Formation of shrubs. Rules for pruning and shaping shrubs. Plants for prickly fences

Everything about pruning and grafting trees and shrubs Gorbunov Viktor Vladimirovich

Formation and pruning of ornamental shrubs

Ornamental shrubs with their abundant flowering, wonderful foliage or graceful needles play a big role in decorating a garden of any style.

Some novice gardeners mistakenly believe that ornamental shrubs do not require special care after planting in the garden, and they do not need pruning at all. However, it is not. All ornamental shrubs require timely and correct pruning aimed at removing dead and damaged shoots, restraining rapid growth and forming a beautiful crown (by cutting and thinning), stimulating flowering, as well as rejuvenating old bushes.

The main task of pruning ornamental shrubs is to achieve the maximum decorative effect, for which these plants are grown in the garden.

Types of ornamental shrubs

The range of ornamental shrubs is very diverse, and therefore different pruning techniques are used, depending on the characteristics of their species. Therefore, before you start forming the crown, you should decide which group according to the type of pruning this shrub belongs to.

Conventionally, all types of shrubs can be divided into beautifully flowering (this can also include shrubs with beautiful fruits: cotoneaster, barberry, etc.) and decorative deciduous.

Beautiful flowering shrubs They are grown for their magnificent flowers, so the main purpose of pruning them is to achieve abundant blooms.

According to the characteristics of pruning, beautiful flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.

First group includes shrubs that do not form powerful replacement shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths of these shrubs appear along the perimeter of the crown. Most common on garden plots common viburnum, varietal lilac, cotoneaster, common barberry, mackerel, serviceberry, magnolia (star and Sulanja), Japanese quince (chaenomeles), Syrian hibiscus and many others.

Ornamental shrubs of the first group require minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the plant’s skeleton from strong branches. To do this, in early spring (during the dormant period), all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots that spoil the appearance of the plant are removed.

Pruning of adult bushes can be limited to the removal of dried, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some living shoots are also removed or pruned in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative look bushes

Second group includes shrubs that bloom on last year's shoots (on last year's branch growths). Such shrubs include, for example, weigela, deutzia, large-leaved hydrangea, tamarix (comber), kerria japonica, colquitia, stephanandra, forsythia, mock orange, three-lobed almond, some types of spirea (mainly early flowering ones - spirea Wangutta, Thunberg, sharp-toothed, Nippon , oakleaf) and others.

Shrubs in this group usually bloom in spring or early summer. Given the rapid growth of these plants, their seedlings should be planted in the garden no older than two to three years of age.

Planted plants are not pruned much - they are limited to removing weak and damaged branches, as well as gentle pruning (a few centimeters) of skeletal branches to a strong bud. Immediately after flowering, the faded branches of these shrubs are pruned, leaving strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed.

And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Trim faded branches, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush to your taste. You should also regularly trim down to the ground a fourth or fifth of old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the appearance of young, powerful shoots from the base of the bush.

It should be noted that pruning many shrubs included in the second group has its own nuances. For example, in Kerria japonica, faded branches should be pruned to the ground or to strong young shoots. Three-lobed almonds should also be pruned quite heavily after flowering.

Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is pruned purely “cosmetically” - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only part of the old stems are removed in order to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots. At the same time, it is advisable not to trim even faded hydrangea inflorescences from the bush, since in winter they provide certain protection to the growths and flower buds from damage by frost. Therefore, it is better to remove faded hydrangea inflorescences in early spring.

Third group includes shrubs that bloom on the current year's shoots. Among the common plant species, this group, for example, includes species and forms of spirea that bloom profusely in summer (spirea Boumalda, Japanese, Douglas, willow), as well as David's budley, tree and paniculate hydrangeas.

In early spring, mature shrubs of this group are heavily pruned so that they develop powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. If this is not done, the plants will quickly thicken and take on a neglected appearance. At the same time, without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases.

It should be especially emphasized here that in the first year after planting, young 2-3-year-old seedlings of these shrubs are not pruned as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system).

After rooting and formation of a young plant, shrubs of this group are subsequently pruned annually and heavily in early spring. In this case, all last year's growth of shoots is pruned to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem.

If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative appearance of the bush.

This group includes types and forms of ornamental shrubs with original foliage: the white-edged form of white sage, the golden form of black elderberry and Boumald's spirea, Thunberg's barberry, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, scumpia, bladderwort (Spiraea viburnum) and other plants.

Decorative deciduous shrubs It is necessary to prune annually in early spring, and prune quite heavily. This is done in order to cause active growth of young shoots and their leaves achieve the maximum decorative effect, and the appearance of the bushes remains neat.

You should always remember that proper pruning is only one of the components of a multifactorial technology for growing ornamental shrubs. Even if their pruning is done correctly, however, if the location in the garden is incorrectly chosen, if planted incorrectly, without timely and regular care (watering, fertilizing, removing weeds and mulching the soil, controlling pests and diseases, protecting heat-loving plants for the winter), they will never the desired result will be obtained.

The impeccable appearance and abundant flowering of ornamental shrubs are achievable only by studying and providing for their needs. Take care of the plants in your garden - only then will they be healthy and beautiful.

Features of pruning ornamental shrubs

Shrub pruning is carried out in order to preserve and improve decorativeness, increase the number of flowers or fruits, improve the health of bushes and regulate their growth and size, increase or decrease the leaf surface of crowns, create artificial forms and maintain their size and configuration.

To save good growth and the decorative appearance of shrubs using pruning, it is necessary to know their biology, since the growth, aging and durability of shoots are directly related to the practical tasks of pruning.

Pruning free-growing shrubs.Full cycle stem development includes progressive growth, branching, senescence and the formation of renewal shoots. The entire period of stem development is divided into two cycles: the main cycle, which lasts from bud germination to full development, flowering and crown formation, and the recovery cycle, from the appearance of stem shoots to the complete death of the stem. The duration of the main development cycle of shrubs can serve as a criterion for establishing the degree, methods and frequency of pruning.

The least durable shoots from ornamental shrubs in terms of lifespan are spirea and rose hips. Their shoots have vegetative growth for one year and quickly age after flowering. However, bushes of these species are easily renewed by stem shoots, and many of them have a fairly long life cycle. Shoots of other species usually live 2-4 years, depending on the lifespan of the fruit branches.

These shrubs should be pruned to the point where large stem shoots grow. When the shoots become old, they need to be cut back to the underlying stem shoots or to the base of the trunk. Bushes that do not develop stem shoots should be pruned to the very base (“planted on a stump”). This method of pruning allows you to always maintain the bushes in decorative condition.

Spireas that bloom in early summer (medium, St. John's, oak-leaved, crenate, Vangutta, sharp-toothed) should be pruned immediately after flowering, and those blooming in mid- and late summer (willow-leaved spirea, Menzies, broad-leaved, Japanese, Bumalda) - in autumn or spring ( in April). This is explained by the fact that the former lay flower buds on the shoots of last year, the latter - on the shoots of the current year. Spiraes must be pruned annually.

Shrub trimming: a - meadowsweet; b - bladder; c - meadowsweet

Honeysuckle and mock orange have unstable progressive growth of shoots, lasting from one to several years. Usually in the second year, the apical growth of shoots stops, and lateral flowering shoots develop from the axillary buds. The full cycle of shoot development in these types of shrubs is 6-7 years, and the bushes die off after 14-20 years.

In honeysuckle and mock orange, at the end of the main development cycle, aging parts of the stem should be cut out to the point where large stem shoots appear. Parts of the stem that have become lignified from the coppice shoots at the top of the crown and are, as it were, a continuation of the main shoot, can be left, since their active life activity can continue for quite a long period (2-3 main development cycles). The perennial stem growth of these shrubs ensures a fairly long lifespan and decorative appearance, and timely and correct pruning allows them to always be maintained in a decorative condition.

Shrub trimming: a - Tatarian honeysuckle; b - common viburnum; c - common lilac

It is advisable to prune honeysuckle and mock orange after flowering. To maintain the good shape of the honeysuckle bush, the old branches are cut out and the longest young shoots are somewhat shortened; Faded shoots of mock oranges are cut out, and young side shoots are left to ensure flowering next year. Overgrown bushes are thinned out in the spring, leaving only strong young shoots that can quickly restore flowering. More durable than honeysuckle and mock orange are alpine and golden currants.

Currant shoots do not require annual pruning. The main methods of pruning are thinning the crown and shortening the shoots before the formation of stem shoots begins. Currants are characterized by regeneration by stem shoots and shoots from the root collar. Therefore, when thinning, you need to cut out old branches to the base of the trunk or to the point where strong stem growth has formed. It is advisable to perform this operation in the spring before the buds begin to bloom or in May after flowering. Typically, old currant shoots are cut out once every 4-5 years.

Lilac and viburnum have a long, progressive growth of shoots with a main development cycle of 9-20 years, and trunk longevity of up to 30 years. The types of regeneration in these types of shrubs are similar.

Rejuvenating pruning of these shrubs should be done to the base of the trunk or to the point where strong stem growth appears once every 5-6 years. Their main pruning involves shortening the central and lateral branches of the trunk before the stem branches begin to dry out.

The weakest and drying branches of lilac are cut out annually, and fading branches and brushes are cut out immediately after flowering. In grafted forms, it is necessary to remove root suckers, as they significantly weaken the growth and development of the main plant.

The best time to prune lilacs is spring (March - early April).

Old viburnum branches, if necessary, are cut out immediately after flowering or in winter, when the fruits are ripe. By cutting out old branches, you can quickly restore the decorative appearance of the bush. Optimal time trimmings - April.

The most durable shrubs with a main development cycle of 18-35 years and a life expectancy of up to 20-40 years are cotoneaster, serviceberry, yellow acacia and hawthorn. They are characterized by the fact that they almost do not form stem shoots or produce them very rarely.

Trimming hedge bushes: a - c - correct; d - d - incorrect

The main method of pruning the listed shrubs is to thin out the skeletal branches and shorten the shoots, which promotes increased growth of the remaining branches and the appearance of shoots on the trunk and at its base. Pruning must begin before the period of aging and death of the shoots. An indicator of the need for such pruning can be a weakening of shoot growth and a decrease in flowering.

Techniques for pruning ornamental shrubs

There is a system for pruning ornamental shrubs, which comes down to nine techniques.

Technique 1: Haircut to maintain shape

This technique is used for shrubs that are grown in molded hedges and require constant pruning.

If you form a hedge in the spring, you remove only the growth from the previous year. If you prefer a haircut in the second half of summer, you will remove the current year’s growth accordingly. You may need to do both spring and summer pruning if you are dealing with fast-growing plants. (Attention: we are talking about pruning bushes that have already been formed for the hedge and have reached the desired height and dimensions.)

Formative pruning will help you keep the plant neat and compact - in the desired size and shape.

Haircut to keep fit

And remember: once you have used this type of pruning, it is advisable to do it annually.

Small plants can be cut with scissors or electric trimmer. For large ones, you need to use pruning shears, since damaged leaves and stumps remaining from the shoots will turn brown and die.

This technique is used to trim hedges of barberries, privet, hawthorn, honeysuckle, cotoneaster, and snowberry.

Technique 2: Removing New Growth by Half

Do not allow broom and other gorse bushes to spread widely and expose the base. Trim new growth by half each year. Start doing this when the plant is still young. If several years are missed for pruning, in the future young shoots will grow, falling down from the old, coarsened branches, which will sharply reduce the decorative value of the shrub.

Trim back any new green shoots to encourage new branches and bush growth.

Do not prune onto old, rough wood. Remove dead branches completely.

After pruning, the bush will look more elegant and compact.

Prune shrubs such as gorse after the flowers have faded but before the seeds have ripened.

This technique is used to prune Russian broom, creeping broom, and English gorse.

Technique 3: Trimming Dead Ends

Prune heathers and similar plants by removing dead shoot tips with scissors. This will help the plant to be slender and compact and encourage it to bloom.

Once the flowers begin to die, remove them with scissors. Wait until spring to prune fall-blooming heathers.

Remove shoots close to the base of the current year's growth. Do not prune onto old, dark wood.

Heathers and almost all Ericas are pruned using this technique.

Removing new growth by half

Trimming dead ends

Technique 4: shortening side branches

We are talking about shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the previous year. As a rule, these are summer-flowering shrubs. Pruning them stimulates the growth of a large number of side branches and more abundant flowering. The shoots should be trimmed by one third from the top to well-developed buds immediately after flowering. Hydrangea paniculata can be pruned in early spring if you want to admire its powerful inflorescences in winter.

After pruning, the plant will not appear to have grown significantly compared to last year. But it will become more compact, and flowering next year will be more abundant.

This technique is used to prune hawthorns, paniculata hydrangea, rugosa rose (if you grow it not for its fruits, but for its flowering), and Erica arborescens (it should be cut off not by 1/3, but by 2/3 of the shoot).

Technique 5: Removing one stem out of three

A large number of shrubs that produce many new shoots each year will look healthy and beautiful if one shoot out of three is cut out each year. This very common technique avoids excessive thickening of the bushes and also stimulates flowering on strong shoots.

The technique is applied to three groups of bushes:

Which bloom early on the shoots of the previous year (forsythia, Spira vanguta, ornamental currants);

Which bloom profusely throughout almost the entire summer (shrub cinquefoil);

Some shrubs that are grown for their beautiful foliage (white turf "Elegantissimo").

Shortening side branches

This type of pruning should begin when the bush reaches three years of age. And if every year after that you cut out one branch out of three, the bush will look strong and compact at the same time.

Remove one stem out of three, cutting it as close to the ground as possible. Select the weakest and oldest branches first.

After all old and weakened branches have been removed, remove those that extend far from the center of the bush and disrupt the shape of the plant. If you don't see a bud near the ground from which a new shoot can emerge, leave a short stem with a bud. You can later delete this branch as well when there is enough new growth to replace it.

After pruning, the bush may look somewhat sparse. But soon new shoots will appear to fill the space.

Using this technique, a significant part of the bushes are pruned if they need to be formed as tapeworms, and not for hedges. Among them are barberries, cotoneasters, hazel, deutzia, white derain "Elegantissimo", colkvitia, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, mahonia, weigela, snowberry, stephanandra tanaki, mock orange, oleaster, ornamental currant, forsythia, cinquefoil, lilac (more than one of them must be removed three, but one of four shoots), elderberry (if you need to stimulate not foliage growth, but flowering and fruiting), as well as spirea - arguta, vanguta, thunberga, nipponica, Japanese - "Bumalda" and "Shirobana", viburnum (if you want , so that the bush is more compact).

Please note: shrubs that bloom in early spring should be pruned only after they have finished flowering. Summer-flowering shrubs can be pruned in early spring.

Technique 6: Cutting to the Ground

Use this technique to cultivate and improve the development of plants that throw out a large number of vigorously growing twigs (for example, fragrant raspberry).

Some shrubs, such as ornamental raspberries, send out many new shoots each year. Old branches are best pruned to ground level in early spring.

Trimming to the ground

This pruning is also used in cases where young shoots of plants growing like raspberries have a decorative color. For example, Rubus cockburnianus has white young shoots. With age, their color changes and becomes less interesting. It is advisable to prune such a plant annually to ground level.

When pruning such plants, you do not need to worry about making a cut to the bud that is visible to you. Young shoots will come directly from underground.

Using this technique, decorative raspberries, stephanandra inquisa, and bicolor lespedeza are pruned.

Technique 7: pruning to the base of the bush(es)

Plants that are grown for their beautifully colored shoots, such as white turf, will look more attractive if they are regularly trimmed back to 5cm from the base of the bush to encourage the growth of new shoots.

The same technique is necessary to stimulate the growth of large decorative leaves (for example, elderberry with yellow leaves).

Allow the plant to grow for a season after planting and then prune it back to 5-7cm above the ground the following spring.

It is not recommended to prune plants in this way every year: if the bush is not well fed or poorly mulched, it will only be able to throw out weakened thin stems. But pruning to the base every second year is just what is needed. It will promote the growth of strong, thick stems, and the plant will not need intensive feeding.

Pruning to the base of the bush(es)

This technique is used to trim tree trees with decorative bark and decorative leaves, willows with decorative bark, and elderberry (if it is grown for its beautiful leaves).

Technique 8: pruning to the base of the bush (b)

The technique is exactly the same as the previous one. But pruning should be done in the first spring after planting and is required every year without fail. Buddleia and other shrubs that bloom on the current season's growth (such as tree hydrangea) will produce larger flowers on more compact plants if you prune the plant back 2 to 3 inches from the base of the bush each spring. If this is not done, the plants will produce smaller flowers on spindly, elongated branches.

Pruning at the base of the bush (b)

Trim off all last year's growth, leaving two buds at the base. This is usually 5-7 cm on last year's shoots.

If the bush has grown to a very large size and is overflowing with shoots, cut one or two old stems to ground level. This will allow the plant to conserve energy for better flowering and get rid of poorly placed branches. After pruning, many bushes can produce shoots up to 1.5 m long (or more) per season.

The same technique applies to dwarf Japanese spireas. By cutting them to the base of the bush, you solve several problems at once: you create growing conditions for new strong stems, form a compact, beautifully shaped shrub, and in the case of yellow-leaved spirea, promote the growth of brighter and more expressive foliage.

This technique is used to prune buddleia, tree hydrangea, spirea “Little Princess”, “Golden Princess”, “Gold Mound”, “Nana” and similar ones.

Technique 9: Pruning Plants with Gray Leaves

Regular pruning of plants such as lavender helps to create a proper compact shape. Start pruning the plant while it is young. If you resort to severe pruning of an adult plant for the first time and cut to old wood, the shrub can become very weak and even die. Prune regularly every spring. If the current year's growth comes directly from the base of the bush, cut the plant 5-10 cm from the ground.

Pruning plants with gray leaves

When pruning a mature plant with a woody base that does not have young shoots coming from the ground, be careful. Do not cut into old dark wood. Make do with trimming soft shoots from the previous year to 5-10 cm from old dark wood.

This technique is used to prune lavender.

Of course, this scheme needs to be approached creatively. If, for example, a shrub, which is usually pruned using technique 5 (one shoot out of three is removed), has grown greatly, has lost its attractive shape and begins to bloom worse, it can be radically planted on a stump using technique 8 and thereby be rejuvenated. If the tips of a bush that is pruned using the same technique 5 are frozen, you will still have to not only remove one shoot out of three, but also run pruning shears along the tips of the frozen branches.

It is quite acceptable to deviate from the rules if you know these rules well and have an idea of ​​why you are making this or that movement with pruning shears. Any pruning technique must be combined with sanitary pruning - remove all diseased, broken, crooked, weakened branches.

Formation and trimming of hedges

Hedges are widely used in gardens and parks, on the territory of cultural institutions, schools, etc. They organize the territory occupied by green spaces, emphasizing the originality of its individual sections and the general principles of planning.

There are two types of hedges: free-growing shrubs that are not molded, as well as a certain artificial shape with a clearly defined transverse profile.

In hedges of the first type, beautifully flowering shrubs are usually used, systematic pruning of which greatly reduces their decorative qualities. They are not subjected to shaping pruning, with the exception of trimming some branches that protrude greatly beyond the general contours of the crown. For moldable hedges, pruning is mandatory. Moreover, it is carried out several times during the summer as new shoots grow and the shape of the hedge loses its clarity, maintaining the given cross-sectional profile.

Pruning of hedges begins in the first year, immediately after planting, and is done at the same level from the surface of the ground along a stretched cord. Plants are trimmed from above and from the sides, giving the hedge the required transverse profile.

In the first years after planting the hedge, 1/2-1/3 of the growth of shoots is cut off; as they grow, the pruning depth is increased to 2/3 of the average length of the shoots. When the height and width of the hedge approach the required dimensions, the cutting depth must be increased, leaving only stumps 1-2 cm high. The number of hedge trimmings at a young age does not exceed two per growing season, and when it enters the full decorative phase, their number should be increase for fast-growing shrubs to four to six, for slowly growing shrubs - up to three (depending on the natural and climatic conditions and the site where they grow). This amount of trimming ensures that the desired transverse profile of the hedge is maintained throughout the growing season.

The most common hedges have the following cross-sectional shapes: rectangular, straight and reverse trapezoid, triangular, semi-oval and ovoid. The most common is the rectangular shape. However, with such a cross-sectional profile, the lower parts of the fence (especially tall ones) quickly become exposed due to lack of light. In order for all parts of the hedge to receive uniform lighting, its side surface should be slightly inclined. This especially applies to living walls. An inclination of the side surface of a hedge equal to 12 cm per 1 m of height, or an angle of inclination of 83° to the horizon, creates the best conditions for uniform illumination of the side surfaces of hedges.

The first pruning is carried out in March - April, before the buds begin to bloom. At this time, in addition to leveling haircuts, sanitary pruning and, if necessary, thinning and rejuvenation are carried out. After the shoots begin to grow and the cross-section of the fence loses its clarity, leveling trims are necessary.

Hedges serve not only for decoration, but also to delimit space.

When starting pruning, you need to imagine from the very beginning what your hedge will be like, and take this into account when giving the above-described “cocoon” the required shape.

It is difficult to turn a fence that was initially rectangular in cross-section into a hemispherical one - this must be done from the very beginning. A hedge will only be beautiful if it is planted correctly and properly cared for. A distinction is made between heavily trimmed and natural hedges.

Natural hedges are formed from trees or shrubs that grow in natural conditions and are not heavily pruned. They are very beautiful, but require a lot of space. Many woody plants are suitable for this, for example, mock orange, deutzia, diervilla, ornamental quince, lilac or evergreens such as holly, various types of juniper, cypress, Serbian spruce or thuja.

Various cylindrical forms of thuja or cypress trees become slender and tall without trimming the hedge, and the same applies to Serbian spruce trees. Other shrubs still need to be adjusted, by removing overly prominent branches and limiting the height of the plant, carrying out rejuvenation. The result of such work should not be striking; it is necessary to maintain the impression of a natural form. Plants for hedges are planted at a density of 1-2 pcs. by 1 linear meter.

Trimming a strictly formed hedge

Such hedges are subject to constant pruning and therefore provide a wide field of activity. They are kept in shape, they should not be wide or too high, only then the ideal fence will be obtained.

The planting density should be 2-3 pcs. per 1 linear meter, depending on the tallness of the planted species. But at the same time, it is hardly necessary to use flower-producing shrubs, at least those that bloom on old wood, for example, ornamental quince and dogwood. For strictly formed hedges, primarily hornbeam, beech, privet, maple, hawthorn, cypress, thuja, yew and, possibly, holly are used.

Trimming deciduous hedges

Small seedlings are used for planting. If they are still green, you need to trim them back hard right away. With repeated pruning, the hedge should grow by 15-25 cm annually. Anyone who thinks that by pruning the hedge more weakly will achieve results earlier will only achieve that the hedge below will have bald spots and even become bare. But the hedge must be dense along its entire height, starting from the bottom - for this, the bushes must branch well, which is achieved by constant pruning.

Pruning of hedges begins before shoot formation and is repeated 2-4 times until August - September. Intensely growing large-leaved shrubs (for example, maples) are pruned more often; small-leaved crops with delicate branches are pruned less frequently. Fences can form vertical walls or take on a trapezoidal shape. The latter option is labor-intensive, but more desirable, because in this way you can avoid exposure below.

At the base of the fence, the final width should be maintained - 0.4-1 m, depending on the crop, the height is determined at your own request.

Trimming evergreen hedges Deciduous and coniferous evergreen forms for hedges are not pruned as often as others. It is enough to prune before shoot formation and once in June - July. Trees and shrubs with thin branches can be pruned 3-4 times a year. But the last pruning of a hedge of such plants should be done in August, so that the cut surfaces will heal by winter.

Trimming hedges to create borders For low hedges in the garden, dwarf boxwood is being used less and less. Dwarf barberry or flowering shrubs are popular and are pruned only once before shoots grow back. Low-growing spirea, red-, green- or yellow-leaved barberry, evergreen honeysuckle and other species are suitable for border hedges.

Rejuvenating hedge trimming If, despite all your efforts, the hedge is exposed from below, it needs to be rejuvenated. This does not apply to evergreens and conifers. The stems are cut as low as possible, about 25 cm above the ground, and a new hedge is formed from shoots that do not need to be thinned. In this case, shrubs need to be pruned as often as young plants.

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How to make a fast-growing hedge in your country house?

A hedge looks especially beautiful on summer days. It will not only protect the site from outsiders, but will also help to form certain zones for various purposes on it.

For a green fence, you can use various growing materials: shrubs, climbing plants and trees. Properly selected plants will delight you with greenery and flowering for many years without losing their decorative qualities with regular care.

Approximate timing of hedge formation

A hedge of plants that grow quickly can be arranged from several types of plantings. Such a fence requires constant care both during the growth of just planted shoots and during the already formed fence. Plants for a hedge are selected so that the hedge is of the same height and density. After all different types greenery grows unevenly - some specimens stretch upward, others manage to grow in width during this time.

A full two-meter hedge can be formed from fast-growing perennial plants in about 2 years.

Plants are selected so that they fence off the area, but do not penetrate into the neighboring area. Both perennials and annuals are used for hedges. Annual plants must be replanted annually, which is not always acceptable. Annuals are also not suitable for fencing the outside of the site.

Fast growing shrubs

Fast growing bushes - optimal solution to form a dense hedge in a short time. Suitable for fencing an area from the outside specimens with spines. The result will be an impenetrable fence that will qualitatively protect the territory from uninvited guests and animals. Can be selected not only ornamental shrubs, but also fruit-bearing ones. You will receive both a luxurious fence and preparations for the winter.

Shrubs are selected taking into account the characteristics of the site, soil composition and climate. Different types of bushes can be arranged together.

The specimens are selected so that the resulting fence is approximately the same size. Some shrubs have a negative attitude towards removing the tops. Next we will consider the most suitable species for fast growing hedges.

Dogwood

Shade-tolerant and unpretentious shrub. It is ideal for external hedges. Him beautiful leaves and decorative fruits that are edible. Due to their nutritional properties, the berries are used in folk medicine. The height of the bush is 2-5 m. It blooms from March to April for about two weeks, then the leaves bloom. It bears fruit abundantly in open areas and neutral soil, but grows well under any other conditions.

It is planted in spring or early summer. You can lay out a dogwood hedge in the fall, but no later than 3 weeks before frost. When planting in autumn, leaves are removed from seedlings. Specimens under two years of age are suitable for planting a hedge. Autumn planting can be covered with foliage for the winter.

Viburnum-leaved bladderwort

An unpretentious shrub with excellent decorative qualities. The plant has a lush rounded crown. It can grow in the shade, but the leaves lose their rich color. The bush is perfect for urban hedges located along highways.

Container specimens are suitable for laying hedges. They can be planted throughout the warm period. Frost-resistant, does not require shelter. Only in very severe frosts can the tips of the shoots freeze.

Barberry

A thorny shrub that can grow in any soil and is drought-resistant. Has a bad attitude towards stagnant water in the area. Thanks to the thorns, an impenetrable fence is formed.

Both low-growing and tall varieties are used for hedges. The plant is decorative, especially during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen. For the fence you will need a large amount of material. The fruits are suitable for home preparation.

Turn

Unpretentious and undemanding in care. The bushes are compact, up to 3 m high, and do not require careful pruning. The fence turns out to be thick and impenetrable. The fruits are edible after frost and have medicinal properties. The hedge is especially beautiful in the spring during the flowering period, when the leaves have not yet blossomed on it. It attracts with its almond aroma.

When laying a hedge, each bush is trimmed, leaving a height of up to 15 cm. This measure allows you to accelerate the growth of the bush. To obtain an impenetrable fence, pruning can be repeated next year. Next, maintain the desired height.

climbing plants

For a fast-growing hedge, you can take annuals, provided that they are placed on a support as a decorative element. They are sown quite densely. Such plants will not protect the territory from animals and strangers, but will carefully hide it from unwanted eyes. The plants are renewed every year.

Suitable for one-year fence kobeya, sweet peas, morning glory (twisted panych), decorative beans, nasturtium and others. They are intertwined with each other, resulting in a solid green flowering panel up to 5 m high, depending on the type of annuals.

The following types of perennial plants are also popular.

Climbing (climbing) roses

Very decorative during the flowering period. The fence made from them is impenetrable due to the thorns and interweaving of the vines. It is recommended to separate the bush a little from other flowers. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water. It should not be planted in places where groundwater is located closer than 2 m.

The laying of the fence is carried out in the fall until mid-October. The appearance of the hedge is formed from the second year after planting the bushes. Plants are tied up. A horizontal garter gives only height growth, a vertical garter gives a large number of shoots. This must be taken into account when forming the density of the fence.

Clematis

Decorative throughout the warm period. To lay the fence, use bushes no older than two years old; they are planted in the fall. Plants grow optimally in open areas. Clematis does not tolerate acidic soils, overwatering and constant dampness, or fertilization with peat and manure. In hot weather, the soil must be protected from overheating by mulching with humus.

In order for clematis to bloom profusely, they must be pruned. For the winter, the bushes are covered, since the root collar of the bush is susceptible to freezing, especially those parts that have not yet risen to the surface.

Honeysuckle

Decorative bush up to 6 m high. Attracts landscapers with its high decorative qualities throughout the warm season. The hedge can be formed from various varieties of honeysuckle. The result will be a flowering fence in various shades: yellow, carmine red, rose red and orange-yellow. Pairs beautifully with climbing roses.

The fruits are edible; in some varieties they fall off on their own. For the first 5-7 years, only sanitary pruning is needed; the crown of the hedge is formed at a later age.

Ivy

It is decorative due to its foliage, which develops in large quantities. Fences can be composed of different varieties plants. The bush tolerates shade well, but in too shaded places it loses its foliage. Cannot stand scorching sun rays. Ivy is not picky about soil, pruning and care, the main thing is that the soil does not dry out.

Trees for fast-growing fencing

Eucalyptus

Among the trees, the fastest growing is eucalyptus. For landscaping, the varieties Gunny, few-flowered and lemon are used. They are undemanding to soil and drought-resistant. The height of the hedge is adjusted by pruning. It is recommended to cover it for the winter. Do not allow the soil to dry out.

Willow

Suitable as a fast-growing hedge, unpretentious to soil quality. Some varieties can be shaped into a bush by cutting the trunk. There are low-growing and dwarf trees, for example, purple willow, goat willow; they are very decorative as a green fence, but love moisture. It is recommended to spray the hedge in hot weather.

Aspen

It is unpretentious and grows in any soil. The hedge is formed from young shoots no older than a year. The branches are intertwined with each other, creating an impenetrable fence. The tree does not require maintenance. The height of the hedge is controlled by pruning; in this case, a lot of growth appears. Over time, aspen boletuses appear under such a fence.

Field maple

Suitable for hedges 2-4 m high. Does not tolerate acidic soil. It grows equally in the sun and in the shade, and easily tolerates drought and heat. Reacts well to haircuts. It is pruned twice a year, removing thick woody branches. The entire warm period is very decorative, especially in autumn.


You can learn about other types of fast-growing trees from the following video:

Undesirable plants for hedges

It is not recommended to use plants for hedges that grow strongly in different directions, digging into the soil. Such instances include raspberries and blackberries, serviceberry, fieldfare and the like. Such plants should not be planted on the border with another site. They are very difficult to control by pruning.

It is not recommended to plant bushes as a hedge that are susceptible to attack by pests and diseases, for example, viburnum. It is difficult to treat a dense fence with chemicals during an “epidemic”; moreover, such treatment is harmful to health. Such a fence quickly loses its beautiful appearance due to pests; it is extremely difficult to completely protect it from diseases.

Not recommended for fast-growing hedges non-winter-hardy perennials. Frozen specimens will need to be systematically replaced; in severe frosts, the hedge may completely die. You should not plant plants that you need replant periodically. Such a hedge gradually degenerates, losing its original appearance.

Planting and care

Initially, the territory is marked out. Material for a fast-growing hedge can be planted in two ways: dig a trench at least 40 cm deep and 60-100 cm wide, depending on the number of rows, or dig holes for each specimen separately. The planting step is chosen depending on the type of plants.

The minimum distance between specimens for single-row planting is 25 cm for climbing varieties, for shrubs 0.5-1.5 m, for trees - from 1.5 m. For double-row planting, the planting step is from 0.5 m.

It is recommended to replace the soil in the hole with a nutrient composition. The mixture is prepared according to the needs of the plant species. The crown of the hedge is formed during the first 4 years. Not all types of plants need pruning after planting. Typically, in the first 2 years, pruning is not used for climbing varieties and some shrubs. Some plant species, such as conifers, require pyramidal pruning to prevent lower branches from falling off. All types of plants require systematic watering and fertilizing during the period of rooting and growth.

If you decide to make such a decoration in your yard, then you need to decide on the purpose of the fence, its location relative to the sun and other factors, as well as its shape. After all, it can be free and grow in all directions. And there is one that needs to be shaped, cut and adjusted to certain sizes. Therefore, it is important to choose the right type of plant that will ideally cope with all your requirements.

Viburnum-leaved bladderwort

This bush has excellent characteristics for those who want to quickly green up their area. resistant to diseases, tolerates frosty winters well and, most importantly, these hedge plants are fast-growing.

grows in all directions at once. Its branches are densely covered with foliage, which looks similar to maple leaves, as well as currants and viburnum. The leaves have a very beautiful and unusual texture. The plant blooms at the end of June and beginning of July. Its inflorescences are umbrellas of many small flowers that densely fill the already dense branches. Did you know?

In one year, the plant lengthens its branches by 40 cm. The shape of the crown can be formed independently or allowed to grow in all directions. Standard bush has round shape . Some landscape designers
The plant should be pruned regularly, ridding it of inward growing, dry and diseased branches.

The best time for this is the end of autumn or the beginning of spring, when severe frosts have already subsided. It is important to do this at a time when the juices on the branches have not yet reached their usual speed during the warm season. Then you won't damage your plant. It is preferable to create a bush shape in the spring.
It is worth noting the variety of varieties. They are radically different from each other due to foliage color. She may be:

  • purple color, which can change to red in the autumn ("Diabolo", "Little Devil", "Coppertina");
  • yellow with a golden tint (“Darts Gold”, “Luteus”);
  • the sheet has two colors at once: gold and burgundy (“Center Glow”).

There is also a dwarf variety "Nana", which is painted in a rich green color and decorated with bright white flowers.

Thuja

  • European and Giralda are distinguished by the highest resistance to frost;
  • the greenest one has the largest flowers, but does not tolerate winter well and is suitable for the southern regions;
  • oval-leaved;
  • drooping;
  • the middle one overwinters without loss.

Important! Fertilizers are important for forcysia: organic fertilizers are applied in the fall, mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring. And also pruning, which is carried out every year. Without these actions, the bush becomes very weak.

Privet

  • "Kobold" is a spherical bush no higher than 30 cm with bright green leaves that turn yellow-orange by autumn;
  • "Baguette" – round form, no higher than 40 cm, has red leaves, which turn brown when growing in the sun, and green in the shade;
  • "Admiration" - grows into a ball with a diameter of 50 cm and has unique foliage, which is purple inside and has a light border at the edges;
  • "Speshal Gold" - a thick golden crown that turns pink in the fall;
  • "Atropurpurea Nana" is a purple-red bush, up to 60 cm high, 1 m wide;
  • "Green Carpet" - does not grow higher than 50 cm and has light green foliage in a rounded crown.

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The best protection for a site from uninvited guests is a hedge of thorny bushes. Most of the thorny plants that are suitable for arranging living fences are also decorative. Beautiful foliage, flowers and a picture of bright berries that replace them delight the eye throughout the warm season.

Thorny hawthorn branches

Prickly shrubs are unpretentious in care and, as a rule, are frost and drought resistant. It is only important to correctly form a hedge from them so that it fulfills all its functions.

Forming a properly thorny hedge

The finished thorny hedge will last for about 4 years. At the initial stage, the shrubs are planted in a row at a distance of 20 centimeters from each other. After a year, rooted plants need to be pruned so that the shoots rise no more than 10 centimeters above the ground. Throughout this season, you need to remove weak shoots so that by next year 3-4 strong branches remain. Where branches intertwine, they can be tied to strengthen the fence and make it as impenetrable as possible.

In the third year, you can form the lower part of the living fence, securing the regrown shoots to the trellis. In the fourth year, you can already trim the bushes, creating the desired crown shape.

Most often, thorny plants such as rose hips, barberry, and hawthorn are used to create hedges. But there are many other shrubs that are undeservedly forgotten.

Thorny bushes in a hedge

Most thorny bushes tolerate pruning well. Control over growth must be constant, since many shoots appear during the warm season. To maintain the beautiful shape of the hedge, you need to carry out regular, thorough pruning.

What thorny plants are most popular in gardening and creating green fences? Let's start the review with the most popular shrubs.

Hawthorn

There are many varieties of this plant suitable for creating a hedge. When choosing a variety, you should check with the seller what height it can reach. If the hawthorn is not pruned, the result can be simply impenetrable thickets. The length of the spines of this plant in different varieties can vary from 5 to 12 centimeters.



Hedge and hawthorn

Hawthorn berries also have healing properties. Pleasant to the taste, they will help cope with problems such as hypertension, insomnia, stress, and also cleanse the body of toxins.

Barberry

Like hawthorn, barberry is very popular among gardeners. This plant has many varieties that can be combined with each other and with other types of shrubs. They are distinguished by their frost resistance, as well as a powerful root system. Therefore, with the help of barberry, you can perform another task on the site: strengthen the existing slopes.



Japanese barberry hedge

All varieties of barberry lend themselves well to pruning. But it should be remembered that the popular Thunberg variety has a height of no more than 1 meter, so it is not suitable for creating high hedges. It is used to frame paths and flower beds. Barberry is also good in single plantings.

Rose or wild rose hips

In garden plots you can find different varieties of this thorny shrub. They are distinguished by abundant flowering. During this period, the bushes are unusually transformed.



If you decide to create a prickly fence of roses, then you should know that the bushes can reach a height of 2-3 meters, and the powerful root system grows quickly and produces many shoots that need to be regularly removed or special restrictions installed.

Mahonia

It is distinguished by the presence of spiny leaves of a rich green color. And small yellow flowers appear on the bushes at the end of winter. If you plant shrubs very often, then during the flowering period you will admire the gorgeous yellow hedge cap. Mahonia grows well near ponds and in the shade. It is also not afraid of dense soils.



Appearance of Mahonia aculifolia

The unusual foliage and beautiful flowers make the plant decorative. Semicircular crowns give the bushes a lush shape, and freely growing branches create some spreadingness.



This plant has very unusual flowers, in the place of which berries subsequently appear. They are used as a tonic. Prinsepia is unpretentious and frost-resistant.

A heavily branching shrub that can reach four meters in height. The plant does not require special care. With its help, you can create an impenetrable fence that will reliably protect the area from gusts of wind, dust and prying eyes. Blackthorn is excellent for external fencing of the entire site.



thorn branch

White flowers appear even before the first leaves. The berries ripen in the fall and can be eaten.

Sea ​​buckthorn

This is one of the most undemanding shrubs. Sea buckthorn can be easily propagated from seeds. Sea buckthorn hedges planted in two rows look especially good. Berries in combination with foliage give the shrub a decorative appearance. Sea buckthorn berries can be eaten and have a number of healing properties. Fruiting is reduced if the bushes are trimmed regularly. But in this case, such pruning is necessary to maintain the boundaries of the fence.

Raspberries

Unpretentious. Caring for her does not present any difficulties. When planting, it is better to immediately install some kind of limiter to prevent uncontrolled growth into neighboring areas.

For a dense living fence, raspberries can be planted in two rows. And to make the fence impenetrable, the bushes need to be placed in a checkerboard pattern. Pruning is done in spring and autumn. The tops of the bushes are trimmed at the same level. Raspberries should be tied up to protect the branches from breaking off during strong gusts of wind.

Fragrant and tasty berries will delight children and adults. And in order to have as many of them as possible, the raspberry hedge needs to be watered regularly.

Caragana tree

Most often referred to as yellow locust. This plant originated in Siberia and is therefore extremely hardy. It can be used to make excellent wind protection in the form of a living fence. For this purpose, caragana shrub is used.



Caragana tree (yellow acacia)

Caragana, or acacia, blooms profusely. During flowering, a pleasant aroma spreads throughout the area. The branches are covered with a few thorns.

Don’t be afraid to use thorny bushes to organize hedges. Their freshness and beauty are many times superior to artificial fences.

In most of Russia climatic conditions Not the best for gardening. Nature presents many unexpected surprises.

Therefore, gardeners who decide to make a hedge with their own hands should carefully select plants. They must be unpretentious and cold-resistant.

There are many such plants. These are different varieties of trees, shrubs and climbing plants. You just need to choose them wisely, taking into account what kind of green fence you have to make.

If you live in central Russia, you should not rely on plants such as oriental thujas and cypresses, Korean and balsam fir. In this region they do not take root well: they can only winter under a thick snow cushion. It is better to use evergreen plants adapted to the local climate for hedges. They will not only decorate the area and purify the air, but will also hold back snow and wind.

Spruce

It could be dwarf Canadian spruce or gray spruce, tall or dwarf species ate prickly. And also ordinary spruce of different heights or one and a half meter Serbian spruce, the needles of which are distinguished by shiny dark green needles with two bluish stripes.

Juniper

This is one of the most popular and numerous representatives coniferous plants. The most unpretentious types of juniper will look very good in a hedge: Virginia, horizontal, Chinese, Cossack and common.

Fir

Fir is not a city dweller; smoke damage harms its development. Only outside the city does it take root well and delight with its noble beauty. For the middle zone, types such as whole-leaf, single-color, and balsamic are suitable.

Pine

In gardening, cold-resistant and unpretentious species of this plant are most often used. Scotch, mountain and Weymouth pine are truly decorative.

Cypress pea

An evergreen plant that comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. It withstands winter troubles well. From the genus of cypresses it stands out for its unpretentiousness.

Yew

Champion among evergreens in terms of frost resistance and endurance. It will feel good in a living fence located in a shady corner. Species such as berry and Canadian yew have proven themselves especially well in central Russia.

Thuja

From the large family of this culture, it is worth paying attention to the western thuja. Will withstand any vagaries of the Russian winter. This species is rich in forms and varieties. You can choose a dwarf western thuja, which will grow to only 60 cm (variety Danica) or its opposite - a 15-meter giantess with a spiral crown (Spiralis).

Plants for deciduous hedges

They differ from evergreens in that their decorative effect is not year-round, but only while the foliage is alive. Many deciduous plants bloom beautifully, are honey plants, are used in folk medicine, and bear fruit.

These are the most famous shrubs and trees: acacias, chokeberry, euonymus, elderberry, hawthorn, cherry, elms, hydrangea, derain, honeysuckle, willow, viburnum, cotoneaster, maple, lilac, currant, jasmine mock orange.

Fast growing shrubs

Of these crops, the most impatient hedges are created. Although it cannot be said that they are losing in some way, because many plants grow quickly - both evergreen and deciduous. In addition, each of them is beautiful in its own way and can withstand negative atmospheric influences.

  1. Deciduous Thunberg barberry is a plant whose shoots are purple-red and yellow and stand out in bright spots against a green background. One of the most favorite plants for garden construction outside the city.
  2. Euonymus. Both in summer and autumn it amazes with the multicolored foliage: from white to purple. The leaves will fly around - the bush is still beautiful, hung with bright berries.
  3. Privet. Trimming this bush is a real pleasure; any fantasy can be realized, you can get either a smooth green wall or any shape. The only drawback: it is afraid of frost, so in the middle zone it requires shelter for the winter.
  4. Cotoneaster. Flowers have a modest appearance, but they are not its main decoration. The bush is decorated by a lush crown of shiny dark leaves, which gradually acquire a crimson color by autumn. Added to this splendor are the red spots of the berries, which remain on the branches until severe frosts. When pruned, cotoneaster can easily be given any shape that does not lose its outline for a long time.
  5. Hawthorn. It attracts attention both during spring flowering and in summer, when ripening fruits acquire yellow, orange, and red colors. In autumn, the bright foliage shows itself in all its glory. An indispensable plant for fast-growing hedges in the Moscow region and other regions of the middle zone.
  6. Forsythia. Also very decorative. It is usually planted when creating dense green fences. Its flowers look beautiful against the backdrop of dense, lush foliage.
  7. Boxwood. It is not afraid of moderate frosts, but can die from winter wind or spring sun rays. If you take good care of it, it grows quite quickly, with a bright green outfit all year round. Can also be used in trimmed hedges.
  8. Yew. This evergreen shrub has dense but not prickly needles. Depending on the species or variety, it can grow in the form of a regular bush or ball, candle, cone, or creeping. Very convenient for cutting.
  9. Thuja. Evergreen fast-growing shrub. Gardeners love it for its dense crown, clear shape and pleasant aroma. For a hedge, you should choose western thuja, which does not require special care and can withstand cold weather.

Plants for living fences of different heights

The single-tier height of a hedge is usually dictated by saving space on the site. This means that it will require trees whose branches grow from the very base of the trunk. These are poplars, lindens, maples.

If the gardener does not face such a problem, it is better to create a multi-tiered green fence that will well cover the area on the windy side. It will turn out that, selected according to height, trees and shrubs will not cover each other, but will be beautifully combined in color and alternately bloom and bear fruit.

1. The highest row can be occupied by linden, elm, poplar, ash, maple, buckthorn, willow, and rowan.

Trees such as white or blood-red derain, common and Amur barberry, buckthorn, narrow-leaved and silver oleaster, spiked and smooth serviceberry, chokeberry, hazel, Tatar honeysuckle, mock orange, chokeberry, Hungarian and common lilac, maple will grow up to three meters Ginnala and Tatar.

2. For hedges with a height of 1.2 to 2 meters, gray and wrinkled roses, shiny cotoneaster, Russian broom, willow spirea, Thunberg barberry, alpine and golden currant, blanket and alpine honeysuckle are well suited.

With plants of this height, well adapted to the local climate, you can mark the border with your neighbors and divide your plot into separate zones.

3. Even lower fences - from one meter to 1.2 m, will be created by the following shrubs: low-growing species of Thunberg barberry and mock orange, Bessey and ferruginous cherry, steppe almond, Japanese and three-lobed spirea.

4. If you are planning a border fence half a meter high, you need to plant dwarf caragana (varieties Pygmaea and Nana), Thunberg barberry (Aurea, Atropurpurea Nana, Green Carpet), Japanese spirea (Golden Princess and Little Princess), mock orange (Gnome and Dwarf) , as well as lingonberries.

Formed plantings

Clipped plantings look especially impressive. They are compact, neat, and retain their given shape for a long time. And after a few years, an impenetrable hedge forms. To get this result, you need to choose the right plantings that will retain their shape and easily recover after cutting.

All these qualities are found in linden, brilliant cotoneaster, hawthorn,

honeysuckle varieties Alberta, Alpine, Tatar, blanket. They are also possessed by honeysuckle, white derain, alpine and golden currants, barberry, maple - Tatarian and Ginnala, poplar - Canadian and Berlin, and purple-leaved willow.

Coniferous trees can also be formed. For a trimmed hedge, good choices would be common spruce, European larch and two types of thuja - Smaragd and Brabant. Larch is especially impressive after pruning - it is good both in its green state and after the needles have fallen.

Plants for prickly fences

A hedge of plants with thorns is a real “locked border”. Dense thickets are difficult to overcome not only for humans, but even for domestic animals.

Mixed hedges

It is preferable to install these types of combined green fences in spacious areas. Here there will be plants with different flowering and fruiting periods, and with different leaf colors.

A hedge made up of two species of different heights looks interesting. In this case, a low-growing shrub will cover the bare branches of tall plants with its foliage.

IN mixed plantings Such varieties of lilac as Amur, Hungarian and drooping lilacs are successfully combined with tall species of mock orange jasmine, viburnum (Gordovina and Boule de neige), and forsythia.

Climbing (climbing) plants

Perhaps the most decorative. "Convolvuli" have long shoots, beautiful leaves and luxurious flowers. Tendrils and hooks help them rise quite high, while forming a continuous carpet of greenery and flowers. The flowering of many climbing plants is long and abundant.

What is especially valuable is that complete decorative effect achieved much faster than other garden crops. In addition, they make the gardener’s work easier without the need for special preparation for winter.

Perennial climbing plants

They are the best material for a living fence.

1. Climbing rose. For a green fence, you should choose only winter-hardy varieties that do not need shelter, otherwise the owners will have to deal with the annual hassle of preparing the bushes for winter.

These plants are good because they bloom for a long time, and some varieties bloom many times. Colors include white, red, yellow, pink and maroon.

2. Honeysuckle honeysuckle. A plant famous for its wonderful aroma. It is able to withstand severe cold without shelter, so it can not be removed from its supports for the winter. Grows well in elevated areas, in moderately moist soil.

3. Clematis. Belongs to the ranunculaceae family. The most popular is purple clematis. Its vines reach two meters in length, the flowers are large, up to 6 cm in diameter.

4. Campsis. A beautiful deciduous vine with aerial sucker roots and bright scarlet or orange flowers tubular shape.

5. Wisteria. A rather capricious climbing plant native to the southern regions. White, pink or blue flowers are collected in hanging clusters.

6. Calistegia. Birch is similar to wild bindweed, but its flowers are larger.

7. Common ivy. Although the plant belongs to the evergreens, in the middle zone it does not always survive the winter safely and needs shelter or a thick snow cushion.

8. Maiden (wild) grapes. An excellent climbing plant for building a hedge. It grows wherever it is planted, in any soil. It is especially beautiful in autumn, when the leaves turn purple and the inedible fruits turn dark blue. Does not require shelter for the winter.

Flowering plants

The sight of a flowering hedge is itself a charm. Tall shrubs, showered with flowers, emitting a fragrance - this is not the dream of any amateur gardener.

The following plants are suitable for forming a picturesque fence:

  • Syrian hibiscus. A two-meter shrub that blooms from July to September. Flowers come in a wide variety of colors.
  • Hydrangea. A shrub up to one and a half meters high, continuous flowering lasts for several months. Mostly the flowers are white, but if you plant large-leaved hydrangea, it will produce flowers in amazing colors - pink, blue, red or lilac.
  • Japanese spirea. Reaches a height of one and a half meters. It remains in bloom all summer. Looks great framed with pink or purple flowers.
  • Fragrant mock orange. Three-meter bushes bloom from late spring to early summer. The flowers are white, with a strong spicy aroma.
  • Multi-flowered rose. Can grow up to 4 meters. Blooms in early June and blooms until mid-summer. Interesting property: the flowers change color: at first they are white-pink, then pure white.
  • Deytsia. The height of the bush is from two to five meters. Blooms with the onset summer warmth. The flowers are white and do not emit a scent.
  • Tatarian honeysuckle. Also blooms in early summer. Flower color is white or pink. Produces inedible orange or red fruits.
  • Common rose hip. Height - up to one and a half meters. Flowering continues all summer. The fruits ripen by mid-autumn.
  • Barberry Juliana. Height - up to 2.5 meters, covered with yellow flowers in the first summer month. Produces black or red fruits.

We hope that our article helped you understand popular plants for creating a hedge.

Many summer residents strive to improve their garden, make it beautiful and harmonious. A thorny hedge is usually planted to demarcate a garden or to protect it from outsiders. Such a bush will decorate the landscape, can produce edible and healthy fruits and protect the area from unwanted entry of strangers.

The following plants are often planted to form a prickly fence:

  • Barberry
  • Blackberry
  • Hawthorn
  • Rose hip

Each shrub is remarkable, beautiful in its own way and belongs to the class of thorny hedges.

Prickly hedges in most cases serve as a living fence for the garden, but are also planted for decorative purposes inside the site. The thorny plants achieve significant growth four years after planting. In order for a hedge bush to have a dense crown, it should be planted correctly. Planting of young shoots is done in increments of 20-25 centimeters.

After a year, when the plants take root, they should be pruned. Experts advise trimming one-year-old shoots so that their height does not exceed 10-12 centimeters from the ground. When the bush is young, it requires special care. Weak branches should be regularly pruned so that only strong ones remain in the second year of growth, since such branches will be the basis for the entire plant.

After about 3-4 years of growth, most varieties of thorn hedges can be applied to decorative molding. Depending on the type of shrub, its cutting is selected. It can be done either freely or using frames and wire.

Hawthorn prickly hedge

Hawthorn, as a shrub, is well suited for forming an impenetrable thorny hedge.

This is a plant with bright fruits, neatly shaped leaves and sharp spines. It can serve as impenetrable and decorative fence Location on. Hawthorn spines can be called super-strong, however, at the beginning of growth they are soft and only over time become hard and sharp. European hawthorn species may have small thorns or no thorns.

Hawthorn prickly hedge

For planting truly thorny hedges, gardeners prefer American hawthorn species:

  • Softish
  • Arnold's hawthorn
  • Soft

American hawthorn plants have a dense, rounded crown and thorny shoots. Thanks to the numerous flowers and fruits that can be eaten, the shrub remains decorative almost all year round.

Hawthorn is popular due to its ease of care and unpretentious conditions for growth. It can be planted in a shaded area in urban environments. Such plants tolerate drought and frost well, they can be decorated with a fence using pruning or left in a free-growing style.

As for watering, hawthorn loves water and needs watering once a month in the summer. During the dry season, plants can be watered twice a month.

Thorn hedge

Sloes are a variety of plums and are often planted as a thorny hedge. It is preferable to plant thorns in sunny areas of the dacha. In this case, it will develop faster and bear fruit with small, sour-tasting fruits. In summer, at the peak of flowering, sloe plants are capable of creating impenetrable thickets. In summer, the hedge requires watering 1-2 times a month.

The formation and pruning of trees and shrubs at landscaping sites has different goals than when growing plants in a nursery. The most important task of tree pruning is to remove unnecessary or damaged branches. For deciduous trees, pruning is carried out during the dormant period. First of all, the rubbing, intersecting branches growing inside the crown are cut out. Branches that grow too strongly and extend beyond the crown are shortened. When two or more equivalent upper shoots appear, all competitors of the selected leader are cut into a ring. If shoots appear on the trunk and at the root collar from dormant buds, they are plucked out and the shoots are cut out. This applies not only to upright trees, but also to species with drooping branches.

Disease-affected branches, often very large ones, are also cut out. JI, with the transition of the tree to the old age stage, they begin pruning for reverse growth, causing the growth of new strong shoots.

To maintain a clear geometric volume of the crowns, all types of pruning are used, but the main pruning is the systematic shortening of annual growths. The time for pruning deciduous trees in the central zone of our country is early spring. Evergreen trees are pruned in spring and summer.

The main purpose of pruning shrubs is to ensure their vital activity and decorative effect for a long time, and the abundant flowering of beautiful flowering species. The degree, methods and frequency of pruning are determined by the biological characteristics of plants and their development cycle.

A significant drawback in caring for plantings at present is ignorance of the characteristics of the development of shrubs. Most often, the appearance of dry parts and death of stems cause bewilderment, although they are a consequence of the natural biological process of aging and death of stems. Dead shoots that are not cut out in time litter the bushes, which is why frequent plantings on stumps are used in practice. This technique weakens the plants as a whole and harms the overall decorativeness and durability of the plants. This approach to pruning ornamental shrubs, regardless of their species characteristics, is outdated, does not meet the modern level of knowledge and is completely unacceptable. In order to competently prune shrubs on landscaping sites, you need to know the durability of their trunks, the duration of progressive growth and the main development cycle, as well as the features of the restoration cycle.

According to the duration of progressive growth of the stem, shrubs can be divided (according to 3. I. Luchnik) into three classes, according to the duration of the main cycle - into 11 groups, and according to the nature of renewal - into six types. The main difference in the types of renewal of trunks (stems) is the location of the appearance of renewal shoots on the trunk (49).

Class 1. Unites early-ripening species of shrubs in which the progressive growth of trunks (strong vegetative shoots) lasts one year, after which the apical growth of the central axis stops. In subsequent years, progressive growth continues due to small generative branches of two or three orders of magnitude, forming the primary crown. Having no growth at the top, the crown ages early and begins to die from three to five years.

Type I. No replacement (renewal) of above-ground stem shoots is formed.

The raspberry group has a two-year main development cycle, after which the stem dies completely.

Type II. Renewal shoots are formed in the middle and lower parts of the stem.

The group of willow-leaved spirea and rosehip - the main development cycle is three years, the recovery cycle is one, the longevity of the stems is six years (rowanberry; fieldfare, lilac-flowered, menzies, oak-leaved and three-lobed; Daurian rosehip, wrinkled, cinnamon, needle-shaped and blunt-eared).

The vesicular carp group has a five-year main development cycle, the longevity of the stems is seven to eight years (vesicle carp viburnum).

Type III. Renewal shoots are formed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the stem.

The formation of vegetative renewal shoots at the top of the stem delays dieback and increases the overall longevity of the stem.

The middle spirea group - the main development cycle is three to six years, the longevity of the stems is 6-14 years or more (medium spirea, crenate; shrubby cinquefoil).

Elderberry group - the three-year main development cycle is weakly expressed, the predominant longevity of the stem (trunk) is 13-15 years (Siberian and broad-leaved elderberry).

Class 2. Unites shrubs in which the progressive growth of trunks lasts one or several years due to the formation of vegetative shoots. From the second year, in shrubs of this class, the apical growth of the stem stops or forms a short fruiting branch, from the top of which a vegetative shoot still grows. Lateral generative branches have stable progressive growth at the top for several years.

Class 3. Shrubs with stable, perennial progressive growth due to the development of vegetative shoots at the top of the main stem. The trunks (skeletal axes) form crowns with perennial skeletal branches.

Type V. Renewal shoots are formed in the middle and lower parts of the stem.

Currant group - three to six years of progressive growth, the main development cycle is three to six years, trunk longevity is 6-10, 10-16 years (black and dark purple currants).

The group of viburnum, lilac - long-term progressive growth of stems, the main development cycle is 9-15-20 years, trunk longevity is 15-30 years or more (common viburnum, Tatarian lilac, common and shaggy lilac).

Type VI. Renewal stem shoots, as a rule, are not formed, i.e., the recovery period is not pronounced.

Group of almonds, cherries - seven to ten years of progressive growth, the main cycle is seven years, the average longevity of the stem is seven to ten years (low almond and Ledebura, steppe cherry).

Tatarian honeysuckle, e kälvia vulgare, j snrei vulgaris, stem titi: the place of rejuvenating pruning is marked with a line; The arrows indicate the places after aging of the grown and where they have not grown again.

Yellow acacia group - with many years of progressive growth, the main development cycle is 18-35 years. longevity of trunks is 20-50 years (cotoneaster, aronia, serviceberry spicata and round-leaved, yellow acacia).

The above classification covers a limited range, but gives a fundamental idea of ​​the diversity of biological characteristics of shrubs.

The aging and death of shrub stems begins with the earliest branches of the primary bark. Therefore, in early-ripening and short-lived species (class 1), the death of stems occurs from top to bottom: in more durable species (class 3), first the overgrowing branches of the skeletal branches die off, then the top of the central trunk, and then the tops of the skeletal branches, i.e., the death occurs in in general, also from top to bottom, aging stems and their parts (49 are painted black) must be cut out at the beginning of death or the cessation of progressive growth.

In shrubs of type II (spirea, fieldfare, rose hips, bladderwort), after the end of the main development cycle, hundred

soaring tops to the point of origin of large stem shoots, which will improve the development of the latter and the lighting conditions of the bush. In good light, the bush develops strong shoots from the base of the trunk - then old stems can also be cut out. In shrubs of this group, the replacement of aging stems is carried out well (all of them, except for the bladderwort, produce many rhizomatous offspring).

In type VI shrubs (cotoneaster, serviceberry, cherry, almond, yellow acacia), the stems of which, as a rule, do not produce stem shoots and die off entirely to the base, stem shoots must be induced artificially by gradually shortening the central axis and lateral skeletal branches. This shortening should begin not when the branches begin to dry out, but from the moment of weakening or cessation of progressive growth, i.e., from the moment the main development cycle ends. An older trunk either does not form renewal shoots at all, or forms very short-lived ones. In long-lived species (irga, yellow acacia), rejuvenating pruning can be carried out repeatedly, but in short-lived almonds and steppe cherries - only once.

In shrubs of type III and IV, at the end of the main cycle of stem development, not only the aging tops, but also part of the stem up to the point of origin of the stem replacement shoots are subject to pruning. But if in these shrubs the growth formed at the very top has taken on a tree-like form as a continuation of the stem, then such a stem as a whole can exist for a period of time equal to double or triple the period of the main cycle. In such stems, it is necessary to clean up small lateral branches in the old part of the crown , and then rejuvenation techniques can be applied to the trunk itself, as for type VI plants.

Type V shrubs form stem shoots well, but sometimes their formation is delayed or the shoots are not enough to create the desired plant habit. In such cases, gradual rejuvenating pruning is carried out, as with type VI shrubs.

The durability of shrubs and their ability to regenerate trunks should be taken into account when using different species in landscape gardening.

Class 3 shrubs are the most durable and least demanding to care for. But most of them are tall and therefore can be used to create tall groups and hedges.


Growing seedlings of ungrafted shrubs

When growing shrubs, the goal is to form plants with many, regularly branched shoots coming from the root collar (Fig. 1). To do this, in the second year after planting, in early spring, before sap flow begins, the bushes are pruned with pruning shears at a distance of 3-5 cm from the root collar (planting “on a stump”). As a result of such pruning, additional shoots develop from the buds located at the neck of the root, which is of great importance when growing such shrub species that natural form very weakly branched (yellow acacia, lilac, honeysuckle, viburnum, hawthorn).

Rice. 1. Formation of shrub seedlings: a - laying the crown, b - trunk, c - buds from which the crown will develop, d - seedling with thickening shoots, e - seedling with a trunk cleared of thickening shoots

The next year, also in early spring, the plants are pruned a second time, but not the entire bush, but only the wildly growing shoots to 1/3-1/4 of their length. This promotes the emergence of new shoots and the development of existing shoots. By the autumn of the third year, the grown seedlings, as a rule, reach the size required for planting them in a group or using them for hedges. The cultivation of the usual basic forms of shrubs thus ends in the first school. Sometimes shrubs are pruned to a stump before planting, thereby shortening the root system. This method is easier and requires less cost than planting seedlings on a stump in the second year of their stay at school. It is recommended to plant short-cut seedlings before planting in the period from the first half of September to the first half of October. This allows them to take root well before the end of the growing season and give vigorous growth in the spring. Some shrubs - red elderberry, yellow acacia and others - after such planting, develop only one shoot. When it reaches 15 cm, it is pinched to cause the lateral eyes to sprout. In the second year, in early spring, annual shoots of seedlings with three or four eyes are cut off to cause additional branching. In the third year, only strongly developed shoots are pinched to give the bushes the correct shape. Most climbing shrubs (lianas) are propagated by woody cuttings. They are transplanted into schools mainly in the form of rooted cuttings, less often (schisandra) - in the form of seedlings. Caring for vines consists of installing supports for gartering plants and protecting some of them, for example, cultivated varieties of grapes, clematis, etc., from frost. To do this, in the fall the shoots are removed from the supports, wrapped around them at the very surface of the soil, and covered with a layer of earth up to 30 cm thick on top. In early spring, the shoots are opened, raised on stakes and tied in several places. Planting vines on a stump is not practiced; it is used in case of freezing of shoots or their weak growth.

The peculiarity of growing coniferous shrubs - bush forms of thuja, juniper, yew - is regular and abundant watering until complete survival, especially in summer in hot, dry weather. To prevent sunburn, seedlings are covered with shields. Pruning of coniferous shrubs to the stump is not used.

For repair plantings, instead of dead shrubs, more developed and powerful ones are required, which are grown in the second school by selecting the most developed plants from those dug up in the first school. Selected seedlings are planted in the second school in a square manner according to the 1X1 m pattern. Growing such shrubs requires an additional 2-3 years. When caring, special attention is paid to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Shrubs are not subjected to special molding pruning.

Architectural forms of shrubs

In order to grow shrubs with a crown of an architectural shape - spherical, pyramidal, cone-shaped, columnar, cubic - highly branching, predominantly slow-growing species are used, which retain their shape for a very long time. The most suitable for this purpose are hawthorn, cotoneaster, common privet, silver oleagin, boxwood, common juniper, western and eastern thuja, etc.

These shrubs are transplanted in early spring into the second school in a square manner, the distance between plants is 1.25 X 1.25 m. After transplantation, the shrubs are subjected to strong shaping pruning, giving the crown the intended shape. As a result, young shoots appear near the cut site, which at the end of June are lightly pruned or minted for stronger branching. In the early spring of next year, the same trimming is performed a second time (slightly higher than the first), and in the summer, a small chasing is done. After each pruning, the plants are fed and watered. Such operations are carried out within one to two years, which makes it possible to grow bushes with a compact dense crown of the required shape in 3-4 years (Fig. 2).


Rice. 2. Pruning shrub seedlings for architectural shaping: a - first pruning, b - bush after pruning, c - second pruning, d - bush in the fall after the second pruning

The easiest to form in the form of a cone or pyramid are thuja occidentalis, thuja orientalis, and hawthorn unipalmosa; in the form of a column - common juniper; in the form of a ball - small-leaved mock orange, privet, spirea, cotoneaster, boxwood, etc.

Growing seedlings of grafted forms of shrubs

Grafted forms of shrubs are widely used in green building and ornamental gardening. These include many types and varieties of roses, lilacs, Buldenezh, Chinese almonds, hawthorns and a number of others. Grafted "shrubs on the territory of the mother garden are grown together with ungrafted, but separate continuous areas or separate rows in one school. If grafted shrubs of a standard form are grown (for example, weeping acacia or gooseberries on yellow acacia), the rootstocks are transplanted into a second school, where they are ennobled and form their crown.



One of the functions of hedges is to protect summer cottages from uninvited guests. Today, in addition, deciduous trees and shrubs, bearing thorns and thorns on their shoots, cope with this task “excellently”.

A thorny blackberry hedge,photo

Today you will meet tree species that are well known to you, learn about interesting features thorny hedges, borders that will be built with their help.

Barberries

Large and small, deciduous and evergreen - they all make wonderful thorny borders and hedges, especially spectacular when in flower.

Barberries in bloom, photo
And species and varieties with red fruits will be luxurious in the fall, when fruiting.


A colorful hedge of barberry Atropurpurea, fragment,photo. Thunberg Red Pillar barberry border,photo
During planting, maintain a distance between plants of 25-30 cm. If there is space, and for a more reliable fencing of the summer cottage, planting material is planted in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern. Barberries tolerate shearing well and make excellent molded or free-growing hedges and borders. It is good to feed them full at the beginning of shoot growth. mineral fertilizer(according to instructions). Flowering occurs on last year's growths, so molded hedges are trimmed after flowering; dwarf varieties in low curbs You don't have to cut your hair at all. For evergreen species, rejuvenating pruning to a “short stump” is used every 10 years, for deciduous species - once every 3-5 years, and in case of severe damage by scale insects or rust - annual pruning with the removal of all plant debris.

Blackberry

It was the blackberry hedge that helped me keep most of the plants in my dacha from thieves.

Blackberry (Rubus)- a very tenacious subshrub with creeping prickly shoots that live for 2 years, with compound leaves, white flowers with an extended flowering period and black (or black-red, with or without a bluish bloom) edible fruits. Winter-hardy in the southern gardening zone; in the north it is better to use highly frost-resistant varieties. In Non-Black Earth conditions it requires shelter, which is quite problematic.

Propagated by root suckers, rooting of apical young shoots, leaf-bud cuttings.

Blackberry hedge

In free-growing hedges, control of the spread of root suckers is required.


Blackberry hedge, photo from the site dom-sad911.ru. Blackberry fruits,photo
By the end of the second year after planting, trellises are built with three horizontal rows of wire every 30 cm. Young shoots are tied vertically, and their ends are directed horizontally. When they reach a length of 1 m, they are pinched (to form side branches). Fruit-bearing shoots are cut off in the fall. In the cold zone, young branches are laid on the ground and covered, and in the spring they are lifted and tied up. The distance in the row for brambles is from 80 cm to 1-2 m.

Rose, or rose hips (species)

I will give six deciduous species that make excellent thorny hedges, especially spectacular during the flowering period.


The dog rose, or rose hip, is blooming,photo Their flowers are charming and their fruits are rich in vitamin C.

Begger's Rose

Begger's rose (Rosa beggeriana)- a shrub 1-2.5 m high with erect bluish branches, large curved thorns, white flowers, spherical red fruits rich in vitamin C.

Very winter-hardy: in the north it reaches Kirovsk-St. Petersburg.

Daurian rose

This Far Eastern rose (Rosa davurica) up to 1.5 m high, with numerous thin branches, large needle-like thorns, pink flowers, ovoid orange fruits.

Winter-hardy: reaches northern and middle forest zones. It can grow by rhizomatous shoots, so control is required.

Rose needle

An excellent thorny hedge 1-2 m high can be made from this pink beauty. In addition to good winter hardiness, it is also quite shade-tolerant.

U needle roses (Rosa acicularis) arched spiny shoots, matte green leaves, pink flowers and pear-shaped red fruits.

Rose prickly

The specific name of this rose speaks for itself, and its double form “Plena” fascinates with its beautiful flowering.

Prickly rose (Rosa spinosissima) will produce hedges 1-1.5 m high. The shoots are covered with densely arranged thorns, the leaves are dark green, the flowers are white, fragrant, the spherical fruits are blackish in color. It is winter-hardy, but produces abundant growth and can grow strongly (control of spread is required).

Rose wrinkled

Will give magnificent borders and hedges 1-2 m high.


The rose is wrinkled,photo
Numerous erect shoots rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) covered with needle-like spines; leaves are dark green, wrinkled; bright pink (sometimes white) flowers are very fragrant; The bright red fruits are spherical, flattened at the poles. Winter-hardy, grows well in St. Petersburg, drought-resistant, undemanding to soil, resistant to fungal diseases.

Dog rose

It will provide not only borders, but also higher (up to 3 m) hedges.


Dog rose on Ai-Petri,photo
Dog rose, or common rose (Rosa canina) characterized by arched branches covered with curved powerful thorns, green or bluish leaves, pale pink or white flowers, bright red oval-oblong or rounded fruits. IN different regions it is not equally winter-hardy, so for planting you should use plants obtained from stratified seeds of local reproduction, which are harvested at the beginning of the reddening of the fruit. Drought-resistant, undemanding to soil fertility.

Rosehip hedges

They can be either free-growing (with trimming of protruding sides if necessary) or molded.


The difference is this: in the first option there will be more luxurious flowering and abundant fruiting.

Prickly plum, or thorn

A densely branched shrub with numerous spines, from 50 cm to 4 m in height, familiar to many.

Plum or blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) characterized by matte elliptical leaves 2-4 cm long and white flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, arranged in groups of 1-2, blooming in April-May, before the leaves.

Decorative form: "Atropurpurea" - red-purple leaves, pale pink flowers. Many of you have tried the juicy blue-black, tart drupes with a bluish coating, used them for soaking and making liqueurs.

Thorn hedges

They can be either molded or free-growing; different heights are maintained by cutting.

Often, it was precisely such hedges that not only protected Russian estates at the beginning of the 20th century, but at the same time also fulfilled a utilitarian role: they were melliferous, pergonum-bearing and fruit-bearing compacted plantings. Control over the spread of root suckers is required.

In addition, impassable thorny hedges and walls can be built from hawthorns, which were discussed here.


Stephen's hawthorn for prickly hedges,photo
I hope that getting to know trees and shrubs for thorny hedges was not only pleasant, but also useful for you!

Kinds best shrubs for hedges

A living fence made of shrubs is most often used for landscaping the area in landscape design, as a demarcation of different zones on the site or to fence the area from prying eyes. Such plants have different lengths and heights, which allows you to build a beautiful green fence that is impenetrable to strangers.

In this article we will look at the main types of bushes suitable for these purposes.

Why is it better to choose bushes for a living fence?

The hedge can be formed in the form of a low-growing border, as well as a dense fence 2-3 meters high, wild-growing or of a certain shape. Bushes are optimal for:

  • the formation of various zones on the site, for example, areas for privacy and relaxation;
  • curbs along paths;
  • external and internal delimitation of territory;
  • protecting the area from prying eyes, dust and noise;
  • focusing attention on certain areas of the garden.


A living fence made of bushes can be given any shape: elliptical, round, pyramidal, etc. by cutting. This type of fence is decorative and is suitable for draping an old picket fence. Shrubs grow quickly, you can select plants of different heights and splendor with different flowering periods, and plant them in one, two or more rows. The result will be a lush, green fence that blooms throughout the warm season.

Types of shrubs for living fencing

For hedges, plants are selected that are unpretentious and shade-tolerant. This is especially true for dense multi-row fences. For fences of a certain shape, bushes are selected that can easily withstand pruning. When selecting, take into account the growth rate of the variety and the shape of the crown. Plant height varies from 10 cm to 6 m.

Evergreen options

Evergreen bushes in winter are covered with the same elegant foliage as in warm weather. Some of them bloom beautifully. Some types of evergreens need shelter for the winter in the absence of snow, for example, boxwood or cherry laurel. Shrubs of European varieties do not require shelter. They go well with coniferous trees and deciduous plants.

  • Rhododendron well suited for forming a fence on the north side of the site or in the northeast. It is recommended to combine with plants that have a tap root system. Some varieties on open areas are susceptible to being burned by spring sun rays, so they need to be shaded or a hedge should be laid in shaded areas. The first year after planting, the plants need to be watered thoroughly. Further maintenance is minimal. Feed with fertilizers for rhododendrons.
  • Mahonia attracts with evergreen glossy leaves and fragrant flowers. The aroma of flowers resembles the smell of blooming lilies of the valley. The berries are dark purple with a bluish bloom, edible and used in winemaking and cooking. Blooms in November-March depending on the variety and region. Easily tolerates frost even during flowering. Suitable for hedges: Oregon grape, Japanese mahonia, Wagner and creeping.
  • Heather decorative during the flowering period, especially when the inflorescences are crushed by snow. The height of the bush is approximately 1 m and above. Color variations are different: yellow, white, lilac. Unpretentious, does not require systematic feeding. Tall branches can bend on their own, taking root in the ground. Only dense hedges need moderate pruning before buds appear. For the winter, the roots are covered with sawdust, dry leaves or peat.

The following video describes in detail how to create a hedge from evergreens:

thorny bushes

Thorny bushes are optimally suited for forming an impenetrable external hedge. Most of them tolerate shearing well, but look spectacular growing wild. Some species grow wide and require careful pruning and growth control.

  • Blackthorn- a highly branching winter-hardy plant up to 4 m high. Undemanding in care. Forms dense impenetrable hedges that protect the area from gusts of wind. Suitable for external fencing of the territory. It blooms with abundant white flowers before the leaves appear, and bears fruit in August. The fruits are edible.
  • Sea ​​buckthorn- an undemanding shrub to care for. Propagates well by seeds. Looks beautiful as a hedge planted in two rows. The fruits in combination with the leaves are very decorative. They are edible and have healing properties. Requires systematic pruning to form fence boundaries, which reduces yield.
  • Roses- thorny bushes of varying heights. Under this name, many low-growing, standard and climbing varieties are united. A wide range allows you to create both an impenetrable living fence and a beautiful border. Some varieties need to be covered for the winter. They tolerate pruning well. Decorative during flowering period.

Roses as a hedge

Tall bushes

Tall options allow you to form hedges 3-5 m high. Such plants grow quickly, which allows you to form a fence within 2-3 years. To form a uniform hedge, it is recommended to combine them with plants of different sizes. The hedge needs height control.

  • Lilac tall varieties attract landscapers with their captivating aroma and decorative qualities during the flowering period. Easy to care for, grows on any soil. Needs sanitary pruning, winter-hardy. A high hedge can be formed from bushes with different shapes and colors of buds.
  • Aronia chokeberry grows 2.5-3 m high, forming dense hedges. It blooms in June-July with white or pink flowers. The fruits are edible, but in limited quantities due to the large amount of ascorbic acid they contain, they have healing properties, and are suitable for harvesting. Winter-hardy and unpretentious. Very decorative, especially when the fruits ripen. Suitable for wild hedges, does not require frequent pruning.
  • Elder- shrub up to 4 m high. Blooms in May-June. Many white inflorescences create a powerful, intoxicating aroma. The fruits have healing properties. Red and black varieties are suitable for high hedges. Mice cannot tolerate it. There are several forms of elderberry bushes, such as weeping and pyramidal. Unpretentious and winter-hardy.

Tall lilac

Shade-loving bushes

Shade-loving options are most often used to form arbors and hedges in combination with tall plants. It’s nice to relax in such a corner in hot weather. Shade-loving bushes also need sunlight, but differ in the degree of shade tolerance. They are divided into shade-loving and shade-tolerant. The difference is that shade-loving bushes prefer shady places, and shade-tolerant bushes tolerate slight shading.

  • Honeysuckle- frost-resistant shrub up to 2.5 meters high. It easily grows in width and height after the age of 4 years, so this fact must be taken into account when laying a hedge. The flowering plant tolerates early frosts. The fruits are edible and ripen at different times. Until the age of seven, it does not require pruning. Practically not affected by pests and diseases.
  • Hazel- shade-tolerant, suitable for places with slight shading, while the amount of harvest depends on the degree of illumination of the planting. Needs fertilizing with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, as well as sanitary pruning. For a hedge, a crown of 4-8 branches is formed. Only annual branches bear fruit; this must be taken into account when pruning. It is recommended to rejuvenate annually by cutting out up to 3 old trunks.
  • Mexican jasmine attracts gardeners with its citrus aroma during the flowering period, and it blooms several times per season. Does not tolerate heavy haircuts. Can grow in full shade. Needs protection from frost. It grows slowly, reaches a height of up to 3 m.

Jasmine fence

Low-growing options

Low-growing shrubs grow from 0.5 m to 1 m in height. They are optimal for delimiting zones on a site and forming borders along paths. Their crown shape is varied. Many people tolerate haircuts very well. The border can be formed untrimmed, freely growing in one or two rows without losing its aesthetic appearance.

  • Japanese quince low- a small shrub with arched branches covered with thorns. When planted in two rows, it will protect the area from the penetration of animals. Winter-hardy. Very decorative during the flowering period and when the golden fruits ripen. The fruits are fragrant and hang on the branches until late autumn. Unpretentious, the crown can be given any shape by cutting.
  • Deytsia graceful grows to a height of no more than 80 cm. Retains its decorative appearance in a wild-growing form due to the flowing branches blooming with small white flowers. Depending on the species, the leaves have different colors: variegated, green and golden. The bush is not damaged by pests.
  • Cinquefoil shrub- a universal long-flowering shrub. Yellow, yellow-orange or white flowers last on the branches for about 100 days. Unpretentious. Multiple fruits resemble buttons covered with fine hairs. Winter-hardy and drought-resistant. On hot days it is recommended to spray.

Low fence

Decorative bushes

Decorative varieties differ from other species in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. They look beautiful throughout the warm season. In various combinations, plants can highlight the features of the landscape. This category includes evergreen and deciduous plants. They are divided into decorative-leaved and decorative-flowering. The distance between specimens should be equal to twice the height of adult bushes. With such planting, many varieties do not require care and will be attractive growing wild.

  • Weigela attracts attention with dark green rich foliage. Blooms in May-June. Unpretentious and frost-resistant. Not damaged by pests. In autumn it is decorative due to its bright red berries, which remain on the branches for most of the winter.
  • Hydrangea attracts landscapers with a wide variety of color shades. It gets along well in full shade and partial shade, and combines with trees. The inflorescences are large, up to 25 cm in diameter. Loves loose soil and needs shelter for the winter. Withstands haircuts very well. The bush is very spreading, with a dome diameter of up to 1.5 m.
  • Barberry Tumberga Attracts with blue-gray foliage. It cuts perfectly, allowing you to create hedges of unusual shapes. It can be grown wild without losing its aesthetic qualities. Blooms up to 20 days. Winter-hardy and unpretentious. The crown has a spherical shape. Bush height up to 70 cm.

Hydrangea hedge

Fast growing species

Fast growing plants allow you to form beautiful fence in 2-3 years. Most often, vines and other climbing plants are used for this purpose. They are decorative throughout the warm period and do not require frequent pruning. By intertwining plants, you can create an impassable hedge of any height. It will perfectly hide the area from prying eyes. For decoration finished fence annuals are planted.

  • Clematis- look spectacular during the flowering period. The color range is varied. They love sunny places. Ideal for fast growing hedges. For the winter, the root collar is covered, but sawdust cannot be used for this. A chic fence is formed in 2-3 years. You can control growth by pinching shoots. Pinching inhibits growth for 2-3 months.
  • Common hop especially beautiful with cones on the branches. It grows up to 7 m in height and attaches itself to the surface with the help of thorns on the stem. Does not require pruning. Unpretentious and frost-resistant. Used in medicine. Needs control of root growth and systematic watering.
  • Aubert's Highlander- the fastest growing variety, requires constant pruning. Unpretentious, but can freeze in cold weather. Easily restored after freezing. It blooms in June-July with small whitish-greenish flowers. Suitable for hedging in partial shade, grows well in full sun. Valued by landscapers for its dense, bright green foliage.

Fast growing living fence

Unpretentious shrubs

Unpretentious bushes not only grow well in any soil, but also easily recover after heavy pruning and freezing. Many of them easily take root in shaded areas. They tolerate heat and city conditions well.

  • Schmidt's currant Ideal for medium-sized hedges. Has a curly crown. It tolerates haircuts well and allows you to create three-dimensional sculptures. Suitable for laying a fence in the shade, frost-resistant. It produces small fruits that are not used as food due to their poor taste.
  • Snowberry allows you to form a fence 1.5-2 m high. Thin curved shoots look impressive during the fruiting period. The fruits are small, white, and remain on the plant until frost. Unpretentious to soil and planting site, grows well in deep shade. It tolerates pruning well, but does not bloom or bear fruit.
  • Chubushnik attracts with its beauty during the flowering period and its luxurious aroma. Flowers and leaves of various sizes and textures. There are terry forms that are less fragrant. Suitable for hedges up to 2 m high. Suitable for sunny areas and partial shade. Unpretentious and frost-resistant.

Fence made of mock orange

Planting and cutting basics

Before laying a hedge, determine for what purpose it is needed. Based on this, they decide what height the green fence will be formed. For borders and low fences, low and medium-sized plants are selected. Coniferous bushes, vines and thorny plants are suitable for external fences. Annuals are only suitable for decorating an existing fence.

When choosing bushes, pay attention to compatibility of varieties with each other. Not all shrubs can get along with each other. A hedge can be formed from both a variety of varieties of one plant and various combinations of different bushes. Most often, shrubs of different heights are combined. The result is a uniform hedge that protects the area from prying eyes and visitors.

Different flowering periods allow you to create a fence that will bloom throughout the warm season.

The distance between bushes depends on the diameter of the crown of adult plants and ranges from 0.5-1.5 m. Ornamental plants are planted at a distance equal to twice the height of an adult bush. Dense impenetrable hedges are formed in 2-3 rows, planting bushes in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the rows is maintained at about 0.5 m. The size of the hole for the bush should be more roots approximately 20-50 cm. You can plant in a trench 60 cm wide for a single-row hedge, plus 40-50 cm for each subsequent row.


When planting bushes, humus and fertilizers are added to the hole in accordance with the type of plant. In this case, the young plants are not fertilized for the first 1-2 years. During this period, shrubs are systematically watered; some plants need spraying in hot weather. The formation of the fence is carried out in the second or third year after planting, when the plants have grown.

Some bushes need control over their spreading width, such as hops and raspberries. Such species are not planted on the boundary with someone else's site.

Climbing varieties intertwine with each other as they grow. Sanitary pruning of bushes is carried out either in the spring before the growing season, or in the fall, cutting out shoots older than 4-5 years for rejuvenation. When forming the shape of the hedge, they take into account which shoots and in what place the flower buds are formed. In some plants they form on the apical shoots, in others - only on annual branches. Improper pruning will result in a lack of flowering and fruiting. Some varieties, such as hydrangea, require the flowers to be removed as they dry out. Some bushes need shelter for the winter, for example, boxwood and clematis.

Photo gallery of living bush fences

The photo below shows various bushes from which living fences are formed in country and suburban areas:

Perfect for decorative and fast-growing perennial hedges willow. The plant is growing really quickly. The branches can be intertwined, as they are very smooth and pliable. It is possible to form a kind of hedge from natural wattle fence.

Willows take root in many climatic zones; any soil suitable for plants is suitable for them. In swampy areas that are flooded during spring floods, trees quickly develop an extensive root system.

It is imperative to monitor the amount of moisture; in arid climates, the bush must be watered regularly. Plantings can withstand shearing, so you can give them the desired appearance.

If you plant several willows on a site, you can understand their varieties and plant several types, designing them according to size and shades. Weeping willow is most suitable for weaving branches. Purple willow, goat willow, holly willow and red willow look best when tangled together. To make a variegated fence, you need to plant several trees, avoiding repeating species, then sequentially form their crown or allow natural patterns to develop.

Can be used for hedges fast growing shrubs. In addition to being decorative, some varieties bring significant benefits. Berries grow on their branches, for which you don’t have to go to the forest or to the store. You can make jam from fruits grown on your own plot. Barberry is often planted. It grows quite quickly and can be cut into any possible shape. Aromatic and quite tasty jam is made from its berries.

From turn You can use one of the fastest ways to form a hedge. You don’t have to monitor the conditions of its maintenance; it is advisable to water it during drought and monitor the fertilization of the soil, however, even without proper care, the thorn can not lose its shape for quite a long time. Having planted the bushes at the same distance, you don’t have to deal with their further formation for a long time, since they grow quite compactly. It is very difficult to get through this fence. You can get original, tart fruits. You can make excellent jam, unusual tkemali sauce and liqueur from them.

Rosehip and tea rose include many useful qualities. You can alternate bushes when planting through one or in a certain pattern. They grow quickly and are able to provide valuable vitamins for the winter. Rosehip tea will provide a large dose of vitamin C; tea rose jam is used to treat inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity, as well as sore throats and colds. Its petals can be used to make an aromatic liqueur with a bright red hue.

If you leave rose hips for the winter, they will decorate the area and also become food for birds.

Photo of a wild rose hedge.

Tall shrubs for hedges

Derain white- this is a bright, living hedge that grows quickly up to 3 m, you can maintain a given height of 1.2 m. Flowers can be seen 2 times per season. Once in June, and the second in August. The flower baskets are milky in color. As they grow, they form clusters of berries that are blue with a slight yellow coating, and birds flock to them.

In winter, you can notice the cherry-red tint of the branches, which looks especially beautiful against the background of snow. The hedge can be grown both in the shade and in the sun, requires little watering, and is very hardy. The close location of groundwater does not become an obstacle to its active growth and flowering.

To prevent the hedge from spreading more than 1 m in width, it is necessary to trim its lower branches.

oval reaches 3 m in height unless regularly trimmed. Blooms already in May. Bright yellow bells form before the leaves appear. Gives an elegant look to the area. In cold climates, oval or ovoid forsythia are considered the most persistent. If you do not use a haircut, the crown will be oval.

Privet hedge ordinary reaches up to 2 m in height. It can grow up to 50 cm per year. Quite unpretentious. Bush immediately after cutting. Pruning must be carried out constantly, since the bush will not grow evenly without additional correction. If you let the plant take its course, it will look quite interesting, white flowers will appear, and by autumn berries will appear, but eating them is prohibited. The bush is so dense that it can sometimes be compared to the texture of a wall.

The plant is quite strong, so it does not need frequent and abundant watering.

Video of a privet hedge.

Evergreen shrubs for hedges

Boxwood compact and versatile. They can be used to plant the edges of areas adjacent to roads. It is possible to delimit several zones with the help of shrubs for separate planting, for example, vegetables and flowers. With its help you can create a composition with your own design.

They can be planted in dull, dark places in the garden, located under trees or near tall buildings. Many varieties take root well in well-drained soils.

To prevent the leaves from burning from bright sunlight, in clear weather the soil should be well moistened.

Video of cutting a boxwood hedge.

Fatsia It is notable for its bright, glossy leaves that completely cover the thick, strictly vertical trunks. The shrub is quite hardy, so it is suitable for planting in shady areas of the garden. The stems are cream-colored, they are placed in spherical umbrellas, and are formed in early autumn. Bees often flock to them, so this will be an excellent option for beekeepers.

Lavender It is grown quite often by gardeners, as it has fragrant flowers and interesting green foliage with a silver tint. May be purple or pink. The shrub is quite hardy and versatile. They can be edged and bordered or grown in containers. Butterflies and bees flock to the flowers. The flowers create a spectacular contrast with dark-colored shrubs due to the presence of silvery, light leaves.

Thorn bushes for hedges

Hawthorn allows you to form a real thorny fence. Many of these flowers have thorns; you can pay attention to varieties of American origin. A mature bush grows quite tall, so it can become an obstacle, for example, for neighboring animals in the country. Large-thorned hawthorn grows up to 5-6 m if no measures are taken to trim it.

The average length of each spine is 1.2 cm. Siberian hawthorn does not have such impressive spines. Some plants have wide, strongly spreading foliage, combining it with small spines.

Mahonia endowed with naturally spiny leaves. Their rich green color combines brightly with yellow, small but common flowers. They appear already at the end of the winter months. The flowers are located on long racemes or the ends of graceful branches. They can add brightness to the entire garden at a time when other plants are still dormant. The only condition is to plant them as often as possible.

You can place flowers on the shore of a pond, near strong shade. Clay soils are not an obstacle to their excellent flowering. Bees flock to them. There are varieties that grow very low and can therefore be used as ground cover.

Principia chinensis It has decorative, unusual foliage and beautiful flowering. The bush is very lush, the crown is semicircular, some branches can lie scattered.

It boasts small but interesting flowers, which later produce small berries similar to cherries. Used medicinally as a strong tonic. An unpretentious and frost-resistant shrub, easily grown in mid-latitudes.

Photos of hedges from bushes. Shrubs for hedges.

Proper planting and proper care of fast-growing shrubs will allow significantly improve your own garden and any plot of land. By choosing the right variety of plants, you can decorate your yard to your own taste.

How to make a fast-growing hedge in your country house?

A hedge looks especially beautiful on summer days. It will not only protect the site from outsiders, but will also help to form certain zones for various purposes on it.

For a green fence, you can use various growing materials: shrubs, climbing plants and trees. Properly selected plants will delight you with greenery and flowering for many years without losing their decorative qualities with regular care.

Approximate timing of hedge formation

A hedge of plants that grow quickly can be arranged from several types of plantings. Such a fence requires constant care both during the growth of just planted shoots and during the already formed fence. Plants for a hedge are selected so that the hedge is of the same height and density. After all, different types of greenery grow unevenly - some specimens stretch upward, others manage to grow in width during this time.

A full two-meter hedge can be formed from fast-growing perennial plants in about 2 years.

Plants are selected so that they fence off the area, but do not penetrate into the neighboring area. Both perennials and annuals are used for hedges. Annual plants must be replanted annually, which is not always acceptable. Annuals are also not suitable for fencing the outside of the site.

Fast growing shrubs

Fast-growing bushes are the optimal solution for forming a dense hedge in a short time. Suitable for fencing an area from the outside specimens with spines. The result will be an impenetrable fence that will qualitatively protect the territory from uninvited guests and animals. Can be selected not only ornamental shrubs, but also fruit-bearing ones. You will receive both a luxurious fence and preparations for the winter.

Shrubs are selected taking into account the characteristics of the site, soil composition and climate. Different types of bushes can be arranged together.

The specimens are selected so that the resulting fence is approximately the same size. Some shrubs have a negative attitude towards removing the tops. Next, we will consider the most suitable types for a fast-growing hedge.

Dogwood

Shade-tolerant and unpretentious shrub. It is ideal for external hedges. It has beautiful leaves and decorative fruits that are edible. Due to their nutritional properties, the berries are used in folk medicine. The height of the bush is 2-5 m. It blooms from March to April for about two weeks, then the leaves bloom. It bears fruit abundantly in open areas and neutral soil, but grows well under any other conditions.

It is planted in spring or early summer. You can lay out a dogwood hedge in the fall, but no later than 3 weeks before frost. When planting in autumn, leaves are removed from seedlings. Specimens under two years of age are suitable for planting a hedge. Autumn planting can be covered with foliage for the winter.

Viburnum-leaved bladderwort

An unpretentious shrub with excellent decorative qualities. The plant has a lush rounded crown. It can grow in the shade, but the leaves lose their rich color. The bush is perfect for urban hedges located along highways.

Container specimens are suitable for laying hedges. They can be planted throughout the warm period. Frost-resistant, does not require shelter. Only in very severe frosts can the tips of the shoots freeze.

Barberry

A thorny shrub that can grow in any soil and is drought-resistant. Has a bad attitude towards stagnant water in the area. Thanks to the thorns, an impenetrable fence is formed.

Both low-growing and tall varieties are used for hedges. The plant is decorative, especially during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen. For the fence you will need a large amount of material. The fruits are suitable for home preparation.

Turn

Unpretentious and undemanding in care. The bushes are compact, up to 3 m high, and do not require careful pruning. The fence turns out to be thick and impenetrable. The fruits are edible after frost and have medicinal properties. The hedge is especially beautiful in the spring during the flowering period, when the leaves have not yet blossomed on it. It attracts with its almond aroma.

When laying a hedge, each bush is trimmed, leaving a height of up to 15 cm. This measure allows you to accelerate the growth of the bush. To obtain an impenetrable fence, pruning can be repeated next year. Next, maintain the desired height.

climbing plants

For a fast-growing hedge, you can take annuals, provided that they are placed on a support as a decorative element. They are sown quite densely. Such plants will not protect the territory from animals and strangers, but will carefully hide it from unwanted eyes. The plants are renewed every year.

Suitable for one-year fence kobeya, sweet peas, morning glory (twisted panych), decorative beans, nasturtium and others. They are intertwined with each other, resulting in a solid green flowering panel up to 5 m high, depending on the type of annuals.

The following types of perennial plants are also popular.

Climbing (climbing) roses

Very decorative during the flowering period. The fence made from them is impenetrable due to the thorns and interweaving of the vines. It is recommended to separate the bush a little from other flowers. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water. It should not be planted in places where groundwater is located closer than 2 m.

The laying of the fence is carried out in the fall until mid-October. The appearance of the hedge is formed from the second year after planting the bushes. Plants are tied up. A horizontal garter gives only height growth, a vertical garter gives a large number of shoots. This must be taken into account when forming the density of the fence.

Clematis

Decorative throughout the warm period. To lay the fence, use bushes no older than two years old; they are planted in the fall. Plants grow optimally in open areas. Clematis does not tolerate acidic soils, overwatering and constant dampness, or fertilization with peat and manure. In hot weather, the soil must be protected from overheating by mulching with humus.

In order for clematis to bloom profusely, they must be pruned. For the winter, the bushes are covered, since the root collar of the bush is susceptible to freezing, especially those parts that have not yet risen to the surface.

Honeysuckle

Decorative bush up to 6 m high. Attracts landscapers with its high decorative qualities throughout the warm season. The hedge can be formed from various varieties of honeysuckle. The result will be a flowering fence in various shades: yellow, carmine red, rose red and orange-yellow. Pairs beautifully with climbing roses.

The fruits are edible; in some varieties they fall off on their own. For the first 5-7 years, only sanitary pruning is needed; the crown of the hedge is formed at a later age.

Ivy

It is decorative due to its foliage, which develops in large quantities. Hedges can be composed of different plant varieties. The bush tolerates shade well, but in too shaded places it loses its foliage. Does not tolerate scorching sun rays. Ivy is not picky about soil, pruning and care, the main thing is that the soil does not dry out.

Trees for fast-growing fencing

Eucalyptus

Among the trees, the fastest growing is eucalyptus. For landscaping, the varieties Gunny, few-flowered and lemon are used. They are undemanding to soil and drought-resistant. The height of the hedge is adjusted by pruning. It is recommended to cover it for the winter. Do not allow the soil to dry out.

Willow

Suitable as a fast-growing hedge, unpretentious to soil quality. Some varieties can be shaped into a bush by cutting the trunk. There are low-growing and dwarf trees, for example, purple willow, goat willow; they are very decorative as a green fence, but love moisture. It is recommended to spray the hedge in hot weather.

Aspen

It is unpretentious and grows in any soil. The hedge is formed from young shoots no older than a year. The branches are intertwined with each other, creating an impenetrable fence. The tree does not require maintenance. The height of the hedge is controlled by pruning; in this case, a lot of growth appears. Over time, aspen boletuses appear under such a fence.

Field maple

Suitable for hedges 2-4 m high. Does not tolerate acidic soil. It grows equally in the sun and in the shade, and easily tolerates drought and heat. Reacts well to haircuts. It is pruned twice a year, removing thick woody branches. The entire warm period is very decorative, especially in autumn.


You can learn about other types of fast-growing trees from the following video:

Undesirable plants for hedges

It is not recommended to use plants for hedges that grow strongly in different directions, digging into the soil. Such instances include raspberries and blackberries, serviceberry, fieldfare and the like. Such plants should not be planted on the border with another site. They are very difficult to control by pruning.

It is not recommended to plant bushes as a hedge that are susceptible to attack by pests and diseases, for example, viburnum. It is difficult to treat a dense fence with chemicals during an “epidemic”; moreover, such treatment is harmful to health. Such a fence quickly loses its beautiful appearance due to pests; it is extremely difficult to completely protect it from diseases.

Not recommended for fast-growing hedges non-winter-hardy perennials. Frozen specimens will need to be systematically replaced; in severe frosts, the hedge may completely die. You should not plant plants that you need replant periodically. Such a hedge gradually degenerates, losing its original appearance.

Planting and care

Initially, the territory is marked out. Material for a fast-growing hedge can be planted in two ways: dig a trench at least 40 cm deep and 60-100 cm wide, depending on the number of rows, or dig holes for each specimen separately. The planting step is chosen depending on the type of plants.

The minimum distance between specimens for single-row planting is 25 cm for climbing varieties, for shrubs 0.5-1.5 m, for trees - from 1.5 m. For double-row planting, the planting step is from 0.5 m.

It is recommended to replace the soil in the hole with a nutrient composition. The mixture is prepared according to the needs of the plant species. The crown of the hedge is formed during the first 4 years. Not all types of plants need pruning after planting. Typically, in the first 2 years, pruning is not used for climbing varieties and some shrubs. Some plant species, such as conifers, require pyramidal pruning to prevent lower branches from falling off. All types of plants require systematic watering and fertilizing during the period of rooting and growth.

A barbed fence is the most reliable fence. If you can climb over a fence of any height, then no one will dare to climb over a thorny fence in this way. What plants can such a fence consist of?

How to grow hawthorn in a hedge

Hawthorn for hedges is a godsend. It is prickly, beautiful both in flowering and with fruits (which, moreover, are medicinal), and is easily formed by pruning. If the soil is heavy, hawthorn will not mind, as long as it is sufficiently fertilized. Good drainage is desirable - the roots of the plant will not tolerate dampness well. When preparing planting holes, we place a layer of gravel or crushed stone (15-20 cm) at the bottom, and fill it with ordinary garden soil mixed with sand and humus (3:1:2). You can add a little lime. Planting - in spring or autumn with two-year-old seedlings.

Areas well illuminated by the sun are especially loved by this plant - it develops well there, blooms and bears abundantly (hawthorn growing in the shade produces very few berries).

Pruning is done in the spring, leaving 1/3 of the length of the shoots. Feeding - at the end of April-May with diluted slurry or complete mineral fertilizer, watering in dry weather once every 1-1.5 months (for an adult bush 10-12 liters).


For this you should choose large-thorned hawthorn, Siberian hawthorn (blood-red), and round-leaved hawthorn. The easiest way to propagate a plant is by layering, root cuttings, but you can also use seeds.

How to grow barberry in a hedge

For tall hedges, Ottawa barberry, common barberry (purple-leaved form) and Amur barberry are most often used. Thunberg barberry, which grows up to 80 cm-1 m, is good for multi-layer hedges, as well as as dividing plantings. All of these are very decorative and lend themselves well to pruning.

Barberries are often planted in early spring, while the buds have not yet bloomed. If planting is in autumn, it is carried out during the period when the leaves fly off the trees.

The planting hole is filled with a substrate of garden soil mixed with sand, humus or compost (1:1:1). If the soil is acidic, add a glass of ash or lime under the bushes (be sure to mix well with the substrate). Add superphosphate (80 g per bush).

If you are planning a dense hedge, plant it in a trench 30-40 cm wide and deep.

Water regularly until the seedlings take root, then as needed, for example, if there is no rain for a month. Since hawthorn bushes are thorny, loosening the ground under them will be problematic, so use mulching.

Barberries are not averse to “feeding”. It is useful to top up the bushes 1-2 times per season with slurry or infusion of bird droppings diluted with complete mineral fertilizer. In September, each bush can be fed with superphosphate (15 g) and potassium fertilizer (10 g).

Formation of barberries begins in the second year after planting. Further as necessary. Since flowers bloom on last year's shoots, pruning is carried out after flowering. Reproduction - by dividing the bush and cuttings.

Young barberries are covered with dry leaves or spruce branches for the winter; Thunberg barberry can first be protected with lutrasil or burlap.

How to grow rose hips in a hedge

Rose hips should be planted in areas where there is a lot of sun and groundwater does not rise too high. In this case, the bushes will develop well, bloom, and bear fruit. When planting plants in a hedge, dig sheets of slate, metal, or plastic along it to a depth of at least 30 cm - as they grow, the rosehip roots can produce a lot of shoots. We maintain a distance between seedlings of about 50 cm.

We start forming bushes after 2 years in the spring, and in the future we do it only at this time of year: cuttings that have barely lingered after pruning do not tolerate frost well. Rosehip pruning is basically thinning out bushes, cutting out old, improperly growing branches. Keep in mind: severe shortening of rosehip branches provokes the appearance of a large number of shoots.

Watering plants - only if there is no rain for a long time. We feed young plants 2-3 times a season with organic matter or mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content; adult bushes can be treated with humus or compost once every 3-4 years.

The easiest way to propagate plants is in spring or autumn by root suckers: plants about 25 cm high are separated from an adult bush with a shovel and planted in a new place. If the task is to propagate rose hips with seeds, they are selected from not fully ripened, brown-colored berries, sown in rows before winter, covered with leaves, sawdust or humus. If sowing is postponed until spring, we sow the seeds in boxes in sand and peat (4:1), which we place in a room with a temperature no higher than +2 0C (possibly in a cellar).

How to Grow Sloes in a Hedge

The sloe is winter-hardy and low (bushes up to 3 m). The prickly plum (as this plant is also called) is ideal for creating a hedge. Especially its decorative varieties: purple, red-leaved, terry. Flowers appear 3-4 years after planting, always attracting many bees (sloes are honey plants). Grows well in the sun, loves loose, fertile soil with good drainage.

When arranging a hedge, plant seedlings at a distance of 1-1.5 m. After planting, trim the plant to a height of 10-15 cm to stimulate the appearance more shoots. Next comes the annual spring formative pruning.

If you plan to collect fruits, water once a week. It is advisable to feed the plant once a year - with humus, manure or infusion of chicken manure. Bushes can be easily propagated by root suckers (shoots), seeds or summer green cuttings.



 
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