How to seal a plastic bucket. Repairing a cracked stock neck How to seal a cracked stock

You went into the bathroom, and there was a puddle on the floor next to the ceramic toilet, and you were completely unaware of what could be causing it? If the gasket at the inlet is leaking cistern, work for a couple of minutes, it’s another matter when the problem arose due to a crack in the same tank or the bowl of the plumbing fixture itself.

In this case, it will be different light work, which may even result in a complete replacement of equipment. If you want to find out how to repair a crack and what you can use to glue a toilet together yourself, read our article further.

What could have happened

Before we find out how to seal a ceramic toilet, let's understand where our crack came from so as not to waste time.

Falling objects In a cramped bathroom in a city apartment, everyone wants to make the most of its space. Therefore, a cabinet with different household chemicals, and often with tools. If you are careless, they can fall into the toilet, causing it to immediately crack.
Sudden temperature change Ceramics do not like sudden changes in temperature. In this case, an uneven expansion of the material is created, which increases internal stresses in it. The result of such actions is a crack. This can happen due to a faulty mixer when pipes with cold water hot water will begin to flow. Plastic parts at the same time they will begin to deform. After this it will pour again cold water, because of which cracks may appear, and you will have to think about how to seal the toilet tank.
Incorrect assembly
  1. No effort should be made to large quantities during the process.
  2. Make sure the bolts are evenly tightened.

Otherwise, these two conditions will become harbingers of cracks. In this case, the tank and toilet may burst after a period of time, even a very long one.

  1. Close the toilet lid. A seemingly simple operation will help protect the bowl from foreign objects getting into it, which can cause chips and cracks. In addition, your valuables will also not fall into the water.
  2. Do not pour hot liquid into the toilet; be sure to let it cool. Agree, purchasing a new toilet and installing it will cost much more than an old pot or pan.
    This also applies in winter. You should not direct water at a temperature of 80-90˚ into the toilet bowl.

Tip: if there is no other way to remove water from the heating radiators, push the hose into the sewer riser.

  1. During assembly, make sure there are no distortions and do not use excessive force., remember that the product is made of clay, not metal or wood. If the toilet tank is cracked, you will find out how to seal it in the article below.

So, we found out what can mainly lead to cracks in ceramic toilet or tank. Now let's move on to their repair.

How to glue a toilet and cistern together yourself

We use universal glue

This method will help to repair the product when a fragment breaks off, which is not related to ensuring tightness. For example, part of the base and an eyelet for attaching a shelf.

Buy any universal glue from a trustworthy manufacturer, its price cannot be low. “Supermoment” from Henkel is quite suitable.

The instructions are as follows:

  1. Clean the surface of the defect from crumbs and dust.
  2. Let the product dry completely.
  3. Degrease surfaces with gasoline or acetone.
  4. Apply glue and press the broken piece. Fix in any way for the time specified in the instructions for the composition.

Advice: you should not load the adhesive joint, since it will be much inferior in strength to solid earthenware.

The crack is only on the outside

In this case, consider the moment when an object fell into the toilet bowl and damaged it. It is better to replace universal glue with a two-component one. epoxy resin.

So, how to glue a toilet:

  1. Prepare the components - resin and hardener, as well as a container for mixing them.
  2. Dry the surfaces to be glued thoroughly.
  3. Turn off the water supply to the tank, install a fan, and wipe off any drops. Make sure the gluing area is completely dry.
  4. Degrease surfaces.

  1. Mix the resin and hardener together according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  2. Apply glue to the surfaces to be glued.
  3. Be sure to secure the gluing area in any way. For example, you can use regular tape, pecking it from the outside of the bowl.
  4. When the resin is dry, sand gently glue seams in a place where they are visible. First use M20 or M40 sandpaper, then felt. Otherwise, pollution will accumulate here.

The crack is visible on both sides of the bowl

Now we’ll find out how to seal a crack in the toilet, which affects its tightness. In this case, it is also necessary to prevent the defect from growing.

Prepare:

  • epoxy resin with hardener;
  • drill with a thin drill bit for tiles;
  • grinder with a disc for stone;
  • sandpaper and felt for sanding the gluing area.

All that remains is to find out how to seal a toilet with your own hands:

  1. Drill 2 thin through holes at the ends of the crack. This will stop it from lengthening.
  2. Using a grinder, select a recess along the entire crack approximately 50% of the thickness of the earthenware. At the same time, do not forget that overheating the material will only worsen the situation; it may begin to crack in other places. It doesn't matter where you do it - outside or inside the bowl, the crack will still be noticeable.

Plastic buckets, cans and tanks - things on summer cottage necessary. Often, in a dacha setting, it is not possible to replace an old burst plastic container with a new product, but, if desired, it can always be repaired. How this can be done is described below.

If the bottom of a plastic bucket has burst, there is no use trying to seal it. No glue will withstand the long-term pressure of liquid poured into a container, and over time, a crack in the plastic will certainly spread.

You can repair a broken bucket much more reliably by sealing the crack in it with another suitable piece of plastic.

For this you will need:
large and powerful soldering iron;
plastic tape, which, for example, can be cut from an unnecessary PET bottle, or a plastic clamp;
any detergent.


It is necessary to seal the crack both inside and outside the bucket, and it is recommended to start from the inside, since there the edges of the crack can be placed on top of each other quite tightly, resting them against the surface on which the bucket stands.


If you start working with outside cracks, then its edges will spring, fall through and it will be difficult to place them tightly on top of each other.


However, for ease of perception, we will still consider how to seal a crack on a plastic bucket from its outer side, keeping in mind that inside the container it is already closed.

So, in order to seal a plastic bucket:
1. Its surface around the crack is thoroughly washed and degreased.


2. Turn on the soldering iron, wait for it to warm up and move its tip along the crack with smooth movements left and right, without pressing on the plastic so as not to burn it. Thus, melting the plastic at the edges of the crack, the soldering iron tip passes along its entire length.


3. Lay down sequentially plastic tape onto the crack, starting from a point slightly further from its beginning. In this case, the tape is heated with a soldering iron so that the melted plastic fills the crack cavities, that is, figuratively speaking, it is sealed.



4. After soldering the cracks, a seam is obtained, which is additionally smoothed with a hot soldering iron, moving its tip along this kind of “welded” line.


This is how you can easily and without any special tricks seal a crack in a plastic bucket or any other container made of plastic. Inside the bucket, the seam is made using the same technology.


All that remains is to check whether it is leaking after repair.

Video of the process of sealing a crack on a plastic bucket:

If your glass has cracks, you can easily repair them at home. This repair can last on the glass for about three years and will not spoil its appearance. Also, water and other liquids do not deform the glass bonding area.

You will need

  • syringe;
  • silicone glue;
  • clear varnish;
  • acetone;
  • brush;
  • detergent;
  • clean cloth;
  • water;
  • cotton swab;
  • bucket.

Repair steps

1. First of all, you need to clean the glass from various contaminants and dust. Use water and detergent to clean the glass. To do this, dilute the product in warm water in the ratios specified in the instructions and start washing with rubber gloves so as not to damage the skin of your hands. Rinse the glass on both sides and then wipe it dry.

2. Wait and make sure all the water has dried, otherwise the glue will not be able to work.

3. Take a cotton swab and soak it in acetone, then gently wipe the glass to degrease. The glue will be applied to such a surface much better and will last for a very long time.

4. Now you can start sealing the crack. Use a syringe and fill it with some silicone glue, then fill the crack with it. It is best to do this slowly and carefully so that the glue is distributed throughout the damaged glass. You don’t need to take a syringe if the glue itself has a convenient attachment that will help evenly distribute the adhesive mixture.

5. Now you need to wait 1 day for the glue to dry completely. After this, you need to apply a small layer of transparent varnish to the crack on both sides. This can be done using a brush. Wait a few hours for the varnish to dry and the glass repair is complete.

  • Also read -

How to remove a crack on a windshield - video

Having broken plastic bumper on a VAZ car, the owner can relatively inexpensively purchase and install a new one, painted in suitable color. Owners of foreign cars are not so lucky; plastic body kits for their cars are much more expensive. The solution is to repair the damaged part by repairing the crack with your own hands in order to save money. It is also useful for owners of Russian cars to know about methods for restoring broken plastic, so as not to buy a new element due to small cracks.

Methods for sealing cracks

Depending on the amount of damage and the type of plastic, the following methods for cracked bumpers are practiced:

  • cosmetic bonding using acetone and donor plastic;
  • sealing with modern chemical compounds;
  • fastening with epoxy resin using fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
  • sealing the crack with a soldering iron reinforced with metal mesh;
  • welding using a hot air gun and a plastic rod.

Reference. There is one simple method used by car enthusiasts who are not too concerned about appearance cars. This is connecting the edges of a crack with wire or staples. This is a simple matter, which means there is no point in considering this technology, everything is already clear.

The use of acetone, which can dissolve many types of plastics, for gluing is a temporary measure used for small cracks that appear in the middle of the body kit. Its essence is this:

  1. Pieces of plastic similar in composition to the bumper material are selected and dissolved in acetone to a thick consistency.
  2. On the back side of the bumper, the crack is degreased and also treated with acetone to soften the surface.
  3. Liquefied plastic is applied to the damage with reverse side, after which it hardens for several hours. The outside of the defect can be touched up with a corrector tube.

Using thick two-component compounds, sold in two tubes, any single cracks in most types of plastic are sealed. An exception is body kits made of fiberglass; they are glued together with epoxy resin, and in case of serious damage, reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is used.

With numerous large cracks, breaks and holes in the bumper, gluing methods become ineffective. In such cases, soldering or welding with a hot air gun using donor material is practiced. polymer material. After such repairs, the defect area is thoroughly cleaned and painted in the color of the car. At the end, it is necessary to completely polish the bumper so that the painted area does not stand out against the background of the old coating.

Advice. If you get into an accident or collide with a stationary obstacle and break the body kit, try to collect all the flying pieces, except for the smallest ones. This will allow you to use “original” plastic for repairs and not look for something similar.

The preparatory process is little different for in various ways gluing and welding of polymer parts, so it is worth considering separately. The first question is whether it is necessary to remove the bumper to make repairs. In most cases, dismantling is not possible, since the plastic must be sealed on both sides. The exception is broken body kits, cracked in many places. They must first be fastened together and then removed. Otherwise, after repair, the part may lose its shape, causing the attachment points to not meet, and the gaps with adjacent elements will increase.

Reference. Often the bumper body comes off at the attachment points and small pieces of plastic remain on the screws. Before dismantling, such a part is securely welded to the torn fastener and only then removed.

To prepare a damaged body kit for repair, you need the following tools and materials:

  • a set of keys and screwdrivers for removing the element;
  • electric grinder;
  • sandpaper of different grain sizes - from P180 to P320;
  • degreasing liquid - organic solvent or white spirit;
  • rags.

Note. By using grinding machine You can perform cleaning better and much faster than manually. This and other power tools that will be needed for painting and polishing can be rented for 2-3 days.

Regardless of whether the work is carried out directly on the car or with the bumper removed, it must be thoroughly washed and dried. Then, using coarse sandpaper, you need to peel off the paint at a distance of 3-5 cm from the crack in each direction and sand the area with fine sandpaper. Whatever repair method you choose, the paint must be removed to the base, otherwise it will interfere with the adhesion of the glue or the fusion of polymers during welding. Finally, the area should be degreased.

Advice. The quality of body kit repair depends on the conditions in which it is performed. It is more convenient to repair damage in a garage equipped with an inspection ditch for easy removal of the part and soldering of the fallen fasteners in place.

Two-component bonding

For implementation this method You need to purchase the following bumper repair kit from the 3M brand:

  • 2 FPRM components for preparing liquid polymer in 150 ml tubes (price - about 2500 rubles);
  • special hard tape;
  • self-adhesive reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass (otherwise known as fiberglass) 48 mm wide;
  • adhesion initiator in an aerosol can;
  • 2 spatulas - wide and narrow;
  • stationery knife;
  • gloves, safety glasses.

Reference. Similar sets are offered by other manufacturers, but the 3M brand is the most well-known and proven in practice.

Bonding with liquid polymer is suitable for most plastics and can be performed both with the body kit removed and on the car. True, the second option is quite inconvenient, plus you will need good lighting V inspection hole. To cut a crack, you will need an electric drill (not a grinder!) with a mandrel for abrasive wheels. Repair consists of the following technological operations:

  1. Using a drill operating at low speed and abrasive wheel chamfer at an angle of about 30° along the edges of the crack on both sides. In cross section it looks something like this: “><».
  2. Degrease the area and allow time for the solvent to evaporate completely. On the front side of the bumper, where the paint has already been cleaned off at the preparatory stage, stick tape along the entire crack. It will serve as a kind of formwork when pouring a two-component solution.
  3. Treat the damaged area on the back side of the body kit with an adhesion initiator from a bottle, then apply a self-adhesive glass canvas over the split.
  4. Mix the components from the tubes in a 1:1 ratio using a spatula. Apply the liquid polymer to the mesh in several thin layers to prevent air pockets from forming. Apply the mixture until it completely covers the fiberglass.
  5. After laying the compound, give it 30 minutes to cure, then remove the tape from the front side and repeat the sealing operation (but without the mesh).
  6. After hardening, sand the area using a sandpaper alternately P180, P240 and P400. At this point, the plastic repair is complete and you can begin painting.

Important! After mixing the components, the composition must be used within 6 minutes, which is enough to apply to the damage on one side. The curing time of 30 minutes is correct for a room temperature of 21-23°C, so when working in a cold room, it is necessary to organize local heating of the bumper (for example, with an infrared heater).

If unevenness is noticeable on the front side of the element, then before painting, apply a little putty intended for plastic to the differences. After drying, sand it with P1500 sandpaper, degrease it and spray paint it, after applying a layer of primer. After 1 day, polish the surface of the body kit.

Sealing with liquid polymer - photo

After cutting, manual cleaning of the crack is required. The inside of the body kit must also be sanded. Cutting the edges of the crack at an angle. Adhesive tape is glued to the front side. Glass canvas is glued to the inside. From the end you can see how the tape limits the flow of the composition outward when applying 2 components are squeezed out onto a spatula in the same amount. Mixing the components with a spatula. The composition is rubbed into the crack and the mesh with a spatula. After hardening and removing the tape, the sealed joint is cleaned. This is what a sealed crack in plastic looks like

Video instructions for using 3M composition

Repair with fiberglass

The technology is used to eliminate damage to body kits made of fiberglass, since the previous method will not work in this case. What you will need for work:

  • fiberglass for bumper repairs;
  • polyester (epoxy) resin complete with hardener;
  • soft brush;
  • stationery knife or scissors;
  • rubber gloves.

Advice. If a bulge or depression has formed at the site of the impact, then immediately after cleaning, level it using a hair dryer to heat it.

Since fiberglass patches will have to be applied on both sides of the damaged area, it is better to remove the bumper from the car. After completing all the preparatory work, including stripping paint and degreasing, proceed in the following sequence:

  1. Using a grinder with coarse sandpaper (P80-P120), make a recess in the body of the bumper from the front side, covering a radius of 3-5 cm from the crack. This is necessary so that the fiberglass overlay does not ultimately protrude beyond the plane of the part.
  2. On the back side, sand with coarse sandpaper, but without deepening. Degrease the area and let it dry.
  3. Cut out patches from fiberglass. On the front part you need to make a neat patch that follows the shape of the recess, and on the back you can glue a rectangular overlay.
  4. Mix the resin and hardener in the proportions indicated on the package. Apply the composition with a brush to the surface, apply a patch (several layers are possible) and saturate it with resin.
  5. Carefully observe the time specified for curing the epoxy composition (written on the resin container), and then thoroughly clean the repair area with fine sandpaper. The task is to level the surface by removing protrusions.

Note. Initially, coarse sandpaper is used to create a roughness on the surface of the plastic that promotes better adhesion of the polyester adhesive.

At this point, the work on repairing the plastic itself is completed; then cleaning, priming and painting are carried out using standard technology. The last operation is polishing the bumper; it is necessary to give the element a uniform shine.

Photo of fiberglass body kit repair

Video about sealing defects with fiberglass

Soldering large bumper damage

Numerous cracks, breaks and torn bumper elements can be repaired using thermal methods, in particular soldering. To complete this painstaking work, a small set of tools and materials is required:

  • soldering iron with a power of at least 100 W with a wide tip and a wooden handle;
  • thin metal mesh, specially designed for thermal bonding of plastic parts;
  • knife, wire cutters for processing broken segments;
  • screw clamp;
  • sandpaper with fine and coarse grains for cleaning seams.

Note. The process of soldering serious defects can take hours. During this time, the plastic handle of the soldering iron will warm up so much that it will become difficult to hold the tool with your hand.

In preparation for soldering, paint must be removed to the base not only from cracks, but also from torn pieces of the bumper. Moreover, in this case, the body kit is not removed from the car until all the breaks are fastened and fixed by soldering, otherwise the element will lose its exact shape.

The soldering technology is implemented in the following sequence:

  1. After stripping, wipe the area with degreaser and let it evaporate.
  2. Align the edges of the cracks and, if necessary, secure them in this position with clamps.
  3. Using a heated soldering iron, make tacks along the length of all cracks. For high-quality heating, the tip must be immersed in the plastic to a depth equal to half the thickness of the material, and then level the surface of the molten plastic. The distance between the tacks is 1.5-2 cm.
  4. When tacks have been made on all the cracks, you need to put the broken piece back in place. Fit it to the hole and trim it if necessary so that it fits flush with the surface into the hole.
  5. Solder the torn segment using tacks, then repeat the operation from the inside. After which the bumper can be carefully removed from the car and work can continue in more comfortable conditions, although this is not necessary, depending on your convenience.
  6. Perform continuous soldering of all joints on both sides of the body kit. To prevent adjacent tacks from moving apart due to heating, the seam must be soldered with gaps. That is, first the first section between the tacks is welded, then the third, fifth, seventh, and so on. When finished, go back and solder all remaining sections.
  7. Cut the mesh into pieces 2-4 cm in length. They need to be soldered across the seam in the most intense places - along the edges of cracks, in the middle, at the junction and near the stiffeners. The technology is simple: a steel mesh is placed on the seam and, heated by a soldering iron, immersed in the polymer base of the bumper. At the end, the softened plastic over the mesh needs to be smoothed out.

Important! When soldering the edges of the plastic, you need to hold it motionless and give it time to harden. If you release the part ahead of time, the seam will come apart.

At the end of the soldering procedure, sand the surface of the element, then degrease and paint it in the required color. During further operation, be more careful, since a strong impact may cause the bumper to shatter into pieces, tearing in the same places. To fasten it more firmly, you should use another method - welding with donor plastic.

Photo instructions for soldering the bumper

All joints are carefully cleaned of paint. Fixing the crack with tacks. The fracture is now held on by tacks. The broken piece is clearly adjusted to fit the opening. The fragment is also secured with tacks. All seams are fixed at several points. Fully soldered joints. All soldering operations are repeated from the inside of the bumper.

How to properly solder the front body kit - video

Welding with a hot air gun

This is a more effective way of joining polymer parts, used not only for repairing bumpers, but also for restoring a variety of plastic products. It allows you to more reliably fasten elements, spending much less time on work than with soldering. To use this technology, you need to prepare the same tools with materials as for soldering, excluding the metal mesh. In addition, it will be needed for repairs.

In the modern world, it is difficult to imagine life without a toilet, cistern and other plumbing amenities. Of course, they require timely care. But, like everything else in the world, plumbing can also sometimes break down, and then you have to repair it. Don't wait until your toilet completely falls apart.

Schematic diagram of the drain tank.

As soon as even the most minor malfunction or crack appears, do not delay repairs, but begin to act.

Then your bathroom will last a very long time and in good condition.

If the toilet is cracked

Repairing a toilet, at first glance, may seem complicated, so many people simply call a specialist who will do everything, but will definitely charge you a certain amount of money. This may seem like the only way out, especially if you have never encountered such problems before. And many people simply don’t know how to seal a toilet. But you shouldn't make hasty conclusions. Try to fix the problem yourself, especially if the problem is that your toilet or tank is cracked. After all, the crack can be sealed. The main thing is not to panic and do the work carefully.

So, if you are faced with the fact that your toilet has cracked, then first you need to find out where exactly the breakdown occurred. And it’s not at all necessary to count how much money you have left in your wallet and remember where there is a plumbing store nearby, because you can fix this problem yourself using improvised means. Let's consider the moments when you have a crack in the toilet, flush tank, or if a piece of ceramic breaks off from them. All this can be fixed if you approach this matter correctly.

Toilet drawing.

If your toilet has a crack, it needs to be sealed as soon as possible. Firstly, so that it does not become even larger, and secondly, so that water does not leak out. To seal a crack that has formed on the toilet, you need to have glue. It must be waterproof. You can also use cold welding or silicone sealant. Find some sandpaper and a putty knife. It's good if you also have a hair dryer.

When you have found everything you need for repairs, you can proceed directly to it. Take a hair dryer and heat the crack. This must be done not only outside, but also inside. Such actions are necessary to ensure that excess moisture evaporates. It is necessary to degrease the surface on both sides. To do this, use either acetone or solvents. Next, carefully coat the surface with epoxy resin. Then stick strips of plastic on both sides and wait for everything to dry. And at the very end it is necessary to apply waterproof glue to the crack.

But it happens that a piece of ceramic simply breaks off from the toilet. Then you will need glue, which should be waterproof. Apply a thin layer of glue to the broken piece, press it to the place from which it broke off, and after about four hours it will stick. Next, treat the seam that you have formed with joint putty or epoxy resin with filler. After this, it is better to clean the area with sandpaper.

Solving the problem with the drain tank

If the problem is that your drain tank is cracked, then you need to determine where exactly the crack is. They usually appear on the walls of the toilet tank. This is due to the fact that mechanical stress most often occurs on the walls. When you decide to repair the tank, you need to make sure that the water is shut off and there is no water inside it. Next, you need to carefully open the lid of the tank (after all, if you break it, you are unlikely to be able to find the same one) and dry it completely. And only after these steps can you treat the crack with sealant and wait until it dries.

Now you need to try the drain tank. To do this, try to fill it with water and wait until the tank is full. And after that you can see whether it is leaking or whether your efforts were not in vain. But, if after your actions the tank leaks, then in this case you will have to change it. This rarely happens; in general, you can repair it yourself, even if it is cracked.



 
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