched in a mixture of acids for 1-3 minutes. (Instead of treating them in caustic soda solution, files can be boiled in a 30% soda ash solution for 10-15 minutes.)
At the final stage of cleaning files from aluminum and copper shavings, they should be washed first in a soda solution, then in hot water, dried and lubricated with diesel fuel (kerosene) or rubbed with a piece of chalk if aluminum and other soft metals will need to be processed with these files in the future.
Bring back the spice cutting edges A solution composed of 20% nitric acid (HNO3), 20% sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and distilled water, taken in quantities of 10, 20 and 70 g, respectively, will help to cut the file.
A file, cleared of aluminum and copper shavings, is dipped into a “sharpening” solution having room temperature(files with a fine cut - for 1-1.5 minutes, with a coarser cut - for 15 minutes).
It is most convenient to etch a file in a tall and relatively narrow glass ( better than plastic acid-resistant) vessel. A bottle with a cut off neck will also work in a garage.)
After etching, the file is washed with hot water, kept for several minutes in lime water or in a 5-10% soda ash solution, washed again with hot water, dried, and then lubricated with diesel fuel.
To save time, it is rational to process a batch of 3-10 files.
Working with caustic alkalis and acids is dangerous. Therefore, do not forget that for your protection you need an apron, rubber gloves and goggles.
An exhaust hood is desirable, otherwise it is better to work outdoors.
So, to obtain a “sharpening” solution, you need to dissolve 90 g of crystalline borax (Na2B4O7 10H2O) and 400 g in 750 ml of distilled water copper sulfate(CuSO4 5H2O). Since both substances are not easily soluble, the water can be heated a little, but then the solution must be cooled. After this, 350 g (190-200 ml) of concentrated sulfuric acid (H2SO4) is carefully added to the resulting solution.
Files are processed in this solution using the same method as above.
Well that's it, good luck.
Today is a very interesting topic that is dedicated to files. Each of us has used this tool at least once in our lives. What to do with the old ones that are dull, rusty and clogged with metal shavings.
Eat interesting way with cleaning and sharpening of the file. Take a wire brush and draw along the line. Effective for cleaning large files and rasps. What about smaller ones? For example, velvet. Eat interesting idea. Electrolysis will help us here. You can not only remove metal debris, but also restore sharpness. If it is completely unusable, do not rush to throw it into scrap metal. At the end of the video, a very interesting contraption for welders is shown.
I found two worthy candidates for cleaning. The first file is rusty, but more or less alive, because there are notches on it. After restoration, you can work with it for some time. The second is suitable for making tools for welders.
Will be required plastic bottle, water, salt, metal bus, DC source. Cut off the neck of the bottle. Add a little salt to improve the reaction. Fill with water. Stir. Place the file. All that remains is to connect the DC source. To the file is a plus, to the tire is a minus. They kept it in electrolysis for 20 minutes. Let's take it out and see what happens. Wash in water, wipe with a dry cloth and brush. Like new!
Over time, files and needle files become “greasy” and dull, and working with them becomes unpleasant and unproductive. This especially happens when processing viscous materials with files - non-ferrous metals, copper, aluminum, stainless steel. Particles of these metals seem to be riveted onto the file, clog the space between the teeth and the file becomes “smooth”.
To restore such a file and return it to working shape, there is a simple method consisting of chemically etching the file in a special solution. Approximately the same technology is used to restore old, rusty files.
First, the file is inspected and, if necessary, cleaned with a wire brush to remove mechanical contamination. Then the files are degreased in a solution washing powder or dishwashing detergent, then rinse running water and then immersed in acetone. This removes all fat and oil deposits between the teeth from the files. You can also degrease a file by boiling it in a soda solution for 10 minutes.
If the file is rusty, it is immersed in a container filled with rust reducer. And keep it until the rust disappears. The rust reducer can be replaced with a 20% sulfuric acid solution.
The files are washed in running water and placed in a reducing solution consisting of
— Concentrated nitric acid — 8%
— Concentrated sulfuric acid — 6%
— Water — 86%
The peculiarity of this solution is that it etches the metal more in the recesses than on the protrusions. Those. it seems to deepen the depressions between the teeth of the file, and the teeth themselves are little etched. This increases the height of the file teeth (although the overall thickness of the file decreases). And the file is thereby restored and becomes sharp.
The file etching time is approximately 5-10 minutes. After which the file is removed from the solution, washed and tested. If it is not sufficiently etched, the etching is continued.
After etching, the files are thoroughly washed in running water or soda solution to get rid of the acid.
Files should be preserved after restoration, since their surface is pure metal, which can very quickly become covered with rust. To do this, the files are dipped into machine oil (you can work them off), the oil is heated to a temperature of 100-120 degrees and held for 15-20 minutes.
After the preservation procedure, the files are removed from the oil, thoroughly wiped, dried and handles are attached to them.
In this way, files can be restored from almost any condition.
Under no circumstances should files be stored in bulk, in a general heap. At the same time, they rub against each other and become dull very quickly. Therefore, it will be better if you make a simple shelf for the files - a bookkeeper, where each file will have its own place and they will not touch each other. And the files will be visible - you won’t have to go through them all to choose the one you need.
Material for the shelf - plywood, thin board, plastic.
Handles for files.
If you buy files that do not come with handles, you will have to make them yourself.
Good handles for needle files are made from wine corks. The needle file is stuck into them without preliminary drilling.
Handles for more powerful files can be made from short sections sawn from shovel cuttings. They can be bought at hardware stores and are not expensive. A large chamfer is removed from the ends of the handle, and the wood is sanded. A hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the file shank is drilled at the end of the cutting segment and the file is driven into the handle with tension. This way you can provide handles for all files.
Another good starting material for file handles is thick branches produced when pruning trees in the spring. When cleared of bark and dried, such handles not only look beautiful, but also often have a very comfortable “pistol” curve.
Konstantin Timoshenko
File – This hand tool, intended for metal processing. It can be used for others as well hard materials, such as plastic, textolite, etc. Using a file allows you to polish irregularities or adjust the product to the required parameters, expanding its diameter or shortening it. It is made from hard tool steel, making it tougher than most metals it processes.
Design features and types
The tool is a steel strip with a notch, which is attached to a wooden or plastic handle. The file notch happens various sizes, which correspond to a specific number from 0 to 5. The largest notch is No. 0, and the smallest is No. 5.
According to the number classification, files are:
- Drachevye (No. 0-1 up to 12 notches per 1 cm of surface) - have large teeth that allow you to scratch a layer of thick rust, breaking it off from clean metal.
- Personal and semi-personal (No. 2-3 from 13 to 44 notches per 1 cm of surface) - used for processing any metal, removing excess thickness.
- Velvet (No. 4-5 from 45 to 80 notches per 1 cm of surface) - used for finishing, to achieve maximum smoothness of the workpiece.
The larger the teeth, the more metal can be removed. When processing with a high and rare notch, the surface of the workpiece is covered with deep grooves, so for comfortable processing you need to start with a smaller file number and gradually move on to a very fine notch, which is necessary to achieve maximum smoothness of the surface, if necessary.
It is worth considering that a file with a very fine notch quickly becomes clogged with removed shavings, and therefore requires periodic cleaning, since otherwise the removal of the metal layer will stop. In addition, it should be noted that the speed of work with a velvet-type tool is tens of times lower than that of a garnish type.
Types of notches
The file differs not only in the size of the notch teeth, but also in the features of its application:
- Single.
- Cross.
- Dugovaya.
- Rasp.
- Stamped.
Simple or single The notch can be used for processing non-ferrous metals. It quickly removes a layer of the workpiece and is well cleaned of chips. When working, such a tool rattles a lot, which leads to rapid hand fatigue. It should be noted that the peculiarity of the angle of inclination of the teeth does not allow processing hard metals. The notches themselves are applied at an angle of 25-30 degrees.
Cross The cut is suitable for machining steel, cast iron and bronze. Its serrations intersect to form diamonds. The inclination angle of the main notch is 25 degrees, and the auxiliary notch is 45 degrees. This type of file becomes clogged with shavings quite quickly, so it is not suitable for soft metal. To ensure productive and comfortable work, it is important to take care of the presence of a metal brush, which must be used to periodically brush away the chips between the teeth on the tool blade.
Arc type The notch is suitable for working with non-ferrous metals, as well as hard wood such as beech, oak, etc. After such a file, fairly neat scratches are left on the workpiece, which can be easily sanded.
Rasp or point the notch is mainly used for quick removal scale or rust deposits on ferrous metal. It is especially effective for rough processing wood
Stamped The notch is used for the same purpose as the rasp. Its peculiarity lies in its angled teeth, which grip the workpiece like hooks, stripping off its thickness. When working, rough furrows are formed. The teeth wear out quite quickly, so it is better not to use this tool on hard metals. It works great with wood. When processing aluminum, the blade quickly becomes clogged with chips, which are difficult to remove.
Varieties of forms
As for the shapes of files, they are:
- Flat.
- Square.
- Round.
- Semicircular.
- Triangular.
Flat files are suitable for processing large workpieces, With large area removal. They are released different sizes and, as a rule, have a notch on both sides, which allows you to turn the tool over and continue working when driving one of them.
Square the file has a cut on all four sides. This allows processing of right angles in two planes. With their help you can remove the excess layer. This tool is available with different tooth hardnesses. There are square files up to 50 cm long, which allow for accelerated stripping of metal.
Round files are great solution to prepare rounded or perfect round hole. With it you can increase internal diameter, adjusting it to the required parameters.
Semicircular type used in cases where it is necessary to process a rounded surface. The width of such a file is greater than that of a perfectly round file, which eliminates the possibility of excessive deepening of the surface at one point, violating the required geometry.
Trihedral The file is used for filing internal non-right angles. All edges of the tool have a notch, often it differs in height or angle of application, which makes such a tool universal. The triangular type is also suitable for flat surfaces. At the same time, working with it is less convenient than with a straight file due to the small working area of the notches.
How to keep a file in working condition
In order for the file to remain in working condition for as long as possible, it must be cleaned after each use. To do this, use a metal brush. If you leave the chips in the recesses of the blade, then over time they will stick tightly under the influence of corrosion or oxidation, so it will be much more difficult to get rid of them.
Do not treat dirty or wet surfaces. Files are made from hard tool steel, which is susceptible to rust. When traces of corrosion appear, the blade begins to cling to the metal of the workpiece much less effectively, which complicates the work. It is also advisable to avoid surfaces with grease or machine oil. Fat trapped in the notch will cause dust to stick, which will also reduce sanding productivity.
Sharpening a file with citric acid
Over time, even the highest quality solid steel tool gradually loses its sharpness, resulting in it becoming unusable. Files cannot be sharpened like knives, chisels or chisels, so many people simply throw them in the trash or sharpen them into a chisel. In fact, even files can be sharpened without any effort. All that is required is citric acid.
First, the tool must be cleared of clogged chips using a metal brush. After this, the fabric should be washed detergent for dishes or cleaning the stove. This is necessary to remove any remaining dirt and grease. For maximum effect You can use a toothbrush to brush every millimeter of the instrument. After this you need to prepare a solution citric acid, for this you need to take a vertical container of water. This can be a plastic bottle or glass jar that is suitable in height. Citric acid should be poured into it and dissolved. The stronger the solution, the faster effect, but don’t use the whole pack at once - it will be excessive!
The working part of the file should be completely immersed in the acidic solution, so that the entire blade with notches is covered. The handle should remain outside. The duration of infusion of the instrument in the solution depends on the concentration and the steel from which the blade is made. Every few hours you need to remove the file and evaluate its sharpness. To do this, you can use any low-fat preparation. After each test, the instrument should be cleaned with a brush to remove any sawdust. At the same time, it is important to try not to touch the canvas with your hands, since leaving it on it greasy spots from your fingers you can isolate a section of metal from a chemical reaction with acid.
The duration of etching the blade for sharpening can take from several hours to a day if the solution is very weak and the steel is of very high quality. It is also possible to use other acids that react chemically with ferrous metal. It should be borne in mind that stronger solutions emit dangerous vapors that are best not inhaled.
The file is often used for processing metal surfaces. Over time, the tool becomes dull and loses its initial properties. There are several methods that can extend the service life of such a cutting device. How to restore a file yourself and can it be done at home?
A file is a fairly simple tool, which is a steel rod with notches. Using such a cutting device, you can file the surface of metals and various other hard materials.
With frequent use, the working part of the file begins to become dull. This mainly happens when working with viscous materials such as copper, aluminum or stainless steel. During the processing process, metal particles flake off and get clogged into the opening between the notches.
The clogged surface of the file shaft becomes smooth. It is difficult to work with such a tool. It slides on the surface and processing materials requires excessive effort.
Prolonged use of a non-working file can lead to its complete unsuitability. Therefore, at the first changes in the quality of the tool, it is recommended to restore its cutting part.
Sharpening methods
The file can be returned to its working shape using chemical, mechanical, sandblasting and electrochemical methods. Each tool sharpening option requires a special approach and is used for specific purposes.
Chemical
One of the simplest and effective methods file sharpening. Etching in chemical solutions allows you to completely restore the working surface of an old, dull instrument covered with rust.
Before treating a file with a chemical liquid, its surface is prepared:
- All dirt is removed with a metal brush.
- If there is rust, the instrument is treated with a special solution.
- Then the cutting part of the tool is degreased. To do this, you can use any dishwashing detergent or washing powder.
- The file, cleaned of grease deposits, is washed under running water. After this, it must be dipped in acetone to wash away any remaining oil deposits.
After such procedures, the rod with the teeth of the file will become completely clean and prepared for the etching process. For restoration, a special solution is used, the component composition of which has the following ratio:
- 86% – water;
- 8% – nitric acid;
- 6% – sulfuric acid.
The file is dipped into this mixture for ten minutes. The chemical solution allows you to increase the height of the teeth on the cutting surface without changing the thickness of the tool.
After the specified time, a check is performed on the work area. A file that is not sharpened well enough can be re-etched. The restored instrument is washed with soda solution.
Electrochemical
This method of sharpening a file also requires preliminary cleaning of its cutting surface from dirt and grease deposits. After this, the instrument is immersed in an acid mixture:
- 80% – water;
- 11% – sulfuric acid;
- 9% – nitric acid.
In this case, a low voltage direct current is passed through. Aluminum plates are used as cathodes, the area of which must correspond to or slightly exceed the surface area of the file - the anode.
Mechanical
This option for restoring a file involves replacing old notches with new teeth. The working part of the tool is pre-fired.
Heat treatment is performed in a special oven at a temperature of 760 – 820 degrees. After this, the old notch is removed milling machine and completely sand the surface.
New tooth cutting can be done manually using a chisel. Factories use special sawing equipment to produce the ribbed surface of the tool.
The final stage of mechanical restoration of a file is hardening. To do this, use a solution consisting of 50 liters of water, 2 kilograms table salt and 1 liter of hydrochloric acid. After this, the tool is cleaned, washed in water with a small amount of lime to protect against corrosion and dried.
Sandblasting
For this method of file restoration, fine-grained sand is used. It is directed towards the cutting part of the tool at a slight angle. Sharpening is carried out from the shank side. Sand is passed under a pressure of 5 kgf/cm. sq. through a nozzle measuring 5 to 7 centimeters.
The speed of sandblasting depends on the degree of flooding of the teeth and the grade of steel from which the file is made. The sand is directed towards the tool at a right angle. Initially, the main notches are sharpened, and then the surface of the auxiliary teeth is restored.
Restoring a file using folk methods
At home, you can sharpen a file more in simple ways. Many craftsmen use improvised means to restore the cutting part of the tool:
- Citric acid. Dirt and greasy deposits are removed from the file. After this, a solution is prepared - two full teaspoons of citric acid per glass clean water. The file is placed in an acid solution for a day. In this case, you should periodically check the condition of the tool. After restoration, the file must be washed in an alkali solution to neutralize the acid.
- Ferric chloride. The reagent is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:4. The prepared file is immersed in this solution for 1.5 hours. After this treatment, the tool becomes much sharper.
Ferric chloride - file restoration agent Instead of citric acid, you can use vinegar to restore the file. A simple soda solution is successfully used to degrease the surface. The instrument should be boiled in it for 10 minutes.
Prevention measures
To significantly extend service life file, you need to take into account some rules for its use:
- The new tools have fairly sharp, but rather fragile teeth. Therefore, initially the file is not used for processing hard metals. It is worked in on the surface for more than soft materials- brass or bronze.
- When working with a file, you should not use two files at once. cutting sides, so the tool should always have a spare section with sharper teeth.
- For surfaces treated with resins or greasy substances, an old file with worn teeth should initially be used. This will save new tool from rapid contamination.
- Files must be stored separately. To prevent contact with other tools, it is recommended to wrap its cutting part in cardboard paper.
- Before processing soft metals, the file is lubricated with chalk. This avoids frequent clogging of the teeth with small chips.
After each use of the file, use a brush to remove dirt on the shaft between the teeth.
Any old file can be restored. To do this, it is necessary to assess the condition of the instrument and perform a complete cleaning work surface and pick up convenient way for sharpening it.
