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Sparsely tiered crown. Systems for the formation of trees in dense gardens (rounded crowns). Formation of overgrowing branches

A sparsely tiered crown is characterized by strength and stability, low crowding of branches, good illumination and ventilation inside the crown, ease of work on crown formation and tree care. Fruit tree with sparsely tiered crown requires significant space on the site.

Another common type of fruit tree crown is vase-shaped

crowns, also called cup-shaped and cauldron-shaped. The vase-shaped crown is an improved form of the natural leaderless crown. fruit trees, which consists of a greatly shortened central conductor and 3-5 main branches. The vase-shaped crown is suitable for short-lived, rather weak-growing types of fruit trees and is formed in two versions: regular and improved.

The formation of a simple vase-shaped crown should begin by leaving 3-5 branches above the trunk, evenly directed in different directions, formed from adjacent buds. The divergence angle of the branches, depending on their number, can vary from 120 to 90°. The central conductor must be cut above the upper branch left. Branches that do not participate in the formation of the crown must be shortened at a distance of 40-50 cm from their base. If you plant a pair of second-order branching branches on each skeletal branch, you will get full-fledged paired branches.

Vase-shaped crown of fruit trees

1. Formation of a vase-shaped crown: three main skeletal branches.

2. Formation of a vase-shaped crown with five main skeletal branches

When forming an improved vase-shaped crown, 3-5 skeletal branches should be left above the trunk, not from adjacent buds, but from buds located at a distance of 15 cm from one another. Otherwise, the techniques for forming an improved vase-shaped crown are the same as for forming a simple vase-shaped crown.

The advantages of a vase-shaped crown are good illumination of its internal areas, compactness and moderate height of trees with this type of crown, and therefore the associated ease of tree care and harvesting. The disadvantage of this type of crown is some fragility of fastening the main branches to the trunk. A vase-shaped crown is usually formed in light-loving fruit crops in the variant of an improved vase-shaped crown.

When forming a vase-shaped crown, it is necessary to ensure that the skeletal branches are not exposed, but are evenly covered with overgrowing branches and that the crown does not thicken. To do this, competing shoots and strong branches growing vertically upward on the inside of skeletal branches should be regularly removed. The center of the crown should always be open to sun rays, it must not be allowed to become overgrown. A common crown shape for fruit trees is spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebush. This is an artificial small-sized rounded crown of fruit trees, characterized by the presence of a well-developed central conductor, on which horizontal branches are arranged evenly in a spiral, without tiers, almost at a right angle or slightly raised at an angle

10-15°. The length of the horizontal branches reaches from 1.5 to 2 m, and as you approach the top of the conductor, the length of the branches gradually and proportionally decreases. The height of a fully formed tree does not exceed 2.5-3.5 m.

In the best possible way Suitable for creating a spindle-shaped crown are those varieties of fruit crops that have high bud proactivity, a moderate tendency to grow and branch, and branches that tend to naturally take on more or less close to horizontal plane position.

The formation of a spindle-shaped crown begins with pruning an annual seedling, which is shortened in the spring at a height of 70-90 cm from the soil surface; in the summer, during the growing season, the branches grow freely, and early autumn shoots longer than 60 cm are bent to a horizontal position and tied to a trunk or to stakes driven obliquely into the ground. In the spring of next year, the central conductor is cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the last bent branch; if the growth of the tree is weak, this operation should not be performed. The main point of formative activities is to ensure that there are no empty areas without branches on the central conductor. In all subsequent years, until the plant reaches a height of 2.5-3.5 m, the branches newly formed on the central conductor should also be bent to a horizontal position and secured by tying them to the underlying branches. The distance between the bases of the branches on the central conductor should not exceed 15-20 cm. In case of insufficiently intensive growth of the lateral branches, the central Spindle-shaped crown

A vase, or vase-shaped rounded crown, is one of the classic artificial decorative crowns of fruit trees. It is characterized by the absence of a central conductor and the presence of main branches evenly spaced in a circle, creating a bowl shape. The number of branches can be different: 6,8, 10, etc. The bowl can be formed from low-growing varieties of apple and pear trees, grafted on medium-growing rootstocks. To create a bowl shape, the seedling is placed inside a pre-prepared metal frame, cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface in such a way as to obtain 3 lateral branches evenly spaced in a circle. The next year, 2 shoots are left on each branch and thus a vase is obtained, consisting of 6 main skeletal branches. If, when pruning a seedling, you provide and leave 4 side branches, and in the spring of next year you leave 2 shoots on each of them, you will get a vase of 8 main skeletal branches. In the first 2-3 years, the main branches are tied horizontally to the frame as they grow, and later they are given a vertical position. Crown formation lasts up to 5 years. A vase can be created from various grafted varieties of apple trees, differing in the color and shape of the fruit, this will increase the decorative value of the vase

A spiral vase, or spiral cordon, is a type of vase-shaped rounded crown. To form it, you must first make and install metal cylinder a metal frame with four posts, along which a wire is stretched in a spiral at an angle of 40° at a distance of 40 cm between the turns. A seedling is planted next to the stand, the branches of which are directed along the spirals of the frame. The formation of the crowns is completed when the spiral vase reaches a height of 1.5-2 m and a width of 2 m. It is recommended to regulate shoot growth during crown formation by systematic summer pinching of shoots. Low-growing varieties of apple and pear trees are suitable for forming a spiral vase.

millet gardening and quickly conquered< лярность у плодоводов Болгарии, Венгрии, мынии, Франции и других стран. Больший сложных классических форм со строгим го< трически correct location It is now used exclusively in decorative gardening. Modern palmettes have become much simpler compared to classic palmettes, the requirements for the formation of palmettes have been significantly simplified, it is easier to place the main skeletal branches and to form overgrowing ones. Form gardening is much more intensive than growing trees with natural crowns and requires more knowledge and practice. Formal gardening includes many techniques: detailed pruning, tying up shoots, and changing special techniques such as banning, twisting, and girdling branches.

Of the fruit crops in molded gardening, the most commonly used are apple and pear trees, and much less often stone fruit trees. For apple and pear trees, the most suitable varieties are those characterized by moderate growth and fruiting on ringlets, which are annual growths up to 3 cm long with one well-developed apical bud.

Modern views Palmettes have become significantly simpler in terms of work on their formation, and have become more accessible for creation on amateur farms even without extensive experience in crown formation.

The undeniable advantages of palmettes as espalier forms are the compactness of the plants, good illumination of all areas of the flat crown, high yields per unit of garden area occupied by a tree, ease of caring for the tree crown and harvesting. Most significant shortcomings are the labor intensity of crown formation, according to some information, a delay in fruiting, and a slow increase in harvest volume.

Have you planted a garden, but don't know how to prune? Have you bought a cottage with old trees and want to rejuvenate them? Don’t know which fruit tree pruning scheme to use in the spring? Confused about terms and rules? If the answer to at least one question is yes, you have come to the right place. Especially for you, we have collected information from books on gardening and added recommendations to it. experienced gardeners, brought everything into a readable form, attached photos and video materials. Read and learn with us!

Any pruning is an injury to the tree. How quickly it will recover depends on the type and quality of the instrument. fruit crop. The smoother the cut, the faster the plant will recover.

• a garden knife is the main tool;
• hacksaw - for cutting thick, old branches;
• secateurs

Get used to using a garden knife

Although pruners cut branches with ease, they compress the wood, which increases the time for wounds to heal.

• rejuvenating;
• sanitary:
• formative.

Let's look at them in more detail during the article.

Crown formation scheme

The formation of the crown of fruit trees begins in the second year of life and lasts several years. Any pruning scheme will be difficult if the branches are not positioned correctly. In Russia, the two most common methods are: sparsely tiered and without tier.

Let's consider the first: it is simple, accessible to novice gardeners and suitable for all types of fruit trees.

The first, lower tier is formed in the nursery, this makes the work of a novice gardener easier. When planting a seedling, you need to cut off all branches by 1/3. Root system is damaged when dug up, and such pruning promotes the harmonious development of the plant. How soon after planting should you start forming the crown?

In the first year, a young fruit tree adapts to new conditions, roots develop, and therefore growth is small. In the second year, shoot growth will also be insignificant. From the third year after planting, start forming the crown.

In a sparsely tiered system, the crown of a fruit tree consists of a central trunk and 5-6 branches located on at different levels. On the right side schematic drawing the structure is visible: each branch of the next tier is located in the middle of the angle formed by the lower branches. See the distance between tiers on the left side of the image.

Anti-aging pruning: how to do it right

If orchard characterized by the predominance of old trees over 30 years old - a decrease in yield is observed. In this case, it is necessary, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Inspect the tree for dying branches.
2. At their base, select strong fatty shoots.
3. Step back 1-2 cm from the base of the fatty shoot and cut off (cut down) the drying branch.
4. Cover the cut area with garden varnish.

It is advisable to have not one, but several strong shoots near the pruning site: then the wound will heal faster. To prevent the shoots from growing too much, you need to tweezing.

that the process of rejuvenation of an old fruit tree should take place gradually.

If you remove all the dying branches at once, the tree may wither. Therefore, experts recommend extending rejuvenation over 4 years, performing it in parts. The formation of the crown in the future is the same as for a young tree.

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - what you need to know

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in the fall. Its purpose is to remove dried or diseased branches.

Rules for this type of pruning:

• remove shoots above the outer bud, skeletal branches - onto the ring;
• cut off diseased and dry branches with the healthy part;
• if the branch is located vertically, make an oblique cut;
• After completing pruning, lubricate all wounds with garden varnish or other putty.

Essentially sanitary pruning resembles partly rejuvenating, partly shaping. The technique and rules are the same.

When and how to prune an apple tree

The answer to the question of which month to prune an apple tree depends on its age. If the tree is young, prune in the spring, before the buds open. The time depends on the region - approximately early to mid-March. For an adult tree, in which the movement of sap and swelling of the buds occurs earlier, winter pruning is carried out at the end of February.

Rules to follow:

• make sure that the thickness of the branches that extend from the conductor is not more than 1/2 the diameter of the trunk;
• branches that are too thin are also unacceptable;
• the angle of departure is 40 0 ​​(it can be corrected, look at the picture);
• V lower tier no more than 3-4 branches with a divergence angle of at least 90 0.

Conclusion

The following literature on pruning was used in this article:

• Kolesnikov E.V. ‘Advice to gardeners’ - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1972 - p.152;
• Videnov B.M., Kovachev G.T., Manov S.L. 700 tips for the amateur gardener - 1972.

The sparsely tiered crown of a tree is the look closest to the natural one. On the tree trunk, the branches are arranged in groups, that is, in tiers of two or three pieces, and individually.

Start forming with annual plant. True, only the part that grew from a grafted bud is annual. And the rootstock is already three whole years old. In the first year it grew from a seed (or from a cutting), in the second it took a graft, and in the third a yearling grew on it.

In early spring, measure 50 cm on the tree from the soil level. This will be the trunk area. It is undesirable to have a bole less than 50 cm, since subsequently the lower branches will interfere with caring for the garden: digging or loosening the soil, mowing the grass in gardens with turf, applying fertilizers, collecting tree litter, trimming branches. It is dangerous to leave a very high trunk in the middle zone. He will suffer greatly from sunburn and frost damage. So 50 cm, as practice has shown, is the best option.

Above the trunk area, measure another 30 cm. This will be the area where the main branches of the first tier of the crown are located. Cut everything that is located above above a well-developed bud, which, when viewed vertically, is located exactly above the place where the thorn was cut. This is done to ensure that the trunk does not deviate from the vertical position.

If you will make the cut with a garden knife, then place it with reverse side buds at an angle of 30 degrees to the horizontal and cut the branch with a sharp movement towards you. You cannot leave a stump above the bud, otherwise the shoot may deviate greatly to the side. But you can’t cut its base either: it will dry out, and the shoot will grow from another bud and go completely in the wrong direction in which the central conductor should grow (Fig. 7).

If you are not sure that you will get a good cut above the bud, leave another 10 cm over the measured ones. This will be the thorn to which you will tie the shoot when it reaches a length of 10-12 cm (Fig. 8).

In the summer, take a closer look: have the shoots on the thorn from the dormant buds begun to grow? If you find them, break them out; the tree does not need them. By the way, look to see if there are any shoots in the trunk area. If there are any, pinch them above the 3-4th leaf. After pinching, they will not grow much, and their leaves will contribute to the thickening of the bole and better growth shoots in the branching zone.

In the spring of next year, remove all the branches on the trunk, if they suddenly appear again. In the main branch placement area, select three. The lowest one should be at the height of the trunk (50 cm), and the other two are higher along the trunk at intervals of 15 cm. A little more, a little less - it doesn’t matter. It is important that the main branches are not crowded. One of them should be directed in one direction, and the other two should be directed in the opposite direction. Optimal angle the differences between the main branches are 120 degrees.

Cut out one or two branches closest to the place where the stem was cut last year. These are competitors. They extend from the central conductor at an acute (less than 40 degrees) angle and grow as strongly as the branch with which the crown grows in height. They are not suitable as main branches, as they constantly threaten to break.

Also cut out whole other strong branches that are not part of the frame. Make the cut at their very base, where there is usually an annular influx. Hence the term among gardeners - cut into a ring. By the way, in the annular influx there are a lot of cells capable of active division, which contributes to better and faster healing of wounds. However, if you prefer, you can bend them to a horizontal or drooping position. Let them work on the plant temporarily. You look, and the beginning of fruiting will accelerate. And you will always have time to cut them out. In addition, horizontally located branches will not grow much (Fig. 9.2-3).

Rice. 9. Formation of a sparse-tiered crown:
1-2 - biennial tree and its pruning;
3 - pruning a three-year-old tree;
4 - fully formed crown

Do not cut, bend or shorten branches shorter than 30 cm. Leave them alone. And in the future, during any pruning, never touch such branches, except in special cases. The fact is that most short branches are more prone to fruiting than to growth. Unfortunately, many gardeners do not know this and cut out such branches with the firm confidence that they are doing a good and very necessary thing for the trees. But in fact it is difficult to imagine anything more ridiculous. It hurts to look at trees trimmed into half-boxes.

The three remaining main branches will need some more work. So that none of them overtakes the others in growth, they must be placed in an equal position. Trim their ends at approximately the same level. Or, instead of pruning, you can slightly bend the longer branch downwards and pull the shorter one up. If after this the ends of the branches are not at the same level, you will have to slightly shorten the strongest one.

By the way, the central conductor throughout the entire period of crown formation should be 15-20 cm higher than the ends of the main branches in plants with pyramidal growth, and 10-15 cm in those with spreading growth.

IN next year 50-60 cm above the branches of the first tier, lay two more main branches. The interval between them is 10-15 cm. As last year, equalize them with each other. Be sure to cut out competitors and trim last year's growth of the conductor if it ends up much higher than the ends of the newly abandoned main branches. Those of them that were bent last year to a horizontal or drooping position, if they do not interfere, leave them alone, and if they thicken the crown, shorten them further or cut them into a ring.

A year later, lay another main branch 40 cm above the two branches of the second tier (Fig. 9.4). You can assume that the skeleton of the crown is formed. After a year or two, when the upper single branch takes a stable position, cut off the central conductor above it. A further increase in crown height is undesirable; the optimal is 2.5-3 m. It should be kept at this level.

If you purchased a two-year-old seedling that has several strong branches, then start forming a crown with three branches. The lowest one should be at a height of 40-50 cm from the soil level. The interval between the branches is desirable 10-15 cm, and the divergence angle between the two upper ones is approximately 60-70 degrees.

Kudryavets R. P.

Formation of a sparsely layered crown in fruit trees

Varieties of apple trees grafted on semi-dwarf and sapling rootstocks and pear trees on quince A grow stronger than apple trees on paradise and pear trees on quince C. Therefore, their crowns thicken and require more thinning. The later entry into the fruiting season of trees on semi-dwarf and medium-sized rootstocks makes it possible to extend the period of formation in time. For fruit trees of this type, a sparsely layered crown should be recommended. It was developed at VNIIS named after. I.V. Michurina. Its essence boils down to the fact that three skeletal branches formed from adjacent buds are formed on the tree in the lower tier, and then a new tier of two or three branches is laid in the garden after 40-50 cm. It is better if the branches of the second tier are placed sparsely (through 1-2 buds). The distance between tiers in a continental climate can be reduced to 20-30 cm, and in the south increased to 60-70 cm. Then 1-2 more skeletal branches are laid sparsely at intervals of 15-25 cm. As soon as 5-6 skeletal branches are formed , the conductor is strongly depressed, or transferred to the side branch.

If the orchard is planted with annual seedlings, then in the year of planting they are pruned in the same way as when laying a tiered crown. Formation begins in the second year after planting, when good growth appears. Then similar work is carried out, which is carried out with the planted two-year-olds.

When releasing seedlings from the nursery, you should not limit the number of lateral branches, let there be 4-6 or even more. This will make it possible to select the three most promising branches in the garden. They will subsequently ensure the creation of a strong tree skeleton. The rest should not be deleted, as is sometimes recommended. It is better to shorten them by 4-6 buds (12-15 cm). If one of the three branches breaks, you can always select a replacement from trimmed branches. A powerful growth located next to the conductor (competitor) should also not be cut out in the first years, so as not to weaken the conductor. It is severely suppressed from year to year and only removed after 2-3 years.

The branches intended for the crown skeleton are cut weaker, by about ¼-1/3 of their length, and in order to ensure their proportional growth, they proceed in the same way as when forminglayered crown: strong ones cut more, weak ones cut very little or not at all. Take care of regulating the strength and direction of their growth.

In the year of planting, the growth is weak, so the laying of subsequent branches can only begin in the spring of the second year. For this purpose, the conductor is shortened at a height of 50-60 cm. If the branches of the first tier turn out to be very weak or the conductor has not reached the proper height, the laying of subsequent branches is postponed for a year. In the south, where growth is most intense, branches are laid at 60-70 cm intervals and the conductor is cut at a height of 70-80 cm from the first tier. In harsh areas, the distance between the tiers is reduced to 20-30 cm and the conductor is cut by 30-40 cm. In the upper part of the conductor, after pruning, several shoots appear, of which 2-3 are selected that are well located in space, and the rest are pinched. In subsequent years (3-4th) the conductor is shortened so that another 1-2 branches can be laid at intervals of 20-25 cm. When 5-6 skeletal branches have been laid, the conductor is transferred to a side branch.

Branches of the second order begin to form on well-formed branches of the first order, usually in the third year after planting. To do this, pour 50-60 cm from the trunk and cut them off, which makes it possible to obtain branches at a distance of approximately 40-50 cm from the central conductor (10-12 cm area where lateral branches are formed). Depending on the branching ability of the variety, 2-4 strong and several shortened shoots may form below the cut point. Of these, one is selected for the skeletal branch of the second order, and the rest are suppressed in the summer by pinching, pruning in the spring of next year, or bending back. A year later, using the same principle, a second skeletal branch is laid at a distance of 30-40 cm from the first. In one year it is impossible to lay two branches of the second order on one skeletal branch; for this, with good growth, it will take 2 years. In the process of forming a sparsely layered crown of fruit trees, pruning should also be reduced to the minimum necessary to create skeletal branches.

Branches of the second order must be formed due to increments located on the sidesskeletal bitch. If for this purpose a branch is taken from the underside of the main branch, it can subsequently easily break off under the weight of the harvest, since with the load the point of application of force will be at the place where the branches of the first and second orders grow together. If the branch is located on the side, then under the weight of the crop it will bend (spring) and will not break off.

To form second-order branches, it is impossible to select increments located with inside skeletal bitch, as this will lead to strong and unnecessary thickening of the crown. Second order branches in the tree crown should not intertwine. It is advisable to choose them so that the first of them are all located on the right or left side, and the second are also directed in one direction, the opposite.

In order not to create an excessively thickened crown, it is enough to lay two skeletal branches on the branches of the first order. The rest are converted by pruning into semi-skeletal (100-120 cm long) and shortened branches for fruiting.

The formation of a sparsely layered crown of fruit trees usually takes 5-6 years, and with poor care and poor growth, 7 years. Thus, by the beginning of fruiting, the main operations on the formation of fruit trees are completed.

To prevent early thickening of the crown, first of all you should not lay more main branches than is predetermined by the crown formation system.

When pruning trees with high shoot-forming capacity, avoid shortening the branches. The main type of pruning in this case is cutting out entire branches (thinning). When forming crowns on trees characterized by pyramidal growth, cuts should be made above the outer buds or lateral branches oriented towards the periphery of the crown.

It’s even better to first make a cut on the inner bud (twig), and next year - on the outer branch located below the cut made last year. The first, more or less large, branches on the main branches should not be located closer than 50-60 cm from their bases.

Each major branch must have its own development sector. All its branches extending beyond this sector should be cut off to transfer to a branch growing in the right direction (in its sector). In places where there is no space for the growth of new branches, shoots must be broken off. If this has not been done, you need to cut out the thickening branches into a ring or trim them into a weak branch.

Formation of a sparse-tiered crown

The sparsely tiered crown finds the most wide application in all fruit growing zones. It is formed from 5-7 branches of the first order and approximately the same number of branches of the second order.

In the lower part of the crown, two adjacent or close branches are placed, and the third is placed at a distance of 15-30 cm from them; a tier of three close branches is also allowed. Subsequent branches are placed singly around the trunk, if there are five branches in total, or a second tier is created from two branches and another 1-2 branches are placed singly ( rice. 32)

In the south and in middle lane the distance between tiers is set for varieties with a wide crown 60-80 cm, and for vigorous varieties with a raised crown - 80-100 cm. In more severe natural conditions these intervals are reduced to 50-60 cm.

Branches of the second order are laid only on the three lower branches, no more than two on each.

In the spring of the first year, the annual plant is pruned to a height of up to 70 cm; in the summer, shoots below 40 cm are pruned. In the spring of the second year, branches that are not used are cut into a ring to form the crown. The skeletal branches are shortened annually at the same level, while removing 1/3 - 1/5 of the annual growth, and the central conductor is 25 cm above the top of the lateral branches.

The main branches must be subordinate to the conductor. As for the branches of the second order, they should not compete with the branches of the first order, and the lower main branches should be thicker than the upper ones.

You should strive to ensure that the branches of the first tier are equally developed. In the first few years, it is necessary to regulate the development of the main branches by shortening, bending or tightening the drooping ones; move them to the top or bottom direction, to the right or to the left.

You should always strive for minimal pruning, but it is best to use techniques to control the growth and direction of branches, such as bending, bending and warping. The crown is also formed and trees are pruned depending on the characteristics of the group of varieties.

Methods for attaching branches when changing the angle of inclination are shown in the figure ( rice. 30)

Rice. 30. Methods of fastening branches when changing the angle of inclination: 1 - wire staples; 2 - initial position of the branches (dotted line); 3 - spacers; 4 - garter of branches to the trunk; 5 - garter of strongly deviated branches; 6 - garter to the lower branches; 7 - garter to stakes; 8 - garter to the guide rails

It is better to install supports and use fastenings for crowns in advance, but not later than the time when the fruits of the apple tree reach the size walnut or when the branches, under the weight of the fruit, deviate from their original position by 20-30 cm.

The supports can be replaced with an umbrella support: all branches that are in danger of breaking off are tied to a pole 4-5 m high, installed in the middle of the crown, with twine or wire. It is recommended to construct supports in the spring, before flowering.

Formation of overgrowing branches

All branches developing on the main branches of the second order are turned into fruit branches by pinching in summer, as well as by shortening in spring before blossoming. Shoots that have a horizontal direction are not shortened ( rice. 31).

Rice. 3Formation of overgrowing branches (the dashes show the location of pruning depending on the nature of the branching)

Branches shortened by 6-8 buds produce 2-3 shoots, and the following year they are shortened by 5-8 buds.

Within 2-3 years, these branches turn into fruit branches. The inclination of the branches also speeds up the onset of fruiting. To bend 2-3 year old branches, it is best to use the deformation method, that is, bending until the wood cracks.