A simple asynchronous windmill generator. Homemade wind generator: principle of operation, how to make it yourself? From the washing machine
This section presents homemade wind generators with generators based on converted asynchronous motors. Wind generators based on such motors are very popular, since asynchronous motors are widespread and can be easily converted. The alteration mainly consists of rewinding the stator, although not always; if the engine is multi-lane and low-speed, then it does not need to be rewinded. Also, the rotor of such engines is machined and equipped with permanent magnets, as a result the engine turns into a low-speed generator for a windmill.
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Wind generator based on an asynchronous motor with a wooden propeller
A short description and photographs of a homemade wind generator based on asynchronous motor, which is converted to naodymium magnets 
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Wind generators from a motor-wheel
The article contains a short description with photos of wind generators with generators, which are a wheel motor. Eat different designs according to the type of fastening of the motor wheel 
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Wind generator 1kW from an asynchronous motor
Wind generator from an asynchronous motor 1500 watt, 1500 rpm, four-pole, which was converted to permanent magnets, and the stator was rewound to 12 poles. The protection scheme against strong wind is classic with the generator axis shifted from the center. The windmill runs on night lighting that turns on automatically. 
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Converting an asynchronous motor into a generator for a windmill
Building your own generator for a wind generator is, in principle and in essence, simple and can be easily accomplished without significant expenditure of both effort and money. To do this, you just need to convert the rotor to permanent magnets. 
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Wind generator from an asynchronous motor
Another interesting photo story about converting an asynchronous motor into a generator for a wind generator. The engine rotor was machined for magnets, which were filled in as always epoxy resin. The stator was not rewound, so the generator turned out to be high-voltage with high phase resistance. The wind generator itself is made according to the classic design with a folding tail and is installed on a nine-meter mast. 
> Photo story about the manufacture of a wind generator, its debugging and installation, preparation, anemometer. Testing and tests. This material was written based on a photo report by a user under the nickname Sergey, found on one of the forums. The first stage, calibration and installation of the anemometer, conversion of an asynchronous motor into a generator
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To make a wind generator with a power of up to 1 kW yourself, there is no need to purchase special equipment. This problem can be easily solved if you have an asynchronous motor. Moreover, the indicated power will be quite sufficient to create conditions for the operation of individual household appliances and connect street lighting in the garden at the dacha.
If you make a windmill with your own hands, then you will have a free source of energy that you can use at your discretion. Any home handyman is able to manufacture independently a wind generator based on an asynchronous motor.
What does the generator consist of?
The generating set that will generate electricity includes the following main elements:
Operating principle
Operation homemade windmills carried out by analogy with wind generators which are used in industry. The main purpose is to generate alternating voltage, for which kinetic energy is transformed into electrical energy. The wind drives a rotor-type wind wheel, as a result of which the resulting energy flows from it to the generator. Moreover, usually the role of the latter is performed by an asynchronous motor.
As a result of the current generated by the generator, the latter enters the battery, which is equipped with a module and a charge controller. From there it is sent to a DC inverter, the source of which is the power grid. As a result it is possible to create an alternating voltage, the characteristics of which are suitable for use for domestic purposes (220 V 50 Hz).
A controller is used to transform AC voltage into DC voltage. It is with its help that the batteries are charged. In some cases, inverters are capable of performing the functions of a source uninterruptible power supply. In other words, in case of problems with the power supply, they can use batteries or generators as a power source for household devices.
Materials and tools
To make a wind generator, it is enough to have an asynchronous motor, which will have to be redone. At the same time, you will have to stock up on a number of materials:
Generator characteristics and installation
The generator has the following characteristics:
Installation features
Most often, installing a generator yourself is done using a three-bladed wind wheel, reaching a diameter of about 2 m. The decision to increase the number of blades or their length does not lead to improved performance. Regardless of the chosen option regarding the configuration, dimensions and shape of the blades, preliminary calculations should first be performed.
During self-installation you need to pay attention to such a parameter as the condition of the soil of the area where the support and guy wires will be placed. The mast is installed by digging a hole no more than 0.5 m deep, which must be filled with concrete mortar.
Network connection carried out in a strictly defined order: the batteries are connected first, followed by the wind generator itself.
The rotation of the wind generator can be carried out horizontally or vertical plane. In this case, the choice is usually made on the vertical plane, which is due to structural design. It is permissible to use Darrieus and Savonius models as rotors.
The installation design must use sealing gaskets or a cap. Thanks to this solution, moisture will not harm the generator.
The location of the mast and support must be selected open place. A suitable height for the mast is 15 m. In this case masts are the most widely used, whose height does not exceed 5-7 m.
It is optimal if a self-made wind generator functions as a backup power source.
These installations have restrictions on their use, since their operation is only possible in those regions where the wind speed reaches about 7-8 m/s.
Before you start creating a windmill with your own hands, do accurate calculations. In some cases, difficulties arise with processing asynchronous motor components;
A windmill cannot be created without electrical modules, as well as a series of experiments.
How to make an asynchronous generator with your own hands?
Although, always you can purchase a ready-made asynchronous generator, you can go the other way and save money by making it yourself. There will be no difficulties here. The only thing you need to do is prepare the necessary tools.
- One of the features of the generator is that it should rotate at a higher speed, rather than the engine. This can be achieved in the following way. After starting, you need to find out the engine rotation speed. A tachometer or tachometer will help us solve this problem.
- Having determined the above parameter, 10% should be added to the value. If, for example, its torque is 1200 rpm, then for a generator it will be 1320 rpm.
- To make an electric generator based on an asynchronous motor, you will need to find a suitable capacitance for the capacitors. Moreover, it should be remembered that everything capacitors should not differ in their phases from each other.
- It is recommended to use a medium-sized container. If it turns out to be too large, it will lead to heating of the asynchronous motor.
- For assembly capacitors should be used, which can guarantee the desired rotation speed. Their installation must be taken very seriously. It is recommended to protect them using special insulating materials.
These are all the operations that must be performed when installing an engine-based generator. Then you can proceed to its installation. Please note that when using a device equipped with a squirrel-cage rotor, you will receive a current of high voltage. For this reason, to achieve a value of 220 V, you will need a step-down transformer.
These works have practically nothing in common with each other, since it is necessary to create system components that are different in essence and purpose. For the manufacture of both elements, improvised mechanisms and devices are used that can be used or converted into the required unit. One of the options for creating a generator, often used in the manufacture of a wind generator, is manufacturing from an asynchronous electric motor, which most successfully and efficiently solves the problem. Let's consider the question in more detail:
Making a generator from an asynchronous motor
An asynchronous motor is the best “blank” for making a generator. For this purpose it has the best indicators of resistance to short circuit, less demanding on the ingress of dust or dirt. Besides, asynchronous generators they produce “cleaner” energy; the clear factor (presence of higher harmonics) for these devices is only 2% versus 15% for synchronous generators. Higher harmonics contribute to engine heating and disrupt the rotation mode, so their small number is a big advantage of the design.
Asynchronous devices do not have rotating windings, which largely eliminates the possibility of their failure or damage from friction or short circuit.
Also important factor is the presence of a voltage of 220V or 380V on the output windings, which allows you to connect consumer devices directly to the generator, bypassing the current stabilization system. That is, as long as there is wind, the devices will work exactly the same as from the mains.
The only difference from the operation of the full complex is that it stops working immediately after the wind subsides, while the batteries included in the kit power the consuming devices for some time using their capacity.
How to remake a rotor
The only change that is made to the design of an asynchronous motor when converting it into a generator is the installation of permanent magnets on the rotor. To obtain greater current, sometimes the windings are rewinded with a thicker wire, which has less resistance and gives better results, but this procedure is not critical, you can do without it - the generator will work.
Asynchronous motor rotor does not have any windings or other elements, being, in fact, an ordinary flywheel. The rotor is processed in lathe for metal, there is no way to do without it. Therefore, when creating a project, you must immediately resolve the issue with technical support works, find a familiar turner or an organization engaged in such work. The rotor must be reduced in diameter by the thickness of the magnets that will be installed on it.
There are two ways to install magnets:
- manufacturing and installation of a steel sleeve, which is placed on a rotor previously reduced in diameter, after which magnets are attached to the sleeve. This method makes it possible to increase the strength of magnets and field density, which contributes to more active formation of EMF
- reducing the diameter only by the thickness of the magnets plus the required working gap. This method is simpler, but will require the installation of stronger magnets, preferably neodymium ones, which have much greater force and create a powerful field.
The magnets are installed along the lines of the rotor structure, i.e. not along the axis, but slightly shifted in the direction of rotation (these lines are clearly visible on the rotor). The magnets are arranged in alternating poles and fixed to the rotor using glue (epoxy resin is recommended). After it has dried, you can assemble the generator, which our engine has now become, and proceed to test procedures.
Testing of the newly created generator
This procedure allows you to find out the degree of efficiency of the generator and experimentally determine the rotor rotation speed required to obtain the desired voltage. Usually they resort to the help of another motor, for example, an electric drill with an adjustable chuck rotation speed. By rotating the generator rotor with a voltmeter or light bulb connected to it, they check what speeds are required for the minimum and what is the maximum power limit of the generator in order to obtain data on the basis of which the windmill will be created.
For test purposes, you can connect any consumer device (for example, a heater or lighting device) and make sure it works. This will help resolve any questions that arise and make any changes if the need arises. For example, sometimes situations arise with the rotor “sticking” and not starting in weak winds. This happens when uneven distribution magnets and is eliminated by disassembling the generator, disconnecting the magnets and re-strengthening them in a more uniform configuration.
Upon completion of all work, a fully working generator is available, which now needs a rotation source.
Making a windmill
To create a windmill, you will need to choose one of the design options, of which there are many. Thus, there are horizontal or vertical rotor designs (in this case, the term “rotor” refers to the rotating part of the wind generator - a shaft with blades driven by wind force). have more high efficiency and stability in energy production, but need a flow guidance system, which in turn needs ease of rotation on the shaft.
The more powerful the generator, the more difficult it is to rotate it and the greater the force the windmill must develop, which requires it large sizes. Moreover, the larger the windmill, the heavier it is and has a greater resting inertia, which forms a vicious circle. Typically, average values and values are used that make it possible to create a compromise between size and ease of rotation.
Easier to manufacture and not demanding on wind direction. At the same time, they have less efficiency, since the wind acts with equal force on both sides of the blade, making rotation difficult. In order to avoid this drawback, many various designs rotor, such as:
- Savonius rotor
- Daria rotor
- Lenz rotor
Known orthogonal designs(spaced apart relative to the axis of rotation) or helicoidal (blades having complex shape, resembling spiral turns). All these designs have their advantages and disadvantages, the main one of which is the lack of a mathematical model of the rotation of one or another type of blade, which makes the calculation extremely complex and approximate. Therefore, they use the trial and error method - an experimental model is created, its shortcomings are found out, taking into account which the working rotor is manufactured.
The simplest and most common design is a rotor, but in lately There are many descriptions of other wind generators created on the basis of other types appearing on the Internet.
The design of the rotor is simple - a shaft on bearings, on the top of which blades are mounted, which rotate under the influence of the wind and transmit torque to the generator. The rotor is manufactured from available materials, installation does not require excessive height (usually raised by 3-7 m), it depends on the strength of the winds in the region. Vertical structures require almost no care or maintenance, which facilitates the operation of the wind generator.
Verification: 72146f0e872f9296
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Selling wind generator power 300 watts, with plastic blades, rotary device, with charge controller. Suitable for lighting without any problems small house. Possibility of connecting an inverter and obtaining full 220V for connecting a TV, computer and other devices, for lighting the facade of a house, for alternative power supply for video cameras and burglar alarm, for fishermen and beekeepers, for dachas and farms remote from state energy.
The disk contains many programs, also a lot of literature, in general, let's watch the presentation.
The third version of this disk has appeared, now the disk has even more powerful content (more than 20 programs, 37 films, 22 books, one interactive, detailed description 3 wind generators, and also contains a detailed description for manufacturing solar panels). And that's not all, Disk has access to a free Internet library, a forum on alternative energy, and to my site. You will be pleased with the user-friendly interface). For those who have access to the Internet and there are no restrictions on downloading, you can purchase the files on this disc for the equivalent of $10. To do this, contact me via Email- [email protected] As soon as I receive the money, I immediately send a file and passwords to it to your address. The disk contains information about the calculations and construction of wind generators. There are a lot of photos, videos, there is a video in 3-D detailing of the generator, a lot of books, and software. Everything is fair. My website http://site/
My email yalovenkoval @i.ua
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and now, as I promised, I’m posting full description, drawings, as well as the opportunity to fully understand and manufacture a really working wind generator design based on an ASYNCHRONOUS motor. In this article I will try to describe without concealment all the nuances of building a windmill that I encountered during manufacture, and I think many of you will be able to not only repeat it, but also make it better and more powerful, the main thing is to have a great desire and figure it out.
It’s probably not worth telling that the INTERNET is littered with information about the construction of wind turbines, but a lot of it is just Flood, or this information is paid. I don’t ask for money, but I don’t refuse, any work should be ennobled, and if I helped you, and if you are not indifferent, and you have the desire and opportunity to help at least a little, you can transfer any possible amount, ( possible options via Email),and you will also have the opportunity to communicate via SKYPE or by phone.
Best regards, Valery.
WIND GENERATOR WITH AN INDUCTION ELECTRIC MOTOR from Valery.
Let's start with the fact that there are at least three ways to create a wind generator from an asynchronous motor.
FIRST- the simplest, but also the most ineffective for a wind generator, the essence is this, you need to find a working one asynchronous electric motor, preferably up to 1000 RPM, i.e. the most best option this is a motor that has 6 or 8 poles, you can read http://model.exponenta.ru/electro/0080.htm and here http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%90%D1%81%D0 %B8%D0%BD%D1%85%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%8F_%D0%BC%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%B8 %D0%BD%D0%B0 nothing has been changed in the engine. We connect the capacitors, attach a multiplier (step-up gearbox), so that the electric motor reaches its rated speed with a minimum wind that can ensure the generator operates in nominal mode. This design can be implemented in sailing wind generators, where there is a very large torque. As a rule, this option is more used to generate electricity when the generator is forced to spin up by an internal combustion engine. http://rove.biz/index.php/sdelai-sam/220-380
SECOND- the option is more complex, but also much more effective. This option is described in some detail by Nikolai http://tng-forum.ru/topic55.html, so here it is in a nutshell; It is necessary to find a working low-speed electric motor with 6 or 8 poles (up to 1000 RPM). The stator is not rewound; only the armature itself is altered. Since the prices for NEODYMIUM magnets are very high, it is necessary to somehow save on them, and in order to save on magnets and not lose power, it is imperative to place a metal sleeve under the magnets (so that the magnetic fields are closed through the metal and not through the air). Therefore, the armature must be machined to the depth of the sleeve + magnet + gap between the stator and the armature, press the sleeve in, then glue Right magnets (after making a fur coat for magnets). More best option, if it is possible to machine a completely new armature for magnets. The result is a good generator, which at rated speed produces three phases of 220V.
There are a few pitfalls here that many remain silent about - the thickness of the sleeve should be no less than the thickness of the magnet (ideally equal to approximately width magnet) In order not to doubt the thickness of the sleeve, you can easily check everything - we apply two magnets with different poles to the sleeve, while using a screwdriver with inside The sleeve should not be magnetized; if this is the case, then the thickness of the sleeve is correct. Optimal thickness magnet is calculated using the formula:
S /8+Z =M S groove height+yoke
M -Z =S /8 Z gap between stator and armature
M -Z *8=S M magnet height
And one more basic condition - it is imperative to bevel the magnetic poles, otherwise it will be quite difficult to turn the armature, there will be strong sticking, which we do not need.
The easiest way to get rid of sticking is to make a bevel on magnets, usually everyone writes on the forums that the bevel is done on an obvious magnet, but it would probably be more correct to say: - bevel on a tooth + groove (on the stator), with minimal sticking.
The ratio of coils to magnets should be 3 to 2, i.e. for every three coils there should be two poles (S and N), for example, if there are 54 slots on the stator and a coil is wound on each tooth, the generator is three-phase (in one phase we get 54/3 = 18 coils per phase), then these 54 The coil should arrive at 54/3*2=36 magnetic poles (18S and 18N). Ideally, there should always be 1.5 times fewer magnets than coils (for a three-phase generator).
And finally, THIRD option - it is the most difficult, there is a lot of turning work, but this option is the most effective. The whole difficulty is that the generator is made from *scratch*, i.e. Only the stator iron is used from the electric motor, everything else is your creative work! This option is good because you can wind the generator yourself to any output voltage you need, and thereby adjust the operation of the windmill to your needs.
In order to do good generator You need, say, at a scrap metal site, to find the stator of a low-speed motor. The one with the number of slots is 36,48,54 or 72 is suitable, and the more slots, the slower the generator will be, and the larger the diameter of the stator, the more power can be removed from it. But in this case, the weight of NEODYMIUM magnets increases, and this is already a decent expense; here is exactly the moment where you need to choose between expenses and the output power of the generator. In order not to strain your brain with all sorts of formulas for calculating the output power of the generator, it is enough to understand that the weight of the magnets is approximately the output power of the generator, for example, total weight magnets are 1 kg, then the generator power will be approximately 1 kW.
These were general aspects of making windmills with an asynchronous motor, and now a description of my windmill.
WE LEARN FROM OTHERS' MISTAKES, AND WE MAKE OUR OWN MISTAKES...
- the first axiom from Valery
After manufacturing the axial generator http://valerayalovencko.narod2.ru, I wanted to try to make the generator more powerful, and this is where the study of the theory of manufacturing generators from asynchronous motors began.
I received the main breakthrough in knowledge about generators after meeting SERGEY SAVCHENKO aka SERGEY VETROV http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru. That's when everything changed dead center. As Sergei said from his experience, for an ideal generator you need to look for the electric motor stator according to the following parameters:
Stator inner diameter number of teeth
240-330mm 54-72
Three-phase generator winding
First of all, it was necessary to find stator iron for the future gene. I visited scrap metal collection points several times and there I found a burnt-out 4 kW engine, and although the stator did not quite fit the required parameters (there are 54 slots on the stator, tooth width 5mm, slot width 3mm, internal diameter stator 130mm), nevertheless, I decided to try to make a gene from what I had.
The motor housing was cast iron, I did not intend to use it, so I cut it on both sides with a grinder, inserted a chisel and split the cast iron housing with a hammer. After that, without any problems, I pulled out the motor stator and cut off all the windings from it.
Then, with a thin chisel, I cut off the fixing brackets (I had 6 of them on the stator), measured and cut off the 40mm of iron I needed, to the size of the magnets.
I used NEODYMIUM magnets N 38 with dimensions 40*10*5.
I bought magnets via the Internet http://neodim.if.ua/, I was satisfied with the services of this site, they were sent quickly and without problems by new mail, even to my surprise they were a little lower in price. The dimensions of these magnets fit my stator well (let me remind you, three teeth or two magnets).
I decided to do the bevel of magnetic fields on iron.
To prevent the iron from falling apart, I inserted electrodes without coating into the grooves (they fit just right). Using a sharp knife, I separated each plate, and all this constantly remained on two oppositely inserted electrodes (so as not to disrupt the factory sequence of the plates).
When all the plates were disconnected, I turned the iron on the electrodes to bevel an equal tooth + groove, fixed it all with clamps, on a flat surface, using a corner, adjusted the alignment of all the plates, and welded the iron using electric welding in the place where the fixing brackets were located. I got a finished bagel with the bevel I needed.
Since the required pipe under O.D. I couldn’t find the stator, I decided to use a larger diameter pipe, welded guide segments inside this pipe and machined them to the outer diameter of the stator I needed.
A drawing was drawn
according to which my godfather VITALY ZAVGORODNY, fulfilling all my turning requests, turned the body, and then all the other parts of the generator. Here on a separate line:-
HUGE THANK YOU , since at least 50% of the generator is the merit of the godfather.
The bearing assembly was taken ready-made - this is the front hub of a VAZ car.
I tried to make the entire structure as compact as possible, thereby reducing weight without damaging the generator. A load-bearing plane was made to which all the load-bearing elements of the structure are attached.
The anchor was also made from a pipe of only a smaller diameter; the anchor is also an element for fastening the swings of the blades. I increased the thickness of the armature, exactly the place where the magnets are glued in, to reliably close the magnetic fields. To do this, three thick washers turned from metal were pressed into the inside of the sleeve and welded (since I did not have a whole piece of such a metal blank). Three holes were milled on the sleeve for the swing of the blades with a diameter of 35 mm at an angle of 120 degrees. Sergey Vetrov helped me with this http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, he also milled the grooves in the cups for the swing of the blades, and welded these cups to the armature sleeve.
The armature axis is also from the front hub of a VAZ, only the ears on it were cut off on a lathe ball joints. The axle is pressed into the armature sleeve and bolted.
36 magnets were glued to the anchor. Before pasting, the anchor was drawn out on a machine, but since it was not possible to draw it into 36 parts, it was necessary to draw it into 12 parts, i.e. There were three magnets in one sector.
First, all the magnets were glued, say pole S,
and then, without any problems, all the magnets with the N pole were glued between them (every other).
I used two-component glue, squeezed it out drop by drop directly onto the magnet S and mixed it directly on the magnet, and when gluing the N poles, I mixed the glue directly on the armature between the magnets.
Before winding the stator, you need to decide which wire to wind and how many turns to wind. To do this, we wind at least three coils different wire, we assemble the entire structure and test it at constant speeds. I tested on a lathe at 400 RPM. At the same time, we measure voltage and current, both at idle (idle) and with load. We record all the data, decide what voltage we need the generator for, and wind what we need.
The current in the circuit will not change, but the voltage must be multiplied by the number of coils in the phase, and then by a factor of 1.73 - this is for variable, and for constant, the result obtained must be multiplied by a factor of 1.4. At the same time (for example my genes), we have: 2*18*1.73*1.4=87.2V constant at 400 RPM. Since the dependence on revolutions is linear, then at 200 RPM we get 44V constant, minus losses on the wires, and we have an excellent result for charging two or three batteries.
THE MORE PRACTICE, THE MORE QUESTIONS IN THE THEORY.
-second axiom from Valery.
And so, having decided on the number of turns and the thickness of the wire, we wind all the coils. For winding, I made a simple device; I wound the coils on a homemade machine. http://youtu.be/8jmUUkRW11k I bought the wire in Kharkov, at the company LLC * KHARELEKTROMET *.
Several jigs for forming and laying coils were also made, as well as insulating material(electric cardboard).
Then we place all the coils in the stator slots,
solder correctly for three-phase generator– the beginning of the first reel with the end of the fourth, the beginning of the fourth with the end of the seventh, the beginning of the seventh with the end of the tenth, etc. We solder the second and third phases in the same way.
Then we wrap the windings with keeper tape, I didn’t have it, I fastened the windings with regular thick thread.
We saturate all the windings with varnish (I used regular parquet), and bake the whole pancake. I baked in an old gas oven for two hours, at a temperature of more than 100 degrees (the sensor did not work). The result is a pretty good stator impregnated with varnish.
All that remains is to make a protective boot on the front of the genes, paint all the elements and assemble the structure into one unit, and do not forget to lubricate the bearings.
The very first tests, running the generator on a lathe, the result on video
From the very beginning, I planned to make some kind of simple rotary unit for the blades of a variable pitch propeller (variable pitch propeller). The idea of the CVS was suggested by Sergei Vetrov. Three thrust cups were made (in which Sergei milled an oblique groove),
three rotary axes with flanges are machined. To make it easy to set the wedge angle of the blade, three more cups were made into which the blades were glued. The glass on the blade has a fungus that is pressed against the second flange and fixes any jamming angle of the blade.
The support bearing on the swing axis was taken from the king pin of a *VOLGA* car, and the springs were taken from the valve mechanism of an unknown car.
The principle of operation of the rotary propeller is very simple - as the rotation speed increases, the blade, under the influence of centrifugal force, begins to move along the groove, and at the same time scrolls to the vane position. This ensures stable speed in any gust of wind. All rubbing parts are lubricated, the axis inside the glass is fixed with a corkscrew bolt. This entire device is covered with a boot (the boot fits perfectly from the steering rack of the *TAVRIA* car)
When the entire mechanism is assembled,
it is necessary to adjust the equal forces on the springs, the easiest way is to use scales. Using the nut on the swing axis, we adjust the spring force, setting the same lift-off moment on all swings of the blades. We set the lift-off weight experimentally, it all depends on the weight of the blade and the rotation speed. We close the CVS mechanism with a pre-machined cap. The protective cap was poured with epoxy + wood dust in a suitable form, followed by turning on a lathe. On the generator I attached a contact block, on which you can easily switch the connections of the windings, and a three-phase bridge from which two wires already go down to the ground.
The rotary unit is made in the same way as in the previous design, i.e. on the mast there are two bearings 206 mounted on an axle with a hole,
and a sleeve with welded generator mounting elements is pressed onto the bearings.
To attach the generator to the mast, I used parts from a Buryak combine. The tail is made of PCB and fixed coaxially with the generator. For reliable protection from hurricane winds, the generator was mounted on a shock absorber.
The entire structure is durable and compact,
Now I have to slightly alter the mast and make a controller.
I’m thinking of describing everything in detail closer to winter, since it’s already summer, and this is a time of work and rest, and there’s not enough money and time for everything.
To be continued…
Well, as promised, I decided to finish the article, I’m still not entirely sure how It’s hard for me to succeed, but I’ll try.
I'll start with the fact that I modified the mast a little. Now I added another flange. I also did another series of stretches. The height of the mast at the moment is 10 meters, although in the future I plan to raise it to 12 meters, this is the minimum height at which more uniform winds begin.
Initially, the Controller was made according to a proven scheme,
with only one difference: instead of a relay, I installed a powerful field-effect transistor, which directly turns on the ballast after the battery is fully charged. .Setting up the circuit is not complicated, you just need to set the upper and lower response thresholds.
But. then a simpler and more reliable controller was made with the ability to independently charge different batteries, and the ability to switch to 12 and 24 volt mode.
This is what it looks like inside
The performance of this controller, and at the same time the wind generator, can be viewed here
For emergency braking of a windmill, say in the event of a hurricane, the ballast is forced to be switched on via a relay. The optimal generator load during braking should be 50 percent of the generator efficiency. More in clear language, The load resistance must be equal to the generator resistance, only in this case the generator is effectively braked.
Made plastic blades with a diameter of 2.6 meters sergeyvetrov here is his website http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, for which I thank him very much.
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It was decided to convert an asynchronous motor as a generator for a windmill. This modification is very simple and affordable, so homemade structures In wind generators you can often see generators made from asynchronous motors.
The modification consists of cutting the rotor under the magnets, then the magnets are usually glued to the rotor according to a template and filled with epoxy resin so that they do not fly off. It is also common to rewind the stator with a thicker wire to reduce too much voltage and increase the current. But I didn’t want to rewind this motor and it was decided to leave everything as is, just convert the rotor to magnets. A three-phase asynchronous motor with a power of 1.32 kW was found as a donor. Below is a photo of this electric motor.
> The electric motor rotor was machined on a lathe to the thickness of the magnets. This rotor does not use a metal sleeve, which is usually machined and placed on the rotor under the magnets. The sleeve is needed to enhance magnetic induction; through it, the magnets close their fields, feeding each other from below, and the magnetic field does not dissipate, but goes into the stator. This design uses fairly strong magnets measuring 7.6*6mm in the amount of 160 pieces, which will provide a good EMF even without a sleeve.
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> First, before gluing the magnets, the rotor was marked into four poles, and the magnets were placed at a bevel. The motor was four-pole and since the stator did not rewound, there should also be four magnetic poles on the rotor. Each magnetic pole alternates, one pole is conventionally “north”, the second pole is “south”. The magnetic poles are made at intervals, so the magnets are grouped closer together at the poles. After being placed on the rotor, the magnets were wrapped with tape for fixation and filled with epoxy resin.
After assembly, the rotor felt sticking, and when the shaft rotated, sticking was felt. It was decided to remake the rotor. The magnets were knocked together with epoxy and placed again, but now they are more or less evenly placed throughout the rotor, below is a photo of the rotor with magnets before being filled with epoxy. After filling, the sticking decreased somewhat and it was noticed that the voltage dropped slightly when the generator rotated at the same speed and the current increased slightly.
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After assembling the finished generator, it was decided to twist it with a drill and connect something to it as a load. A 220 volt 60 watt light bulb was connected, at 800-1000 rpm it burned at full intensity. Also, to test what the generator was capable of, a 1 kW lamp was connected; it burned at full intensity and the drill was not strong enough to turn the generator.
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At idle, at maximum drill speed of 2800 rpm, the generator voltage was more than 400 volts. At approximately 800 rpm the voltage is 160 volts. We also tried connecting a 500-watt boiler, after a minute of twisting the water in the glass became hot. These are the tests that the generator, which was made from an asynchronous motor, passed.
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Afterwards, a stand with a rotating axis was welded for the generator to mount the generator and tail. The design is made according to a scheme where the wind head is moved away from the wind by folding the tail, so the generator is offset from the center of the axis, and the pin behind is the pin on which the tail is placed.
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Here is a photo of the finished wind generator. The wind generator was installed on a nine-meter mast. When the wind was strong, the generator produced an idle voltage of up to 80 volts. They tried connecting a two-kilowatt tenn to it, but after a while the tenn became warm, which means the wind generator still has some power.
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Then a controller for the wind generator was assembled and the battery was connected through it for charging. The charging current was quite good, the battery quickly began to make noise, as if it were being charged from a charger.
So far, unfortunately, there are no detailed data on the power of the wind generator, as the user posted his wind generator here
