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How to make a stationary jigsaw. How to make a table for a jigsaw: ideas, materials, step-by-step instructions, photos and videos. Making tooling for straight sawing with a jigsaw

The article will primarily be useful to those people who often work with wood as a hobby, without making money from it. The author presents a fairly budget-friendly project for a desktop jigsaw, which can be assembled in one day, with minimum costs for materials.

To create the machine you will need the following materials:
- Working manual jigsaw;
- Plywood;
- Self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts;
- Guides for furniture drawers;
- Two bearings;
- Compression spring;
- Spray paint;
- Self-adhesive paper.

Materials and tools are standard, available in every workshop.

Step 1. Body.
The first step is to create a body for a manual jigsaw from plywood. Here you need to think in advance where the holes for the switch and speed controller will be located.
It should look something like this:

Step 2. Tabletop.
It is better to take a thick piece of chipboard with good coverage, since the workpieces being processed will rub against it during operation of the machine.

A hole for a saw blade is drilled in the chipboard. The jigsaw itself will be attached to the back of the tabletop.
A stem for attaching the boom is also made from furniture guides:

Here's what it looks like assembled:

And the tabletop is attached to the body:

Step 3. Arrow.
The boom itself will be made of two furniture guides. They are bolted together to increase rigidity.

Boom supports are made of chipboard. Before painting and installing them, the point at which the boom is attached to the support is measured. Before doing this, they need to be installed in their place:

After this, it is necessary to drill holes in the support for the bearing seats.

Step 4. Painting.
The prepared supports are spray painted.

While they dry, the machine itself is covered with self-adhesive tape.

Step 5. Assembly.
Bearings are inserted into the supports and screwed into place.

The boom mounting axis will be made of two bolts screwed into the guides as shown in the photo. The diameter of the bolts is selected in accordance with the diameter of the inner race of the bearing.

The bolts are tightened securely, after which the two halves are screwed to each other.

This clearly shows how the boom will be secured in the supports:

The boom is installed in its place and secured with nuts.

Next you need to install the garter spring. It is necessary in order to return the arrow to its original position after the jigsaw pulls it down. This is how the saw will move back and forth. It must be adjusted so that it is not too soft (this will complicate the operation of the machine) and too hard (this can lead to overheating of the jigsaw motor).

How to secure it is shown in the photo:

Then, from a thin strip of metal (1 mm), it is necessary to make fastenings for the file to the arrow. They must rotate freely on the axis, since during operation the boom changes its angle of inclination to the jigsaw, and if they are static, this can lead to breakage of the saw.

This is what the mounts should look like:

The boom supports are additionally reinforced with a long bolt, it can be seen in the photo:

Step 6. Electronic part.
Since access to a manual jigsaw is limited, it is necessary to place the controls on the outside of the body.

To adjust the rotation speed of the jigsaw electric motor, the author used a phase power regulator. Here is its electrical diagram.

In this article we'll talk about the design homemade machine from household jigsaw. Below will be given step by step instructions, photos, videos, as well as drawings and diagrams.

Introduction

There are a lot of design options - from the simplest, where it just sticks out from the tabletop, to quite complex structures with guides, the ability to cut at an angle, when it is possible to set not only 90 degrees to the base, but also change the angle (well, within reason, of course). There are devices (machines) for, that is, making straight and even cuts.

Such devices are increasingly used due to their versatility and functionality. In fact, their parameters and purpose are similar to stationary machines and have a strictly defined practical application in every workshop.

Purpose

Plywood thickness, mm	Layers of plywood, no less	Sanded plywood		Unsanded plywood
		Maximum deviation, mm	Different thickness	Deviation, mm	Different thickness
3 mm	3	+0,3/-0,4	0,6	+0,4/-0,3	0,6
4 mm	3	+0,3/-0,5		+0,8/-0,4	1,0
6 mm	5	+0,4/-0,5		+0,9/-0,4
9 mm	7	+0,4/-0,6		+1,0/-0,5
12 mm	9	+0,5/-0,7		+1,1/-0,6
15 mm	11	+0,6/-0,8		+1,2/-0,7	1,5
18 mm	13	+0,7/-0,9		+1,3/-0,8
21 mm	15	+0,8/-1,0		+1,4/-0,9
24 mm	17	+0,9/-1,1		+1,5/-1,0
27 mm	19	+1,0/-1,2	1,0	+1,6/-1,1	2,0
30 mm	21	+1,1/-1,3		+1,7/-1,2

Preparatory stage

• draw up sketches and make a drawing of the future product,
• make paper patterns for future elements and details
• stick templates onto blanks for future parts.

There are two ways to make templates - take tracing paper and draw kennels on it future procurement. This has been done since ancient times, since nothing is needed for this except a ruler and a pencil. However, if you have a computer and a printer, of course A3 would be nice, but A4 is also suitable (you just have to print several sheets and then glue them together), then the process of drawing with a pencil and ruler can be replaced by drawing the contours of the blanks on the computer.

Then we cut it out with a stationery blade or just a sharp knife.

After that Once the template is ready, it needs to be glued to the workpiece.

Tip: There is no need to glue it tightly, since in the future you will have to remove the template, and this will be difficult if you glue it tightly. Accordingly, you can glue it, for example, with stationery glue, use a glue stick or, as in our example, spray glue.

Creating blanks

At this stage you need to do:

1. Cut the blanks exactly according to the template,
2. Process the workpieces - align the ends, remove burrs
3. Drill the necessary holes;
4. Make grooves with a file;
5. Drill out the seats for the bearings;
6. Select grooves with a router for the cover and a seat;

We install the bracket. It should be noted that the bracket must be fastened without over-tightening the nut - there must be free movement. To do this, use a self-locking nut and only tighten it slightly.

Installing the spring should not be difficult. You need to do it as shown in the photo below.

For future fastening of the file, you need to make a simple clamp in the form of a plate with two holes. It must also be installed on the bracket using a self-locking nut. Moreover, the backlash of the plate in seat The reason is that the bracket moves, and the clamped plate will hinder its movement.

Below is a sketch of the design of the upper attachment point for the file.

Then it is necessary to make technological holes for the jigsaw controls so that it is convenient to change the engine speed, you can gain access to the start button and its lock. There is another solution that makes it more convenient to turn on the tool - this is to place in an easily accessible place on the machine body an outlet and a switch that would turn the voltage on and off in the outlet. We plug the jigsaw cord into a socket, and it turns out that we will turn it on and off using a switch installed in a place convenient for us. However, this is a matter of taste.

So, below is the manufacture of technological holes on the body.

This is what the controls look like when they are now available.

Now you need to make clamps for the file itself. The principle is simple - take the bolt and make a cut at the base of the head, but not all the way. In the future, the file itself will be inserted into this cut. The principle is shown in the photo below.

This is how the upper saw attachment unit is installed and assembled.

The lower unit is almost similar to the upper one, except that it is not a plate that is used, but a standard file (you can use a “BU” one), almost the entire cutting part is sawed off with a grinder (angle grinder) and the shank is left. A hole is made in the remaining cutting part with a similar bolt with a slot at the base of the head, into which the file will also fit. The principle is shown below.

After the file is secured, we install the jigsaw itself. We fasten it with bolts with countersunk heads so that they do not stick out on the table top of the machine.

Now we need to adjust the perpendicularity of the file relative to the table of our machine. To do this, you can use a square, or, as in our case, just a block that is precisely trimmed. We make the adjustment as follows. To adjust the file left/right, the top plate is adjusted - its displacement on the axis - respectively, in the desired direction.

And to adjust the saw blade position forward/backwards, the saw blade mounting unit itself is shifted forward or backward.

The machine is almost ready, all that remains is to make and install the plate that surrounds the jigsaw file. It can be made from PCB or any piece of sheet plastic.

This completes the manufacturing of the jigsaw machine.
We hope that the material presented was useful to you.

Conclusion

Dimensions

Here is a table with overall dimensions:

General assembly diagram

Let's attach a complete assembly diagram, which in a sense can be a 3B drawing for making a machine from a jigsaw with your own hands.

Video

Videos on which this material was made.

Manual power tool very popular both among amateurs and among professionals due to its obvious advantages, namely:

• comparative cheapness and accessibility;
• compactness;
• mobility.

Reverse side of these unconditional advantages is the presence of such shortcomings, How:

• relatively small continuous operation time;
• small achievable accuracy;
• insufficient quality of processing.

Obviously, these shortcomings are free professional stationary solutions - machines and machines on massive frames. As a result, they are quite not cheap, but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. What to do if it is not possible to equip workshop, but I want to improve quality works? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. masters

In our article we will talk about decision, allowing to eliminate known shortcomings manual jigsaw.

Advantages of a tabletop jigsaw

The general ones discussed above flaws hand power tools are fully inherent and jigsaw.

Its main advantage is mobility – involves exclusively manual movements and fixation tool. That is, in reality it turns out that:

1. Very difficult to do smooth, a clear cut: the slightest extra movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cutting line. Those included in the kit guides do not save due to their insufficient rigidity;
2. Corner tilt The saw blade in relation to the workpiece is actually not controlled in any way. And even in the simplest case of direct cutting, when the blade perpendicular jigsaw sole, the result may disappoint. There are at least two reasons:
   • Saw blade – elastic and can bend during the cutting process, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything;
   • On affordable (read: cheap) models, it’s quite often ideal direct the angle between the file and the sole is difficult reach due to the very design of the cheap stamped grounds.

Interesting note, what, say, American craftsmen use manual jigsaw is quite rare. For example, when you need cut opening in the kitchen countertop for installation sinks In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes. Such saws are completely devoid of some disadvantages (mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and... price.

To summarize above, we can confidently conclude that, in some way securing jigsaw on the workbench, it is possible to a certain extent win some of its shortcomings. And if you provide guides rollers for free edge canvases files, you can get a completely even cut. And clean - at correct selection the file itself.

Therefore, special jigsaw table will significantly improve the quality of work with this tool.

Of course, you shouldn’t think that in this way you can get “cheaply” full-fledged tape saw. But more on that a little later, now – briefly about what will be needed for production.

Materials and tools

Materials can be used from those available at hand. I would just like to note that the working surface(“countertop”) must be level and sufficiently tough, Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to keep the following points in mind:

• Can be used plywood, however, thin (less than 12 mm) plywood is susceptible to warping, and it’s not a fact that the existing piece will be quite even.
  Waterproof would be preferable laminated(“formwork”) plywood thickness from 12 mm.
• If we talk about (chipboards), then in general case the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally - a piece quality laminated kitchen table tops or "post-forming".
  Disadvantages: less reliability fastenings tool, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners.
  From advantages, perhaps the main thing is accessibility and simplicity: you can order all set parts according to their dimensions in any furniture workshop. Thickness It’s better to take not the standard 16 mm, but a larger one (for example, 22 mm).
• Metal its properties are almost perfect, but it is quite difficult to find in everyday life suitable sizes piece, polished and smooth. In addition, making the necessary holes in it is somewhat more labor-intensive, then it is wise to use drilling machine.

Set of necessary tool will depend on the selected materials, but in general it is approximate scroll something like this:

• pencil, roulette or a ruler, a carpenter's square - for marking;
• square will also be useful at the stage final assembly and settings;
• screwdrivers and nuts keys according to the selected fastener;
• screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).

In addition, you will need rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearing and fasteners. Actually myself jigsaw will also come in handy.

Manufacturing stages

Regardless of the chosen material necessary:

• manufacture base and connect with work surface with holes for attaching the tool sole;
• make a system brackets for the upper saw blade guide;
• collect and adjust table.

Base and work surface

Dimensions grounds are selected based on dimensions available jigsaw and are indicated approximately.
The dimensions of the working surface are also indicated approximately, from the bracket mounting side it mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides made small projection for ease of fastening rigging(clamps, stops, etc.).

Device bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure.
Sizes can be chosen individually, but some Necessarily need to be kept in mind.

which limit the movement of the file to the side, you need pick up based on the size of the files you plan to use. Width the bearing itself (in reference books it is indicated by the letter IN) must not be larger than the width files, so as not to dull its teeth.

So, for example, if width metal file blades (T123X, T118A) usually more than 5 mm, then they will be suitable bearings with size B 4–5 mm, for example:

At the same time prefer follows the model with the letters ZZ, 2RS as the most protected from exposure to dust, which will certainly occur during the cutting process.

Saw blades tree, on the contrary, they can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case). As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm).

Selected bearing fastener: M3 or M4 screws, nuts (preferably “self-locking” with nylon insert that prevents spontaneous unscrewing).

Distance between axes bearings are also calculated based on the size of the files, thickness canvases may be within from 0.9 to 1.7 mm.

For example, thickness blade T244D is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A - 1 mm. It is better to round in big side.

Assembly and adjustment

Bracket can be secure as follows

This method of fastening will make it possible adjust and the height of the guide bearings in accordance with the length of the saw, and (using a square) perpendicularity the saw itself relative to the work table.

As mentioned above, you shouldn’t delude yourself - even though it’s no longer easy jigsaw, but still not yet band saw. Here are some tips:

• • In a band saw movement saw blade occurs only in one direction – top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
    It is not possible for the workpiece to explode upward, since the pendulum of the jigsaw moves and returnable movement.
    Therefore, the workpiece needs to be well press to the working surface of the table and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as much as possible slower.

Pay attention! More revs and less feed is much better than vice versa.

• When working with a jigsaw (with or without a table) it is useful to remember that move jigsaw files are usually about 15–20 mm, You need to read this value for your instrument in the instructions or determine it yourself. Material thicker than this size should only be sawed with divorce teeth Otherwise shavings will not be completely removed, which can lead to overheating and jamming of the canvas.
• Between the working surface of the table and sole jigsaw can lay a sheet of dense rubber, Having previously made a cut for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas work a little idle, so that the canvas “grinds” to the slot in the rubber. This will protect moving components of an inverted jigsaw from large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in normal mode the tool designers clearly did not count on such a number of them.
• Protective glasses - necessary. You also need to organize the device to be turned on via pedal or provide another way instant turning off the tool. But this is a topic for another article.
• Don't be afraid creatively think and improve your tools, because any idea - just a starting point for creativity, and universal there are no solutions.

For more information on making a jigsaw table, see video:

In the previous article, we told you how you can make it yourself, that is, the cutting element is a thin, flexible file that is tensioned using a spring. This tool is very convenient for making figured cuts - all kinds of curves, radius saws. However, in a carpentry shop the main requirement is to cut in a straight line under different angles. For such tasks, the above-mentioned machine will be inconvenient, so we bring to your attention a new design designed specifically for even and straight cuts.

Introduction

Classification

There are two main constructive approaches to solving this problem; they are divided by location in space:

• up;
• down.

The first option will be described by us a little later, since at the time of writing this article it is in development at the prototype and design stage, but the second option will be described in this article.

Purpose

This design is quite universal and has a wide range of applications from domestic (at home) to industrial use (carpentry workshops, furniture workshops, etc.). Versatility is determined by the fact that the machine is built on the base, which is common hand power tools and almost every master owns it, as it is compact and multifunctional. With its help you can make blanks from various types materials:

• solid wood;
• plastics

and others.

Advantages

Compared to the standard method of use, this device allows you to achieve one, but very important parameter - evenness of the cut. You can saw off quickly and somehow quite simply by placing the workpiece on horizontal surface, hanging down the part to be sawn, and saw off. But there is no need to talk about the quality of the cut, no matter who the master is. Our design allows:

• make a simple, even cut (strictly in a straight line);
• trim the workpiece at a clearly specified angle - 90° and other arbitrarily specified angles;
• make a straight saw at an angle to the plane of the workpiece, when it is not perpendicular to the plane of the workpiece, but has a different, preset angle, for example 45°.

Basic design

The device is not complicated and consists of several basic elements:

• base;
• guide;
• swivel stop.

All structural parts are made of plywood or solid wood.

Here's a little background information that might come in handy.

Nominal plywood thickness, mm	Number of layers of plywood, not less	Sanded plywood		Unsanded plywood
		Maximum deviation, mm	Different thickness	Maximum deviation, mm	Different thickness
3 mm	3	+0,3/-0,4	0,6	+0,4/-0,3	0,6
4 mm	3	+0,3/-0,5		+0,8/-0,4	1,0
6 mm	5	+0,4/-0,5		+0,9/-0,4
9 mm	7	+0,4/-0,6		+1,0/-0,5
12 mm	9	+0,5/-0,7		+1,1/-0,6
15 mm	11	+0,6/-0,8		+1,2/-0,7	1,5
18 mm	13	+0,7/-0,9		+1,3/-0,8
21 mm	15	+0,8/-1,0		+1,4/-0,9
24 mm	17	+0,9/-1,1		+1,5/-1,0
27 mm	19	+1,0/-1,2	1,0	+1,6/-1,1	2,0
30 mm	21	+1,1/-1,3		+1,7/-1,2

Making tooling for straight sawing with a jigsaw

This section will describe step-by-step instructions for making the product. The whole process is divided into three stages of manufacturing structural elements:

• base;
• guide;
• swivel stop.

For production we will need the following materials:

• solid coniferous wood;
• various fasteners (mainly wood screws, furniture fittings, pins, etc.)

and the following tool will also be used:

• Milling machine;
• Circular saw or machine from;
• Drilling machine;
• Grinder();
• Jigsaw with ;
• Various hand tools.

Guide

To make a guide you need to take a board of the following sizes:

It must slide along the guide, so the features of the guide plate (in technical slang - “sole”) are very important.

We mark the guide blank.

Then you need to select a groove with a router, which will serve as a guide along which the jigsaw sole will move during the sawing process.

We make end stops. Then they need to be glued to limit the movement of the jigsaw along the guide, as shown in the photo.

We check the smooth movement of the jigsaw along the guide and if there are defects or burrs that impede the movement, remove them.

Next, you need to make cylindrical bushings to prevent the wood from jamming when clamped with fixing screws. The bushings can be made from an aluminum tube with a diameter of 10mm. We drill holes and press bushings into them. This completes the production of the guide.

Base

The base, by and large, is just a box, which is the basis for attaching the guide and the rotary stop, and most importantly, it raises the entire structure above the level () so that it does not get damaged.

The assembly of the box is simple and unpretentious - the top base is made of the same or solid wood and the sides are made of the same wood. So, we cut out the sides.

And we attach them to the base to form a box, as shown in the photo.

Next, screw M6 or M8 furniture fittings into the drilled holes in the base.

We screw the studs into them and install the guide.

We make a cut in the working groove, as shown in the photo.

We cut out an expanded groove to allow sawing at an angle. Please note that when sawing at an angle, you need a fairly long

We fasten the straight stop with screws, make a hole and install an M6 or M8 furniture fitting to attach the rotary stop. See photo below.

At this point, we consider the manufacture of the base complete.

Rotary stop

The design of the stop is simple and unpretentious; it is a guide with a semicircular element glued to it for fixation on the base.

Install the stop using a bolt of the appropriate diameter. The bolt head can be “placed” in a comfortable handle so as not to have to be used every time spanner. We also secure the guide using homemade nuts made from mortise wing nuts.

At this point we consider the sawing machine ready.

We hope that the material presented was useful to you.

Conclusion

It was done by us universal device for direct cutting based on a household jigsaw, which should rightfully take its rightful place in your workshop among the tools.

A powerful and functional device that can become the pearl of any carpentry workshop. Designed for making the most accurate and even cuts in wooden workpieces of large and small sizes. When using thin saw blades, it is capable of producing curly cuts with relatively large bends. As you might guess, the cost of such a machine, as well as its usefulness, is quite high. At the same time, its mechanism has a fairly simple and understandable structure that can be implemented on your own. How to make a band saw (or band jigsaw) and what you need to know about its structure and use, we will tell you in detail in this article.

Scope of application

One of the main qualities for which a band saw is so valued in industry and everyday life is the ability to perform precise cuts of dimensional materials. With the help of this equipment, a raw log can be easily and quickly turned into a stack of smooth boards, slats or bars. Ease of use and high speed of operation make this machine a desirable object for many commercial homeowners.

A significant advantage due to which the band jigsaw outperforms circular saw, is the small thickness of the saw blade, ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 mm. This feature makes the device very economical when it comes to cutting thick tree trunks. Due to such a careful approach to work, band sawmill is very popular in sawmills.

The furniture production sector, where the accuracy and evenness of the cut cannot be done without a ribbon. wooden blanks play vital role. This machine is available or planned to be purchased in any self-respecting woodworking workshop. The importance of such a device is difficult to overestimate, because if, among other tools, you have it at your disposal, then in most cases, preference for use is given to it.

Design and principle of operation

For many technically inexperienced users, the design of a band saw may seem very complex and incomprehensible. If we look at its mechanism in more detail, it becomes clear that it consists of simple parts that precisely interact with each other. Of course, a band jigsaw cannot be called an elementary device, since it, like any working equipment, has certain structural features necessary for proper operation.

Before moving on to listing the components of the machine and describing the principle of their interaction, it is worth noting that for the most intelligible form of presentation, as an example, the simplest type of apparatus will be disassembled, without tilting the work table, a quick tension lever for the blade, a speed controller and other additions.

The main elements of a band saw are pulleys (wheels on which the saw blade). These elements are fixed on opposite edges of a flat supporting rod installed to the table and/or frame (base and side walls machine). In this case, the lower pulley is fixed in one place, and the upper one is installed on a special slider that changes its vertical position. A motor is connected to the lower wheel, directly or via a belt drive. A damper installed under the table top is used to dampen saw vibrations.

The most common and easiest to manufacture equipment installed in this machine is the guide, which serves for precise cutting of workpieces. In the above construction, it is main principle, on which a jigsaw works on wood. Drawings with exact dimensions and parts list are presented below.

Saw blades

The main indicators of band saw blades come down to the steel grade, dimensions and tooth pitch, measured by TPI. Choice optimal option, depends on the area of ​​application of the saw blade and the size of the machine pulleys. For example, the width of the blade for straight cutting should be many times larger than that used for figure cutting. The thickness of the blade depends on the diameter of the pulley, and is calculated from a ratio of 1:1000, and if the wheels of our machine are 600 mm, then optimal thickness files, should be 0.6 mm. The last factor also depends on the grade of steel.

The smaller the tooth pitch, the higher the number of teeth per inch and the higher the TPI (Tooth Per Inch). Canvases with high rate TPI are designed for slow but very accurate cutting. The lower the number of teeth per inch, the faster the work, but the edges and side sections of the product are less smooth. For universal works, With optimal ratio speed and quality, a blade with a TPI value of 8 is used.

The most common grades of saw blade steel include tool alloys, bimetallic, diamond and carbide. Each type of steel has unique properties, and is designed to work with certain materials. Tool steel blades are suitable for cutting wood in the everyday sense and can work effectively on small-diameter pulleys. Bimetal saw blades are widely used for cutting metal. Diamonds cut marble, granite and others hard materials. Carbide blades are used to saw workpieces made of high-strength metals.

DIY band jigsaw

Not every owner with experience working with tools and a well-equipped workshop is ready to shell out tens of thousands of rubles for a tool that he can make himself. Considering that the operating principle of a band saw is quite simple, the possibility of making it yourself seriously tips the scales in favor of this option. Of course, such a device cannot be constructed from scraps and garbage, so some materials will have to be purchased. Needless to say, the cost of the required components is tens of times lower than the finished device. If you want to make a band jigsaw for wood, expand the capabilities of your workshop and at the same time save money, the following instructions are for you.

The manual below demonstrates in detail and clearly the assembly process of a relatively small band saw, just over 50 centimeters high. The presented device is driven by a cordless screwdriver, but it can be easily replaced with a separate electric motor. The dimensions of the machine can be increased based on your needs, using the principles shown in the instructions as a basis.
Required materials

• Plywood sheet 1500x1500x15 (with reserve)
• PVA wood glue
• Bearings 4 pcs (with internal diameter from 5 mm)
• Threaded stud (5mm diameter)
• Drive nut (2 pcs)
• Wing for tightening threaded connections
• Clamping wing screw
• Electrical tape or tube from a small wheel (stroller)
• Saw blade, length 1065 mm (for Proxxon MBS 240)
• Set of bolts, nuts and washers
• Drill or screwdriver as a motor

By instruments

• Clamps
• Jigsaw
• Circular saw
• Screwdriver or drill
• Vertical sander or table with router
• Screwdriver

The initial stage of manufacturing a band saw will be cutting out the main support element, onto which pulleys, tension elements and a table will subsequently be attached. Load-bearing structure will consist of 4 glued parts, pre-sawn plywood, the dimensions of which are indicated in the photo below. In 2 central boards, a rectangular recess is cut out for a tension and stabilization element. In the side plywood, in the center of this cutout, an even groove is made, 5-6 mm wide and about 5 centimeters long. The connection is made using wood glue and several clamps. Wait at least 24 hours until the glue dries.

Tension and adjustment of the saw blade will be carried out using a rectangle of 2 glued plywood, the opening for which was cut in advance. The block should fit freely into the opening, almost in the lap, with minimal play. Its height should be around 65 mm, so that when it is completely immersed in the support, at least 40 mm remains to its upper edge.

To create a tension mechanism, in the center of the upper part of the bar, drill a hole ½ of the height of the element. Next, we take a pin, about 150-170 mm long, and from one edge, on the side, we make a through hole with a diameter of 2 mm. It will serve as a kind of eyelet into which the fixing screw will be threaded.

To accurately hit the pin, insert it all the way into the hole, mark the edge with electrical tape or hold it with your fingers, then pull it out, apply it to the front wall of the block and make a mark. Next, use a 1-2 mm drill to make a hole. Then we insert the pin into place and tighten the screw on the side. Now the design is fixed and as a final step, all that remains is to make a small wooden cover for the upper part of the frame, drill a hole in it for the pin and screw the lamb on top.

The next step will be to make pulleys with a diameter of 150 mm from plywood, 15-20 mm thick. You can get an even circle using a jigsaw or a cutter built into the table. The latter option is more convenient and allows you to make the most even edges of the wheel that a homemade wood band saw can have. From a jigsaw you can build a kind of compass for cutting round shapes or rely on your skills and cut out the part “by eye”. , we described in detail in a special article. If at manual sawing, the edges turned out to be uneven, they can be processed with sandpaper.

To securely fix the saw blade, the rim of the pulley must be glued with electrical tape, over which you can also pull the camera from a small wheel.