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Connecting the pump to the hydraulic accumulator with your own hands. Pressure switch for hydraulic accumulator: information on installation and configuration. Connection diagram using a surface pump

If supply country house water is supplied from a borehole or well, and not from centralized system, then in most cases water supply schemes with a hydraulic accumulator are used. This allows you to ensure uninterrupted supply, good pressure in the network and extend service life pumping equipment.

This article will describe in detail the advantages of using a hydraulic accumulator and options for connecting it to the system. As well as options for laying in-house pipes.

Why do you need a hydraulic accumulator?

Both the well and the well may have insufficient flow (see). In other words, they are not always able to dispense as much water as you need at one time. Sometimes this problem does not arise immediately, but after several years of operation of the source.

It is logical that in this case there should be a supply of water in the house. But not in buckets and cans, but in the system itself. And this can really be achieved if you include a hydraulic accumulator or storage tank in the water supply scheme.

Advantages of a hydraulic accumulator

The storage tank is, as they say, “a thing of the past.” It is inconvenient and not practical.

Judge for yourself:

• It must be installed above water consuming rooms, that is, in the attic. This means that it needs insulation, otherwise the water will freeze in winter.
• Nobody cancels the risk of leaks and tank overfilling. It's rare, but it happens. The consequences are easy to imagine.
• Water from storage tank enters the devices under pressure of its own weight. And this is not enough for the normal operation of plumbing fixtures and especially household appliances– washing machine and dishwasher.

The obvious conclusion is: include in the system storage capacity only makes sense in small houses for summer use, not equipped modern devices. If you live in a house permanently, a water supply scheme from a hydraulic accumulator is more suitable for you.

And that's why:

• This is a more advanced device - it allows you to adjust the pressure in the system according to your needs;
• The hydraulic tank should also be in a warm room, but this problem is easier to solve, since it does not need to be raised to the highest point. The basement of the house and any technical room are suitable for installation;
• Accordingly, possible leaks are not so terrible: water will not wet the ceilings or damage repairs and furniture.

How does he work

The hydraulic accumulator is a sealed container, internally divided into two sections. A rubber diaphragm or a hollow “bulb” can act as a separator.

Water enters one section, and the other contains air, which, as the first section fills, is compressed, creating pressure on the diaphragm.

As the tank empties when dispensing water, the air pressure drops. When it reaches the minimum limit value, the pressure switch is activated, which starts the pump. He pumps water into the tank again until the pressure reaches maximum.

As a result:

• We have a constant pressure in the system;
• The pump does not turn on every time the tap is turned, so its parts wear out less and last longer;
• The water supply scheme with a hydraulic accumulator allows you to always have a supply of water in case of large amounts of water and the inability of the source to produce the required volume at a time.

The volume of the tank is selected based on the needs of the family. It can be either 5 or 500 liters.

What does the system consist of?

Now let's trace the entire path of water from the well/borehole to the tap farthest from the source.

We bring water into the house

So, we have a water source not far from our house. From there it is laid underground into the house water pipe. It must lie below the freezing level of the soil or be laid together with the heating cable.

It is important. When choosing a place for a well, make sure that the septic tank at the dacha outdoor toilet and other objects that pollute groundwater, were at least 30 meters away from him.

The pipe from the source is connected to pumping station. Or, if there is a hole in the well, to a hydraulic accumulator. Always installed in front of the pump check valve so that the water from it does not flow back into the source.

If water is needed not only in the house, but also in the yard, after the hydraulic accumulator, a tee with a tap is installed on the pipe coming out of it. The home pipe leads to a water purification system, at the outlet of which a tee is again installed, separating the flows into cold and future hot water.

Now let’s learn more about how to properly connect a hydraulic accumulator with your own hands. It can be stand-alone or part of a pumping station, depending on whether you are using a submersible or surface pump.

Even with explanations to the picture, it is quite difficult to understand what the assembly consists of and what the purpose of each fitting is.

Let's explain:

Fitting	Connection sequence
	The first is an adapter from a hose to a diameter of 32 mm.
	Next, a tee with a tap is screwed onto it, allowing you to drain water to repair the system.
	This element is necessary if it is necessary to turn the pipe to the station.
	Filter rough cleaning traps sand and small pebbles, preventing them from penetrating the system. Without it, all subsequent elements can quickly fail.
	In case of submersible pump The check valve is installed on the suction pipe. If you use a pumping station with a surface pump, then its place is immediately behind the filter.
	This connecting element allows you to make the unit dismountable for quick replacement of any failed fitting.
	Locking ball valve can be installed anywhere. It is used to turn the water supply on or off.

• If a pumping station is used, all that remains is to connect the assembled unit to it, since a pressure gauge and pressure switch come with it.
• If the pump is located in a well, then the next step is to connect a five-pin fitting through an American one. The diagram below shows what each pin does.

A fine filter or water treatment station is “placed” on the pipe leading to the hydraulic accumulator.

Advice. Before purchasing equipment and assembling it, have your water tested to see what kind of treatment it needs.

Now you can do the internal wiring.

Internal wiring

To supply water to all “consumers”, you need to buy pipes and all kinds of connecting elements. How many of them will be needed? A diagram indicating all elements of the system with distances marked on it will help answer this question.

But first you need to decide which connection method to use.

• Serial connection is easier and cheaper. But with such a connection, when several taps are turned on simultaneously, the pressure at the furthest point from the accumulator will be low.

• A collector connection involves connecting a separate line to each device. They all come out of a common manifold installed at the input. This scheme ensures equal pressure at all points of water consumption. But the cost of plumbing will be significantly higher.

The first method is only suitable for houses with a small number of consumers and a short length of water supply. The second is more practical and effective when it comes to a private house in which one lives big family and all necessary equipment is installed.

• After the tee, dividing the total flow into cold and hot branches, into the pipeline cold water a collector with the required number of leads is installed. Each of them must have a shut-off valve.

• The second pipe after the tee is connected to the inlet pipe of the water heater.

• The pipe leaving the water heater is also equipped with a manifold, from which the lines diverge to individual consumers.

If you think through everything in advance and do the work carefully, the entire unit for pumping, cleaning, heating and distributing water can fit in a small area - in a corner of the room, a closet or a niche.

The following illustrations will help you better understand how to perform different stages works:

Advice. To reduce pressure loss, try to make fewer turns and angles. For example, you can lay lines under the floor in a straight line from the collector to the water distribution device.

Conclusion

Schemes of water supply systems with a hydraulic accumulator will provide no less comfort in a private house than in an apartment with a centralized supply. If you know and understand the operating principle of the system, you can assemble it yourself. If you have everything necessary tools, it's not much more complicated than assembling a constructor.

For more information and to see the process of connecting the most important nodes with your own eyes, watch the video in this article.

The pressure switch for the hydraulic accumulator is fully responsible for its operating mode and the frequency of activation of the pump. This is the main control device of the system. The entire water supply scheme is closely related to the values ​​​​set on it. It is this element that gives the signal to the electric pump to turn on or off.

Place of the device in the water supply system

(GA) consists of a container, a valve for bleeding, a flange, a 5-pin fitting (tee) with couplings for connection, as well as a pressure switch (control unit), which sets the rhythm of all work.

• main control element
• ensures work without overloads
• controls optimal filling of the tank with water
• extends the service life of the membrane and all equipment in general

A pressure gauge that shows the pressure in the tank is included in the kit or can be purchased separately.

The pump pumps water out of the well and directs it through pipes. Next, it enters the GA, and from it into the home pipeline. The purpose of the membrane tank is to maintain stable pressure, as well as the operating cycle of the pump. There is a certain maximum activation for it - about 30 per hour. If exceeded, the mechanism experiences stress and may fail after a short time. The water pressure switch must be adjusted so that the devices operate as expected, without exceeding the critical load.

Setting up a storage tank means creating the required number of atmospheres in it and correctly setting the pump response thresholds

Design and principle of operation

The device looks like a box various shapes with controls under the cover. It is attached to one of the outlets of the fitting (tee) of the container. The mechanism is equipped with small springs that are adjusted by turning the nuts.

Working principle in order:

1. The springs are connected to a membrane that responds to pressure surges. An increase in indicators compresses the spiral, a decrease leads to stretching.
2. The contact group reacts to these actions by closing or opening the contacts, thereby transmitting a signal to the pump. The connection diagram necessarily takes into account the connections of its electrical cable to the device.
3. The storage space fills up and the pressure increases. The spring transmits the pressure force, the device operates according to the set values ​​and turns off the pump, sending it a command to do so.
4. The liquid is consumed - the pressure weakens. This is fixed, the engine turns on.

The assembly consists of the following parts: a housing (plastic or metal), a membrane with a cover, a brass piston, threaded pins, metal plates, cable sleeves, terminal blocks, a hinged platform, sensitive springs, and a contact assembly.

The operating algorithm of the control device is as simple as possible. The mechanism responds to changes in the number of atmospheres inside the drive. The moving platform is raised or lowered by springs depending on the pressure on the piston, which in turn interacts with contacts that signal the pump to start or stop pumping.

Installation

Often the HA kit is sold disassembled, and the control unit must be installed yourself.

Connecting the pressure switch to the hydraulic accumulator looks like this in stages:

1. The station is disconnected from the network. If water has already been pumped into the storage tank, it is drained.
2. The device is fixed permanently. It is screwed onto the 5-pin fitting of the unit or onto the outlet pipe and must be firmly fixed.
3. The wiring diagram is normal: there are contacts for the network, pump, and grounding. The cables are passed through holes on the housing and connected to contact blocks with terminals.

Electrical connection to the pump

Settings

Before adjusting the relay, you need to take into account that its values ​​are inextricably linked with the pressure inside the membrane tank. First you need to create the required amount of pressure inside it, and then move on to working with the control in question.

The adjustment is carried out in 3 stages:

• pressure inside HA
• pump start level
• shutdown mark

For optimal performance it is necessary to adjust the parameters several times experimentally, taking into account the water flow, the height of the pipes and the pressure in them.

Indicators inside the accumulator

It is advisable that the pressure adjustment in the accumulator take into account the following examples and rules:

• For one-story house 1 bar is enough, and if the tank is installed in the basement, then add 1 more
• the value must be greater than at the highest point of water intake
• how many atmospheres should be inside the container is determined by the following formula: add 6 to the height of the pipes to the highest point of water intake and divide the result by 10
• if there are many consumption points or the branching of the pipeline is significant, then a little more is added to the resulting figure. How much to add is determined empirically. There is the following rule for this. If the value is too low, then water will not be delivered to the devices. If it is too high, the HA will be constantly empty, the pressure will be too strong, and there will also be a risk of membrane rupture.

In order to increase the pressure in the accumulator, air is pumped up with an ordinary bicycle pump (there is a special spool on the body); to lower it, it is vented. The pneumatic valve for this purpose is located under the decorative trim. The procedure must be done in the absence of water pressure, which requires simply closing the taps.

The value of the indicators is determined by a pressure gauge connected to the spool. The correction is made after the pump has turned off. The pressure difference is created by opening the tap at the nearest point.

Manufacturers standardly set the pressure in the tank to 1,5 – 2,5 bar. Its increase reduces usable space inside the container and increases the pressure in the system - this must be taken into account when calculating.

Basics of adjusting thresholds

There are two springs with nuts: the larger one is responsible for the values ​​for turning off the pump, the smaller one is for turning on. The bolts are loosened or tightened, thereby making adjustments.

Setting up the accumulator pressure switch will be of high quality if you follow these rules:

• the average recommended difference between the values ​​for turning the pump on and off is 1 - 1.5 atm
• the pressure inside the HA must be lower than the set value to turn on the pump by 10%. Example: if the activation mark is set to 2.5 bar, and the switch off mark is set to 3.5 bar, then there should be 2.3 bar inside the container
• the hydraulic accumulator and control unit have their own load limits - when purchasing, you need to check whether they coincide with the calculations for the system (pipe height, number of intake points, flow rate)

The mechanism in question controls the maximum and minimum pressure in the tank. It maintains the difference in its values ​​when the station is activated and switched off. The limit of its settings depends on the power and hourly flow rate of the pump.

Factory parameters are indicated in the product data sheet. Usually they are like this:

• limit limits – 1 – 5 atm
• pump operating range – 2.5 atm
• starting point – 1.5 atm
• maximum switch-off level – 5 atm

Preparation and example of setting the required values

Preparation:

• tank is connected
• the control unit is adjusted under pressure, the system is not disconnected from the power supply
• inside the unit the pressure should be 10 - 13% lower than that of the pumping station. That is, approximately 0.6 - 0.9 atm than the mark at which the engine turns on
• all taps are closed
• the set level is checked with a pressure gauge within an hour to make sure there are no leaks
• remove the block housing cover to have access to the nuts and observe the springs

Setting with an example of setting marks of 3.2 atm to turn off and 1.9 atm to turn on (two-story house):

1. Start the pump to determine the pressure in the system. It should fill the storage part of the device and increase the pressure.
2. They determine at what pressure gauge reading the shutdown will occur (usually no more than 2 atm.) When exceeded, a small spring comes into action, which is clearly visible.
3. The motor is stopped above 3.2 - 3.3 atm, this figure is reduced by rotating the nut on the small spring a quarter turn, since it is very sensitive, until the motor turns on.
4. They check with a pressure gauge: 3 - 3.2 atm will be enough.
5. Turn on the tap to relieve the pressure and so that the HA is freed from the liquid and record the pump activation mark with a pressure gauge, usually 2.5 atm - the lower pressure indicator has been reached.
6. To reduce the lower threshold, rotate the large spring bolt counterclockwise. Next, start the pump until the pressure rises to the required level, after which you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge. An acceptable value is 1.8 - 1.9 atm. When “failure” occurs, the nut is rotated clockwise.
7. Once again, adjust the small spring a little, clarifying the already set thresholds.

The adjustment bolts are very sensitive - turning just 3/4 of a turn can add 1 atm. The pressure of the switched-on pump should be 0.1 - 0.3 atm higher than in an empty storage tank, which will prevent damage to the “bulb” inside it.

The setup process in brief

For a better understanding of how to set up a pressure switch, we will outline the process more clearly:

• pump activation mark (minimum pressure): rotating the large spring bolt clockwise increases the starting mark, counterclockwise decreases it;
• value for shutdown: move the small spring, when tightening - the pressure difference increases, when unscrewing - the actuation mark decreases;
• the result is checked by opening the tap and draining the water, recording the moment the pump is turned on;
• The internal pressure force is adjusted by deflating or pumping air and checking this with a pressure gauge.

Increasing the factory switching parameters (above 1.5 atm) creates a risk of critical load on the hydraulic tank membrane. The operating range of the pump is adjusted taking into account the maximum possible load for the water fittings. The sealing rings of household taps can withstand a maximum of 6 atm.

Maintenance, problems, operation

Preventative actions and repairs:

• mechanical sensitive parts need to be checked and adjusted
• It is advisable to clean the contacts
• If it doesn’t work, don’t rush to disassemble the mechanism - first try to knock lightly, not too much heavy object along the body
• Rocker joints are lubricated with grease once a year
• do not tighten the adjustment nuts completely - the mechanism will not work

If the device does not hold pressure, does not work correctly, or does not work at all, refrain from hasty conclusions and do not throw it away. Dust, debris, sand in the membrane space prevent it from reacting normally. Steps to fix the problem are:

1. Unscrew the 4 bolts on the bottom, remove the cover with the inlet pipe and the cover.
2. Carefully rinse the membrane and the cavities around it.
3. Install all elements in reverse order.
4. Set the thresholds again and carry out a test run.

Experts recommend that before setting up the relay correctly, do not exceed the upper threshold by more than 80% maximum acceptable values for a specific model, which are indicated in the instructions (standard about 5 - 5.5 atm.).

For quality work there should be no air in the pipeline. Periodically (once every 3-6 months) you need to check the set response thresholds, pressure indicators in the HA, and bleed or pump in air. Before you start setting up, you need to find out whether the pressure switch for the hydraulic accumulator and the unit itself can withstand the required loads, and whether its technical capabilities meet them.

When supplying a building with water from a well or well, a hydraulic accumulator must be installed, which is a container of suitable volume. It is usually used in conjunction with a special pressure switch. For the hydraulic accumulator, it is a control device that allows you to reduce the number of pump operating cycles.

Main components pumping unit with hydraulic accumulator

From point of view design features relay is a block small sizes equipped with special springs. The first of them determines the limit of maximum pressure, and the second - the minimum. The adjustment is made using auxiliary nuts located inside the housing.

The working springs are connected to a membrane, which reacts to pressure surges in one way or another. Exceeding the maximum values ​​leads to compression of the metal spiral, and a decrease leads to stretching. Thanks to this device, the contact group closes and opens contacts at a certain moment.

The operating principle of a pressure switch for a hydraulic accumulator is as follows. IN membrane tank Water enters until it is completely filled, which leads to an increase in pressure. With achieving the maximum permissible level stops pumping fluid.

As water is consumed, the pressure in the system drops. When the lower level is overcome, the equipment will turn on again. Cycles of on and off are repeated again and again until the system elements are in working order.

Typically a relay consists of the following elements:

• plastic housings;
• rubber membrane;
• brass piston;
• membrane cover;
• threaded studs;
• metal plate;
• couplings for cable fastening;
• terminal blocks;
• articulated platform;
• adjusting springs;
• contact node.

Addition! During operation, adjustment springs apply pressure to the moving part of the platform, counteracting the force created by the piston. Turning the pump on and off depends on the degree of compression.

Optimal pressure inside the hydraulic tank

Any hydraulic accumulator inside has a rubber membrane that divides the space into two chambers. One of them contains water, and the other contains compressed air. Thanks to this structure it is possible to create required pressure when filling and emptying the rubber container.

To extend the life of the device, you need to know what pressure should be in the accumulator. It largely depends on the indicators set to turn on the pump. The pressure inside the tank should be approximately 10 percent less.

For example, if the turn-on is set to 2.5 bar and the turn-off is set to 3.5 bar, then the air pressure inside the container should be set to 2.3 bar. Ready-made ones usually do not require additional adjustment.

Carrying out work on connecting and setting up a pressure switch for a hydraulic accumulator

Although many people consider the process of installing and adjusting the device to be difficult to understand, in fact it is not. Each owner of a country house with a well or well can independently connect and configure the device to provide the building with water.

Standard diagram for connecting a pressure switch to a hydraulic accumulator

The finished product interacts with both water supply and electrical system building. When the contacts are closed and opened, liquid is supplied or shut off. The pressure device is installed permanently, since there is no need to move it from place to place.

It is recommended to allocate a separate electricity line for connection. Directly from the shield you should run a cable with a copper core with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters. mm. It is not recommended to connect wires without grounding, because the combination of water and electricity is fraught with hidden danger.

The cables should be passed through the holes located on the plastic housing and then connected to the terminal block. It contains terminals for phase and neutral, wires for the pump.

Note! Electric installation work must be carried out in a disconnected state from the network. When installing, you must not neglect compliance general rules technical safety.

Correct setting of the accumulator pressure switch

To adjust the device, an accurate pressure gauge is required to determine the pressure without errors. Based on its readings, you can make a relatively quick adjustment. By turning the nuts located on the springs, the pressure can be reduced or increased. During setup, you must follow a certain sequence of actions.

So, the pressure switch for the hydraulic accumulator is adjusted as follows.

• The system turns on, after which, using a pressure gauge, the indicators at which the device turns on and off are monitored;
• First, the lower level spring is adjusted, having big sizes. For adjustment, use a regular wrench.
• The set threshold is tested. If necessary, the previous point is repeated.
• Next, the nut for the spring is rotated, allowing you to adjust top level pressure. It is smaller in size.
• The system is fully tested. If for some reason the results are not satisfactory, then re-tuning is performed.

Note! Before setting up the accumulator pressure switch, you need to remember a simple truth. The minimum permissible difference between the maximum and minimum values ​​should not be less than 1 atmosphere.

Cost of relays and hydraulic accumulators of some manufacturers

Relay models can be purchased relatively inexpensively. Usually the cost of products does not exceed one thousand rubles. However, electronic analogues may have a higher price, as they allow for more precise adjustments. The table shows models of some manufacturers and their prices.

Image	Model	Dimensions in millimeters	Price in rubles
	Gilex RDM-5	110x110x70	900
	Danfoss KP1	107x65x105	1 570
	Belamos PS-7	150x80x150	575
	Caliber RD-5	103x65x120	490

Related article:

If the water pressure is normal or even strong, then you simply need this device. You will find out why in our separate review.

As for hydraulic accumulators, their cost can be noticeably higher. It mainly depends on the volume of the structure. A large tank can significantly reduce the number of work cycles. However, there is not always enough space for it. The table shows prices for hydraulic accumulators for different sizes.

Note! On average, a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 50 liters is usually enough for a family of 4-8 people. If there are fewer people living, a capacity of 24 liters is purchased, and if there are more people, 100 liters.

Summarizing

Since a hydraulic accumulator cannot function without a pressure switch, which is a control device, special attention was paid to the installation and configuration of this particular device. With proper adjustment of the product, it is quite possible to extend the operating period of the main equipment.

Adjusting the pressure switch of the hydraulic accumulator of the pumping station - nothing complicated (video)

You might also be interested in:

Self-installation and adjustment of the water pressure switch for the pump

A hydraulic accumulator is an extremely useful device for organizing autonomous water supply, and to improve the performance of the system connected to central water supply.

A master with at least minimal experience in performing plumbing work, you can easily install the hydraulic accumulator with your own hands and connect it to the water supply system.

Agree, the key to successful completion of work is an understanding of the structure and operating principle of the equipment. We will help you understand these issues, and also describe and illustrate step-by-step technology installation of a hydraulic accumulator.

Information about connection, setup and implementation current repairs storage tank will be useful during its operation.

Water is taken from this device and pumped throughout the day. As a result, the unit is constantly influenced by the operating process, during which it makes noise and vibrates. This point should be taken into account when choosing a place to install it.

Image gallery

Schematically, the connection of the pumping station can be represented in the following steps:

1. Prepare a solid base in a suitable location for installation.
2. Install the pumping station on the base.
3. Measure and adjust the air pressure in the empty hydraulic accumulator.
4. Install a fitting with five outlets onto the outlet pipe of the hydraulic accumulator.
5. Connect the pipe of the surface pump to the outlet of the fitting.
6. Connect a water pipe to the other outlet.
7. Fill the accumulator with water.
8. Check the presence/absence of leaks at the threaded connections.
9. Set up the pressure switch.

A surface pump is not always used in the autonomous water supply system of a private home. Owners deep wells you have to use special submersible pumps.

The process of connecting the hydraulic accumulator to the water supply system is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Lower the submersible pump prepared for operation into the water source (well, well, etc.)
2. Connect the pressure hose or water supply pipe of the pump to the fitting with five connectors.
3. Connect the accumulator pipe to one of the fitting outlets.
4. Install a pressure gauge and pressure switch.
5. Connect the accumulator to plumbing system Houses.

When connecting a hydraulic tank to a submersible pump, an installation should be provided that will prevent water from flowing into the well when the pump is turned off.

A few important nuances

To connect the hydraulic accumulator, special flexible adapters are used. This helps reduce the effect of vibrations on the plumbing system.

It should be taken into account that in this area, between the water supply and the hydraulic accumulator, it is unacceptable to reduce the clearance of the connecting structures, since this will worsen the hydraulic characteristics of the system.

To reduce the influence of vibration that occurs during operation of the hydraulic tank, it is recommended to use special flexible leads. Their dimensions should not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet to which the connection is made

The initial filling of the tank with water must be done very slowly. The point is that when long-term storage the rubber membrane, made in the shape of a pear, could simply stick together.

A sharp flow of water can tear the gasket, but with low pressure it will straighten out neatly. Another one indeed important point– before supplying water to the accumulator, air must be completely removed from the part into which water will be pumped.

Immediately after unpacking the purchased battery, and/or immediately before connecting it, you need to measure the pressure of the air that is pumped inside. This figure should be 1.5 atm, this is how hydraulic accumulators are pumped during manufacture. However, during storage in a warehouse before sale, leakage of some of this air is a completely natural phenomenon.

Most reliable option for such measurements - a regular car pressure gauge with a suitable gradation scale, allowing measurements to be taken with an accuracy of 0.1 atmosphere. As practice has shown, it is not worth using cheap Chinese plastic models for these purposes; their accuracy is highly questionable.

Electronic models are condition sensitive environment, and this is too expensive an option for a conventional accumulator.

What should the air pressure be in a hydraulic tank filled with water? It all depends on the situation.

A pressure of 1.5 atmospheres will provide quite decent water pressure in the plumbing system. But it should be remembered that the higher the pressure, the smaller the volume of water stored in the tank. If you need both a solid supply of water and good pressure, it makes sense to look for a large-volume tank.

To monitor the air pressure in the hydraulic tank, it is recommended to use a regular automobile pressure gauge, which allows measurements with an accuracy of 0.1 atmosphere

It is recommended that the operating parameters of the air pressure in the hydraulic accumulator be less than the minimum pressure that causes the pump to turn on, by approximately 0.5-1.0 atmospheres. Sometimes they do things differently.

The air pressure in the accumulator is left at 1.5 atmospheres, as set at the factory, and the value minimum pressure or switching pressure is calculated as 2.0-2.5 atmospheres. Thus, to the air pressure in an empty tank - 1.5 atmospheres - add this difference of 0.5-1.0 atmospheres.

Excessive pressure does not have a very good effect on the integrity of the hydraulic tank elements, but low air pressure in it is not beneficial either. If you reduce this indicator to a level of less than one atmosphere, the membrane will touch the walls of the tank. This will lead to its deformation and rapid failure.

Two springs are used to regulate the pressure switch. Using the first, you set the pump shut-off pressure, and using the second, you set the difference between the maximum and minimum pressure.

After the system is installed and connected, it is necessary to configure the pressure switch. For this purpose, there are two adjusting nuts with springs under the housing. The procedure for adjusting the pressure switch is usually described in detail in the instructions that come with the device.

Rules of operation and repair

Connecting and setting up the hydraulic accumulator correctly is only half the battle. For the device to work long time, it must be properly operated and periodically performed preventive inspection and maintenance.

The instructions require medical examinations to be carried out twice a year, but practice shows that this is not enough. The condition of the hydraulic accumulator should be checked every three months. At the same frequency, it is advisable to monitor the settings of the pressure switch in order to correct them if necessary.

Incorrect operation of the relay creates additional loads on the entire system, which can also affect the condition of the accumulator.

If during inspection dents or traces of corrosion are found on the device body, these damages must be repaired. It is best to do this as early as possible, otherwise corrosion processes will develop, which can lead to damage to the integrity of the accumulator housing.

An important preventive measure is checking the pressure in the hydraulic tank itself using a pressure gauge. If necessary, the device should be pumped required quantity air or release excess air.

If this does not help and the new pressure gauge readings do not correspond to the expected ones, it means that either the integrity of the accumulator body is compromised or its membrane is damaged.

If the membrane installed in the accumulator is worn out, you can try to replace it with a new one. To do this, the device will have to be dismantled and disassembled.

Some craftsmen manage to detect and repair areas of damage to the body, but such repairs are not always durable and reliable. The rubber liner or membrane is the weak point of the accumulator. Over time it wears out.

You can replace the membrane with a new element at home, but to do this you will have to completely disassemble and reassemble the hydraulic accumulator.

Choosing appropriate place to install a hydraulic accumulator, it should be remembered that it must be spacious enough to carry out Maintenance devices

If a home craftsman doubts his abilities in this area or does not have sufficient experience, he can cause even more damage to the device than the previous breakdown. In such a situation, it is better to contact a service center.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

An overview of the operation of a 50-liter hydraulic accumulator is presented in the following video:

This video clearly demonstrates the procedure for adjusting the pressure in the hydraulic tank and setting the pressure switch:

The advantages of using a hydraulic accumulator are obvious, so this device is increasingly being used both in private houses outside the city and in metropolitan apartments. If the unit is installed and connected correctly, it will work for many years without breakdowns or interruptions, providing the family with high-quality water supply.

Do you have experience in self-installation and connecting the hydraulic accumulator? Please share information with our readers, tell us about the features of setting up and operating the hydraulic tank. You can leave comments in the form below.

To ensure water supply to summer cottage, a hydraulic accumulator is required. It will provide the required level of pressure. This unit always has a supply of liquid, which makes the system autonomous. Installation of such an element does not require special skills, and the work can be done with your own hands.

Hydraulic accumulator.

Functions, purpose, types

The main function of the hydraulic accumulator is to ensure stable pressure. In the absence of a device in the system, the pump wears out, even the most reliable equipment under such conditions it deteriorates quickly.

Moreover, the process also affects other elements of the system. When pressure changes, they experience water hammer.

Purpose

The use of such devices to smooth out water hammer is the main purpose of their use. But they are also connected to the system to solve other problems.

For example:

1. Ensuring stable pressure. To do this, two additional elements are connected - a pressure gauge and a pressure switch.
2. Creating a small supply of liquid if the device does not work due to lack of electricity or other factors (for example, in case of failure due to breakdown).
3. Increasing the service life of the unit by reducing the number of its starts.

Kinds

The hydraulic accumulator is a tank made of either plastic or high-quality metal. The device is divided into 2 zones by a special membrane. It is made of elastic material.

Hydraulic accumulator design.

There are 2 types of membranes - in the form of a balloon (pear) and in the form of a “plate”-diaphragm. In the latter case, transverse fastening is practiced. And if we are talking about a cylinder, then it is fixed directly to the inlet pipe.

Depending on the purpose, there are types of equipment used in heating systems, cold and hot water supply. They are distinguished as follows: heating hydraulic tanks are red, and those intended for water supply are blue. Devices used in heating systems are cheaper and are produced in smaller volumes.

For a pumping station, devices cost more due to the membrane material. It is subject to higher requirements, since the water in the tap must be suitable for drinking.

Depending on the installation features, vertical and horizontal devices. Type 1 hydraulic tanks are equipped with a stand, but some versions are equipped with plates for wall mounting. When installing a water supply system with their own hands, owners often choose vertical models, since they are more compact and require little space.

- A common type of equipment, but many systems use surface varieties. For them good choice There will be horizontal hydraulic accumulators. When installing them, the device is placed on top of the container to save space.

If the systems are connected vibration pumps, then vertical or horizontal models can be connected.

Operating principle of a hydraulic accumulator.

When there is air inside the structure, the standard pressure is 1.5 atm. When the pumping equipment is turned on, water is pumped into the container. The more fluid enters, the more the free space of the hydraulic tank is compressed.

When the pressure reaches a given level (for 1-story dachas - 2.8-3 atm.), the pump is turned off, which stabilizes the work process. If you open the tap at this time, water will flow from the tank until the pressure level in the water supply drops to 1.6-1.8 atm. After this, the electric pump turns on and the entire cycle starts again.

If the water consumption is high, the well unit will pump water in transit, it will not enter the hydraulic tank - it is filled only after the taps are closed.

Automation is responsible for switching on depending on the specified indicators. This is a pressure gauge and pressure switch, thanks to which the operation of the equipment is optimized.

Large tanks

Hydraulic tanks with a volume exceeding 100 liters are considered large. Although the operating principles will be the same as described above, there are slight differences.

The membrane is attached at the top/bottom so that you can deal with air jams V aquatic environment. In such tanks, an additional valve is installed that automatically releases air.

How to choose tank volume?

The tank contains a supply of water when the pump is turned off, so when choosing, you need to proceed from the indicator of its consumption - for this it is summed up average consumption liquids at each intake point. For a house where 2 people live, a 25 liter tank is enough.

Specified in technical documentation meaning - general indicator for a container, and there will be half as much liquid in it.

What should be the pressure in the accumulator?

The air when supplied in the hydraulic tank has a pressure value of 1.5 atm. These are factory settings and do not depend on volume.

The maximum value is reflected in the technical documentation. It is determined by the characteristics of the membrane itself.

Preliminary check and pressure correction

After connecting the accumulator to the system, be sure to check the pressure in it, since the correct operation of both the relay and the system depends on this. It is convenient to monitor the indicator using a pressure gauge, which is installed at the top or bottom of the tank, where it becomes a piping element.

What air pressure should be

The pressure must ensure normal operation of all connected household appliances. The average is 1.4-2.8 atm. Here you also need to take into account the presence of a membrane. To prevent it from deteriorating, the pressure inside the system should slightly exceed the pressure inside the tank, by 0.1-0.2 atm.

Pressure in the accumulator.

These are the levels for a 1-story dacha; for a 2-story house, the pressure increases taking into account the height of the highest water intake point.

How to choose?

Regardless of where the pump is located, in a well or well, the hydraulic accumulator is selected taking into account the characteristics of its membrane, since it bears the main load.

The material from which it is made plays an important role, since it affects the service life of the equipment. Food grade rubber is considered the most suitable for the membrane.

As for the case material, it does not matter. It is better to choose a flange from a stainless alloy or galvanized steel.

Connecting the accumulator to the system

IN standard version The water supply system of a country house includes, in addition to the pipeline, components such as a pressure switch and one that prevents the flow of water into the well. It must contain a pressure gauge, a pump and a hydraulic accumulator.

Connection to the system.

Features of connecting all of these elements come down to the choice of connection - with a fitting or in a more complex way.

With or without five-pin fitting

When a surface pump is connected, the hydraulic accumulator must be installed near it, while the check valve is placed on the suction pipes, and the remaining listed components are mounted in 1 bundle.

The connection is made using a five-pin fitting. It is a device with leads different diameters corresponding to the elements listed above.

But the process can be carried out without a fitting, and fittings and pipe sections will be used instead. But this option is considered more labor-intensive and less reliable.

With a 1-inch diameter outlet, the fitting is installed on the tank so that the pipe faces downward, and pressure control devices are connected to the 1/4-inch outlets each. Then the remaining elements are added.

How to install two hydraulic tanks on one pump

Sometimes, during the use of the structure, water consumption increases and the equipped hydraulic tank is not enough. In such cases, you can install 1 more tank in parallel.

No system reconfiguration is required. The pressure switch must monitor the indicators in the hydraulic accumulator in which it was originally supplied. But the reliability of the system increases - if 1 tank fails, the 2nd one will continue to work.

When an additional connection is made to a hydraulic accumulator, you need to install a tee at the input of the existing one, connect a pump to any of its outputs, and connect a new tank to the second one.