Matchbox projection drawing how to make. How to build a matchbox drawing. How to make a beautiful matchbox with your own hands

A match is called thin wooden stalk, equipped with an incendiary head on top. The main purpose of this stick is to produce an open fire. Today no person can do without matches. They are used to light gas in the kitchen, make a fire in the forest, light a cigarette, etc. Matches are small in size, and therefore they are usually used in large quantities. It would be extremely inconvenient to store them in bulk. That's why they put them in small boxes. The latter can accommodate several tens, hundreds or even thousands of them. The size of the matchbox, accordingly, may vary. However, there are still certain standards for height, width and length.

A little history

The matches themselves were invented in 1805 by the physicist J. Chancel. For a long time they were sold without a box. Matches at that time were larger in size than now, and they were lit on any hard surface. The first box for storing them supposedly appeared in 1833. Initially, the grater was located inside. It was also not very convenient, of course, that the matches in such boxes sometimes lit spontaneously simply due to friction against each other.

Safety matches began to be produced only in the mid-19th century. in Sweden. They appeared in Russia in the 1880s. Those supplied from were originally very expensive in our country; only wealthy people could use them.

Standard matchbox size

Such products today are most often made from ordinary thick cardboard. There are pocket versions of matchboxes, utility boxes, fireplace boxes, etc. on sale. But most often, of course, the first type of such cardboard products is used.

The standard size of a matchbox is determined by GOST 1820-2001. What exactly should be the dimensions of this product, see the table below.

As you can see, the length of a standard box is not five centimeters, as everyone used to think. This figure is slightly higher. The size of the matchbox in centimeters is 5.05x3.75x1.45. The matches themselves are produced 42.5 mm long and 2.05 mm thick. There should be 45 of them in a box, but in in some cases it is possible to reduce their number to 38. It is interesting that in Soviet times, according to the standards, at least 60 matches should have been packed into boxes of this size.

Label design and ease of use

A matchbox is a regular cardboard parallelepiped, both sides of which are covered with labels. The design of the latter can be anything, but it is not the same. The labels are positioned in such a way that the consumer can immediately understand exactly which way it is turned. inner part boxes. If they had the same design, the matches would be very easy to spill when opening. Most often, logos are depicted on the front labels of modern boxes. different companies, and on back side- their contact details.

What other standards exist?

GOST standards, in addition to different designs labels, when manufacturing matchboxes the following are observed:

    Instead of two, it is allowed to use one label (on the top side).

    The inside of the box should fit tightly into the outside and not fall out when its position changes.

    The flow of the phosphorus float onto the wide side of the box should not exceed 4 mm.

    The label should not extend more than 1 mm onto the narrow part.

    The total area of ​​the phosphorus mass of the grater should ensure free ignition of twice the number of matches in the box.

As for the matches themselves, sparks and burning slag are not allowed to fly off when they are ignited. The head must be at least 2.5 mm long. The presence of sulfur streaks is not allowed. Below we present to your attention a drawing of a matchbox with dimensions (standard).

How to store and transport

Filled matchboxes are packaged in accordance with GOST 13511-91. First, they are wrapped in paper packs of 10 pieces. Then folded into carton boxes. The latter are transported in covered transport in packaged condition. Such products cannot be transported on open platforms. After all, if the matches become wet, they will become unusable. Store matches at a temperature of no more than 40 degrees and a humidity of 85%.

Other sizes

Standard matches are sold in every grocery store and a tobacco kiosk. But sometimes in shopping centers you can see boxes of other sizes. For example, sometimes on sale there is a similar in shape and design to standard option"700" or "500". The size of a matchbox of this variety can be 92x80x46 mm (for 700 pieces) or 52x70x132 (for 500 pieces). Of course, you can’t put such a product in your pocket, but it can be quite convenient for the kitchen.

You can also purchase “Household” matches in very large boxes - 75x225x155 mm or 47x196x130 mm. This option has a slightly different design than the usual one. It does not have a retractable part. It is installed vertically and opens from the top. Such sizes of matchboxes allow 2000 pieces to be placed in them. matches (both).

Matches can be sold not only in boxes, but also in beautiful jars. This option is also good for thrifty housewives. There can be 1100-1500 matches in such jars. Among other things, this option will look very good in the kitchen.

How to make a beautiful matchbox with your own hands

Such a souvenir is perfect as a gift for guests if the celebration is organized, for example, outdoors. Those invited will be able to use it for its intended purpose or take it home with them as a souvenir. It is best if the size of the matchbox, used in this case as a frame, is standard. But you can use any other option. You should also prepare beautiful paper, ribbons and bobby pins (hair clips).

The box is removed and unfolded top part. Applied to paper beautiful inscriptions. You can do them by hand. But it’s better to find a template on the Internet and print it on a printer. Next, the paper is cut to fit the box (2 large walls and 1 small). It should be glued in such a way that 1 grater remains visible. Uneven edges can be trimmed using scissors and a ruler. Next, the box needs to be carefully glued back together. To prevent the paper from coming off, you can use bobby pins. After the glue has dried, you can insert the matchbox itself into the beautiful shell.

To make the souvenir look even more attractive, you should tie it with a beautiful ribbon, making a bow or a rose. Sometimes, instead of matches, a suitable-sized piece of bright toilet soap is placed in such gift boxes. In this case it also turns out very interesting souvenir. What size matchbox to choose in this case is not a very important question. Both a small souvenir with soap and a large one will look beautiful.

Unusual boxes

Of course, if you wish, you can also purchase finished model such an original souvenir. For example, calendar boxes, products divided into two parts (for whole matches and burnt ones) or with holes for candles look very nice. An interesting gift could also be, for example, a wooden box intended for only one match, a cowboy box, etc.

This time, Dear friends, we will start making cardboard packaging for sliced ​​soap. I think this topic will be of interest not only to soap makers who work with soap base, but also to those enthusiasts who make soap from scratch. Although, by and large, even if you have only a consumer attitude towards soap making, do not rush to close the page - the New Year holidays are approaching, and cardboard gift packaging, whatever one may say, it will only “grow in price.” But since I took the measurements for the boxes from soap, we will proceed from this.

It is no secret that most often cut soap is in the form of rectangular (or close to it) shaped bars. Which means rectangular box it will come in handy now. There can be a lot of options for its execution. Some of them will be discussed in a series of publications dedicated to the packaging of cut soap. Let's start with the so-called matchbox. Structurally, such a box is very simple, but not without its own “zest”. To be honest, I am most impressed by it as packaging for cut-out soap.

The soap cast in it produces four pieces 64 mm wide, 90 mm long and about 23 mm thick (if filled completely). Soap of this size fits well into a box with parameters 67x93x25 mm. The template for this matchbox can be downloaded here:

The pdf file contains 2 sets of templates - with dashed lines (for printing on the wrong side of cardboard with already ready-made design) and without them (to impose your own original design in a graphic editor and subsequent printing on the front side of the cardboard).

How to do Matchbox , let's look at the example of set No. 1. I believe that for those of you, friends, who have already gotten the hang of making square boxes, the technology is obvious. But just in case, below is a small photo instruction. As usual, for work we will need:

A printer;

1 sheet of A4 cardboard (I used regular white for children's creativity) ;

Ruler;

Stationery knife;

Creasing tool (written rod from ballpoint pen, knitting needle, nail file, goat leg compass, etc.);

Scissors;

Double sided tape;

The substrate on which we will cut the cardboard (I now use a self-healing mat, which I advise you to do as well).

Matchbox in person:

I tied it with a ribbon matching the color of the soap - it turned out almost festive:

As you may have noticed, in the main photo there is another box (the one with the green bow), which has slightly different dimensions. This is also a package from my arsenal. Perhaps its sizes are not the most popular, but if they suit someone, then download:

Well, and finally – a box specially “customized” for soap “from scratch”. I myself am only dreaming about such soap, but the sizes used are the most realistic. They were suggested to me by one wonderful craftswoman.

Again, I repeat, the scope of application of the proposed templates is by no means limited production of cardboard packaging for soap self made. These types of boxes can become excellent gift packaging, or they can become an original gift, for example, a box for storing small items. The main thing here is to show your imagination and decorate it appropriately. But about this and about how to use the templates from kit No. 2 (there are little secrets), we'll talk later.

It happens that one of us finds ourselves in a dead end, when it is necessary not to show maximum imagination, but to do simple calculations for making a simple box. There are plenty of master classes on the Internet, and diagrams and diagrams are freely available... But among them there is not the right box, exactly the one you need. Stop panicking! There is no reason to be upset. Let's help ourselves.

I warn you right away that this master class is very boring. It will be useful only to those who periodically have a need for a certain box of a certain size. It is clear that there are a great many variations in the shapes and designs of packaging boxes; it is impossible to cover everything in one master class. Let's look at the classic option: a box with a removable lid. And we will have cardboard not fat!

So, what can affect the box making process? It is clear that a lot depends on the cardboard: both the thickness and dimensions of the sheet are important. I’ll say right away, even if the cardboard doesn’t seem too thick to you, you can’t ignore its thickness: millimeter to millimeter - and an obvious distortion can result.

So how do you calculate sizes? (The brave ones draw them right away, but I like to do the calculations on a rough draft - so as not to forget anything!) For convenience, I personally use a squared notebook sheet. It is not necessary to draw in full size: it is enough to approximately adhere to the ratio of sizes. Draw the bottom of the box: Which one do you need - square or rectangular? Now let's figure it out optimal height walls - the one that you need. Drew it. Don't forget about the method of attaching the walls: we'll use the simplest one - in a circle. This means that you need to make small cuts - one on each side of the workpiece (in the second diagram these cut lines are indicated in red). Bend the workpiece, coat the “ears” - allowances for gluing - with glue, fold it over and assemble the box. That's all. Just remember that this method is suitable if the height is not greater than the length and width of the box!



Now, to consolidate it in our consciousness, let’s vary the sizes. For example, the length of the box is 20 cm, let’s say the width is 10, and the height is 15 cm. We calculate: 15 + 20 +15 = 50 cm (this is the length of the development), and 15 + 10 +15 = 40 cm (this is the width of the development ).

If you need a box with a square bottom, then the scan will be square. For example: the size of the bottom of the box should be 20 x 20 cm, and the height should be 15 cm. It is easy to calculate: 15 + 20 + 15 = 50 - which means that to construct a scan you need a square of 50 x 50 cm

You can also make a slightly different version of the development: on two opposite sides there are two pairs of “ears” for fastening. (You can leave the “ears” as squares, or you can round them)



Noticed that what bigger size is a box necessary, the less likely it is to “fit” the scan into a solid standard sheet? What to do? Compose from individual parts!

For example, the scan “fits” in one direction, but does not fit in the other. So, we glue two sides. Just don’t forget about the “increase” to connect the parts! It is enough to make 1.5-2 cm per addition - everything will stick perfectly.


And if the box is so large that you can’t even fit the sides in one direction, then you can glue all the sides + the bottom. In addition, this method is suitable not only for large boxes: you can also glue small ones if, for example, it is planned that all sides will be multi-colored.

The calculations in this case are also extremely simple. Bottom (green part in the photo): let there be a square of 20 x 20 cm and another increase of 1.5 cm on each side. It turns out 1.5 + 20 + 1.5 = 23 cm (Small squares obtained in the corners should be just cut it out so that it doesn’t interfere with folding the extensions up for assembly.

Let's assume that the height of the box should be 40 cm! This means that the two opposite walls of the box will have dimensions of 1.5 + 20 + 1.5 cm - this is the width, and the height is 40 cm (blue parts in the photo). And the other two opposite sides they no longer need an increase: we draw out two parts 20 x 40 cm (red parts in the photo)


There are cases when only this method is suitable - gluing in parts. For example, if very thick and dense cardboard is used. In this case, even an increase is not needed: the glue is applied to the thickness of the workpieces. There, when carrying out calculations, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cardboard very carefully!

It’s not at all difficult to calculate the lid for our box: again we draw a square or rectangle with dimensions like the bottom of the box, but be sure to add double the thickness of the cardboard. Be careful here: a lot depends on the method of gluing the lid. If you plan to bend the “ears” inward, then the increase will be larger. In my classes, I recommend that students glue the “ears” outside. We simply give them a neat shape (ovals, for example) and glue them on the outside. It looks quite decorative.

The master class has come to an end! To some, the material presented here may seem primitive, however, do not rush to criticize - I quite often in practice come across situations where it is difficult for people to imagine how to flat sheet fold a three-dimensional structure, having previously calculated its dimensions. Therefore, I propose to consider this information as auxiliary. If anyone is having trouble making a specific size box, I hope the techniques shown here help solve it!

This time, dear friends, we will start making cardboard packaging for sliced ​​soap. I think this topic will be of interest not only to soap makers who work with soap base, but also to those enthusiasts who make soap from scratch. Although, by and large, even if you have only a consumer attitude towards soap making, do not rush to close the page - the New Year holidays are approaching, and gift wrapping made of cardboard, whatever one may say, will only “grow in price.” But since I took measurements for the boxes from soap, we will proceed from this.

It is no secret that most often cut soap is in the form of rectangular (or close to it) shaped bars. This means that a rectangular box will come in handy now. There can be a lot of options for its execution. Some of them will be discussed in a series of publications dedicated to the packaging of cut soap. Let's start with the so-called matchbox. Structurally, such a box is very simple, but not without its own “zest”. To be honest, I like it most as a packaging for cut soap.

Now about the sizes. The basic samples for me were pieces of soap obtained from a silicone mold like this:

The soap cast in it produces four pieces 64 mm wide, 90 mm long and about 23 mm thick (if filled completely). Soap of this size fits well into a box with parameters 67x93x25 mm. The template for this matchbox can be downloaded here:

The pdf file contains 2 sets of templates - with dashed lines (for printing on the back side of cardboard with a ready-made design) and without them (for applying your own original design in a graphics editor and then printing on the front side of the cardboard).

How to make a matchbox, let's look at the example of set No. 1. I believe that for those of you, friends, who have already gotten the hang of making square boxes, the technology is obvious. But just in case, below is a small photo instruction. As usual, for work we will need:

- Printer;

- 1 sheet of A4 cardboard (I used regular white for children's creativity);

- ruler;

- stationery knife;

— a tool for scoring (a ballpoint pen with writing on it, a knitting needle, a nail file, a goat’s leg compass, etc.);

- scissors;

- double sided tape;

- a substrate on which we will cut cardboard (I now use a self-healing mat, which I advise you to do).



Matchbox in person:

I tied it with a ribbon matching the color of the soap - it turned out almost festive:

As you may have noticed, in the main photo there is another box (the one with the green bow), which has slightly different dimensions. This is also a package from my arsenal. Perhaps its sizes are not the most popular, but if they suit someone, then download:

Well, and finally - a box specially “customized” for soap “from scratch”. I myself am only dreaming about such soap, but the sizes used are the most realistic. They were suggested to me by one wonderful craftswoman.

Again, I repeat, the scope of application of the proposed templates is by no means limited production of cardboard packaging for handmade soap. This type of box can be an excellent gift wrapping, or it can become an original gift itself, for example, a box for storing small items. The main thing here is to show your imagination and decorate it appropriately. But we’ll talk about this and how to use the templates from set No. 2 (there are little secrets there).

Thank you for attention!

See you again in KARTONKINO!

5.1. View placement rules. To fully identify the shape of objects in drawing, they use various images: types, sections, sections. First you will study the species.

View- This is an image of the visible part of the surface of an object facing the observer. To reduce the number of images, it is allowed to show in views the necessary invisible parts of the surface of an object using dashed lines. And Difference from projections in views, some conventions and simplifications are used. You will study them later.

The image obtained on the frontal plane of projections is called front view. This image is taken in the drawing as The main thing. Therefore, this type is also called the main one. When making a drawing, the object must be positioned in such a way relative to the frontal plane of projections that main view gave the most complete idea of ​​the shape and size of the object.

Image on horizontal plane projections are called top view.

The image on the profile plane of projections is called left view.

Along with front, top and left views, right, bottom, and rear views can be used to depict an object (all of them are called main). However, the number of views in the drawing should be the smallest, but sufficient to fully identify the shape and size of the object. To reduce the number of views on them, it is allowed to show, if necessary, invisible parts of the surface of the object with dashed lines. For the same purpose, various symbols, signs and inscriptions established by the standard.

Rice. 52. Three types of parts

Figure 52 shows three views of the part, a visual representation of which is shown in Figure 53. The main view is the front view. Below it is a top view, to the right of the main view and at the same height - a view to the left. Cutout in detail rectangular shape turned out to be invisible in the top view, so it is shown as a dashed line.

Rice. 53. Visual representation of the part

5.2. Local species. In some cases, instead of the full view, you can use part of it in the drawing. This simplifies the construction of an image of an object.

The image of a separate, limited place on the surface of an object is called local species. It is used in that case. when you need to show the shape and dimensions of individual elements of a part (flange, keyway, etc.).

The local view can be limited by a cliff line, an axis of symmetry, etc. It can be marked on the drawing and with an inscription. The local view is placed on a free field of the drawing or in projection connection with other images. At school you will consider local species located only in projection connection (Fig. 54).

Rice. 54. Local views located in projection connection

Application local species allows you to reduce the volume graphic work, save space on the drawing field.

  1. Define the species.
  2. How are the views arranged in the drawing?
  3. Which species is called the main one and why?
  4. Which species is called local? For what purpose is it used? What are the benefits of using a local species?

Rice. 56. Exercise task

Draw the data in Figure 56 and the drawings into your workbook and supplement them with an image of the second box.

Directions for use. If you find it difficult to solve a problem, make models from boxes, as shown in Figure 56, and compare your drawings of the models with theirs. visual images. Make your own one or two more models from two or three matchboxes and complete their drawings.

Practical work No. 3
Modeling according to drawing


Rice. 58. Tasks for practical work № 3

Directions for use. Modeling is the process of making a model of an object according to a drawing. You have already done this in labor lessons. Before you start modeling, you need to prepare required material: cardboard, wire.

To make a cardboard model, first cut out its blank. Determine the dimensions of the workpiece from the image of the part (see Fig. 58). Mark (outline) the cutouts. Cut them along the outlined contour. Remove the cut out parts and bend the model according to the drawing. To prevent the cardboard from straightening after bending, draw lines on the outside of the bend with some sharp object.

The wire for modeling must be soft and of arbitrary length.



 
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