How to protect yourself from late blight on tomatoes. How to deal with late blight on tomatoes? Is it safe to eat fruits affected by a fungus
Brown rot of tomatoes, or otherwise late blight, most often appears in the second half of summer, when night temperatures are often below +10 degrees. Low night temperatures + high humidity + “wrong” plant neighbors and phytophthora are provided - the plant gets sick, starts to rot. Tomatoes rot both in the greenhouse and on the street - phytophthora spreads everywhere.
Often, gardeners do not worry in advance about preventing the disease and creating good conditions for tomatoes, but are looking for information on what to do if the tomatoes are already rotting.
Late blight symptoms
Let's see what harm phytophthora causes and why tomatoes rot.
Phytophthora is a fungal disease, and if this fungus gets on a plant, everything is infected, and as soon as favorable conditions are created for its reproduction (and this is humidity at a low temperature), the disease will progress until it infects the entire plant.
Tomatoes and potatoes suffer greatly from phytophthora, but cases of infection with phytophthora and garden strawberries are not uncommon.
What does phytophthora look like? The foliage and fruits of tomatoes are covered with brown spots without clear boundaries. The disease most often affects not yet ripe tomatoes, when they are still green, or slightly brown.
The harm caused by phytophthora is obvious - the crop can be completely lost, or at least most of it.
Residents of the northern regions complain most of all about the defeat of tomatoes by this disease, since the summer there is short and the differences in night and day temperatures begin at the end of July, when the tomatoes are still green even in the greenhouse.
Late blight of tomatoes photo
Means of combating phytophthora
The fight against late blight on tomatoes includes the prevention of the disease and the direct treatment. Prevention of late blight on tomatoes includes, firstly, the correct planned placement of crops in the garden, that is, the proximity of nightshade crops, namely potatoes and tomatoes, is not recommended.
Secondly, the timely destruction of plant residues affected by phytophthora. Thirdly, the correct agricultural technique for growing tomatoes, since its violation also increases the risk of phytophthora damage - namely, thickening of plantings, mutual shading of plants and insufficient pruning of leaves.
It is best if onions, garlic, basil or savory grow along with tomatoes. And on the neighboring beds there will be beans, cabbage, lettuce (lettuce) or radish.
Tomatoes are more prone to infection if the soil is oversaturated with nitrogen fertilizers, and, conversely, the plant's immunity is higher if there is a sufficient amount of potassium and phosphorus in the soil.
Protection against phytophthora also includes seed treatment, since very often the disease enters the beds from seeds obtained from a diseased fetus.
Late blight treatment includes a set of measures to restore the plant when it is already infected. Next, we consider specific effective measures to combat late blight of tomatoes.
Processing tomatoes from phytophthora
To begin with, consider the question of how to cultivate the land from late blight, if an outbreak of this disease was noticed in the beds last season.
Be sure to remove and burn all plant debris, as well as dig up the soil. We do not recommend treating the soil with chemicals, it is better to use the biological agents phytosporin or trichodermin, they contain live fungi and bacteria that can destroy or inhibit the growth of pathogenic fungi.
Many gardeners treat the soil from phytophthora with copper-containing preparations, for example, Bordeaux mixture.
It is not possible to completely cure the earth of phytophthora, the spores of the fungus are quite tenacious, they manage to survive in the soil even in the most severe winters. Or rather, let's say that it is possible to disinfect the soil from phytophthora, but then it will not be intended for growing edible plants, since it will be completely killed by chemicals.
So what to do so that phytophthora does not appear on tomatoes. Well, and methods of dealing with this disease.
- 2 weeks after planting tomato seedlings in the ground, it is advisable to spray with kefir. To do this, pour 1 liter of kefir into a bucket of water and stir well. This solution should “wander” for 2 days, after which it is ready for use. This is a prophylactic. Better to do it weekly.
- Spraying tomatoes with a solution of ash. To do this, pour half a bucket of ash with water, mix and infuse for 3 days. Then strain the solution and dilute it with water 1 to 3, add a little liquid soap. In total, 3 sprayings of ash are carried out during the season - when, after planting, the seedlings take root, then just before flowering and after the appearance of the ovaries.
- Spraying tomatoes with milk with iodine. 1 liter of skim milk and 20 drops of iodine are poured into a bucket of water.
- Spraying tomatoes with a solution of garlic. To do this, pour 1.5 cups of chopped garlic with a bucket of water and leave for a day. Then strain the infusion and add 2 g of potassium permanganate. Spray the bushes immediately after the formation of the ovary.
- Spraying with a solution of boric acid. 1 teaspoon per bucket of water.
- Spraying tomatoes with whey. You can dilute with water 1 to 1 and spray even every day starting in July.
- Spraying with table salt. Dissolve 1 cup of salt in a bucket of water. Spray large but still green tomatoes once a month.
- To combat late blight of tomatoes, baker's yeast is used. 100 grams of yeast are diluted in 10 liters of water and tomatoes are watered at the first symptoms of the disease.
Many gardeners use copper wire to pierce the stem of tomatoes. To do this, the wire is cut into small pieces of 2-3 cm and, at a height of about 10 cm from the ground, is stuck into the stem of the plant. Keep in mind that the plant should already be strong enough.
Good results in the fight against late blight are shown by the treatment of tomato bushes with growth regulators.
Often on the forum you can see the question - Phytophthora in the greenhouse, what to do?
But it is much easier to deal with phytophthora in a greenhouse than in the open air. Since there we ourselves can create a certain microclimate, but it is impossible to do this in the open ground. In a greenhouse, for example, from the moment the fruits are poured, we can reduce watering, thereby reducing humidity and blocking the path of phytophthora. If the fruits are already large and they only have to ripen, you need to gradually cut off all the leaves from the bottom to the top, thereby improving ventilation in the greenhouse and opening up the sun to the fruits.
Processing a tomato from phytophthora should be carried out, if possible, by biological means, otherwise the fruits will be saturated with chemicals. And we can buy such fruits in the store
Phytophthora resistant tomato varieties
There are no tomatoes that do not suffer from late blight! Do not believe what is written on the bags of seeds. Conscientious growers can only process the seeds to eliminate the risk of transferring fungal spores to them. The rest is just a marketing ploy.
That is why when asked which tomatoes are not afraid of phytophthora - there are none! There are only early ripe varieties of tomatoes that have time to grow and ripen before this very disease comes to your beds.
How to get away from phytophthora, video
A huge number of varieties of tomatoes with photos, descriptions and reviews of gardeners in ours. Happy viewing.
The danger of phytophthora and the impact on the yield of tomatoes. Measures for the control and prevention of late blight in the garden and greenhouses. The use of salt, kefir, iodine, garlic to get healthy tomatoes.
Why late blight appears on tomatoes
Signs of late blight
The name phytophthora consists of words of ancient Greek origin, the translation of which means "destroying the plant." It is also known as tomato brown rot, having received this nickname for the characteristic color of the affected vegetables. On the leaves, the disease manifests itself as grayish-brown spots of irregular shape. If the phytophthora did not destroy the flower stalks, the tied tomatoes signal a disease with subcutaneous vague brownish-brown solid formations. Over time, the entire vegetable darkens, and the previously hardened tissues soften from rot.
In order for the fight against phytophthora to be effective, study the conditions under which it is actively developing. At risk are vegetables that:
- planted too close to each other - thickened plantings;
- grown with increased dampness - frequent watering, water drops on the leaves and high humidity are harmful to tomatoes;
- develop in cold weather, when the air temperature drops below -10°C.
To prevent fungus on tomatoes, water carefully, under the root of the bush. Do this infrequently, but plentifully. Depending on weather conditions, moisten the soil no more than twice a week.
Pinching is also one of the ways to prevent phytophthora. This technique not only has a positive effect on the development of the ovaries, but also allows air to circulate freely among the stems. The better the plants are ventilated, the worse the conditions for the reproduction of a pathogenic fungus.
Phytophthora outbreaks often occur in cold, rainy weather. To protect against the vagaries of the weather at the end of the summer season, especially when the difference between night and day temperatures becomes more noticeable, the cultivation of plants in greenhouses will help.
Tatyana Pronina, expert
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes
Keep the area clean and tidy. After harvesting, the disease continues to live in potato tops, the remains of leaves and stems of tomato. Burn this hazardous waste immediately.
Primary processing of plants
If, nevertheless, it was not possible to protect the beds from harmful spores, and symptoms of phytophthora were found on the plants, urgently take measures to have time to harvest and the disease did not spread further. For this:
- As soon as spots on the leaves become noticeable, spray the growing fruits with a solution of calcium chloride. It is easy to find and buy at a pharmacy - a 10% solution is diluted with water in proportions of 1:4.
- Remove loose flowers from the bushes - they are already a source of infection.
- Remove the lower leaves from the plants under the ripening brushes.
Additional ways to protect
Take steps to speed up fruit ripening. To do this, artificially reduce the flow of nutrients to the plant. Grasping the lower part of the stem with your hand, pull the bush up with such force that part of the roots breaks in the thickness of the soil.
Eliminate supplements. In such a stressful situation, the plant directs all its nutrient reserves to speed up the ripening of the fruit for reproduction.
It is more difficult to deal with late blight when the harvest is still far away, and the disease has already manifested itself in your area. In isolated cases, infected specimens should be immediately removed from the beds with a root and destroyed. When they are found in greenhouses, ventilate the buildings.
If most plants are susceptible to the disease, chemicals, boric acid, are used to combat it. Do not use these less than three weeks before the expected harvest date.
Folk remedies for fighting phytophthora
Along with chemical preparations, more environmentally friendly folk methods of dealing with brown rot are famous for good results. The following have performed well:
- Dissolve 1 cup of coarse salt in 10 liters of water. Before spraying from the bush, remove the leaves and ovaries that have darkened from the disease;
- 10 liters of water take 30 drops of iodine and 1 liter of milk. Such an iodine solution not only fights the fungus, but also reproaches the ripening of the crop;
- a bucket of water will need 1 liter of fermented kefir. Spray the seedlings with this composition for prevention two weeks after planting in a permanent place, and then repeat the treatment every 7 days during the entire growing season;
- dried tinder mushroom finely chopped and brewed with boiling water. For 100 g of raw materials, 1 liter of water is required. When the infusion has cooled, strain it and spray the infected plants with it. Repeat the treatment after 2 weeks;
- to combat phytophthora, industrial preparations containing copper are used. Some gardeners have gotten the hang of using copper wire in their practice to fight the fungus. It is cut into pieces 5 cm long and a bush is pierced with it at the very bottom of the stem;
- onions and garlic have fungicide properties, so they are often used in the fight against brown rot. A bucket of water will require 200 g of crushed raw materials. The infusion is ready in a day, treat each fruit with it;
- an effective method is an alkaline solution of ash, soap and blue vitriol, diluted in 10 liters of water.
Prevention of late blight
Take care in advance that there is no brown rot of tomatoes. To this end, experienced gardeners disinfect the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and warm the planting material.
Use the rules of crop rotation in the garden. The fight against phytophthora is more effective if you do not plant crops that are susceptible to the same diseases in the same area earlier than two years later. Good predecessors for tomatoes and other nightshades would be:
- cabbage - broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, white and savoy cabbage, Beijing;
- pumpkin - cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin;
- legumes - beans, peas.
Fungicide neighbors will help protect planting tomatoes from spores. To do this, combine planting nightshade and garlic. Alternate the beds, plant garlic in the aisles or around the area with tomatoes.
Phytophthora is a dangerous rival for the gardener in the fight for the harvest. But if you know the weaknesses of the enemy and take timely measures to prevent and treat plants, it is not so difficult to emerge victorious in this duel and harvest a healthy crop.
How to deal with folk remedies with late blight on tomatoes
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes
Tomatoes, like all vegetables that grow in our beds, are subject to a variety of diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. One of the most common among them is phytophthora. Although it will cause a lot of problems for tomatoes, it is still possible to fight it and overcome it.
To combat phytophthora, a lot of both folk and chemical agents are used.
Chemicals for treatment and protection
Common chemicals include:
- Antibiotic Trichopolum. 10 tablets of this remedy are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bushes are sprayed with it. The first time they are processed when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.
- Iodine. This is an antimicrobial agent. Because gardeners like to prepare a milky-iodine solution that will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.
- Zelenka. 40 drops of this agent are dissolved in water and tomatoes are sprayed with it.
- Potassium permanganate solution. This tool is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, rinse with water and dry well.
Antibiotic Trichopolum
Folk preparations
Effective folk methods include:
- Garlic infusion. To prepare it, take 200 g of chopped garlic and dissolve it in a glass of warm water. After 24 hours, the substance is filtered and poured into 10 liters of water, adding a gram of sour-milk potassium there. For treatment, you need to sprinkle tomatoes.
- Milk solution or whey. Any of these dairy products is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and, starting in July, tomato bushes are regularly sprayed with such a remedy for protection.
- Salt solution. They need to process and protect the still green tomatoes. Such a tool forms a kind of film that will prevent the penetration of infection. To prepare it, a glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Garlic infusion
As for planting in a greenhouse, tomatoes must be planted, alternating with cucumbers.
The soil in the greenhouse is a must in autumn disinfect with copper sulfate. If the plants have already been infected with phytophthora, then in the greenhouse it is necessary to remove the soil with a thickness of about 5 cm.
It should also be remembered that evaporation occurs in the greenhouse and stale air is present, and this favorably affects the development of bacteria. Therefore, be sure to regularly ventilate the greenhouse to protect plants from disease.
Outdoor care
It is necessary to plant plants not too densely so that there is no rapid infection with phytophthora. But if there is not too much space in the greenhouse, then the tomato should definitely pluck old leaves, because they are a favorite habitat of this disease.
To prevent an outbreak of late blight, it is necessary, first of all, to follow the rules of watering. No need to pour water on the leaves. It is necessary to water the plants under the root.
To prevent the appearance of phytophthora, the tomato must be watered only under the root.
If it has already happened that the tomatoes could not resist this disease, then processing in order to save them should be carried out, provided that it didn't rain all day. You need to spray tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy but dry weather.
seedling care
Be sure to strengthen the immunity of tomato seedlings before planting them in the ground. For this, the following measures are taken:
- before planting, the plants are treated 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture;
- after half a month arceridoma;
- after another half a month with foundationazole;
- after that, the last 2 remedies are alternated.
Bordeaux liquid Arceride Fundazol
Very effective in the fight against phytophthora are:
- Ridomil gold. It protects the tomatoes from the outside and prevents the penetration of fungi into the inside of the tissues. To prepare this solution, you need to take 10 grams of the product and dilute it in 4 liters of water. They begin to process plants during the growing season, and then repeat every half a month.
- Thanos. This drug has many advantages, as it is resistant to flushing and has a healing effect by killing fungi. For its preparation, take 12 g per 10 liters. Spraying is carried out in the same way as Ramidol gold.
- Revus. It is also resistant to precipitation and has a healing effect. 6 ml is diluted in 5 liters of water and the plants are sprayed starting from the growing season. Processing is carried out 3 times every 2 weeks.
Ridomil Gold Thanos Revus
Of course, as in the case of other diseases, it is easiest to carry out prevention than to endlessly deal with late blight.
The main preventive measures include the following:
- Don't allow neighbors tomatoes with potatoes.
- You should not plant these vegetables on the same place for several years in a row.
- Also, do not plant tomatoes in the place where eggplants, peppers and potatoes grew.
- Do not water tomatoes too often and abundantly.
- Definitely necessary remove lower leaves tomato so that they touch the ground as little as possible.
- Pull out weeds as they retain moisture.
- Do not oversaturate the soil with nitrogen fertilizers.
- When the soil retains moisture for a very long time, it is imperative to weed.
- After harvesting, do not leave the tops to winter in the garden, it must be burned.
When growing in a greenhouse, it is necessary to avoid proximity to potatoes
Finding signs of phytophthora on tomatoes is not at all difficult:
- spots appear on the underside, after which leaves turn brown and fall;
- the shoots of the plant and its fruits also turn black;
- at first the vegetables become hard, and then softer and softer until they begin to rot. So the whole fetus may be lost.
Phytophthora on leaves Infection of tomato fruits
When to treat for the first time
The first time tomatoes are processed 1 or 2 days before planting seedlings in open ground.
After planting, the plants are sprayed again after 12 days.
Studies have shown that oospores die in 50-degree heat, so if you hold the seeds about 2 hours at this temperature, they will be disinfected.
Remember that for planting it is better to use seeds that have been collected about 3 years ago. During this period, all viruses will die, and you will receive pure material.
Conditions for the development of the disease
Tomatoes are easily infected with late blight from potatoes, and there are many conditions for the development of this disease.
The most common of them include:
- pouring rains that last about 3 days;
- sudden changes in temperature day and night with a difference of 8 to 12 degrees;
- dew that appears from these temperature changes;
- fog;
- lack of sunlight and heat;
- dense plantings;
- excess nitrogen.
The lack of heat and sunlight is one of the conditions for the development of phytophthora.
Phytophthora does not develop in dry weather.
In the spring, before planting, be sure to cultivate the land from phytophthora. For this they take 3% copper sulfate and water them on the ground.
After that, the soil should be well loosened. To do this, use a special device that will help mix the top cover with a thickness of 25 cm. In this, Tornado will be one of the best helpers. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.
And the final step is watering the soil phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. means are dissolved in 10 l of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m.
Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.
Is it possible to eat diseased fruits
If you roll affected tomatoes in jars, they can go bad.
Do not be afraid to eat tomatoes affected by late blight. The disease is not transmitted to humans. However, black spots spoil the appearance of tomatoes, and it is very unpleasant to eat them.
As for conservation, it is not recommended to close these tomatoes.
Their acidity may increase, and a variety of microorganisms will multiply, because of which the taste of tomatoes will be completely spoiled.
Varieties resistant to infection
Resistant varieties before late blight include: Gift of a brother, De-Barao, Vilina, Lyana, Roton.
As you can see, phytophthora is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the tool you like, and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.
Source: http://profermu.com/ogorod/pomidory/borba-s-fitoftoroi.html
Phytophthora on tomatoes in a country greenhouse: how to fight and win
Phytophthora on tomatoes is a dangerous disease, especially when growing crops in closed ground. How to deal with phytophthora? What measures can be taken to prevent the development of the disease in a closed greenhouse?
Phytophthora of tomatoes - signs of plant infection
The late blight disease is caused by a protozoan fungus that is invisible to the human eye due to its microscopic size, Phytophthora infestans.
The smallest mushroom has an incredible ability to reproduce rapidly.
In the short term, planting greenhouse tomatoes may be infected with late blight, and hopes for a harvest will rapidly decrease.
Phytophthora can affect both already mature and green fruits.
The disease usually develops on the lower leaves, which are covered with brown spots, they develop spores of the fungus in the form of white thin fluff. Then the infection captures the main stems, making it impossible to feed all parts of the plant with water.
Last of all, phytophthora affects the fruits of tomatoes. Brown stains appear on them, the fruits mummify and rot. The disease develops even on immature fruits of tomatoes.
Attention! Intact tomatoes collected from a diseased plant cannot be stored - late blight can appear on these fruits at any time.
Usually, an outbreak of Phytophthora in a greenhouse coincides with the onset of cold nights after a hot day. Such a temperature difference is typical for the second half of summer, just during the ripening of tomato fruits.
Tomato flowering affected by late blight
The defeat of tomato plants with phytophthora can be dry (when all parts of the plant simply dry out) and wet (characterized by the development of rot). Rot on plants develops in inclement rainy weather.
Common causes of late blight on tomatoes
- Non-observance of crop rotation in the greenhouse, especially when planting tomatoes after potatoes or when growing tomatoes in the greenhouse for several consecutive seasons.
- Phytophthora initially affects potatoes, so plantings of potatoes and tomatoes should be separated, placing them at considerable distances.
- There is a great threat of phytophthora development in greenhouses with dense plantings of tomatoes, with poor ventilation or its complete absence. Phytophthora on tomato leaves
- Phytophthora often affects plants overfed with nitrogen.
- Overwatering of plants also contributes to the development of the disease, especially in cold, rainy summers.
To prevent the threat of phytophthora infection of plantings of tomatoes, it is necessary to water the plants under the root, preventing water from getting on the stems and leaves.
Damage to tomato bushes, outwardly similar to late blight, also causes other diseases or a violation of the rules of agricultural technology:
- top rot;
- exposure of the roots;
- lack of boron and magnesium.
Preventive measures to prevent late blight tomato diseases
- The right choice of seeds will help to prevent the development of late blight of tomatoes in greenhouses. Early varieties of tomatoes should be chosen, as the disease usually progresses in the second half of summer.
It is noticed that tall varieties fall ill with late blight less often than short ones. Some varieties of tomatoes are more resistant to phytophthora
- When growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is important to timely pinch, remove leaves and barren flowers.
- Watering plantings should be done in doses, strictly under the root, preventing water from getting on the leaves and stems of the plant. Overwatering tomato plants almost always causes phytophthora to develop.
- Of great importance for prevention is the observance of crop rotation in the greenhouse, as well as the proximity of tomatoes to potatoes. It is not recommended to use greenhouse areas for planting tomatoes for several years in a row.
- Thickened planting of tomatoes in a greenhouse is another reason for the development of late blight plant disease.
- When planting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse, you should refrain from introducing fresh manure and nitrogen fertilizers into the soil.
- Timely loosening of the soil and mulching of plantings will help prevent the development of late blight tomato disease.
- Daily systematic ventilation of greenhouse complexes reduces the risk of phytophthora.
- Plant residues of late blight-affected plants must be removed from greenhouses. Removed plants must be burned, and the greenhouse must be disinfected with a solution of chloride of lime.
- Tomato seedlings after planting must be treated with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (0.5%). Preventive treatment of tomato seedlings is repeated after two weeks (1% solution).
Growing tomatoes are treated with Bordeaux liquid periodically, after 12 days, before the fruit begins to brown. Harvesting is possible 8-10 days after the last treatment.
- It is allowed to carry out treatment with copper oxychloride (40 g per 10 l of water), while the collection of fruits is possible 20 days after treatment.
- Preventive measures against phytophthora include tillage with ash.
How to treat tomatoes infected with late blight?
Bordeaux liquid is an excellent remedy for treating tomatoes from phytophthora
It is allowed to treat late blight-infected plants with chemical preparations containing biologically active substances and folk remedies. However, the general requirement for treatments is suitable weather conditions.
Attention! Systemic spraying of tomatoes is carried out in dry, clear weather, at least 5 times per season. Therapeutic treatments are carried out in conjunction with plant nutrition with drugs that strengthen the immune system of tomatoes.
Folk remedies for combating late blight of tomatoes
0.1 kg chopped garlic(you can use any parts of the plant) insist in 1 glass of water for a day; filter; add the infusion to 10 liters of water, adding 1 g of potassium permanganate. Garlic solution produces several sprays of tomato plantings, starting from the period of ovary formation, after 10-12 days.
If you do not want to use chemicals, use garlic tincture
An effective warning against phytophthora is milk serum, which is diluted in half with water. Processing of tomato plants in the greenhouse can be carried out daily.
Once every 2 weeks, you can spray tomato bushes with a solution of ordinary milk (1 liter of skimmed milk and 20 drops of iodine are added to 10 liters of water).
rotten hay suitable for the treatment of late blight plants: 1 kg of hay is poured into 10 liters of water, with the addition of 100 g of urea. Infuse the solution for 4 days, filter and spray the tomatoes 1 time in 2 weeks.
Total 100 g bakery yeast, diluted in 10 liters of water, will help curb the development of tomato disease if the bushes are sprayed at the first sign of the disease.
A solution of table salt is a means of combating late blight that is safe for fruits
It is useful to protect ripening tomato fruits from phytophthora with a solution table salt. To do this, 1 glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spraying of green fruits is carried out monthly, 1 time.
When planting seedlings, you can wrap the roots with a thin copper wire, adult plants protect against phytophthora by "copper piercing", when a piece of copper wire is inserted into the stem of an adult tomato plant.
Before flowering, tomato bushes can be treated once with a solution of copper sulfate (for 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate).
A very common method of treating phytophthora with the help of "Trichopol": 1 tablet of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Spraying is carried out once every 2 weeks.
Treatment of infected tomato plants with chemicals
"Fitosporin" is a drug that helps to neutralize late blight disease on tomatoes when grown in greenhouse conditions. The drug is used when planting seedlings: plants intended for planting in a greenhouse are dipped into the Fitosporin solution.
It is allowed to shed the soil with a solution of "Fitosporin" and add the drug to the water when watering. The dosage of the drug should be strictly observed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
How to cook Bordeaux liquid: video
Phytophthora on greenhouse tomatoes: photo
Source: https://dachadizain.ru/bolezni/bolezny/fitoftora-na-pomidorax.html
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes. Recipes and helpful tips
Phytophthora often affects tomatoes, and therefore it is important for gardeners to protect their tomatoes in the second half of summer.
How to protect tomatoes from late blight, how to save diseased bushes? What drugs to use from phytophthora, and what folk remedies will help from the disease.
How to process tomatoes in a greenhouse to keep them from late blight?
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes
What is phytophthora? Signs of illness
Therefore, the first phytophthora affects potatoes, and then the spores fly to the tomatoes.
Phytophthora begins with the appearance of dark brown spots on the leaves, then they pass to the stems and fruits. The lower leaves are affected first.
The spots can be of different shapes and sizes. On the leaves at the beginning of the disease there is a whitish coating.
The fruits become ill through the stalk. They may remain clean at first, but brown spots also appear on them during storage. This disease can destroy all plantings of tomatoes in a few days.
Photo phytophthora on tomatoes
Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes?
It is important that the spores of the disease can remain on dry seeds. Only after heating for two hours at a temperature of 45-50 ° C, you can be sure that the seeds are disinfected. Therefore, if the seeds are taken from a diseased fetus, they must be specially treated.
Conditions for the development of late blight
In dry, hot weather, infection of tomatoes with late blight is minimized. The spores of this fungus do not like sunlight and are inactive.
But during the period of rains and fogs, when the humidity of the air rises, they “wake up” and begin their detrimental effect.
If it rains for more than two days, be sure that your tomatoes have already become infected with late blight.
1. Phytophthora usually appears on tomatoes in August, after cold nights and foggy damp matinees. But tomatoes can get sick even earlier - in July. Favorable weather for the development of the disease is a temperature below + 15 ° C and high humidity.
2. Thickened plantings contribute to the appearance of phytophthora. Therefore, excess leaves must be cut off to improve the ventilation of the bushes.
3. Watering tomatoes on the leaves also helps them get sick. Therefore, late blight often appears in open ground after rainy cold weather. It is worth watering the plants in the morning so that the moisture is well absorbed during the day and only under the root, the leaves cannot be wetted.
4. Low temperatures are also a reason for the prevention of tomatoes from late blight.
If the weather is dry and sunny, then infection usually does not occur. Spores die in the sun.
The best treatment is disease prevention. We must try to avoid adverse conditions.
Other reasons for the development of late blight are:
- abuse of nitrogen supplements;
- lack of useful trace elements of copper, potassium, iodine, manganese in the soil;
- bushes too densely planted.
How to save tomatoes from late blight - prevention
- The first stage of prevention for the next summer's harvest begins in the fall, during the harvest of the last crop and tearing out the tops. It must be taken away from the garden and burned so that the spores of the fungus do not infect young tomatoes in a year.
- If there is excess lime in the soil, then you need to balance its composition by pouring sand into the pits.
- Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Tomatoes love dry weather. Strong humidity in warm weather, and even faster in cool weather, leads to disease.
It begins with the lower leaves, where more moisture accumulates. It is necessary to constantly check the lower leaves and if they begin to darken, immediately remove them.
As already mentioned, it is imperative to cut off excess leaves and stepchildren from tomatoes. The lower leaves are harvested to the first ripening brush constantly. Also cut off yellowing and drying leaves. It is important to create good ventilation for planting tomatoes.
You can cover the top rows of tomatoes with a film or covering material so that it hangs down on the sides without touching the ground. This will keep the airing, and the tomatoes will be sheltered from the night cold dews.
Phytophthora prevention can be called the complete mulching of the earth under planting tomatoes.
Late blight first affects potato plantings, so you should not plant tomatoes next to it.
Also, a close relative of tomatoes and potatoes - eggplant, can also suffer from late blight and it is better not to plant it nearby.
In small areas, protection can be created from rock plants sown around the perimeter of the beds. For example: peas, curly beans, corn.
A good prevention would be spraying plantings and land with phytosporin and trichodermin biological products even before the onset of the disease. They suppress the spread of disease.
Photo phytophthora on tomatoes
It is necessary to strengthen the plants from a young age. Temper. It is enough to fertilize and feed (without fanaticism and excesses, of course).
Water with infusion of ash during fruit ripening. So that they are strong and strong, then it will be easier for them to fight diseases.
But nitrogen fertilizers (mullein, herbal infusions) should not be fed in the second half of summer - this weakens the plants, they will get sick faster.
How to cultivate the land after phytophthora
For prevention, the earth is watered with phytosporin and trichodermin preparations. If there was a mass disease, then you need to burn all the diseased bushes, and pour the fungicide on the ground.
How to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse
In the greenhouse, tomatoes are well protected from phytophthora. Even if it is cold and damp outside, they have many advantages.
The greenhouse creates its own climate, which can be regulated. Do not forget to ventilate, as well as about prevention.
It is often necessary to ventilate the greenhouses so that excessive condensate does not collect and the humidity is normal.
- Do not thicken landings.
- Cut off stepsons and extra leaves.
- Tie up bushes.
- Mulch the ground.
Also, to protect tomatoes in the greenhouse, do not plant potatoes and tomatoes in open ground nearby so that their spores do not get into the greenhouse.
At the end of June, you need to spray the tomatoes in the greenhouse with a phytosporin biological product for prevention. Constantly cultivate the land under the tomatoes.
In the greenhouse, it is also necessary to decontaminate its entire structure and land since autumn. You can do this in several ways:
- remove the top layer of soil 20 cm and start a new soil;
- bury the stems of dill, marigold and calendula deep into the ground so that they rot and fertilize it and heal it;
- treat the entire surface of the greenhouse with solutions of phytosporin or copper sulfate.
What to do with late blight on tomatoes if it appeared in the greenhouse?
Preparations with copper should not be used - after all, there is always a ripening crop in the greenhouse. It is better to use folk methods. The same infusions of garlic, onion or milk solution. They are described in folk recipes later in the article.
You can spray tomatoes simply with iodine water. Take 10 ml of ordinary 5% iodine per bucket of water. Before use, remove all yellowed and diseased leaves with dark spots. Spray completely bushes and fruits. After 3 days, repeat the procedure.
To combat late blight in greenhouses, fumigation is used: a piece of natural animal skin or wool is placed in a container with hot coals, and all windows and doors are tightly closed. The smoke kills the spores of the fungus and prevents them from multiplying further.
The beds are also sprinkled with ashes after planting and a second time at the first ovary.
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies
Garlic infusion
To prepare garlic infusion, take 200 grams of garlic (can be replaced with onions) and insist in a bucket of water for a day. After filtering, spray diseased plants and tomatoes. Spraying is repeated every 2 weeks.
Milk solution or whey
Milk is diluted in water (100 grams per liter) and tomatoes are sprayed. You can replace milk with kefir. Lactic acid bacteria prevent late blight from developing.
You can add a few drops of iodine to milk water. Such spraying will not only help against phytophthora, but will also serve as fertilizer for your tomatoes.
It is also better to repeat every 2 weeks.
You can spray tomatoes with a whey solution (diluted with water 1 to 1) - the effect is the same as from a milk solution. This solution is good to use for prevention all summer. Without waiting for the appearance of the disease.
Salt solution
Popular wisdom also advises spraying tomato bushes with a solution of simple table salt (one glass per bucket of water). This solution protects tomatoes from various diseases, after drying it forms a film on the fruit. After rains it is necessary to repeat spraying.
It is better to use all these methods for the prevention of the disease. If late blight is clearly visible on the bushes, then you will most likely have to use chemistry to fight.
Photo late blight on unripe tomatoes
Treatment of late blight on tomatoes in the open field
Copper - helps well against phytophthora. Preparations with copper are used to combat and prevent the disease. The preparations Hom, Polyhom, Oxyhom are used, they can be diluted directly in cold water in a watering can (according to the instructions).
You can make your own solution. Add a bar of laundry soap for sticking and a bag of blue vitriol to a bucket of water. You can also treat the bushes with infusion of wood ash.
If all folk remedies have been tried and do not help, then you have to use chemistry. There are many different tools in garden stores. The most working are fungicides. Spores of the disease also adapt to different chemicals, so they will have to be alternated so that there is a different composition.
They must be used carefully. Just before fruit ripening. If the tomatoes are already beginning to pour, then chemistry cannot be applied. Poison your crop.
Varieties resistant to late blight
By and large, there are no such varieties. All tomatoes are affected by late blight.
Although in recent years cherry varieties have been bred that can withstand the invasion of phytophthora.
Now there are many new F1 hybrids that manufacturers are positioning as resistant to phytophthora. These are such hybrids as:
- Snowstorm
- Budenovka
- Dragonfly
- Parterre
- pink dwarf
- Raisa
- Caspar
- Kostroma
- Alpha,
- Amur shtamb,
- Valentine,
- Explosion,
- Parodist,
- Marisha,
- Sanka
Early varieties for greenhouses:
- Raspberry sugar plum,
- tangerine,
- golden brush,
- Poznan,
- meal,
- sweet bunch
Photo of Cherry variety in a greenhouse
How to save harvested tomatoes from phytophthora
You need to keep them until warm, but do not cook. The hand usually tolerates such a temperature a little. But it is better to look at the thermometer and add hot water when cooling.
Then the tomatoes are dried and sent to ripen.
Is it possible to eat tomatoes with phytophthora
After such treatment by heating, late blight spores die and these tomatoes are completely edible. Well, you don’t want to eat sick fruits yourself - they are black. Green unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used in winter salads and preparations.
Phytophthora on tomatoes. How to avoid: video
Now you know how to deal with late blight on tomatoes. And it is clear that the best treatment is prevention!
Sincerely, Sofia Guseva.
Some more interesting articles.
Each gardener seeks to protect his crop, in which a lot of time and effort has been invested. Unfortunately, tomatoes are most susceptible to phytophthora - a disease that causes blackening of the fruit. As a result, the yield of vegetables is significantly reduced.
The cause of phytophthora is the infection of the plant with a specific fungus that penetrates into the tissues of tomatoes. Phytophthora on tomatoes appears due to a pathogen that overwintered on the remains of last year's plants. After all, with the onset of heat, the fungus begins its new life cycle.
Infection covers the green aerial part of the plant. Brown spots are visible on top of the leaves, and a white coating appears below. After a while, the leaves and stems completely turn black and die. Large brown or brown spots appear on the fruits, penetrating deep into the pulp. It is worth noting that the disease spreads rapidly throughout the territory: contact with the plant on which the fungus lives is enough.
Conditions for development
Pathogenic fungi are quite tenacious and unpretentious: for a full-fledged life, they have enough moisture. And pathogens are most active in the following conditions:
- prolonged high air humidity;
- temperature fluctuations: the period when dew appears on plants;
- a period of heavy rains.
An increased risk of disease in plants during a cloudy cool period, when dew appears on plants in the morning. And vice versa: when the weather is dry and hot, the spores of the fungus die. That is, the most favorable period for late blight is the second half of summer. However, it is too late to fight against the disease after global infection. It is more productive to take action when the first signs and foci of late blight appear.
Video "Prevention and ways to combat late blight"
This video presents known ways to combat late blight, what activities need to be done before planting, during the cultivation and maturation of plants.
Fighting methods
How to deal with late blight on tomatoes effectively? It is imperative to act quickly: to act against the disease at the first signs. If few plants are affected by phytophthora, then the main task is to eliminate them. To do this, remove the infected parts of the tomatoes, take them out of the territory and burn them. Under no circumstances should such residues be added to the compost!
It is also necessary to spray plantings with systemic preparations, since contact ones may not bring the desired benefit. Effective in the fight against late blight are such systemic fungicides:
- Ridomil - easily wins the fight against infection, penetrates into plant tissues half an hour after application. Effectively protects tomatoes from the outside and from the inside for a long time. Suitable for both treatment and prevention.
- Quadris - used against diseases on tomatoes at the initial stage, including phytophthora. The drug is used outdoors during flowering and fruit formation with a frequency of 14-16 days. In greenhouse conditions, it is necessary to apply in the vegetative phase after 7-10 days. Consistently spraying with quadris can be no more than 2 times. After that, it is worth using another remedy. Quadris is able to prolong fruiting by 2-3 weeks.
It is necessary to treat plants with the above means in the morning or in the evening in calm weather. Be sure to follow the dosage. Late varieties of tomatoes may require additional processing. Since it is in August and September, when the tomatoes ripen, there is a large temperature difference.
Dew appears on plants, which contributes to the spread and vital activity of phytophthora. During this period, the disease can be defeated only by using therapeutic agents. For example, Revus and Thanos, used in the most critical period for tomatoes.
Prevention
Tomatoes are more prone to late blight than other nightshades. The light fluff on the green parts of the plant retains water, which is an ideal condition for the life of the fungus that causes the disease. It is almost impossible to completely avoid late blight, as well as get rid of it. After all, spores of the pathogen fungus can be stored in the ground for a long time and are easily carried by the wind over long distances.
However, you can create conditions to protect your garden as much as possible from late blight on tomatoes and minimize losses from late blight. In order not to ask the question: “How to save tomatoes from late blight?” it is necessary to carry out preventive work aimed at preventing this disease of tomatoes. Effective methods for the prevention of late blight are:
- Seed processing. The spores of the fungus-causative agent are tenacious and persist even in the hairs of the seeds. In 4 out of 5 cases, the cause of the disease is the infected seed. You can process the seeds in a manganese solution: dip the seeds into it for 40 minutes through a gauze bag. Afterwards, rinse and dry. You can also soak the seeds in Fitosporin solution (4 drops of fungicide per 200 ml of water.
- Compliance with crop rotation. You can plant tomatoes in the same place after 3-4 years and in no case in the place of their relatives: cabbage, potatoes, eggplant. You can grow tomatoes in the same place as corn, beets, onions, zucchini.
- Elimination of plant residues. After the completion of the vegetative phase, the remains of all nightshade must be removed from the garden, even without visible signs of the disease.
- Soil preparation. In the open field, it is possible to fight against spores of the pathogen fungus with the help of preparations containing copper and bacterial agents (Fitosporin-M, copper sulphate). In the greenhouse, you need to thoroughly disinfect all inventory and tools.
- Compliance with landing rules. Plantings should not be allowed to thicken, as such beds are poorly ventilated and become breeding grounds for diseases and pests.
- Cultivation of varieties and hybrids resistant to phytophthora. Most often, varieties of tomatoes that ripen early (in the first months of summer) are resistant to late blight.
- Proper plant nutrition. A weak plant is an ideal focus for late blight. Therefore, tomatoes need to be fed periodically.
- Optimal amount of moisture. Tomatoes need drip irrigation. You can also water each bush under the root.
- Treatment of plants with biological agents. Bacterial and copper-containing preparations inhibit the spread of late blight. Therefore, it is worth treating the green part of the plant with copper sulfate before flowering.
Fitosporin-M, which contains living bacterial cells, can protect against late blight on tomatoes. It is they who inhibit the vital activity of phytophthora. Also an effective method for phytophthora on tomatoes is spraying tomatoes with a manganese solution.
Easy to prepare: 1 tbsp. l. dilute liquid potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water. Spray the plants once every 2 weeks. You can also protect plants from phytophthora with the help of folk remedies. For example, spray tomatoes diluted in a bucket of water with a liter of milk and a teaspoon of iodine.
Applicable from phytophthora on tomatoes and garlic tincture: chopped garlic (200 g) should be poured with a glass of warm water and insisted for a day. After the resulting solution, strain, dilute with water (10 l) with the addition of a gram of manganese. Preventive treatments are carried out in dry, calm weather in the morning. The disadvantage of such sprays is the short duration of action. After the rains, they must be repeated.
Phytophthora on tomatoes is "afraid" of ash. Therefore, in order to avoid diseases, before watering newly planted seedlings, at the beginning of fruit set, the aisles of tomatoes are sprinkled with ashes. Measures aimed at the prevention of late blight contribute to the preservation of the crop and prevent the spread of the pathogen fungus. If there are signs of a disease on your site, do not despair and remember: you can win the fight against late blight!
Video " Recipe for combating late blight of tomatoes»
This video presents a natural recipe for combating late blight in tomatoes growing in open ground.
Tomatoes, like all vegetables that grow in our beds, are subject to a variety of diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. One of the most common among them is phytophthora. Although it will cause a lot of problems for tomatoes, it is still possible to fight it and overcome it.
To combat phytophthora, a lot of both folk and chemical agents are used.
Chemicals for treatment and protection
Common chemicals include:
- . 10 tablets of this remedy are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bushes are sprayed with it. The first time they are processed when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.
- Iodine. This is an antimicrobial agent. Because gardeners like to prepare a milky-iodine solution that will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.
- Zelenka. 40 drops of this agent are dissolved in water and tomatoes are sprayed with it.
- Potassium permanganate solution. This tool is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, rinse with water and dry well.
Folk preparations
Effective folk methods include:
- . To prepare it, take 200 g of chopped garlic and dissolve it in a glass of warm water. After 24 hours, the substance is filtered and poured into 10 liters of water, adding a gram of sour-milk potassium there. For treatment, you need to sprinkle tomatoes.
- Milk solution or whey. Any of these dairy products is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 and, starting in July, tomato bushes are regularly sprayed with such a remedy for protection.
- Salt solution. They need to process and protect the still green tomatoes. Such a tool forms a kind of film that will prevent the penetration of infection. To prepare it, a glass of salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Step-by-step processing of tomatoes from phytophthora
As for planting in a greenhouse, tomatoes must be planted, alternating with cucumbers.
The soil in the greenhouse is a must in autumn disinfect with copper sulfate. If the plants have already been infected with phytophthora, then in the greenhouse it is necessary to remove the soil with a thickness of about 5 cm.
It should also be remembered that evaporation occurs in the greenhouse and stale air is present, and this favorably affects the development of bacteria. Therefore, be sure to regularly ventilate the greenhouse to protect plants from disease.
Outdoor care
It is necessary to plant plants not too densely so that there is no rapid infection with phytophthora. But if there is not too much space in the greenhouse, then the tomato should definitely pluck old leaves, because they are a favorite habitat of this disease.
To prevent an outbreak of late blight, it is necessary, first of all, to follow the rules of watering. No need to pour water on the leaves. It is necessary to water the plants under the root.
If it has already happened that the tomatoes could not resist this disease, then processing in order to save them should be carried out, provided that it didn't rain all day. You need to spray tomatoes in the evening or in cloudy but dry weather.
seedling care
Be sure to strengthen the immunity of tomato seedlings before planting them in the ground. For this, the following measures are taken:
- before planting, the plants are treated 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture;
- after half a month arceridoma;
- after another half a month with foundationazole;
- after that, the last 2 remedies are alternated.
The best remedy for late blight
Very effective in the fight against phytophthora are:
- Ridomil gold. It protects the tomatoes from the outside and prevents the penetration of fungi into the inside of the tissues. To prepare this solution, you need to take 10 grams of the product and dilute it in 4 liters of water. They begin to process plants during the growing season, and then repeat every half a month.
- . This drug has many advantages, as it is resistant to flushing and has a healing effect by killing fungi. For its preparation, take 12 g per 10 liters. Spraying is carried out in the same way as Ramidol gold.
- . It is also resistant to precipitation and has a healing effect. 6 ml is diluted in 5 liters of water and the plants are sprayed starting from the growing season. Processing is carried out 3 times every 2 weeks.
How is prevention carried out in the greenhouse
Of course, as in the case of other diseases, it is easiest to carry out prevention than to endlessly deal with late blight.
The main preventive measures include the following:
- Don't allow neighbors tomatoes with potatoes.
- You should not plant these vegetables on the same place for several years in a row.
- Also, do not plant tomatoes in the place where eggplants, peppers and potatoes grew.
- Do not water tomatoes too often and abundantly.
- Definitely necessary remove lower leaves tomato so that they touch the ground as little as possible.
- Pull out weeds as they retain moisture.
- Do not oversaturate the soil with nitrogen fertilizers.
- When the soil retains moisture for a very long time, it is imperative to weed.
- After harvesting, do not leave the tops to winter in the garden, it must be burned.
How the disease manifests itself
Finding signs of phytophthora on tomatoes is not at all difficult:
- spots appear on the underside, after which leaves turn brown and fall;
- the shoots of the plant and its fruits also turn black;
- at first the vegetables become hard, and then softer and softer until they begin to rot. So the whole fetus may be lost.
When to treat for the first time
The first time tomatoes are processed 1 or 2 days before planting seedlings in open ground.
After planting, the plants are sprayed again after 12 days.
Is it possible to take seeds from diseased tomatoes
Studies have shown that oospores die in 50-degree heat, so if you hold the seeds about 2 hours at this temperature, they will be disinfected.
Remember that for planting it is better to use seeds that have been collected about 3 years ago. During this period, all viruses will die, and you will receive pure material.
Conditions for the development of the disease
Tomatoes are easily infected with late blight from potatoes, and there are many conditions for the development of this disease.
The most common of them include:
- pouring rains that last about 3 days;
- sudden changes in temperature day and night with a difference of 8 to 12 degrees;
- dew that appears from these temperature changes;
- fog;
- lack of sunlight and heat;
- dense plantings;
- excess nitrogen.
Phytophthora does not develop in dry weather.
How to cultivate the land after the disease
In the spring, before planting, be sure to cultivate the land from phytophthora. For this they take 3% copper sulfate and water them on the ground.
After that, the soil should be well loosened. To do this, use a special device that will help mix the top cover with a thickness of 25 cm. In this, Tornado will be one of the best helpers. It has an unusual shape and is very effective and easy to use.
And the final step is watering the soil phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. means are dissolved in 10 l of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m.
Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.
Is it possible to eat diseased fruits
If you roll affected tomatoes in jars, they can deteriorate. Do not be afraid to eat tomatoes affected by late blight. The disease is not transmitted to humans. However, black spots spoil the appearance of tomatoes, and it is very unpleasant to eat them.
As for conservation, it is not recommended to close these tomatoes.
Their acidity may increase, and a variety of microorganisms will multiply, because of which the taste of tomatoes will be completely spoiled.
Varieties resistant to infection
Resistant varieties before late blight include: Gift of a brother, De-Barao, Vilina, Roton.
As you can see, phytophthora is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the tool you like, and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.
