Potato. A ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters. How to grow a potato crop. How to get a ton of tubers per hundred square meters - experience in growing potatoes Dutch technology for growing potatoes
Experienced gardeners know from personal practice that a potato harvest of about a ton per hundred square meters is not fantasy, but reality. For skeptics, I will give a calculation: on a hundred square meters (let me remind you, this is a plot of 10 by 10 m, i.e. 100 square meters) with a planting pattern between rows of 60-70 cm, and in a row of 25-30 cm, an average of 500-600 tubers are placed. Potential yield per bush is 1.5-2 kg. That's a ton for you!
I think I won’t be mistaken if I say: most amateur potato growers receive no more than 150-200 kg per hundred square meters. It’s not difficult to count how much they dig up from each bush. In my opinion, this is an offensively low harvest that does not cover the enormous labor costs and expenses. I believe that 50% of the harvest depends on the quality of the varietal material, and another 50% on the correct agricultural technology.
Most potato varieties degenerate over time for various reasons (usually after 7-10 years): the tubers reduce their seed quality, and the yield falls. There is a need to replace varieties and planting material with high reproductions of “super elite - elite”, which cost lately very expensive. Therefore, after purchasing a small amount of planting material, potato propagation usually takes several years. To quickly propagate valuable seed material, I advise you to use the method of forcing seedlings, which is also called seedling or tuberless.
It is known that potato tubers have 3-5 dormant buds in their eyes, which can alternately germinate when a previously formed sprout is rejected. To obtain potatoes from sprouts, the tubers are first laid out on diffuse light for 2-3 weeks so that they green up and their eyes hatch. Then the tubers are transferred to containers, laid out in one layer at some distance from each other for 2-2.5 weeks and covered with a layer of moistened sawdust, peat or soil. Moreover, they do this so that the covering layer rises 2-3 cm above the tubers. In this case, the temperature should be within 12...18 ° C. If necessary, the covering layer is watered. When a rosette of leaves appears on thick, strong sprouts and they form a powerful root system, tubers are carefully selected from the substrate. Optimal height The sprouts should be 8-10 cm long. Then the sprouts are carefully separated from the tubers and planted one at a time in open ground according to the 60-70x20-25 cm pattern. They are buried so that the sprout rises no more than 1-2 cm above the soil surface cm. At the same time, they try to place the roots of the sprout in the hole so that they do not bend upward.
If the time for planting has not yet come, and the sprouts cannot yet be planted on the ridge, then they are planted in separate containers with fertile soil. For planting seedlings, it is better to choose cloudy weather (or plant in the afternoon), when the weather decreases. solar activity and eliminates the possibility of burns. After planting, the seedlings are watered if necessary, especially in dry weather. And the seed tubers are reused, placing them again in the same substrate.
Potatoes love structured, fertile soil, well amended with organic fertilizers. Vegetable growers should know that this is a culture of loose, light, sandy loam soils, and you need to strive to make your site like this by adding sand, peat and organic matter. I advise you to give up the time-consuming and harmful habit of digging a site with a shovel. The fact is that when turning over, soil living organisms that process organic residues die. Fertility is created by billions of microorganisms working on the site and thousands of earthworms producing vermicompost. If this is not the case, then the soil will be dead, and then good harvest don't wait any longer.
You can loosen the soil with a garden fork or, even better and easier, with a Fokin flat cutter. This tool does not disturb the internal world of the soil, as happens when digging with a shovel; it allows soil microorganisms to develop to their full potential. As a result, the land on the site becomes looser and more fertile every year.
The best time to plant potatoes usually coincides with the beginning of bud break on birch trees. By this time the soil has already warmed up sufficiently. I recommend new way planting potatoes on ridges. The soil warms up better in them, and more air flows to the underground part of the plants, which is important. With ridge planting there are fewer weeds and it is easier to remove tubers.
When starting to plant potatoes, use a marker or a cord to mark rows every 60-70 cm; it is advisable to give them the direction from north to south. In waterlogged areas with close standing groundwater the tubers are laid out approximately 25-30 cm apart, directly on the surface of the soil, and on light, highly fertile soils they are planted in depressions made with a stake or some other tool. The tubers are sprinkled with soil taken from the inter-row spaces so that oval ridges 6-8 cm high are formed above the row. Emerging shoots to avoid damage spring frosts Spud up, covering it with a 2-3 cm layer of soil.
Subsequently, 1-2 more hillings are carried out. In the intervals between hilling, loosen the soil between the rows without damaging the root system, and remove weeds. Due to this, a more powerful root system is created, which leads to increased yield.
Regarding selection of varieties, then it should be said that there is no “best” variety. Need to experience various varieties, giving the greatest harvest on your site, since the same variety can produce excellent yields in one place, and mediocre ones in another, this depends on many factors. As a result, you need to select at least 3-4 varieties that differ in early ripening. This will guarantee a good harvest in years with different weather conditions, because one variety may not produce a harvest this year, but another will help you out.
Based on many years personal experience, I can recommend the following potato varieties as promising:
- early - Udacha, Zhukovsky, Nevsky, Bryansky (domestic), Premier, Karin, Svitanok (foreign);
- mid-season - Golubizna, Sotka, Lorkh, Kolobok (domestic), Skarb, Diamant, Lugovskoy, Lasunak (foreign).
I can offer about 20 varieties to all gardeners who want to purchase elite potato tubers. Contact the address: 161214, Vologda region, Belozersky district, p/o B. Novishki - Valery Gennadievich Lokhanov. Be sure to include a blank envelope with a return address and postage stamps in your application letter. detailed description varieties and sales conditions.
Valery Lokhanov, potato grower
Photo by E. Valentinov
Our current interlocutor - Misha Grigorievich VERKHOV- on your own personal plot he gets record harvests of all vegetable crops, including potatoes.
– 500-600 kg of potatoes per hundred square meters is the dream of every gardener, many get even more moderate results. What is the yield of this crop in your degrees
– From a ton and above. Such a high result is achieved thanks to many factors: healthy cereal soil, high-quality seeds, strict adherence to all rules of agricultural technology. Why doesn’t every tiller get the highest yields? Everyone’s dachas are old, the plots were usually allocated to inaccessible areas, all are clogged. In addition, we ourselves “poiled” them with all sorts of fertilizers, spraying against diseases and pests. And therefore, in order to get a decent potato harvest, you first need to put the land in order, in other words, make it healthier. Healthy soil is the basis for yields for absolutely any crop, whether we grow cucumbers, tomatoes or potatoes. On my site the land has a high agricultural background. Naturally, I have been achieving this for many years; I have been working with potatoes for 15 years. IN recent years switched to the latest technology.
– What does it mean to bring the earth into order of degrees?
– I am not a fan of chemical fertilizers. In recent years, the only fertilizer on my plot is compost. Still, I get a measured harvest. It is necessary, firstly, to add at least 5-6 kg very much to the area where you will grow potatoes. good compost, 100-200 grams of ash for each square meter. This is the first thing you can do with the land. Secondly, to obtain the highest yield, you need to have suitable seed material, at least the first or second reproduction, and even better, elite.
– Misha Grigorievich, please tell me what type of potato you think is the best2
– There are many types of potatoes, and it’s difficult for me to give an absolutely precise answer to this question. You need to be aware of the purposes and why you need potatoes. Let's say he's so handsome productive variety, like Rosara, “serves” me for certain purposes. Rosara makes excellent fried potatoes in strips; they are perfect for salads and vinaigrette. The tubers have a low starch content and do not boil softly. Why the mid-late variety Itessa degrees is not bad? Its tubers are boiled medium, and a tasty puree comes out of them. I don’t like it when so-called “soapy” potatoes are used for soup, borscht or mashed potatoes. The early ripening variety Arosa stands out because its tubers, in addition to other advantages, have a high presentation. They are especially good for stir-fries and salads. The universal variety Phellox has beautiful properties. Its tubers are good in any form - for frying, for salads, and boiled, seasoned with herbs. I work with varieties such as Arosa, Rosara, Zekura, Itessa, Red Lady, Sprint, Miranda, Phellox.
– The agricultural technology of growing potatoes is, in general, well known. And yet, each potato grower brings something of his own into this process. And what “highlights” do you use when planting and caring for it2
– As for the planting method, there are three types. In most cases, the so-called continuous planting method is used. Another method is planting in ridges. And the third one, which I prefer, is planting potatoes in beds. Each of these methods has its pros and cons. When planting using the accepted technology, it becomes difficult to care for potatoes (weeding, spraying against Colorado potato beetle) at the time when the bushes close. Planting in ridges is good where the soil is very languid.
I will dwell in more detail on the advantages of my own method. I have two rows in the ridge, the distance between the ridges is 1 m. I plant potatoes in 2 paired rows in a checkerboard pattern. It turns out to be the so-called triangle landing. I adhere to the rule: where the plant is planted, there should be no human footsteps; I process the potatoes by walking along wide rows. When I hill up the bushes, a groove appears between 2 rows. It is very convenient to water and feed the plantings along these grooves: put a hose between the rows - and there are no problems with watering. It is comfortable to approach the rows when collecting the same Colorado potato beetle.
– What are the other advantages of planting on ridges?
– All gardeners, naturally, saw that the last bushes of all plants, including potatoes, are always more productive, because they are more illuminated by the sun and receive a huge area of nutrition. When planting potatoes in beds and certainly in a checkerboard pattern, I get all the bushes
Spring is the time to plant the main crop - potatoes. Many gardeners have experienced
the opinion that potatoes are an unpretentious crop, no matter how you plant them, they will grow, but this,
Of course not. If you plant it somehow, you will get a meager harvest.
Amateur potato growers are proactive people, everyone knows their secrets. Up to a ton
They get potatoes per hundred square meters!
We want to introduce you to some of the most rational methods of growing potatoes that allow you to get high yields.
First of all, let us recall the generally accepted method of growing potatoes. In the fall, manure is brought in - 600 kg per hundred square meters - and the ground is dug up. In the spring, they dig up again, level and make holes in the rows at a distance of 30 cm from each other. 70 cm are left between the rows. Tubers weighing 50-70 g each are selected for planting. If the manure has not been scattered since the fall, then in the spring rotted or half-rotted manure is added to the holes; and you will need 200-300 kg per hundred square meters. It is recommended to add the same amount of ash and 5-7 g (teaspoon) of nitroammophoska at this time. Sprouted tubers are laid out to a depth of 6-8 cm. The ground is leveled after planting. Before the emergence of seedlings, the ground is loosened again to remove the crust. Twice a season, after rain or heavy watering, the plantings are hilled.
For one hundred square meters they spend 22-30 kg of potatoes or 435 tubers. The harvest is about 200 kg per hundred square meters.
Technology of Vladimir Petrovich Ushakov, which works in the Solnechnogorsk district of the Moscow region, is based on the use of manure processed into vermicompost and a particularly careful attitude towards soil organisms, which he calls “living matter”.
In early March, in piles of manure V.P. Ushakov uses a crowbar to punch holes all the way to the ground and by the end of April he receives a half-rotted mass containing many earthworms and microorganisms.
Vladimir Petrovich begins cultivating the land quite late, from April 28 to May 15, when at a depth of 10-12 cm the earth warms up to 8-10 degrees. He doesn't make garden beds. The soil is loosened to a depth of 15 cm with a fork without turning the layer, leveled and evenly marked over the entire surface for holes.
Each hole is located in all directions from neighboring holes at a distance of 45 cm (according to the principle of an equilateral triangle). He makes them quite wide and 15 cm deep. He pours about 700 g of rotted manure with worms into each and covers it with a 2-3 cm layer of soil on top. Sprouted tubers weighing 70-90 g with 5-7 sprouts are planted at a depth of 6-8 cm Covers the top with soil taken when digging the next hole, without turning the layer over.
When the potato tops grow to 20-25 cm, carry out circular hilling only once, leaving the top 5-8 cm of the tops uncovered.
None further care, including watering, is not required.
V.P. removes potatoes Ushakov no later than the second half of August. Using this technology, in an illuminated area, fertile soil and under favorable weather conditions, the “Belarusian Pink” variety gave a record result - 1150 kg per hundred square meters! Variety "Sineglazka" under the same conditions - 700 kg. On poor soils, potato yields grown using the Ushakov method are reduced by 2 times, and if the area is not very well lit, then by 4 times.
Spends V.P. Ushakov for one hundred square meters is 40-50 kg of potatoes or 550 tubers. The American vegetable grower Dr. Mittlider grows potatoes, like other vegetables, on narrow beds 0.45 m wide and 9 m long with passages of at least 75 cm. On the day of planting, pre-sowing fertilizer is applied to undug soil - mixture No. 1 and mixture No. 2. After When applying fertilizer, the soil is dug up and ridges with sides are formed. Sprouted tubers weighing 50-70 g are planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other with inside sides. When the shoots appear, fertilizing begins - 4 times with an interval of 4-10 days. For this purpose, pour 450 g of mixture No. 2 in a narrow strip in the center of the ridge and dissolve it by watering. In dry weather, it continues to water even after fertilizing is finished. Watering is especially important when buds are formed and during the flowering period.
Some scientists believe that during the time of the Incas, potatoes were cultivated on such round terraces 50 km from the famous Inca capital of Cusco.
Planting potatoes in the generally accepted way according to the method of Mittlander, Bulanov, Ushakov.
For more uniform lighting, it is better to place the rows from north to south.
Mittlider potatoes do not loosen or hill up; some of the tubers sometimes end up close to the surface and may turn green. Therefore, during the budding period, it is recommended to mulch the plantings by 2-3 cm.
On one hundred square meters, Mittlider places 8 beds and uses 25-35 kg of potatoes or 490 tubers. From each ridge he receives 70 kg of potatoes in the fall, the yield per hundred square meters is 550 kg. A resident of the Tula region, Viktor Alekseevich Bulanov, developed his method over the course of 8 years. In the fall, he applies 600-800 kg of manure to each acre and digs the soil onto the bayonet of a shovel (to a depth of 25 cm). In the spring, before planting, he applies the main mineral fertilizer: he scatters 5 kg of nitroammophoska (marked 17-17-17) over the soil surface and digs again, but to a depth of 15 cm. The plot is leveled and divided into strips of unequal width: behind a 20-cm strip there is a strip 80 cm wide, then again 20 cm, etc. The direction of the stripes is strictly from north to south. Sprouted potato tubers are laid out along the boundaries of 20-centimeter strips directly on the surface of the soil at a distance of 30 cm from each other. On the resulting double rows of tubers lying on flat ground, he rakes earth from wide strips so as to cover the tubers only by 2-3 cm.
As the tops grow, the potatoes are hilled up at least three times (in the spring, in case of cold weather, it is recommended to hill up the young tops high).
Feeding V.A. Bulanov begins in early summer after the onset of stable warm weather. Three times per season, with an interval of approximately 10 days, applies linear meter double row of 50 g of nitroammophoska - in the hollow between the rows. Fertilizes before rain or combines fertilizing with watering. To prevent the fertilizer solution from draining, when dividing the plot, make sides of soil at the ends of the rows.
When the tops close together, he stops fertilizing, and piles the tops of adjacent rows on top of each other and hills them up so that a flat mound is formed without a hollow in the middle. Since then, it has only been weeded periodically, and in dry weather it has been watered (sprinkling).
Shortly before harvesting, roll the tops with a log and leave them in this state for about a week. After that, he mows it at a height of 15-20 cm, and after a few days he digs up the potatoes.
Per hundred square meters V.A. Bulanov spends 30-40 kg of potatoes or 590 tubers weighing 50-70 g. The yield is 600-700 kg per hundred square meters. You can get up to a ton per hundred square meters!
In the summer of 1991 V.A. Bulanov studied with Dr. Mittlider at the agricultural department of the seminary. In the future, he plans to combine the benefits of balanced plant nutrition according to Mittlider with his own method.
PLANTING IN TWO TIERS
For the second year now, he has been growing potatoes using a new two-tier method proposed by Oleg Yuryevich Georgiev from Krasnodar region, an experienced gardener with extensive experience Marina Yanovna Stein from the Moscow Society for Nature Conservation.
She divides the area for potatoes into strips 30 cm wide with intervals of 60-70 cm between them. For every 3.5 m, she adds 8-10 kg of humus and 0.5 kg of ash. He digs up and makes grooves 8 cm deep along the edges of the strips on both sides.
In the first furrow potatoes the size of chicken egg lays them out at a distance of 30 cm from each other, and in the other at the same distance, but 15 cm away from the edge. Thus, the potatoes in the second furrow are staggered in relation to the first.
He fills up the ridges and begins planting the second tier of potatoes. Having retreated 15 cm from the beginning of the first furrow, she lays out the tubers at the same distance of 30 cm from each other, but already on the surface of the soil.
In the second furrow With opposite side The tubers are also placed on the surface of the soil, but in a checkerboard pattern. The top rows of potatoes are covered to a depth of 3 cm with soil from the paths.
So, in each furrow, two vertical rows of planting are obtained: one at a depth of 11 cm (8 + 3 cm) and the second at a depth of 3 cm, with one tuber shifted relative to the other by 15 cm.
When the potatoes grow to 10-15 cm, Marina Yanovna hills them to a height of 20 cm only once per season. The earth for hilling is taken from the paths. As a result, each ridge takes the shape of a trapezoid with four rows of potatoes - two rows at a depth of 31 cm and the other two at a depth of 23 cm. Each of the two rows does not interfere with the other, being in a vertical plane.
M. Stein waters and, if necessary, feeds the plantings only until flowering. The tops are cut off two weeks before harvesting, leaving stumps 7-10 cm high. The dug up potatoes are treated with concentrated hydrochloric acid(1-2 g per 10 liters of water). Immerse the tubers for 1-2 minutes, after two or three times of use the solution is changed. After this treatment, the potatoes do not spoil; you can store them directly raw
A ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters. How to grow a potato crop
A ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters. How to grow a potato crop
Is it possible to grow a ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters?
Nothing is impossible.
To get a large potato harvest, you need a lot good soil, healthy tubers and compliance with certain agricultural practices.
Each potato grower has his own method of obtaining big harvest potatoes.
I have my own. I live in Siberia, in Kemerovo region. Previously, like everyone else, I planted potatoes in a public field. For the last 10 years I have been planting hundreds of potatoes at the dacha, and this is enough for a family of 4 people.
On average, from 1 acre, I harvest up to a ton of potatoes, it all depends on weather conditions.
The land at the dacha is fertilized, in addition, in a shady corner garden plot I have a pile with plant residues in which worms of the “Prospector” breed live. These tireless workers very quickly process organic matter into vermicompost and multiply.
Vermicompost is an environmentally friendly fertilizer that has a positive effect on the harvest of all garden crops. Potatoes are no exception.
In the fall, I roughly dig up the soil for the potatoes without breaking up the lumps.
In the spring, I loosen the soil with a rake, do not allow moisture to evaporate through cracks in the soil and fight the first weeds in the state of cotyledon leaves.
When the earth warms up enough, which is usually May 15-20, I begin planting potatoes.
I use the Belarusian variety Lasunok. Miracle, not potatoes! The Lasunok variety is similar to the President of Belarus - just as powerful, healthy and prolific.
I plant potatoes along a line. You can laugh. Two pegs with a cord between them. I stretch it and guide the landing along the cord.
I make holes - as usual, to the depth of a shovel bayonet. the distance between the holes is 30 cm. In each hole - a large 300 g mug of vermicompost and sprouted potatoes. I move the pegs to 70 cm and continue further.
When making holes in the 2nd row, I fill the 1st row with potatoes, etc.
Until the potatoes have sprouted, I rake the top layer of soil - loosen and remove newly emerged weeds.
When the potatoes grow to 10 cm in height, I do the first weeding, then the second. I don’t hill potatoes as a matter of principle.
After hilling, intensive growth of tops, not tubers, occurs. Do I need this?
Many summer residents have a different opinion on this matter. To each his own.
I water the potatoes regularly, but generously. Water is supplied to the garden from a warm canal. At the end of the watering hose there is a regular store nozzle.
I fertilize 3 times per season, at intervals of 14 days. Approximately 10 g of nitroammophoska per bush. Fertilizing should be combined with watering.
If the tubers begin to come to the surface, I mulch the rows with straw; we have enough of this goodness.
I dig as follows: I go to the hole, dig up the bush with a small pitchfork and pull it out. I select the tubers and place them around the hole to dry. I don't use a scraper. I extract all the tubers from the nest with a pitchfork. There are no small items, so the potatoes don’t fly through the forks.
And so I go through the entire landing. I rest for 30 minutes. During this time, the potatoes dry out. I take a bucket and select seed potatoes. This must be done after digging.
You approach the hole and see what kind of potatoes have grown there. Choose tubers from the best bushes for seeds!
The majority of summer residents select potatoes for planting in the spring from a common pile. I don't see anything good in this! What are you choosing there?
I keep the seed potatoes in the sun for several days until they turn green. After such sunbathing Seed potatoes are well stored and germinate well next spring.
I collect the rest of the potatoes and immediately put them in the cellar. The potatoes are already dry! There is no need to pour it into heaps several times to dry it and lower it into the cellar in parts.
I came, I saw, I conquered. And - for autumn fishing, on the Ob for a week!
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A ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters. How to grow a potato crop Is it possible to grow a ton of potatoes from one hundred square meters? To get a large potato harvest, you need very good soil, healthy tubers and compliance with certain agricultural practices. Each potato grower has his own way of getting a large potato harvest. I have my own.
I live in Siberia, in the Kemerovo region. Previously, like everyone else, I planted potatoes in a public field. For the last 10 years, I have been planting one hundred square meters of potatoes at the dacha, and this is enough for a family of 4 people. On average, from 1 hundred square meters, I collect up to a ton of potatoes, it all depends on weather conditions. The land at the dacha is fertilized, in addition, in a shady corner of the garden plot I have a pile with plant residues in which worms of the “Prospector” breed live.
These tireless workers very quickly process organic matter into vermicompost and multiply. Vermicompost is an environmentally friendly fertilizer that has a positive effect on the yield of all garden crops. Potatoes are no exception. In the fall, I roughly dig up the soil under the potatoes, without breaking the lumps. In the spring, I loosen the soil with a rake, do not allow moisture to evaporate through cracks in the soil and fight the first weeds in the state of cotyledon leaves. When the earth warms up enough, and this is usually around 15 - May 20, I start planting potatoes. I use the Belarusian variety Lasunok.
Miracle, not potatoes! The Lasunok variety is similar to the President of Belarus - just as powerful, healthy and prolific. I plant potatoes along a line. You can laugh.
Two pegs with a cord between them. I stretch it and plant it along the cord. I make holes - as usual, to the depth of a spade bayonet, the distance between holes is 30 cm. In each hole - a large 300 g mug of vermicompost and sprouted potatoes.
I move the pegs 70 cm and continue further. Making holes in the 2nd row, I fill in the 1st row of potatoes, etc. Until the potatoes have sprouted, I rake the top layer of soil - loosen and remove newly emerged weeds. When the potatoes grow to 10 cm in height, I do the first weeding, then the second. I don’t hill up potatoes as a matter of principle. After hilling, intensive growth of tops, not tubers, occurs.
Do I need this? Many summer residents have a different opinion on this matter. To each his own. I water the potatoes regularly, but generously. Water is supplied to the garden from a warm canal. At the end of the watering hose there is a regular store-bought nozzle. I fertilize it 3 times a season, at intervals of 14 days.
Approximately 10 g of nitroammophoska per bush. Fertilizing should be combined with watering. If the tubers begin to come to the surface, I mulch the rows with straw, we have enough of this goodness. I harvest on September 1st, 5th, and make sure to choose a sunny day. I dig as follows: I approach the hole, dig up the bush with a small fork and pull it out .
I select the tubers and place them around the hole to dry. I don't use a scraper. I extract all the tubers from the nest with a pitchfork. There are no small things, so the potatoes don’t fly through the forks. And so I go through the entire planting process. I rest for 30 minutes.
During this time, the potatoes dry out. I take a bucket and select seed potatoes. This must be done after digging. You approach the hole and see what kind of potatoes have grown there.
Choose tubers from the best bushes for seeds! The majority of summer residents choose potatoes for planting in the spring from a common pile. I don't see anything good in this! What do you choose there? I keep the seed potatoes in the sun for several days until they turn green.
After such sunbathing, the seed potatoes are perfectly stored and sprout quickly next spring. I collect the rest of the potatoes and immediately put them in the cellar. The potatoes are already dry! There is no need to pour it into heaps several times to dry it and lower it into the cellar in parts.
I came, I saw, I conquered. And - for autumn fishing, on the Ob for a week!
1. Growing potatoes under straw (under hay, under dried grass, under sawdust, under dry leaves...) on a garden scale has been practiced for a long time and in all regions. This is no longer an experiment, but rather a well-established experience.2.
The weight of a straw cube of 40 kg given in many reference books is the density of the straw in the stack, and fluffed straw when laid out over potatoes turns out to be 4 - 6 times less dense, therefore the real need is 40 - 50 t/ha and experience has confirmed this. I didn’t notice any particular late blight in the straw.3. I really have never seen potatoes grown under straw on an industrial scale.
I think the technology is very promising, which is why I decided to experiment. I used existing equipment, the Golubizna variety - marketable tubers, North-West, loam. I think 15 hectares, for potatoes, can already be considered an industrial scale.4.
Pre-planting treatment: with a huller twice (generally depending on the weather), with a break of 10 days, to a depth of 3 - 5 cm. - Potato planter without openers, in fact, just a surface layout of tubers 40 x 40 with row spacing of 140 cm, it turned out 1,600 kg/ha. , at the beginning of June. - There are unwinders of hay and straw rolls (trailed and mounted) used for fattening cattle on ranges: covered 2-line plantings in 3 layers - the total layer was 40 - 45 cm.5. No mineral water, no organic matter (well, except for the straw itself) was introduced, there were no treatments until the harvest itself, and accordingly, no wheels trampled on the straw.6.
Three days before harvesting, we went over the tops and straw with a mulcher (a fairly standard technique). We harvested with a trailed Grimme combine. During separation, there was approximately the same amount of organic matter as during traditional technology(most of the straw had already rotted before harvesting), but there was much less land (the tubers were located on the surface), therefore the harvesting speed increased by more than 2 times. I believe that practice has shown the absolute applicability of this technology for industrial use. In garden plots, the technology gives up to 1,200 - 1,600 kg per hundred square meters, as opposed to 300 - 400 kg of traditional ones, with significantly lower labor costs. Yes, despite all my unpreparedness, I received 650 c/ha, higher than average yield both in the region and in the district, and I believe this is not the limit. But most of all, I am pleased with the cost of 2.5 rubles. , and this is together with your straw logistics, but without expensive mineral water, without chemicals, without a dozen extra treatments, without unnecessary equipment.
How to fill your cellar with excellent potatoes. Three laws of fertility.Law 1. Soil fertility is created by “living matter”, consisting of myriads of soil bacteria, fungi, worms, etc. Their biomass per hectare of virgin black soil is 15-20 tons - this is the live weight of 50 heads of cattle! Imagine what a “herd” is working in the soil and fertilizes it every minute?
This is what determines soil fertility! This is precisely the main secret of high productivity. Law 2.
As much carbon is deposited in plants as it enters in the form of carbon dioxide (more precisely, carbon dioxide). We can say that carbon dioxide is the main food of plants.
They take it from the soil, where it accumulates as a result of the respiration of microorganisms and worms. Do you know that fertile soil contains tens of times more carbon dioxide than in the atmosphere? What follows from this?
There is only one thing: we need to protect it, and not reduce it by pointless digging and plowing. Law 3. Soil microorganisms live in a thin layer of soil, only 5 to 15 cm deep.
And it was this thin layer, as V.I. Vernadsky noted, that created all living things on all land. When the shovel is turned over, all the carbon dioxide so necessary for plants evaporates into the atmosphere. Anaerobic bacteria, accustomed to living without air, end up at the top and die, while aerobic bacteria rush into the depths, where there is no air for them, and also die.
If there are no bacteria, the plants are doomed to starvation. Not only do they pour chemical fertilizers in order to get a high yield - under the plausible pretext of feeding the plants. But in fact - destroying the last remnants of soil microorganisms. And thereby only reducing the fertility of the soil, dooming oneself to low yields...
The secret of high potato yields
Life on Earth, as is known, is created in two forms: plant and animal. And by and large, animals exist by eating plants. And plants grow due to the fact that they feed on animals, using the breakdown products of their protein bodies, that is, pus.
Hence the exact popular word: humus. Soil that is not poisoned by chemicals is home to a huge number of bacteria and worms. The more there are, the more humus. And the more humus, the higher the harvest.
That's the whole secret high yields!
Preparing soil for potatoes
During the winter, soil bacteria freeze out so much that their optimal mass is restored only by the end of June. It turns out that during the most critical period of growth, plants lack nutrition: there are still few bacteria in the soil, which means there is little humus. What to do? Prepare the soil for a high harvest.
How? To obtain a super harvest, you need to increase the content of soil microorganisms in it. First of all, in no case should you dig up the area, as is usually done. Everything that once grew must be returned to the earth: leaves, straw, weeds in the form of cuttings, peat, and manure... Preparing the soil for the future harvest (and not only potatoes, but also other crops) begins in the fall , immediately after harvesting. For the first time, you will have to dig up the garden, but this must be done, taking care not to harm living matter.
How? Along the front of the area allocated for planting, the first furrow is dug to the depth of a spade bayonet. Then this groove is filled with straw or herbal cuttings (5-6 cm in size) or fallen leaves - whatever organic matter is on hand.
Then this mass is sprinkled with brown coal crushed into powder. Why? Remember the second law of soil fertility. Vernadsky determined that “living matter” lives in the soil layer from 5 to 15 cm.
The top layer, up to 5 cm thick, in which there are very few microorganisms and which serves as a kind of protective crust, is called supersoil. This layer can and even needs to be processed - in any way. But everything that is located below the supersoil cannot be dug or plowed with a plow to turn the layer over!
You just need to loosen it. And therefore yours spring training soil, instead of traditionally digging up the garden, should be reduced to loosening it with a pitchfork. The depth of loosening should be all of 15 cm, or even deeper, which helps excess moisture seep into the lower layers.
The long roots of plants will get it from the depths, and excess moisture is not needed in the upper layers. Applying fertilizers before sowing can and should be practiced, especially in the first years, switching to reasonable agricultural practices. Fertilizers must be applied not in the zone where microorganisms live (5-15 cm) , and into the zone of plant life: for seeds - when sowing, for tubers - when planting. The seeds are located above heaps of rotted manure, sprinkled with a 1-2 cm layer of soil.
Under the tubers, 500-700 g of rotted manure or compost is poured into the holes. Moreover, the humidity is 50%. This is when a handful of manure, squeezed in the palm, retains its original shape, but collapses when touched.
Preparation of planting material
It also needs to be prepared in the fall, during the harvest period. Potatoes weighing from 30 g to 100 g are selected. This seed material must be immediately greened, keeping it in the light for 10-12 days.
During this time, the substance solanine is formed in the tubers, which makes the potatoes unsuitable for food - you can get poisoned. But this same solanine well protects planted potatoes from pathogenic fungi, bacteria and rodents. And in the spring, planted potatoes need to be vernalized, that is, germinate in the light for 30-50 days.
In this case, the tubers should be kept warm for the first week, at 16-18 degrees, and then the temperature should be lowered so that the last week before planting it is 4-6 degrees Celsius. This is how the tubers undergo hardening. Small potato slices with eyes can be hardened in the refrigerator. And a large batch of seed material can be laid out on lattice racks, scattering the tubers in two layers.
This vernalization should begin 35 days before planting. If the indoor air is dry, spray the tubers with water after 3-5 days.
By the end of the germination period, healthy strong sprouts up to 3 cm long will form from the potato eyes. If there are no racks, you can use wire or nylon fishing line and string potatoes on them. These “beads” are hung so that the potatoes are exposed to light and air from all sides. Tubers can also be sprouted in damp bedding.
At the bottom of a basket or box with a lattice bottom, damp sawdust, peat or flooring is poured with a 2 cm layer. Degree of humidity: when squeezing the material in your hand, water should not drip. Potato tubers are laid out on top of the litter and the same layer of wet material is poured again.
So row by row, 4-5 layers of potatoes are laid. After a few days, roots develop on the sprouts. The room temperature is maintained at 13-15 degrees Celsius.
Germination time is 7-10 days. This method is especially good for producing early potatoes. It is better to take large tubers. With regular sowings, tubers can be planted in the soil after 15-18 days.
By this time they will have not only sprouts, but also fibrous roots. What does vernalization give? It shortens the development time of potatoes and eliminates the threat of crop failure due to the risk of early autumn frosts.
What is the best way to plant potatoes?
In rows? Nests? On the ridges? Garden beds? In the holes? Thickened? Or broadly?.. Reasonable agricultural technology answers these questions like this: it is necessary to sow (or plant) taking into account the laws of interspecific and intraspecific struggle, discovered by Charles Darwin. If planted densely, the plants will fight with each other for food, for sunlight. If you plant it rarely, then weeds will appear in the empty space, and interspecific struggle will begin, reducing the yield.
What to do? A potato bush requires a circle of soil with a diameter of 45-50 cm. According to reasonable agricultural technology, a triangular planting and sowing pattern is most suitable for this crop.
As a working tool, a cord with knots is used, under which sowing or planting is done. You go through one row, and then go through the second row, shifting the cord so that you end up with an equilateral triangle. What next?
This is what folk expert V.P. Ushakov writes in his book “Productivity should and can be increased 5 times in one year”: “After loosening the entire area with a pitchfork, its surface is leveled with a rake. All other spring technological operations – marking, applying manure and planting tubers – are carried out on the same day.”
Hilling
It must be taken into account that the root system of potatoes is superficial. The roots grow wider than deep. In hilled potatoes, the roots in loose soil occupy the maximum space between rows around them.
And tubers form under the fringe of roots. Moreover, the tubers in this case are always smooth and round. And potatoes have a completely different life in dense, heavy soil! The plant is forced to develop with its roots downwards, where the soil is “softer”. And because of this, the scope of its nutrition decreases.
In hard soil, and even in the absence of hilling, the tubers form clumsy, with all kinds of dents and growths. There are few large specimens, but there are more than enough small ones!
And the farmer scolds the variety: it is bad, they say, it has degenerated... It is important to understand when it is better to plant potatoes in ridges, and when, on the contrary, in furrows or holes. If your soil is heavy, then you must definitely use hilling. And in areas where it often rains, use planting in ridges, since the ridges are better warmed up, aerated and also protect the potatoes from getting wet during prolonged rains. Holes and furrows are preferable for the purpose of more complete use of rain or irrigation water.
And also to facilitate hilling, when the soil of the raised rows is poured onto the stems. In a word, everyone knows that potatoes need to be hilled. And they try, if possible, to hill earlier, more often and higher. It is believed that only then will there be a good harvest.
However, not everything is so simple here. To obtain high yields, it is necessary to take into account not only the importance of hilling, but also other important components in growing potatoes. In which zone are you involved in potato farming?
What varieties are you growing: early or late? How important this is, you can judge by the fact that, for example, potato growers in the northern zone begin to hill up sprouts when they reach a height of 5-6 cm and carry out 5-7 hillings per season. And in the southern zone, only 1-2 hillings are carried out and the same result is obtained. To increase the potato yield, it is useful to carry out hilling after rain or watering. Another requirement is the need for hilling during the period of bud formation.
After all, at this time the formation of tubers begins. Therefore, it is necessary not only to rake the soil towards the stems, but also to move the stems apart and spread them to the sides. For what?
To form an increased yield, the plant requires more sun, so you need to give it space for better foliage formation. It is in the leaves that carbon dioxide and other nutrients are used solar energy are converted into carbohydrates, including tuber starch. The requirements of the variety should also be taken into account.
If you late varieties There is plenty of time for maturation, but the early ones experience a shortage of it. Therefore potatoes early varieties Hills up only once. Then fewer stolons are laid down.
And with less of them, it is easier for the plant to produce large tubers in a short time, since nutrition is not wasted on trifles. There is another pattern: the entire harvest of potato bushes is located at a depth of no more than 15 cm. There are no potatoes below.
And if they do occur, then this is just a “pea” trifle. Hence the conclusion: the hilling mound should be voluminous. After hilling, it is useful to apply liquid fertilizer “under the stake” and sprinkle the row spacing with mulch. It will slow down the emergence of weeds, and most importantly, turn on the air irrigation mechanism.
Air irrigation
What is it? As is known, the temperature in the soil is always lower than in the air. And if the soil is loose, then moisture condensation occurs in its layer. The air gives it its moisture and nourishes the plants.
The higher the air temperature, the more water it contains, which means more daytime dew settles in the soil. Provided that, we emphasize once again, it is loose, accessible for moisture penetration. Moreover, if the soil is loose, enriched with organic matter, then there is no need to buy and add nitrogen fertilizers to provide plants with nitrogen.
Unfortunately, not all farmers take into account that nitrogen itself can arrive with the air and be evenly distributed in the soil. This is not at all beautiful phrase. Remember: air contains 80% nitrogen!
Your fertility
Feeding
With reasonable agricultural practices, when enough humus has accumulated on your site, you will no longer need to feed the plants. But in the first 2-3 years you will have to use fertilizer solutions. It is better to bring them in “under the stake”.
This is an ancient and very wise technique of Russian gardeners. Its essence is ingeniously simple, and most importantly, it is harmless to the “living matter” of the soil. Using a pointed stick (stake), you press a hole 20 cm deep in the ground between the plants and pour the fertilizer solution into it.
This must be done before hilling. The solution will spread in the soil far enough from the fragile roots and will not burn or damage them. And the plant will then use your feeding at its own discretion - when it needs it. It is better to use bird droppings for feeding.
It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. And approximately in the proportions that plants need. Therefore, feeding bird droppings can be used not only for potatoes, but also for any crops.
The benefit of such a solution increases when wood ash is added to it (2: 1). It is prepared as follows: a day before applying the fertilizer, bird droppings are poured into the container and filled to the top with water. Then the mixture is thoroughly mixed, breaking up the lumps, and ash is added.
To feed it, it is diluted with ten parts of water and poured under the stake. Consumption - 6-8 kg of dry bird droppings with ash per hectare of land. A good additive for increasing the yield and adding silt from lakes, swamps, and duckweed to the soil. After fertilizing, it is necessary to loosen the soil or hill up the potato bushes. One more useful advice: Tuber ripening is accelerated by foliar feeding.
The tops are sprayed with a solution ammonium nitrate And copper sulfate(250 g of saltpeter, 10 g of vitriol, dissolved in 40 liters of water, the solution is enough for 10 acres). Best time– morning and evening. This foliar feeding stimulates the outflow of accumulated substances from the tops into the tubers.
At the same time, the same watering awakens and stimulates the development of soil microorganisms. But they need food to reproduce. And if you give it in abundance, that is, add as much organic matter as possible to the soil (straw or weed cuttings, sawdust, leaves, etc.), then the amount beneficial bacteria will increase sharply. And plant seedlings (and seedlings, seedlings, cuttings) treated with the Biostim solution receive additional growth energy and noticeably outperform their relatives who did not receive such treatment.
How to be less affected by drought
If in your area in the summer, from year to year, the soil heats up above +30...+40 °C, you need to use other methods of growing potatoes. At a daytime air temperature of about +29 °C, the formation of tubers stops. To at least partially avoid this, it is necessary: – plant potatoes as early as possible: at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm +6...+7 °C; – increase the depth of planting tubers to 10-12 cm; – reduce the distance between rows to a minimum, that is, to 55-60 cm; – water the plantings only in the inter-row spaces.
A good option for planting potatoes
– Stretch a rope along the area, on both sides of which make grooves 10 cm deep. – Line the bottom of each groove with old hay or straw. In rainy summers, this litter serves as drainage, and in dry summers it retains moisture well. – Lay out in a checkerboard pattern planting material, the distance between the tubers is 30 cm. – Sprinkle half a handful of ash and humus on each potato. – Fill the furrows. – Then hammer in the pegs with a rope 140 cm from the first groove.
