What is the name of the handle for the braid? Making a hand scythe for the grass. Preparing for work
To put the area in order, many different devices are now sold. Progress - what can I say. And this is good, but there is an opinion that you will not be satisfied with technology alone. What else is needed?
I would like to remind dear readers about a simple hand-made Lithuanian scythe, which our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used for centuries to make hay and simply mow grass. All these modern lawn mowers and trimmers are very noisy! And carrying them, especially in the heat, is a dubious pleasure. In addition, they do not particularly favor thick, coarse grass. Working with a hand scythe is much more pleasant and sporty (imagine: the morning trills of a nightingale, wet mowing, rows of mown grass, silence), provided it correct settings, Certainly. Let's talk about this.
Litovka (so it is called because most of such instruments were produced in the 19th century in the city of Vilna) consists of a scythe (braid), a handle-holder (it is also called a “bow” for its external resemblance to a bow), a scythe blade and its fastening system: a wedge and a metal ring.
I usually make a braid from a slender Christmas tree, a little longer than my height. Why this particular tree? Yes, because it almost always has a straight barrel, and it is flexible. At the working end of the thickened fireplace I make an inclined cut with a recess for the braid's spine (Fig. 1). The spine is the bend on the heel of the blade. Here you need to take into account the fact that the metal ring for attaching the scythe must be matched in diameter to the end of the scythe, the wedge and the width of the heel part of the blade. I usually cut this ring from a pipe of suitable diameter.
I bend the bow-handle from flexible wood: bird cherry, willow or a freshly cut oak branch. After I remove the bark from the selected piece, I put it in boiling water for a couple of hours, where I add a little ammonia And laundry soap. All these tricks are needed to make the workpiece more elastic, then it will not only be easier and more convenient to bend, but it will also be better able to hold the adopted shape. Then I cut out a platform on it (Fig. 2)-this is where the bow handle will go around the braid and squeeze it. To make it fit more tightly, I cut a narrow longitudinal groove inside it in the middle, which helps to bend the workpiece more evenly. By the way, I make the cutting depth of the platform 5-6 mm. Once again I dip the workpiece in boiling water, and then, while steamed, I bend it around the braid in the required place, wrap it with twine and leave it to dry. (Fig. 3).
By subsequently moving the bow handle along the braid, I can adjust the braid to my height. Planting a braid on a mower (Fig. 4) is done in such a way that the radius R1 is equal to Ro, then the grip of the scythe will be equal to zero, and it will be possible to regulate it by the position of the arms and torso. I initially regulate the fit of the braid on the braid already at the stage of punching a hole for the bend-spike on the heel of the braid. This is best done by placing the scythe and scythe on the ground. So as not to miss the adjustment.
Well, then comes the turn of the most important operation - riveting the braid. Why is this being done? First, the cutting edge of the blade is pulled back and straightened. Secondly, the peening produced by the hammer significantly improves physical properties metal, making it harder and sharper. And thirdly, thanks to riveting, the braid lasts longer. It is advisable to rivet on an iron headstock up to 5 mm wide. It can be made from an old file, driven into a wooden block (Fig. 5).
I carry out the riveting procedure itself like this: I hit the tip of the blade with the narrow part of the hammer, keeping a distance of no more than 3-4 mm from the edge, so as not to tear cutting edge and do not bend the braid itself with waves through excessive zeal (such a damaged braid is popularly called “lopotha”). I always work on the blade starting from the heel and work it through with a hammer to the very tip. I repeat the procedure three times. I take my time, carefully select the location and force of the blow, controlling the sharpness and width of the drawbar, and constantly inspect the evenness of the blade. Usually it takes me 30-45 minutes to do everything.
Many summer residents, having bought a hand scythe and not bothering to find out in more detail how to prepare it for work, are very quickly disappointed in it. I have heard more than once from people that mowing with such a tool is a real punishment.
And they don’t realize, poor fellows, that even without riveting whetstone can't help! He processes the very edge of the blade, and if it itself is uneven, then all this work is in vain.
Now about this very whetstone. I only use fine grain. When sharpening, I calculate its stroke so that it captures only a third of the length of the braid. So, several movements in the first third of the braid on one side, then on the other, then the same in the second third and the last. I sharpen the entire braid in three passes. Before sharpening the scythe, I stick the pointed end of the scythe into the ground and wipe it with a bunch of grass to remove any stuck grass and dirt so that the bar does not slip, otherwise you could accidentally cut your hand.
An ordinary scythe can be found in the barn of every real owner. There are currently many types of universal technology for cutting grass, but this tool with considerable age still does not lose its position. The braid is indispensable in small areas, as well as in hard-to-reach places.
Description of the tool
The grass scythe came to Russia from developed European countries thanks to Peter I. At first, decrees were even issued so that this tool could be used en masse. The basis of the scythe is a knife with a sharp and curved blade. Most often it is made of steel. The length of the mowing knife can be very varied, from 30-50 cm. The mower is often made of spruce, and the cutting element is attached to it. A straight and long shaft is considered ideal, but its length should not exceed 2 meters.
There are usually two handles on the scythe. One of them is used for the hand that does the main work, and the other for the one that supports. Often both handles are fixed in a stationary position on the braid. However, practice has shown that the most convenient are braids with adjustable handles. They are easily adjusted to suit different heights.
The fastening of a regular braid looks like a wedge and a ring. Most often, dry wood is used to make a wedge. The ring allows you to securely connect the entire structure. Some tools are bolt-on. In small gardens, gardeners often come across hand-made Litovka No. 5 and No. 6.
It is worth noting that the number indicates the length of the knife blade. Lithuanian blades cut grass well and easily both in open meadows and under trees, around bushes, between beds.
Varieties
There are many varieties of braids today. On farms, the following 3 types are distinguished.
- Bagpipe or pink salmon. When you mow with it, you have to bend too much, since the shaft has a crooked shape. The advantage of the tool is a long curved blade, which makes it easy to cut grass in areas overgrown with bushes or with hummocks.
- Lithuania is in greatest demand. This tool can be used with a completely straight back. The braid of this species is long, and the blade of the knife can be of very different lengths. It is often said about this braid that it is a garden braid.
- The serpanka is a fusion of a scythe and a sickle. The main advantage is that it is lightweight. This is due to the small dimensions of the tool.
Also distinguished various types braids based on the principle of their operation and appearance.
- Manual, which makes you work not only your arms, but also other muscles.
- Mechanical or lawn mower looks like a block with knives on wheels. In this unit, one knife remains stationary, and the rest move, working on the principle of scissors.
- Spindle consists of spindle knives driven by rotating wheels. They are divided into 2 types. The disadvantage of such devices is the need to constantly adjust the speed. Moreover, these units are not suitable for large areas.
- contact, in which the blades of the cutting elements intersect;
- non-contact, in which the blades are located at a certain distance, and mowing occurs by capturing and feeding the grass to the knives.
- Folding easy to transport and convenient to store. Small sizes Due to the shortened shaft, many consider braids to be comfortable. Some models of this type are produced with a handle, and some with a rubberized attachment on the knife. Such a small scythe is suitable for compact areas and is completely unsuitable for haymaking.
- The mini scythe is shaped like a knife and resembles a sickle. However, its metal handle is more powerful, straight, and its length does not exceed 1 meter. The cutting element reaches a maximum length of 35 cm. Suitable if the area of the grass to be mowed is small.
There are also professional brush cutters, but they are limited summer cottages practically not used.
How to choose?
Choosing a braid is not an easy task, as many factors must be taken into account. First of all, it is important to know for which area the tool is selected. For example, a Lithuanian scythe will not be suitable for an uneven landscape, and a mini scythe will only be good for lawns or a small flower bed. It will be inconvenient for pink salmon to mow grass on a flat area, but a serpanka will do an excellent job with plants that have a hard stem.
The quality of the cutting element, called the blade, is checked by impact. In this case, a good ringing sound should be heard, indicating proper hardening of the metal. The scythe, like a knife, must have sufficient flexibility for the tool to last as long as possible. High-quality braids have a well-sharpened cutting edge.
You need to select a mowing tool based on your height. It is important that the braid fits well in your hands and is comfortable. The weight of the tool also matters. IN lately Often there are lightweight braids that are more convenient to use.
It is worth considering that the longer the knife, the heavier the entire braid will be.
There are quite a few traditional methods, allowing you to check how high-quality the braid is. One is to take a piece of window glass and run it across a blade. If the glass goes well without catching, then the braid is good. Otherwise, the canvas is made of soft metal and there will be many problems with it. It is best if the glass passes over the cutting element smoothly, without a single trace.
There is also a method for checking a quality braid using a regular match. It is placed crosswise on the edge of the scythe knife. Then it must be pushed from one side. If the match turns, it means the tool is good. Some people test with a nail by running it across the blade. It is believed that if there are no visible defects or shavings are removed from the nail, then the braid is of high quality and will last not just for years, but for decades.
There is also a method where the end of the braid is placed against a board on the floor and pressed from above. With a good scythe, the steel will bend evenly and return to its previous position immediately after being released. When choosing a braid, you should pay attention to another point such as the presence of a mark from the manufacturer.
Companies that produce only high-quality tools always leave their own logo on the metal sheet to avoid fakes. Most often, the mark is located in the area of the heel of the braid.
Preparing for work
Choosing a braid is half the battle; you still need to prepare it for work. It would be good if the scythe was purchased completely assembled and ready for use. If not, then it needs to be beaten off and then sharpened. Then you need to assemble the tool.
Batting
Preparation of the instrument begins with beating. It is not easy to hit correctly, but it is important for every owner of a scythe to be able to do this. For this process You will need a headstock, a hammer, a stump or a log. Previously, babkas were made independently from improvised materials, but now they can be bought in special stores. The main thing is that they are made of solid steel and do not dent when struck.
The headstock must be driven into a stump or log, and the knife removed from the handle. You don’t have to do this, but then you’ll have to make a stand for the handle. The beating begins with the cutting element being placed in water for 30-40 minutes, then it is placed on the headstock with the sharp edge towards itself. The blows are applied starting from the heel, without much effort. The hammer blow is completed with a pulling motion.
In the end metal sheet is pulled in the desired direction. When beating, it is important not to rush and not to hit hard so as not to bend the cutting edge. With each blow, you need to move from the heel to the nose of the knife. When the thickness of the edge has become almost desired, the hammer blows should become even weaker. This is necessary to smooth out dents.
Sharpening
The easiest way to sharpen a braid is in two stages: scraping and straightening. The first stage is carried out using a scraper (a triangular file with sharp edges). In this case, the knife can be sharpened on one or both sides, depending on the type. When scraping, the scythe is held in the heel area and driven with a scraper along the cutting element to the end of the blade. It is important to make a sharpening angle.
Scraping is completed as soon as burrs appear on the cutting edge. Now you need to sharpen it with an emery block. They need to be sharpened at the same sharpening angle that was maintained when sharpening with a scraper. Otherwise, the braid will quickly become dull.
Koshu helped his parents for a long time, even during the years of occupation. After the expulsion of the Nazis, work in this unit increased - it was necessary to prepare food for our own and the collective farm's livestock. But there weren’t enough mowers in the villages; the war took away many. They worked hard. In the morning for ourselves, and already at 8-9 am we went out to the collective farm meadows.
So, let's mow. I drew a sketch of the basic mower tool. The length of the cutting is 1.8-2.2 m, depending on the height of the worker. Material: spruce with a diameter of 4-5 cm. After cutting down, you need to remove the bark: it turns out beautiful shade. We cut off the branches and, after partial drying, level them using a wood rasp. We cut the lower end obliquely at an angle of approximately 30° to the axis of the cutting. In the upper part of the bevel, a hole (or recess) is made with a drill or chisel for the tenon of the braid.
The metal ring is the main part of attaching the scythe to the scythe (handling). Having become a summer resident, I make it from an exhaust pipe.
would be a Zhiguli. The ring, as shown in the picture, has a slight taper. Wide surface- to the scythe, the narrow one is in contact with the wedge. I make it from hardwood (oak, ash, lilac, etc.). The last part in my version of the tool is the handle. Material - wood that lends itself well to bending (oak, linden, bird cherry). The length of the workpiece is 35 cm. In the middle, depending on the diameter of the handle, a cutout is made with the fence, thanks to which the handle clasps the mow and is pressed against it by compressing the levers with a cord.
To ensure quality when bending, immerse the handle in boiling water - the wood steams and easily fits the workpiece. After bending, the arms of the handle are tied with a cord, the product is dried, and then processed and polished.
The handle should be put on the tip not by straightening it, but by pushing it to a certain place.
It depends on the growth of the mower and is equal to the distance from the ground to the pelvic bone. When installing the scythe, place it with the toe at a distance from the handle equal to the area from the bottom of the scythe to the point where the handle is pressed (distance 4-5, see figure). Mikhail Ezhov (a regular reader and author of Dacha) shows two options for the location of the braid
when securing it. This has not happened in my practice. The grass should be mowed in all cases, and not knocked down. You must be able to hold the braid correctly and make circular movements correctly. I note that not all mowers perform this operation in the same way. Some press the scythe to the ground, while others, on the contrary, support it. For some, at the end of the cutting stroke, the left hand rises upward, while others maintain the same height, both at the beginning of the grip and at the end. This gives not only the skill, but also the position of the braid in relation to the handle.
So, when everything is prepared as described above, the braid and handle are securely fastened. It’s a pity that braid manufacturers don’t polish them before putting them on sale, transferring these functions to buyers. The very first initial implementation of this operation is difficult and not within the capabilities of everyone who wants to master the profession of a mower. If my voice is heard by scythe producers, let them help us, summer residents, work on our plots.
The sharpness is important. Industrial enterprises and private firms supply bars in abundance with and without handles. The quality is good. In my practice, I did not resort to wetting pollocks, both after the war and now. I rivet it on an anvil with the heel of a hammer. One block is for sitting, and the second is for the anvil, the latter is 25-30 cm higher than the first. The legs are compressed and do not allow the block to move when struck with a hammer. Left hand holds the scythe and moves it after each blow, either forward or backward. The facing beaten in this way turns out even and smooth. The thickness depends on the grass and the area where the work will be done.
Sharpening. The scythe should always be ready for use. After beating it needs to be sharpened well. I do this after assembling the tool.
We sharpen in 2-3 stages. Sharpened first upper part, while the braid is held by the toe, then the bottom, then 2-3 passes are made along the entire length of the blade. The block must be kept in the plane of the scythe blade, otherwise it can be sharpened to burrs in one direction or another.
Properly made parts of the scythe and a well-beaten and sharpened blade are the key successful work with lawns, roadsides and other areas where mowing is required.
When finished working on the lawn, wash and dry the scythe thoroughly, otherwise rust may occur.
