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Chainsaw snow blower: tips and tricks for creating. Homemade snow blower with a chainsaw engine "Ural Do-it-yourself snow blower from a chainsaw Ural

This year, we have had quite a lot of snow in the Altai Territory since the fall, in almost a couple of weeks. Apparently the winter will be snowy, so don’t throw it. It’s good that last year I assembled a small but reliable snow blower with an engine from an old chainsaw. In the spring I only had time to test it: it proved itself to be, in general, quite good, although not without its shortcomings. Based on the experience of using it, I made some changes to it in the summer and now I present it to your readers.

The power unit is from an old Ural-2T chainsaw. This motor was used because it is light and quite powerful (5 hp), and also has a 1:2 reduction gearbox and an inertial clutch. This clutch engages whenever a foreign object enters the rotor, and it disengages the transmission without damage. And also the motor can be easily removed and used for its intended purpose (or on a lawn mower, scythe, etc., say in the summer, when the snow blower is not used in any way). The mountings of the power unit on the frame allow you to use the engine from the Druzhba chainsaw, only the power of this engine is slightly less, which is undesirable. These engines can still be purchased inexpensively today.

I also tried to use a minimum of turned parts, non-scarce materials and spare parts. As a result, the snow blower turned out to be very inexpensive and easy to manufacture.

It was decided to place the motor along the longitudinal axis because shifting the center of gravity to the left or right would lead to a skew of the gripping bucket in the horizontal plane. And then, having sung or on the right, there would have been an unfinished trace from under. And this placement also eliminates steering 8 in one direction or another. Although this placement led to the use of additional transmission parts, the snow blower in this form looks more organic. Which in itself is also important!

The gas tank is a standard one, from a Ural-2T chainsaw with a volume of 1.6 liters, and is attached with two bolts to the steering support, which has two mounting eyes for this purpose. The gas handle (throttle control) is used from a Ural motorcycle.

The snow blower actually does not have a frame, or it can be called a combined one - a pair of levers with a steering cross member welded to the bucket frame.

Almost the entire frame is welded from square pipes of 20*20*1.7 mm, with the exception of the upper part of the bucket. A square pipe measuring 10*10*1.7 mm was used there. The bucket is “covered” with galvanized sheet metal 0.5 mm thick, the sheet of which is riveted to the frame with aluminum rivets 5 mm in diameter. The frame design uses a metal plate 600*40*4 mm, it is welded at the bottom of the bucket. And a polyethylene strip measuring 600*60*5 mm is riveted to it. This was done for better sliding of the bucket along the surface being cleaned (mainly on paving slabs).

Rotor-auger with strip-wings without blades

Rotor-auger assembly:
1 - shaft (1/2" pipe); 2 - driven sprocket of the rotor-auger shaft (z=33); 3 - support bearing in the housing (2 pcs.); 4 - rotor wing (metal plate 30x4); 5 - blade rotor (2 pcs.); 6 - auger blade (8 pcs.); 7 - auger blade wing (4 pcs.); 8 support angle (2 pcs.)

The working body consists of a shaft on which two counter-directed screws and a rotor are placed. The shaft is made of water pipe diameter 22*2 mm and length 568 mm. Steel tips are inserted and welded into the ends of the pipe - trunnions for support bearings. The screw rotor is mounted on two support bearings in housings. Bearings with dimensions 40*16*16 mm - closed type, ball. The bodies are cylindrical, machined from steel and each welded to its own section metal corner 25*25*4 mm, which are screwed to the bucket frame with two M8*40 mm bolts and nuts.

A driven sprocket is also installed on the auger and rotor shaft; it is secured with four M6*30 mm bolts and nuts to a flange welded to the shaft. This sprocket has 33 teeth for a chain drive with a pitch of 12.7. The chain is used from the Ant motorcycle. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the chain drive is installed inside the bucket body for the purpose of: firstly, to hide the moving chain with the sprocket, and secondly, given the dimensions of the snow blower, the bucket will have a larger snow-covering width, and thirdly, there will be fewer dead zones at the bucket (places from which it is impossible to capture snow, or limiting it). Twelve steel wing strips are welded to the shaft for attaching the auger blades and rotor.

The auger blades are made of 4 mm thick duralumin sheet. They are composite. Each part (in the shape of a horseshoe - to save material) is cut out with a jigsaw. This design of the blades simplifies their fastening, as well as replacement in case of breakdown. The blades have teeth cut into them to cut through dense snow. The “horseshoes” are secured to the auger wings with MB threaded bolts and nuts. The protruding parts of the screws are cut off and riveted so that they do not catch on anything and do not unwind. A duralumin sheet was used specifically to facilitate the rotating structure of the rotor-screw. Operation has shown that the 4-mm duralumin sheet provides sufficient strength.

Snow blower chassis (frame with engine and wheels):
1 - gas tank; 2 - engine; 3 - wheel; 4 - cardan shaft; 5 - bearing unit; 6 - drive sprocket (z-17)

The rotor blades (there are two of them) are made of sheet metal stainless steel 2 mm thick. I didn't use it on purpose, but because I didn't have a simple one at hand. steel sheet the required thickness, but the duralumin sheet has run out. The rotor blades are screwed, if possible, at the same distance from the shaft to eliminate runout during rotation. It is necessary to manually balance the rotor by placing it on the bearings. But if the wings and blades of the auger rotor are installed the same size and identical, then nothing will have to be balanced. But you still need to check.

The drive chain can be tightened or loosened by installing the auger-rotor shaft on the frame closer or further from the drive sprocket.

A cardan transmission is installed in place of the drive sprocket of the chainsaw engine gearbox. It connects the gearbox to the driving 17-tooth chain sprocket (with a pitch of 12.7 mm). The drive sprocket is installed at the end of the second bend of the propeller shaft. The driveshaft itself rests on two sealed ball bearings measuring 40*16*17 mm, installed in housings. The bodies are machined from steel and welded to corners measuring 40*40*4 mm and 120 mm long, which are attached to the frame using two threaded bolts M 10*40 mm with nuts.

Wheels measuring 3.25*8 inches with bearings built into the disc hub, used from Chinese wheelbarrows. The wheels are mounted on a tubular axle made from a water pipe with a diameter of 26 mm and a length of 550 mm. At the ends of the pipe, two axles with an outer diameter of 20 mm are welded, onto which the wheels are directly installed and secured to them with two M10x30 mm bolts. I installed these wheels this winter (at first they were of a smaller diameter). These wheels are more convenient to use, as they have a larger diameter and width and do not sink so much in the snow. However, the quality of the rubber leaves much to be desired.

They haven’t started doing wheel drive yet, and I think that’s right. Since the snow blower is light and there will be little traction with the ground.

When working, if you encounter a dense area with compacted snow, you need a lot of traction force. But you can’t create it even with good tires, and you can’t install steel lugs - you’ll ruin it paving slabs. But there is a way out: with increased resistance to movement, you need to rest one foot on the wheel axle and push the snow blower. In this way, I can clear a meter-high (depth) snowdrift without any problems.

At first there was also a sleeve on the bucket that directed the snow to the side, but I abandoned it, since wet and sticky snow got stuck in it. And the sleeve also contributed to the creation of snowdrifts, and this led to snow retention. And when working, the sleeve did not save me from snow flying in my face. Fine snow dust is driven by the wind in the appropriate direction. Sleeveless snow from the rotor spinning on high speed, is thrown high up and forward and sprays. Since the air is constantly moving, even when there seems to be no wind, snow dust falls neatly nearby. And if the wind blows, it generally carries it far away. At low, idle engine speeds, the snow is not sprayed so much and it is denser, flies out and lies in front. This is necessary to work in any “corridor”.

In general, the snow blower turned out to be small in size; lightweight - its weight was only 35 kg; economical - consumes little fuel - one liter of gasoline is enough to clear a fairly large area, and most importantly, quite productive and easy to use.

Total consumption of basic materials:
Square pipe 20x20*1 mm - 7.8 m. Square pipe 10*10x1.5 mm - 0.6 m. Pipe with a diameter of 22x1.7 mm - 0.6 m; pipe with a diameter of 26x1.7 mm - 0.55 m. Steel pole with a section of 40x4 mm - 1.2 m; cross section 30x4 mm - 1.8 m. Half a sheet standard sizes galvanized sheet. A gasoline engine, two wheels and a few other things.

And among the identified shortcomings: this is a manual portable starter, which is inconvenient to carry with you all the time.

D. Slonov, Altai region

On the territory Russian Federation In winter there is a large amount of snow. In some places the precipitation reaches a height of a meter or more. It is in such conditions that a snow blower is simply an irreplaceable thing. The market offers large assortment snow removal equipment different power household and semi-professional types. However, not everyone will be able to allocate sufficient sum of money for the purchase of expensive foreign cars. One of the options for obtaining a snow blower could be homemade version made from a chainsaw.

How to assemble a snow blower with your own hands?

Having understood the design of snow blowers and familiarized yourself with the drawings from the Internet, you can build a snow blower with your own hands using a chainsaw. Even a beginner can easily master this homemade product. Having a number of necessary components, tools and spare parts on hand, you can construct a homemade snow blower.

The only difficulty you may encounter is finding a power unit. However, any motor of domestic or foreign chainsaws is suitable for these purposes. On forums and on many websites you can find various diagrams and drawings that show what components are needed and how to connect them together.

Choosing a chainsaw for a homemade snow blower

The power and performance of a snow blower directly depends on the engine you choose. This main element is removed from the chainsaw. The higher the power of the saw, the better. The engines in household models are two-stroke, power varies from 2 to 10 horsepower. For a homemade snow blower, 5 horsepower will be quite enough. Below we will look at the most popular brands of chainsaws that are often used for homemade snow blowers.

Chainsaw “Friendship”

This chainsaw was developed during the USSR, in 1950, after which it began to be produced en masse in the Soviet Union. Since then, the technical indicators and characteristics of the saw have become significantly outdated. The weight of the unit is 12 kg, in addition, the saw has large dimensions. Experienced owners say that the first saws, which were assembled in the first decade of the plant’s existence, still work properly.

However, chainsaws produced after 1990 are characterized by frequent defects, regular breakdowns, malfunctions and a short service life.

Gasoline saw “Ural”

Another representative of the domestic production of chainsaws. “Ural” tools can be called a kind of improvement on “Druzhba” saws. With the same weight, the Ural has more power from a two-stroke gasoline engine (5.5 horsepower) and smaller dimensions. In this regard, the performance of these devices is much higher.

German chainsaw “Stihl”

Imported sawing equipment is often much better in quality and performance. Foreign factories, such as the German concern “Stihl” always try to produce technological innovations. Of course, this also affects the cost of the equipment. “Shtil” is one of the most popular companies among Russian population, because it has high power, excellent quality, long service life and relatively low price.

What does it take to make a snow blower?

Next, using an example, we will look at assembling a snow blower with our own hands based on a Ural chainsaw. The fact is that in this particular chainsaw the inertial clutch in some cases acts as a kind of fuse, protecting the rotor from breakdowns and malfunctions. The equipment motor is equipped with a 1:2 reduction gearbox.

Our goal is to create reliable and productive snow removal equipment with our own hands on a budget.

To do this, we will try to use accessible and cheap materials:

• aluminum and metal pipes;
• metal sheets;
• bearings and fastenings;
• chainsaw motor;
• welding;
• improvised tools.

The assembly process itself is not particularly difficult, so every man could successfully make a snow blower with his own hands at home. You don't need any special skills to do this. If you don’t know how to properly operate some tools, you can watch a couple of video lessons on this topic.

Schemes, drawings and principles of assembling a homemade snow blower

On the Internet, on forums and discussions, you can find many drawings of a snow blower made from a chainsaw with your own hands. In our example, consider the following diagrams:

The engine itself must be placed on the longitudinal axis for reliability and quality of operation. In addition to the motor, use fuel tank from a Ural chainsaw, securing it to the steering support with two bolts. The control handles can be taken from the motorcycle. To create a bucket you will need pipes with square section 20x20x1.7mm, from which the frame is designed and covered with a tin sheet, the thickness of which is not less than 0.5 mm.

Below are drawings for assembling the most important part of the snow blower - the auger rotor.

You can make an auger with your own hands from the following parts:

• shaft in the form of a ½ pipe;
• a driven sprocket mounted on the shaft;
• two bearings mounted on the housing;
• rotor wing 30x4 mm;
• rotor blades, 2 pcs;
• auger blades, 8 pcs;
• wings for blades, 4 pcs;
• support corners, 2 pcs.

The blades can be made from duralumin sheet, the thickness of which is 4 mm. Using jigsaws you cut out a kind of horseshoe. You will make the fastening process much easier if you cut them individually rather than as a single piece. Below are drawings of the rotary auger blades.

As described above, when creating blades, it is better to cut them separately, in the form of horseshoes, and attach them to the shaft. However, some users cut rings out of metal sheet using a grinder and a jigsaw, and then stretch them into a spiral with a vice. This method is more effective, but significantly more difficult in terms of physical activity.

Video reviews and lessons on how to make a snow blower

6339 10/08/2019 5 min.

Small-sized snow blowers that allow you to automate labor-intensive process snow clearing are in high demand. But what to do if you simply don’t have the funds to buy a snow blower?

The only way out is the design of a homemade snow blower from what can be found in almost every thrifty owner’s garage. For example, chainsaw, which is available to many people, especially in rural areas.

Operating principle

The design of a factory snow blower is quite simple. The main driving force is the motor, the power of which will determine the quality of snow removal, throw range, etc.

In addition to the engine, snow blower device includes:

• A housing made of metal or plastic that protects working components from foreign environments.
• A screw mechanism consisting of a shaft and screw parts.
• An outlet pipe through which snow is thrown out.
• If the system is two-stage, then in addition to the screw, an impeller is also used ( rotary mechanism), which throws snow into the outlet pipe.
• Basic control systems, handles, clutch, etc.
• Depending on the configuration, a wheelbase, tracks or skis may be present.

The operating principle of a homemade snow blower will be no different from the store-bought version. It also comes with the auger will enter, which is directed with screws to the center of the shaft. It directs the snow cover to the blade, which transfers the mass further to the outlet pipe.

If the design includes a rotor, then the incoming snow from the blade falls first on it. It performs additional processing of the snow mass, after which it is sent into the pipe.

Then the snow is thrown out to a certain distance (up to 12 meters).

Manufactured homemade a chainsaw snow blower has its advantages:

• By making your own snow blower, you can save a lot of money that you would otherwise have spent on purchasing a new snow blower. At the same time, even if you have to buy the chainsaw itself (see which chainsaws are good), you will still remain in the black.
• A snowplow made with your own hands from a Druzhba chainsaw or other models will have similar performance as purchased analogues.
• The remaining parts of the body, the screw mechanism and other structural components are made from readily available materials, such as metal pipes, iron sheets, etc. This is again about saving.

You will find more complete information in the video below:

The only drawback will be the fact that a homemade snowblower made from a chainsaw it will not be possible to install the mechanism responsible for the self-propelled structure. But if you provide a kind of sled or skis at the bottom of the unit, then this task will not be so difficult.

The chainsaw snow blower has other features:

• Almost any pipe can be used as an outlet pipe. plastic pipe, the diameter of which will be at least 16 cm.
• The control handle can be made independently, from any metal tube.
• The width of the bucket will depend on the power of the chainsaw engine. If it is powerful enough, the width of the bucket can be increased.

Due to the fact that a homemade snow blower made with your own hands from a chainsaw is not self-propelled, it is better provide a kind of skid for better movement of the unit on the snow cover. You can use regular wooden blocks, corresponding to the frame length.

You can attach a plastic base to them, which will improve the running performance of the snow blower.

You can select some tips, helping in the operation of the unit:

• To prevent foreign objects from getting into a running engine, you can install special safety bolts that eliminate this threat.
• After starting the unit for the first time, you need to check all connections of the snow blower. If required, tighten all nuts fully.
• Give preference to closed type bearings so that snow does not get inside the housing.
• Do not try to remove heavily compacted snow. Do preliminary preparation coating using hand tools.

Conclusion

Constructing a homemade snowblower from an existing chainsaw is a fairly optimal way out of a situation where there is not enough cash to buy a snow blower in a store.

Taking into account the fact that the cost of even the cheapest unit can be at least 15 thousand rubles, this issue becomes quite acute. (read about choosing a gasoline snow blower)

Another good thing about using a chainsaw engine is that its power is enough to remove fairly large volumes of snow. At the same time, the power of a homemade snow blower is almost identical to that available from store-bought models (see Lynx snow blower).

6339 10/08/2019 5 min.

Small-sized snow blowers that allow you to automate the labor-intensive process of clearing snow are in great demand. But what to do if you simply don’t have the funds to buy a snow blower?

The only way out is the design of a homemade snow blower from what can be found in almost every thrifty owner’s garage. For example, chainsaw, which is available to many people, especially in rural areas.

Operating principle

The design of a factory snow blower is quite simple. The main driving force is the motor, the power of which will determine the quality of snow removal, throw range, etc.

In addition to the engine, snow blower device includes:

• A housing made of metal or plastic that protects working components from foreign environments.
• A screw mechanism consisting of a shaft and screw parts.
• An outlet pipe through which snow is thrown out.
• If the system is two-stage, then in addition to the auger, an impeller (rotary mechanism) is also used, which throws snow into the outlet pipe.
• Basic control systems, handles, clutch, etc.
• Depending on the configuration, a wheelbase, tracks or skis may be present.

The operating principle of a homemade snow blower will be no different from the store-bought version. It also comes with the auger will enter, which is directed with screws to the center of the shaft. It directs the snow cover to the blade, which transfers the mass further to the outlet pipe.

If the design includes a rotor, then the incoming snow from the blade falls first on it. It performs additional processing of the snow mass, after which it is sent into the pipe.

Then the snow is thrown out to a certain distance (up to 12 meters).

Manufactured homemade a chainsaw snow blower has its advantages:

• By making your own snow blower, you can save a lot of money that you would otherwise have spent on purchasing a new snow blower. At the same time, even if you have to buy the chainsaw itself (see), you will still remain in the black.
• A snow blower made by yourself from or other models will have similar performance as its purchased counterparts.
• The remaining parts of the body, the screw mechanism and other structural components are made from readily available materials, such as metal pipes, iron sheets, etc. This is again about saving.

You will find more complete information in the video below:

The only drawback will be the fact that a homemade snowblower made from a chainsaw it will not be possible to install the mechanism responsible for the self-propelled structure. But if you provide a kind of sled or skis at the bottom of the unit, then this task will not be so difficult.

The chainsaw snow blower has other features:

• Almost any plastic pipe with a diameter of at least 16 cm can be used as an outlet pipe.
• The control handle can be made independently, from any metal tube.
• The width of the bucket will depend on the power of the chainsaw engine. If it is powerful enough, the width of the bucket can be increased.

Due to the fact that a homemade snow blower made with your own hands from a chainsaw is not self-propelled, it is better provide a kind of skid for better movement of the unit on the snow cover. You can use ordinary wooden blocks corresponding to the length of the frame.

You can attach a plastic base to them, which will improve the running performance of the snow blower.

You can select some tips, helping in the operation of the unit:

• To prevent foreign objects from getting into a running engine, you can install special safety bolts that eliminate this threat.
• After starting the unit for the first time, you need to check all connections of the snow blower. If required, tighten all nuts fully.
• Give preference to closed type bearings so that snow does not get inside the housing.
• Do not try to remove heavily compacted snow. Pre-prepare the coating using hand tools.

Conclusion

Designing a homemade snow blower from an existing chainsaw is a fairly optimal way out of a situation where there is not enough money to buy a snow blower in a store.

Taking into account the fact that the cost of even the cheapest unit can be at least 15 thousand rubles, this issue becomes quite acute. (read about choosing a gasoline snow blower)

Another good thing about using a chainsaw engine is that its power is enough to remove fairly large volumes of snow. At the same time, the power of a homemade snow blower is almost identical to that available from store-bought models (see snow blower).

Now the market for small household equipment offers a large number of snow blowers, both in the form attachments to walk-behind tractors, and in the form of a completely separate mechanism equipped with a power unit.

If you take a good look at the design of any one, then there is nothing complicated there, which means you can make it yourself, having only necessary materials and tools. You will also need a power plant. Many craftsmen were able to adapt the engine from the Soviet Ural chainsaw as a propulsion device for a homemade cleaner.

Advantages and disadvantages

Couple positive points homemade snow blower made from a Ural chainsaw:

• The cost of manufacturing such a unit will be several times cheaper than purchasing a factory model of a snow blower, even if you have to buy a used chainsaw;
• The performance of a snow blower with a Ural chainsaw engine will not be much inferior to this indicator of the factory model;
• Almost all other elements of the snow blower are made from scrap materials - sections of pipes, sheets and pieces of thin iron.

The main disadvantage that a homemade snow blower based on a chainsaw has, and because of which it is inferior to factory models, and even then not all of them, is the lack of a mechanism that ensures the self-propelled movement of this snow blower; it has to be pushed in front of you, which is not particularly easy.

But overall, homemade unit worthy of attention because it can significantly save money and make snow removal easier.
Photo of a homemade snow blower from a chainsaw Ural

Frame, power plant

It is better to weld the frame from small diameter pipes. The sections of pipes that will be located longitudinally relative to the unit itself will also act as skids, with the help of which the snow blower will move through the snow. Therefore, it is better to cut the edges of these sections that will be in front at an angle, and weld the holes so that snow does not pack into the pipes.

A frame is welded from two sections of pipes that will be located longitudinally and two sections that will be located transversely. In this case, cross members are needed to mount the engine on them, so one should be located at the rear edge of the longitudinal sections, and the second cross member approximately 200 mm from the first.

The distance between longitudinal sections should not exceed 700 mm. That is, the frame is shaped like the letter P, but with two cross members.

The power plant is used from a Soviet chainsaw because it does not have much torque, but it has good traction. You won't need the entire chainsaw, so you need to remove the motor from the frame. Next, it needs to be redone a little. In place of the chainsaw chain drive sprocket, you need to install a small drive sprocket from the Voskhod, Minsk motorcycle. You can simply weld it to the chainsaw sprocket, having previously centered it.
Photo of the finished power plant

Auger, auger body, drive

Let's move on to the working parts of the Ural snow blower, namely the auger. It is made from a piece of pipe of small diameter. You can also use any shafts up to 80-850 mm long. An important condition is the selection of bearings for the shaft. This length of the shaft is needed to provide its drive, which will be located outside the housing.

Next from sheet metal 2-3 mm thick you need to cut 4 circles with an outer diameter of 300 mm. Holes with a diameter of 220-230 mm are cut in these circles. Next, the existing disks are cut on one side and at the cut site the disk is stretched, forming something like a coil of a spring. This must be done with all 4 blanks.

Then you need to calculate the center of the shaft, taking into account the section that will be used for the drive. In the center of the shaft, two plates 130 mm long and 150 mm wide will need to be welded to it. They should be parallel to each other. These plates will serve as blades for throwing snow.

The prepared screw bands are welded on one side to the blades, on the other side spacers are attached to the shaft, to which the other ends of the bands are welded. The ribbons need to be positioned so that their turns move toward the center. That is, on both sides of the blades there should be two tapes installed in parallel and with their turns directed towards the center. Moreover, this entire structure should not exceed 700 mm in length; the rest of the shaft will go under the drive.

Photo of the auger mechanism of a homemade snow blower

Let's move on to the body. It is made from round sidewalls, which in diameter should exceed the auger by about 50-70 mm. Next, a sheet of metal 1-1.5 mm thick is taken. It bends along the circumference of the sidewalls and is welded to them, forming a semicircle. Holes are made in the center of the sides into which the finished auger is inserted. From the outside of the sidewalls, bearings are put on the shaft, pressed against the sidewalls and secured, while the position of the shaft is centered. To secure the bearings to the sidewalls, you can make cages, or simply weld them to the sidewalls with outer races, but then the structure will not be dismountable.

Next you need to make a snow drain. You can make it from a segment aluminum pipe with a diameter of 150 mm and a length of 100 mm, as well as pieces of sheet metal from which a box will need to be formed. The pipe section will be the basis of the snow guide. To install it, a hole of the required diameter is made in the auger body, located so that it is slightly behind the auger blades. A piece of pipe is inserted into the hole and secured in it. bolted connection, and the prepared box is attached to the pipe.

The driven rear sprocket from the specified motorcycles is put on the section of the shaft allocated for the drive and secured to it by welding.

All that remains is to put the structure together. The housing together with the auger is placed on the longitudinal elements of the frame and welded into it. The power unit is attached to the crossbars, but in such a way that the driving and driven sprockets are located in the same plane. A motorcycle chain will be used for drive. Its tension can be realized in two ways: tension by moving the power plant, but for this it is necessary to ensure the possibility of longitudinal movement of the motor with the possibility of fixing it at any point. It is also possible to implement a tension sprocket bolted to the auger body.

All that remains is to attach a control handle made from pipes to the frame, and bring the engine throttle control to the handle.

Before a test run of the snow blower, you need to check all connections and make sure that the auger rotates easily and does not cling to the body elements.
Video review of a homemade snow blower using a Ural chainsaw: