Connecting profiled timber in corners without leaving any residue. Cutting in a warm corner. Double-sided groove lock

There are several in various ways connections of profiled timber. One of the most complex and at the same time reliable is the “warm corner” corner connection of profiled timber. Despite the difficulties associated with it, experts characterize the “warm corner” as an effective and heat-intensive connection, and that is why it is most common in the construction of wooden houses.

The following technologies for creating corner joints are known:

  1. "In the paw."
  2. "Warm Corner"
  3. "Butt."
  4. “Into the Cup” and others.

The “warm corner” corner connection has several varieties, namely:

  • Connection with main tenon.
  • Keyed connection.
  • "Dovetail".

In the article we will talk about the warm corner connection, as the most optimal technology in our opinion. The trick of such a connection is hidden in the fact that a vertical tenon is cut out in one of the joining beams, and a groove is made in the other to the size of the tenon. During the assembly process they interlock with each other. Thanks to this, a lock with a hidden spike is formed at the junction.

The connection is made in the following order:

First, markings for trimming are applied to the beam using a square, and the beam is cut. Using a tape measure, the required length is measured and a horizontal line is drawn on the upper side of the beam, from which verticals are drawn on the sides. Next, using a square or a pre-made stencil, the position of the tenon is drawn.


Now you can cut it out.


The groove is marked and cut in the same way. In the very simple version tongue and groove have rectangular shape. It is important that the connection is tight and there should be no gaps in it. And the insulation inserted into the groove will make the structure more airtight.


After completing the assembly of the crown, the beams are secured with a dowel. When laying the next crowns, the operations are performed in a similar order, but it is important that in each subsequent crown the tenon and groove alternate in a checkerboard pattern. This will make the frame more durable.


The corner connection of profiled timber “warm corner” has a number of advantages that make it so popular:

  1. This design does not require additional fastening, which greatly simplifies the technology and makes it more economical.
  2. The ideal shape of the source material allows the assembly to be monolithic and reliable.
  3. There are no gaps in the design through which cold can enter the house.
  4. The ends of the beams do not protrude outward, which facilitates subsequent finishing of the house.

Of course, making such corner connections is associated with certain difficulties, since it can only be done manually. But its use in construction can significantly improve the quality of the finished log house.

Connecting timber into a so-called “warm corner” is the basis of the entire assembly technology timber houses. Understanding of technology, accuracy of markings and reliable tool V strong hands- the key to a good work result.

Tool

Let's start the description of this technology with a list of tools that will be needed in the work. The basic set includes the following:

1. Roulette. A 7-meter length is enough, because the timber is supplied in 6-meter lengths.

2. Construction pencil.

3. Metal square 25-30cm.

4. Chainsaw. In our opinion, it is more convenient and mobile on construction site work with a gasoline saw. When working with an electric saw, you always have to keep an eye on the cord, which distracts your attention a little and limits your actions.

Addition: All our teams use a trusted model in their work chain saw Stihl MS 180. The model is very popular, so in order not to overpay or purchase fakes, it is better to buy it from official dealers. If you do not buy it from an official store, check the authenticity of the saw.

6. Chisel

In addition to this set, the following will not be superfluous:

7. Hand circular saw

8. Wood saw with fine teeth.

9. Template made of wooden board/plywood or metal sheet or prefabricated. Here, everyone’s ingenuity and imagination work differently, so there are a huge variety of options for executing templates. The main thing is to understand that a well-fitted template greatly facilitates and speeds up the work of marking the timber.

Theory

In our work, we are guided by this scheme for connecting timber into a “warm corner”. According to it, a groove 50 mm wide and 55 mm deep is cut in one beam, and a tenon 40 mm wide and 55 mm deep is prepared in the other. Thanks to this size, when joining the timber, we have a 5 mm seam left for laying jute/caulking.

We usually assemble a crown of beams, fasten them with wooden dowels, and then use a chisel from top to bottom to caulk the seams between the beams.

But this is not the only option. You can lay a strip of jute along one beam, and then insert another beam with a tenon into the groove. This way, the jute will fill all the seams in the corner joint.

There is also an opinion that caulking should only be done at the joint of the beams on the street side. In such cases there is no need to leave seams between the tongue and groove. For a tight fit, the groove is 40x45mm in size, and the tenon is 40x50mm in size.

Be that as it may, our company is of the opinion that the entire contour of the junction of two beams in a corner joint should be insulated.

Marking

First of all, the beams are marked for trimming. This is done using a metal square. Counted with a tape measure required length timber and with a construction pencil using a square, draw a horizontal line on the upper side of the beam. From it, vertical lines are marked along the sides of the beam. Then the coincidence of the lines is checked from below. From these lines the positions of the grooves and tenons are measured and drawn. It is more convenient to do this by attaching a pre-prepared template.

Sawing grooves and tenons

After the final marking, it’s time to take up the chain saw. But first, let’s stop and evaluate our strengths, and think about how we can make the cuts more accurately.

Unfortunately, not everyone is given the freedom to manage chain saw. Some people have to master this skill for a long time, while others get it the first time. But for some people this is simply not possible. If you are comfortable with a chain saw, and everything is fine with an eye, then there is no need to explain much. Just guide the blade with the chain along the marked lines and you're done.

The chain saw can in capable hands everything: cut out grooves and tenons, trim the ends, clean off the profiles of the timber in the corners. A typical example of professional handling of a chainsaw, which allows high-quality cutting in a “warm corner” without the use of additional tools:

The basic rules here are simple:

Guide the saw so that the blade does not follow the line, but along it. Then it will always be visible marking line, which will allow you to be sure of the accuracy of the cut.

When trimming a beam, you must first make short cuts along the lines on three sides of the beam, and then cut along them to the end.

If you are not sure, make a short cut along the line, and then cut to the end.

It’s another matter when you don’t have such confidence in your hands as in the video presented. Then better groove saw out circular saw and clean it up with a chisel/axe. As a last resort, you can first make cuts with a regular hacksaw to guide the chain, and then continue cutting along them with a chain saw.

Main errors/jambs

The most important note here is that there are no nails in the corner joint. They are not needed here under any circumstances.

For timber 150x150mm, a tenon measuring no more than 50x50mm is quite sufficient. Many shabatniks, not understanding the essence, cut thorns almost halfway through the tree. Not only is this not advisable and not rational. There is a high probability of the tenon breaking off from the main body of the timber.

The corner connection must necessarily have a small (around 0.5 cm) gap for the caulking. Seams larger size immediately signal the low qualifications of the performer.

It is written above about the tight joining of the tenon into the groove - we leave gaps, but many consider this unnecessary.

Corner finishing

A timber house has a shrinkage of 7%. Plus, timber with natural moisture has the ability to warp over time. As a result, some seams in timber joints may become wider, while others may become narrower.

After a year or two, all timber connections will have to be additionally caulked, and for additional protection from blowing and the aesthetics of the facade, they will have to be covered with corner strips.


06.08.2013

Private developers in lately When choosing materials for building a house, preference is increasingly given to wood. And this is not only a tribute to the fashion for environmentally friendly housing - it is also a genetic memory of generations of ancestors who have been building wooden houses for thousands of years.

Houses made of timber are very popular not only due to their environmental friendliness, but also to their ease of installation.

There is one more important aspect. Wood today is relatively cheap building material, in addition, it is lighter in relation to such common materials as brick or various blocks, which is why wooden house no need for a massive foundation. Therefore, choosing wood as a building material for a house is also significant savings funds. But today, due to scientific and technological progress in the construction of houses, traditional logs are increasingly being replaced by a new building material - wooden beam. In both cases, building a house involves one technological operation - the construction of a log house, but the methods of corner connections for logs and beams are somewhat different, although they have a common basis.

Main types of beam corner connections

When building a house from timber, it is very important to correctly connect the material.

Corner connection – essential element house designs. Therefore, before starting work, you need to have a clear idea not only of how to arrange it, but also what requirements are imposed on such a connection. There are two such requirements.

First, the corner must be strong. It is clear that correctly laid crowns should remain in place under their own weight. But the laid crowns, and primarily in the places of corner joints, will in any case deal with the natural deformation of the tree caused by the impact environment. Therefore, when deformed, the laid corner should in no case diverge, forming a gap. The second important requirement: the corner connection must be airtight, especially in a residential building or bathhouse.

After all, it is unlikely that the owners of such buildings will be happy with drafts in the corners. There is an unwritten rule in the construction of a log house: the probability of drafts is less than more complex type corner connection. But if we are talking about building a shed or barn, then the high tightness of the corner joints in this case can be neglected.

A jigsaw will be needed to cut grooves in the timber.

In the construction of a house made of timber, as well as a house made of logs, there are two types of corner joints: with a remainder and without a remainder. When connecting timber in the corners without leaving any residue, the corners of the house are traditionally even, with corner method connections with the rest, the ends of the crowns extend beyond the plane of the wall for some distance.

The method of joining without a residue is considered more economical, because in this case it costs less material. But with the method of connecting the angle with the remainder general design The log structure is more stable, and the corners are warmer, which is very important for a living space.

To cut a corner of a house, regardless of the chosen method and type of timber connection, you will need:

  • axe,
  • jigsaw (if you don’t have one, you can use a hacksaw, but given the amount of work on all four corners, the duration of construction of the log house will increase significantly),
  • hammer,
  • bit,
  • mallet.

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Corner connection “with remainder”

The corner connection “with the remainder” is most often made using a key groove “in the head”. Such a groove can be one-sided, two-sided or four-sided. But in all cases it is done not at the end, but at a distance of 2 or 3 cross sections from the edge of the end. The width of the groove made should correspond cross section timber.

The width of the groove must fully correspond to the cross section of the beam.

The simplest way of such fastening is in half a tree. This is a method with a one-sided groove, in which a transverse cut is made from the top side to a depth of half the thickness of the beam. The upper crown is inserted into this groove at a right angle, and so, alternately tying the stacked crowns, they cut the corner of the house from the timber. The crowns are fastened together with staples for greater strength.

When constructing a double-sided groove, cuts are made not from one, but from both sides, but to a shallower depth - a quarter of the thickness at the top and a quarter at the bottom. Folded together, the total depth of the cut will be the same - half a beam.

When making a four-sided locking groove, cuts are made on all four sides. In this case, the grooves are made longitudinally by a quarter of the thickness at the top and bottom, and transverse on the sides by a quarter of the width. Transverse grooves greatly simplify the assembly of a house made of timber, since their installation is in many ways similar to the assembly of a construction set. And since with this method of fastening, due to the transverse grooves, the timber is laid much more tightly, the strength of the entire structure is much higher than with the first two methods.

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Corner connection “no residue”

The “no-residue” connection is made using a “claw” connection. It can be made end-to-end, on dowels or on main tenons. Regardless of the type of connection chosen, fastening the beams “without remainder” implies additional fixation of the crowns laid in the corners.

The easiest way to connect timber “without any residue” is a butt joint. With it, the bars in the corner are connected with their ends facing each other and fixed with the help of studded metal plates. No other measures are taken to fix them. Despite the fact that this is the simplest way to connect timber in a corner, it is practically not used in the construction of residential buildings, since with its help it is impossible to make the corner warm and airtight.

When assembling corners using dowels, fastening is performed using special hardwood inserts. With this method, grooves are prepared in advance: in one beam - at the end, and in the other - on the side, not far from the end. In order to fasten these two beams with a liner (key), it is very important that when joining them, these grooves coincide. The installed key fixes the ends, preventing them from moving. In the direction of installation of the key, such fastening can be transverse, longitudinal or oblique. Oblique fastening is the most difficult to perform, but it allows you to achieve a tighter and more reliable connection.

The most reliable and therefore most used method of assembling the corners of a house is with the help of a root tenon. With it, a groove is made at the end of the beam, and a tenon is cut out at the end of the one being joined to it. The tenon fits into the groove from above. When connecting, it should fit tightly into the groove. But this does not mean that the groove must be strictly adjusted to the dimensions of the tenon.

In fact, the groove should be slightly larger than the tenon, because to ensure greater density, flax-jute fabric or other insulation must be placed in the groove during assembly. In addition to ensuring the required density, this significantly improves the thermal insulation of the corner. For greater reliability, the corner can be fastened with two or three tenons (and two or three grooves, respectively).

Also, for greater reliability of fastening and stability of the log house, each laid crown is additionally reinforced with a round wooden dowel with a diameter of 25-30 mm. Typically, dowels are made in length equal to 80% of the sum of the heights of the two crowns. But if we are not talking about a residential building, sometimes to speed up the assembly of a log house, it is practiced to fix 3 crowns at once with one dowel.

A distinctive feature of all tenon-to-groove fastenings is that vertical gaps must be provided between the groove and the tenon.

They will act as compensators during the shrinkage of the log house.

Most reliable way fastening the structure of the corner of the house is a connection of timber using a dovetail. It is called so because the spike at the end is not rectangular, but trapezoidal, reminiscent of a swallow’s tail. Accordingly, the groove at the end of the joined beam is also adjusted to the shape of the tenon. A tenon inserted into the groove prevents the corner of the house from moving apart when the frame shrinks, regardless of the size of the deformation of the material. In addition, it has better airtightness compared to other fastening methods. Therefore, the corner assembled using a “dovetail” rightfully received the name “warm corner”.

All types of corner joints are described in detail in GOST 30974-2002. However, these requirements are only advisory in nature. The final decision must be made by the developer himself, having carefully weighed all the pros and cons of each type and method of such connections.

Warmth and comfort to your home!

All photos from the article

For the most part, the beams in the corners are connected in the same way as logs, but there are some peculiarities. And most likely construction wooden house for a private developer this is not a daily task, so hiring a professional team is not always justified. Therefore, today there is an ideal opportunity to learn how to independently cope with such a seemingly very difficult matter. Below we will tell you how to correctly and reliably make corner joints of timber.

For some, you only need skills in using a chainsaw, for others, it is enough to have experience with an ax and a jigsaw. In any case, in the end you will get a reliable and windproof corner in a wooden house.

Main types of log corners

As already mentioned, they resemble log joints.

And in the same way they are usually divided into angles:

  • with remainder;
  • without a trace.

Each method also has several of its own pairing options. They depend on the method of forming the angle. Let's look at this in more detail below.

Advice: do not use corners to connect profiled or glued building materials, they will be visible and because of this you will have to finish the walls.

Whatever the geometric accuracy of the elements, it will be difficult to protect the timber from the wind blowing through the joints and lateral stability. In any case, such corners will have to be additionally insulated.

Advice: do not use this method for houses large area, significant costs will be required for its insulation.

  1. Dowels - they are made from. They are installed in sawn grooves, which will need to be made in advance, and they are used as an insert. Thanks to this design, the two beams are held together and do not move relative to each other.

The shape of the keys can be:

  • longitudinal;
  • transverse;
  • oblique.

The type of its fixation in the node depends on this. The oblique method is considered the best, but doing it with your own hands without certain skills is problematic;

  1. "Into the root thorn"- the most common fastening. It is formed at the ends of the beams, where a groove is made on one, and a rectangular profile on the other. There can be in the range of 1-5. It is necessary to take into account that the more complex the structure, the less strength it will have. Therefore, before making cuts, everything must be carefully calculated.
    During the installation process, insulation made from flax or jute fiber is used. Therefore, such fasteners received another name - “warm corner”. Due to the complexity of this pairing of elements and when using this method for profiled timber, the corner is not insulated.

In cottages made of laminated veneer lumber, to increase the reliability of the connection point, wooden dowels (rods) are used round section), which are driven into the end. Metal ones are usually not used, since when they dry out they become visible. In this situation, we recommend using mounting angles, which will help strengthen the structure.

  1. To lay corners from timber use:
    • cut – common name connections when using a tongue and groove;
    • dowels - rods made of wood or metal;
    • fat tails - a longitudinal protrusion at the place where the log is planted;
  1. Be sure to leave some gap in the groove during assembly, then the beam will be able to move freely during the shrinkage period, otherwise the wall may be deformed. And let it increase the time general work, ultimately the log house will not suffer from its consequences.

Installation of profiled timber in a corner

If we analyze the methods of corner connections, which are most often used in the construction of cottages from profiled timber, the winner is the option called “in a warm corner”.

It also includes conjugations:

  • "root thorn";
  • dowels;
  • "swallow tail".

Dovetail method

A special inclined groove and tenon should be cut out at the end, with special attention paid to the exact dimensions. Thanks to this, the connection will be strong and with low heat loss. The resulting lock will not damage the external or internal walls in any way.

Instructions for making a connection “in a warm corner”:

  1. Make a marking of what is best to use the stencil for;
  2. Use a saw to cut out a groove on one side and a tenon on the other;
  3. Connect the elements together;
  4. Lay insulation between them;
  5. Secure the connection with wooden dowels, or metal dowels. To increase rigidity, you can install mounting angles inside.

Tip: when installing, alternate rows with grooves and tenons, then the wall will have an aesthetic appearance, and the corner itself will be as strong as possible.

Positive design qualities:

  • reliability and airtightness due to the precise dimensions of the profiled material;
  • no nails are used, a wooden lock is sufficient, which reduces construction time and overall costs;
  • upon completion of the shrinkage processes, the angle will not be maintained;
  • there are no protruding elements on the outside, which makes it easier to carry out exterior finishing;
  • guaranteed tightness.

The coziness and comfortable living conditions of a private house, first of all, presuppose long-term heat retention, which is possible only with complete tightness, sufficient thickness of the walls of the structure and high-quality insulation. While everything is more or less clear with thermal insulation and the dimensions of the material, not everyone knows how to ensure that there are no gaps and cracks through which cold and drafts can enter the home. A warm angle, which means a tight joining of the crowns of the timber, is a technology that allows you to maintain the necessary heat as much as possible.

What is it?

A warm corner is a special method of corner connection using a tongue-and-groove system. If the parameters are correctly followed, the corner turns out to be sealed, and “cold bridges” are not observed in it. Of course, the tree is sawn in such a way that all the parts fit tightly together. The pressure of the crowns is added to this, and as a result the structure becomes more stable and reliable. Based on this, the main requirements for creating a reliable seal are as follows:

  • During construction, the strength of the structure largely depends on the total mass of wood and roofing structure. We must not forget that the operation of such a building is associated with the impact of many factors on the timber: wind, temperature changes, precipitation. Dimensional changes are also associated with shrinkage; damp wood deforms faster. This is why it is important to build a house from natural material with humidity no more than 20%;
  • The second condition affecting the quality of the warm corner is the optimal fit of all protrusions and recesses for a perfect connection.

Thanks to this timber house will keep warm even in winter period and will be protected from freezing and drafts.

In the future, the warm corner can be additionally insulated with such traditional materials, like flax, jute, wool felt and even moss. This will compensate for the volume of the timber during swelling, drying out, and will prevent rotting or mold development.

Benefits of technology

The method of such a connection as a warm corner, in fact, has a significant impact on various aspects of construction and operation, namely:

  • with high-quality assembly, the junction of the corners of the walls is so strong that you can do without inter-crown insulation;
  • a building erected using this technology is not threatened by force loads and impacts in the form of soil movement or earthquakes, since it is strengthened several times;
  • this method eliminates such unpleasant moments as corrosion, fungus, mold, and the penetration of insects into the interior;
  • significantly reduced costs for fasteners, since this fittings are irrelevant for fastenings with a remainder;
  • Pre-prepared beams with grooves and tenons cut into them allow for quick assembly.

Species

A warm corner ennobles the outer and internal view structure, since its walls are free of irregularities and unnecessary protrusions. To make a high-quality warm corner, you need to consider different methods cutting joints, which have their own characteristics, however, they have the same fastening mechanism.

The main types of joining are connecting timber with and without rest, and each of them has several options.

Styling with remainder

Such connections are called “in oblo”. It has two main advantages - high level sealing, as well as joint strength without fixation. This locking design system provides different types joints

  1. Unilateral The key groove is a transverse notch in each bar, and its width corresponds to the same parameter of the bar. It is located at the top and is most often applied to profiled wood, as it fits perfectly into its structure. The grooves are made straight and square. In some cases, it is allowed to secure the connection using dowels.
  2. More difficult is two way connection. For this, the timber is sawed from the top and bottom sides to 1/4 of the thickness. Double fixation makes the structure more durable, which completely eliminates displacement. An indispensable requirement is a smooth wood structure with no defects in the form of cracks and knots.
  3. Quadruple the connection is the most reliable in terms of sealing, but it has a more complex preparation of the beams, so it is used quite rarely.

Joints without residue

Cost-effectiveness is the main advantage of this technology, while the end parts of the timber do not protrude from the walls. However, there are also disadvantages of such a connection - it is less durable than with other joining methods.

There are several options for obtaining even corners timber house.

  • Half a Tree- this is a joining in which the beams from one and the other wall are cut down to 50% of their thickness, after which these cuts must be fixed with dowels, because such a connection is quite weak. In this case, caulking is applied later. In the paw - this is a similar method, which is distinguished by more complex work with the preparation of the material, due to which the quality of the connection is higher and more durable.
  • Connection with dowels, which are produced only from hard and durable wood. They perform the task of inserting in the grooves. In fact, they are used to fasten the beams together at the side and end. This joining promotes a tight fit and prevents any displacement. These spare parts can have any shape - oblique, longitudinal and transverse. Dovetail dowels are especially relevant. Unfortunately, it is difficult to make them yourself, because this requires a special machine.

  • The simplest is a warm corner. end-to-end, and there is no need to cut the timber. The ends of the material are fixed in a checkerboard pattern using squares, staples, clamps or metal plates with nails. Bonding occurs along the length. If damp building materials are used, it is extremely difficult to avoid deformation, therefore, as a rule, careful insulation of the gaps is required in the future. You can do the work yourself, but it is better to use dry wood.
  • The most common fastening is in the root thorn. When all the necessary cuts are precisely calculated, and there can be quite a lot of them, since up to 5 grooves and tenons are used, then this design is the most reliable and stable. Simultaneously with the connection, linen or jute insulation is placed in the grooves. This prevents blowing and no additional protection is required.

Direct and longitudinal connections also take place in practical construction, but in most cases they represent more complex shapes fastenings that require a lot of time and materials.

Direct joining is often carried out in the main tenon or involves connecting the longitudinal beam end-to-end using dowels. The oblique lock, in general, is rarely used, since it is unprofitable in all respects.

Longitudinal fastening is carried out using tongues, usually birch, and high demands are placed on them - defects such as delamination and knots are simply unacceptable, moreover, the wood fibers in these hardware should only be located parallel to the axis. Qualified craftsmen, of course, can carry out such work, but does this make sense when there are simpler and quality species warm corner.

When cutting a warm corner, you should take into account some of the subtleties of the process and the problems associated with it.

  • Since the connection technology already makes the house warm, you should not leave it in the corners large gaps for subsequent caulking. Their size should not exceed 0.5 cm.
  • You can caulk corners after several years of use. If the seams have become wider due to shrinkage of the timber, it is worth keeping in mind that sometimes they can narrow (when they swell, when humidity is high).
  • Nails and dowels are not used using technology with residue; moreover, their use is a violation of the joining rules.



 
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