Axial generator. Do-it-yourself Belashov low-speed generator. How to make a perpetual motion machine
Hello, people often write to me about how best to make an axial disk generator, how many magnets there should be and how many coils. They ask what wire the coils should be wound with and how many turns. They ask about the ratio of magnets to coils, and how to connect the coils to each other. I will try to answer these questions, accompanying them with drawings...
General rules for constructing an axial generator
1. The distance between the magnets in a circle on the disks should be equal to their width, but the denser the better, ideally if the magnets are almost close to each other. Below I described in more detail, if you can’t decide, make the distance equal to the width of the magnets, it will work like everyone else.2. Round magnets, square or rectangular, it doesn’t really matter, this will then be reflected in the shape of the coils. For the first option, round magnets and coils are simpler.
3.The thickness of the disks should be equal to the thickness of the magnets, or slightly thinner.
4. The number of turns in the coils for a 12V battery is 60 turns, for a 24V VCB is 90 turns.
5. Thickness of the stator according to the thickness of the magnets.
6. The ratio of coils to magnets is 4:3, for 9 coils there are 12 magnets, for 12 coils there are 16 magnets.
Single-phase generators are not made because there will be strong vibration of the generator during operation.
The magnets must be at least 10 mm thick, although it can be thinner, but then you will have to make a thin stator; in general, the stator should be approximately equal to the thickness of the magnets. The shape of the magnets, whether they are round, square, or rectangular, is not particularly important, then this will affect the shape of the coils, whether they will be exactly round or triangular in elongated shape. For large and powerful generators from 1.5 kW, magnets can be installed with a thickness of 15-20 mm, and a thicker and more durable stator can be made with a thickness of 15-20 mm.
Usually the distance between magnets is made equal to their width, but what larger area Filling the disks with magnets in a circle is all the better. The closer the distance between magnets, the better. But if you make the distance between the magnets equal to the width of the magnets themselves, or half the width of the magnets, then it will also work fine. Due to the increase in the diameter of the disks, the speed of the magnets per revolution increases, and the voltage of the coils increases in proportion to the increase in the speed of movement of the magnets.
But those turns of coils that work are those that fall under the magnets, so the rarer the magnets on the disk, the fewer turns of coils take part in the work, and here the gain is only in diameter, but it turns out to be a big scratch and a lot of copper is wasted. if you place the magnets close to each other, the diameter of the disks becomes smaller, there are more turns in the work, and there is less copper. This is generally more effective.
I usually make the distance between the magnets equal to their width, but those who made the arrangement of the magnets denser, and even closely with smaller diameters and sizes of generators, received the same result. It's up to you to decide what to do here.
For a circuit of 9 coils with 12 magnets Round magnets are suitable, and it is better to place them on the disk almost close to each other. The inner diameter of round coils can be made smaller than the diameter of the magnet.
For 12 coils with 16 magnets You can also make round coils and install round or better square magnets. The closer the distance between magnets, the better. And so, depending on the size, you can make a distance of about 5-10 mm between the magnets; if they are square, then in the narrowest place there should be such a distance.
For 18 coils with 12 magnets It is better to use rectangular magnets with a distance equal to their width. In this case, the inner hole of the coil should be almost equal to the size of the magnet. If 24 magnets are placed on disks, the distance between the magnets will be close.
Below is a drawing to compare how much the coils overlap with magnets if the magnets are placed almost closely and with a distance between the magnets equal to their width.
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There is also the same option for covering stator magnets with 18 coils and 12 coils.
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The phase coils are connected like this: The beginning of the first coil is the beginning of the phase. The end of the first coil is connected to the beginning of the second. The end of the second with the beginning of the third. The end of the third to the output if you have three coils per phase is the end of the phase. The second and third phases are connected in the same way as the first. There should be a total of six wires at the output, two leads from each phase. Then you can connect it with a star; for this, the three ends of the phases or the three beginnings of the phases are connected to one point, and the three free ends are already connected to a three-phase diode bridge. Below is a drawing of one phase connection.
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It is better not to connect the generator phases with a star at once, but to remove all the ends of the phases from the stator, so that later they can be connected in different ways. It may be that with your propeller the generator will work better when parallel connection phases
There are two options for the design of the generator itself
The first option is the most common, the disks here spin on a shaft, and the stator is larger in diameter and is secured with studs on the outer side, i.e. the outer diameter. Usually, for manufacturing, a car hub is taken as a basis and a generator is built on its basis. The second option is when the stator is mounted internal diameter for a fixed shaft. And the disk with the bearing is put on this shaft, and with reverse side the second disk is attracted to it.
Wind generator based on a homemade axial disk generator. I built it a couple of years ago.
The design of this generator is the first thing you find on the network of practical models of wind turbines. In a narrow circle we call them bourgeois. It was they who began to use this generator layout, due to the availability of rare earth magnets. Now in our country this model is repeated quite often.
At first glance, this is the most affordable design. This is partly true, but the efficiency of iron-free stators is much lower than those with iron. For such generators, magnets are needed thicker, and the quantity is twice as large. So, more about the essence of the project.
The generator has 16 pairs of poles. The magnets used were neodymium disk. Diameter 27 mm, height 8 mm. Very serious stuff. Serious injury may occur if handled carelessly! 12 coils were used. Three-phase generator. Star connection.
To wind the coils, 0.9 mm wire was used, although the calculation was made for 1.06 mm wire. But he was not there at that time. For this reason, there is empty space between the coils, and the generator has not reached its design parameters. I wound the coils on a homemade machine. Nothing special.
The design can be absolutely anything. 
For the stator, a plywood mold was made. 
After treating the mold with Vaseline (necessary so that the cast stator can be easily removed from the mold), I positioned the coils.
Soldered accordingly. 
I diluted epoxy resin with the addition of 30% talc (baby powder). I put fiberglass mesh on the bottom of the mold and on top of the coils, since it is more convenient for me to work with it than with fiberglass. I poured the stator, gradually adding resin so that air bubbles came out.
In order to tighten the cover, I marked it so that the screws would pass through the hole in the coil (so as not to damage it). I covered the coil hole with plasticine (removed it after drying) for better cooling.
The next day, I removed the finished stator from the mold without any problems. It turned out smooth and beautiful.
To make the rotor, I took the rear hub assembly from a VAZ 2108. It's not expensive and quite powerful. At the car service they gave me brake discs, again from eight (nine). Discs diameter 240 mm. thickness 10 mm. Having polished work surface, glued magnets. I glued it with superglue and then filled it in epoxy resin.
I welded the wind head and attached the generator to it. The tail is rigidly fixed, that is, storm protection is not performed.
Blades from PVC pipes diameter 160 mm. I made both a three-bladed version and a five-bladed one. Both options worked fine.
Some conclusions.
Charging the battery begins almost as soon as it starts to rotate (and it rotates from any blow). 1-2 amps from a light breeze, with small gusts 4-5 amps. With normal winds around 10 A.
Conclusion: the goal has been achieved (charging the battery in light winds).
In strong winds I recorded 20 A, more device doesn't show.
This model has now been dismantled. Upon inspection, no damage was found, although everything was not even painted.
I plan to do some experiments with it.
Well, here are the actual bullying that I was talking about.
I want to check one more option. Use annealed iron filings instead of ets in the generator stator.
The sawdust is neither small nor large.
Since everything was done under very limited time conditions, and the temperature was 10, no matter how it contributed to the feat of labor, the results were appropriate. Again, a ready-made stator was used, which was not intended for this. However, everything is in order. The photo shows the whole process. I mixed sawdust not with epoxy, but with silicone sealant.
The result was a plastic mass that was easy to work with.
And a test table for this option. 
I think this option, carried out according to all the rules, will give a completely working option.
How to make a low-speed generator for a windmill from neodymium magnets. Homemade generator for a windmill, diagrams, photos, videos.
For making homemade windmill First of all, a generator is required, and a low-speed one is preferable. This is the main problem; finding such a generator is quite difficult. The first thing that comes to mind is to take a standard car generator, but that’s all car generators designed for high speeds, battery charging starts at 1000 rpm. If you install a self-generator on a windmill, it will be difficult to achieve such speeds; you will need to make an additional pulley with a belt or chain drive, all this complicates and makes the design heavier.
A windmill requires a low-speed generator, best option generator axial type on neodymium magnets. Since there are no such generators affordable price There are practically no commercially available ones; you can make an axial generator yourself.
In this case, the stator will be a disk with coils, the rotor will be two disks with permanent magnets. When the rotor rotates, the current that we need to charge the batteries will be generated in the stator coils.
Homemade generator: making a stator.
The stator - the stationary part of the generator consists of coils that are placed opposite the rotor magnets. Inner size coils are usually equal to the outer size of the magnets that are used in the rotor.
A simple device can be made for winding coils.
Thickness copper wire for coils of approximately 0.7 mm, the number of turns in the coils must be counted individually, the total number of turns in all coils must be at least 1200.
The coils are placed on the stator; the coil terminals can be connected in two ways, depending on how many phases the generator will have.
A three-phase generator will be more efficient for a wind generator, so it is recommended to connect the coils in a star type.
To fix the coils to the stator, they are filled with epoxy resin. To do this, you need to make a mold for pouring from a piece of plywood, so that the liquid resin does not spread, you need to make the sides from plasticine or a similar material. At this stage, it is necessary to provide lugs for attaching the stator.
It is important to get a perfectly flat plane, so before pouring the matrix with coils must be installed on a flat surface. Before pouring, the coils must be carefully checked with a multimeter and placed on the matrix in a circle in such a way that the rotor magnets are then opposite the coils.
Liquid epoxy resin is poured into the matrix to the level of the edge of the coils; before pouring, the mold must be lubricated with Vaseline.
When the resin has completely hardened, we disassemble the matrix and remove the finished stator with coils.
The stator is fixed to the generator housing using bolts or studs with nuts.
In this design, the rotor will be double-sided, the stator with coils will be in the middle between the rotating disks with magnets.
On each hub disk, magnets must be placed in a circle, alternating the poles in sequence.
When the rotor disks are installed, the magnets should be directed towards each other with different poles.
The magnets need to be glued to the disks with superglue and filled with epoxy resin, upper part magnets should remain uncovered.
Making a rotor for a homemade video generator.
To secure the stator to the wind generator, you need to make a metal base, the stator is attached to it using bolts or studs.
We assemble the entire structure, while you need to leave a minimum gap between the stator and the rotor; the smaller the gap, the more efficient the generator will generate energy. A diode bridge must be connected to the output of the coils.
As a result, you will get an axial generator using neodymium magnets. A homemade generator can operate at low speeds and still generate enough energy to charge batteries, which is important when installing a wind generator in areas where weak winds prevail.
Windmill generator video.
Homemade generator for a 2.5 kW windmill video.
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Homemade windmill with generator. Of interest is mainly the type of generator. This design is very common and simple, however, it has not yet been presented on our website.
Author Burlaka Viktor Afanasyevich.
I did a photo shoot of my little windmill or, as I call it, a working model. Since I built it unexpectedly for myself, I just decided to practice and find out what would happen. At first I didn’t photograph anything, I didn’t think that they might be interested in it, the photo shoot turned out in the reverse order, i.e. deduction - from the whole to the parts.
And now a little history, and everything in order:
Building a wind turbine has been my long-time dream, but there were many obstacles. He lived in a city apartment, but there was no dacha. Then moving from one city to another, then to a third. I have been living in Svetlovodsk for the last 18 years. All the conditions are here - private cottage for two families, 5 acres of vegetable garden and the same amount of garden. To the east and south there is open terrain, to the north and west the terrain is higher than mine. The winds are not kind, i.e. not very strong. Well, I think I'll build a windmill here for the soul.
But when I got serious, it turned out to be not so simple. I did not find any suitable literature. For a long time I couldn’t decide on a generator; I didn’t know how to make the blades correctly, what gearbox to use, how to protect it from a hurricane, etc. As they say, it was stewed in its own juice. But I knew that if I really wanted it, everything would work out.
I slowly made the mast. Using ferrous metal, I selected suitable pieces of pipe, starting with a diameter of 325 mm and 1.5 m long (to fit in the trunk of my car). In exchange, he sold scrap metal. The result was a mast 12m long. I brought a defective one for the foundation foundation block from high voltage support. I buried it 2 meters into the ground and 1 meter remained above the ground. Then I scalded it with two belts from the corner and welded brackets to them. At the ends of the brackets to anchor bolts welded “plates” of 16mm iron measuring 50 x 50 cm, connected to each other by powerful loops. I bought soft 10 mm cables and turnbuckles on the market, everything is anodized and does not rust. I welded and buried an anchor under the removable winch. The winch also had to be made homemade, using a ready-made worm gearbox. In addition, I installed a U-shaped support about 2 m high, on which the mast should rest. Since there was nowhere to rush, the mast was made without haste and therefore, in my opinion, it turned out beautiful and reliable.
And then God, seeing my work, blessed me to go to the forum http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=48:4219-74#1829. I re-read it all, registered, and began to gain experience. I started remaking a self-generator, and when I translated from English “overseas” sites (Hugh Pigot and others) on building end-mounted generators without iron in the coils, I really wanted to try and do it myself, at least in miniature.
General view of the windmill
Generator
Generator, side view.
Wire output.
Blades, housing and disassembled generator.
I decided to build a working smaller model that would deliver up to 1 amp per 12-volt battery.
To make the rotor, I bought 24 pieces in Znamenka at the Acoustics company. neodymium disk magnet 20*5 mm. I found a hub from a walk-behind tractor wheel, the turner, according to my drawings, turned two steel disks with a diameter of 105 mm and a thickness of 5 mm, a spacer sleeve with a thickness of 15 mm, and a shaft. I glued magnets, 12 each for each, and filled them halfway with epoxy, alternating their polarity.
To make the stator, I wound 12 coils of enamel wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm, 60 turns per coil (I took the wire from the demagnetization loop of an old unusable color picture tube, there is enough of it). I soldered the coils in series, end to end, beginning to beginning, etc. ( Here I “didn’t understand”, if it’s possible to connect everything in series to get one phase? It is advisable to check during manufacture. Editor's note) It turned out to be one phase (I was afraid that there would be too little voltage). I cut out a shape from 4 mm plywood and rubbed it with wax.
It's a pity that the complete form has not been preserved. I put wax paper on the bottom base (I stole it from my wife in the kitchen, she bakes on it), and placed a mold on it with a round piece in the center. Then I cut out two circles from fiberglass. One laid on wax paper the bottom base of the mold. I laid out the coils soldered together on it. Conclusions from stranded insulated wire laid it in shallow grooves cut with a hacksaw. I filled it all with epoxy. I waited about an hour for the air bubbles to all come out and the epoxy to spread evenly throughout the entire mold and saturate the coils, top up where needed, and cover with a second circle of fiberglass. Place a second sheet of wax paper on top and press it with the top base (a piece of chipboard). The main thing is that both bases are strictly flat. In the morning I disconnected the mold and removed a beautiful transparent stator 4mm thick.
It’s a pity that epoxy is not suitable for a more powerful windmill, because... afraid high temperature.
I inserted 2 bearings into the hub, a shaft with a key in them, the first rotor disk with magnets glued and half filled with epoxy, then a spacer sleeve 15mm thick. The thickness of the stator with filled coils is 4mm, the thickness of the magnets is 5mm, a total of 5+4+5=14mm. On the rotor disks, 0.5 mm edges are left on the edges so that the magnets rest against centrifugal force (just in case). Therefore, we will subtract 1mm. 13mm left. There is 1mm left for the gaps. Therefore the spacer is 15mm. Then the stator (a transparent disk with coils), which is attached to the hub with three 5 mm copper bolts, they can be seen in the photo. Then a second rotor disk is installed, which rests on the spacer sleeve. You need to be careful not to get your finger caught under the magnets - they get pinched very painfully. (Opposite magnets on the disks must have different polarities, i.e. attract.)
Sketch of a wind turbine.
The gaps between the magnets and the stator are adjusted by copper nuts placed on copper bolts on both sides of the hub.
A propeller is placed on the remaining protruding part of the shaft with a key, which is pressed against the rotor through a washer (and, if necessary, a bushing) and a propeller. It is advisable to cover the nut with a fairing (I never made one).
But I made a canopy roof over the rotor and stator by sawing an aluminum pan so as to cover part of the bottom and part of the side wall.
The propeller was made from a meter-long piece of duralumin irrigation pipe with a diameter of 220 mm and a wall thickness of 2.5 mm.
I simply drew a two-bladed propeller on it and cut it out with a jigsaw. (From the same piece I also cut out three blades 1 m long for a windmill on a self-generator, and as you can see, there are still some left). I rounded the leading edge of the blades “by eye” with a radius equal to half the thickness of the duralumin, and sharpened the rear edge with a chamfer of approximately 1 cm at the ends and up to 3 cm towards the center.
In the center of the propeller, I first drilled a hole with a 1mm drill for balancing. You can balance it directly on the drill, placing the drill on the table, or hang it on a thread from the ceiling. You need to balance very carefully. I balanced the rotor discs and the propeller separately. After all, the speed reaches 1500 rpm.
Since there is no magnetic sticking, the propeller rotates happily from the slightest breeze, which you can’t even feel on the ground. During operating wind it develops high speeds, I have a 2A direct-connection ammeter, so it often goes off scale with a 12 volt old car battery. True, at the same time the tail begins to fold and rise upward, i.e. automatic protection against strong wind and excessive speed is activated.
The protection is made on the basis of the inclined axis of rotation of the tail.
The axis deviation is 18-20 degrees from the vertical. I apologize for the drawing, I tried to copy it from an overseas site http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_wind.html
This windmill worked for me for 3 months. I took it off and disassembled it - the bearings are fine, the stator is also intact. The magnets are a little rusty in places where the paint did not get on. The cable goes directly without a current collector. I have it made, but I changed my mind about installing it. When I dismantled the small windmill, it was not twisted. So I was convinced that it is not needed, only extra hassle. It produced up to 30 watts of power. Propeller noise when closed windows inaudible. And when open, it’s not very audible; if you’re sleeping soundly, it won’t wake you up, especially against the background of the noise of the wind itself.
There is a desire to make a large one using the same scheme, although the stator needs to be made differently, not using epoxy. I'm thinking about this now. In the meantime, during these three months, I built a windmill using a three-bladed self-generator with a diameter of 2.2 m and a power of about 400 watts. About him in the next article.
In our age of computer technology and high technology, many have begun to think about alternative sources energy - after all, the riches of the earth’s interior are not limitless. The idea of using motion energy air masses as such a source is far from new, but only in our time begins to acquire more obvious (from the point of view practical use) outlines. Now, thanks to the use of new technologies and construction materials, it has even become possible to purchase (or manufacture) such installations for use by private individuals - for a wind turbine installed for a house on the territory of a neighboring summer cottage Crowds of onlookers no longer come to stare - such a sight is beginning to become almost commonplace.
Some components and assemblies of wind turbines have changed radically. If used to be a generator The windmill was a standard design with brush or ring current collectors, which were quite noisy during operation (so installing such a unit in the residential sector was considered impossible), but now, with the advent of heavy-duty neodymium magnets,
which lose only about 1 percent of their power over 10 years, has become possible production one- or three-phase generators operating almost silently and with minimal wind loads (0.5-2.5 m/s). Serious innovations have also appeared in the field of wind wheel design. If previously the design of a wind generator with a parallel (relative to the Earth) arrangement of the axis of rotation was widely used,
Nowadays, designs using an axial vertical windmill are becoming increasingly popular.
The use of this design is due to several factors: the blades of a wind wheel with a horizontal axis of rotation, directed towards the air flow and cutting it, create high level noise (about 70, and in some cases more, decibels); to “start” a generator equipped with such a wind wheel, a fairly strong air flow is required - about 8-10 m/s (try to find an area on the planet where the wind would constantly blow at such a speed!), as a result - the use of tall masts to locate such structures; to install the wind wheel “downwind”, the use of special “steering” mechanisms is required; In addition, a braking system is needed in case of strong winds. The design of an axial wind generator with a vertical axis of rotation does not have all these disadvantages (see photo). The structure does not need to be raised high above the ground - 1-4 meters is enough (for a 1.5 kW generator); the height of the wind wheel blade is approximately 1 meter (versus 3 for a generator of the same power, but with horizontal arrangement screw axis); To rotate such a unit, at which it is capable of delivering sufficient power to the load, a light breeze (1.5 m/s) is enough. All these factors are a reliable prerequisite for purchasing or independently manufacturing such wind turbines for your home.
The resulting energy can be easily used for household purposes directly (using an inverter) and stored (batteries). The power (number) of wind turbines and batteries can be calculated using simple formulas: Wtotal = Wload * (1.3 or 1.5) - this value depends on the “wind resources” of your area. The number of required batteries can also be approximately calculated by multiplying the power consumption (W) you need per day by the number of windless days. In addition, home heating schemes using wind generators have appeared in the practice of home-made workers, where the load is low-voltage heaters (heating elements) immersed in an energy-intensive coolant. The use of hybrid alternative energy supply schemes, with the combined use of wind generators and solar panels, is also considered advisable - see our announcement article “Solar batteries”. In conclusion, I would like to make a small but very important remark: when self-production wind generators, follow safety rules when working with powerful neodymium magnets - a damaged TV, a deformed refrigerator door or your favorite car is not the worst thing. Much worse are the crushed bones of the fingers, sandwiched between two magnets or pierced by sharp metal tools hands - it’s not very pleasant when a knife lying on a workbench suddenly takes off and from a distance of half a meter sticks into your hand, which contains a magnet. Do not heat or apply strong shock loads to magnets - heating (as a result of processing) leads to loss of magnetic properties, and strong heating leads to ignition, releasing toxic substances. What, did we scare you? Don’t be sad - following all the above rules will allow you to avoid injuries and damage to property, and the unit manufactured for your home will delight you with its trouble-free operation! Author of the article: Elektrodych.
