Compatibility of vegetable plants when planting. What grows with what? Compatibility of plants in the garden. Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?
Spring comes, the sun warms the earth, and it’s a busy time for the gardener. Planning is very important these days. usable area of your plot and its distribution under beds occupied by various crops. Today we will try to optimize your plantings together by talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Some plants, as it turns out, are friends, help each other and protect from various pests, while others, on the contrary, cause mutual inhibition of growth and even death. But we are interested, first of all, in getting an excellent harvest. This means that the compatibility of vegetables in garden beds is a very important and relevant issue.
Is spring site planning necessary?
Indeed, why re-draw your garden every year if you can build and plant cucumbers on one, tomatoes on another, and so on, once and for all? This is convenient, but somewhat irrational. Each plant requires its own set of microelements, and it turns out that a garden bed, used for many years for planting the same crop, is oversaturated with unclaimed elements. Or, on the contrary, she is devastated by the most important things to her. Therefore, crop rotation is necessary. However, on small area sometimes it is difficult to ensure a full replacement; mixed plantings are forced to be used, and therefore for proper organization They need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds.
What kind of beds can there be?
We are used to our land being divided into neat rectangles, each of which grows one crop. However, there are a lot of options, and in order for your garden to be as productive as possible, you need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. These can be narrow beds according to Mittlider, which require the introduction of large amounts of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as high and multi-tiered beds. The latter are quite difficult to arrange, but they are ideally suited for growing several crops. In this case, you should also be concerned about the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in the same bed, because the close proximity of plants allows them to influence each other.
Compacted beds
Sowing several crops in one bed allows you to significantly save space and still get good results. At the same time, we must remember: maintaining the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in one garden bed is a little easier than planting several at the same time. fruit crops. Here it is already necessary to take into account the difference in growing seasons. However, let’s return to the bright flower and fruit beds. Why do they use this technique, is it just for beauty? It turns out not. For example, marigolds planted near tomatoes perfectly protect the bushes from various pests. Other flowers serve as tasty traps for insects. Plant nasturtiums around the garden - all the aphids will concentrate on it, not paying attention to the garden vegetables.
and fragrant herbs
And the greenery in the beds has long been proven, they do not compete, do not interfere with each other, but at the same time you significantly save space and get a pleasant variety for your table. Herbs planted next to the fruit bed will give the vegetables a refined taste and will protect them from insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans, cabbage pests really don’t like thyme, and aphids are afraid of onions and garlic. Oregano, like marigolds, is a reliable protection for everything fruit plot from uninvited guests.
Every gardener, even if he does not have professional knowledge, should have an idea of the compatibility of vegetables and herbs in the garden beds. This doesn't require much. So, fast-growing lettuce, radishes and other spring vegetables and greens can be planted between pumpkins and melons. By the time the powerful stems of the pumpkin grow, the radish crop will already be harvested. If you plan to plant shade-loving greens such as spinach, choose tall plants that will reliable protection. For example, it could be corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn; the plants do not compete with each other.
We discussed a little general questions, will now go directly to the views garden plants. We will look at the compatibility of different vegetables in the garden beds. How to plant this or that species, its proximity to what will bring it more benefit than harm, and much more.
Favorite peas: what to plant next to them
This is a plant that gardeners do not like because of its creeping nature. However, it is worth considering the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds - and the disadvantage turns into an advantage. The fact is that it gets along well with corn, and its powerful trunks will be an excellent support. This way, you will harvest two crops from one bed and save yourself the trouble of tying up tender peas. But you can go even further and unify the garden bed by planting beans or carrots, lettuce, radishes, parsnips or turnips around its perimeter.
What else is pea compatible with? It can be planted among cucumbers; such proximity will benefit both crops. Eggplants and melons love peas, in addition, if you have potatoes growing in your garden, be sure to scatter peas throughout the planting; their roots will enrich the soil with the necessary microelements. But onions and garlic need to be planted away from peas; such proximity is completely useless.
Beauty Carrot
We continue to consider the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Leading agrotechnical companies give advice to gardeners, recommending planting carrots along the edge of a bed with tomatoes and peas. Pairs very well with various herbs. This is sage and rosemary. Therefore, you can make prefabricated beds with fragrant leafy greens and plant them with carrots. Or vice versa. But dill and parsley need to be moved away from carrots; such proximity leads to a deterioration in the growth and development of the root crop.
Green onion
This is the first spring source of vitamins, which is loved and grown on every garden plot. However, today we are talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants with which onions are “friends” is quite large. These are almost all the most important garden crops: beets and bell pepper, tomatoes and carrots, lettuce and broccoli. Onions combine very well with spinach, potatoes and cabbage. However, to make your planting enjoyable, avoid its proximity to beans, sage and peas.
bell pepper
A capricious crop that does not grow as well in our climate zone as in more southern regions. However, this can be slightly improved if you choose the right neighbors. First of all, you need to remember that it cannot be planted in the same bed with beans. But the proximity to tomatoes, on the contrary, is tolerated very well. Do not forget to plant greens and fragrant herbs to make full use of the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. About ten different herbs can grow in a garden at the same time. Basil and coriander, onions and spinach go well with peppers.
Lettuce, a precious source of vitamins
Another plant that eloquently shows the compatibility of vegetables; you can count a dozen fruit crops, which will only grow even more magnificent from such proximity. These are asparagus and beets, sunflowers and tomatoes. Experienced gardeners recommend planting lettuce along with white and Brussels sprouts, carrots and corn, and cucumbers. Considering that lettuce grows in a short, curly carpet, it helps conserve moisture by preventing the liquid from evaporating as quickly. Cucumbers love this kind of neighborhood very much.
There are many ways to plant different plants in one bed. If this is a regular bed on a plane, and not a multi-tiered structure, then, in addition to interspecific competition, you need to take into account the size of the plants. The central part of the bed can be occupied by sunflowers or tall tomatoes, cucumbers, then onions and peas, and eggplants can be placed. Or plant peas over the corn and plant lettuce around it. All these plants complement each other well.
Potato
Often this particular crop occupies a significant part of the garden, which means you need to carefully consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Photo garden plots professional gardeners very often demonstrate classic combination potatoes and legumes. Indeed, beans and peas grow well in potato plantings, bringing benefits primarily by enriching the soil. Although the legume harvest will also not be superfluous. Potatoes go well with white cabbage and broccoli, corn and eggplant, garlic, lettuce and onions.
The Friendliest Neighbor - Eggplant
Indeed, its compatibility with other vegetables in the garden is simply fantastic. He has no enemies, he complements almost any culture well. However, if we talk about the health and quality of growth of the eggplant itself, experts advise planting it next to potatoes and legumes, in particular beans and peas. Leafy vegetables are excellent neighbors for eggplants. Experienced gardeners recommend planting basil, lettuce, and spinach next to blueberries.
This begs the question: “In what order should I plant vegetables to make the garden bed as efficient as possible?” We propose a scheme that is used by German farmers. They make a very wide bed for planting root crops, about 1 meter. In this case, the potatoes are located in the center ( early varieties can be planted in two rows, and later ones in one). On one side, eggplant is planted in a row, and on the other, lettuce, kohlrabi and cauliflower. All these vegetables can be alternated in one row. Two rows of spinach are sown along the edge of the bed, and the distance between them and the rest of the crops is sown leaf lettuce and radishes.
It will pass as the crops mature. The green umbrella of lettuce appears first; it shades other, slow-growing crops and saves them from the scorching sun. Lettuce ripens first, then spinach, then it’s the radish’s turn. After about a month, it’s time for lettuce and cauliflower. Thus, the bed gradually becomes empty, leaving room for the growth and development of eggplants and potatoes. Now it’s clear how to use the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. It will tell you how to plant correctly personal experience, and for the first time use the ready-made scheme.
Peanuts - exotic in our beds
Indeed, this crop is very rarely grown in the garden, but in vain. After all, agricultural technology is no more complicated than growing cucumbers, and you get a valuable and nutritious product. The compatibility of peanuts in the garden with vegetables is due to their high nutrient requirements. It gets along well with cucumbers, which also love high, warm and fertilized beds. In addition, any legumes can be planted with it.
Corn
A useful culture that is often undeservedly forgotten. However, it can serve as a natural support for climbing cucumbers; in addition, aphids do not like corn, which means your cucumbers will be under natural protection. Climbing legumes are also perfectly compatible with corn and can be planted around the entire perimeter of the bed. These are beans and peas. She gets along well with melons and potatoes, zucchini and sunflowers. But it’s better to plant tomatoes further away.
Tomatoes
A bed of tomatoes is not so conducive to the neighborhood, since voluminous bushes tend to take over all the free space. But you can use different ways planting, for example, build a high mound in the center of the bed, on which to plant asparagus and basil, dill, lettuce, onions, parsley, spinach and thyme. Tomatoes love the proximity of legumes, so beans can be planted between the rows. Great option There will be carrots and melon for planting in the nearest garden bed. But cabbage and corn should occupy another part of the garden.
Cabbage
As you already know, there are a lot of varieties of this plant, and every garden grows at least cabbage and cauliflower. It would seem that they can easily be planted in one bed, since you will remove the colored one much earlier than its neighbor ripens. But in fact, they do not tolerate each other well, so when planning a common garden bed, it is better to give preference to beans and celery, and cucumbers. Aromatic herbs also get along well with cabbage; they help repel insects. These are sage and spinach, thyme, dill, onions. If the planting of white cabbage is not done too thickly, then you can grow enough greenery in the inter-rows, as well as radishes.
Cauliflower
It does not grow well next to its closest relative, but it perfectly complements beds with beans and beets, celery and cucumbers, sage and thyme. Doesn't like tomatoes or strawberries. Broccoli goes well with all of the listed plants, but does not tolerate cauliflower at all, so you will have to create several beds for different types of cabbage. Brussels sprouts are one of the most tolerant sprouts; they combine better with other species in garden beds. The only enemy is tomatoes, so tomatoes and cruciferous vegetables cannot be planted side by side under any circumstances. But dill and lettuce - please, you can add radishes and sage, spinach and turnips to the garden.
cucumbers
When planting this crop, make sure that there are no potatoes, melons or aromatic herbs nearby; it is better to plant all the greens along with cabbage. Cucumber loves high warm bed, on which peas and beans, corn and lettuce, radishes will grow well together with it. As with the previous example of a universal bed, central strip we allocate for corn. It will become a support for cucumbers, beans and peas, which can be sown not only mixed, but also together, in one hole. The edge of the bed can be lined with lettuce and radishes, which will be harvested fairly quickly.
How to combine incompatible things
This question is especially relevant if you have a greenhouse. All vegetables love comfortable conditions, but a large greenhouse should not be empty, and it is occupied by a variety of fruit plants. To separate poorly compatible plant species, film canopies are used to divide the greenhouse into certain sections. This helps create a kind of microclimate.
To summarize all that has been said, I would like to note that planning mixed beds greatly helps save space and significantly improves the quality of the harvest. Soil resources are used more evenly, and the plants themselves serve as natural protection for each other from diseases and pests. It should be taken into account that the planting scheme can be changed to suit the needs of your garden; we have given only general templates. But be sure to observe the compatibility of vegetables. This simple rule always gives excellent results and does not require any additional costs or investments. From one garden bed experienced gardeners remove 11-15 kg of a variety of vegetables. Correct location growing plants in the garden also helps to save resources, since less water and fertilizers are required. That, perhaps, is all about what the compatibility of vegetables in the beds is. A list of plants that are “friends” and “not friends” with each other is given at the beginning of our review in the form of a table. Use it - and good harvest guaranteed for you!
There are plant species that get along well with each other and certain species that slow down the growth of their neighbors and grow slowly themselves. In general, some plants love each other and some hate each other.
Combined plantings can be quite complicated and often even too complicated, but with experience you will begin to understand better and the process will go faster. The main thing is not to get carried away with excessive planning, otherwise the pleasure of planting will wane.
Nobody says that you can’t grow certain plants in the same garden, the main thing is not to plant them next to each other. Below is a table with which you can see which plants get along well with each other and which do not.
Combined plantings are not like that simple task. There are criteria such as the age of the plants, their number in the bed, and the distance between plants. With the right approach, you can figure out for yourself what is better or worse for certain species.
Vegetable compatibility table.
| Plant | Good neighbors | Bad neighbors |
| Asparagus | Tomatoes, parsley, basil | |
| Beans | Potatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, cabbage, eggplant | Onion, garlic, gladius, chives |
| Bush beans | Potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries, celery | Onion |
| Climbing beans | Corn, sunflower | Onions, beets, kohlrabi, cabbage |
| Beet | Onion, kohlrabi | Beans |
| Cabbage (cauliflower, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi) | Aromatic plants, potatoes, celery, dill, hyssop, chamomile, sage, mint, rosemary, beets, onions | Strawberries, tomatoes, climbing beans |
| Carrot | Peas, lettuce, chives, leeks, onions, rosemary, sage, tomatoes | Dill |
| Celery | Leeks, tomatoes, bush beans, cauliflower, cabbage | |
| Chives | Carrots, tomatoes | Peas, beans |
| Corn | Potatoes, peas, beans, cucumbers, melon, pumpkin, zucchini | Tomatoes |
| cucumbers | Beans, corn, peas, radishes, sunflowers, lettuce | Potatoes, aromatic herbs |
| Eggplant | Beans, potatoes, spinach | |
| Leek | Onions, celery, carrots | |
| Salad | Carrots and radishes, strawberries, cucumbers, onions | |
| Melon | Corn, nasturtiums, radishes | |
| Onion | Beets, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, leeks, chamomile, peppers | Peas, beans |
| Parsley | Tomatoes, asparagus | |
| Peas | Carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn | Onions, garlic, gladiolus, potatoes, chives |
| Potato | Beans, corn, cabbage, marigolds, eggplants (as bait for the Colorado potato beetle) | Pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, sunflowers, tomatoes, raspberries |
| Pepper | Onion | |
| Pumpkin | Corn | |
| Radish | Peas, nasturtiums, lettuce, melon, cucumbers | Hyssop |
| Spinach | Strawberry, eggplant | |
| Zucchini | Nasturtiums, corn | Potato |
| Strawberry | Bush beans, spinach, borage, lettuce (on the border), onion | Cabbage |
| Sunflower | cucumbers | Potato |
| Tomato | Chives, onions, parsley, asparagus, marigolds, nasturtiums, carrots | Corn, kohlrabi |
| Turnip | peas |
List of herbs, their properties and plants that go well with them.
| Plant | Properties |
| Basil | Companion plant for tomatoes; actively dislikes rue; improves growth and taste; repels flies and mosquitoes |
| Borage | Companion plant for tomatoes, zucchini and strawberries; repels tomato worms; improves growth and taste |
| Caraway | Plant everywhere; loosens the soil |
| Catnip | Plant along the edge; repels earthen fleas |
| Chamomile | Companion plant for cabbage and onions; improves growth and taste |
| Chives | Companion plant for carrots; improves growth and taste |
| Dill | Companion plant for cabbage; does not like carrots, promotes the growth and health of cabbage |
| Fennel | It is better not to plant in the garden, most plants do not like being next to it |
| Flax | Companion plant for carrots and potatoes; repels potato beetles; improves growth and taste |
| Garlic | Plant next to roses and raspberries, repels beetles, promotes growth and health |
| Horseradish | Plant in the corners of a potato field to repel potato bugs |
| Hyssop | Repels cabbages; companion plant for cabbage and grapes. Do not plant next to radishes |
| Melissa | It is better to plant throughout the garden |
| Lovage | Promotes plant growth, improves taste |
| Marigold | Excellent at repelling pests, can be planted throughout the garden |
| Marjoram | Improves taste, can be planted anywhere |
| Mint | Companion plant for tomatoes and cabbage; Promotes healthy growth, improves taste, repels cabbages |
| Nasturtium | Companion plant for radishes, cabbage and pumpkin; plant under fruit trees; improves growth and taste |
| Peppermint | Planting among cabbage repels pest butterflies |
| Petunia | Protects beans |
| Calendula | Companion plant for tomatoes, but can be planted throughout the garden, repels pests |
| Purslane | Repels pests |
| Rosemary | Companion plant for cabbage, beans, carrots and sage; repels pests |
| Sage | Plant with rosemary, cabbage and carrots, keep away from cucumbers; scares away cabbages |
| Sagebrush | Plant throughout the garden as a companion plant for cabbage; improves taste and promotes growth; scares away cabbages |
| Garden savory | Plant with beans and onions; improves taste and promotes growth |
| Tansy | Plant under fruit trees; companion plant for roses and raspberries; repels flying insects and ants |
| Tarragon | Useful anywhere in the garden |
| Thyme | Repels cabbage caterpillars; plant throughout the garden |
| Valerian | Useful anywhere in the garden |
| Yarrow | Plant along borders, paths and next to aromatic herbs; increases essential oil production |
Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.
Not in nature large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest - not only different breeds trees, but also shrubs, grasses, mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.
Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow large areas, and in adjacent rows or holes.
Better at the border
It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is a shady and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.
You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large quantities they oppress neighbors, and in moderate cases they are helpers. In general, you will need creativity and your observations.
Culture compatibility
First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. tall plants tomatoes will protect the greens from direct rays of the sun and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.
Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.
When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.
Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.
Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.
Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.
If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your plot of land.
Compaction of crops and joint plantings I have been using it in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.
Cauliflower in marigolds.
"Communal" for celery
I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between the rows. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.
At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon upper leaves the cabbages closed and my celery ended up in lower tier, in dense shade.
I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.
I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes; we had to be content with only greenery.
Celery planted together with early cabbage is another matter! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.
Who is friends with whom?
Everyone knows that onions and carrots - best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.
Sweet couple.
I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. The bed of early radishes can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots sprout slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radishes. This way I get a double harvest from one bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.
I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.
Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”
Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?
Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They highlight in environment different substances that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, they feel good next to early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes.
Potatoes and cabbage.
Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.
There is another big plus mixed plantings. This is a flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.
Eggplants and marigolds.
I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.
I place companion plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to diseases and even affect taste qualities fruits With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.
Romance of onions and melons
I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.
At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the bed with onions, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.
Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/
Experienced gardeners and gardeners have noticed that some vegetables grow well together, while some, on the contrary, interfere with each other's growth. Vegetables, herbs, and flowers help each other grow by improving the soil or keeping pests away from each other. Smart landing will provide you with a large harvest...
Choice of garden neighbors.
Choosing garden neighbors is the true art of garden planning. Each vegetable is planted in the garden not alone, but in the vicinity of another companion plant. These tactics help minimize the harmful effects of insects and diseases.
Garden neighbor rules. When choosing garden neighbors, pay attention to the families of vegetables. Vegetables from the cabbage family, for example, do well planted next to beets and green leafy crops. Some herbs will help repel pests from cabbage. Planted in the same bed as cabbage, mint will improve its taste.
Vegetables can experience not only sympathy, but also antipathy towards each other: some vegetables retard growth and reduce each other's yield.
What vegetables grow well in one bed?
In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop with another, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in garden beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.
Flowers next to vegetables.
Good advice: Plant a few marigolds in the tomato bed to repel pests. You can even decorate the entire perimeter of the garden with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.
Marigolds in the garden
Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium and will not pay attention to nearby vegetables.
Vegetables and herbs.
Planting herbs nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose barrier against most insect pests.
When deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes and other fast-growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radishes will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Loving shadow green leafy vegetables such as spinach and chard are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn because their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.
Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.
COMPATIBILITY OF VEGETABLES
Neighbors for carrots.
The optimal neighborhood for carrots will be:
rosemary;
tomatoes.
And here is a negative neighborhood for carrots:
parsley.
Pepper grows well next to:
basil;
coriander;
spinach;
tomatoes.
Do not plant peppers near beans.
Potatoes will bring a good harvest if planted next to:
broccoli;
cabbage;
corn;
eggplants;
garlic;
radish.
You can’t plant potatoes if they grow nearby:
sunflowers;
basil;
cucumbers;
carrots;
celery;
parsley;
spinach;
thyme;
Do not place tomato beds and any types of cabbage, potatoes and corn next to each other.
Neighbors for asparagus.
An excellent neighborhood for asparagus would be:
parsley;
tomatoes.
What should you not plant asparagus with?
Fortunately, there are no plants that negatively affect the growth of asparagus.
Optimal neighborhood for beans:
broccoli;
corn;
celery;
cauliflower;
eggplant;
potato;
strawberry;
tomatoes.
Undesirable neighborhood for beans:
sunflowers;
Beets will give a greater yield next to:
broccoli;
cauliflower;
Undesirable neighbors in the beet bed:
Broccoli and neighbors in the garden.
celery;
potato;
Unwanted neighbors for broccoli:
cauliflower;
green beans;
tomatoes.
Brussels sprouts bed neighbors:
Brussels sprouts have one unwanted neighbor - tomatoes.
Neighbors for cabbage.
What can I plant cabbage next to?
celery;
potato;
Undesirable neighbors in the cabbage bed:
broccoli;
cauliflower;
strawberry;
tomatoes.
cauliflower and the neighborhood in the garden
Cauliflower and its neighbors:
celery;
Bad neighbors for cauliflower:
broccoli;
strawberry;
tomatoes.
celery's neighbors in the garden
Celery grows best with:
broccoli;
cabbage;
cauliflower;
leeks;
spinach;
broccoli;
corn;
cabbage;
cauliflower;
sunflowers;
Cucumbers should not be planted next to herbs, melons and potatoes.
Corn and its neighborhood.
Optimal neighbors:
potato;
sunflowers.
But you can’t plant corn next to tomato beds!
They feel great next to:
basil;
potatoes;
spinach.
What should I plant onions next to?
The best neighborhood for onions will be:
tomatoes;
broccoli;
potato;
Worst:
Peas and their neighbors in the garden.
Peas feel great next to:
carrots;
corn;
cucumbers;
eggplants;
parsnip;
potatoes;
spinach;
You cannot plant peas near beds with onions and garlic.
Useful weeds in the garden.
Sometimes plants can only be beneficial to each other at a certain stage of growth. This is true for some weeds as well. How can weeds in the garden be useful? Some weeds pull nutrients from deeper layers of soil and bring them to the surface. As weeds die and decompose, nutrients become available at the soil surface for shallow-rooted vegetables. This is why some vegetables grow very well next to nettles.
If you liked this material, then we offer you a selection of the most the best materials our site according to our readers. You can find a selection - TOP about existing eco-villages, family estates, their history of creation and everything about eco-houses where it is most convenient for youAfter plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.
To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).
After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.
After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.
After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.
After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.
After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, next year- pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, then tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.
The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:
for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;
For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);
For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;
For onions on turnips - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;
For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;
For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);
For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;
For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;
For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;
For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;
Plant compatibility
Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.
Compatible plants :
The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.
Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Relationships of mutual assistance have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes are isolated biologically active substances stimulating the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.
Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during the period of fruit formation by spruce and pine needles- significantly improves the taste of strawberries;
White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is undesirable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.
Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and different types salad, Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. Colorado potato beetle Marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy repel. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.
Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery
Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and the onion - a carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter beds).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.
Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.
Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.
Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.
Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevines. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.
The nut has no compatible crops;
Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;
Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;
Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;
Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.
Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;
Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage
Currants are not damaged by bud mites if onions are planted between the bushes and left in the ground for the winter.
Soybean is friendly with all crops.
Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.
Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.
Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.
If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.
If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.
Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.
Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.
The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;
Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.
Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold in carnations.
Apple - raspberry
Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.
Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.
Incompatible plants:
Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;
Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;
Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;
Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;
The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;
Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.
Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;
Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;
Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage from the gooseberry moth);
Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.
Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;
Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;
Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;
Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.
Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;
Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.
Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;
The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;
Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;
Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its fumes cultivated plants(apple tree, corn);
Pumpkin - potatoes;
Beans - suppressed by shallots;
Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.
Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;
